n 

HI 



H 




I 



Class _, 
Bwk-o. 






f^£^>4 




A SUMMER JAUNT 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD: 



A RECORD OF AX EXCURSION MADE TO 
AND THROUGH EUROPE, 



BY THE TOURJEE EDUCATIONAL PARTY OF 1878. 



fa* 



By LUTHER L. HOLDER. 



BOSTON: 

PUBLISHED BY LEE & SHEPARD. 
1879. 



JVo. 33lJ 
c, 1879. # y 



<lr 



By LEE AND SHEPAKD. 
1879. 



W v 1 



Stereotyped and printed by Wright & Potter Printing Co., 79 Milk St., Boston, 



TO THE MEMBERS 



Tourjee Excursion Party op 1878, 

WHOSE GENIAL COMPANIONSHIP ENHANCED THE PLEASURES 

OF A DELIOHFUL \OUND OF EUROPEAN TRAVEL, 

A 

£Jjts Folumc 

IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 



PREFACE. 



In submitting the accompanying volume to the members 
of the Tourjee Excursion Party of 1878, and to the public, 
the author and compiler feels that some apology for its late 
appearance is called for. It was designed that it should 
appear soon after the party returned home, but the execu- 
tion of this plan was prevented by unavoidable circumstances. 
Duties of an engrossing nature greatly delayed the beginning 
of the work of preparation, and when this was at length 
entered upon, it had to be carried forward amid such con- 
tinued cares and responsibilities, as inevitably surround a 
busy journalist. Thus the labor has been performed hur- 
riedly, notwithstanding the months that have elapsed since 
it should have been undertaken ; and the writer finds that 
while the ink from his pen is yet undried, he is upon the eve 
of a second "Summer Jaunt Through the Old World," under 
the same wise leadership that made the first such a constant 
source of pleasure and profit. In a great measure, then, 
the compilation of these records has been not only in 
retrospection of happy experiences, but, in some degree, 
anticipatory of pleasures yet to come. 

Very valuable assistance has been given by several mem- 
bers of the party, who were connected with divisions other 
than the one of which "the writer was a member ; especially 
by Mr. A. F. Lewis, of Fryeburg, Me., who has given in 



VI PREFACE. 

Chapters X., XI., XII., and XIII., an interesting account 
of the travels of the First, or "Italian" Division. Mr. 
E. Emory Johnson, of Moodus, Conn., in behalf of the 
Second Division ; Mr. Frank Bolles, of Washington, D. C, 
representing the Third Division ; and Mr. O. B. Bruce, of 
Binghamton, N. Y., the Fourth Division, have likewise ren- 
dered kindly aid by furnishing notes of travel, which, from 
necessity, inasmuch as the book has grown into large pro- 
portions, have been considerably abridged in Chapters XIV., 
XV., and XVI. Mr. Bruce, who was early made familiar 
with Dr. Tourjee's plans and purposes in connection with 
the excursion, has also prepared, by request, the introduction 
to the work. 

The volume is intended as a pleasant souvenir of a de- 
lightful round of European travel, in which nearly three 
hundred Americans — a larger excursion party than ever 
before went from our shores — had, at least in part, a 
common experience. The writer trusts, that in spite of any 
imperfections hasty work may have caused, this purpose 
will be fully met. While in pursuance of the chief plan to 
present a faithful history of that excursion, much subject- 
matter of little interest to others may have been included in 
its pages ; he trusts, nevertheless, that the book may prove 
a source of much information to the general reader, and, as 
such, form, in some measure, an instructive and agreeable 
hand-book of travel. 
Boston, 1879. 



CONTENTS 



Dedication, Page iii 

Preface, " r 

Contents, " vii 

Illustrations, " xiii 

Introduction, " xv 



CHAPTER I. 
on the ocean. 
Leaving New York — The steamer " Devonia" and its Comforts — The 
Anchor Fleet — First Night on the Ocean — Strange Sounds and 
Sensations — Sabbath at Sea -^ Religious Services — Means of 
Amusement — " Chalking" — " Bell Time" at Sea — A Series of Re- 
markable Manifestos — Musical and Intellectual Entertainments 

— The dreaded " Banks " — The " Glorious Fourth " in Mid-Ocean 

— A Night Incident — A Strange Fleet — The Range of Vision 
on the Ocean — A Burial at Sea — Land Ho ! — Beauty of the Irish 
and Scottish Coasts — The Giant's Causeway — Evening Sail up 
the Charming Frith of Clyde, 7 

CHAPTER II. 

SCOTLAND. 

An Early Visit to Glasgow — St. George's Square, the Cathedral, 

&c. — A Charming Excursion through Loch Lomond, Loch 

Katrine, and the Trosachs — The Land of Rob Roy — The 

Scenes of Scott's " Lady of the Lake " — Stirling and its Ancient 



Vlll CONTENTS. 

Castle — Edinburgh and its Beautiful Situation — Its Monu- 
ments and Historic Sites — Calton Hill — Holyrood Palace, and 
its Reminiscences of Mary Queen of Scots — A Walk through 
Old Edinburgh — The Castle and its Sights — The Queen's 
Drive — The University and its School of Music — A Memorial 
to Canine Fidelity — Reception by the Sabbath-School Teach- 
ers' Union — Interesting Addresses — The Journey to Melrose — 
Melrose Abbey — Abbotsford and its Relics, ... 47 

CHAPTER III. 

ENGLAND. 
Entering England — By Special Train to London — The Midland 
Railway and the Midland Country — European Railways and 
their Peculiarities — The Approach to the Metropolis — The 
Midland Grand Hotel — Seeing London — The Metropolis and 
its Immensity — How London has Overgrown its Ancient 
Limits — The Busiest Spot in the Whole World — Means of 
Travel in the Great City — The Metropolitan Railway and the 
Hansom Cabs — The Houses of Parliament and their Adornment 
— Westminster Hall — Westminster Abbey — Whitehall — Char- 
ing Cross — Trafalgar Square and its Monuments — The National 
Gallery — The Strand — Temple Bar — The Temple, &c, . 103 

CHAPTER IV. 

ENGLAND CONTINUED. 

More about London — St. Paul's and its Sights — The Post-Office 

— The Tower of London — Its Mournful History and its Won- 
ders — The Crown Jewels — Fifteen Million Dollars' Worth of 
Gewgaws — The British Museum and its Vast Collections — The 
South Kensington Museum — A Magnificent Art-School — The 
Albert Memorial — The Royal Albert Hall and an Organ Concert 
therein — Parks and Palaces — The Thames Embankments — Cle- 
opatra's Needle — Sights on the Thames — The Docks and the 
Shipping — The Bank of England and the Royal Exchange — 
Band of Hope Fete at the Crystal Palace — Singing by Ten 
Thousand Children — A Glimpse of Royalty — Spurgeon and his 
Work, &c, 159 

CHAPTER V. 

FRANCE. 

Leaving London for Paris — The Route via Newhaven and Dieppe 

— Crossing the English Channel — A Famous French Watering- 
Place — The Railway Ride through Normandy — Rouen — The 



CONTENTS. IX 

Valley of the Seine — Entering Paris — The Hotel Bedford — 
The Boulevards — The Cafes — The Fortifications — The Sew- 
ers — How the Paris Streets are Cleaned — The Champs Ely sees 
— The Place de la Concorde and its History — The Obelisk of 
Luxor — The Arc "cle Triomphe — The Bois de Boulogne — 
The Church of the Madeleine — The Church of Notre Dame — 
Ancient Lutetia — The Palais de Justice and Sainte Chapelle — 
The Morgue — The Hotel de Cluny — The Pantheon, &c, 203 

CHAPTER VI. 

FRANCE CONTINUED. 
The Louvre and its Treasures — The Arc de Triomphe du Car- 
rousel — M. Giffard's Captive Balloon — The Palais Royal — 
The Hotel des Invalides, and the Tomb of Napoleon — The 
Vendome Column — The Column of July — The Bibliotheqae 
Nationale — The Grand Opera and the Opera Comique — The 
Conservatoire de Musique — The Cemetery of Pcre-la-Chaise — 
The Park of the Buttes Chaumont — The Markets — A Peep at 
the Exposition Universelle — The Exhibition Buildings and the 
Arrangement of the Grounds — General Characteristics of the 
Display — Two National Concerts — An Excursion to St. Cloud, 
Versailles, and Sevres — The Palace of Versailles and its Art 
Galleries — A Lunch with Mr. Thomas Cook — Leaving Paris — 
The Railway Journey to Geneva, 238 

CHAPTER VII. 

SWITZERLAND. 
Entering the Country of Lakes and Mountains — Geneva and its 
Charming Situation — Its Interesting Features — An Organ 
Concert at the Cathedral — Lake Leman — Lausanne — The 
Castle of Chillon — Fribourg — Its Famous Orgau and a Con- 
cert thereon — Bern — Another Organ Concert — Market Day 
and the Peasantry — Thun and its Beautiful Lake — The Bodeli 
Railway — Interlaken — The Jungfrau — Lauterbrunuen and 
the Fall of the Staubbach — Grindelwald and its Glaciers — A 
New Way to Repulse Clamorous Guides— An Effectual Dis- 
charge of "Greek Fire" — The Alpine Horn — The Lake 01 
Brienz and the Falls of the Geissbach — Swiss Music —The 
Brunig Pass — An Ascent of the Rigi — Suuset and Sunrise as 
seen from the Summit — Excursion on the Lake of the Four 
Cantons — William Tell — Lucerne and its Quaint Bridges — 
More Organ Music — The Inevitable " Storm-piece V — Zurich — 
Schaff hausen and the Falls of the Rhine, . . . . . 272 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER VIII. 
GERMANY. 

Leaving Switzerland — Basel and its Clocks — Strassburg and its 
Famous Cathedral — Marks of the Siege of 1870 — The Storks 
and the Geese — The Astronomical Clock — Climbing the 
Cathedral Tower in a Thunder-storm — Baden-Baden and its 
Beautiful Surroundings — The Black Forest — Heidelberg — 
Its University and Ruined. Castle — The Great Tun— The 
Rich City of Frankfort — Wiesbaden and its Attractions — 
The Storied Rhine — Its Towns and Vineyards — Its Castles 
and their Romantic Legends — The Bromserburg — The Mouse 
Tower — The Devil's Ladder — The Pfaizgrafenstein — The 
Lurleiberg — The "Cat" and the "Mouse" — "The Brothers" — 
Roland and Hildegunde — The Drachenfels — Cologne — Its 
Great Cathedral — The Church of the Eleven Thousand Virgins 
and its Relics — Other Objects of Interest in Cologne, . 322 

CHAPTER IX. 

BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 

From Cologne to Brussels — Aix-la-Chapelle — Liege — Louvain — 

Belgium's Capital — The Hotel de Ville and the Guild Halls — 

The Galerie St. Hubert — The Cathedral of Ste. Gudule — The 

Park and the Neighboring Palaces — The Museum of Paintings 

— The Wiertz Museum — Monuments, Statues, and Fountains — 
The Conservatoire de Musique — The Lace Manufactories — 
The Battle-field of Waterloo — Mechlin — Antwerp in Gala 
Attire — The Cathedral and its Art Treasures — Quentin Mat- 
sys's Well — The Church of St. Jacques — Celebrated Works of 
Art — Rubens and his Pictures — A Quaint Church Exhibition 

— The Plantiu Museum — The Zuid-Bcveland of Holland — 
A Glimpse of the Land of Dikes and Ditches — Crossing the 
North Sea — Back again in London, 373 

CHAPTER X. 
THE FIRST SECTION — ITALY. 
The Journey from London to the Continent, and through Belgium, 
Germany, and Switzerland — Mont Cenis Tunnel — Milan — 
The Cathedral — Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" — Verona 

— Romeo and Juliet — The Capulet Mansion — Juliet's Tomb 

— Venice — The Gondoliers — Venetian Painters — St. Mark's 
Church — The Doge's Palace — The Bridge of Sighs — The 
Piazza of St. Mark's — The Doves of Venice — Reception of 
King Humbert and Queen Margherita — Carnival of Venice — 



CONTENTS. XI 

Florence — Its Palaces and Churches — The Baptistry — The 
Cathedral — Sante Croce — Dante — The Medicean Chapel — 
The Pitti Palace — The Uffizzi Gallery — The Venus de Medici 

— The Group of Niobe — American Artists — The . Powers 
Family — The Protestant Cemetery, 401 

CHAPTER XI. 

THE FIRST SECTION. — ITALY CONTINUED. 

Rome — St. Peter's — The Arch of Constantine — The Arch of Titus 

— The Colosseum — The Ancient Gladiatorial Contests — The 
Capitol — The Forum — The Pantheon — The Baths of Cara- 
calla — The Appian Way — The Tomb of Cecilia Metella — The 
Footsteps of St. Paul — The Mamertine Prison — St. Paul's 
"Hired House" —The Basilica of St. Paul's Beyond the Walls 

— The Holy Staircase — The Vatican and its Treasures — The 
Sistine Chapel — Raphael's " Transfiguration " — The Apollo 
Belvidere — The Laocoon — The Catacombs — A Visit to the 
Pope — The Church of St. Clement — Recent Excavations — 
The Roman Aqueducts — The Column of Trajan — The Castle 
of St. Angelo — Beatrice Cenci — Presentation to Siguor Barat- 
toni, 446 

CHAPTER XII. 

THE FIRST DIVISION. — ITALY CONTINUED. 
Naples — Its Matchless Bay — The Museum — Celebrated Paint- 
ings and Statuary — "The Roman Charity" — Pompeii, the 
Buried City — A Perfect Picture of Roman Life Eighteen 
Centuries Ago — Vesuvius — Ascent of the Cone — Descent into 
the Crater — The View from the Summit of Vesuvius — Italian 
Guides and Beggars — Pisa — The Leaning Tower — The 
Cathedral — The Campo Santo — The Baptistry — " Genoa, 
the Superb" — Its Palaces and Churches — A Moonlight Sail 
on the Mediterranean — Turin — An Exciting Incident — En- 
counter of a Brave American Girl with Italian Pickpockets, 509 

CHAPTER XIII. 
THE FIRST DIVISION. — THROUGH FRANCE, ENGLAND, ETC. 
From Turin to Paris — London Again — Oxford and its Colleges — 
The Students — The Martyr's Memorial — Wesley and Wickliffe 

— The Bodleian Library — Stratford-on-Avou — Shakespeare's 
Birthplace — Interesting Relics — Anne Hathaway's Cottage — 
To Ireland, via Birmingham and Holyhead — Dublin and its 
Sights — Irish Jaunting-Cars — The Ocean Voyage Homeward 

— Concluding Words, 554 



Xll CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIV. 
THE SECOND DIVISION. 
Notes of the Tour through Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and 
France — Interesting Incident at Zurich — Congratulatory Reso- 
tions Passed at Paris, 574 

CHAPTER XV. 
THE THIRD DIVISION. 

Notes of the Journey from London over the Continent, and hack 
to Eugland — Interesting Celebrations at Brussels — Gil- 
more's Band at Cologne — Saluting the Sirens of the Rhine — 
Glorious Scenes on the Rigi, &c, 584 

CHAPTER XVI. 

THE FOURTH DIVISION. 

Notes of the Continental Journey — Amusing Incidents — Grand 
Illumination by the Students at Heidelberg — Two Days on the 
Rhine — Visits to Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein — The Return 
to England, &c, 594 

CHAPTER XVII. 
THE " CIRCASSIA " PARTY. 
The Advance Guard of the American Invaders — The Tour through. 
Scotland, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and France — An- 
other Section Visits Italy, 606 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

HOMEWARD BOUND. 
Once More in London — Supplementary Tours by Members of the 
Party — Notes of a Visit to Sorrento and the Blue Grotto of 
Capri, and of a Tour of Lakes Como and Lugano — A Pilgrimage 
to the Holy Land — Setting Sail for Home — The "Rolling 
Deep" — Entertainments on Shipboard — Benefit of the Ship- 
wrecked Mariners' Society — Congratulatory Resolutions — 
Arrival at New York — The Custoni-House Officers — Dr. Tour- 
jeVs Christmas Greeting, 609 



ArncNDix, Page 633 

Index, "643 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



The Scott Memorial, Edinburgh 

Edinburgh Castle, 

Westminster Abbey, 

Henry Seventh's Chapel, Westminster Abbey, . 

Tower of London, 

Joan of Arc's Tower, Rouen, 

Place de la Concorde, . . . . 

Church of the Madeleine, . 

Sainte Chapelle, Paris 

Colonnade of the Louvre, 

Dome of the Hotel des Invalides, ...... 

Palace of the Luxembourg, 

The River Seine in Paris 

The Park and Palace of Versailles, 

Lausanne and the Savoy Alps 

Grindelwald 

The Tell Chapel near Fluelen, . . . . . 

Lucerne and Mont Pilatus, . 

A Stork's Nest in Strassburg, * 

View of Strassburg from near Erwin of Steinbach's 

Monument, 

Heidelberg and the Old Castle, 

Frankfort-on-tiie-Main, 

Caub and the Pfalzgrafenstein 

The Hotel de Ville, Brussels, ....... 

A Row of Holland Giants, 

The Cathedral of Milan . 

Palace of the Doges at Venice, 

The Arena of the Colosseum, 

The Roman Forum, 

Roman Temple of Hercules, called the Temple of the 

Sybil 

The Herculaneum Gate, Pompeii, as it was, .... 
Ehrenbreitstein, 



Facing page 66 
79 
142 
150 
168 
215 
224 
' 230 
234 
240 
244 
255 
260 
266 
282 
299 
309 
315 



344 
348 
358 
377 
397 
411 
427 
456 
463 

491 
517 
602 



INTRODUCTION. 



Year after year, many toiling teachers, ministers, musi- 
cians, and brain- workers in other vocations have turned the 
wistful eye across the Atlantic to that happy tramping- 
ground for tourists — Europe ; inwardly resolving to go some 
day, when slender purse and brief vacation would permit. 
Such, though lost to sight, were not forgotten. Dr. Eben 
Tourjee, in his wide and intimate acquaintance with these 
classes of toilers, had long been aware of the yearnings 
that tongues fain would utter, and wisely estimated the 
influences that a properly directed tour could effect, 
if brought within the limited means of such deserving 
laborers. 

Having clearly defined in his own mind the nature, scope, 
and feasibility of such a project, with him, to think was to 
act ; so accordingly, in 1876, he announced it to some 
friends and others for critical opinions. So well digested 
and practically adapted were his plans to all the wants and 
capabilities of such a party, that few suggestions could be 
given. 

It is no easy task to arrange the details of a tour which, 
while it gives the teacher ample opportunity to personally 
examine the pedagogics of the lower, middle, and higher 
school systems of Europe, provides also suitable occasions 
and special facilities for those particularly interested in 
music, art, or science, by gaining access to galleries and 
collections of sculpture, painting, architecture, antiquities, 
&c, by visitation, of various libraries, and by arranging a 



XVI INTRODUCTION. 

series of grand concerts along the tour, at the same time 
omitting no places of natural, national, or historic interest. 
To a fertile, energetic, and comprehensive mind expe- 
dients are plenty, means are ready, circumstances are 
utilized ; thus came before the world the largest "Euro- 
pean excursion " that had ever left our shores — 

The Tourjee Musical and Educational Party. 

That most illustrious of caliphs, Haroun-al-Raschid, not 
content to be shut up in his palace, where he heard only 
fawning sj'cophancy, saw only the glitterings of Oriental 
splendor, knew only what was communicated to him through 
interested and falsely colored mediums, accustomed himself 
to go about the streets of Bagdad disguised, that he might 
see with his own ej^es and hear with his own ears. Thus 
he made himself acquainted with the cause and effect of 
various circumstances, learned the condition of his subjects, 
and often, heard those salutary truths which never had 
reached his ears through the walls of his palace or from the 
courtiers and parasites surrounding him. 

To no class of brain-workers is the foregoing allusion 
more applicable than to the teacher, who, from the nature 
of his calling, surroundings, and influences, is apt to be 
content to remain in his school-room, hearing at times only 
the "damning of faint praise," seeing only the day's rou- 
tine done, knowing only the vague semblance of knowledge 
often conve3 T ed through distorted views. Let such once go 
abroad, beyond his own horizon, to see with his own eyes 
and to hear with his own ears, — how great the change ! At 
once his acquaintance with men and things widens, his views 
broaden, his intellect expands, his sympathies deepen, his 
aspirations kindle, his tastes become elevated, his impres- 
sions become real and vivid ; thus, amid recreation, enjoy- 



INTRODUCTION. XV11 

merit, and improvement, he becomes a new being, now feel- 
ing that a beneficent Creator has given him 

" A world made so various that the mind 
Of desultory man, studious of change, 
And pleased with novelty, might be indulged." 

Though we read volumes about Europe, yet, in so doing, 
we fail to enjoy the peculiar advantages of a tour ; especially 
is this true of the teacher, minister, artist, or musician. 
Nearly every periodical of the da} T , directly or indirectly, 
suggests the value and desirability of a personal contact and 
acquaintance with the distinctive social, religious, aesthetic, 
political, and physical features of Europe, — to move among 
its peoples, to study its institutions, to visit its historic 
places, and compare all with our own land. All know the 
value of observation, and he who can take in the great 
world without, will have a world within. 

The retrospect of our recent tour is fertile in pleasant 
reminiscences. It vividly recalls our first meeting on ship- 
board, where we then were, in fact, a party of strangers, 
one to another, gathered from all sections of the Union and 
from the Dominion of Canada. We hear again the voice 
of friendly greeting, we feel the cordial shake of the hand, 
we mingle once more in impressive devotions, in inspiring 
music, in enlivening games and exercises that whiled the 
hours away as we "rolled the billows o'er." Memory 
dwells with joy upon generous friendships there formed ; it 
lingers with pleasing interest upon forms and features now 
absent in bod} T , but in the spirit ever present. These asso- 
ciations, with the special conditions and circumstances of 
our after journey, the glowing and cordial enthusiasm of 
our part}', the enriching acquisitions, both in views and 
experiences, adorn our retrospect with a charming interest, 



XV111 INTRODUCTION. 

wherein are "reason mixed with pleasure, and wisdom 
blent with mirth." 

From a general and intimate acquaintance with the party, 
and from frequently expressed sentiments of many mem 
bers, we are assured that the grand aim and object of Dr. 
Tourjee have been attained. Whatever the penchant of any 
member, the comprehensive execution of all details brought 
each his own desire, whether it was in scenes of beauty, 
romance, history, or tradition; whether in art — music, 
painting, sculpture, ceramics, or architecture ; in the relics 
of antiqmt}^, or the wonders of mediaeval or modern times ; 
in observing civil, social, religious, or educational forms 
and sj'stems, — all were provided, and all enjoyed. The 
results of such personal visitation, observation, contact, 
and experiences imbued our members with new, curious, 
and enduring views, feelings, aims, and aspirations that will 
generate a life-force in all future character, leading each to 
a higher, nobler appreciation of God's work and dealings 
among the nations of the earth ; leading the heart more 
truty to adore its Creator, and with Job to exclaim in its 
adoration, "I have heard of thee by the hearing of the 
ear : but now mine eye seeth thee." 

While the perusal of this book will be interesting to all 

readers, it will be peculiarly and interestingly suggestive to 

members of the Tourjee Party, leading many to live over 

again the scenes and experiences in which each bore a 

prominent part. May such reminiscences be fraught with a 

pleasure only to increase with recurring reference to the 

recorded Tour of the Tourjee Musical and Educational 

Party ! 

" Still o'er these scenes may memory wake, 
And fondly brood with miser care : 
May time the impression deeper make, 
As streams their channels deeper wear." 



A SUMMEE JAUNT THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 



CHAPTEE I. 

ON THE OCEAN. 

Leaving New York — The steamer "Devonia"'and its Comforts — The 
Anchor Fleet — First Night on the Ocean — Strange Sounds and 
Sensations — Sabbath at Sea — Religious Services — Means of 
Amusement — "Chalking"— " Bell Time" at Sea — A Series of Re- 
markable Manifestos — Musical and Intellectual Entertainments 

— The dreaded "Banks" — The Glorious Fourth in Mid-Ocean 

— A Night Incident — A Strange Fleet — The Range of Vision 
on the Ocean — A Burial at Sea — Land Ho ! — Beauty of the Irish 
and Scottish Coasts — The Giant's Causeway — Evening Sail up 
the Charming Frith of Clyde. 

The 29th of June, 1878, was a marked day in the 
calendar, at least, for nearly two hundred and fifty 
Americans, who had united, under Dr. Eben Tourjee's 
leadership, for a friendly invasion of the Old World. 
It was the date of their departure from New York in 
the good steamship "Devonia," of the Anchor Line, and 
of the beginning of a season of novel and most profit- 
able experiences. The term " Americans " is applied 
in a general, or European sense, inasmuch as our. party 
included representatives of various parts of the Domin- 
ion of Canada, as well as of every section of the United 



2 A SUMMER JAUNT 

States. Some there were, doubtless, who sniffed the 
salt breezes of old ocean, and looked upon its stupen- 
dous craft, for the first time, when they threaded their 
way through the crowded streets of the metropolis, 
clown to the spacious pier, where the steamer was in 
waiting to receive them. It was an intensely warm 
day, and this early sniff was less of the broad, cool sea 
than of the far from over-clean waters which wash the 
western line of docks of the great city. The party 
included many an old traveller, who went to the dock, 
and on board the steamer, in an easy, business-like 
way, as if crossing the wide ocean were a common sort 
of thing to do, and required no extraordinary amount 
of preparation or excitement. And yet such an under- 
taking, where a great ship goes out upon the tempest- 
uous waves, laden with hundreds of precious lives, 
which are henceforth, for a season at least, to be diver- 
gent from home, kindred, and native land, is not to be 
looked upon carelessly or lightly ; nor is it treated 
flippantly by any sensible or thoughtful person, how- 
ever familiar with the ways of travelling he may have 
become. Modern appliances, and the utmost care and 
watchfulness on the part of those having life and prop- 
erty in their keeping, tend to make the ocean transit as 
safe as such things can be made, but thoughts of the 
dear ones left behind, as well as of personal welfare, 
naturally crowd upon the mind of the voyager. 

On the pier, and on the decks of the steamer, all is 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 6 

bustle and activity. The sailors go about their duties 
in a quiet, systematic way, stowing away the cargo and 
making other preparations for the departure. Passen- 
gers begin to crowd the deck, with troops of friends who 
have come to bid them adieu ; and there is a constant 
swarm of incomers and outgoers at the gang-plank, 
which is gradually assuming a more acute angle under 
the influence of the rising tide. No company of pleas- 
ure-seekers is complete without a bridal party. We 
have several ; and one of them, from the neighboring 
city of Brooklyn, is attended to the steamer by a large 
retinue of friends, whose floral tributes remain a fra- 
grant source of delight in the saloon for days after. 
But the appointed hour of sailing is at hand. Many 
last farewells have been said, and the friends who wish 
they too were booked for the voyage, have gained ad- 
vantageous places at the end of the pier, to watch the 
great ship as it glides out into the stream. Every pas- 
senger is on deck, and moving about amid the throngs 
of people and the sprawling deck-chairs is laborious. 
There is a slight delay for a mail-bag, or something or 
other, and a few minutes seem an hour. At length all 
is in readiness, the gang-plank is thrown off, the gates 
in the bulwarks are closed, to be opened the next time 
three thousand miles away, and the hawsers are hauled 
in. The captain and the pilot have taken their places 
on the bridge, the other officers are in their places at 
various points on the ship, the engineer's bell is struck, 



4 A SUMMER JAUNT 

and the great engines down in the depths of the vessel, 
are responsively imbued with life. There is an agita- 
tion of the water at the stern of the ship, almost im- 
perceptibly the giant craft begins to glide away from 
the pier, and soon the buildings, ships, and crowds of 
friends on shore, recede in the view. 

In the middle of a bright, sunny, summer afternoon, 
we course almost noiselessly from the mouth of the 
North River, out across New York Bay, past the docks 
and the forest of masts which fringe the great city, 
past the Battery and the other landmarks of lower 
New York, the basins and great warehouses of Brook- 
lyn, the frowning forts, and the pleasant green slopes 
of the Staten Island and Long Island shores, to the 
Narrows. We are now beyond the track of the ferry- 
boats, and the sea craft is mostly of the larger sort. 
Two or three other ocean-bound steamers are ahead 
of us, or follow in our wake, and these, although pur- 
suing a common course, are obliterated from all further 
view by the coming night. After passing through the 
Narrows, and out into the Lower Bay, the shores quick- 
ly recede, but a near-at-hand view is caught of Sandy 
Hook on one side, and Coney Island on the other, to- 
gether with a far-away glance of Long Branch. The 
Jersey Highlands, and the Long Island hills, loom up 
in the distance ; but the pilot has left us, bearing ashore 
many belated missives to friends left behind, and we 
are now out upon the broad ocean. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 

As outward things fade into distance and dimness, 
the passengers begin to look about them, and strike 
up an acquaintance with their surroundings — the ship 
and their companions. The "Devonia" belongs to the 
largest class of sea-going steamers, and in addition to 
all the best approved appliances for strength, safety, 
and comfort, contains one feature, at least, not com- 
mon to ocean steamships. This is the music-room, 
an apartment which occupies a deck-house over the 
centre of the main saloon. Between the two apart- 
ments is an open space, and this contains growing 
plants and singing-birds. Within the music-room 
were a Collard & Collard pianoforte and a Mason & 
Hamlin organ, which belong to the vessel, a second 
organ generously placed on board by Mason & Ham- 
lin, in compliment to Dr. Tourjee, and a well-filled 
library. Several of the steamers of the Anchor Line 
are provided with music-rooms of this description, 
and all ocean travellers who have experienced their 
comforts, will be inclined to look upon a steamer not 
provided with such a delightful place of resort as 
being radically defective. It is accessible in all 
weathers, and therefore becomes a desirable loumrins:- 
place at times when comfort on the open deck is out 
of the question. The "Devonia" is of 4,268 tons bur- 
den, and being 420 feet in length, her capacious decks 
afford ample space for promenading and exercise. 
The vessel is admirably arranged throughout, and sol- 



b A SUMMER JAUNT 

idity and strength are everywhere observable. These 
are prime considerations in an ocean steamer, and far 
more important than fancy adornments and gilding. 
Handsome and elaborate decorations are not wanting, 
however, and the saloons are found to be fitted up 
with great elegance and richness. The appliances for 
steering the vessel, and for communicating between 
the bridge and the engine-room, and with the wheel- 
house, arc very complete ; and it is interesting to 
observe how easily and readily the great ship is man- 
aged. A special novelty is the mode of displaying 
the port and starboard lights. On the forward part 
of the ship are two prominent structures, closely 
resembling diminutive light-houses, which they are in 
reality. They are built of iron plates, riveted to the 
deck of the vessel, and stand a dozen feet high or 
more. In the interior of these lamps are suspended. 
The Anchor fleet comprises some thirty steamships, 
five of which are in the Glasgow service, six in the 
London service, twelve in the Mediterranean service, 
and the rest in the Indian service. The commodore 
of this extensive fleet is, or was at the time of our 
excursion, Captain James Craig, of the "Devonia." 
Since the summer of 1878, Captain Craig has retired 
from active service. All persons who have crossed 
the ocean with Captain Craig will surely remember 
him as a kind-hearted, courteous, and genial gentle- 
man, as well as a thorough officer. Among the others 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. i 

who were connected with the administration of the 
"Devonia," and who will-be remembered by our party 
with kindly feelings, are First Officer Allan, Second 
Officer Craig, Third Officer Millar, Fourth Officer 
Camp.bell, First Engineer dimming, Purser Waken- 
shaw, Surgeon Scott, the Head Steward, Mr. Nag- 
smith, and the Stewardess, Miss Cameron. 

If the members of our party had reason to bestow 
favor and approbation upon the ship and her officers, 
they found equally as good cause to be satisfied with 
themselves and each other. The passenger list was 
made up of teachers, clergymen, editors, lawyers, 
physicians, business men, students, and others, with 
the gentler sex largely preponderating in both the first 
and last classifications. As soon as the newness of 
the voyage wore off, and everybody had become 
fairly settled in his or her quarters, the company was 
found to be very genial and companionable. The 
ocean voyager, either male or female, quickly learns 
that there are many things to be stowed away in the 
trunks which are committed to that mysterious region 
designated "below," besides fashionable dresses and 
the gewgaws which go to make up stylish apparel on 
shore. Ill-natured reserve and conventionality are as 
much out of place and as difficult to manage at sea, as 
a ball-room coiffure or a flowing train. The ocean is 
a great leveller, and the sooner the voyager conforms 
to his surroundings, the happier he will make himself 



8 A SUMMER JAUNT 

and those with whom he is necessarily brought in 
contact. A stock of good-nature, and a willingness 
to contribute to the convenience, comfort, and amuse- 
ment of others as well as to his own, will go far 
towards ameliorating many of the little hardships and 
asperities of ocean life. Nothing tries human nature 
more than travelling. Eemoved from the conven- 
tional forms of the society in which he or she is 
accustomed to move, and thrust among strangers, 
with a vague sense that one's rights must be stood up 
for, if not positively fought for, an individual is 
likely to bring out selfish traits which drawing-room 
friends have never suspected to exist beneath the 
artificial smoothness of conventional propriety. Peo- 
ple who give up the best they have with cheerful 
resignation, at home and amid friends, will not 
scruple to clear the plates of the last delicacy on 
steamers or at hotels ; or to monopolize an extra 
seat or two in the railway carriage, when the rights 
and convenience of strangers may be at stake. But 
what a smoothing down of rough places ensues when 
a contrary spirit is shown ! Courtesy and politeness 
to strangers, with a due regard for the feelings and 
wants of others, are surer indications of true gen- 
tility than the" mere outward varnish of fashionable 
society, or even the conventional customs of home 
life, where possibly selfish characteristics may yet 
exist, though hidden from the ordinary view by the 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. U 

same mean instincts which cause them to be so readily 
exhibited abroad. In our party, to its credit, indi- 
vidually and collectively, be it said, this better spirit 
prevailed to an extent that made the ocean voyage 
and 4x11 subsequent journeyings pleasant and agree- 
able through genial companionship, as it was rendered 
also by Dr. Tourjee's wise planning. 

The first night on the ocean is fraught with many 
peculiar sensations. It is difficult at first to become 
accustomed to the circumscribed limits of state-room 
and berth, and then to sleep soundly amid the 
strange noises which are heard in the otherwise silent 
watches of the dark hours ; for the utter stillness 
which else would reign on shipboard intensifies each 
stroke of the bell by which the ship's time is kept, 
the shrillness of the boatswain's whistle, the pounding 
of the propeller, the rumbling of the machinery by 
means of which the heavy sails are hoisted, the creak- 
ing of sails and rigging, and the measured " ya-ho " of 
the sailors as they work in concert to tighten some 
line or other. In the early hours of the morning a 
new sound breaks on the ear, and, perchance, if the 
would-be sleeper has disobeyed the injunction of the 
state-room stewards and allowed a port-hole to remain 
open, he is made aware of the fresh onslaught upon 
his peace of mind by more violent and disagreeable 
means. The men are washing the decks, and if it 
chances to be the appointed time for scouring or 



10 A SUMMER JAUNT 

" holy-stoning " the same, the tumult is more pro- 
longed, and even more unaccountable. 

Our first night at sea was gloriously fine. The air 
was clear and balmy, the temperature being at the 
same time so high that overcoats and outside wraps 
were needless, the ocean had all the smoothness of a 
mill-pond, and the stars shone forth with unwonted 
brilliancy. After dinner, which was served at six 
o'clock, all betook themselves to the deck to catch a 
last glimpse of the far-away stretch of the Long 
Island coast, soon to be obscured in the gathering 
gloom. Far into the evening the solitary gleam of a 
distant lighthouse was seen, either at Fire Island or 
at Shinnecock Bay ; and this was the last visible sign 
of the American coast we descried, until some two 
months later we beheld the same welcome shores in 
the golden morning lisrht on our return. The steamer 
had remained at her dock in New York through a 
week of exceedingly warm weather, and as the high 
temperature continued to an uncommon degree on the 
ocean, the deck was far more comfortable for several 
nights than the overheated state-rooms. 

The next clay was Sunday. At noon we were 220 
miles distant from Sandy Hook, in latitude 40.34 N., 
and longtitucle 69.14 W., and consequently some- 
where off Cape Cod. The temperature was still 
unusually warm, the sea calm, and, with the exception 
of fog into which we ran during the early part of the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 11 

afternoon, the weather was pleasant. The presence of 
the fog brought to all ears a new sound, — the hoarse 
and frequent notes of the steamer's whistle sounding as 
a warning to other vessels that might be in proximity. 

A Sabbath at sea is even more impressive than on 
land. A silence rests upon all around ; and the 
voyager is led to reflect, in the full presence of the 
mighty ocean, one of God's most stupendous and 
mysterious works, upon his own littleness ; upon his 
dependence on the goodness and tender care of a wise 
Creator ; and how completely he is guided by that 
beneficent hand. Yonder speck upon the vast ex- 
panse of waters, which seems to float like a mote in 
space, is a great ship like our own, freighted, too, 
with scores and hundreds of toiling, striving 1 human 
beings. But how insignificant does it all seem in 
comparison with the vastness and might of the ocean, 
— a single one of God's creations ! 

Eeligious services were held at eleven o'clock, in the 
main saloon, under the direction of Eev. Eobert J. 
Coster, D. D., a well-known Episcopalian divine, of 
Pittsburgh, Pa., who preached an earnest discourse, 
taking as his text the concluding part of the Parable 
of the Sower, Luke viii. 15 : "But that on the good 
ground are they, which, in an honest and good heart, 
having heard the word, keep it, and bring forth fruit 
with patience." From these words was enforced the 
lesson of the responsibility of every one in doing 



12 A SUMMER JAUNT 

God's work, and of the need of honest and persistent 
labor in the divine service, from which good results 
might slowly, yet surely must, follow. The choir, 
and many of the congregation, occupied the music- 
room above the saloon. Mrs. O. B. Bruce, of Bing- 
hamton, N. Y., Mr. J. Astor Broad, of Worcester, 
Mass., and Mr. G. F. Lane, of Birmingham, Pa., 
tilled the positions of pianist and organists during the 
service, and the singing, by an excellent choir, included 
the Gloria Patri to Mienke's music, the Pened ictus 
from Robinson's chant in E flat, the Old Hundredth 
Psalm, "From all that dwell below the skies," and 
"Bethany," "Nearer, my God, to Thee." 

In the evening there was a praise-service of song, 
led by Dr. Tourjee, the selections being made from 
Dr. Tourjee's " Tribute of Praise." A few choice 
selections were sung by a male chorus, and one song 
by Mr. Calvin M. Lewis, of Boston. 

Monday came with the weather clear and pleasant, 
though a trifle cooler at morning and night, and a still 
unruffled sea. The noon temperature was seventy 
degrees, and the daily observation disclosed that we 
had advanced 274 miles further on our course, to 
latitude 41.35 N., and longtitude 63.20 W., which 
would bring us one hundred miles or more off Cape 
Sable. The passengers have begun to get acquainted 
with the ways and means of the vessel, and the more 
venturesome of the gentlemen have perchance carried 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 13 

their investigations to the "chalking" point in the 
forecastle or the engine-room. To the uninitiated let 
me explain that " chalking " is a simple little device 
the sailors and other workers about the ship have of 
levying a little contribution wherewith to drink their 
"Honors'" health, if not their own. Visitors to the 
most remote regions of the vessel are received cor- 
dially, and all questions elicit ready and civil answers, 
provided the questioner knows enough not to get in^ 
the way ; but anon a sailor, or a stoker, whips out a 
bit of chalk and draws a line around the visitor, or 
across a doorway. Not a word is spoken ; but if the 
intruder elevates his eyes and goes away without 
responding to this mute appeal to his generosity, he 
will ever after elicit only gruff answers while in pur- 
suit of information in that quarter. On the other 
hand, a shilling or half-crown is a sure passport to 
favor. In some cases a chalked boot may be made a 
similar badge of sufferance and freedom. 

Out on the deck both ladies and gentlemen are in- 
itiated into the mysteries of "ring-toss" and "shovel- 
board." The latter is a game peculiar to shipboard. 
It is pktyed by means of little round blocks, which are 
shoved along the deck into a marked enclosure with 
an instrument not unlike a billiard-mace, and affords 
good exercise and amusement when the ship is not 
playing too much of a game of "pitch and toss" on 
its own account. 



14 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Some one has written the following, truthful picture 
of an ocean steamship :— 

" What a little world a ship is ; with its high life aft, and 
its low life forward ! Its passage-wa} r s are its streets, 
lined on each side with dwelling-places, which are its state- 
rooms. The steward's lockers are its shops, the cabins its 
reception-rooms ; the smoking-rooms are its clubs, where 
men go to chat, smoke, and have a quiet game of cards, or 
make up a pool on the race-horse, — which is the ship itself, 
against its own time. Far down in its bowels, away from 
the light of clay, are its miners, — the perspiration rolling off 
them in great drops, heaving the coal into the glaring fur- 
naces. The decks are its promenades and ball-room, and 
the log of the day's run its daily paper." 

Passengers on transatlantic steamers quickly learn 
the difficulty of keeping the correct time by their or- 
dinary time-pieces. The difference in time between 
New York and an ordinary English or French port, 
does not vary materially from five hours. Conse-. 
quently the vessel loses about half an hour per day 
in going eastward, and gains a corresponding amount 
in running westward. It is wisdom to let a watch 
run down and remain dormant during the voyage, and 
to depend solely on ." bell-time," which, after all, is 
most reliable for all practical purposes. The follow- 
ing table, which commences the day with the half- 
hour succeeding midnight, will be a sufficient explana- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 



15 



tion of " bell-time " to the uninitiated, it being borne in 
mind that the even strokes are always hours, and the 
odd strokes half-hours : — 



1 bell, 

2 bells, 

3 " 



5 " 

6 " 

7 " 

8 " 

1 bell, 

2 bells 

3 " 

4 " 

5 " 

6 " 

7 " 

8 " 

1 bell, 

2 bells, 

3 " 

4 " 

5 " 

6 " 

7 « 

8 " 



12.30 o'clock. 

1 " 
1.30 " 

2 " 
2.30 "" 

3 " 
3.30 " 



4.30 " 

5 " 
5.30 « 

6 " 
6.30 " 

7 " 
7.30 " 

8 " 
8.30 

9 

9.30 « 

10 " 
10.30 " 

11 " 
11.30 " 
12, noon. 



A. M. 


lbell, . 


a 


2 bells, 


a 


3 


a 


a 


4 


a 


it 


5 


it 


it 


6 


a 


a 


7 


it 


tt 


8 


a 


a 


1 bell, . 


a 


2 bells, 


tt 


3 


it 


it 


4 


a 


a 


1 bell, . 


a 


2 bells, 


it 


3 


a 


a 


4 


a 


it 


1 bell, . 


a 


2 bells, 


a 


3 


a 


a 


4 


a 


a 


5 


a 


tt 


6 


n 


tt 


7 


a 




8 


a 



12.30 o 


'clock, 


P. M 


1 


a 


a 


1.30 


a 


it 


2 


tt 


it 


2.30 


tt 


it 


3 


tt 


tt 


3.30 


a 


it 


4 


tt 


it 


4.30 


it 


a 


5 


tt 


tt 


5.30 


it 


a 


6 


it 


a 


6.30 


a 


tt 


7 


a 


it 


7.30 


tt 


it 


8 


a 


tt 


8.30 


it 


a 


9 


it 


a 


9.30 


it 


a 


10 


a 


tt 


10.30 


it 


it 


11 


it 


a 


11.30 


a 


a 


12, mid 


night. 





It should be noted that the period from 4 o'clock 
p. m., to 8 o'clock p. m., is denominated the "Dog- 
Watch," and is subdivided into two parts, from 4 to 
6, and from 6 to 8, in order to prevent the larboard 
and starboard watches of sailors from being on duty 
during the same hours, day after day, as would be the 



16 A SUMMER JAUNT 

case if the uniform division of time into watches of 
four hours each were continued uninterruptedly. 

Morning services were held in the music-room, on 
Monday, Rev. P. M. Macdonald, of Boston, Presby- 
terian, officiating, and in these and the other religious 
exercises held during the voyage, a large number of 
the passengers united. At a later hour the singing 
element of the party was assembled in the music- 
room for choral practice, under the direction of the 
distinguished musical conductor, Mr. Carl Zerrahn, of 
Boston. A goodly number united in this exercise 
also, and several part-songs, including "Farewell to 
the Forest," "The Song of the Lark," and "In the 
Forest," all by Mendelssohn, were rung forth with 
inspiring effect. 

In the course of the day the following remarkable 
announcement was posted at the head of the main 
gangway, foreshadowing a "grand entertainment" in 
the evening : — 

Grand Marinestic 

Devoniatic 

Kevivication. 

The Only Troupe 

Tolerated in West Longitude. 

ISP 3 Prima Donnas 

KIP In Bloom! ^jg 

GP 2 Bassos Confundo 

^ On Ice. j& 

8 Tenors Loose ! 

Will Eat Crumbs Out of • 

ISP Your Hand! 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 17 

For One Night! ! ! 

The Great Moral and 

Commercial Marvel, 

The Only Man in 

Boston 

- Who Paid His Debts ! 

Other Anachromatistic 

and 

Paradoxical Dissertations. 

Post Diem Concert Just 

Closed. 

Millions Without Sittings. 

Last Chance at 8, p. m. 

Carriages at Daylight. 

At the designated evening hour the passengers as- 
sembled in full numbers in the main saloon and the 
music-room, to await the musical and literary devel- 
opments. These were begun with a burlesque duet 
on the pianoforte, with the idea, apparently, to carry 
out, with some degree of consistency, the extravagant 
spirit of the official announcement ; and then the 
more solid and delightful features of the entertain- 
ment were introduced. Mr. C. M. Lewis, of Boston, 
sang, with exceedingly fine effect, Adams's beautiful 
song, "Warrior Bold," and upon an encore gave an 
equally acceptable rendering of "Nancy Lee," by the 
same composer. Mr. O. B. Bruce, of Binghamton, 
N.Y., who it should be said conducted this and the 
other entertainments during the voyage with much 
grace, tact and humor, read an original poem, which 
was received with great merriment, and subsequently 



18 A SUMMEK JAUNT 

quoted by many of the party in a more depressed 
state of animal spirits. The succeeding performance 
was a song by Miss Hattie A. Snell, of Lowell, 
Mass., whose sweet and admirably trained voice 
served on this and subsequent occasions to delight 
all listeners. Miss Snell's first contribution was 
"Dormipure" by Scudere, and an encore being per- 
sisted in, she gave a charming rendering of " Comin' 
thro' the Rye." Mr. Arthur E. Clarke, of Manches- 
ter, N. H., gave an admirable recitation of "The 
Vagabonds," by Trowbridge, and a pianoforte piece foi 
four hands, performed by Mr. Carl Suck, of Boston, 
and Miss Lizzie Tourjee, of Auburnclale, Mass., 
brought the entertainment to a conclusion. 
Mr. Bruce's poem is worth transcribing : — 

SONG OF DEGREES. 

The summer sun was sinking fast, 
As through the Narrows proudly passed, 
A ship, that hore a precious freight 
Of men and women, small and great, 
For Europe. 

Each heart was gay, each eye was hright, 
Each spirit now with courage light, 
Bade head and stomach hoth rejoice, 
While hope rang out in hoastful voice, 
Europe. 

Below the deck some took their way 
Their inner wants to fully stay, 
While others struggled, weak and lone, 
To stifle down that direful groan, 
E-u-u-rope. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 19 

" Try not to eat," the steward said, 
" But Me you to your little bed, 
And there repress your rising tide," 
But out it gushed in spite of pride, 
E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 

" Beware the stateroom, lonely cell, 
Beware of victuals' sight or smell," 
This was the doctor's kind good-night, 
A voice replied in accents light, 
E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 

At break of day, as to and fro, 
The faithful watch on deck did go, 
A sound was heard near starboard boat 
That soou disclosed that well-known note, 
E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 

A tourist by the gunwale's side, 
In heaving antics they espied, 
One hand a lemon grasping still, 
To awe that dreaded ocean ill, 
E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 

There in the dawning, chill and gray, 
Hollow but satisfied he lay, 
While from abaft came accents queer, 
That quaked his soul with boding fear, 
E-u-u-r-r-o-o-p-p-e. 

Tuesday, July 2, brought with it a comparatively 
calm sea, and a continuance of pleasant weather. At 
noon the observations showed us to be in latitude 
43.14 N:, and longitude 57.18 W. ; the temperature 
was 61 degrees. We had made 284.7 miles in the 
previous twenty-four hours, and were accordingly a 
little short of 779 miles from Sandy Hook. The 



20 A SUMMER JAUNT 

morning service was led by Eev. William P. Tilden, 
of Boston, Unitarian. Choral practice was afterwards 
indulged in under the direction of Mr. Zerrahn ; the 
chorus, "He watching over Israel," from Mendels- 
sohn's oratorio of " Elijah ;" the four-part song by 
Barnby, M Sweet and Low ;" and Keller's spirited 
American Hymn, being among the selections sung. 
At 3 o'clock, p. m., Mr. A. F. Lewis of Fryeburg, 
Me., gave an interesting lecture in the main saloon, 
on " The Wonders and Beauties of the Yosemite Val- 
ley," recounting some of the incidents of a personal 
visit to that region, and embodying in his remarks 
descriptions of much of its scenery. 

An evening entertainment was given in accordance 
with the following flaming announcement : — 

Farewell Tour 

of THE 

c iilorofo rm atic 

re j u ye x ators. 

One Night Only at 

Gastronomic Hall. 

Every Member is a 

Magxitudixous 

scixtillator. 

excrutiatory 

Rexditioxs ! 

voluijilitory 

Laryxgics! 

Detestatious 

humorosities ! 

Galaxial 

Celestiety! 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 21 

The exercises were made up chiefly of music, read- 
ings, and recitations. The overture to "The Marriage 
of Figaro," by Mozart, arranged for four hands, 
was played^ on the pianoforte by Mrs. O. B. Bruce, 
and Mrs. Sarah Lovell, of Montreal ; Miss Charlotte 
S. Thompson, of New Milford, Conn., recited "The 
Bridge of Sighs," and Mr. Bruce, the ruling spirit of 
the entertainment, propounded a series of conundrums, 
the answers to which were the names of authors. Then 
came a recitation of " The Ride from Ghent to Aix," 
by Miss E. K. Sessions, of Panama, N. Y. ; the read- 
ing of selections from Judge Halliburton's " Sam Slick," 
by Mr. T. W. Chesley, of Bridgetown, N. S. ; the 
reading of an original temperance poem, entitled "The 
Red, White, and Blue," by Mrs. Charles Springer, of 
Anamosa, la. ; and more conundrums. The other 
selections were a pianoforte solo, performed by Miss 
Lizzie M. Clark, of Phillipsburg, N. J. ; a reading by 
Mr. Bruce of one of W. L. Alden's humorous stories ; 
a march, performed on the pianoforte (four hands) 
and organ, by Miss Lizzie Tourjee, Mrs. Ralph Ely, 
of Cleveland, O., and Mrs. Bruce; "The Belle of 
Vallejo," read by Mrs. M. B. Ingham, of Cleveland, 
O., and "Charlie Machree," recited by Miss Thomp- 
son. 

A light "tea" generally followed, or interrupted 
midway the evening entertainments, and the festivities 
thus prolonged extended quite up to the appointed 



22 A SUMMER JAUNT 



hour — ten o'clock — for extinguishing the lights in 
the saloons. The ship's regulations permitted state- 
room lights an hour later, at the end of which time the 
passengers were presumably snugly ensconced in their 
"little beds." 

One of the early incidents of the voyage was the 
enrolment, of our party into five subdivisions, or sec- 
tions, for the journey beyond London. This duty was 
performed by the genial and excellent "conductor," Sig- 
nor C. A. Barattoni, who had been sent over to America 
by Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son, to accompany us to 
Europe. It was through the firm of Messrs. Cook, 
Son '& Jenkins, as the American branch of the house 
was then known, and in conjunction with the parent 
firm named above, that the details of the steamer 
arrangements, and subsequent tour, were planned and 
carried out, most of the preliminary work in this con- 
nection having devolved upon Mr. E. M. Jenkins, the 
American resident partner. Signor Barattoni early 
applied himself to the task of providing for the com- 
fort and enjoyment of those under his charge. His 
persuasive eloquence led many who had not previously 
determined the question, to take the Italian journey, 
none of whom found reason to regret their decision. 
Both as the conductor of the general party while cross- 
ing the ocean, and at the head of the Italian division 
while it was on its peregrinations on land, he won 
many warm friends. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 23 

Wednesday, July 3, brought with it a decided 
change from the calm and serene condition of things 
which had prevailed during the early stage of our 
voyage. We were approaching the much-dreaded 
Banks of Newfoundland ; indeed, were already upon 
them, and a turbulent sea destroyed all preconceived 
ideas of the fundamental principles of motion. The 
ship was a vast swing which seemed to go two ways at 
once, and each succeeding billow seemed intent upon 
lifting the poor passenger's heart from his mouth. 
There was no rush to the breakfast-table that morning, 
and some who responded to the steward's matutinal 
summons found excuse for early retirement. The 
racks are on the tables, and the dishes dance about 
right merrily. Eating under such circumstances is 
not the pleasantest of duties, even to those who have 
luckily preserved level heads and unaffected stomachs. 
To clamber up the reeling hatchway is another difficult 
feat, for the stairs have an unpleasant habit of sinking 
out from under you, or else rising so rapidly as to 
produce a sensation akin to walking up against the 
sharp angles of a stone fence. Out on deck there is a 
stiff breeze and a chilly atmosphere, but there is a 
sense of relief in getting out into the air. Promenad- 
ing the deck is attended by many sliclings and twist- 
logs, and the passengers, after a few trials at pedestri- 
anic exercise, are content to take refuge near the 
smoke-stack or steam-pipes, or, enveloped in top-coats, 



24 A SUMMER JAUNT 

shawls, and rugs, under the lee of the deck-house. 
There is no storm, but the waters are in commotion. 
The ocean presents a glorious sight, tossed in surging, 
threatening masses, which topple after each other in a 
mad race. In the course of the day many fishing-craft 
are seen, but at no time do we run in very close prox- 
imity to them. Games and amusements of nearly 
every kind were given up during the day. Once, 
however, some life and activity were put into a row of 
invalids on the starboard side of the deck, by a cry 
from the indefatigable Bruce, — " a whale ! a whale ! " 
The company peered out upon the dizzy, rolling waste 
without seeing any Avhale, and returned to their places 
with a renewed sense of their forlorn condition. There 
was the usual announcement of an evening entertain- 
ment, but this even failed to call the sufferers from 
their state-rooms or deck-chairs. The bulletin read as 

follows : — 

Benefit of 

the 

Floating Hospital ! 

Unified Appearance 

of THE 

Lachrymosical Instigators. 

Every Lady to be presented with a 

Lemon, Porridge, Smelling Salts, and Taffy. 

The 

Sensational and 

Spectacular Drama, 

E-U-U-R-R-O-O-P-P-E. 

ICO 

Performers. 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 25 

The noon observations disclosed our "whereabouts 
to be latitude 45.30 N"., and longitude 51.28 W. 
The log showed that our progress through the pre- 
ceding twenty-four hours had been 284.7 miles, 
making a total of about 1,063 miles from Sandy 
Hook ; and the thermometer recorded a temperature 
of fifty degrees. 

Thursday, July 4, was much like the previous 
day, as far as the surface of the ocean w T as concerned, 
only more so. The morning was cloudy, but without 
rain. The wind, which was from the north-west, w T as 
in our favor, and all sails were set ; but the pitching 
and tossing of the previous night deterred us a little, 
so that at the hour of noon we had made a run of 264 
miles, which brought us to latitude 47.44 N., and 
longitude 46.00 W., or about 1,327 miles from Sandy 
Hook — not quite half way on our voyage. It must 
be confessed that the glorious anniversary of Ameri- 
can Independence was not in a fair way to be exten- 
sively celebrated by the sons and daughters of 
Columbia who chanced to be on board the "Devonia." 
A large proportion of the party were quite willing to 
postpone all celebrations until Neptune showed a less 
ruffled temper, but not so the rest ; and the patriotic 
and jubilant few made up in noise for any lack of 
enthusiasm .on the part of the sea-sick ones, who were 
unwillingly rehearsing Mr. Bruce's "Song of De- 
grees." Even the charivari, or calithumpian demon- 



26 A SUMMER JAUNT 

stration which generally ushers in the day on land, 
was not forgotten,- although it came a little later than 
common ; and the Americans were glad to avail them- 
selves of the good-natured assistance of their genial 
Italian friend Barattoni, who came to the rescue with 
a harmonica, while Bruce followed with a vigorous 
accompaniment on a sauce-pan, and Bonnelle with an 
equally persistent agitation of the dinner-bell. These 
sounds forced smiles even from the pale and melan- 
choly beings who had imprisoned themselves in their 
state-rooms. Captain Craig honored the day by a 
display of bunting, the American ensign being given 
the place of honor ; and salutes were fired at noon 
and sundown. When the noon salute was fired, two 
Yankee girls, Miss Mary E. Austin, of New Bedford, 
Mass., and Miss E. K. Sessions, of Panama, N. Y., 
assisted in discharging the cannon. The noon demon- 
stration was followed by cheer upon cheer. Rev. W. 
P. Tilden, of Boston, then read the following original 
poem, from the hurricane-deck, and the first and last 
verses were sung to the tune of " America," or " God 
Save the Queen," as it may rightfully be termed 
under the British flag : — 

Land of our love and pride ! 
While o'er the sea we glide, 

Far, far away ; 
Dear to our hearts art thou, 
Never more dear than now, 
While through the sea we plough, 

On thy birth-day. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 27 

What though the widening sea 
Lifted 'twixt us and thee, 

Hide thee from sight ; 
Clear to our inward eye 
Outlined against the sky, 
Thy hills and valleys lie, 

In glory bright. 

Hail to thee, dear old Land ! 
Hail to thy rocky straud, 

Washed by the sea ; 
Hail to thy matchless plains, 
Waving with golden grains, 
Where peace aud plenty reigns, 

And man is free. 

Hail to our banner brave, 
All o'er the land and wave, 

To-day unfurled ; 
No folds to us so fair 
Float on this summer air, 
None can with thee compare, 

In all the world. 

Red, white, and blue, wave on ! 
Never may sire or son, 

Thy glory mar ; 
Sacred to liberty, 
Honored on land and sea, 
Unsoiled forever be, 

Each stripe and star. 

Proud cheers for native land, 
While on this deck we stand, 

Pilgrims afar. 
High let our voices soar, 
Joining our friends ashore — 
Hurrah ! Hurrah ! ! Hurrah ! ! ! 

Hurrah!!!! Hurrah!!!!! 



28 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Now for our steamer brave, 
Bearing us on the wave, 

One loud Hurrah ! 
Now for her captain true, 
His mates and gallant crew, 
And for Victoria, too, 

Hurrah ! Hurrah ! ! 

There was much merry-making at dinner and in the 
evening, and in recognition of the fact that the day's 
celebration had occurred in mid-ocean, the following 
resolution, offered by Rev. Mr. Tilden, was adopted : 

Resolved, That we, as a band of temperance ladies and 
gentlemen, rejoice that on this Fourth of Jury, 1878, we are 
half seas over. 

In the afternoon, too, there were various games on 
deck, including a three-legged race, a "tug of war," 
blindman's buff, and various feats of strength and 
agility. At dinner, the tables were ornamented with 
small American flags. 

Friday, July 5, dawned more graciously than the 
two days preceding. We were about emerging from 
the "rolling forties," and the sea had resumed its 
composure. There was a corresponding elevation of 
spirits on the part of the passengers. The breakfast- 
table had its usual complement of attendants, and 
the decks again presented an animated appearance.. 
Morning devotions were held under the leadership of 
Rev. C. H. Beale, of Centre Moriches, Long Island, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 29 

Methodist. At a later hour there was choral practice 
under the direction of Mr. Carl Zerrahn. There 
were still a few sea-sick sufferers, but even these were 
enlivened in the sunlight and invigorating air, and 
their faces were actually put upon a broad grin by a 
most amusing performance by Mr. Zerrahn and an 
improvised orchestra, of a remarkable composition 
entitled " The Musician from Bavaria." 

The noon observations showed that we were making 
good progress, the run of the preceding twenty-four 
hours having reached 288.7 miles. Our position was 
latitude 50.04 N., and longitude 39.36 W., or about 
1,616 miles from Sandy Hook. The temperature was 
sixty-one degrees. 

The evening entertainment was foreshadowed by 
the following remarkable manifesto : — 

To-Night Only. 
Tumultuous 
Cachinnatious 
Hallucinatious 

Manualistic 
Demonstration. 

Surviving 
Individualities 

op 
Ephemeristic 
Heterogenities. 
voxces non 
Celestes ! ! ! ! 
Ac( session) al 
Attractions. 



30 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Groanes Humoresque 

FROM 

Nova Scotia 

AND 

Innumerously 

* 

MONTROSTICAL 

Excrescences. 

Ministers in Active 

Pursuits — Free. 

Fans for Sale in 

the Corridor. 

The fulfilment of these mysterious promises opened 
with a solo on the pianoforte, after which Mr. Arthur 
E. Clarke gave an admirable recitation of the " Old 
Sergeant," by Forsyth Wilson. Mr. Bruce then read 
his " Song of Degrees," by request. Miss Hattie A. 
Snell next sang, in a very charming manner, a song 
by Jules Lafort, entitled " Water Cresses " ; and after 
a fine recitation by Miss E. K. Sessions, of "The 
Pilot's Story," by Ho wells, there was an intermission 
for tea. Resuming the entertainment, Mr. Bruce 
read "The Managing Young Man," by W. L. Alden, 
Mr. T. W. Chesley read an extract from " The Life of 
an Old Judge in a Colony," by Judge Haliburton. 
Another song was contributed, and Mr. John K. 
Bucklyn, of Mystic Bridge, Conn , read a humorous 
poem, in which the comic side of the sufferings from 
sea-sickness were touched upon in a manner which 
elicited shouts of merriment from his interested listen- 
ers. It was in the form of a letter from a young man 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 31 

to his mother, descriptive of some of the incidents of 
the trip. A song by male voices brought the festivi- 
ties to an end. 

About eleven o'clock, Friday night, after many of 
the passengers had retired, word came that a strange 
light was to be seen ahead. It was at first thought by 
Captain Craig that it might proceed from a steamer in 
distress, and the "Devonia" bore down upon the strange 
object. The passengers flocked upon deck and eagerly 
watched the lights as they gleamed afar over the dark 
waters. Soon other lights were seen, and as we drew 
nearer it became apparent that they proceeded from a 
fleet of some kind. The flagship carried a profusion 
of colored lights, while four attendant craft carried 
single white lights. Precisely what the demonstration 
was, or even the nationality of the ships, could not be 
ascertained, but it is fair to presume that they com- 
prised an English cable fleet, engaged in the work of 
repairs, their position being on the track of one 
of the submarine telegraphic lines. The impending 
difficulties between England and Russia caused many 
conjectures of a different character to be indulged in 
by the passengers of the 'VDevonia," whose enforced 
absence from the much coveted "morning paper," and 
a corresponding ignorance regarding the daily doings 
of the great world, had made any sort of a hostile 
demonstration seem possible. Upon learning that the 
stranger desired no assistance, a conclusion that was 



32 A SUMMER JAUNT 

arrived at through neglect to answer signals of inquiry, 
Captain Craig resumed his course. The incident was 
a very unusual one, and it served to vary the monot- 
ony of the voyage, and to cause no small amount of 
interest and excitement among the passengers, who 
had strained their eyes for many clays to descry the 
half-dozen steamers and sailing vessels which had been 
met with here and there on the great desert of waters. 
The loneliness of a vessel on the ocean soon strikes 
the voyager very forcibly. The forests of masts which 
cluster about the wharves of our cities, and all precon- 
ceived ideas of commerce between the nations, lead 
the traveller to expect frequent spectacles of passing 
ships and steamers, at least upon the great ocean high- 
ways between Europe and America; and yet "a sail" 
is an exceptional sight. With this discovery comes a 
new realization of the immensity of the ocean — not of 
the ocean we see ourselves, but of the vast expanse 
that lies beyond our range of vision. The "boundless 
ocean," as seen from the deck of a ship, is really much 
more circumscribed than the impressionable landsman 
is led to suppose. The horizon, when the eye is 
twenty-four feet above tlie water, is only six miles 
distant, and the steamer is virtually sailing through a 
circular pond twelve miles in diameter. Of course, 
ships, icebergs and other objects are seen at a much 
greater distance, because they project above the sur- 
face. The "depression of the horizon" can readily be 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 33 

computed by this simple rule : two-thirds of the square 
of the distance in miles is the depression in feet. For 
one mile, then, the depression is eight inches ; that is, 
if the eye is just eight inches above the water, the 
horizon, or limit of vision, is a mile off. To sec two 
miles in any direction across the water, the eye must 
be two«-thirds of four feet (or thirty-two inches) above 
the surface ; to see three miles, it must be at a height 
of six feet, and so on. The rule is accurate for all 
distances within the range of vision. 

But if ocean voyagers have not a numerous array of 
ships to distract their attention, they are not wholly 
shut out from spectacles of life and animation. There 
are the porpoises, sharks, whales, gulls, and "Mother 
Carey's chickens " to be watched. The gulls will fol- 
low a steamer for long distances over the trackless 
waters, intent upon obtaining any waste stuff that is 
thrown overboard. Our vessel frequently ran among 
large schools of porpoises. At such times the sur-: 
face of the water would be dotted with the black 
creatures, frequently for a great distance. Around 
the ship scores of them would be leaping forward 
from the water in a swift helter-skelter race with the 
huge dark monster beside them. Ordinarily a slug- 
gish creature, the porpoise can make excellent time 
when he feels impelled to rapid movement, and a 
school of them will sometimes keep up with a ship 
for a considerable distance. 



34 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Saturday, July 6, was, like its immediate predeces- 
sor, a very delightful day, with a bracing breeze, which 
helped us on our way. The exercises of the clay were 
greatly enjoyed. There were morning devotions, with 
Rev. O. D. Kimball, of Leominster, Mass., Baptist, 
as the officiating clergyman, and subsequently choral 
practice under Mr. Zerrahn's direction. At noon we 
were in latitude 52.20 N., and longitude 33.00 w| 
some 1,900 miles from Sandy Hook, or something less 
than 1,100 miles from our destination. The day's run 
had been 283.3 miles, and the recorded temperature 
was fifty-nine degrees. An evening entertainment 
was given in pursuance of the following high-sounding 
bulletin : — 

PONDERIFIC LUGUBRIOSITY. 

DlAPHONISTIC 

Reverbe K ATORS 

Universally Triumphant. 

Invited by Crowned Heads 

to Leave their Realms. 

Cacophonatic 

Cachinnators. 

Ethical Delineators. 

Lingual Sonorists. 

Duettic Tiirillarians. 

quartettic symphonists. 

Lunatistical Thrummists. 

Solodic Yawpists. 

Juveniliated Spoutators. 

La Femme de Temporibus 

Anti-quississimus Mundane. 

Interspersed with Calm Tea 

and other mild 

Refreshments. 

Devour at 8.30 P. M. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 35 

The opening performance was a march, by Schubert, 
arranged for pianoforte and organ, and played by 
Mrs. Bruce, Miss Lula Butler, of Memphis, Tenn., 
and Mrs. Lovell, of Montreal. Rev. C. H. Beale 
then read a poem of a humorous character, descriptive 
of some of the incidents of the voyage, and filled 
with pleasant allusions to Dr. Tourjee, Mr. Zerrahn, 
Mr. Bruce, and other members of the party. Mr. 
Bruce next proceeded to give a lecture on " Hash," 
in which many new and astounding facts in regard to 
that mysterious subject were disclosed. The lecture 
was illustrated by " our own artist," Mr. Ira C. Denise, 
of Franklin, Warren County, Ohio. "The Two 
Roses," by Mendelssohn, was sung by a quartette of 
male voices, and Mr. A. F. Lewis read a parody on 
"Maud Muller." Mrs. M. B. Ingham next read an 
interesting account of Signor Barattoni's Observations 
in China, as contained in one of his published letters. 
Signor Barattoni, although a young man, has trav- 
elled very extensively, having twice been around the 
world, and many times to all parts of Europe. Miss 
Sessions contributed a song, " Robert toi que faime" 
from Meyerbeer's "Robert le Diable," and then there 
was an intermission for tea. After this interesting 
exercise, the intellectual entertainment was resumed, 
the concluding features being a recitation by Mr. F. 
L. Steele, of Winchester, Mass., and a reading by 
Mr. Bruce, of ff The Carthaginian," from W. L. 
Alden's "Shooting Stars," 



36 A SUMMER JAUNT 

On Sunday, July 7, occurred one of those sad and 
impressive scenes, sometimes, yet not often, witnessed 
on board an ocean steamer — a burial at sea. A poor 
fellow, who was working his passage among the 
stokers, and who was too ill to work at all, but had 
been given a place in order that he might reach the 
old country, had fallen while ascending from the fur- 
naces to the deck, and, lodging upon a vent-hole, had 
been suffocated. Under the presumption that he was 
feigning illness, and wished to shirk his duty, he had 
been kicked and cuffed about by the sailors, and it is 
feared that he was too weak to hold on to the ladder 
when he was ascending from the fire-room, where he 
had been at work. The burial took place at noon — 
eight bells. Dr. Scott, the ship's surgeon, read the 
burial service of the Church of England, commencing: 

" I am the resurrection and the life, saith the Lord : He 
that believeth in me, though he were dead, jet shall he live ; 
and whosoever liveth and believeth in me shall never die." 

Omitting a portion, he continued : — 

" We therefore commit his body to the deep, to be turned 
into corruption, looking for the resurrection of the body 
(when the sea shall give up her dead) , and the life of the 
world to come, through our l^ord Jesus Christ ; who at His 
coming shall change our vile body, that it may be like His 
glorious bod} T , according to the mighty working whereby He 
is able to subdue all things to Himself." 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 37 

The folds of the British flag, which had previously 
covered the remains, were withdrawn, and two stal- 
wart sailors launched the corpse, which had been 
sewn in a canvas bag and weighted at the feet, from 
a board to the waves. A plash was heard, and all 
that was mortal of the friendless outcast disappeared 
forever from human sight. The doctor closed the 
services by reading the Lord's prayer and pronounc- 
ing the benediction, and the sailors cast adrift the 
boards on which the dead body had rested. The de- 
ceased was a young Irishman, about thirty-five years 
old, and was named on the ship's list James Smieton. 

Eeligious services were held in the saloon, both 
forenoon and afternoon, and they were rendered more 
than usually impressive by the sad incident just re- 
lated. The morning service was conducted by Rev. 
A. B. Peabody, of Stratham, N. H., Congregational- 
ist. After the singing of the hymn, "Come, thou 
fount of every blessing," the reading of the second 
Psalm and a portion of the twenty-fifth chapter of 
Matthew, a fervent prayer, in which the death that 
had occurred on board was touchingly alluded to, and 
the singing of a second hymn, "I love thy kingdom, 
Lord," Mr. Peabody preached a discourse from the 
text contained in a portion of the thirty-sixth verse of 
the eighteenth chapter of John : " Jesus answered, My 
kingdom is not of this world." He spoke of the char- 
acteristics of Christ's kingdom as manifested in our 



38 A SUMMER JAUNT 

own souls, as having small beginnings and great re- 
suits. With holiness in the soul comes the kingdom 
of Christ. The greatness of the sea was referred to 
as typical of the greatness of God's work. While the 
nations are of the earth, God's kingdom is eternal. 

The afternoon service was conducted by Rev. Geo. 
W. Fisher, of Peacedale, R. I., Congregationalist. 
Portions of the hymn beginning, " From every stormy 
wind that blows," were sung, and Mr. Fisher then, 
with much appropriateness, read portions of a sug- 
gestive •" Sermon on the Sea," delivered by the late 
Rev. Dr. Swain, of Providence, R. I. The services 
were concluded by the singing of two stanzas of the 
hymn entitled " Your Mission : " 

" If you cannot on the ocean sail 
Among the swiftest fleet." 

At a later hour a Bible-class was conducted by Mr. 
John K. Buddy n, of Mystic Bridge, Conn., Baptist; 
and in the evening a praise-meeting was held, under 
the guidance of Dr. Tourjee, a large number uniting 
in the exercises. 

The noon observations on Sunday showed that we 
had made 288. 8- miles in twenty-four hours (about 
2,188 miles from Sandy Hook), our position being 
latitude 54.00 N., and longitude 25.28 W. The 
thermometer recorded a temperature of GO. 5 de- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. ' 39 

There was a rain-storm during the night of Sunday, 
and during the ensuing day ; but aside from the fact 
that this placed deck exercise partly out of question, 
for the time being, and "shovel-board" wholly in 
abeyance, on account of the wet condition of the decks, 
the weather continued favorable to health and comfort. 
The usual morning devotions were held, Rev. John P. 
Watson, of Marshapaug, Conn., Congregationalist, 
officiating. There was also choral practice under Mr. 
Zerrahn's direction. At noon it was found that we 
had made a glorious run — 305 miles — in the previous 
twenty-four hours. Our position was latitude 55.08 
N., and longitude 16.58 W., which brought us about 
2,493 miles from Sandy Hook, or to within less than 
five hundred miles of our destination. The tempera- 
ture was fifty-nine degrees. 

In the afternoon an interesting lecture was delivered 
in the saloon, by Rev. J. Thorburn, of Ottawa, P. O., 
on "Edinburgh." Some of the chief attractions of 
that beautiful Scottish city were described, and the 
lecturer embodied in his remarks many practical sug- 
gestions regarding the visit of the party to that and 
other interesting portions of Scotland. 

The bulletin for the evening performances made its 
appearance in the following form :— 

Unprecedentual 

Penultimatical 

Cantabilactorism ! 






40 A SUMMEE JAUNT 

CORRUSCATIVE TONALITIES 
BY THE 

Indigenactic Coterie 

of 

tourjee-ans 

IN 

Eejuvenated 
Paraphernalias. 

DlORAMAICAL 

Illusitories. 

Speareshakerian, 

Mandarinic and 

Felineal Oratistics. 

Eventuated and » 

Senile atic Witticisities. 

!^T Let's Go! .jg 

Previous to the regular entertainment, Signor 
Barattoni made some explanatory statements regard- 
ing the forthcoming journey. A duet, " Mira la 
bianca Luna" by Rossini, was then sung by Miss 
Snell and Miss Charlotte H. Munger, of Worcester, 
Mass. Miss Sessions next recited a scene from Shake- 
speare's "Antony and Cleopatra." Mr. A. F. Lewis 
favored the company with a humorous song, " The 
Three Sailors of Bristol City." An interesting inci- 
dent connected with this evening's proceedings, was 
a collection in behalf of the Life-Boat Service of Great 
Britain. In introducing the subject, Mr. Bruce made 
some eloquent and feeling remarks, calling attention 
to the value of the service, not only to sailors, whose 
life was spent upon the ocean, but also to passengers, 
like ourselves, who might equally claim its benefits. 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 41 

The contributions reached something over forty dollars. 
A like sum was contributed during the day, mainly 
through the instrumentality of Mr. Zerrahn, for a party 
of poor steerage passengers. 

Just before breakfast-time, on the morning of 
Tuesday, July 9, the welcome sound of "land ho!" 
was heard from one of the sailors forward, and there 
was a general rush of the passengers to the decks to 
catch an early glimpse of the pleasant sight. A light 
mist prevailed, but the rocky headlands of the Island 
of Arranmore, off the the western coast of Donegal, 
Ireland, were soon in plain view. The clouds soon 
broke up altogether, and as the bright sun appeared, 
the gray tinge of the waters gave place to tints of 
deep blue, contrasting with the living greens along 
the coast, which were relieved here and there by little 
stretches of white sandy beach. Against the cliffs, or 
along the beach, are seen momentary flashes of white 
foam„ Through the day we continued to sail but a 
short distance from the shore, and the picturesque 
scenery of the northern Irish coast was greatly en- 
joyed. The sea-sick and the home-sick were cer- 
tainly revived by the beautiful panorama of green 
slopes and graceful headlands. 

The morning services were held on the upper deck, 
Eev. E. S. Chase, of Hopkinton, Mass., Methodist, 
conducting the devotions. Our course lying up the 
Donegal coast, we went between the mainland and 



42 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Tory Island, and as we were at no time far from the 
shore, the view was enchanting. Among the early 
features which arrest the eye of the voyager in the 
approach to the Irish coast, are the ancient stone tow- 
ers which are seen from time to time upon the head- 
lands. By noon the Island of Inishtrahull, which lies 
off the extreme northern extremity of Ireland, was 
descried. Off Inishowen Head, which marks the en- 
trance to Lough Foyle, whereon the landing-place of 
Moville lies, the steamer was telegraphed, but no stop 
was made. Between three and four o'clock in the 
afternoon we passed the Giant's Causeway, and Captain 
Craig very kindly ran the vessel as near the shore as 
he could with safety, in order that the passengers might 
obtain a near view of this interesting bit of scenery. 
We had already passed the little towns of Port Stew- 
art and Portrush (the latter of which is distinguished 
as having been the home of Adam Clarke) , the Sker- 
ries, and Dunluce Castle, a cluster of ruins which 
stands on a ledge of rock one hundred and twenty 
feet above the sea. In the appearance of the Giant's 
Causeway, as seen from the ocean, the traveller is 
very likely to be disappointed. It is not as extensive 
or as imposing as he had expected, and pretty much 
the same testimony is borne by those who have studied 
its various features on shore, although a close inspec- 
tion of the wonderful basaltic formation must surely 
be interesting. Along the coast at this point are sev- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 43 

eral large caverns, one of them being directly under 
Dunluce Castle. Continuing on by Bengore Head, 
we passed between Rathlin Isle and the main coast, 
soon gaming: a view of the Scottish coast at the south- 
era extremity of the peninsula of Can tyre. 

Leaving Benmore, or Fair Head, upon our right, 
we steamed across the North Channel, and in the early 
evening reached the Frith of Clyde, near the entrance 
to which, rising for a height of over a thousand feet 
from the water is the bleak Island of Ailsa Craig, to 
which the Covenanters were banished. 

The evening sail up the Frith of Clyde to Greenock, 
where the "Devonia" cast anchor between ten and eleven 
o'clock, was very delightful. In this northern latitude 
twilight continues until nearly this hour, and the beau- 
tiful scenery in the vicinity of Arran Isle, one of the 
country seats of the Duke of Hamilton, Holy Isle, 
upon which a mountain rises from the water's edge, 
and at the many other interesting points, could be 
closely scanned. Opposite Arran Isle lie Ayr (the 
birthplace of Burns) , and Irvine. Several picturesque 
little watering places are passed, and we sail between 
the small and rocky Cumbray Islands on the right, and 
the Isle of Bute on the left. The latter is better cul- 
tivated than Arran Isle, or any parts of the mainland 
we have passed. On the east coast of this island lies 
the town of Rothesay, beautifully situated, and Mount- 
stuart, the seat of the Marquis of Bute, the present 
Governor-General of Canada. Far away, in the dim 
distance, are the Highlands of Perthshire. The Kyles 



44 A SUMMER JAUNT 

of Bute, a winding channel which separates the island 
from the neighboring shores of Argyle, are on the 
left, as are also Toward Light and the old town of 
Dunoon, one of the places where the Irish emigrants 
from the North of Ireland settled in the sixth century. 
From this point to the busy manufacturing town of 
Greenock, where the Clyde River empties into the 
Frith, and forms Greenock Roads, wherein we cast 
anchor, is but a little distance. 

Friendly demonstrations were made at several points 
along our course, and answering cheers were sent back 
from the steamer's deck. Hearty cheers were also 
given by the passengers for Dr. Tourjee, Captain 
Craig, and his gallant officers and crew, Carl Zerrahn, 
Mr. Bruce, Signor Barattoni and others. 

The noon observations on the closing clay of our 
voyage, taken, of course, while we were off the Irish 
coast, went almost unheeded ; but they are worth re- 
cording, more especially as they disclosed the best day's 
run of the whole voyage — 317.4 miles. Our position 
was shown to be latitude 55.20 N., and longitude 7.42 
W. ; the temperature was sixty-two degrees. 

The closing social meeting on board the steamer, 
was held late Tuesday evening, in obedience to the 
following announcement : — 

Farewell ! 

Climaxial Finality 

Exodicious 

Ambulatatious 

Eruditical 
Eesolvatators. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 45 

EUPIIONISTIC 
LlNGUALISMS. 

Phantomimic 
Orthographists. 
i Catxip-tioxal 

DlSSERTATIVES. 
DlSSOLVETETIC 

Pronunciamento. 
At 10 5-10, p. m. 

The proceedings were of a somewhat different char- 
acter than on previous evenings. Mr. Bruce presided, 
as usual, and made some felicitous remarks upon the 
prosperous and happy termination of the voyage, and 
upon the pleasant prospect the members of the party had 
before them. He also paid an eloquent tribute to Old 
Scotia, the land we had reached. In conclusion, he 
announced the appointment of Mr. Frank J. Bonnelle, 
of Boston, Kev. Dr. Coster, of Pittsburgh, and Mr. 
Bucklyn, of Mystic Bridge, Conn., as a committee to 
draw up a series of resolutions. The following reso- 
lutions were reported, and unanimously adopted : — 

Resolved, That the close attention of Captain Craig, and 
those under his command, in providing for our wants and 
conducing to our comfort, as well as their uniform courtesy 
throughout the voyage, deserve and receive our warmest 
commendation. 

Resolved, That the watchful care of Dr. Tourjee over the 
welfare of all, and the willing services of Carl Zerrahn in 
directing the musical exercises, call for a heartfelt acknowl- 
edgment, which we now express. 

Resolved, That we thoroughly appreciate the untiring, but 
very successful efforts of Prof. O. B. Bruce in conducting 



46 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the series of entertainments, day and evening, and tender 
him our hearty thanks for the part he has taken in the many 
ways in which he has added to the enjoyment and improve- 
ment of the entire party. 

Resolved, That we hereby return our thanks to Mrs. O. 
B. Bruce, »Miss E. K. Sessions, Miss Hattie A. Snell, and 
the several other ladies and gentlemen who have contributed 
in a musical and literary way to our entertainment in the 
past ten clays. 

On motion of Mr. Chesley, of Bridgetown, Nova 
Scotia, the following resolution was also adopted : — 

Resolved, That the thanks of the ladies and gentlemen 
comprising this present party of tourists, be cordially ten- 
dered to Mr. C. A. Barattoni, the conductor of the party, 
for his effective and able administration of his office hither- 
to, and also of their confidence in the able and effective con- 
ducting of our party to the termination of our tour of 
Europe. 

Eev. Mr. Bealc read a valedictory address, summing 
up some of the happy incidents of the voyage, and 
further remarks were made by Mr. Lewis, of Frye- 
burg, Me., and Mr. Bucklyn. Dr. Z. Freeman, of 
Cincinnati, O., proposed that a further formal vote of 
thanks be passed to Dr. Tourjee for his skilful and 
happy planning of the excursion, and this was accord- 
ingly done; after which "Old Hundred" was sung, 
and the assemblage dissolved to obtain a few brief 
hours' sleep before an early start for Glasgow and the 
Scottish lakes. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 47 



CHAPTEE II. 

SCOTLAND. 

\.n Early Visit to Glasgow — St. George's Square, the Cathedral, 
&c. — A Charming Excursion through Loch Lomond, Loch 
Katrine, and the Trosachs — The Land of Kob Roy — The 
Scenes of Scott's "Lady of the Lake." — Stirling and its Ancient 
Castle — Edinburgh and its Beautiful Situation — Its Monu- 
ments and Historic Sites — Calton Hill — Holyrood Palace, and 
its Keminiscences of Mary Queen of Scots — A Walk through 
Old Edinburgh— The Castle and its Sights— The Queen's 
Drive — The University and its School of Music — A Memorial 
to Canine Fidelity — Eeception by the Sabbath-School Teach- 
ers' Union — Interesting Addresses — The Journey to Melrose — 
Melrose Abbey — Abbotsford and its Relics. 

We remained on the steamer all night, and were 
iroused at an early hour in the morning. We had 
boped to reach Glasgow on the 9th, in which case we 
should have passed the night in that city, but the 
lateness of the hour when we reached Greenock, and 
the further delay which would have ensued at the 
bands of the customs officers, and in landing, ren- 
dered our detention on board until the morrow ad- 
visable. After an early breakfast, and a due attention 
bo the requirements of Her Majesty's custom-house 
officials, a task which occupied little time, and put us 
bo very little inconvenience, we were set ashore in a 



48 



A SUMMER JAUNT 



small steam-tender, which had to make two or three 
trips to convey the entire party and the luggage. 
Taking the railway train at the Prince's Pier Station, 
we were quickly whisked up the south bank of the 
Clyde, through Paisley, and several smaller places, to 
the St. Enoch Station, in Glasgow, a distance of 
twenty-four and a half miles, arriving before seven 
o'clock. 

Our visit was made before Glasgow fairly had its 
eyes open, and the carriage-drivers, several very cour- 
teous and civil policemen, a few market-men and the 
crossing-sweepers only turned out to greet the Amer- 
icans on their arrival. The solicitations of the first 
class named were, for the most part, unheeded, the 
distance across to the North British Railway Station 
being comparatively short, and the appeals to the 
policemen were mainly with a view to being directed 
to the post-office — not yet opened, — where, in due 
time, the officials were doubtless much astonished at 
the sudden influx of American correspondence. 

The principal streets and/squares of Glasgow instant- 
ly impress the stranger favorably. On every hand are 
stores and marts of trade, which toll of the city's com- 
mercial importance. This is foretold before the city 
itself is reached, in the lines of manufactories and ship- 
building establishments that line the Clyde. Glasgow 
is the third city in the United Kingdom in point of 
wealth, population, and commercial interests. The 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 49 

population, within parliamentary boundaries, at the 
last census (1876) was 527,553, while the total popu- 
lation of the city and its suburbs was 697,775. St. 
George's Square is situated near the centre of the 
city, and within a short distance of the three chief 
railway stations. This is the principal square in the 
city, and it is richly ornamented with bronze statues. 
The chief monument is a Grecian Doric column, about 
eighty feet in height, surmounted by a colossal statue 
of Walter Scott. The pedestal bears the simple and 
comprehensive inscription, "Walter Scott." There are 
also statues of Sir John Moore and Lord Clyde, — both 
natives of Glasgow ; of James Watt, who made here 
his experiments in steam ; Thomas Graham, Sir Robert 
l 3 eel, Robert Burns, James Oswald, Queen Victoria, and 
Prince Albert. The two latter are equestrian, and by 
Marochetti. The statue of Watt is by Chantrey. Watt 
prepared the way for Henry Bell, who, in 1812, 
launched on the Clyde the first steamboat ever known 
in British waters. A monument to Bell stands upon 
Dunglass Rock, near Dumbarton. The early steam- 
boat was called " The Comet," and plied between Glas- 
gow and Greenock. Around the square are some of 
the principal hotels, and upon one side is the post- 
office. Near at hand, on Queen Street, is the Royal 
Exchange, a large, handsome stone building, in front 
of which is an equestrian statue of the Duke of Wel- 
lington , by Marochetti . The principal street — Argyle , 



50 A SUMMER JAUNT 

named after the noble family of Argyle, — runs parallel 
with the river Clyde. At right angles with this main 
thoroughfare run many other business streets. Argyle 
Street, running eastward, leads into Trongate (so 
called from a' Tron, or public weigh-house, which 
formerly stood upon it), and thence on to "The 
Cross," where the celebrated Tontine Buildings, once 
the focus of business and politics, still stand, and 
near which formerly stood the old Tolbooth, or city 
prison, the scene of the midnight adventure of Francis 
Osbaldistone and Eob Roy. The cathedral is situated 
on a height in the north-east part of the city. St. 
Kentigern, or St. Mungo, founded a bishopric here 
about the year 500, and erected a church of wood 
where the present fine edifice was founded by Bishop 
Joceline in 1181. The architecture is of the early 
English style, and the edifice is gloomy, massive, and 
imposing. The Necropolis rises above the cathedral, 
and with its shrubbery and. multitudes of monuments, 
forms a noble background for the ancient structure. 
At the summit of the hill is a towering monument to 
John Knox. Glasgow University, a handsome and 
extensive group of buildings, is at the opposite ex- 
tremity of the city, overlooking West End Park. 

On account of the great numbers of our party, it 
was found advisable to divide it into two sections 
for the excursion through Loch Lomond, Loch Kat- 
rine, and the Trosachs, one section being taken first to 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 51 

Balloch Pier, and thence northward through Loch 
Lomond ; and the other taking the reverse direction, 
via Stirling, Callander, the Trosachs, &c., and south- 
ward through Loch Lomond. Edinburgh, forty-six 
miles from Glasgow, was to be the destination of both 
divisions. It was my good fortune to be included in 
the division that went first to Loch Lomond. The 
distance from Glasgow to Balloch Pier is about 
twenty-one miles, and when the traveller is once out 
of the city, and clear of the tunnels and high embank- 
ments, the prospect is very delightful. The waters of 
the Clyde are at times in view, and sixteen miles from 
Glasgow, near the river, is the great clefted rock on 
which stands Dumbarton Castle. Here, it will be 
remembered, the hero Wallace was imprisoned, hav- 
ing been betrayed by the base Sir John Menteith, who 
invited him hither under the guise of friendship, and 
then thrust him into a dungeon. Mary Queen of 
Scots, too, lived here during the early portion of her 
childhood. 

Arriving at Balloch, we were transferred to one of 
the little steamers which ply on Loch Lomond, and 
amid a slight " Scotch mist," a sort of heavy dew, 
which scarcely served to keep us from the decks, we 
began our trip through this beautiful sheet of water. 
A most tempting breakfast served much better than 
the moisture to clear the upper decks, and it is almost 
needless to acid,' that, with appetites sharpened by the 



52 A SUMMER JAUNT 

recent sea-voyage, and more keenly appreciative of 
the delights of shore-cooking, full and ample justice 
was done thereto, notwithstanding it was the second 
breakfast that had been furnished us since the early 
morning. 

Loch Lomond, rightfully called the "Queen of the 
Scottish Lakes," is about twenty-three miles in length, 
and at the southern extremity, where it is widest, is 
about five miles in breadth, from which it gradually 
grows narrower, terminating, northward, in a strip of 
water. On both sides, and on the north, are moun- 
tains, some of which rise from the water's edge, while 
here and there, scattered along the shores, are pictur- 
esque country seats, or little villages. Balloch and 
Boturich Castles are seeii upon the right soon after 
leaving Balloch Pier. The loftiest of the mountains is 
proud Ben Lomond, 3,192 feet in height, situated a 
few miles east of the lake, and some two-thirds of the 
way from its southern extremity. During our passage 
up the_ lake,' Ben Lomond kept his brow wrapped in 
mist, and we caught only momentary glimpses of this 
monarch of the region. In the broad section of the 
lake, a number of small islands are passed. The 
largest of these is Inch Murrin (Inch, in the Gaelic, 
means island) , which is preserved as a deer-park by 
the Duke of Montrose, who resides at Buchanan 
House, a short distance from the lake, on the eastern 
shore. At its southern extremity are the ruins of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 53 

Lennox Castle, formerly a residence of the Earls of 
Lennox. Here Isabel, Duchess of Albany, resided 
after the execution of her husband, sons, and father, 
at Stirling, in 1424. From the little island known as 
Clairinch, the Buchanans took their slogan, or war-cry. 
Inch Cailliach (the Island of Women) is so called 
from having been the site of a nunnery in the dim 
past. It also contains the old parish church of Bu- 
chanan, and the burial-ground of the MacGregors. 
Inchfad is the Long Island ; Inchcruin, the Round 
Island ; Inchlonaig, the Isles of Yew-trees ; Inch- 
tavanach, Monk's Isle, &c. It is said that Inchlonaig 
was used at the beginning of the present century as a 
retreat for drunken wives. The husband was wont to 
land the offender with a loaf of bread and a pitcher of 
cold water, and there she would remain captive until 
the forgiving lord chose to take pity on his repentant 
spouse. On Inchcruin was once an asylum for the 
insane. 

The scenery upon the lake is beautiful beyond 
description. It is a constant succession of charming 
pictures, into which the expanse of clear water, 
dotted here and there with emerald islets, rugged 
mountain cliffs, verdant shores, and cosy cottages, or 
the more imposing manor-house, nestling amid the 
luxuriant foliage, enter with ever-varying form and in 
different combinations. Here in Scotland, as in Ire- 
land, the moist atmosphere bestows a rich, living 



54 A SUMMER JAUNT 

green upon grass and foliage. Balmaha, near a nar- 
row pass through which, in the olden time, the High- 
landers frequently came on their raids into the Low- 
lands ; Luss,'near which the celebrated battle be- 
tween the MacGregors and the Colquhouns, fraught 
with such fatal consequences to both parties, was 
fought, and near which, also, the latter family holds 
to-day its baronial home at Rossdhu House ; Roward- 
ennan, the point from which Ben Lomond, six miles 
distant, is usually ascended ; and Tarbet, a delightful 
retreat with a most inviting looking inn (situated on 
the estate of Laird M'Murrich), from whence tourists 
ride only two miles to reach the head of Loch Long, 
are passed all too soon, and Inversnaid, the end of 
our present lake journey, is reached. Just before the 
pier is reached, the beautiful Fall of Inversnaid, the 
the scene of Wordsworth's " Highland Girl," is seen. 
It is at the mouth of Arklet Water, the stream which 
drains the little Loch Arklet, afterwards passed on 
the road to Stronachlacher. 

It seems remarkable, when we reflect that a little 
over a century and a half ago — as late as the year 
1712 — this district was peopled by that predatory 
race whose exploits furnished Sir Walter Scott with 
the exciting scenes of his novel of "Rob Roy." A 
little to the north are the ruins of Inversnaid fort, 
erected in 1713 by the government, for the purpose of 
checking the turbulence of the MacGregor clan. This 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 55 

fort was at one time the headquarters of General 
Wolfe. Not far from Loch Arklet are several primi- 
tive huts, one of which is pointed out as the original 
residence of Rob Roy, and another as the birthplace 
of Helen, his wife. Rob Roy's cave, where the bold 
outlaw hid himself from his pursuers, is above Inver- 
snaid, on the shore of the lake ; and Rob Roy's 
prison is an almost inaccessible rock some distance 
below this point. Opposite Inversnaid is Inveruglas 
Isle, on which are the ruins of an old stronghold of 
the Macfarlanes. History records that in 1306, King 
Robert the Bruce, with five hundred followers, while 
fleeing before the avenging Lord of Lorn, who had 
married a daughter of the Red Comyn, whom Bruce 
had sacrilegiously slain within the monastery of Grey- 
friars at Dumfries, crossed Loch Lomond, near In- 
versnaid, their only means of ferriage being a little, 
leaky boat which would carry only three passengers 
at a time. At an earlier period (1263, in the reign 
of Alexander III. of Scotland) the placid Loch Lo- 
mond was the scene of an invasion by the Norwegians, 
who cruelly plundered and murdered the people after 
the latter had fled to the islands for safety. 

From Inversnaid to Stronachlacher, which is situ- 
ated near the head of the beautiful Loch Katrine, is 
about five and a half miles, and we rode thither in 
"brakes" over an excellent road. Here, as at Invers- 
naid, there is nothing except a comfortable little inn, 



56 A SUMMER JAUNT 

a gentleman's country-house, and a steamboat-landing 
to denote the place ; but the grounds about the inn 
are nicely kept, while the neighboring hillsides not 
only teem with flowers, but afford grand prospects of 
lake and mountains, so that the time passed in waiting 
for the steamer was most pleasantly occupied. In the 
little steamer "Rob Roy" the other members of our 
party arrive, and after hurried greetings, we take 
their places on board to pursue our journey over the 
route they have already travelled. 

Loch . Katrine and its neighborhood are so inti- 
mately associated with Scott's romance of the " Lady 
of the Lake," that the work almost serves as a 
guide-book, and the drivers and local guides readiry 
supply every item of information lacking in its pages, 
pointing out with wonderful certainty the exact spot 
of every occurrence there referred to. It is an inspir- 
ing place in which to read the entrancing poem ; but 
this had better not be attempted unless the traveller 
has plenty of time while halting, else the pleasant 
occupation must surely prevent him from seeing and 
enjoying the scenery. The lake is small, compared 
with Loch Lomond, being only seven and a half miles 
long. The scenery is wilder and more romantic, and 
the same intense green covers forest and mountain- 
side. Ellen's Isle is a gracefully rounded and densely 
wooded island quite near the south-eastern extremity 
of the lake. Northward rises Ben A'n to the height 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 57 

of 1,800 feet, and on the opposite shore, Ben Venue 
rears his head to a loftier height — 2,386 feet. It 
was a spur of the former the brave Fitz-James 
climbed upon — 

" And thus an airy point he won, 
Where, gleaming with the setting sun, 
One burnished sheet of living gold, 
Loch Katrine lay beneath him rolled." 

To leave the paths of fancy and return to the prac- 
tical, it may be recorded that the city of Glasgow 
obtains its water supply from this lovely Highland 
lake, an aqueduct extending thence a distance of forty 
miles. 

At the picturesque landing-place another long line 
of open wagons, or "brakes," were in readiness, and 

"Then dashing down a darksome glen, 
Soon lost to hound and hunter's ken, 
In the deep Trosach's wildest nook," 

our party were ushered into the presence of another 
famous bit of Highland scenery. The Trosachs is the 
designation of a narrow, rocky defile, from which, 
until the present road was made, says Scott, there 
was no mode of issuing except by a sort of ladder 
composed of the branches and roots of trees. The 
walls are not as high, nor the scenery as wild, as in the 
chief passes of the White Mountains of New Hamp- 
shire, nor do the trees approach anything like gigantic 
size. For all these reasons the American traveller is 
likely to be disappointed in its physical proportions. 



58 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Nevertheless, the spot is picturesque, and Scotland's 
great poet and novelist has invested it with such deep 
romance, that it is full of interest, Somewhere neat 
the easterly end of the gorge, Fitz- James lost his 
"gallant gray," and the drivers will doubtless point 
out the precise spot. 

We stopped at the Trosachs Hotel, a handsome and 
turreted edifice, overlooking the lovely little Loch 
Achray, long enough to get an excellent dinner, and 
then once more mounting the comfortable wagons, 
were off for Callander, nine miles distant. The road 
lies along the north shore of the little lake last named, 
and affords most enchanting visions through the trees 
of the neighboring mountains and the quieter scenery 
of the glen. 

" But nearer was the copse-wood gray, 
That waved and wept on Loch Achray, 
And mingled with the pine-trees blue 
On the bold cliffs of Ben Venue." 

The old Brigg of Turk is. crossed, and Duncraggan 
is soon reached. Northward is the lofty Ben Ledi 
(2,875 feet), lying east of Glenfinlas, and a little 
further, on the right of the road, at the head of Loch 
Vennachar, is Lanrick Mead, the ancient gathering- 
ground of the Clan- Alpine. 

1 At length they came, where, stern and steep, 
The hill sinks down upon the deep. 
Here Vennachar in silver flows, 
There, ridge on ridge, Ben Ledi rose." 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 59 

On this hillside it was that Vich- Alpine's warriors 
started out of the ferns at the whistle of their chief- 
tain to confront Fitz- James. Loch Vennachar is 
larger than Loch Achray, but its scenery is less wild 
and romantic. From its eastern extremity flows the 
river Teith, across which, near the lake, was Coilan- 
togle Ford, the spot where Roderick Dhu challenged 
Fitz-James to single combat. There was formerly a 
fall here, but the ancient landmarks of the ford have, 
to some extent, been obliterated by the operations of 
the Glasgow water-works, which have caused the 
banks of the lake to be raised several feet, in order to 
form a reservoir for the supply of the mills on the 
Teith. Beyond the lake the road winds along a spur 
of Ben Ledi, and, at a considerable height, is a huge 
bowlder known as " Samson's Futting-Stone," which 
seems ready to roll down the hillside upon the 
passer-by. We cross the river Leny to Kilmahog, 
and ten minutes later are in Callander, where we take 
the Caledonian Railway for Stirling, sixteen miles 
distant. The railway ride takes us through two inter- 
esting towns before we reach Stirling; viz., Doune, 
where are the ruins of a feudal castle, for a time a royal 
residence, and Dunblane, with its ancient cathedral, 
which was founded early in the twelfth century. The 
Bridge of Allan, a well-known watering-place, is also 
passed, the latter being only three miles from Stirling. 

We halted at Stirling over a train, in order to visit 



60 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the ancient castle and Grey friars Church. The town 
is situated near the river Forth, and on a gradually 
sloping eminence, bearing externally some resem- 
blance to the site of the old part of Edinburgh. Its 
ancient castle, which stands on the brow of a precip- 
itous rock, is closely associated with the history of 
Scotland from an early period. The date of its foun- 
dation is unknown, but it was a fortress in the time 
of the Picts. Alexander I. died within its walls in 
1124, and in 1304 it held out for three months against 
Edward I. of England, at the head of a powerful 
army. For ten years Stirling remained in the posses- 
sion of the English. To maintain its possession, Ed- 
ward II. assembled a great army and undertook the 
invasion of Scotland, which terminated in his defeat 
on the neighboring field of Bannockburn. After the 
death of Bruce it was captured by Edward Baliol, the 
aspirant to the Scottish throne, and from him it was 
recovered for King David, after a long and obstinate 
siege. About the time of the accession of the house 
of Stuart, the castle again became a royal residence, 
and it was the birthplace of James II. and James V., 
the latter of whom was crowned here. James VI. and 
his eldest son, Prince Henry, were baptized within its 
walls, and within the neighboring church of Grey- 
friars (now known as the East and West Churches), 
James VI. was crowned, in 1567, John Knox preach- 
ing the coronation sermon. In the same church, too, 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 61 

his unhappy mother was crowned at the tender age of 
eight months. The church was erected by James IV. 
in 1494, and the castle was that king's favorite resi- 
dence. The palace, which occupies the south-west 
part of the fortress, was erected by James V. The 
unfortunate Queen Mary was an inmate of the castle, 
and at the end of the garden is an aperture in the 
wall, called Queen Mary's Lookout, from whence that 
royal personage is said to have viewed the sports 
which took place on the. field below. Another look- 
out from the ramparts is dignified by the name of 
Victoria View, and commemorates a visit of the pres- 
ent Queen and the late Prince Consort to the spot in 
1842. 

The view from the ramparts is indescribably fine. 
The vale of Menteith, a plain of great fertility, 
stretches to the west, bounded by the Highland moun- 
tains, whose graceful peaks fringe the horizon. To 
the north and east are the Ochil Hills, and the pros- 
pect on the south is closed by the Campsie Hills. 
Directly below is the town, the river with its ancient 
bridges, one of which is supposed to have been built 
a thousand years ago, and the turf embankments of 
the King's Garden, still preserved in the form they 
existed centuries ago, an octagonal mound called the 
King's Knot, and said to mark the spot of the royal 
sports, occupying the centre. A little distance north 
of the castle is the Heading Hill, where, in 1424, the 



62 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Duke of Albany, with the Earl of Lennox, his father- 
in-law, and his two sons, was beheaded within sight 
of his own Castle of Doune. The turnpike road, like 
a gray thread, directs the eye to Cambuskenneth 
Abbey, the lofty Wallace Tower on Abbey Craig, 
which stands like a sentinel over the beautiful valley, 
and the Bridge of Allan. The eye wanders over 
inairy a battle-field, including the bloody Bannockburn, 
which lies two miles east of Stirling. One of the most 
interesting parts of the castle is the Douglas Room, 
which, with the very closet where James II. stabbed 
the Earl of Douglas, in 1452, is shown to visitors. 
This portion of the castle was damaged by fire in 
18,55, but has been restored. The Douglas Room has 
been made the receptacle of various relics, and in the 
collection may be seen one of the numerous pulpits of 
John Knox, the Reformer, and a clock which belonged 
to James YI. Stirling Castle is one of the four fort- 
resses of Scotland, kept in repair by the articles of 
the Union, and it is still maintained as a military sta- 
tion. 

Greyfriars Church is more interesting on account 
of its historical associations, than for any beauty es- 
pecially its own. Near it, however, is a cemetery 
with many beautiful monuments, one of which, of 
modern origin, is to the memory of the Virgin Mar- 
tyrs, two young women who suffered death by drown- 
ing in the Solway, May 11, 1685, during the persecu- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 63 

tions of that time. They were tied to stakes and 
drowned by the rising of the tide. James Guthrie, 
the martyr, one of the ministers of the church, who 
was beheaded in Edinburgh, is also buried here, and 
the cemetery also contains statues of Knox, Melville, 
Henderson, James Renwick, and others. 

Resuming the railway we proceeded to Edinburgh, 
36 miles distant, arriving at 9.30 o'clock, p. m., but 
so long are the summer days in this northern latitude 
that it was still" daylight. These long northern days 
are very favorable to sight-seeing, and at the same 
time quite detrimental to the interests of the gas com- 
panies. There are, indeed, in June and July, only a 
few hours of darkness. The approaches to Edin- 
burgh are through a rich and finely cultivated region, 
and luxuriant fields and gardens, fine country-seats, 
and neat, clean habitations of a humbler sort every- 
where abound. Every foot of land is tilled, and well 
tilled too ; and there is an air of neatness and thrift, 
even about the cottages of the railway-station people, 
that is refreshing. 

Flowers are seen everywhere, and at some of the 
stopping-places, the name of the station is spelled 
out in them on a convenient and sightly bank. All 
the buildings are of stone, and thus a village, town, 
or city, is made to look as if it were intended to 
stay. The contrast between a Scottish or English 
hamlet with its solid, substantial edifices, and one of 



64 A SUMMER JAUNT 

our American villages where the buildings are all of 
wood, is very marked. While coming through Lin- 
lithgow, 17 miles from Edinburgh, we had a momen- 
tary view of the ruins of the ancient royal palace, 
where Mary Queen of Scots was born into this world 
of trouble, in 1542. 

Mr. John M. Cook, of the firm of Messrs. Cook & 
Son, excursion agents, having met our party on its 
arrival at Greenock, and preceded us to Edinburgh, 
had all the hotel arrangements completed and awaiting 
our coming. The other half of the party had reached 
the city two hours in advance of us, but were com- 
pelled to forego the pleasure of the stop in Stirling 
we had enjoyed. Seven different hotels; viz., the 
Cockburn, Darling, Alexandra, Rutland, Clarendon, 
Crown, and Osborne, were taken possession of, and as 
several, if not all these houses displayed the American 
flag in honor of their guests, Prince's Street presented 
a gay, and, to some extent, a homelike appearance. 
We remained in Edinburgh from Wednesday evening 
until Friday morning, and the time was pretty 
thoroughly occupied in inspecting the historic edifices 
and ruins, the many beautiful monuments, the institu- 
tions of learning, the museums, and the picturesque 
surroundings of the charming city. Hours shoulc! 
have been clays ; but the visitors made themselves 
exceedingly busy, nearly monopolizing the driving 
facilities for the period of their stay. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 65 

Edinburgh, one of the most beautiful cities in all 
Europe, is most picturesquely situated, upon two 
ridges of hills, the more elevated of which is occupied 
by the castle and the old town. The elevation of 
Castle Hill is 383 feet. Between it and the new 
section of the city there existed, up to the middle of 
the last century, a morass or lake (it was known as 
the North Loch) ; but this has been drained, and now 
forms a line of beautiful gardens, along the north 
margin of which is the handsome, wide thoroughfare 
known as Prince's Street. At the east end a lofty 
bridge connects the two sections, and the Mound is 
another means of communication, about midway in 
the valley. It is here the Eoyal Institution and 
National Gallery are situated. Along the line of the 
ancient lake, in deep cuts or through tunnels, one of 
the latter lying directly beneath the National Gallery, 
the railway runs, thus gaining a central terminus, 
and at the same time being much below the level of 
the surrounding streets. Eailway crossings at grade 
are rarely met with in Great Britain, and the liability 
to accident is thus greatly reduced. The difference 
between the old and new sections of the city is very 
marked, in the character of both the buildings and 
the thoroughfares. In the old town, where, in the 
early days, the available space was very contracted, 
the streets are narrow, and are bordered by still 
narrower wynds or closes, while the houses, built to 



66 A SUMMER JAUNT 

a great extent upon the hillside, are very tall, in 
many instances extending, on one side at least, to the 
height of ten or a dozen stories. They build strong 
in the old country, else half of old Edinburgh would 
have toppled over many years ago. In the newer 
section of the city — and this has to some extent 
taken possession of the plains south of the castle as 
well as of the fields on the opposite side — the avenues 
are wide and regular, and the residences and business 
edifices are broad and commodious, though less lofty. 
Along the Prince's Gardens are several of the finest 
statues and monuments of Edinburgh, including the 
noble Scott [Memorial, an elaborate Gothic structure, 
two hundred feet and six inches in height, which con- 
tains a fine marble statue of the great poet and novel- 
ist, in a sitting posture (by Sir John Steell), and a 
great number of niches occupied by statuettes repre- 
senting his chief characters, and also other Scottish 
poets. The beautiful memorial was erected from a 
design by George M. Kemp, a self-taught young man, 
who unfortunately died before the creation of his 
fancy was put in full and enduring form. One of the 
most remarkable facts connected with this monument, 
to the American mind, is that its cost was only a trifle 
more than $75,000. The foundation-stone was laid 
in the year 1840 (the monument was finished in 
1844), and there was deposited a plate, bearing the 
following inscription, prepared by Lord Jeffrey : — 




THE SCOTT MEMORIAL, EDINBURGH. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. G7 

"This Graven Plate, deposited in the base of a votive 
building on the fifteenth day of August, in the year of Christ 
1840, and never likely to see the light again till the sur- 
rounding structures are crumbled to dust by the decay of 
time, or by human or elemental violence, ma}^ then testify 
to a distant posterity that his countrymen began on that day 
to raise an effigy and architectural monument to the mem- 
ory of Sir Walter Scott, Bart., whose admirable writings 
were then allowed to have given more delight and suggested 
better feeling to a large class of readers in every rank of 
society than those of any other author, with the exception 
of Shakespeare alone, and which were therefore thought 
likely to be remembered long after this act of gratitude on 
the part of the first generation of his admirers, should be 
forgotten. 

" He was born at Edinburgh 15th August, 1771 ; 

"And died at Abbotsford 21st September, 1832." 

Scott was born in a house, long since removed, 
which stood in what is now Chambers Street, at the 
head of the College Wyncl, and he subsequently lived 
for a long period at No. 39 North Castle Street, in 
the new town. 

Among the other statues along the line of Prince's 
Street are those of Professor John Wilson (Christopher 
North) ; Allan Ramsay, the Scottish pastoral poet ; 
David Livingstone, the explorer of Africa; and the 
Duke of Wellington. Among the other monuments 
in the new part of Edinburgh, aside from those on 
Calton Hill, which, properly speaking, is also in the 
modern-built section of the city, are the Albert Memo- 



68 A SUMMER JAUNT 

rial (an equestrian statue on an elaborately adorned 
pedestal), on Charlotte Square, and the column and 
statue one hundred and fifty feet high, erected to the 
memory of Lord Melville, on St. Andrew's Square. 

Calton Hill is a sightly elevation in the eastern part 
of the city, from whence a magnificent view is obtained 
of the city and the surrounding country. To the west 
are the frowning battlements of the castle, portions of 
the old and new towns, with the railways and gardens 
stretching between. On the south, and at but little 
distance, are Salisbury Craigs and Arthur's Seat, the 
latter of which is eight hundred and twenty-two feet 
high, while the historic Palace and Abbey of Holyrood 
are in the valley between Calton Hill and Salisbury 
Craigs, the Queen's Park stretching off to the left. In 
the distance, flanking Arthur's Seat, are the hills of 
Lammermoor. To the right, and over the main por- 
tion of the city, at a distance of a dozen miles or so, 
lie the Pentland Hills, the springs of which modern 
Edinburgh, or the " Modern Athens," as it is some- 
times called, has utilized for its water supply. Turn- 
ing the eye northward, it is seen that the city has 
spread its wings to the Firth of Forth, a broad arm of ' 
the sea, only two miles distant, along the margin of 
which, in either direction, are a dozen busy towns. 
The port of Leith is, in fact, a separate municipality, 
but it forms, geographically, a continuation of the 
larger city. Across the Firth are the shores of Fife- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 69 

shire, while further to the left are the rounded Ochil 
Hills, and the dim outlines of the more rugged High- 
lands. To the east is the open sea. Upon Calton 
Hill are several monumental edifices, and the Koyal 
Observatory. Nelson's Monument, the most promi- 
nent structure of all, is a tall and unsightly shaft. The 
top of the monument is now used for the display of 
the time-ball, which falls exactly at one o'clock, simul- 
taneously with the firing of a gun at the castle. Both 
operations are controlled by electricity from the Ob- 
servatory. Near the Nelson column stands the Nation- 
al Monument, an unfortunate attempt to imitate the 
Parthenon of Athens. It is not inaptly styled the Na- 
tional Folly. Only twelve columns for the west end 
of the edifice, which was intended to be of imposing 
proportions, have been erected, and the structure is 
not likely ever to be finished. The other monuments 
are in memory of Professor Play fair, and Dugald 
Stewart, who was Professor of Moral Philosophy in 
the University of Edinburgh from 1785 to 1820. A 
monument to Robert Burns is on the south-east side of 
Calton Hill, beyond the handsome high-school build- 
ing. Directly below the summit, in the view towards 
the castle, are the extensive group of castellated build- 
ings, within a high wall, forming the prison of Edin- 
burgh. 

On Thursday morning, Mr. John M. Cook assembled 
the members of our party on the grassy slope of Calton 



70 A SUMMER JAUNT 



I 



Hill, and made a brief address explanatory of his plans 
for our future movements. He also alluded to the 
fact that, forty years before, the Cooks had brought 
their first excursion party to the same city. 

After inspecting the monuments upon the hill, under 
the leadership of some of the city guides, and admir- 
ing the glorious view from the summit, we proceeded 
down the declivity to Holyrood Palace and Chapel, 
passing, on the way, a diminutive building in the old 
Palace Garden, which served Queen Mary as a bath- 
house. It was through this building the murderers of 
Eizzio escaped, after leaping from a window of the 
palace. 

The Palace of Holyrood was distinct from the abbey 
or monastery, and was founded by James IV. in 1501, 
the religious establishment having been established b}^ 
David I. in 1128. Tradition records that King David 
was hunting in the forest of Drumsheuch (now incor- 
porated in the west part of Edinburgh), when he was 
attacked by a stag that had been brought to bay. 
Koyalty was in great danger, when a mysterious cross 
was interposed between the defenceless monarch and 
the infuriated animal, and the latter fled in dismay. 
In grateful token the monarch founded and richly 
endowed the Church of the Holy Rood, giving it into 
the care of the canons of St. Augustine. The palace, 
much of which is of modern origin (from 1671 to 
1679, during the reign of Charles II.), is in a good 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 71 

state of preservation, but the ancient abbey is a mass 
of noble ruins. The latter structure was partly 
destroyed by Edward II. in 1322 ; burned by Eichard 
II. in 1385 ; restored by Abbot Crawford about the 
end of the fifteenth century ; again sacked by the Eng- 
lish in the succeeding century ; and rifled by a mob in 
1688. The palace also suffered frequent assaults. 
In 1544, at the time of the "rough wooing" of the 
infant Mary by the English, the palace, with the 
abbey, and all the rest of Edinburgh outside the 
castle walls, fell a prey to the flames. Both the palace 
and abbey soon recovered from the effects of this dis- 
aster ; and when, in 1561, Queen Mary landed from 
France as sovereign of Scotland in her own right, and 
youthful dowager of France, she was conducted to 
Holyrood. She selected for her private apartments 
those which occupied the north-western corner, on the 
third floor of what are known as James V.'s Towers 
(erected in 1528) ; and, fortunately, when the palace 
was subsequently despoiled by Cromwell's soldiers, 
this portion was saved from destruction. Holyrood is 
intimately associated with some of the most important 
events in the history of this most unfortunate queen. 
Here she reposed after her arrival from the gay land 
of France ; here she was married to Darnley ; here 
Rizzio was murdered ; here was the scene of her fatal 
nuptials with Bothwell ; and here she rested her 
troubled head on the eyentful night before she was 



72 A SUMMER JAUNT 

committed to the Castle of Locbleven. When James 
VI. inhabited the palace, it was more than once 
attacked, and once actually surprised by Bothwell in 
the course of his ambitious enterprises. Charles I. 
was crowned in the Chapel-royal on the 15th of June, 
1630. The south wing of the palace contains, to-day, 
the state apartments, and these have several times 
been occupied by the present royal family of England. 
The royal stables are opposite the palace, and these, 
too, are kept up at the present time. 

The northern, or historic portion of the palace, 
together with the Chapel-royal, are accessible to the 
public every day, except Sunday, after the hour of 
eleven, A. m. On Saturdays the admission is free, 
but on other days a sixpence is charged. The visitor 
is first conducted to the picture-gallery, a fine apart- 
ment, 150 feet in length, and 27 feet in width. On 
the walls are a hundred imaginary portraits of both 
fabulous and reputed kings of Scotland, all painted by 
a Flemish artist named DeTVitt, between 1684-86. 
There are three or four pictures of greater historic 
value, one of which represents James III., and Ijis son 
James IY., while, on the reverse, is the Holy Trinity. 
Lord Daroley's rooms are next shown. These contain 
a number of portraits, including one of Darnley him- 
self. Queen Mary's apartments possess the chief 
interest. These, as already described, are on the 
third floor. They comprise the audience-chamber, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 73 

the bed-chamber, the dressing-room, and the supper- 
room. From the bed-chamber, near the entrance to 
the last-mentioned apartment, a small door opens on 
the private staircase by which the assassins of Rizzio 
ascended to the royal apartments ; and the spot where 
the murdered Italian finally fell, at the head of a stair- 
case outside the audience-chamber, is pointed out. 
The visitor is even asked to believe that a discolora- 
tion of the pavement is the blood of the man murdered 
over three hundred years ago ; but this requires rather 
too ofreat a stretch of faith. Both the dressing-room 
and supper-room are diminutive apartments, scarcely 
more than ten feet square. The several chambers are 
hung with ancient tapestry, faded, moth-eaten, and 
worn, and the bed of the queen is also shown. In 
the audience-room, too, is shown the bed of Charles I. 
In the bed-chamber of Queen Mary are portraits of 
the unfortunate queen herself, of Henry VIII. , and of 
Queen Elizabeth. Another apartment to which the 
visitor is taken after • viewing Darnley's rooms, and 
before ascending to Queen Mary's chambers, is the 
Tapestry Eoom. This is in the part of the palace 
rebuilt by Charles II., and contains two large pieces of 
ancient tapestry, and some portraits. Of the Chapel- 
royal, nearly the whole of the west front, with its 
great tower and richly-carved doorway, is said to be a 
part of the original edifice. The most ancient portion, 
however, is thought to be a small Norman doorway, 



74 A SUMMER JAUNT 

now built up, at the back of the mass of masonry 
above the royal vault, and which originally communi- 
cated with the old cloisters of the abbey. It is 
thought to date back to 1150. 

Upon leaving Holyrood, the visitor's attention is 
attracted, if it has not been upon his entrance to the 
palace, by a curious fountain in the centre of the 
square. It is a copy of one which stands in a ruined 
state at Linlithgow, and is adorned with a great 
number of grotesque figures. It was erected by the 
late Prince Albert. 

From the palace, a fairly straight thoroughfare leads 
up the hill, through the heart of the old town, to the 
castle. The distance is about a mile, but different 
portions of the street bear no less than five different 
names, to wit : Canongate, the Netherbow, High 
Street, the Lawnmarket (Linenmarket) , and Castle 
Hill. Every foot of the way has historic or romantic 
interest. Near the foot of Canongate, approached 
through a court-yard, is the ancient White Horse Inn, 
one of the oldest hostelries in Edinburgh, but now a 
neglected tenement-house. It was here that Johnson 
was entertained on his visit to Edinburgh. Near this 
is the Abbey Court House and Sanctuary for Debtors. 
The Canongate Church, the Canongate Tolbooth, and 
Moray House, are other ancient and interesting 
edifices at the lower end of this thoroughfare. At the 
Netherbow, we came to the house of that sturdy old 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 75 

Reformer, John Knox, provided for him when he was 
elected minister of Edinburgh, in 1559, and in which 
he continued to reside until his death, in 1572. Upon 
the corner, near a window from which he is said to 
have preached to the populace, is a rude efligy of a 
minister in a pulpit, pointing to the name of God 
carved upon a stone above, in Greek, Latin, and Eng- 
lish. The house is open to the public on certain days, 
at an admission fee of sixpence. Just above, on the 
left, or south side, is the old Tron Church, and on the 
opposite side of the way, No. 177 High Street, is the 
cellar in which the Commissioners appointed to sign 
the Articles of Union, in 1707, secretly met and com- 
pleted their compact, an enraged mob having driven 
them from their first meeting-place at Moray House. 
At No. 155 was Allan Ramsay's book-shop. In this 
neighborhood are many of the ancient closes and 
wynds, some of which, though narrow and contracted, 
formerly held the abiding places of princes, cardinals, 
archbishops, bishops and peers. In Blackfriars 
Wynd, a narrow alley now modernized into Black- 
friars Street, dwelt the princely St. Clair, Earl of 
Orkney, whose dame was attended by " seventy-five 
gentlewomen, whereof fifty-three were daughters of 
noblemen, all clothed in velvets and silks, with their 
chains of gold." Up through this dismal pathway, at 
eleven o'clock, on the evening of the 10th of February, 
1567, her attendants going before with lighted torches, 



76 A SUMMER JAUNT 

passed Queen Mary, on her way home to Holyrood 
Palace from her last visit to the fated Darnley — - just 
three hours before his murder. Volumes, indeed, 
might be written about the history of each of these 
little alleys. At the Tron Church is seen the march 
of improvement, in the two modern bridges which 
ihave been thrown across the valleys, above the lower 
streets, on either side. 

Continuing up High Street, we reach St. Giles's 
Cathedral, a large Gothic edifice in the form of a cross, 
with a massive central square tower, which terminates 
in open stone-work fashioned like a colossal imperial 
crown. This tower forms a handsome and prominent 
object in nearly every view of the city. The original 
church is said to have been founded here early in the 
ninth century. In 1359 it was rebuilt, and in 1466 it 
contained no less than forty altars. After the Reforma- 
tion it was divided into four places of worship, in one 
of which John Knox preached. It was in the choir that 
the ludicrous incident occurred, in 1637, wdien Jenny 
Geddes threw her stool at the Dean of Edinburgh, on 
his commencing to read the new Episcopal service- 
book. The stool is preserved in the Antiquarian 
Museum. In 1643 the Solemn League and Covenant 
was sworn to and subscribed to within its walls. 
Much of the present edifice is comparatively modern, 
and it is now divided into three separate churches for 
the Presbyterian service. In one of these, at the 






THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 77 

time* of our visit, an organ of decidedly modern aspect 
was- being placed. Sixteen years before, Dr. Tourjee's 
inquiry after such a musical adjunct, had been met by 
the custodians A of the church with expressions of sur- 
prise that such an instrument should be looked for in 
such a place. Within a railing near one of the 
entrances, may be seen the shaft of the Old Cross of 
Edinburgh. The original cross, or pillar, stood in a 
spot now marked by a cross on the pavement opposite 
the door of the Police Chambers. The ancient custom 
of making public proclamations by heralds from this 
spot, is still continued on important occasions. In 
the rear of St. Giles's, the Parliament House and 
Law Courts are situated, and the intermediate space 
was originally the parish cemetery of St. Giles's 
Church. Many notable men were here interred, 
including John Knox, whose grave is indicated by a 
small flat stone near the equestrian statue of Charles 
II. The site of the old Tolbooth, or "The Heart ot 
Mid-Lothian," as the prison of Edinburgh was called 
(built in 1561 for the accommodation of parliament 
and the courts, as well as for the confinement of male- 
factors, and torn down in 1817), is shown by a heart 
of stone — a fitting symbol, in the pathway near one 
corner of the church. The great hall of the Parliament 
House is a lofty and handsome apartment. Since the 
time of the Union it has served as a hall for the practi- 
tioners in the courts, and it is adorned with statues 



78 A SUMMER JAUNT 

and portraits of eminent jurists. Nearly opposite St. 
Giles's is the Royal Exchange, a building occupied 
largely as offices in the administration of municipal 
affairs, and just above is the County Hall, built, like 
many other modern edifices in Edinburgh, after a 
Grecian model. 

At this latter point, George IV. Bridge turns 
southward across the little valley which becomes 
below, the narrow, dirty, forbidding street known as 
Cowgate, and farther on, below the castle, the Grass- 
market, which has been the scene of so many execu- 
tions. The bridge leads in the direction of the 
University, the new and old Greyfriars Churches, and 
Heriot's Hospital. This latter institution, with its 
numerous dependent free schools, is something of 
which Edinburgh has reason to feel proud ; while its 
celebrated university (founded in 1582), with its 
museum and library, is a source of national pride. In 
the churchyard of Greyfriars, rest many illustrious 
dead, and an innumerable company of Christian 
martyrs. In a desolate corner on the south side of the 
yard, about twelve hundred Covenanters, prisoners 
taken at Both well Bridge, were confined for the space 
of five months, and subjected to many cruelties. 

Continuing up through the Lawnmarket from High 
Street, Castle Hill and the Esplanade are soon reached. 
The latter is ornamented with a monument, in the 
form of a Runic cross, erected to the memory of the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 79 

officers and soldiers of the 78th Highlanders, who fell 
in India while aiding to suppress the Sepoy mutiny, 
and a bronze statue of the Duke of York, son of 
George III. 

We have now come to the most prominent and in- 
teresting object in the city — the ancient castle. Pre- 
cisely when this massive fortress was built is not 
known, but it is supposed to have been established by 
Edwin, a Northumbrian prince, in the early quarter of 
the seventh century. The Celtic name of the town 
was Dunedin, and it acquired its present title from the 
castle, which was Edwin's " brugh," or stronghold. 
Old legends say the Pictish kings used the castle as a 
place of safe-keeping for their daughters until the time 
of their marriage ; but might it not. rather have been 
the safe retreat of the knights from the wiles of the 
Scottish maidens? The present buildings of the 
fortress date back no further than the fifteenth century, 
with the exception of the little Norman chapel, built by 
the pious Queen Margaret, the Saxon wife of Malcolm 
Canmore, and mother of David I., who died within 
the castle in 1093. This edifice is very diminutive, 
measuring only 16 feet six inches by 10 feet six inches 
within the nave. After a long period of neglect it was 
restored in 1853, and adorned with three small stained- 
glass windows. In the year 1074, the castle was re- 
built by King Malcolm. In the oldeii time, Edinburgh 
Castle must have been a formidable fortress, surmount- 



80 A SUMMER JAUNT 

ing as it does a rock that was well-nigh impregnable 
in itself, and it is still maintained as a military estab- 
lishment ; but with the modern enginery of warfare 
at command, it would not long withstand a hostile 
attack. 

From the Esplanade, the castle is entered by a 
drawbridge, after passing the outer barrier. Beyond 
this is the guard-house, and farther up the ascent is the 
portcullis gate, over which is the old State Prison, 
where many noble captives have been held in duress. 
Still further on is the Armory, and at its back is the 
old sally-port, to which Viscount Dundee scrambled 
up to hold a conference with the Duke of Gordon, be- 
fore setting out for the North to raise the Highland 
clans in favor of I£ing James. The Governor's house 
and new barracks, erected in the time of Queen Anne, 
the latter quite bearing out the charge of Scott, that 
they resemble a cotton-mill, are passed before the cit- 
adel, or highest platform of the castle is reached. 
Here, the little barn-like structure, built for a chapel 
by Queen Margaret, meets the eye, and opposite, on 
the king's bastion, stands the famous old cannon, 
known as "Mons Meg," which is supposed to have 
been constructed about the year 1476, at Mons, in 
Belgium, and is known to have been used by James 
IV. at the "siege of Dumbarton in 1489, and again, at 
the siege of Norham Castle on the Borders, in 1497. 
It ended its career in 1682, when it burst during the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 81 

firing of a salute to the Duke of York. The view 
from this point is grand in the extreme. Turning 
westwards, the visitor passes into a quadrangle, the 
buildings on the south and east sides of which formed 
for centuries the royal palace and stronghold of the 
kings and queens of Scotland. The east side is 
where the royal apartments were located, and where a 
long line of sovereigns were born, lived and died. 
On the ground floor is Queen Mary's Room, where, on 
the 19th of June, 15G6, James VI. of Scotland, and 
afterwards James I. of England, were born ; and the 
window is shown from which the infant prince was let 
down in a basket. The Crown Room, wherein the 
regalia of Scotland is displayed, is on the same side of 
the quadrangle, but one flight higher. These "Hon- 
ours of Scotland," as the insignia were called, have an 
interesting history. After the union with England, 
they remained hidden, and it was not until 1818, when 
a commission, of which Sir Walter Scott was a mem- 
ber, discovered them in an old oaken chest, in which 
they had rested, in a walied-up part of the castle 110 
years. The regalia consists of a crown, supposed to 
have been originally worn by Robert the Bruce in the 
fourteenth century, adorned with diamonds, rubies, and 
other precious gems ; the sceptre, ascribed to James 
V. ; the Lord High Treasurer's mace of office ; and 
the sword of state presented to James IY. by Pope 
Julius II. The arched embellishment of the crown 



82 A SUMMER JAUNT 

was added by James V. in 1536. Some other jewels 
arc also exhibited, including a golden collar of the 
Order of the Garter, presented by Queen Elizabeth to 
King James VI. of Scotland, the badge of the same 
Order, which also belonged to James VI., the corona- 
tion ring of Charles I., and the St. Andrew jewel, 
which has on one side the image of the patron saint, 
finely cut in onyx and set around with diamonds, and 
on the other the badge of the thistle, with a secret 
opening, beneath which is a fine miniature of Anne of 
Denmark, Queen, of James VI. 

On descending from the castle, some of us paid a 
visit, necessarily hurried because the closjng hour was 
approaching, to the Antiquarian Museum and National 
Gallery. The former contains a large and interesting 
collection of antiquities, both foreign and British, 
including early sculptured stones, arms, ornaments, 
implements of torture, &c. Here may be seen the 
"Maiden," an old Scottish guillotine, by which the 
Regent Morton and many others were beheaded ; all 
the variations of " thumbikins," or thumb-screws, an 
instrument of torture much used against the Cove- 
nanters ; the " branks," an ingenious contrivance for 
punishing scolding women; Jenny Geddes's stool; 
John Knox's pulpit, from St. Giles's Church ; Rob 
Roy's Highland purse-clasps, with pistols ingeniously 
concealed, with a view to prevent filching ; and 
hundreds of other interesting relics. In the National 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD . 83 

Gallery are some fine paintings, chiefly the works of 
modern Scottish artists, although some foreign pic- 
tures, including a few productions of the old masters, 
have been added. There is a fine marble statue of 
Robert Burns, by John Flaxman, and several wax 
models by Michael Angelo. 

The beautiful " Queen's Drive " around Salisbury 
Craigs and Arthur's Seat enticed nearly every mem- 
ber of our party, and some scrambled to the top of 
the latter elevation, to gain the magnificent view. 
On the shoulder of the hill, overlooking Holyrood, 
are the ruins of St. Anthony's Chapel, which be- 
longed to the cell of a hermit, and beneath is St. 
Anthony's Well. An old Scottish song declares — 

"Now Arthur's Seat shall he my hed, 
Saint Anton's Well shall he my drink, 
Since my true love 's forsaken me." 

The ride through the southern section of the city 
brought into near view some of the fine university 
buildings, including the Museum of Science and Art, 
which, unfortunately, there was no time to inspect. 
In company with Dr. Tourjee, however, I paid a most 
interesting, visit to one department of the University ; 
viz., the School of the Theory of Music. This institu- 
tion was founded February 13, 1858, through a liberal 
endowment from the late John Reid. The chair of 
music is filled by a distinguished musician and com- 



84 A SUMMER JAUNT 

poser, Sir Herbert Oakeley. We did not have the 
pleasure of meeting this gentleman, as he was absent 
from the city, but we were kindly shown through the 
various rooms. To Dr. Tourjee the school was not 
new, as he had received instruction there in its earliest 
da} T s. Session-time is from November until April, 
and the number of students is usually about two hun- 
dred. The class-room is a large apartment, which 
contains, in addition to elaborate and costly acoustic 
apparatus, a magnificent organ, built by Hill & Son 
of London. Here Sir Herbert gives frequent recitals 
to the students. In another apartment is a large 
collection of musical instruments, both ancient and 
contemporaneous. The whole arrangement of the 
rooms seems to be precisely what is needed in a col- 
lege of music, the best feature of all being the superb 
organ. The founder of the school, Mr. Reid, left 
behind him a composition which he desired to have 
performed once a year. This request is rigidly ad- 
hered to, and a "Reid Concert" is given annually. 
The parent University was founded in 1582, and has 
given to the world some of its greatest scholars and 
philosophers. 

In the vicinity of the University, a section of the 
city that has been much improved of late years, may 
be seen a fountain and monument surmounted by the 
ima^e of a dosr. This commemorates an instance of 
canine fidelity worth relating. Years ago an old sol- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 85 

dier died and was buried in the churchyard of Grey- 
friars. His dog followed his deceased master to the 
spot and lay down upon the grave. For three suc- 
cessive days he was driven away, but his devotion 
was so deep that he returned, and finally the keeper 
permitted him to keep his sad and lonely vigil 
undisturbed. For twelve years and five months the 
faithful animal watched by his master's side, and his 
ward then ceased only on account of death. The 
monument was erected at the expense of a citizen of 
Edinburgh. 

The environs of Edinburgh are very beautiful, and 
among the places of especial interest to strangers are 
Koslin Chapel and Castle, and Hawthornden, which 
was the residence of the poet Drummond. 

Our party received much attention while in Edin- 
burgh. An invitation was extended to its members 
to attend the Koyal Blind Asylum and School Exhibi- 
tion, at West Craigmillar Park, but on account of our 
short stay this had to be declined. Thursday evening 
there was an interesting gathering in the Odd Fellows' 
Hall, in compliance with the following invitation : — 

Sabbath-School Teachers' Union. — On the 10th of 
July, some 250 American tourists will arrive in Edinburgh. 
As their leader, Dr. Tonrjce, Director of the New England 
Conservatory of Music, of Boston, has kindly arranged that 
several of them shall give addresses on Sabbath-school work, 
a meeting of those interested in such work will be held on 



8Q A SUMMEK JAUNT 

Thursday, 11th of July, at 8, p. m., in the Odd Fellows' 
Hall; Duncan M'Laren, Jun., Esq.,*in the Chair. 
Mr. Sneddon and his choir will aid in the singing. 

The meeting was in fact a reception of those mem- 
bers of the American party who were engaged while 
at home in Sabbath-school work, either as pastors or 
teachers, and there was quite a large attendance of 
such, together w T ith a general assemblage of the Sab- 
bath-School Teachers' Union of the Presbyterian 
churches of Edinburgh. The convenient length of 
summer days in this northern country has already 
been mentioned. The phenomenon was strikingly 
illustrated on this occasion. Although the hall is by 
no means well lighted in the ordinary way by win- 
dows, it was past nine o'clock before it was deemed 
necessary to turn up the gas. 

The meeting was opened with prayer by Rev. John 
Young, M. A., pastor of the Newington United Pres- 
byterian Church, and Mr. M'Laren, the president of 
the occasion, then delivered the following excellent 
address : — 

Christian Friends and Fellow Teachers, — I assume that 
all here are teachers, that none have come from curiosity or 
other doubtful motive, but from a warm interest in the work 
of Sunda} T -school teaching. I feel much gratified at being 
called on to preside at a meeting of Suncla3 T -school teachers, 
because, while connected with a great many societies and 
boards for various purposes, there is no work to which I 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 87 

have given more, I may say none to which I have given so 
much attention, as Sunday-school teaching ; and there is no 
place where I feel so much at home, as in a Sunday School, 
or in the company of Sundaj^-school teachers. Our work 
is humble and unobtrusive, by the world often altogether 
unnoticed and unknown, and yet I know of no work likely 
to be fraught with greater results, for on us, to a very 
considerable degree, depend the characters of the future 
men and women of our land, our aim being to instil into 
their minds such principles as shall enable them worthily to 
discharge their duties as citizens here, and fit them hereafter 
*to dwell in that far more enduring, far more desirable city, 
" whose builder and whose maker is God." 

I feel specially gratified at being asked to preside this 
evening, and have the privilege of introducing to you, hon- 
ored brethren from the other side of the Atlantic. These 
brethren have come for a holiday ; they have visited our 
city for the purpose of acquainting themselves with its 
beauties, and the many interesting associations which con- 
nect it with the past. But in place of devoting their whole 
time to seeing the attractions which our "own romantic 
town " so abundantly presents to tourists, our friends have 
generously agreed to spend a portion of their limited time 
in benefiting our citizens, b} T giving us their experiences of 
Snnda3 T -school teaching. 

There was a time, and not far distant, when citizens of 
one country would never have thought of enlightening the 
inhabitants of another land, when no relationship was rec- 
ognized between different states, unless one of enmity and 
jealously. Happily the more enlightened Christianity now 
taught, and the more frequent and eas} r means of inter- 
course between nations, have, to a large extent, broken- 
down those walls of partition that hitherto divided them ; and 



88 A SUMMER JAUNT 

■ 

I trust the rivalry between nations in future will not be as 
to who can gain advantage over another by sheer force or 
subtle stratagem, but who can do most to promote the wel- 
fare of all mankind. From most civilized countries we can 
learn something, and it should be our object to learn from 
each nation that which she is best able to teach us. I have 
no doubt our friends here will learn something in this land, 
and also on the Continent of Europe, whither they are going, 
which thc3 T can carry back with them and make use of in 
their own homes. And if they can learn something from 
us, there is much, very much, we can learn from them. 
There is no department in which they can teach us more, * 
than in that of Sunday Schools, whether we look at their 
perfection of system, their enthusiastic zeal in teaching, or 
the great results they achieve. In all these points they pre- 
eminently excel. 

I do not know if it would be possible for our Edinburgh 
Union to organize a party equal in numbers to that which 
is now visiting our cit} r , and like them charter a vessel to 
cross the Atlantic, a party in which every Sunday School in 
town should have one or more representatives. If it could 
be done, and a month were devoted to visiting the schools 
of the United States, the benefit resulting to our cit3 r would 
be incalculable. I fear, however, that our Sunday-School 
Union is not sufficiently enterprising ; and so if we do not 
visit America, the next best thing for us is to listen to what 
our American friends have come here to tell us. 

Their ideas and ways differ from ours, and I ask 3*011 not 
onl} T to listen to their statements, but when 3*011 go home 
carefully to consider and weigh their plans with those 3*011 
have been accustomed to follow. Do not reject ai^-thing 
simply because it is novel. Do not not be alarmed because 
it is opposed to old-fashioned ideas. The Apostles were 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 89 

surprised to find the Master's teaching so different from that 
of the Rabbis ; so one da}^ they told him so, and that the 
Pharisees were offended. What was the Master's answer? 
" Evety plant which my Heavenly Father hath not planted 
shall be rooted up." Those plants $ those doctrines, those 
s}' stems which are merely of human origin, which have 
nothing divine in them, cannot endure; they " shall be 
rooted up." But God's laws are plants of life, which shall 
abide for ever ; the way appointed by Him, the plans in 
harmony with His will, cannot be overthrown. Let us then 
sift and examine our systems and modes of working ; what 
is merely our own let us be willing to drop, but that which 
is divine let us ever " hold fast." 

It will be unpardonable in me to detain you by any 
lengthy remarks of mine. I hasten, therefore, to introduce 
to you these honored brethren and fellow laborers, who, 
though we see them this evening for the first time, we do 
not regard as strangers, but "esteem them very highly in 
love for their work's sake." 

Mr. John K. Bncklyn, of Mystic Bridge, Conn., 
principal of a well-known educational institution, and 
an efficient Sabbath-school worker, was the first of the 
Americans to speak. He related how work in the 
Sabbath School was carried on in his community, and 
spoke of the means employed to engage the interest 
and attention of both young and old, referring espe- 
cially, in this connection, to the Sabbath-school con- 
cert, an institution so well known and appreciated in 
America. 

Rev. Dr. Blythe, secretary of the Union, remarked 



90 A SUMMER JAUNT 

that the Sabbath-school concert was new to them, and 
expressed the wish that the other speakers might tell 
of the methods of work pursued in American schools. 

Rev. J. Thorburn, of Ottawa, Canada, spoke of 
the normal school, and of the needs of a pure and 
elevated Sunday-school literature, and before closing 
his remarks, expressed the hope that an excursion of 
teachers to America, such as the chairman had sug- 
gested, might be carried out ; in which case he trusted 
they would not overlook Canada. 

Mr. O. B. Bruce, of Binghamton, N. Y., began a 
genial speech by addressing his hearers as "brither 
Scots," and this token of his origin was received with 
much favor. He explained that he was not himself a 
native of Scotland, but could claim that honor for his 
father. He said if the warmth and greatness of heart 
that existed in the old country were known on the 
other side of the ocean, the maps would be recon- 
structed, and certain countries would appear thereon 
upon an enlarged scale. He then proceeded to speak 
of Sunday Schools, calling attention more especially 
to the field presented for work among the lower 
classes. 

Rev. N. B. Fisk, of Marlborough, Mass., made a 
short address upon the general topic of the evening. 
In opening his remarks he said that although he could 
not claim the honor of Scotch descent, as could his 
brother Bruce, he could say the next best thing : he 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 91 

had made a Scotch woman his wife, and he most 
cordially advised his young American friends to fol- 
low his example. 

Dr. Tourjee was next introduced, and in a brief 
address called attention to music as an important 
agent in the church and Sabbath School. The truths 
of the Bible could be sung into the hearts of the 
young in tender, touching melodies, better than they 
could be carried there in any other way. The sing- 
ing of children should be made a part of the service 
in the church. Music was a universal language, and 
the power of song was great. In closing his remarks, 
Dr. Tourjee referred to the happiness that had been 
afforded to the members of his party and himself by 
the day's experiences, and by the pleasant meeting 
then in progress. 

The closing address of the evening was delivered 
by Thomas Eobertson, Esq., of Edinburgh, who said 
he arose to re-echo the welcome that had been ex- 
tended by the chairman. The Sabbath-school move- 
ment in America reached a magnitude far in advance 
of what could be seen in Scotland. He spoke of a 
recent visit paid to the United States, and of the great 
pleasure he had experienced in visiting some of the 
Sabbath Schools there, and in becoming acquainted 
with some of their methods of operation. The speak- 
ers who had enlightened the meeting during the even- 
ing, in such a whole-souled way, regarding their 



92 A SUMMER JAUNT 

methods of work, were worthy of thanks. Pie there- 
fore moved a vote of thanks to all who had spoken, 
and the same was adopted. 

The addresses were interspersed with some very 
fine singing by the choir of the Lauriston Place 
United Presbyterian Church, under the direction of 
Mr. John Sneddon. The sacred selections sung com- 
prised the following : — 
• 

" Psalm 72 (old metrical version) : — 

* His large and great dominion shall from sea to sea extend.' 

—Tune, 'Effingham.' 

" Hymn 309 (United Presbyterian Hymnal) :— ' 
' We plough the fields and scatter the good seed on the land.' 

" Hymn 233, by Henry Smart :— 

' Hark, hark my soul.' 

" Hymn 303, by Herbert Oakeley :— 

' Sun of my soul, thou Saviour dear ' 

" Sentence : — 

1 Our soul waiteth for the Lord.' " 

At the suggestion of Rev. Dr. Ely the, Mr. Sneddon 
and his excellent choir added two purely Scotch songs, 
which were charmingly sung, and warmly appreciated 
by the guests. These were, "My Dear Hicland Lad- 
die O," by Tannahill, and an old air, entitled, " Saw 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. . 93 

ye Johnnie coinin'." " The Angel of Hope," by Eeich- 
ardt, was also finely sung. 

The American party was early astir Friday morn- 
ing, and after a "plain breakfast," repaired by rail to 
Melrose, where, before entering upon an inspection of 
the famous old abbey, we were provided with another 
and more substantial repast, at the George and Abbots- 
ford Inn, one of the three principal public-houses of 
that place. Our ride was over what is known as the 
i Waverley Eoute," one of the lines of the North Brit- 
ish Railway. The distance from Edinburgh to Melrose 
is, to be precise, 37J- miles, and the country through 
which the- traveller passes, is rich both in natural scen- 
ery and in historical associations. We were approach- 
ing the beautiful home of Sir Walter Scott, his last 
resting-place, and the spots most revered by the great 
novelist. This northern enchanter has invested the 
beautiful border-land with romantic interest, and never 
did a region of equal extent supply -more history and 
tradition for such a pen. The route is, for a little way, 
along the river Esk, and its chief tributary, and for a 
longer distance along the Gala Water, until the latter 
stream unites with the river Tweed, near Abbotsford. 
The Moorfort Hills lie upon the west, and the long 
line of Lammermoo*r Hills upon the east. The whole 
course is lined with ancient castles, some mere masses 
of ivy-decked ruins, and others still preserved as the 
homes of noblemen and wealthy land-holders. On 



94 A SUMMER JAUNT 

leaving Edinburgh, the traveller passes under a spur 
of Calton Hill, by means of a tunnel, and soon after 
gains a last view of Holyrood, with the rugged Salis- 
bury Craigs as a background. Portobello is a pretty 
suburb situated on the shores of the Firth of Forth ; 
just beyond is Craigmillar Castle, once the abode of 
Mary Queen of Scots. At Dalkeith is the palace and 
extensive park of the Duke of Buccleuch. Near Dal- 
housie Station, are Newbattle Abbey, and the scat of 
the Marquis of Lothian. The approach to the Moor- 
fort Hills is very picturesque. On the right is Borth- 
wick Castle, and on the left, the remains of Crichton 
Castle. The former (built in 1430) formed a retreat 
for Queen Mary and Both well, and when the barons 
under Morton invested the place, the queen escaped 
in male attire, disguised as a page. The castle was 
partly destroyed by Cromwell in 1650. JNear Gore- 
bridge, are observed the ruins of Newbyres Castle ; 
near here, too, are the remains of a Roman camp. 
Just beyond Stow, are the ruins of Ewe Castle, on the 
right, and Gunzion and the Castle of Torsonce, on the 
left. Nennius informs us that at the Castle Gunzion, 
King Arthur defeated the Pagans, carrying on his 
shoulder a cross made at Jerusalem, after the likeness 
of the true Cross. Galashiels is a manufacturing place 
much given to the production of " Scotch tweeds," and 
" Gala tartans." All this and much more is seen in 
the hour's ride. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 05 

Melrose Abbey is by the side of the railway, and 
but a short distance from the station. Sir Walter 
Scott wrote, — 

" If thou wouldst view fair Melrose aright, 
Go visit it by the pale moonlight." 

This we did not do, but we saw it under the favor- 
ing circumstances of a bright, sunny summer morning, 
when all nature seemed beautiful, and when the shade 
of the crumbling and ivy-clad wails invited the stroller, 
and led him almost as well to dreams of the past, when 
the beautiful Gothic Jpile was peopled by hooded 
monks. The abbey is one of the most perfect, as well 
as most beautiful, relics of Gothic magnificence in 
church building. Founded in 1136 by David I., and 
dedicated to the Virgin, it was colonized by Cistercian 
monks. The other abbey buildings being razed, the 
church alone remains. This is two hundred and fifty- 
eight feet long, extending east and west, and one hun- 
dred and thirty-seven feet wide. The carvings and 
mouldings about the doorways and great windows are 
of great delicacy and beauty, and it may be easily 
ascertained that even the parts hidden from view are 
wrought with equal fineness, — a state of things which 
is quite at variance with the American style of con- 
struction, which generally seeks only to produce a fair 
exterior. Images and heads of stone, some reared in 
pious veneration, and others of a grotesque kind, such 



96 A SUMMER JAUNT 

as were common ornaments of palaces and abbeys in 
the olden time, are seen on every side ; some of the 
statues are without arms, and others arc lacking heads. 
In a gracefully-canopied niche, over the principal en- 
trance, formerly stood a figure 'of the Saviour. Time 
has wrought less change in the grand old pile, and in 
the details of its ornamentation, than the violence of 
man. The English plundered the edifice in 1321, and 
it was four years after restored by King Robert the 
Bruce. Richard II. burned it in 1384. Sir Ralph 
Evers and Sir Bryan Latoun plundered it in 1545 ; and 
in the course of the same year the Earl of Hertford, 
who had come to Scotland upon the " rough wooing," 
by command of Henry VIII., followed their ex- 
ample. At the time of the Reformation it was pillaged 
once more ; and then Cromwell battered it with can- 
non from Gattonside, which lies just across the river 
Tweed. In one place, high upon the wall, are statues 
of St. Andrew, and the Madonna and Child. The 
head of the infant is demolished. Morton, in his 
"Monastic Annals of Teviotdale," says: "Tradition 
reports that when the person who was employed to de- 
stroy the statues in the building (1649) was striking 
at this image, a piece of it fell and hurt his arm, which 
was disabled ever afterwards." " Superstition," he 
adds, "proved here, though rather late, an antidote to 
blind zeal, and to this circumstance is probably owing 
the preservation of the few statues that are left in the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 97 

sixty-eight niches still remaining in the different parts 
of this highly-finished edifice." Among the grotesque 
carvings are many quaint heads, and in one place a 
sow playing on a bagpipe, which may be taken as a 
piece of severe sarcasm on the national music. In 
allusion to the magnificent eastern window, whose 
delicate and beautiful tracery is yet preserved, Sir 
Walter Scott says, in the "Lay of the Last Min- 
strel":— 

"Thou wouldst have thought some fairy's hand 
'Twixt poplars straight the osier wand 
In many a freakish knot had twined ; 
Then framed a spell when the work was done, 
And changed the willow wreath to stone." 

One of the best views of the ruins is had from the 
neighboring churchyard, where many an hour might 
be spent in scanning the old monuments to the dead, 
although more ancient burial-places are found within 
the abbey. Alexander II., one of the greatest of the 
early Scottish kings, was buried beside the high altar 
in 1248. Many of the mighty Douglases lie buried 
here, and the heart of Robert the Bruce was deposited 
in this place, after the attempt of Sir James of Doug- 
las to carry it to the Holy Land. The king's body 
had been interred at Dunfermline. The grave of 
Michael Scott, the famed " Wizard of the North," is 
pointed out, but it is doubtful whether he lies buried 
here or at Home Coltrame in Cumberland. It is 



98 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Michael Scott who stands credited with the clefts in 
the neighboring Eildon Hills, which lift their triform 
tops gracefully above the town. The remains of Sir 
David Brewster are buried just outside the abbey 
wall. Among the curious epitaphs in the churchyard, 
the following, singularly appropriate in such a place, 
is worth transcribing : — 

" The earth goeth The earth builds 

on the earth on the earth 

Glistring like gold. Castles and towers ; 

The earth goes The earth says 

to the earth to the earth 

Sooner than it wold ; All shall be ours." 

The mode of life of the monks found much con- 
demnation at the time of the Reformation, and there 
were many satires written thereon. Sir Walter Scott 
has preserved the following extract from one of 
these : — 

" The monks of Melrose made fat kail 
On Fridays when they fasted ; 
And neither wanted beer nor ale, 
As long as their neighbours' lasted." 

On leaving Melrose Abbey we took carriages for 
Abbotsford. One-half the party had already pre- 
ceded us there, and they now took our places at the 
abbey. The ride was delightful, and the visit to the 
charming spot selected by Sir Walter Scott as his 
home during his later years, was more delightful still. 






THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 99 

The house, pleasantly situated on the banks of the 
• Tweed, environed by beautiful gardens, lawns, and 
shrubbery, remains almost wholly as the great poet 
and novelist left it. The contents of several of the 
rooms are exactly the same as when their great owner 
breathed his last, September 21, 1832. Abbotsford 
has been denominated a " poem in lime and mortar," 
and with good reason. Not only is its situation full 
of beauty and poetical suggestiveness, but the im- 
press of the poet's hand is left on all around — in the 
arrangement and adornment of the house, and in the 
tasteful and romantic surroundings. It was a "fitting 
seat for a great poet, and one that he himself had 
wholly planned. There is scarcely a tree that does 
not owe its existence to his planting. The Abbots- 
ford property principally extends southward, includ- 
ing within its bounds Cauldshields Loch, a sheet of 
water from whence emanates a rivulet running through 
the Ehymer's Glen, the traditionary rendezvous of 
True Thomas of Ercildoune with his elfin love, the 
Fairy Queen. The walls of the edifice are largely 
made up of quaint and curious fragments, many of 
them from castles, abbeys, and historic sites, all woven 
into a picturesque mass of masonry. 

The present proprietor, who married into the Scott 
family and then changed his name to that of Scott, 
keeps the house, or a portion of it, open as a sort of 
museum, and thither go thousands of pilgrims every 



100 A SUMMER JAUNT 

year. The rooms accessible to strangers are the hall, 
study, drawing-room, library, armory, dining-room, 
and a little closet-like apartment leading from his study, 
where Sir Walter is said to have found a quiet retreat 
when troublesome visitors appeared. The library is 
in several of these rooms, and comprises some 20,000 
volumes. The lower ranges of shelves are covered by 
wire network to prevent the books from being handled, 
and perchance pilfered. An attempt was made, some 
years ago, to steal some valuable relics contained in a 
glass case. The walls, not covered by books or pic- 
tures,* are adorned with ancient weapons and other 
relics. Among the more remarkable objects seen 
upon the walls, or elsewhere, are the following: A 
large sword found on Bosworth field ; a Koman camp- 
kettle ; a huge war-horn from Hermitage Castle ; Rob 
Boy's gun ; the sword presented to Montrose by 
Charles I. ; a cross of pearl which belonged to Mary 
Queen of Scots ; the pistol of Grahame of Claver- 
house ; the spurs of Oliver Cromwell ; the hunting- 
flask of James VI. ; pistols, a portfolio, and a half-used 
stick of sealing-wax found in Napoleon's carriage after 
the battle of Waterloo; "thumbikins," and other 
implements of torture ; the iron mask worn by Wis- 
hart, the martyr, at the stake, to prevent him from ad- 
dressing the people ; relics from the old " Tolbooth " 
in Edinburgh ; and a silver urn presented to Sir Wal- 
ter by Lord Byron. The skull of Bruce is also said 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 101 

to be kept here, but is not now shown to visitors. 
Locked within a glass case are the clothes worn by Sir 
Walter just previous to his death ; and even his walk- 
ing-slick and forest accoutrements are also preserved. 
Among the many pictures are family portraits of the 
Scotts, including one of Sir Walter's ancestor, 
"Beardie," who suffered his beard to grow neglected, 
in token of his sympathy for the broken fortunes of 
the Stuarts, and another, by Sir William Allan, of Sir 
Walter's eldest son as an officer of the 18th Hussars ; 
Amias Camrood's painting of the head of Queen Mary 
on a charger, the day after her execution ; full length 
portraits of Essex, Oliver Cromwell, Claverhouse, 
Charles II., John Dryden (by Sir Peter Lely), &c. 
There is also a bust of Scott by Chantrey, which is 
said to bear a remarkable likeness to the original, and 
a copy of the Stratford bust of Shakespeare. Even 
the furniture possesses historical value, for an ebony 
writing-desk was the gift of George III., an antique 
drawing-room set, in ebony, the gift of George IV., 
and some elbow-chairs the gift of one of the popes. 

Sir Walter is not buried here, nor at Melrose, but 
in Dryburgh Abbey, which is ^.vg miles south-east of 
Melrose. 

Returning by carriage from Abbotsford to Melrose, 
we once more took the railway, and sped on towards 
London, still on the line of the " Waverley Route." 
This took us through Hawick, a manufacturing town, 



102 A SUMMER JAUNT 

situated on the river Teviot, and near which is Brank- 
some Tower, celebrated in Scott's " Lay of the Last 
Minstrel," Biccarton, and some other unimportant 
places, before we passed through the Cheviot Hills, 
and into England, in the direction of Carlisle. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD . 103 



CHAPTER HI. 

ENGLAND. 

Entering England — By Special Train to London — The Midland 
Railway and the Midland Country — European Railways and 
their Peculiarities — The Approach to the Great Metropolis — 
The Midland Grand Hotel — Seeing London — The Metropolis 
and its Immensity — How London has Overgrown its Ancient 
Limits — The Busiest Spot in the Whole World — Means of 
Travel in the Great City — The Metropolitan Railway and the 
Hansom Cabs — The Houses of Parliament and their Adornment 
— Westminster Hall — Westminster Abbey — Whitehall — Char- 
ing Cross — Trafalgar Square and its Monuments — The National 
Gallery — The Strand — Temple Bar — The Temple, &c. 

The thoughtful American, upon entering England, 
or any part of Great Britain, cannot but feel something 
akin to native pride, for in spite of present national 
distinctions, broadened, too, by three thousand miles 
of ocean, there is a common ancestry to look back 
upon, besides a common language which also makes us 
kin. Not that he forgets his own loved land, but he 
is brought into communion with institutions under 
which his fathers lived, and to scenes w T hich they 
loved. In the presence of towns, palaces, and castles 
built many centuries ago, and with the constantly re- 
curring records of the long past, it seems but a span 
back to the day when a handful of Englishmen set sail 



104 A SUMMER JAUNT 






for that distant shore to found a new nation. The 
history of England has extended over so great a period, 
and has been so prolific of great events and of great 
results, that the little land, not as large territorially as 
many of our single States — the islands of Great Britain 
and Ireland altogether being of less area than some of 
them — stretches by an illusion, as Emerson tersely 
puts it, to the dimensions of an empire. 

Without weeks, months, and years at our command, 
it could hardly be expected that our explorations would 
reach to every interesting place — indeed, to more than 
a few of the many ; but we made good use of our 
time. "Yes," says Emerson, "to see England well 
needs a hundred years ; for what they told me was the 
merit of Sir John Soane's Museum in London — that it 
was well packed and well saved — is the merit of 
England ; it is stuffed full, in all corners and crevices, 
with towns, towers, churches, villas, palaces, hospitals, 
and charity-houses. In the history of art, it is a long 
way from a cromleeh to York Minster ; yet all the 
intermediate steps may still be traced in this all-pre- 
serving island." 

As already intimated, we crossed the Scottish bor- 
der near Carlisle. This is a very ancient city, having 
been originally occupied by the Britons, and after- 
wards by the Romans. Under the name of Luguval- 
lum, it was one of the chief stations on Hadrian's 
Wall. King Arthur is said to have held his court 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 



105 



here. Carlisle Castle is said to have been built by 
William Rufus. The place suffered much in the early 
wars, and also in the Civil War, when it espoused the 
cause of Charles I. It is a city of something over 
thirty thousand inhabitants, and is not only an impor- 
tant manufacturing place, but also a great railway 
centre. We here joined the Midland Railway, on 
which we continued through to London. This line ex- 
tends not only from London to Liverpool, but also to 
Scotland, the cars running over portions of other rail- 
ways both to Edinburgh and Glasgow, above Carlisle. 
It was on the Midland system that we had come 
through from Edinburgh, and a special express train 
was furnished by that corporation for the Tourjee 
party, as will be seen by the following official notice 
and time-table : — 

Midland Railway. 

Time-Table of Special Express Train with Passengers conveyed from 
New York to Glasgow by Steamsliij) " Devonia," under the manage- 
ment of Messrs. Cook, Son, Sr Jenkins, from Edinburgh (Waverley 
Station) to London (St. Pancras Station), Friday, July 12th, 1878. 

Edinburgh, . dep. 7 30 a. m. 



Melrose, 
Carlisle, . 

u 

Sldpton, . 

.t 

Leeds, 
Nornianton, 

a 

Chesterfield, 
Trent, . . 

u 

Leicester, 



arr. « 30 " 

dep. 12 30 p. m. 

arr. 2 " 

dep. 2 10 " 

arr. 4 5" 

dep. 4 10 " 

pass 4 47 " 

arr. 5 " 

dep. 5 30 " 

pass 6 22 " 



6 53 

7 



arr. 
dep. 

arr. 7 26 
dep. 7 31 



For Melrose Abbey and Abbots- 
ford. 



Station for Bolton Abbey. 
Junction for Manchester. 



Dine in New Dining-Hall. 

Centre of Derbyshire Coal-Fields 
— Curious Church Spire. 

Junction for Nottingham. 

Trent College on the right, ap- 
proaching Station. 



106 



A SUMMEU JAUNT 



Kettering, . pass 8 6 p. m. 



Bedford, 



St. Albans, 
London, . 



arr. 
dep. 



pass 



8 36 
8 39 



9 17 
9 45 



Derby, July, 1878. 



Baptist mission founded hereby 
William Carey, a century ago. 

"Pilgrim's Progress," written in 
Bedford Gaol — "Bunyan Mon- 
ument, recently erected — 
Shortly after leaving Bedford 
pass Elstow, Bunyan's birth- 
place, on right. 

The Ancient Abbey of St. Al- 
bans to the right of Line. 



James Allport, General Manager. 



The distance from Edinburgh to London is 404 
miles, and the time-table contemplated only six stops 
after leaving Carlisle, or eight altogether, including 
the four hours' halt at Melrose, the others aggregating 
just one hour additional. This would leave nine 
hours and fifteen minutes for the running time. The 
schedule was pretty closely adhered to, only one 
additional stop being made ; but we did not reach our 
destination until about half an hour after the ap- 
pointed time. Certainly not a very serious hindrance. 

During the ride we had an opportunity to study 
the English railway methods to a considerable extent, 
and our subsequent journeyings enabled us to com- 
pare them somewhat with those of several of the 
continental countries, as well as with our own. The 
Midland is a well-managed road, and its provisions 
for the comfort and safety of its passengers seem to 
be of the best. Our train was made up of thirteen 
first-class carriages, all of the compartment kind, and 
there was ample room for the entire party without 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 107 

crowding, so that the journey was made very com- 
fortably. The shape and arrangement of the foreign 
cars quickly strike the attention of an American trav- 
eller. Everything is entirely different, except that 
on some of the roads — the Midland was the first to 
adopt them — American Pullman cars are to be seen. 
The Old Colony and Fall Eiver line runs some of the 
English style of coaches between Boston and New- 
port, so that at home we are not wholly unfamiliar 
with the foreign style of cars. All the early Ameri- 
can cars were built somewhat after this pattern. 
The entrance is from either side, and a car is divided 
into compartments, the vehicle being made to look 
like a series of amalgamated coach-bodies. Abroad 
a single car will sometimes contain first, second, and 
third-class compartments, and others will be made up 
wholly of one class. On the English roads, and on 
many of the continental roads, -the traveller is locked 
in, and cannot get out until he is let out by the guard 
or a porter. On some of the German roads, and on 
one or two of the English roads also, the door is 
secured by an extra latch, easily reached by the pas- 
senger ; but is not locked. In such cases the traveller 
is informed of the fact by a notice conspicuously 
posted within the car, and at the same time warned 
against the dangers thus likely to arise. Should he 
attempt to enter or leave a carriage while the train is 
in motion, or by any means except by the door on the 



108 A SUMMER JAUNT 

platform side, he is made liable to a penalty. There 
are inconveniences attaching to the European style of 
cars ; but one thing may be said of them, and of the 
modes of governing the railways generally — that the 
safety of the passengers is much better looked after 
than in America. On some of the Swiss roads there 
are cars open at the ends, like our American cars, but 
the interior is arranged differently, though with a due 
regard to comfort. There is a series of compartments 
opening into each other, generally with two seats on 
one side and one on the other, the aisle running 
between. Some of the compartments on the German 
roads will hold a dozen persons, and have seats 
arranged on all sides, with a table in the centre, and 
two doors on either side. There are similar com- 
partments on some of the English trains, and they 
are, of course, very comfortable and convenient for 
families or parties. Most of the compartment car- 
riages, however, have a double row of seats facing 
each other, so that half the occupants are compelled 
to ride backwards. The practised traveller abroad 
chooses the front seat, and rides backwards, thus 
escaping the draft and cinders. There are sometimes 
only six seats in a compartment ; but generally eight, 
and sometimes ten. The second-class carriages gen- 
erally seat the latter number, but the upholstering is 
in leather instead of cloth, and less expensive than in 
the first-class carriages, where there is always an 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 109 

abundance of room, and luxurious appointments. 
The third class is plainer than either, and more 
crowded. There is upon some lines a fourth class, 
and upon some of the continental railways the accom- 
modations vouchsafed under that head are little better 
than our cattle-cars. As a general thing the Euro- 
pean railway carriages are exceedingly comfortable, 
but a source of great discomfort and complaint is 
found in the fact that the cars are very seldom pro- 
vided with the conveniences invariably found in Amer- 
ican cars. The frequent stops made by the trains are 
supposed to meet this defect, but even then the trav- 
eller must in most cases await the motions of the 
guard in order to get out. 

The American traveller quickly learns that it is the 
invariable custom abroad to travel with as little luggage 
as possible ; and here, let me remark, that "baggage" 
always becomes "luggage," the former term never 
being heard in Great Britain except from Yankee lips. 
There is generally much perplexity in the care of 
luggage, this arising chiefly from the lack of the 
checking system, which forms such a great source of 
convenience with us in America, and in some measure 
from the annoyance attending its care and the cost of 
transportation. Of portmanteaus, satchels, bundles 
in shawl straps, and small packages generally, one 
sees plenty, and commodious racks are supplied in all 
the cars for their reception ; but trunks are compara- 



110 A SUMMER JAUNT 

tively few. Those huge structures of the " Saratoga " 
pattern, which form an especial object of hatred and 
revenge on the part of the American baggage-smasher, 
would prove veritable elephants abroad. Every piece 
of luggage too heavy for the passenger to convey in 
his own hands is " lifted " at the station by a porter, 
never by the cabman, who, indeed, does not leave his 
seat. The same service is performed at the hotel, and 
must be paid for accordingly. At the station, before 
the departure of the train, the heavy packages are 
weighed, and all extra weight be} r ond the regular limit 
is charged for. The trunk, package, or whatever it 
may be, is properly labelled and then placed by the 
porter in the luggage-van. On alighting it must be 
claimed personally, and another porter must be feed 
to carry it to the waiting cab. In certain countries, 
the transportation of all luggage must be paid for by 
weight, and the general limit, except in Great Britain, 
is only fifty-six pounds for each person. There is a 
registering system in vogue, which is something akin 
to our checking system, but it is not nearly as com- 
prehensive, nor a hundredth part as convenient. 
Upon the payment of a small fee the traveller receives 
a receipt, and under its provisions the railway officials 
take full care of the luggage until it reaches its desti- 
nation. This is a source of great convenience, in 
default of something better, especially in travelling 
to or from the Continent, where detentions of ordi- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. Ill 

nary luggage at the custom-houses frequently occur, 
and are sources of much annoyance. But of all 
these intricate details the members of the Tourjee 
party had no opportunity of gaining intimate knowl- 
edge, except by observation and inquiry, for in actual 
experience there was nothing of the kind. All details 
regarding the moving and transportation of luggage, 
as well as all matters pertaining to the "booking" and 
carrying of the traveller himself, were carefully looked 
after, or provided for, by the conductors of the party. 
And here let it be said, there is no such thing as a 
ticket-office on the line of a British railway ; it is a 
booking-office. 

The locomotives, no less than the cars, have their 
peculiarities, and these are quite striking. They are 
smaller than American railway engines, the engine- 
men have little protection from the -weather, and in 
place of the great flaring smoke-stack and a super- 
abundance of steam- whistle, there is a small, straight 
cylinder for the one, and an exceedingly limited sup- 
ply of the other. The whistles arc not as loud, nor 
are they used as much. Their signals are sounded in 
short, quick notes, and the unearthly shrieks so com- 
mon to American roads, both in city and country, are 
unknown. There is less reason to give warning notes 
than with us, for there are few roads crossed at grade, 
and walking on the railway tracks is wholly prohib- 
ited. Even the crossing of the tracks in a large 



112 A SUMMER JAUNT 

station is not permitted, except by an elevated way or 
an underground passage. The whole business of run- 
ning trains is managed much more quietly than with 
us. When a train arrives in a station, there is but 
little noise comparatively, and when one leaves but 
little warning is given. The passenger is supposed to 
be in his place, and the guard sees that the door is 
shut. When the time arrives the train moves out, 
generally without any previous .intimation whatever. 
In some parts of Germany the departure of trains is 
controlled by gongs, or bells, which arc struck by means 
of electricity from some central point ; and in various 
parts of the Continent the guard gives the signal by a 
blast on a horn, or by ringing a small bell. In Ger- 
many, by the way, the locomotives resemble the 
American machines more than elsewhere, unless it be 
in Russia. The mode of coupling cars, and the ilse 
of a peculiar spring "buffer," renders the train less 
liable to jolting or jarring than is the case with the 
heavy American cars. The whole train starts at the 
same moment, and is stopped at once, the different 
carriages being drawn closely together, and made, in 
fact, one continuous vehicle. There is sometimes 
considerable rolling motion to the cars, when they are 
running at high rates of speed, but very high rates of 
speed are never reached, except on some of the Eng- 
lish roads, and there only in the case of particular 
trains, which rush along at the rate of forty, forty- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 113 

five, and even fifty miles an hour. The "Flying 
Dutchman," on the London and North- Western line, 
is one of these rapid trains. The French, Italian, 
German, Dutch, and especially the Swiss lines, run 
their trains at a much slower rate, twenty-five miles 
an hour being a high rate of speed, while many 
of the trains do not exceed fifteen. On our run 
down to London we did some rapid travelling, 
the train once or twice attaining a rate of sixty 
miles an hour. In one instance we ran a distance of 
eighty-three miles without stopping. On the English 
roads, generally, persons may accompany their friends 
to the platform, or meet them there, but in other 
European countries they can get no further than the 
waiting-rooms, of which there are different grades for 
the different classes. In such stations, and indeed 
almost everywhere, the passengers cannot gain access 
to the cars until within a few moments before the 
departure of the train. 

There are many features an American traveller 
misses on the European railway trains ; and chief 
among them are the peanut and candy boys, and the 
book-venders. It is an open question whether all the 
inconveniences experienced are not fully compensated 
for by their absence. The passenger can doze away in 
his corner without the responsibility of balancing upon 
his knees a small pyramid of books, magazines, illus- 
trated newspapers, and packages of prize-confection- 



114 A SUMMER JAUNT 

ery. If he desires a supply of literature of any kind, 
in the form of newspapers, guide-books, or something 
of a more substantial sort, he can obtain it readily 
enough at the inevitable book-stall in any of the large 
stations through which he passes ; and well-appointed 
and cheap restaurants are quite as prevalent. In many 
places there are different restaurants for the different 
classes of passengers, the real distinction being that a 
sandwich or a glass of beer costs less when handed 
over a deal counter than across a slab of polished 
marble. The bar is a fixture at every restaurant, and 
throughout Great Britain the attendants in this branch 
of the establishment are almost invariably women. 
The "barmaid" is a British institution, to which the 
traveller soon becomes accustomed, whether he is in- 
clined to become a practitioner at the " bar " or not, 
inasmuch as the drinking is carried on openly, and 
without the least effort at concealment. The bar- 
maids, at the railway stations at least, have a general 
appearance of modesty as well as of neatness, and they 
are doubtless selected, in most instances, with some 
view to personal beauty and attractiveness. Their 
appearance and behavior are certainly of a much better 
sort than their calling would seem to induce. In 
Great Britain, not only ale but great quantities of the 
fiercer spirits are consumed ; but on the Continent very 
little is sold in the way of beverages, except beer and 
light wines. The former has even obtained a strong 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 115 

foothold ill France, where it is known, not under its 
German generic title, but as Boc. At some places on 
the continental roads light refreshments and wines are 
brought to the car windows. 

The foreign railway carriages tend to keep travellers 
much, more exclusive than the American railway cars, 
wherein fifty or seventy-five passengers are thrown 
together in one apartment, and this plan is suited to 
the English idea of travelling much better than ours. 
Caste draws its lines pretty rigidly in the Old Country, 
and the Englishman does not " mix " as his American 
cousin is wont to do. He might ride facing you for a 
clay without showing the slightest sign of curiosity re- 
garding you or yours, or without showing, by any 
outward token, that he is even aware of your presence, 
unless it chances that you are encroaching upon his 
personal rights, fancied or real. Your entrance in a 
carriage, which a little party has hoped to keep all to 
itself, is very likely to provoke scowls and repellant 
looks ; but pretty much the same spirit is shown with 
us, where a passenger seeks to monopolize adjacent 
seats by filling them with packages or shawls, and 
then committing the extra fraud of telling every fresh 
comer that the "other" person is coming back soon. 
This little game does not work as well on the English 
trains, for the passengers cannot absent themselves 
from their proper places while the train is in motion. 
No pleasanter way to travel in parties can be devised 



116 A SUMMER JAUNT 

than is provided for by the foreign railway system. 
"Where the traveller is thrust into a little compartment 
with utter strangers the case is different decidedly, but 
where all are friends or acquaintances the journey may 
be made all the more delightful because of the com- 
parative exclusivencss. On the Midland road, at 
least, four first-class passengers can secure a compart- 
ment to themselves upon advanced application to the 
proper officials, or a family or party of seven or more 
may secure a family carriage, such as we have else- 
where described, and which is provided with lava- 
tories, &c. Invalid carriages are also provided at a 
minimum charge of four first-class fares. 

But of our journey. Our route extended through 
the central portion of Cumberland, of which Carlisle 
is the capital or county-seat, and Westmoreland ; 
thence through the West Riding of Yorkshire, which 
includes the great manufacturing districts around Leeds 
and Sheffield ; and afterwards through Leicestershire, 
across Northampton, and through Bedfordshire, and 
Hertfordshire into Middlesex, within the borders of 
which London is partly situated. The country through 
which we passed is generally under a high state of cul- 
tivation, although certain sections, principally in West- 
moreland and north-western Yorkshire, are made up of 
mountains and barren moors. In the mining districts, 
too, there are bare patches ; but nearly everywhere the 
country presents the closely tilled and utilized appear- 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 117 

ance seen in America only in proximity to the largest 
cities, where land is clear. The crops were plentiful, 
and in England vegetables of all kinds abound. Some 
sections of the country through which we rode are cel- 
ebrated for sheep-raising, although the famous South- 
downs come from an entirely different part of the 
island. Many flocks of fine sheep were seen grazing 
on the hillsides and moors. We crossed or ran beside 
many rivers, some of which have found praise in the 
exalted songs of poets ; but many of these little 
streams, with their quiet pastoral beauty, are neglected 
by the American, who intends to measure everything 
he sees by what he has left behind him, and who dis- 
misses with contempt every rivulet because it is not a 
Mississippi, — or at least a Hudson or a Connecticut, — 
and every cascade because it is not a Niagara. 

Skipton was the first important place that was 
reached ; and this is of little account to the traveller, 
except as the junction for Liverpool and Manchester, 
on coming over the Midland line from the north. A 
little further down the Aire is the great manufacturing 
city of Leeds, smoky and grimy like our Pittsburgh ; 
a few miles distant is Bradford, another important 
manufacturing place. Normanton is a place of little 
importance, aside from its railway connections; but it 
will be gratefully remembered by our party for an 
excellent dinner, which was served in the spacious 
dining-room of the handsome new station belonging to 



118 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the Midland company. Three hundred and fifty rail- 
way trains pass through Normanton daily. Sheffield 
was left a little to the west ; but our nearness to a great 
manufacturing centre was readily shown by the well- 
laden goods trains, and the smoke. Chesterfield is in 
the middle of the Derbyshire coal-producing district, 
but the chief peculiarity in its appearance is a remark- 
able twisted church spire, 230 feet in height, which 
belongs to an edifice dating back to the thirteenth cen- 
tury. Not far from Clay Cross is Hardwick Hall, 
where Queen Mary was for some time imprisoned. 
Trent (119^ miles from London, upon the river of the 
same name), is the junction place of the other portion 
of the Midland Kailway system, which runs through 
Derby and Matlock to Liverpool, and also of a line 
running to Nottingham and Lincoln. The handsome 
buildings of Trent College are seen on approaching 
the station. The ancient town of Leicester, which was 
a populous Saxon city at the time of the Conquest, is 
the next place of importance. Some traces of the 
ancient walls are said to exist, and several fine Roman 
pavements have been discovered. Richard III., 
after his death on Bosworth Field, was buried here, 
and Cardinal TV r olsey died here in 1530. The manu- 
facturing interests of Leicester are largely centred in 
the making of hosiery. The famous " Stilton " cheese 
is manufactured in Leicestershire. Market-Harbor- 
ough is a well-known market town on the Wellan d 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 119 

River. Charles I. had his headquarters here previous 
to the battle of Naseby. Near Rushton, which is a 
small station near Kettering, the conspirators in the 
Gunpowder Plot are said to have met. Kettering is a 
market town, and a railway leads thence to Cambridge. 
It was already night, and when Bedford was reached 
we could see but little except its lights. It was in 
Bedford jail that Bunyan wrote his "Pilgrim's Pro- 
gress," and in the neighboring village of Elstow he 
was born, in 1628. A handsome monument to Bunyan 
has lately been erected in Bedford. St. Albans, like 
Bedford, was in dark shadow, and we had to take it 
for granted that the ruins of the ancient abbey could 
have been seen by daylight. 

The approach to London is indicated by the greater 
frequency of the villages, which flash upon us through 
the darkness as we rush by, through, over or under 
them. Soon long, regular lines of gas-lights appear, 
and soon, after another plunge of a mile, through Bel- 
size Tunnel, we roll into the enormous St. Pancras 
station,* the train-shed alone of which is 700 feet long, 
243 feet wide, spanned by a single arch, and 100 feet 
high. 

Up to this point our entire party had travelled 
together, except during the tour of the Scottish lakes, 
where it had been necessary to divide it into two 
sections. A further and more permanent division 
now took place, the first and fifth sections being 



120 A SUMMER JAUNT 

assigned to the Midland Grand Hotel, the second and 
third to the Inns of Court Hotel (High Holborn and 
Lincoln's Inn Fields), and the fourth to the Terminus 
Hotel (adjoining the London, Brighton, and South 
Coast Bailway station). To reach the Midland Grand, 
where about one hundred of us were assigned, re- 
quired a walk from the railway platform, where we 
alighted, to one extremity of the station, the hotel, a 
huge Gothic edifice of red brick, having been erected 
by the railway company in connection with their ter- 
minus. Nearly all the railways running into London 
have hotels at their terminal stations ; an arrangement 
which proves of great convenience to the traveller 
who intends to make only a brief halt in the metropo- 
lis and does not care to look up quieter and less 
expensive lodgings. The Midland is the chief of 
these great railway caravansaries, and was built at an 
enormous cost. It is seven or eight stories high, the 
lower ranges of apartments being extremely high 
studded, and presents an imposing front along Euston 
Itoad and when approached from the direction of 
King's Cross, a high clock-tower adding to it propor- 
tions at one end. There are upwards of four hundred 
bed-rooms ; but the house is on too vast a scale to be 
altogether comfortable, although it is well conducted, 
as such things go. 

Our survey of London did not begin until the mor- 
row, Saturday, July 13 ; and then, it is but fair to 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 121 

say, the American visitors made themselves exceed- 
ingly busy. It was not expected that the vast city 
could be thoroughly inspected in the time allotted to 
our stay. London is a world in itself, and many 
months might be passed merely in a cursory view of 
its streets, its parks, its museums, and other public 
institutions ; its churches, its palaces, its monu- 
ments, and its many, many places of historic or 
storied interest. London covers an area of 122 
square miles, and its population is fully four millions. 
It is said to contain over 7,400 streets, which, if lying 
end to end, would extend 2,600 miles. Its 528,794 
buildings include 1,100 churches, 7,500 public houses, 
1,700 coffee-houses, and 500 hotels and inns. The 
Metropolitan Police District, which extends from 
twelve to fifteen miles in every direction from Charing 
Cross, embraces an area of 698 square miles, with 
6,600 miles of streets and roads. Regarding the 
cosmopolitan character of the great city, some idea 
may be formed when it is known that it contains more 
Scotch residents than Edinburgh, more Irish than 
Dublin, more Welsh than Cardiff, more Jews than 
Palestine, and more Roman Catholics than Rome. 
The visitor to London may not, at first, be struck by 
its immensity. He lands in one of its great railway 
stations, perchance at night, and is whirled away in a 
cab to his hotel, and only sees the bustling world 
around him ; but when he extends his observations, 



122 A SUMMER JAUNT 






journeying for hours in any direction, to find himself 
still environed by the same crowded and busy city, 
the truth dawns upon him irresistibly. Let him 
mount to the lantern of St. Paul's, and, if the day be 
not exceptionally clear, he fails to discern the outer 
verge of the thickly populated district. The murky 
atmosphere, which continually hangs like a pall over 
the great city, independent of the much-talked-of 
London fog, has, of course, much to do with this cir- 
cumscribed range of vision ; yet the eye may sweep a 
vact expanse of territory. Close at hand — so close, 
in fact, between London and Blackfriars bridges, that 
the minute water craft may be scanned — is the river 
Thames, whose sinuous course seems to divide this 
labyrinth in nearly equal parts, although, in truth, the 
larger part of the thickly populated district lies upon 
the north bank. Here and there the eye rests upon 
the great parks, which seem like oases in the bound- 
less human desert, but over on the other side 
of these cheerful patches of green, stretch away 
into the dun-tinted obscurity, farther conglomerated 
masses of buildings. In addition to The City — the 
ancient London, and now its great business centre — 
and Westminster, which was formerly another place 
altogether, London contains eight parliamentary bor- 
oughs, while sixty outlying villages have, in the 
course of time, become constituent parts of the great 
metropolis. The City maintains a separate corporate 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 123 

existence, and within its borders the Lord Mayor 
holds sway. The resident population of The City is 
comparatively small, inasmuch as its territory is 
chiefly occupied for business purposes. Its western 
border extends only to the site of Temple Bar, and 
Southampton Buildings, while London Tower is just 
without its eastern limit, the boundary line being 
Bishopgate Without, Petticoat Lane, Aiclgate, and 
the Minories. The Thames washes the southern 
border, and the northern boundary line extends along 
Holborn, Smithfield, Barbican, and Finsbury Circus. 
This is a small area compared with the present ex- 
panse of the metropolis, but it contains St. Paul's, 
the Bank of England, the General Post-Office, the 
Custom-House, and the great commercial mai'kets of 
the world. It is said that three-quarters of a million 
of business men enter the city in the morning and 
leave it in the evening for their suburban residences. 
At night, the population of the city proper dwindles 
down to less than 75,000 ; and the number is annually 
growing less, as business structures crowd out the few 
remaining habitations. The scarcity of actual resi- 
dents becomes apparent on Sunday, when it is possible 
to walk through street after street without meeting a 
solitary human being, where a few hours before there 
were visible unceasing tides of busy, struggling 
humanity. Within the walls of the ancient city were 
more than one hundred parishes, but modern improve- 



124 A SUMMER JAUNT 

merits have caused some very odd changes in the old 
ecclesiastical divisions. The whole of one parish was 
absorbed by what is now an open space in front of the 
Royal Exchange ; another was entirely obliterated by 
the Post-Office Building ; still another was swept away 
by the opening of Holborn Viaduct ; and a railway 
station and two houses occupy the former limits of 
a fourth. In the churches that remain, the parish- 
ioners are few, but the increased value of prop- 
erty has largely added to the worth of the livings, 
so that clergymen are easily found to take them in 
charge. 

The busiest place in the whole world, during busi- 
ness hours, is doubtless the open space in front of the 
Royal Exchange. In the vicinity are the Bank of 
England and the Mansion House (the official residence 
of the Lord Mayor during his term of office), the 
Stock Exchange, Lombard Street, and many of the 
great commercial headquarters, in addition to the 
Royal Exchange. Into this vortex eight thorough- 
fares pour endless streams of humanity. In a single 
thoroughfare, Cannon Street, twelve thousand vehicles 
pass in twelve hours, and the only reason that the 
number is not greater is that the street is only thirty- 
six feet wide. At London Bridge, where the road- 
way is forty-one feet wide, from sixteen thousand to 
twenty thousand vehicles, and one hundred thousand 
pedestrians, pass daily ; and through Bishopgate 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 125 

Street, only twenty-two feet wide, pass eight thou- 
sand or more vehicles. 

What is called the great fire of London, broke out 
in a baker's shop in Pudding Lane, about one o'clock 
Sunday morning, September 2, 1666. It raged furi- 
ously until the afternoon of Wednesday, September 5. 
In all, three hundred and ninety-six acres were burned 
over ; fifteen of the twenty-six wards of the city were 
swept clean, and eight others were partially destroyed ; 
four hundred streets were swept out of existence, and 
thirteen thousand two hundred dwellings, eighty-nine 
churches, four of the city gates, together with a great 
number of costly private and public edifices, were 
destroyed. The spires and domes of the churches 
rebuilt after the fire are painted black, and some idea 
of the extent of the burned territory may be formed 
by viewing these dingy reminders of the great calam- 
ity from St. Paul's, or from the Monument, a shaft 
two hundred and two feet in height, which was erected 
in commemoration of the fire, very near the place 
where the conflagration broke out. The dome and 
spires of St. Paul's bear the same significant token 
that the present noble edifice arose on the ashes of an 
older structure. 

The " West End " of London, which is the fashion- 
able quarter of the metropolis, contains the club- 
houses, most of the palaces and town residences of 
the nobility and gentry, and most of the places of 



126 A SUMMER JAUNT 

amusement. The "East End" includes miles of 
docks. Below London Bridge all the heavy shipping- 
lies, and in addition to the river-front, there are vast 
docks which contain thousands of ships. As already 
intimated, "The City" is the only portion of London 
that has what may strictly be called municipal rights. 
The rest of the vast territory is divided into thirty- 
nine districts, each of which has a separate and dis- 
tinct administration. Each has its separate vestry 
and poor-law systems, its special taxes, and its own 
arrangements for courts, for militia, for gas, for water, 
&c. There is no central bureau for anything except 
police administration, for which special purpose a 
Metropolitan District was created. The Board of 
Works is a national commission. There has been of 
late years a growing desire for a consolidation of all 
these divided interests into one vast whole, with an 
equal division of municipal advantages, and this result 
is likely to be brought about at no distant day. With 
all the chances for corruption and mal-administration 
such a centralization of power might open, the London 
tax-payer would unquestionably be directly benefited 
by the change. A grand City Hall, to be erected at 
the Blackfriars end of the Thames Embankment, on 
land now owned by " The City," is already talked of, 
and the " City " authorities have signified to the Home 
Secretary their willingness to co-operate in any move- 
ment which shall tend to decrease taxation. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 127 

A very curious phenomenon connected with Lon- 
don, and tending to show its greatness as a city, was 
noted many years ago. It was discovered that vege- 
tation was earlier, by from ten to fourteen days, on 
the west and south-west sides of the city, than else- 
where. This arose from the fact that the severity of 
the north and north-east winds is mitigated by the 
fires in the city. Another curious fact was also 
shown; viz., that in the winter season the tempera- 
ture at night was higher than in the day, when the 
solar rays were intercepted by smoke. 

"What London will eventually become," wrote 
Frederick Ross, in the "London City Press," a few 
years ago, "it is idle to predict. It already stands in 
four counties, and is striding onward to a fifth (Herts). 
The probability is that by the end of the century the 
population will exceed five millions, and will thus have 
quintupled itself in the century. Should it progress 
at an equal rate in the next, it will, in the year two 
thousand, amount to the enormous aor^resrate of twen- 

Co O 

ty-five millions ; and the question that naturally arises 
is, How could such a multitude be supplied with food? 
But the fact is, that the more its population increases 
the better they are fed. In the Plantagenet days, 
when the population was not a third of a million, fam- 
ines were of frequent occurrence ; but now, with the 
command of the pastures, the harvests, and the fisher- 
ies of the world, starvation becomes an almost impos- 



128 A SUMMER JAUNT 

sible eventuality, even with twenty-five millions of 
mouths to feed." 

No other city in the world — not even Paris, with its 
grand system of omnibuses and tramways — possesses 
such varied and extensive means of intercommunica- 
tion as London. Steam is used not only on the river 
to propel the numberless little ferry-boats, by which a 
person may journey from one point to another at the 
cost of a few pennies (for certain distances for a single 
penny), but also on the Metropolitan railways, which, 
for the most part, burrow underground. There are 
fourteen chief terminal stations at which the great rail- 
way lines running to various parts of the country enter 
the metropolis, and most of these external lines are 
intercepted or approached by the Metropolitan system, 
which forms a more important artery of intramural traffic 
than any of the means of communication found on the 
surface. The "inner circle" forms an almost com- 
plete belt around the whole of the inner part of Lon- 
don, and various spurs, or branch lines, diverge to the 
outlying districts. There are numerous stations, for 
the lines traverse the most populous districts, and 
over a million passengers are carried every week, at an 
average rate of about twopence per journey. These 
lines run chiefly under the streets or houses by means 
of tunnels, but, in places, through cuttings between 
high walls. Between Blackfriars and Westminster the 
cars run beneath the Thames Embankment. Taking 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 129 

all the railway lines together, there are in London 
more than one hundred and fifty stations. Through one 
of its junctions (Clapham) seven hundred trains run 
daily. On the Metropolitan Railway, trains are run 
every three or five miuutes, so that passengers have 
no need to study a time-table, but merely descend 
from the street-level at one of the numerous stations, 
and await the coming of the next train, unless some 
important connection is desired, in which case ample 
information is given on placards, or in time-tables and 
railway guides. Riding on the "Underground" is by 
no means an unpleasant sensation. There are three 
classes of carriages, as on other railways, with graded 
prices, and in all cases the cost of a journey is very 
cheap., The locomotives consume their own smoke 
and cinders, so that little inconvenience is experienced 
on that score. The tickets are collected, not in or at 
the train, but at a gateway on the passage out. The 
same rigid regulations are applied here as on other 
lines, to prevent crossing the tracks, and the passenger 
is compelled to descend on the side he is to enter the 
train, his ticket being scanned and punched as he de- 
scends the stairs on his way to the cars. " Stealing a 
ride " is thus rendered an impossibility. At one or 
two points different underground railways are found at 
different levels, but the subterranean lines are chiefly 
on the same level. 

Besides the railwnys, subterranean and otherwise, 



130 A SUMMEJR, JAUNT 

there are many thousands of tram-cars, omnibuses and 
cabs traversing the streets. The tram-cars are what 
are termed in America horse-cars, and of these there 
are several lines, chiefly in the outlying districts, or 
leading therefrom. The English were slow to adopt 
this Yankee invention, and the present lines have come 
into being for the most part since 1870. The cars dif- 
fer from the American pattern somewhat, but are com- 
fortable, while their use is economical. The omnibuses, 
of which there are lines running to all parts of Lon- 
don from the important centres like the Bank, Charing 
Cross, &c, are also very convenient. There are, alto- 
gether, over one hundred lines, which cross the metrop- 
olis in every direction, and there is no better or 
cheaper way for the stranger to see London than to 
fake a ride, or a series of them, by the 'bus, as the 
vehicle is familiarly known. Gentlemen have an advan- 
tage over ladies in this, inasmuch as they can avail 
themselves of the top seats, which afford an unob- 
structed view ; while a seat near the driver, or at the 
rear end on the side the conductor or guard takes his 
position, is found preferable, as those officials are gen- 
erally very communicative. The London Omnibus 
Company, which runs the principal lines, keeps in 
activity from eight o'clock in the morning until mid- 
night, nearly 600 vehicles, and annually carries over 
fifty millions of passengers. The cabs are of two 
kinds, the "four-wheeler" and the "Hansom," and arc 



TIIEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 131 

very numerous. The cab-drivers number upwards of 
ten thousand. There are " stands " at every important 
point, but it is seldom that it becomes necessary to go 
to them, as a cabman may be signalled from the edge- 
stone almost anywhere. The "four-wheelers" are 
small and uncomfortable, although intended for four 
passengers inside, while a fifth can ride beside the 
driver. The "Hansoms," which take their name from 
the inventor, are intended for two persons, besides the 
driver, who sits in an elevated seat at the rear of the 
vehicle. They resemble the old-fashioned American 
chaise, except that the body of the vehicle is much 
lower, and the driver's seat projects behind. The view 
in front is unobstructed, and communication is had 
with the driver through a little trap-door in the roof. 
In front, a wooden guard or "boot" may be closed for 
protection against mud or storm. These two-wheelers 
arc driven about much more easily and rapidly than 
the "four-wheelers," and for persons who are unen- 
cumbered by luggage are- very convenient, as well as 
exceedingly comfortable. Fares are reckoned by dis- 
tance, unless the cab is expressly hired by time, and 
the charge for a drive of two miles or under is only 
one shilling, a sixpence being charged for each addi- 
tional mile or fraction of a mile. A "tip" to the 
driver may be expected in addition, but is not obli- 
gatory. The fare covers the expense for two persons. 
" Cabby " never alights to assist his passengers in or 



132 A SUMMER JAUNT 

out, and it is always well to have the exact amount of 
money required, and generally to have a definite under- 
standing as to what the amount should be. In cases 
of misunderstanding, however, the dispute may be 
settled at the nearest police office, and the driver is 
compelled to take his passenger there if commanded to 
do so. The "Fly" is an open vehicle resembling the 
Parisian voiture de remise, and is best adapted to 
driving in the parks or in the country. They must, as 
a general thing, be ordered from a livery-stable, and 
the charges for their use are somewhat higher than for 
the cabs. 

Enough has been shown, I think, to demonstrate 
that the stranger may get # about London readily 
enough, and very cheaply. 

There are several objects in the metropolis which 
every stranger visits. These are Westminster Abbey, 
St. Paul's, the Tower, and the British Museum. Few 
depart without visiting the South Kensington Museum 
and the Albert Memorial (certainly none should do so) , 
and there are hundreds of other interesting places 
which may be seen incidentally or in special excursions. 
The Houses of Parliament may be included in the visit 
to Westminster Abbey, on Saturday only, as that is 
the only day in the week those buildings are thrown 
open to the public ; and then, even, it becomes neces- 
sary to obtain a Lord Chamberlain's order. This is a 
mere formality, however, and involves nothing more 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 133 

than a personal application at the Chamberlain's office, 
near the Victoria Tower, at the time of the visit, 
which must be made between the hours of ten o'clock 
and four. As Saturday was the clay upon which our 
inspection of London began, the Houses of Parliament, 
or the New Palace of Westminster, as the vast collec- 
tion of buildings is also known, formed an early objec- 
tive point for most of us. As Parliament had not yet 
been prorogued, a few members of the party also suc- 
ceeded in obtaining admission to some of the sittings in 
the ensuing week. For admission to the Strangers' 
Gallery during the sessions of Parliament, a member's 
order, obtainable through the American Embassy, to 
of course a very limited extent, is requisite. On the 
approach to the western end of the Palace (from the 
cast) , in the Old Palace yard, the visitor sees Baron 
Marochetti's equestrian statue of Eichard Cceur de 
Lion. 

The present Houses of Parliament have been erected 
since 1840, from plans by Sir Charles Barry, and 
occupy a site on which a royal palace has existed since 
the time of Edward the Confessor. The former struct- 
ure was for the most part destroyed by fire in 1834. 
Westminster Hall, built by Eichard II., towards the 
close of the fourteenth century, and which was the 
hall of the ancient palace, was saved, and is now 
incorporated in the new palace. On the west side 
of Westminster Hall are the law courts, but the 



134 A SUMMER JAUNT 

building in which they are accommodated does not 
harmonize with the newer structure, and it is to be 
removed upon the completion of the new law courts 
in the Strand. The entire area occupied by this vast 
jule is about eight acres. There are one thousand one 
hundred rooms, one hundred staircases, and some two 
miles of corridors and passages. The river-front is 
the most imposing. From one extremity to the other 
the distance is nine hundred and forty feet, and the 
magnificent towers rise to a great height above the 
general line of the palace itself. These towers are 
the crowning glories of the vast structure. The 
Clock Tower at the north-east corner is three hun- 
dred and twenty feet high, and the four dials of the 
great clock are twenty-three feet in diameter. There 
are several bells, the largest of which weighs thirteen 
tons. The middle tower is three hundred feet high, 
and the Royal, or Victoria Tower, at the south-Avest 
corner, one of the largest structures of the kind in the 
world, is seventy-five feet square and three hundred 
and forty feet high. The material employed for the 
outer masonry is magncsian limestone, from Anston, 
in Yorkshire, but unfortunately it has already begun 
to crumble. The river terrace is built of granite. 
The architecture is of the revived Gothic, and the 
ornamentation is everywhere very elaborate. The 
chief public entrances are through Westminster Hall, 
or at the south end, near the Victoria Tower. The 



THItOUGII THE OLD WOULD. 135 

Lord Chamberlain's office is near the latter, and the 
royal entrance is beneath the tower. The impression 
produced by the interior is, in its way, quite as im- 
posing as that of the exterior. Lavish magnificence 
is everywhere shown, and the effect is in admirable 
keeping with the exalted purpose of the building, 
which is closely associated with the highest govern- 
mental affairs of the nation. The royal apartments 
especially are very richly adorned, down to the 
minutest detail. Ascending the staircase near the 
Victoria Tower, and passing through the Norman 
Porch, the Queen's Eobing-Eoom is first reached. 
This is a handsome apartment, forty-five feet in length, 
and the walls are decorated with frescoes from the 
Legend of King Arthur, by Dyce. Next is the Eoyal 
or Victoria Gallery, one hundred and ten feet in 
length, through which the Queen proceeds in solemn 
state to the House of Lords, when she opens or pro- 
rogues Parliament. This noble apartment contains 
the celebrated frescoes by Maclise, representing on 
one side the "Meeting of Wellington and Blucher 
after the Battle of Waterloo," and on the other "The 
Death of Nelson." At the opposite end is the Prince's 
Chamber, which serves as a kind of ante-room to the 
House of Lords when royalty is received, and which 
contains John Gibson's marble group of the Queen 
supported by Justice and Mercy. In panels are full- 
length portraits of English monarchs of the Tudor 



136 A SUMMER JAU^T 

period (1485 to 1603), with those of princes and 
princesses of the realm, and consorts of the kings and 
queens. Henry VIII., with his numerous wives, 
Mary Queen of Scots, and Queen Elizabeth, are in 
this collection. The House of Lords, or Peers, is 
the grandest apartment in the palace, though smaller 
than the legislative halls in Washington. It is ninety- 
seven feet in length, forty-five in width, and forty-five 
in height. The decorations, which are in the Gothic 
style, are sumptuous, but the accommodations for 
members are by no means extravagant in style or 
fittings. The benches for the four hundred and thirty- 
four members are covered with red leather, and are 
unprovided with desks. These seats occupy the 
greater part of the floor, although space is reserved 
for the bar of the House, and for the traditional 
"Woolsack," a sort of cushioned ottoman, upon which 
the Lord Chancellor takes his seat. The throne is in 
the centre, at the northern extremity of the House, 
between the doors leading to the Prince's Chamber. 
Upon the right, at a lower level, is the chair of the 
Prince of Wales, and upon the left that of the sov- 
ereign's consort. These grand chairs of state, and 
their lofty canopies, are richly gilded. The Eeport- 
ers' Gallery faces the throne, and above it is the 
Strangers' Gallery. The northern and southern walls 
are adorned with magnificent frescoes, three at either 
end. "The Baptism of Ethelbert," by Dyce, "Ed- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 137 

ward III. conferring the Order of the Garter on the 
Black Prince," and "Henry Prince of Wales com- 
mitted to prison by Judge Gascoigne," both by Cope, 
above the throne ; and the " Spirit of Religion," by 
Horsley, in the central compartment above the Stran- 
gers' Gallery ; with the " Spirit of Chivalry " and the 
"Spirit of the Law," both by Maclise, on either side. 
There are twelve stained glass windows, lighted at 
night from the outside, and between them are eighteen 
niches, with statues of the barons who were deputed 
to obtain the Magna Charta from King John. Each 
of the twelve lofty windows has eight compartments, 
and these contain the portraits of all the kings and 
queens of England since the Conquest. 

The Peers' Lobby, and the Peers' Robing-Room, the 
latter containing a fine fresco by J. R. Herbert, " Moses 
Bringing down the Tables of the Law to the Israelites," 
with spaces for eight other scriptural works by the 
same artist, are visited, but the Libraries and Refresh- 
ment Rooms of both Houses are closed against the pub- 
lic. The Peers' Corridor, which contains eight fres- 
coes, the subjects of which are taken from English his- 
tory (one of them being "The Embarkation of the 
Pilgrim Fathers to New England"), leads to the cen- 
tral hall, a noble apartment, sixty feet in diameter, 
which is adorned by numerous statues of kings and 
queens, and lighted by lofty windows of stained glass. 
There are four lofty Gothic doorways leading from this 



138 A SUMMER JAUNT 

hall to important departments of the buildings, and 
four lesser exits to various private rooms. Upon 
the mosaic pavement is the following significant 
inscription, in the Latin of the Vulgate: "Except 
the Lord keep the house their labour is but lost 
that build it." The great doorway, on the east 
side, leads to two waiting-rooms, the chief of which 
is called the Hall of Poets, on account of its adorn- 
ment with eight frescoes, the subjects of which are 
taken from as many celebrated poets. Chaucer fur- 
nishes "Griselda's First Trial of Patience," by C. W. 
Cope ; Spenser, " St. George Overcoming the Drag- 
on," by G. F. Watts; Shakespeare, "Lear Disinherit- 
ing Cordelia," by J. It. Herbert; Milton, "Satan 
touched by Ithuriel's Spear," by J. C. Horsley ; Dry- 
den, "St. Cecilia," by J. Tenniel ; Pope, "The Per- 
sonification of Thames," by Edward Armitage ; Scott, 
"The Death of Marmion," by Armitage; and Byron, 
"The Death of Lara," by Cope. On the staircase is 
a statue by J. H. Foley, of Sir Charles Barry, the 
architect of the palace. Passing through the Com- 
mons' Corridor, the w r alls of which are adorned with 
eight frescoes, the subjects of which, like most of the 
others, are w T ell-known events in English history, and 
the Commons' Lobby, we come to the House of Com- 
mons itself. This apartment is 75 feet in length, 45 
in width, and 41 in height, and though handsomely 
ornamented, is in a much simpler and more business- 



THEOUGH THE OLD WOELD. 139 

like style than the House of Lords. Although there 
are 658 members of the popular branch, seats arc pro- 
vided for only 476. The seat of the Speaker is at 
the north end of the chamber. The benches to the 
right of the Speaker are the recognized seats of the 
government party, the ministers occupying the front 
bench, and on the left are the members forming the 
opposition, the leaders of which occupy the front bench, 
like the ministers on the other side. In front of the 
Speaker's table is the Clerk's table, on which lies the 
mace. The Reporters' Gallery is above the Speaker, 
and there are also seats for the diplomatic corps, a 
Speaker's Gallery, a Peers' Gallery, and a Strangers' 
Galleiy. The house is lighted at night through a 
glass ceiling. Beyond the House of Commons lie the 
Speaker's Court, and the official residences of the 
Speaker, the Sergeant-at-Arms, the Librarian, and the 
Chief Clerk of the House of Commons. Returning 
to the central hall, we pass through its west door to 
St. Stephen's Hall, an apartment 75 feet long and 30 
feet wide, which occupies old St. Stephen's Chapel, 
founded in 1330, and long used for the meetings of 
the Commons. Along the walls are marble statues 
of celebrated statesmen, including Hampden, Selden, 
Lord Falkland, Lord Clarendon, Lord Somers, Sir 
Robert Walpole, Lord Chatham, Lord Mansfield, 
Burke, Fox, Pitt, and Grattan. Niches at the sides of 
the doors are occupied by statues of English sover- 



140 A SUMMER JAUNT 

eigns. Thus displayed are the effigies of William the 
Conqueror, Matilda, Eleanor, Richard Cceur de Lion, 
and half a dozen other ancient monarchs. A small 
staircase at one corner of this hall leads to St. 
Stephen's Crypt (or more properly the Church of St. 
Mary's Undercroft), where the embalmed body of an 
ecclesiastic, supposed to be that of Stephen Lynd- 
wode, Bishop of St. David's from 1442 to 1446, and 
keeper of the Privy Seal to Henry VI., was found 
some years ago. A broad flight of steps leads through 
a high portal on the north side of St. Stephen's Hall, 
and descends to Westminster Hall, a part of the an- 
cient Palace of Westminster founded by the Anglo- 
Saxon kings, and occupied by their successors down 
to Henry VIII. Its length is 290 feet ; breadth, 68 
feet ; height, 92 feet. The oaken roof, with its ham- 
mer-beams, repaired in 1820 with the wood of an old 
vessel, is rightly considered a masterpiece of timber 
architecture, both in point of beauty and constructive 
skill. Aside from the roof, the hall looks very plain 
and bare, compared with the elaborately decorated 
apartments in the new palace we have just left. 
It is at present the temporary resting-place of several 
statues of English monarchs. 

Westminster Hall has been a celebrated place in 
English histoiy through all ages. In it were held 
some of the earliest English parliaments, one of which 
declared Edward II. to have forfeited the crown. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 141 

After its restoration by Eichard II. it witnessed the 
deposition of that unfortunate monarch. Here, too, 
the English monarchs, down to the time of George 
IY., gave their coronation festivals ; and here Edward 
III. entertained the captive kings, David of Scotland 
and John of France. Here, Charles I. was con- 
demned to death ; and Cromwell was here saluted as 
Lord Protector. Within eight years after, Cromwell's 
head was placed on one of the pinnacles of this same 
hall, where it remained thirty years. Many famous 
historical characters have here been condemned to 
death, including the brave William Wallace, champion 
of Scotland's liberties ; Sir John Oldcastle (better 
known as Lord Cobham) ; Sir Thomas More ; the 
Protector Somerset ; Sir Thomas Wyatt ; Eobert 
Devereux, Earl of Essex ; Guy Fawkes ; and the 
Earl of Strafford. Among other notable scenes here 
witnessed were the acquittal of the seven bishops who 
had been committed to the Tower for their opposition 
to the Eoman Catholic innovations of James II., and 
the acquittal of Warren Hastings after his long trial. 

In Parliament Square, near both the palace and ab- 
bey, are bronze statues of the Earl of Derby, Lord 
Palmerston, Sir Eobert Peel, and George Canning; 
and at the corner of Great St. George Street is a 
handsome Gothic fountain, erected as a memorial to 
the noble men who brought about the abolition of 
slavery in the British dominions. 



142 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Westminster Abbey, with its royal burial vaults and 
its numerous monuments to the great men of the past, 
is one of the most interesting objects in London. It 
forms a sort of national Temple of Fame, although 
not all who have been buried beneath its grand arches 
are worthy of this distinction. The abbey itself has 
an interesting history. A church is said to have been 
erected on the same site, in the early part of the sev- 
enth century, by the Anglo-Saxon king, Scbcrt. This 
was dedicated to St. Peter, and connected therewith 
was a Benedictine religious house (monasterium or 
minster). The term Westminster was applied on 
account of its situation west of St. Paul's. This early 
church was destroyed by the Danes, and then rebuilt, 
in 985, by King Edgar. The regular establishment of 
the abbey, however, should be ascribed to Edward 
the Confessor, who built a large church on the same 
site between 1049-G5. In the latter half of the thir- 
teenth century the abbey was entirely rebuilt by 
Henry III., and his son Edward I/, who left it substan- 
tially in its present condition. The beautiful Chapel 
of Henry VII. w T as erected by that monarch at the be- 
ginning of the sixteenth century, and the towers, which 
are not in keeping with the rest of the edifice, were 
completed in 1714 from designs by Sir Christopher 
Wren. At the time of the Eeformalion, the abbey 
was confiscated, like all other Catholic establishments, 
and the church was converted into the cathedral of a 



mkmm 




THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 143 

bishopric. Under Queen Mary the monks returned, 
but her successor, Queen Elizabeth, restored the pro- 
visions of her father, Henry VIII., and conveyed the 
abbey to a Dean who presided over a chapter of 
twelve Canons. 

The church is in the form of a Latin cross, and for 
the most part is in the early English style of archi- 
tecture, although in the various parts of the structure 
all succeeding styles may be found. The Chapel of 
Henry VII. is in the perpendicular style, and is one 
of the finest specimens of the architecture of that 
period now in existence. Its interior is especially 
admired on account of its beautiful fan-tracery roof. 
The stalls and banners of the Knights of the Order of 
the Bath are within the chapel. The interior of the 
main part of the abbey also produces a striking im- 
pression, on account of the harmony of its proportions, 
and the richness of its coloring. There are some 
beautifully stained windows, and the columns are of 
Purbeck marble. The choir is a beautiful specimen of 
early English architecture, but an elaborate reredos 
has been constructed within a few years. This is 
made chiefly of white and colored alabaster from Staf- 
fordshire, combined with red spar from Cornwall. In 
a space above the altar table is a mosaic in Venetian 
glass, representing the Last Supper. The total length 
of the church, including the Chapel of Henry VII. , 
is 513 feet; length of transept, 200 feet; breadth of 



144 A SUMMER JAUNT 

nave and aisles, 75 feet; breadth of transept, 80 feet; 
height from pavement to inner roof, 101 feet ; height 
from pavement to the roof of the lantern, 140 feet; 
height of towers, 225 feet. 

The visitor may wander over the chief parts of the 
abbey without let or hindrance, but the personal ser- 
vices of a verger and the payment of small fee (six- 
pence) is requisite for an inspection of the various 
chapels, of which there are no less than nine. 
Through the kindness and courtesy of Dean Stanley, 
who has won the respect and esteem of Americans, as 
well as of his own countrymen, the members of our 
party who chose to avail themselves of a visit at an 
hour appointed, received special attentions. Let the 
visitor turn in any direction and he is constantly re- 
minded that he is in the resting-place of England's 
most precious dust. Says Dean Stanley, in his inter- 
esting "Memorial of Westminster Abbey": "Here 
lies the body of the Confessor, himself like the now 
decayed seed from which the wonderful pile has 
grown. Around his shrine are clustered not only the 
names, but the early relics, of the principal actors in 
every scene of history. Seventeen kings lie here, 
from Edward the Confessor to George II. ; and ten 
queens lie buried with them, amid England's greatest 
statesmen, warriors, divines, poets, and scholars." 

Not only is the ancient abbey the last resting-place 
of more than a score of England's monarchs, but it 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 145 

is also the scene of each succeeding assumption of 
the crown and sceptre. Every king and queen of 
England, from Edward the Confessor to Her Most 
Gracious Majesty Queen Victoria, was here crowned. 
The ancient coronation-chair, which relic-hunters 
and others have hacked and whittled until it pre- 
sents a decidedly dilapidated appearance, occupies 
an honored place in the chapel of Edward the 
Confessor. Beneath it rests the famous Stone of 
Scone, the emblem of power of the Scottish princes, 
and traditionally claimed to be the one upon which 
the patriarch Jacob laid his head. The stone was 
brought to London by Edward L, in 1205, in 
token of the complete subjugation of Scotland. 
Every English monarch since that date has been 
crowned in this chair. Beside it is a chair of similar 
model, which was constructed for Queen Mary, wife of 
William III. The coronation takes place within the 
choir, and the chairs are then covered with gold bro- 
cade. The royal cortege on such occasions enters the 
abbey by a door which is at no other time opened. 
Throughout the abbey the monuments of the dead crowd 
upon each other as do the bodies which sleep below. 
Statues, busts, and mortuary groups are erected above 
urns and tombs, and memorial tablets are inserted in 
the walls. In many places the tablets form a part of 
the pavement itself. Of the Anglo-Saxon line of 
monarchs, Sebert and his queen Athelgoda lie be- 



146 A SUMMER JAUNT 

neath a marble sarcophagus. The shrine of Edward the 
Confessor, once covered with precious gems, but now 
bare of its rich adornments, occupies the chapel which 
bears his name. Beside the Confessor, nine of the 
early wielders of England's sceptre lie within the abbey. 
Those warrior kings, Edward I., Edward III., and 
Henry V., are enshrined in marble altar-tombs/ The 
tomb of Henry VII. , is an elaborate structure within 
the chapel built by that monarch. Lord Bacon termed 
it " one of the stateliest and daintiest tombs in Europe." 
A white marble sarcophagus, erected by Charles II., is 
supposed to contain the remains of Edward V. and his 
brother, Richard, Duke of York, who were murdered 
in the Tower by order of their wicked uncle, Richard 
III. Elizabeth and her sister Mary (" Bloody Mary") 
rest side by side, and but a little distance from them 
lies Mary Queen of Scots, whose body was removed 
from Peterborough Cathedral to London by her son, 
James I. Among the other monarchs buried within 
the abbey are Henry III. ; the queens of both Edward 
I. and Edward III. ; Richard II. and his queen ; 
Anne, queen of Richard III. ; the queen of Henry 
VII. ; Anne of Cleves, queen of Henry VIII. ; 
Edward VI. ; James I. and his queen ; the queen of 
Bohemia, daughter of James I. ; Charles II. ; Wil- 
liam III. and Queen Mary ; Queen Anne ; George II. 
and Queen Caroline. The north transept of the 
abbey was consecrated to statesmen a century ago, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 147 

when William Pitt, Earl of Chatham, was buried 
there. Here, or rather just without the transept, in 
the south aisle of the nave, sleep the two great rivals, 
the younger Pitt and Charles James Fox, both of 
whom died in 1806. Referring to this, their last 
resting-place, Sir Walter Scott wrote : — 

" The nrighty chiefs sleep side by side : 
Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 
'Twill trickle to his rival's bier ; 
O'er Pitt's the mournful requiem sound, 
And Fox's shall the notes resound." 

Lord Mansfield, Grattan, George Canning, Wilber- 
force, Lord Clarendon, Lord Castlereagh, Warren 
Hastings, Earl Canning, and Lord Palmerston are 
also buried here. The name of "Poet's Corner" has 
been given to a large portion of the south transept. 
Chaucer was buried in the cloisters of Westminster 
Abbey, without the building, but removed to the 
south aisle in 1555 ; Spenser lies near him. Beau- 
mont, Michael Drayton, Sir Robert Ay ton, Sir Wil- 
liam Davenant, Cowley, Denham, Dryden, Rowe, 
Addison, Prior, Congreve, Gay, Ben Jonson, Sheri- 
dan, and Campbell all lie within Westminster Abbey. 
Bulwer is also buried here. Shakespeare was buried 
in the chancel of the church at Stratford, where 
there is a monument to his memory ; but a fine 
statue of the great dramatist adorns the wall of the 
"Poet's Corner." A slab upon the pavement marks 



148 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the grave of Charles Dickens, and near it is the tomb 
of the composer, George Frederick Handel, sur- 
mounted by a life-size statue, and emblems of music. 
Lord Macaulay, as well as Dickens, rests beneath 
Addison's monument. Henry Purcell, Dr. John 
Blow, Dr. William Croft, Dr. Samuel Arnold, and 
William Sterndale Bennett, all eminent musicians and 
composers, and Dr. Charles Burney, the author of 
the celebrated History of Music, are buried in the 
abbey ; as are also several distinguished representa- 
tives of the stage, including Betterton, Mrs. Oldfield, 
Mrs. Braccgirdle, Mrs. Cibber, Henderson, Barton 
Booth, and David Garrick. The latter has a fine 
statue, and Booth a medallion, but the graves of the 
others are unmarked. Mrs. Siddons and John Kem- 
ble are commemorated by statues, though buried else- 
where (Mrs. Siddons in Old Pacldington Church- 
yard) ; and there are also memorials to John Milton, 
Oliver Goldsmith, Robert Southey, James Thomson, 
Wordsworth, Gray, Butler, and Thackeray. Milton is 
buried at St. Giles's, Cripplegate ; Goldsmith in the 
churchyard of the Temple Church ; Southey in Crosth- 
waite Church, near Keswick; Thomson at Rich- 
mond ; Gray at Stoke Pogis ; Butler at St. Paul's, 
Co vent Garden ; and Thackeray at Kensal Green. 
The following epitaph, written by the poet himself, 
but supplemented by some gentler lines by Pope, is 
inscribed upon John Gay's monument : — 

"Life is a jest, and all things show it: 
I thought so once, but now I know it." 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 149 

The epitaph on the tablet to Henry Purcell informs 
the world that the eminent composer " is gone where 
only his own harmony can be exceeded." The grave 
of David Livingstone, the explorer, who died in 
Africa, in 1873, is in the nave, and is covered by a 
large slab of black marble. In the centre of the 
south transept is a white slab, which covers the re- 
mains of " Old Parr," who is said to have lived to the 
age of 152 years. The monument of Major John 
Andre is one which attracts much attention from 
American visitors. There are some small figures in 
bas-relief representing the appeal to General Wash- 
ington made the night previous to the execution, to save 
Andre's life. It is a remarkable fact that twice the 
head of Washington has been knocked off. The 
figure now bears its third head. There are many re- 
markable monuments, one of the most striking of 
which is to the memory of Joseph Gascoigne Nightin- 
gale and Lady Nightingale. The husband is repre- 
sented as trying to shield his wife from the dart of the 
King of Terrors, who has emerged from a tomb and is 
pointing his unerring shaft toward her. The figures are 
life-size. On a monument to General George Wade, 
who died in 1748, the Goddess of Fame is preventing 
Time from destroying the general's trophies. In the 
chapdl of Abbot Islip, is a monument to the memory 
of General James Wolfe, who was killed at the siege 
of Quebec, in 1759. The brave soldier is represented 



150 A SUMMER JAUNT 

as falling into the arms of a grenadier, while Glory, 
in the form of an angel in the clouds, holds forth a 
wreath to crown him. A Highland sergeant looks 
sorrowfully on, and two lions watch at his feet. Near 
the Nightingale monument (in the east aisle of the 
north transept) is a fine monument to Sir Francis 
Vere, a famous soldier in Queen Elizabeth's reign. 
Four knights, kneeling, support a table upon which are 
the several parts of a complete set of armor, and 
beneath is a recumbent figure of Sir Francis Yere. 

Without the main edifice of the abbey is the Jerusa- 
lem Chamber, where Henry IY. died, and Edward Y. 
is said to have been born ; the chapel of the Pyx, 
which is claimed to be the most ancient of any of the 
buildings; the cloisters, built partly by Henry III., 
and partly by Edward I. ; and the Chapter House. 

Westminster Column is a granite shaft, sixty feet 
in height, just west of the abbey, erected to the mem- 
ory of former scholars of the Westminster School who 
fell in the War of the Crimea and the Indian mutiny. 
In addition to the column, the monument includes 
statues of Edward the Confessor, Henry III., Queen 
Elizabeth (the founder of Westminster School) , and 
Queen Yictoria. Four lions are at the corners, and 
the column is surmounted by figures of St. George 
and the Dragon. The entrance to the school is soutL 
of the column. Westminster Hospital, one of the 
many noble institutions of this kind London boasts, 




HENRY SEVENTH'S CHAPEL, WESTMINSTER ABBEY 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 151 

is near the abbey, and is on the Broad Sanctuary, a 
place formerly a sacred refuge for criminal and polit- 
ical offenders. 

Returning towards the city from the Parliament 
Houses and Westminster Abbey, one naturally walks, 
or rides, through Parliament Street and Whitehall, to 
Charing Cross and Trafalgar Square; and, if the day 
be not too far spent, a short visit may be paid to the 
National Gallery ; and, in any event, the monuments 
and statues in the square may be inspected. In pass- 
ing through Whitehall, there are seen Montague House 
(the town mansion of the Duke of Buccleuch), the 
little that remains of Whitehall Palace, some of the 
public offices, the Treasury, the Horse Guards, and the 
Admiralty. The public offices, which extend into 
Downing Street, a thoroughfare running at right 
angles from Whitehall to St. James's Park, have an 
imposing facade. The Banqueting Hall of the Palace 
of Whitehall, now used as a Royal Chapel, is all that 
remains of its former splendor ; indeed, it is the only 
part that was rebuilt, the ancient palace having been 
destroyed by fire. This structure was built in the 
reign of James I., and, like the uncompleted palace, 
was designed by Inigo Jones. The hall is a splendid 
specimen of the Palladian style of architecture, one 
hundred and eleven feet long, fifty-five and one-half 
feet wide, and fifty-five and one-half feet high. The 
ceiling is embellished with pictures by Rubens, repre- 



152 A SUMMEIt JAUNT ' 

senting the apotheosis of James I., scenes from the 
life of Charles I., &c. Some of the most tragic epi- 
sodes of English history have been enacted in the old 
palace, and the present edifice has witnessed many 
exciting scenes. From an opening made in the wall, 
Charles I. was led out to the scaffold erected for his 
execution in the street close by. A little later the 
Protector, Oliver Cromwell, took up his residence in 
the same street, with his secretary, John Milton, and 
here he died, September 3, 1658. Charles II. re- 
stored his court here, and here, too, he died. 

Near Charing Cross is the scene of the execution of 
the Regicides ; and on the same spot is an equestrian 
statue of their royal victim, which has a remarkable 
history. The statue is by Hubert Le Soeur, and was 
cast in 1633, but had not been erected when the civil 
war broke out. It was then sold by the Parliament 
to a brazier named John Rivet, and this individual 
sold pretended fragments of it to both friends and 
foes of the Stuarts, in the form of knife-handles, &c. 
At the Restoration the statue was produced intact, 
having been buried in the brazier's garden, and it was 
erected on its present site in 1674. The United Ser- 
vice Museum, containing objects connected with the 
operations of the Army and Navy, is in Whitehall 
Place, which opens eastward from Whitehall, towards 
the Thames ; and, in the same vicinity, is Great 
Scotland Yard (so called from the fact that it once 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 153 

belonged to the Scottish kings") , the headquarters of 
the Metropolitan Police. 

The present Charing Cross is a modern copy of 
Eleanors Cross, a Gothic monument erected in 1291, 
by Edward I., on the spot where the coffin of his 
consort was set down during its last halt on the way 
to Westminster Abbey. The present monument stands 
in front of the terminus hotel of the South-Eastern 
Railway, but the site of the ancient cross (removed in 
1647) is said to have been where the equestrian 
statue of Charles I. stands. The finest adornment of 
Trafalgar Square is the Nelson Column, a granite shaft 
one hundred and forty-five feet in height, copied from 
one of the Corinthian columns of the temple of Mars 
Ultor, at Rome. The column is crowned by a statue 
of Nelson, by Baily, seventeen feet in height, and the 
pedestal is adorned with reliefs in bronze, cast with 
the metal of captured French cannon. Four colossal 
bronze lions, modelled by Sir Edwin Landseer, couch 
upon pedestals running out from the column in the 
form of a cross. The square contains two handsome 
fountains, statues of Sir Henry Havelock, Sir Charles 
James Napier, and Chantrey's equestrian statue of 
George IV. 

The National Gallery is situated upon a terrace, and 
occupies the whole of one side of Trafalgar Square. 
The building is in the Grecian style, and has a facade 
460 feet in length. It was originally built between the 



15,4 A SUMMER JAUXT 

years 1832-38, and was greatly enlarged in 1860 and 
1876. The collection of paintings is large and is 
exceedingly valuable. In the entrance hall are statues 
of three distinguished painters — -Sir David Wilkie, 
Mulready, and Stotharcl. There are eighteen rooms 
devoted to paintings, as follows : I., British School of 
the eighteenth and early part of the nineteenth cen- 
turies, containing works by Sir Edwin Landscer, 
Horsley, Pickersgill, Maclise and others, including 
also Rosa Bonheur's celebrated picture, "The Horse 
Fair" ; II., British School, containing works by Land- 
seer, Stanficld, Turner, Sir Charles Eastlake, Mulready, 
Herring, Simpson and others; III., British School, 
containing works by Callcott, Hilton, Wilkie, Beechy, 
Stothard and others ; IV. , devoted to water-colors and 
drawings by Turner; V., British School, containing 
pictures by Martin, Srnirke, Hay don, Barker and West ; 
VI. , containing the admirable collection of paintings by 
Turner, chiefly bequeathed by the painter himself; 
VII., British School, containing works by Sir Joshua 
Reynolds, Hogarth, Copley, Gainsborough and others ; 
VIII. , British School, containing works by Reynolds, 
Lawrence, Copley and Wright ; IX., French School, 
containing several fine pictures by Claude Lorraine, and 
others by N. Poussin, Gaspar Poussin, Sebastien Bour- 
don, Francois Clouet, C. J. Vernet, Hyacinth Rigaud, 
&c. ; X., Later Italian School, including pictures by 
Lodovico Caracci, Romano, Annib.il Caracci, Barbieri, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 155 

Maratti, Guido Reni, Salvator Rosa, Domenichino, 
Paolo Veronese, &c. ; XL, the Wynn Ellis gift, con- 
sisting chiefly of specimens of the Dutch masters, 
among whom the Teniers (both father and son) , Cuyp, 
Wouverman, Vanclervelde, and other well-known 
names are represented ; XII. , Dutch and Flemish 
Schools, containing besides works of Rubens and Van 
Dyck, the chiefs of the Flemish school of the seven- 
teenth century, good examples of Rembrandt, their 
great Dutch contemporary, and also of the latter's 
pupils, Maas and De Hooghe ; XIII. , Italian School of 
the fourteenth century, represented by Fra Angelico, 
Filippo Lippi, Botticelli, Filippino Lippi, and Polla- 
juolo, of Florence, Mantegna, of Padua, Giovanni 
Bellini, of Venice, &c. ; XIV., Italian School of the 
fifteenth century, containing an extensive collection of 
the works of the greatest Italian masters, particularly 
those of Venice and Lombardy ; XV., Select Cabinet, 
containing the gems of the collection, among which are 
cabinet pictures by Bellini and Giorgione, master- 
pieces by Raphael, Titian, Correggio, and Michael 
Angelo, and specimens of Jan van Eyck, the founder 
of early Flemish painting; XVI. , Peel collection, 
chiefly of Flemish and Dutch cabinet pieces of a high 
order of merit; XVII., Early Italian School, consist- 
ing of Florentine pictures' of the fourteenth century; 
XVIII. , Spanish School, containing a few good works 
by Velasquez and Muriilo. The Central Octagon con- 



156 A SUMMER JAUNT 

tains works by the painters of North Italy and 
Umbria. 

Near the National Gallery is the Church of St. Mar- 
tin's-in-the-Fields, with a handsome Grecian portico. 

Continuing from Charing Cross through the Strand 
(so called from its skirting the river), several theatres 
are passed, and numerous other play-houses are in the 
neighborhood north of the Strand. Exeter Hall is 
also upon the Strand. Somerset House, the principal 
fagade of which, 780 feet in length, is on the Thames 
side, rises on the south side of the thoroughfare. This 
edifice was erected towards the close of the last cen- 
tury, on the site of a palace begun in 1549 by the Pro- 
tector Somerset, and is occupied for various public 
offices, including that of the Registrar- General. Just 
before reaching the site of Temple Bar, upon the left 
are the new Law Courts, still in process of erection. 
Temple Bar marks the limit of the West End. Beyond 
it Fleet Street enters The City, and leads to Ludgate 
Hill. Whenever a reigning sovereign has visited The 
City on state occasions, permission has been obtained 
from the Lord Mayor to pass Temple Bar. This is an 
ancient custom. At one time it was the custom to 
exhibit the heads of criminals on spikes at this place, 
as a terror to evil-doers. There are several churches 
in the Strand, at one of which, St. Clement Danes (so 
called because Harold Harefoot, son of Canute, and 
other Danes were buried there), Dr. Sam. Johnson 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 157 

worshipped for twenty years. Another celebrated per- 
sonage, Joe Miller, was buried in the parish burial- 
ground, now occupied by Kings College Hospital. 

On the south side of Fleet Street is the Temple, 
formerly a Lodge of the Knights Templar. On the 
dissolution of the order in 1313, it became crown 
property, and by Edward II. was presented to Aymer 
de Valence, Earl of Pembroke. After Pembroke's 
death it came into the possession of the Knights of St. 
John, who, in 1346, leased it to the students of Com- 
mon Law. From that time to the present, the build- 
ing, or rather group of buildings, has continued to be 
a School of Law. The Inner Temple, Middle Temple, 
Lincoln's Inn and Gray's Inn, constitute the four Inns 
of Court, which are so called from having been 
anciently held in the "Aula Regia," or Court of the 
King's Palace. Their government is vested in "Bench- 
ers," selected from the most successful and distinguished 
members of the English bar. The Inns of Chancery 
are supposed to be subsidiary to the four Inns of Court. 
In the fine Gothic Hall of the Middle Temple, Shakes- 
peare's " Twelfth Night " was acted in the dramatist's 
life-time. Within the Inner Temple is the Temple 
Church (also called St. Mary's), an ancient place of 
worship, consisting of a Round Church and Choir. In 
the former are nine monuments of Templars of the 
twelfth and thirteenth centuries, and in the church- 
yard, north of the choir, Oliver Goldsmith is buried. 



158 A SUMMER JAUNT 

In the Temple Gardens, which lie back of the Temple 
and bordering upon the Thames Embankment, accord- 
ing to Shakespeare, were plucked the white and red 
roses which were assumed as the distinctive badges of 
the houses of York and Lancaster, in the long and 
bloody civil contest, known as the "War of the 
Roses." 



THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 159 



CHAPTER IY. 

ENGLAND CONTINUED. 

More about London — St. Paul's and its Sights — The Post-Office 
— The Tower of London — Its Mournful History and its Won- 
ders — The Crown Jewels — Fifteen Million Dollars' Worth of 
Gewgaws — The British Museum and its Vast Collections — The 
South Kensington Museum — A Magnificent Art-School — The 
Albert Memorial — The Koyal Albert Hall and an Organ Concert 
therein — Parks and Palaces — The Thames Embankments — Cle- 
opatra's Needle — Sights on the Thames — The Docks and the 
Shipping — The Bank of England and the Royal Exchange — 
Band of Hope Fete at the Crystal Palace — Singing by Ten 
Thousand Children — A Glimpse of Royalty — Spurgeon and his 
Work, &c. 

St. Paul's Cathedral is the crowning glory of 
London, architecturally speaking. The noble edifice, 
the third largest church structure in Christendom, 
St. Peter's at Eome and the Milan Cathedral being 
its only superiors in size, stands upon a hill, and the 
great dome raises its graceful proportions high above 
the surrounding buildings. Nevertheless, no really 
good view of St. Paul's is had in the near vicinity, or 
account of the neighboring structures. The bestvie^ 
is had from the river, or from Blackfriars Bridge. 
The present edifice was erected after the destruction 
of old St. Paul's in the great fire of 1666, from 



160 A SUMMER JAUNT 

designs by Sir Christopher Wren. It was begun in 
1675, opened for worship in 1697, and completed, so 
far as the design was concerned, in 1710, although the 
decorations w T ere not finished until thirteen years later, 
or forty-eight years after the first stone was laid. 
The church covers between two and three acres, and 
cost nearly £750,000, the money being raised for the 
most part by a tax on coals. Its entire length, from 
east to west, is five hundred feet ; its breadth, at the 
western entrance, one hundred and eighty feet, and at 
the transept, two hundred and fifty feet ; length of 
the choir, one hundred and sixty-five feet. The 
general height of the walls is about ninetv feet, and 
the entire circumference of the building is two 
thousand two hundred and ninety-two feet. The 
height to the top of the cross is three hundred and 
fifty-two feet from the floor of the church, or three 
hundred and sixty feet from the pavement of the 
street. Some of the guide-books give the height as 
four hundred and four feet. The two western towers 
are two hundred and twenty-two feet high. The ex- 
terior of the diameter of the dome is one hundred and 
eighty feet. The old cathedral was a building of vast 
proportions, though of somewhat different shape. Its 
extreme length was six hundred and ninety feet, and 
it had a wooden spire five hundred and twenty feet 
high. Old St. Paul's, as this last mentioned structure 
is now termed, was, by no means, the oldest St. Paul's. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 161 

As early as 610; Ethelbert, king of Kent, undertook 
the building of a church to St. Paul, and there is 
some reason to believe that a pagan temple once 
existed on the same site. 

Dr. Tourjee, and all who chose to accompany him 
to St. Paul's, had the distinguished honor of being 
shown over the historic edifice by Canon Gregory, 
who very courteously extended every facility for a 
thorough inspection of its many interesting features. 
Many of our party also attended divine service there 
on the Sabbath of our stay in London. The interior 
of the church is imposing, mainly on account of its 
vastness. The decorations are meagre, a,nd the light 
is not sufficient to make the paintings in the dome dis- 
tinct. These paintings are eight in number, repre- 
senting some of the chief events in the life of St. 
Paul, and were executed by Sir James Thornhill. 
The architect is not at fault for the defect of insuffi- 
cient light, inasmuch as his design was adopted only 
in part. His plan contemplated, in addition to a large 
central dome, eight smaller cupolas, with a fine portico. 
The dome and the eight supporting arches of this 
design only were carried out, and Sir Christopher is 
said to have wept when he was compelled to adopt the 
long nave and side aisles of a Eoman Catholic Cathe- 
dral. The architect's original model is kept in the 
church, but is not now exposed to public view as it was 
formerly. St. Paul's, like Westminster Abbey, is 



162 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the resting-place of many distinguished dead, chiefly 
military or naval heroes. Among the former are the 
Duke of Wellington ; Lieut. General Sir Ralph Ab- 
ercromby ; Major-General Sir Isaac Brock, who was 
killed, in 1812, while resisting an attack on Queens- 
town, Canada, where an elaborate monument has been 
placed in his honor ; Sir Andrew Hay, who fell at 
Bayonne in 1814; Lieut. General John Moore, who 
was slain at Corunna ; Major-General Daniel Hoghton, 
who fell at Albuera in 1811 ; Generals Sir Edward 
Pakenham and Samuel Gibbs, both of whom lost 
their lives at the Battle of New Orleans ; Sir William 
Ponsonby, and Sir Thomas Picton, who fell while 
fighting gallantly at Waterloo ; Major-General Ross, 
who led the attack on Washington in 1814, and after- 
wards fell in the engagement near Baltimore ; and the 
Marquis Cornwallis, who at the time of his death was 
Governor of Bengal. There is also a monument to 
the officers of the Coldstream Guards, who fell in the 
Crimean War. Among the distinguished sailors who 
lie buried here, are Lord Nelson, Lord Duncan, 
Admiral Lord Howe, Admiral Lord Rodney, Ad- 
miral Napier, and Lord Collingwood. Among the 
other eminent men entombed in St. Paul's, are Dr. 
Samuel Johnson, the lexicographer; Henry Hallam, 
the historian; John Howard, the philanthropist; 
Bishop Reginald Heber; Bishop Thomas Fanshaw 
Middleton, the first Protestant Bishop in India ; the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 163 

late Dean Milman, of St. Paul's ; Sir Christopher 
Wren ; Lord Lyons, and the following group of dis- 
tinguished painters : Sir Joshua Reynolds, Sir Thomas 
Lawrence, Benjamin West, John Opie, James Barry, 
Sir Edwin Landseer, and Joseph Mallord William 
Turner. The Wellington monument is quite impos- 
ing, although much of its effect is lost on account of 
the smallness of the chapel in which it is placed. The 
Nelson group, and numerous other monuments, are 
also elaborate, but in not a few instances, exceedingly 
bad taste is displayed, while in very few is a high 
order of art exhibited. The sarcophagus of Nelson 
is in the crypt in the centre of a circle of pillars, 
directly below the dome. This sarcophagus was pre- 
pared by Cardinal Wolsey for his own burial, but his 
death in disgrace prevented its being used for that 
purpose. Nelson's coffin was made of part of the 
wood of the ship L'Orient, which was engaged in the 
Battle of the Nile. The sarcophagus of Wellington, 
and the hearse used at the funeral of the "Iron Duke," 
are also in the crypt. 

To thoroughly inspect St. Paul's under ordinary 
circumstances — that is, when the visitor has not such 
distinguished guidance and companionship as Dr. 
Tourjee and those who were with him could boast — 
requires the expenditure of a considerable amount in 
fees. A descent to the Crypt and Vaults costs six- 
pence ; a visit to the Library, Geometrical Staircase, 



164 A SUMMER JAUNT 

and large bell, another sixpence ; to the Clock, two- 
pence ; the Whispering Gallery and the two external 
galleries (Stone' Gallery and Golden Gallery), another 
sixpence ; and an ascent to the Ball, the steepest 
charge of all, one shilling and sixpence ; making 
altogether the sum of three shillings and sixpence. 
Every visitor should ascend to the Whispering Gal- 
lery, and to, at least, the lower of the external gal- 
leries. Beyond these galleries only good climbers 
should venture, as the stairways are steep, and the 
latter part of the ascent is almost dangerous. Ladders 
take the place of staircases, and to mount into the hol- 
low metallic ball (which is six feet and two inches in 
diameter) , one must clamber up the projecting supports 
eight or ten feet without aid of either stair or ladder. 
From within the ball nothing is to be seen, but from 
just below magnificent glimpses of the outer world are 
had ; but they are not enough better than the view 
from the Stone or Golden Gallery to repay the addi- 
tional ascent. From either height a glorious pano- 
ramic view of London is had; and if the atmosphere 
is not very smoky (as it is almost sure to be after the 
morning hours) the prospect is very extended. There 
is no better point from which to realize the real great- 
ness of London. The mingled sounds of its busy 
streets, from the great watery highway which flows 
almost beneath the beholder, and from the railways 
which send out their clattering iron horses across the 



THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 165 

river and in all directions, float up to the ear as they 
do to a balloon traveller. The Stone Gallery is two 
hundred and twenty- three feet above the pavement, 
and encircles the base of the dome. The outer 
Golden Gallery, so called on account of the gilt rail- 
ings, surrounds the foot of the lantern. There are, 
in fact, three domes. The roof of the inner one is 
seen from within the church. Above this 'is a brick 
dome, which supports the lantern, and outside of both 
is a wooden structure, which is the dome seen from 
without. The lantern, like the church itself, is com- 
posed of Portland stone, and is said to weigh seven 
hundred tons. The ball which surmounts it weighs 
iive thousand six hundred pounds ; and the cross, 
which lifts itself fifteen feet higher than the ball, 
weighs three thousand three hundred pounds more. 
The Whispering Gallery is upon the inside of the 
dome, at its base. It is one hundred and forty yards 
in circumference, and yet a whisper may be heard from 
one side to the other. This is the best place from 
which to view the paintings on the ceiling of the 
dome, and the visitor may look over an iron railing 
into the choir below. Should he ascend to the lan- 
tern he may halt part way up and look through a little 
aperture at the very apex of the inner dome, some three 
hundred feet to the floor of the church. There have 
been several cases of suicide, where persons have 
thrown themselves from the Whispering Gallery to 



166 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the pavement. About half-way up to the Whispering 
Gallery, in the southern gallery, is the Library, 
founded by Bishop Compton (Bishop of London 
during the whole period of the building of S. Paul's). 
The Library is quite elaborately finished, the floor 
consisting of two thousand three hundred and seventy- 
six pieces of oak inlaid without nails or pegs ; and it 
forms a marked contrast to the galleries just without. 
The Library contains about nine thousand volumes. 
The Geometrical Staircase, consisting of ninety 
steps, was a novelty in its day, but similar con- 
structions are common at the present time. There 
are supports at only one end of the steps, and the 
whole seems to hang together by resting upon the 
lower step. These stairs were intended as a private 
way to the Library. The bells and clock — the tow- 
ers have recently been supplied with some new bells 
— will hardly repay inspection when there are so 
many interesting things to see. In May and June 
two great festivals take place at St. Paul's. The first 
of these is for the benefit of the sons' of deceased 
clergymen, and the other is in aid of the Charity 
Schools of the metropolis. On the latter occasion, 
there is singing by about ten thousand children. The 
church contains a magnificent organ, originally built 
by Bernard Schmidt, about the year 1694, but since 
wholly reconstructed. The organist is the talented 
Dr. Stabler, who succeeded Sir John Goss. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 167 

The surroundings of St. Paul's are full of historic 
interest. St. Paul's Churchyard is the thoroughfare 
surrounding the church. Between the churchyard 
and Newgate Street, on the north, is Paternoster 
Row, so called from the number of prayer books sold 
there. It is now, as it has been for centuries, the 
centre of the book-trade. In front of the western or 
main entrance to St. Paul's is a statue of Queen Anne, 
by Francis Bird. In Newgate Street are Christ's 
Hospital and Newgate Prison, and the Old Bailey 
(the Central Criminal Court) adjoins the latter. At 
the head of Newgate Street, in St. Martin's-le-Grancl, 
are the General Post-Office and General Telegraph 
Office, both establishments of great extent and vast 
resources. The number of letters delivered annually 
within the London district, which comprises a radius 
of twelve miles from the chief office, reaches many 
millions, and the number of receiving posts or street 
letter-boxes is nearly ten thousand. No house in 
London is more than one-eighth of a mile from a 
letter-box, or more than a quarter of a mile from a 
money-order office. 

Of all the sights of London, the Tower is histori- 
cally the most interesting. It stands just without the 
eastern limit of the old city, and upon the banks of 
the Thames. It was originally a feudal fortress and 
palace, then a state prison, and is now a Government 
store-house and armory. Tradition assigns to Julius 



168 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Cresar the distinction of having first built the Tower, 
and that the Eomans had a fortress here is more 
than probable, but the present buildings date back 
only to the time of William the Conqueror. There 
are nearer twenty towers than a. single tower, as the 
title of the place would seem to imply, and between 
twelve and thirteen acres are enclosed by the walls 
and moat. This latter is no longer applied to its 
ancient use, but has been drained and is devoted to 
gardens and parade-grounds. There is a central 
keep, or citadel, called the White Tower. Middle, or 
Martin, and By ward Towers defend the south-west 
angle of the moat, and the Cradle and St. Thomas 
Towers are also in the outer series of fortifications. 
The inner series are more numerous, and include the 
Bloody, Becord or Wakefield, Bell, Jewel, Bowyer, 
Devereux, and Bcauchamp Towers, with others that 
the casual visitor will have little reason to remem- 
ber. There are guide-books giving all needed partic- 
ulars of the various parts of the Tower, but it is of 
little use to attempt to follow them during the brief 
time allotted by the warder to an inspection of the 
place. 

Entering by the Lion Gate from Great Tower Hill, 
which is on the west, the visitor is first brought to the 
ticket-office. Unless it be a public, or "free" day 
(Monday or Saturday), which is especially to be 
avoided by every one who values personal comfort 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 169 

above a shilling, he here purchases two tickets — one 
admitting to the Armory and White Tower, and the 
other to view the crown jewels — for a sixpence each. 
Parties of from a dozen to a score are then taken in 
charge by one of the warders, or "beef-eaters," as 
they are popularly called, this latter title having been 
corrupted from buffetiers, attendants at the royal table, 
or buffet. These officials, mostly old soldiers, are 
properly termed Yeomen of the Guard, and they con- 
tinue to wear the uniform or livery prescribed for that 
body as long ago as the time of Henry VII. — at the 
close of the fifteenth century. Very quaint and pic- 
turesque is the appearance of the " beef-eater," who 
escorts you through these gloomy gateways and 
towers. He wears a belted yeoman's-coat, and em- 
broidered upon the breast are the rose, the thistle, 
and the shamrock, surmounted by the regal crown, 
and with the ribbon of the Garter below. A high ruff 
encircles his neck, and a peculiar low, bell-crowned 
hat, one of the most old-fashioned features of the 
whole dress, surmounts his head. Knee-breeches 
and shoes with enormous rosettes complete the ancient 
livery. In his right hand he carries a truncheon, or 
mace, terminating in a lance, or bayonet, and he also 
wears a sword. 

A stone bridge, flanked by two towers (the Middle 
and By ward) , leads across the moat, which can still be 
flooded by the garrison in case of need. On the left 



170 A SUMMER JAUNT 

is the Bell Tower, so called because it formerly con- 
tained the alarm-bell of the garrison. In this tower 
Queen Elizabeth is said to haye been imprisoned. 
Farther on, to the right, is the Traitor's Gate, leading 
up from the Thames : 

" That gate misnamed, through which before, 
Went Sidney, Russell, Ealeigh, Cranmer, More." 

— Rogers's Human Life. 

This gate is under the St. Thomas Tower, a large 
square building, constructed over the moat, with a 
round tower on either side. On the opposite side is 
a gateway under the Bloody Tower, which leads to 
the Inner Bail or Court. In the centre of this inner 
enclosure stands the White Tower, a large, square, 
stone edifice with' a high square tower at each corner. 
On the north side of the enclosure are the Wellington 
Barracks, a spacious modern edifice, and in close 
proximity to it, in the north-west corner, is the old 
chapel of St. Peter ad Vincula, which was restored a 
few years ago. Nearly, if not quite all the line of 
inner towers, twelve in number, were formerly prison 
lodgings. Within the Bloody Tower, the young 
princes, Edward V. and the Duke of York, were 
murdered by order of their wicked uncle, Richard, 
Duke of Gloucester, in 1483 ; and in the neighboring 
Record, or Wakefield Tower, now the depository of the 
jewels and regalia of the crown, Henry VI. is said to 
have been murdered by the same cruel tyrant. In the 



THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 171 

Bowyer Tower (so called because it was once the resi- 
dence of the master, Provider of the King's Bows), 
the Duke of Clarence, brother of Edward IV., is sup- 
posed to have been drowned in a butt of Malmsey 
wiue, in 1471. Lady Jane Grey is said to have been 
imprisoned in the Brick Tower, while Lord Guildford 
Dudley, her husband, with his father and brothers, 
were confined in the Beauchamp Tower, where many 
other famous prisoners have also lodged. The walls 
of this last-named tower bear a great number of in- 
scriptions, carved in the stone by the unhappy prison- 
ers. The armorial devices of several noble houses 
may still be seen, although the prisoners who executed 
them knelt before the headsman centuries a<2fo. The 
name of "iaxe," cut, as it is supposed, by Lord 
Guildford Dudley, in token of love for his unfortunate 
wife, may also be seen. In front of the Beauchamp 
Tower stood the execution block. A laree number of 
executions, however, were performed outside the 
walls, on Tower Hill. The Devereux Tower, at the 
north-west angle of the wall, was where Kobert 
Devereux, the Earl of Essex, and favorite of Queen 
Elizabeth, was confined. Secret passages led from 
this tower to the vaults of St. Peter's Chapel and to 
the Beauchamp Tower. 

Among the eminent persons interred in the little 
chapel are the following : Sir Thomas More, beheaded 
in 1535 ; Queen Anne Boleyn, beheaded in 1536; 



172 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex, beheaded in 1540 ; 
Margaret Pole, Countess of Salisbury, beheaded in 
1541 ; Queen Catherine Howard, beheaded in 1542 ; 
Lord Admiral Seymour of Sudeley, beheaded in 
1552 ; John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Duke of 
Northumberland, beheaded in 1553 ; Lady Jane Grey 
and her husband, beheaded in 1554 ; Robert Dever- 
eaux, Earl of Essex, beheaded in 1601 ; Sir Thomab 
Overbuiy, poisoned in the Tower in 1613 ; Sir John 
Eliot died as a prisoner in the Tower in 1632 ; 
James Fitzroy, Duke of Monmouth, beheaded in 
1685 ; and Simon, Lord Fraser of Lovat, beheaded in 
1747, the last victim of the block in England. Of 
these, Anne Boleyn, Catherine Howard, Lady Jane 
Grey and Devereux, Earl of Essex, only, were 
executed within the Tower walls. 

Macaulay, in referring to this chapel, says : "In 
truth there is no sadder spot on earth than this little* 
cemetery; death is there associated, not as in West- 
minster Abbey and St. Paul's, with genius and virtue, 
with public veneration and with imperishable renown ; 
not, as in our humblest churches and churchyards, 
with everything that is most endearing in social and 
domestic charities, but with whatever is darkest in 
human nature and in human destiny, with the savage 
triumph of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, 
the ingratitude, the cowardice of friends, with all 
the miseries of fallen greatness and of blighted fame." 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 173 

Among the many other prisoners confined in the 
Tower, at different times, were the following : Flam- 
bard, Bishop of Durham, incarcerated by Henry I., 
in 1100, and the first state prisoner of whom there is 
any record ; John Baliol, king of Scotland, 1296 ; 
William Wallace, the Scottish patriot, 1305 ; David 
Bruce, king of Scotland, 1347 ; King John of France, 
1357 ; Prince James of Scotland, 1405 ; Duke of 
Orleans, father of Louis XII. of France, 1415 ; 
Lord Cobham, burned as a heretic at St. Giles's-in- 
the-Field, 1416; King Henry VI., supposed to have 
been murdered by the Duke of Gloucester, 1471 ; 
Anne Askew, tortured in the Tower and burned in 
Smithfield as a heretic, in 1546 ; Archbishop Cran- 
mer, 1553 ; Sir Thomas Wyatt, beheaded on Tower 
Hill in 1554 ; Earl of Southampton, Shakespeare's 
patron, 1562; Sir Walter Raleigh, thrice imprisoned 
in the Tower, and finally beheaded at Westminster in 
1618 ; Earl of Strafford, beheaded in 1641 ; Viscount 
Stafford, beheaded in 1680 ; Lord William Russell, 
beheaded in 1683 ; Lord Chancellor Jeffreys, 1688 ; 
the Seven Bishops, 1688 ; Duke of Marlborough, 
1692; Sir Robert Walpole, 1712; John Wilkes, 
1762; Lord George Gordon, 1780, &c. The last 
prisoners sent to the Tower were Arthur Thistlewood 
and his associates, who were brought here in 1820 for 
complicity in what was known as the " Cato Street 
conspiracy." 



174 A SUMMER JAUNT 

But we are getting over much more ground than 
our worthy guide, the "beef-eater," is likely to lead 
us. In fact, we have made a wide divergence ; for 
after passing under the Bloody Tower, we are con- 
ducted at once to the armories and the White Tower. 
The Council Chamber (where the abdication of Rich- 
ard II. in favor of Henry of Bolingbroke took place 
in 1399), the Banqueting Hall, and other rooms, con- 
tain large stores of small-arms arranged in various 
fanciful designs. The "Prince of Wales's wedding- 
cake" is reproduced in daggers and various small- 
arms. On the walls are passion-flowers wrought of 
glittering steel. Some sixty thousand stand of rifles 
are usually stored in this remarkable arsenal. We 
first enter the Horse Armory, a modern building 
erected outside the White Tower. The middle por- 
tion of the room is occupied by a collection of figures, 
on horseback and on foot, in complete suits of armor, 
chronologically arranged, dating from the reign of 
Edward I. (1272), to that of James II. (1685). 
There is also a large collection of arms and armor 
from other parts of the world. There are two effigies 
of Henry VIII. in armor, one suit of which is said to 
have been presented to that monarch on his marriage 
with Catharine of Aragon. The next apartment, the 
new armory, opened in 1851, contains various tro- 
phies, and a large collection of Oriental armor. Next 
entering the White Tower itself, we come to Queen 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 175 

Elizabeth's Armory, a small apartment on the first 
floor. At the upper end is an equestrian figure of 
Queen Elizabeth, and beside her is a page in the cos- 
tume of her reign. One sees here, also, a varied and 
blood-curdling collection of instruments of torture, 
such as the Iron Collar of Torment, the "Bilboes," 
the "Thimibikin" or "Thumbscrew," and the "Scav- 
enger's Daughter," nn infernal instrument, not inaptly 
termed " The Devil's Master-piece," for confining the 
whole body. The old block of execution, unused 
since Lord Lovat lost his head on Tower Hill in 1747, 
occupies a prominent place, and beside it is the fatal 
axe. The room also contains a great number of ancient 
military weapons, some of which are very curious. On 
the north side of this apartment is a low doorway lead- 
ins: to a dark cell in which Sir Walter Raleigh was con- 
fined for a period of twelve years. This room is only 
ten feet long by eight feet wide. It was here he is 
said to have written his "History of the World." 
During his confinement here his wife for much of the 
time lodged in a house on Tower Hill, but one of her 
sons was born within the Tower. Leaving Queen 
Elizabeth's Armory, we are conducted to the chapel 
of St. John, by a winding stairway, at the foot of 
which the bones of the murdered princes, now en- 
tombed at Westminster Abbey, were found. The 
chapel, with its massive pillars and cubical capitals, 
its wide triforium, its apse borne by stilted round 



176 A SUMMER JAUNT 

arches, and its barrel- vaulted ceiling, is one of the 
finest and best preserved specimens of Norman archi- 
tecture in England. A large room adjoining the 
chapel is said to have been the scene of the arrest of 
Lord Hastings, when Richard, Duke of Gloucester, 
burst in upon the assembled councillors. 

Leaving the White Tower, the visitor is shown the 
place of execution and the Bealichamp Tower, of 
which mention has been made ; and lastly, he is taken 
to the Jewel House, a small circular room in the 
Wakefield Tower, with a cell adjoining it, now occu- 
pied by the attendant in charge, but probably once a 
prison. It is a suggestive place. The very stones of 
this gloomy old pile bear witness to the terrible cost 
of human blood at which these baubles were main- 
tained in ages past. On passing up a flight of steps 
and through a narrow passage, we find ourselves fac- 
ing a blaze of jewelry, enclosed in a glass case, with 
an outer cage of strong iron bars. The Imperial State 
Crown of Her Majesty Queen Victoria is a gorgeous 
piece of work, which is said to represent a money 
value of £111,900. The cap is of crimson velvet, 
with ermine border, and is lined with white silk. It 
is enclosed in bands of silver, and surmounted by a 
ball and cross, all resplendent with diamonds and 
other precious stones, among which are the " inesti- 
mable sapphire" purchased by King George the Fourth, 
and the heart-shaped ruby worn in the helmet of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 177 

Henry V. at the Battle of Agincourt. The erown 
contains no less than two thousand seven hundred and 
eighty-three diamonds. There are several other 
crowns exhibited, including the golden crown of 
Edward the Confessor, set with diamonds, rubies, 
emeralds, pearls, and sapphires ; the Prince of Wales's 
crown, of gold, without precious stones ; and the 
Queen Consort's crown, of gold, set with precious 
stones. Among the other articles in this marvellous 
collection are St. Edward's staff (an immense stick of 
gold, weighing about ninety pounds, and said to con- 
tain within its rounded top a portion of the true 
cross) ; the Queen's diadem (made for Mary d'Este, 
consort of James II. ) ; the Royal sceptres of the Cross 
and the Dove ; the Queen's sceptre ; Queen Mary's 
sceptre ; the Queen's orb, of gold and precious stones ; 
the swords of justice and mercy ; the coronation brace- 
lets ; the ampul ia (a golden vessel for containing the 
"holy oil" used at coronations) ; the anointing spoon 
(supposed to be the sole relic of the ancient regalia) ; 
the salt-cellar of state (a curious golden model of the 
White Tower) ; the twelve golden salt-cellars (like 
the preceding used only on the occasion of a corona- 
tion upon the banqueting table of the sovereign; ; 
the silver wine-fountain presented to Charles II. by 
the corporation of Plymouth ; the silver baptismal 
font used at christenings of the royal family, &c. 
The entire value of the jewels and regalia is said to 
be over £3,000,000. 



178 A SUMMER JAUiST 

On leaving the Tower one shudders anew at the 
place of execution on Tower Hill, to which so many 
victims have been led from within these cruel old 
walls. On the east side of Tower Hill stands the 
Royal Mint; on the north, Trinity House, an ancient 
institution for 'the promotion and encouragement of 
English navigation, and having certain rights in gov- 
erning the maritime affairs of the nation ; and on the 
south side is the tunnel under the Thames (con- 
structed in 1870, and now used by pedestrians only), 
known as the Tower Subway. The older tunnel, now 
used by the East London Railway Company, lies in 
that quarter of the metropolis called Wapping. Wil- 
liam Penn was born on the east side of Tower Hill, 
within a court adjoining London Wall ; and at a public- 
house near at hand, whither he had withdrawn to 
avoid his creditors, died Otway the poet. 

The British Museum is a vast subject in itself to 
treat upon, and a volume would be needed to ade- 
quately describe only its main features. The whole 
world and every age of man has contributed to its 
vast collections. The. buildings are situated in Great 
Russell Street, Bloomsbury, and cover some seven 
acres, the principal facade having a width of three 
hundred and seventy feet. The museum had its ori- 
gin in a private collection, made by Sir Hans Sloane, 
of objects of natural history and art, with an exten- 
sive library of books and manuscripts, said to have 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 179 

cost their owner £50,000. This was given to the 
government under certain conditions, upon his death, 
which occurred in 1753, and with the constant accu- 
mulations of books and objects of art and antiquity, 
was long exhibited in Montague House. 

The presentation, by George III. , of a collection of 
Egyptian antiquities, in 1801, and the purchase of the 
Townley marbles in 1805, and the Elgin marbles in 
1816, so increased the museum that a new wing was 
built; and when George IV. presented to it, in 1823, 
the King's Library, collected by George III., old 
Montague House was felt to be too small, and the 
present edifice (finished in 1847) was then built. 
The buildings were designed by Sir Robert Smirke, 
and many additions have been made to the original 
plan. The collections are again overrunning the 
accommodations, and many paintings have been re- 
moved, or are soon to be removed, to the National 
Gallery, while South Kensington is to be enriched by 
a removal of the splendid natural history collections. 
The library is of vast extent. The number of printed 
volumes is about a million, and there are vast collec- 
tions of manuscripts. The contents of the museum 
are at present arranged in twelve sections, each under 
the special superintendence of an under librarian, or 
keeper. These sections are as follows : — Printed 
Books, Manuscripts, Prints and Drawings, Maps and 
Plans, Oriental Antiquities, British and Mediaeval 



180 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Antiquities and Ethnography, Greek and Roman 
Antiquities, Coins and Medals, Botany, Zoology, and 
Mineralogy. 

The central quadrangle has been filled by the mag- 
nificent Reading-Room, which is not open to mere 
sight-seers. A large number of rooms, however, may 
be visited. The Greek and Roman antiquities com- 
prise the finest series in existence, and in every other 
department there is also great completeness. In the 
Roman Gallery are Roman antiquities discovered in 
Great Britain. In the GraBco-Roman Rooms are the 
celebrated "Townley Venus," from Ostia, the "Town- 
ley Dione," "Clytie," &c. The Lycian Room contains 
a series of monuments from the ancient cities of Lycia, 
in Asia Minor, brought to England by Sir Charles 
Fellowes. The Mausoleum Room contains the remains 
of the celebrated mausoleum from Halicarnassus, dedi- 
cated by Artemisia (about 352 b. c.) to the memory 
of her husband, Mausolos of Caria, one of the most 
magnificent monuments of the kind ever erected. The 
Elgin Room contains the most valuable collection in 
the world of specimens of Greek art at its best period. 
It was brought to England by the Earl of Elgin, and 
purchased from him by Parliament in 1816, for the 
sum of £35,000. The specimens consist principally 
of sculptures from the Temple of the Parthenon, the 
Erechtheum, and the Temple of the Wingless Victory, 
all on the Acropolis of Athens. The Parthenon was 



THROUGH THE OLD WOKLD. 181 

built about 440 b. c, and all the sculptural decora- 
tions were by Phidias. In the Hellenic Eoom are 
numerous Grecian antiquities of various dates. The 
Assyrian Galleries contain the collections of sculp- 
tures excavated by Mr. Layard, Mr. Eassam, and 
Mr. Loftus. The Kouyunjik Gallery, the ]Nimroud 
Central Saloon, the Nimroud Gallery, and several 
other rooms, are filled with the fruits of Mr. Layard's 
extensive explorations in the East. The Egyptian 
Galleries contain collections from Memphis, Thebes, 
Alexandria, and Cairo, which vary in date from 2000 
to 640 b. c. Then comes the Glass Collection, the 
Yase Rooms, the .Bronze Rooms and the Gold Orna- 
ment Room, the latter of Avhich contains the famous 
Portland Vase, found near Rome. The British and 
Mediaeval Room is devoted chiefly to antiquities found 
in Great Britain and Ireland, and the Ethnographical 
Room contains an extensive collection of antiquities 
and modern objects illustrative of the African, Asiatic, 
American, and Australasian races. The Natural His- 
tory collections are extensive and fill numerous 
rooms. The Grenville Room contains a collection 
of 20,240 volumes bequeathed by Right Honorable 
Thomas Grenville, and containing some valuable 
specimens of books printed from carved blocks of 
wood. The Manuscript Room contains a great num- 
ber of valuable and interesting manuscripts, auto- 
graphs, &c. In one case may be seen the autographs 



182 A SUMMER JAUNT 

of the English sovereigns, as far back as Edward 
IV., and of many celebrated foreign monarchs ; 
in another, the autographs of the world's famous 
artists, writers, warriors, and philosophers ; and in still 
another, the will of Mary Queen of Scots, a book of 
prayers copied out by Queen Elizabeth, and some texts 
of Scripture in the handwriting of Edward VI. The 
original Magna Charta, given by King John in 1215, 
and royal documents of still older date (including 
some a thousand years old), may also be seen. There 
are also manuscripts of Milton, Pope, Burns, Scott, 
Dickens, Torquato Tasso, and many others. Adjoin- 
ing the Manuscript Room is the King's Library, con- 
taining 80,000 volumes. In this collection are some 
of the earliest printed books in German, English, 
Italian, and French, including issues from the presses 
of Gutenberg, Faust, SchofFer and Caxton. The first 
printed Bible, printed by Gutenberg and Faust at 
Maycnce, in 1455, may here be seen. There are in 
the museum no less than 1,700 different editions of the 
Bible. The Print Room contains a fine collection of 
original drawings and engravings, but is not open to 
sight-seers. Its treasures may be availed of, however, 
with but little trouble, by persons engaged in artistic 
pursuits or studies. 

Another institution in the examination of which 
days and weeks might profitably be spent, is the 
South Kensington Museum, situated in that part of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 183 

the metropolis called Brompton, and but a little dis- 
tance from Hyde Park. It -is best reached by the 
Metropolitan Railway, a station of which is within 
four minutes' walk. This collection was originated 
by the late Prince Consort, and was established with 
the aid of the profits of the Great Exhibition of 1851. 
Its object is the promotion of art and science, by 
means of the systematic training of teachers, the 
foundation of schools of art, public examinations and 
distributions of prizes, the purchase and exhibition of 
objects of art, and the establishment of art libraries. 
It is carried on at an annual expense of about £300,- 
000, which is defrayed by the government. There 
are schools of art in all the principal towns of the 
kingdom, which are connected with the parent institu- 
tion, and at Bcthnal Green, five miles east of Charing 
Cross, is a branch museum, established in 1872, for 
the benefit of the great industrial population of the 
East End. The South Kensington collection includes 
paintings, sculpture, goldsmiths' work, jewels and 
enamels, porcelain, pottery, terra-cotta, glass, metal 
work, mosaics and marquetry, carved ivories, musical 
instruments, furniture, textile or woven fabrics, 
leather work, &c. It is useless in the present con- 
nection to attempt a description of the numerous and 
extensive courts and galleries, or of any of the won- 
ders contained therein. Every department is arranged 
with intelligence and taste, and there are the amplest 



184 A SUMMER JAUKT 

facilities for study as well as observation. This great 
museum is open free three days in the week, and dur- 
ing the remainder of the week (called students' days) 
the public can gain admission — and relief from the 
crowds — by the payment of a sixpence. Tickets of 
admission to the museum, including admission to the 
Art Library and Educational Reading-Room, and also 
to the Branch Museum at Bethnal Green, are issued 
at only sixpence a week, three shillings a quarter, or 
ten shillings a year. Many valuable gifts and bequests 
have been made to the institution, including the 
Sheepshanks collection of paintings, the Ellison col- 
lection of water-colors, the Dyce collection of paint- 
ings, drawings, engravings, and books, and the Forster 
collection of paintings, drawings, books, and manu- 
scripts (including the originals of some of Dickens's 
works). The exhibition includes also various loan 
collections which are, of course, liable to be changed 
from time to time. During 1878 two fine collections, 
loaned by Earl Spencer and W. Fuller Maitland, Esq., 
M. P., were to be seen. Among the pictures are 
celebrated works by Copley, Hogarth, Landseer, 
Leslie, Turner, and other British artists, and a few 
noteworthy foreign paintings, including the famous 
Raphael cartoons, seven in number, formerly exhibited 
at Hampton Court, and sent here by order of the 
Queen. These cartoons are drawn in crayon, on 
strong paper, and colored in distemper, and they are 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 185 

ranked among the finest works of the great painter. 
The subjects are scriptural, and they were executed 
in 1515 and 1516, by order of Pope Leo X., as copies 
for tapestry. There were originally ten cartoons, but 
three have been lost. Dr. Schliemann's collection of 
antiquities from Troy, forms an interesting part of the 
exhibition, and like everything else, is admirably 
arranged. 

Near the South Kensington Museum is the Museum 
of Patents, which contains among other interesting 
objects, models of some of the earliest railway, marine, 
and stationary engines ever constructed. The National 
Portrait Gallery, and the East India Museum, are 
also upon the opposite side of Exhibition Eoad, where 
there are also entrances to the Royal Horticultural 
Gardens. 

On the Hyde Park side of the Horticultural Gar- 
dens, within their enclosure, and with its main en- 
trance from Kensington Eoad, stands the noble Royal 
Albert Hall; and opposite, within the boundaries of 
Hyde Park, or the old boundaries of Kensington Gar- 
dens, rises the beautiful Albert Memorial. Both were 
designed by Sir G. Gilbert Scott. The Albert Memo- 
rial was erected at a total cost, including the sculpture, 
of £120,000, and consists of a Gothic canopy 175 
feet high, richly decorated with mosaics by Messrs. 
Clayton and Bell, and Salviati of Venice, and resting 
on four clustered pillars of red granite. Beneath the 



186 A SUMMER JAUNT 

canopy is the colossal bronze statue, fifteen feet high, 
of Prince Albert, by the late John Foley. This shrine 
rises from a sculptured base, which is adorned with 
two hundred life-size portrait statues, in high relief, 
of the greatest men in science, art, and literature the 
world has produced, by J. P. Philip and H. Armstead. 
A double quadrangular pyramid of steps of gray Irish 
granite leads up to the Memorial, at the lower corners 
of which are four colossal marble groups, viz: "Eu- 
rope," by MacDowell, "Asia," by Foley, "Africa," by 
Thecd, and "America," by John Bell. Above them 
on the platform are smaller symbolic groups of " Agri- 
culture," by Calder Marshall, "Manufactures," by 
Weeks, "Commerce," by Thornycroft, and "Engin- 
eering," by Lawlor. The monument is one of the 
most beautiful objects of its kind in the world. 

My visit to the Royal Albert Hall was so timed that 
I listened to an excellent concert on the organ, given 
by Mr. Thomas Pettit. The Hall is in the form of a 
vast amphitheatre in the Italian Renaissance style, and 
will seat about ten thousand people. It cost £200,000, 
and occupies the site of Gore House, once the resi- 
dence of William Wilberforce, and afterwards of the 
celebrated Lady Blessington. The organ, built by 
Willis, is the largest in the world. It has four banks 
of keys, and one hundred and thirty stops, of which 
number about one hundred and fifteen are speaking 
stops, the pedal manual having no less than four reg- 



THEOUGH THE OLD WOBLD. 



187 



isters of thirty-two feet pipes. The whole number 
of pipes is over eight thousand. The cost of the in- 
strument was less than seven thousand pounds, or a 
little more than half as much as the great organ in 
Boston Music Hall. Mr. Pettit, who- is an excellent 
performer, played the following admirable programme : 



March, " Tannhauser," . 
Pastorale, " Light of the World," 
Offertoire in C minor, . 

a, Sketch, > . 

b, Schlummerlied, 5 
Overture, " Zanetta," . • 
Eomauza alia Pastorale, 
Fugue in G major, 
Marche Funebre, . 
Lied (Book 5, No. 6), . . 
Soldiers' Chorus, " Faust," . 



Wagner. 
Sullivan. 
Batiste. 

Schumann. 

Auber. 
Handel. 

Krebs, 
Chopin. 
Mendelssohn. 
Gounod. 



els the recently 



On the west side of Albert Hall stai 
erected building of the National School of Music. 
The buildings, which enclose the Horticultural Society's 
Gardens on three sides, were used from 1871 to 1874 
for the International Exhibition. The Crystal Palace 
of 1851 (now standing at Sydenham, where it was 
enlarged) stood in Hyde Park, a short distance below 
the Albert Memorial. A large building in rear of the 
Horticultural Gardens is soon to receive the Natural 
History collections from the British Museum. 

While at South Kensington, and on the return 
therefrom, Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens may 
best be seen. The latter lie at the western extremity 



188 A SUMMER JAUNT 

of the park, and comprise two hundred and forty-five 
acres. On the western side is Kensington Palace, where 
Queen Victoria was born, and where some members 
of the royal family still reside. The palace was built 
in part by William III., and both that monarch and 
his consort Mary died there, as did also Queen Anne 
and her husband, Prince George of Denmark, and 
George II. Opposite the palace, on the south side of 
Kensington Road, is a magnificent mansion, called 
Kensington House, recently built, and quite lately 
sold to Mr. Mackey, the California millionaire. The 
cost of the house and its site is said to have been over 
£500,000, and it is not surprising that the original 
owner was compelled to give the property up to his 
creditors. Hyde Park is one of the great lungs of 
London, and at certain hours of the day, while the 
fashionable season lasts, which is during the months of 
May, June, and July, its walks and drives present a 
series of very brilliant scenes. "Rotten Row," which 
is supposed to be a corruption of Route du Hoi, — a 
rather significant change surely, — is the place where 
equestrians disport themselves. The fashionable driv- 
ing and riding hours in the park are from about twelve 
to two, and from five to seven. Hyde Park encloses 
three hundred and eighty-eight acres, and, previous to 
the time of Henry VIII. , its site belonged to the old 
manor of Hyde, one of the possessions of Westmin- 
ster Abbey. The Serpentine is an artificial sheet of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 189 

water of considerable extent, reaching far into both 
Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, and upon its 
north bank is the drive called the "Ladies' Mile." 
The Serpentine is a great resort for bathers (before 8 
o'clock, a. m., and after 8 o'clock, p. m.), and for 
boating in summer, and for skating in winter. The chief 
entrances to the park are at its eastern extremity, by 
the triple arch at Hyde Park Corner, and by the 
Marble Arch at Cumberland Gate. Near the latter, 
the Tyburn Gallows formerly stood ; and near the 
former, is Apsley House, which was occupied by the 
Duke of Wellington. In the latter neighborhood are, 
two other noteworthy memorials of the Iron Duke ; 
viz., an equestrian statue which surmounts the arched 
entrance to Green Park, and the statue of Achilles, 
erected in his honor, just within Hyde Park, by the 
ladies of England. Along the east side of Hyde 
Park, runs Park Lane, where many fine mansions are 
situated. 

Green Park (sixty acres) and St. James's Park 
(fifty-eight acres) lie east of Hyde Park, and thus is 
a continuous tract of park-country, extending over 
seven hundred and fifty acres, formed in the midst of 
busy London. Around these smaller enclosures are 
the residences of many of the nobility, and on one 
side of St. James's Park are many of the government 
offices. Here, too, Royalty resides; for at the top of 
Constitution Hill, and facing the broad avenue lead- 



190 A SUMMER JAUNT 

ing through St. James's Park, rises the stately Buck- 
ingham Palace, the town residence of Queen Victoria. 
Near at hand is St. James's Palace, long a royal 
abiding place, and in the chapel of which Queen 
Victoria was married; and Marlborough House, built 
by the first Duke of Marlborough, and now occupied 
by the Prince of Wales, is near the eastern extremity 
of St. James's Park. Clarence House, the residence 
of the Duke of Edinburgh, lies west of St. James's 
Palace. In the same vicinity is Stafford House, the 
town residence of the Duke of Sutherland, containing 
a fine collection of paintings, which, however, are not 
to be seen except by special permission of the pro- 
prietor. Entrance to the picture galleries of Bucking- 
ham Palace may be had on written application to the 
Lord Chamberlain, during the Queen's absence only. 
The Royal Mews, or stables, situated near the palace, 
may also be visited by written permission. Over one 
hundred horses are kept here, and the magnificent 
state carriage, built in 1762, at a cost of £7, 6 GO, but 
now seldom used, is also to be seen. An interesting 
account of a visit to these stables was written in a let- 
ter to the Manchester (N. H.) " Daily Mirror," by Mr. 
Arthur E. Clarke, a member of the Tourjee party. 

Among the other great parks of London are 
Regent's " Park (406 acres), which contains the 
Zoological Gardens, the finest collection of its kind 
in the world, and also the Botanical Gardens; Victo- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 191 

ria Park (223 acres), containing the handsomest 
public fountain in London, the gift of Miss Burdett- 
Coutts ; Battersea Park (199 acres) ; and Finsbuiy 
Park (120 acres). There are many smaller public 
parks, and most of the squares (said to aggregate 
over 300 acres) are planted with trees, shrubs, grass, 
and flowers. These latter enclosures are in many 
instances accessible only to residents of the vicinity. 
The assertion has been made that there are only 
twelve streets in London from which some patch of 
green is not visible. However this may be, the vis- 
itor to London is sure to be surprised and delighted 
by the frequency with which he comes upon little 
parks and gardens, often in places where they would 
least be expected. The same love of nature seems to 
animate all classes to a considerable extent ; and in 
some quarters of the town every window is a bower 
of floral beauty. 

Akin to the public parks are the handsome Thames 
Embankments, which have done so much to beautify 
the riverside. The Victoria Embankment extends 
along the north bank of the Thames, from Blackfriars 
Bridge to Westminster, a distance of over a mile and 
a quarter. There is a macadamized carriage-way 
sixty-four feet wide, with a foot pavement sixteen feet 
broad on the land side, and one twenty feet broad by 
the river. The wall by the water is eight feet thick. 
Part of the land reclaimed from the river has been 



192 A SUMMER JAUNT 

laid out in tasteful gardens, and lines of trees are 
planted its entire length. There are several statues, 
at different points, and here, too, that remarkable 
monolith known as Cleopatra's Needle, has at length 
found a resting-place. Constructed more than three 
thousand }^ears ago, it was erected as one of six 
gigantic pillars which stood before the Temple of the 
Sun at the city of On in ancient Egypt. Centuries 
ago it fell prostrate, and it remained thus until its 
recent removal to England. During its transporta- 
tion from Egypt, in a vessel erected around it, a 
storm arose, and it had to be abandoned, as it was 
thought to be foundering. It was recovered, how- 
ever, and safely towed to London, where it arrived 
Jan. 20, 1878. At the time of our visit the Needle was 
lying upon the bank, near Waterloo Bridge, but it has 
since been raised to an upright position. Within the 
pedestal was placed a jar containing Bibles in English, 
French, and Arabic ; a Hebrew Pentateuch, and a 
verse from the third chapter of St. John, printed in 
two hundred and fifteen different languages. The 
inscriptions for the obelisk were prepared by Dr. 
Birch and Dean Stanley. The principal inscriptions 
(facing the roadway and the river, respectively) give 
a succinct account of this remarkable object, and they 
are as follows : — 

This Obelisk 

Was Quarried at Syene, and erected at On 

(Heliopolis), by Thothmes III., 

About 1500 B. C. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 193 

Further Inscriptions Were Added Two Centuries 

Later by Rameses II. (Sesostris) 

Removed to Alexandria, the Royal City of 

Cleopatra, 

It was Erected There in the Seventh Year of 

Augustus Caesar, B. C. 26. 

Transported to England and Erected on 

This Spot 

In the Forty-Second Year of 

Queen Victoria 

By And 

Erasmus Wilson, F. R. S. John Dixon, C. E. 

This Obelisk 

Having Fallen Prostrate in the Sand at 

Alexandria, 

Was, in Grateful Remembrance 

Of Nelson and Abercromby, 

Presented to the British Nation, A. D. 1819, 

By Mohammed Ali, Viceroy of Egypt. 

Encased in an Iron Cylinder it was Rolled 

Into the Sea 

August 29, 1877. 

Abandoned in a Storm in the Bay of Biscay, 

It was Recovered and Taken into Ferrol Harbour, 

Whence, in Charge of Captain Carter, 

It Reached the Thames, 

January 20, 1878. 

This is the second instance where a colossal obelisk 
has been transported from the shores of Africa to 
another part of the world, the first having been the 
memorable enterprise of Louis Philippe in removing 
the obelisk of Luxor to the centre of the Place de la 
Concorde in Paris, in 1836. 

Beneath the Victoria Embankment, for its entire 
length, run three tunnels. The inland one is used by 



194 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the Metropolitan District Railway, and the outer two, 
situated one above the other, are utilized in one 
instance as an intercepting sewer, and in the other 
for holding gas-pipes, water-pipes, and telegraph 
wires. The Embankment has lately been lighted by 
electricity. 

The Albert Embankment is on the opposite side of 
the Thames, which is here some four hundred yards 
wide. It extends from Westminster Bridge to Vaux- 
hall Bridge, a distance of about four-fifths of a mile. 
Adjacent to it rises the extensive St. Thomas's Hospital, 
and also Lambeth Palace, the London residence of the 
Archbishop of Canterbury. The Chelsea Embank- 
ment is further up the river on the north side. 

One of the best ways to see London — or much of 
it — is to make one or two trips on the Thames in the 
little steamers which ply up and down the stream with 
great frequency. By starting from London Bridge and 
going up the river to Chelsea, St. Paul's, Somerset 
House, Cleopatra's Needle, the Houses of Parliament, 
St. Thomas's Hospital, Lambeth Palace, Chelsea Hos- 
pital, the several Embankments, and all the chief 
bridges are passed. Of the bridges the Waterloo is 
the finest. It is 1,320 feet long, and cost over one 
million pounds. Boats also run to Putney, Hammer- 
smith, and Kew Gardens, and on certain days as far as 
Richmond and Hampton Court. Kew Gardens are said 
to contain the finest botanical gardens in the world, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 195 

and Bichmond is also a much frequented and very 
beautiful resort. 

A trip down the river from London Bridge affords a 
view of the shipping and of the great lines of ware- 
houses which tell of the wealth and commercial influ- 
ence of the great city. Below that point there are at 
present no bridges, but one is contemplated at Little 
Tower Hill. The Port of London, in a general sense, 
extends from London Bridge to a point six and a half 
miles below, but most of the shipping is found era- 
braced within a distance of four miles, or above Dept- 
ford. About fifty thousand vessels enter and leave the 
Thames every year, and the scene presented on the 
river, and at the great docks (which are chiefly on the 
north side of the Thames), is, one of unexampled 
activity. Ships bearing the produce of every nation 
under the sun are here seen. St. Katherine's Docks 
have an extent of 24 acres, and no less than 1,250 
houses, with 11,300 inhabitants, were displaced to make 
room for them. London Docks cover an area of 120 
acres, and cost the enormous sum of £4,000,000. In 
conjunction with these is a kiln, popularly known as 
the "Queen's Tobacco Pipe," where adulterated tea and 
tobacco, and other confiscated goods are burned. The 
Commercial Docks comprise 50 acres ; the West India 
Docks 300 acres ; the Millwall Docks 100 acres ; the 
Victoria Docks are nearly two miles in length; and 
there are in addition the Surrey and the East India 



196 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Docks. In going down the river, too, many interesl 
ing objects are passed, including Billingsgate Market, 
the Custom-House and The Tower. At Greenwich, 
six miles below London Bridge, are the celebrated 
Greenwich Hospital for aged and disabled seamen, and 
Greenwich Park, containing the Koyal Observatory, 
from the meridian of which all English astronomers 
make their calculations ; and at Woolwich, three miles 
further down the river, is England's great military 
establishment, which includes a great number of build- 
ings used as workshops, magazines, barracks, &c. 
The Arsenal covers an area of 100 acres, and gives 
employment to 10,000 men. Greenwich is greatly 
resorted to on account of its "white-bait" dinners. 
The Greenwich Hospital, established in 1794, occupies 
the site of an old ro}^al palace in which Henry VIII. 
and his daughters Mary and Elizabeth were born. 

The Bank of England and the Royal Exchange, 
w T hich are in close proximity to each other within the 
Old City of London, are well worth a visit if the 
stranger has time to devote to them, although there are 
many things to first claim his attention. The Bank, 
popularly called the "Old Lady of Threadneedle 
Street,'' is an isolated series of buildings, covering an 
area of about four acres. The bank vaults usually 
contain from fifteen to twenty million pounds sterling 
in gold and silver. The business offices of the Bank 
are accessible to the public from nine o'clock until 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 197 

three, but special orders have to be obtained for visits 
to the printing, weighing, and bullion departments. 
The Koyal Exchange has an imposing fagade, and in 
front is Chan trey's equestrian statue of Wellington. 
The business of the Exchange is conducted in an open 
quadrangular court, which is surrounded by a colon- 
nade. In the centre is a statue of Queen Victoria, by 
Lough, and there are also statues of Queen Elizabeth, 
Charles II., Sir Thomas Gresham (the founder of the 
first Exchange) , and others. In rear of the Exchange, 
in Threadneedle Street, is a fine statue of George 
Peabody, by Story, erected by public subscription 
in 1871. 

Some members of our party found time for excur- 
sions to Windsor Castle, to Hampton Court, to Green- 
wich and Woolwich, and to other places of interest 
outside London ; and many of them visited the Crys- 
tal Palace at Sydenham. The Crystal Palace, opened 
upon its present site in 1854, and constructed in the 
main of the materials used in the exhibition buildings 
in Hyde Park three years previous, constitutes, with 
its magnificent gardens, two hundred acres in extent, 
one of the noblest pleasure-resorts in the world. It 
lies in the county of Surrey, adjacent to the borders 
of Kent, nearly a dozen miles from the city, and may 
be reached by several different railway lines. There 
is a High Level service and a Low Level service. 
Most of us went out on the day of the Band of Hope 



198 A SUMMER JAUNT 

fete, when a crowd of over seventy thousand persons 
was assembled, although some members of the party 
preferred to remain in town and witness the popular 
demonstration in honor of Lord Beaconsfield, on his 
return from the successful peace negotiations at Ber- 
lin. Taking a High Level train at Ludgate Hill 
station, an important connection on the Metropolitan 
line of railway, and also one of the chief starting 
points of the London, Chatham, and Dover line, we 
crossed the bridge at Blackfriars, and were soon roll- 
ing along on a level with the tile-roofs and chim- 
neys on the Surrey side. The red tile-roofs, which 
have to. a great extent lost their original tints, on 
account of the smoke, and the queer-looking chimney- 
pots which tower above them, singly, in groups, and 
in colonies, form interesting objects for study after 
the traveller has been journeying through subterra- 
nean London. Soon the more open country is 
reached, but there is not much time to enjoy the bright 
prospects of garden, field, and suburban villas, before 
the tall towers and lofty glass roof of the Crystal 
Palace are in the foreground. 

The length of the main structure of the Crystal 
Palace is one thousand six hundred and eight feet, 
and there are also two wings of five hundred and 
seventy-four feet each, and a colonnade of seven hun- 
dred and twenty feet. The whole area enclosed by 
the building is six hundred and three thousand and 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 199 

seventy-two feet. The height of the nave is one hun- 
dred and ten feet and three inches, and of the central 
transept, one hundred and seventy-four feet and three 
inches ; and there are two great water-towers, two 
hundred and eighty-four feet high. The interior, or 
a large part of it, is a sort of bazaar, where almost 
anything may be purchased. There are also a number 
of courts (the Egyptian, Roman, Alhambra, Byzan- 
tine, Mediaeval, Renaissance, Italian, &c.), each with 
its special exhibitions of sculpture, architecture, an- 
tiquities, and other objects ; and in galleries are paint- 
ings, a technological museum, and various other fea- 
tures of more or less interest — generally less ; for in 
spite of many interesting objects, the Crystal Palace 
collections have a cheap look, after the well-arranged 
cabinets of the British and South Kensington muse- 
ums have been examined. There are also within the 
palace the Handel Orchestra, where great choral con- 
certs are given ; a concert-room, a theatre or opera- 
house, an aquarium, and a skating-rink. The gardens 
are beautifully laid out, and include lakes, lawns, 
cricket-grounds, archery-grounds, and delightfully 
shaded nooks, as well as broad walks and a profusion 
of flowers. Here, too, is situated the series of foun- 
tains, claimed to be the finest in the world, and cer- 
tainly not excelled by anything of their kind, except 
possibly by the fountains in the park at Versailles. 
The great fountains are played only on great occa- 



200 A SUMMER JAUNT 

sions, like fete days, and then only for a short time. 
In a "grand display," one hundred and twenty thou- 
sand gallons of water are thrown up every minute, and 
some of the jets rise to a height of over two hundred 
feet. One of these extraordinary displays was in- 
cluded in the Band of Hope fete, and was well worth a 
journey from London to see. The programme of the 
fete also included two great choral concerts, by five 
thousand children, in the Handel Orchestra ; four great 
temperance meetings, one of which was presided over 
by Mr. John M. Cook, of the firm of Thomas Cook 
& Son, the excursion agents; a competitive con- 
cert by brass bands ; several organ concerts ; several 
entertainments by bell-ringers ; a race between two 
balloons, the " Excelsior" and " Crusader ; " a cricket- 
match, and various other contests in athletic sports ; 
the illumination of the palace ; and aerial perform- 
ances by the Hanlon-Voltas. All these features could 
be enjoyed, together with indefinite rambles through 
the palace and grounds, for the modest sum of one 
shilling — about twenty-four cents in American money. 
The two concerts by the children formed a very inter- 
esting feature. A different chorus, each numbering 
five thousand voices, took part, members of the 
provincial Bands of Hope appearing at 2 o'clock, 
and members of the metropolitan organizations at 
6.30 o'clock. The conductor at both concerts was 
Mr. Frederick Smith, and the organist Mr. F. J. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD, 



201 



Kead, Mus. Bac. The singing at the first concert, 
the only one I chanced to hear, was excellent, the 
young voices being heard with admirable effect in 
songs of a simple character. The programmes, which 
contained several temperance songs and choruses by 
American composers, were as follows : — 



First Concert. 



Song of Triumph. 

Cry out and Shout. . 
Safe and Strong. 

Life's Battle-field. . 
The Child's Pleading. 

Escape from the City. 
God is near Thee. 
The Green Little Islands. 
The Gushing Rill. . 
The Skylark's Song. . 
Look not upon the Wine. 

The Happy Farmer. . 
Sleighing Song. . 
Meet me at the Fountain. 
National Anthem. 



Words by W. J. Harvey ; Music 

by A. S. Sullivan. 
Music by P. P. Bliss. 
Words and music by Rev. Alfred 

Taylor. 
Music by Offenbach. 
Words by John Guest ; Music by 

W. F. Sherwin. 
Music by Flotow. 

Words by M. B. C. Slade. , 

Music by Woodbury. 

Music by Mendelssohn. 

From John Tregenovveth ; Music 

by Rev. R. Lowry. 
Music by Schumann. 
Music by G. F. Root. 
Words and music by P. P. Bliss. 



Opening Hymn. . 

In Jewry is God known. 
Touch not the Cup. . 

Sound the Loud Timbrel. 



Second Concert. 

. Words by W. J. Harvey ; Music 

by F. Foster. 
. Dr. J. Clarke Whitfield. 
. Words by Rev. E. P. Hood ; Music 

by J. R- Sweeney. 
. Words by Thomas Moore ; Music 

by Avison. 



202 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Departure Words by W. Bartholomew ; Music 

by Mendelssohn. 
Drink Water Words by W. J. Harvey; Music 

by W. D. Bradbury. 
Escape from the City. . . Music by Flotow. 
Dash it Down Words and music by Rev. R. 

Lowry. 
God is Near Thee. 

O Hasten from the Busy Town. Music by H. R. Palmer. 
The Social Glass. . . . Words by Stowe ; Music by L. 

Cooke. 
Song of the Gipsies. . . . Music by J. E. Seward. 
Meet me at the Fountain.. . Words and music by P. P. Bliss. 
National Anthem. 



As the musical and fashionable London season was 
not over at the time of our visit, there were opportu- 
nities to attend the opera at both Covent Garden and 
Her Majesty's Theatre. At the former, Adelina Patti 
and Mdlle. Albani were singing, and at the latter, 
Mme. Etelka Gerster, the Hungarian songstress, who 
has since created a furore in our own country, as 
she had already succeeded in doing in England. The 
theatres of London, as a general thing, are both 
smaller and much less brilliant in appearance than 
the chief playhouses in our large American cities. A 
new National Opera House has been begun on the 
Thames Embankment, near Westminster Bridge, but 
all operations upon it have for some time been sus- 
pended for want of funds. 

On one of the days of our visit to London, a 
spectacle was presented which was by no means a 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 203 

familiar one to the eyes of the natives themselves. 
It was a sight of Boyalty. It was on the afternoon of 
Saturday. Learning that the Queen was to attend a 
garden fete, given by the Prince of Wales, at Marl- 
borough House, I stationed myself at the top of 
Constitution Hill, opposite Buckingham Palace, where 
Her Majesty was sure to pass on her way from Pacl- 
dington station when she arrived from Windsor. 
There had been a state ball at Buckingham Palace 
the evening previous, by command of the Queen, 
who, however, was not present. The garden fete, 
like the state ball, assembled a vast concourse of the 
nobility, and an interesting ho in- was passed in scan- 
ning the elegant equipages as they rolled by and up 
the mall of St, James's Park. A timely "tip" of a 
shilling to a gatekeeper of Buckingham Palace, who 
was aiding the policemen in their duties of keeping 
the carriage-way clear, served to establish the identity 
of the leading- people who passed. In some cases, 
earls, dukes, and even members of the royal family 
made less show than representatives of the lesser 
world who were only out for an airing, and could not 
even boast the honor of an invitation to the* fete. 
Among those who passed during the period of our 
stay, were the Duke of Connaught, the Grand Duke 
and Duchess of Hesse (the Princess Alice) and their 
children, the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg Strelitz, 
the Prince and Princess Christian of Schleswig, the 



2U4 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Duke and Duchess of Teck, the Duke of Cambridge, 
the Princess Louise (who had been to Buckingham 
Palace to visit her sister, the Princess Alice, but did 
not attend the fete given by her brother, on account 
of the recent death of her husband's mother, the 
Duchess of Argyle), Lord Cairns (the Lord High 
Chancellor), and no end of noble personages. To- 
wards five o'clock, there was a sudden stopping of 
carriages on the road in front of Buckingham Palace, 
and soon thereafter the royal cortege came around the 
corner from Hyde Park way at a galloping gait. First 
came a mounted policeman, then a small detachment 
of the Guards, resplendent in red and gold uniforms, 
and seated on coal-black steeds ; next a rush of four 
pairs of spirited and handsome black horses attached 
to the royal carriage (an open barouche) , a momentary 
vision of a pleasant-faced, stout, elderly lady in black, 
and two younger ones in brighter colors, with two 
servants, — one of them John Brown, — perched upon 
the seat behind ; last of all another detachment of the 
Guards, and the whole imperial turnout was gone. 
The Queen might readily be recognized from her 
later portraits. She was accompanied on this occasion 
by the Princess Beatrice, and one of her ladies in 
waiting. As she rode by, the bystanders, of whom 
there were by this time quite a large crowd, respect- 
fully raised their hats. Much respect was also shown 
the Grand Duke of Hesse and his family, the Prince 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 205 

and Princess Christian, and the Duke and Duchess of 
Teck. The children of the latter, and also of the 
Grand Duke of Hesse and Princess Alice, who were 
several times driven by, invariably acknowledged the 
salutes of the crowd, the boys lifting their hats. 

It has been said that a visit to London is incomplete 
without hearing the celebrated preacher, Spur- 
geon. Few Americans who go to London depart 
without listening to his eloquence. The Tabernacle, 
where he preaches, has five thousand sittings, and is 
always filled. It is situated in Newington Butts, on 
the Surrey side of the Thames, but a short distance 
from the Elephant and Castle, which, besides being a 
celebrated inn, is a well-known omnibus centre, and 
also a railway-station. Thither a large number of our 
excursion-party went Sunday morning, while others 
visited St. Paul's to hear a choral service, or West- 
minster Abbey to hear Dean Stanley, reserving their 
visit to Mr. Spurgeon's Tabernacle until the evening 
service. 

Mr. Spurgeon's voice is rich and powerful, and he 
has a style of eloquence peculiarly his own. He is 
very magnetic, and never fails to hold the undivided 
attention of his vast congregation. There is no organ 
in the church, and the singing is wholly congregational, 
and of the most inspiring order, for the reverend gen- 
tleman's hearers cannot resist becoming enthusiastic 
under his influence. Mr. Spurgeon is an energetic 



206 A SUMMER JAUNT 

worker, and his success has been very marked. 
He seems to possess the love and confidence not only 
of his great circle of fellow-worshippers, but of the 
whole surrounding community. Even the omnibus- 
drivers speak of his goodness and his well-known 
charity in enthusiastic terms. 

Behind the Tabernacle is the Pastor's College, one 
of Mr. Spurgeon's earliest enterprises, and one which 
he regards as his favorite work. It began with a 
single pupil, and now has nearly one hundred. Chapels 
all over the country, and even in the colonies, call on 
the college for a supply of pastors. In connection 
with the college is a loan-fund, the object of which is 
to assist, by gift or loan, without interest, in the build- 
ing, enlargement, or repair of chapels in which former 
students of the college officiate. Another noble insti- 
tution, which owes its existence to Mr. Spurgeon, is 
the Orphanage, situated near the Clapham Road, and 
containing accommodations for two hundred and fifty 
children. The system upon which this is conducted is 
based, as far as possible, on the model of the family 
circle. The school is conducted in classes, and the 
boys feed at a common table, but they live together in 
little colonies of from thirty to forty-six, a separate 
house being provided for each colony, or family. 
These houses are, as the inscriptions indicate, gifts 
from various sources. There is " The Merchants' 
House," "The Workmen's House" (the funds for 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 207 

which were mainly subscribed by a firm of builders and 
their workmen), "The Unity House" (erected by a 
husband in memory of his wife), and "The Silver 
Wedding House " (built, as the inscription testifies, 
in gratitude to God for twenty-five years of happy 
wedded life). 

At Mr. Spurgeon's Sunday School, one of the Amer- 
ican visitors, Rev. O. D. Kimball, of Leominster, 
Mass., was invited to address the children. 

As already mentioned, our party was divided into 
Hve different sections upon its arrival in London. 
These different bodies left England at different times ; 
the first, second, and third divisions (or, as Mr. Cook 
chose to designate them, the "Italian," and the first 
and second " Swiss ") entered upon the Continent in 
the direction of Antwerp, and the two others proceeded 
first to Paris, reversing the order of Continental travel 
pursued by the others. As the writer was a member of 
the fifth (or fourth "Swiss") section, the narrative of 
travel will be continued in the succeeding chapters in 
accordance with the route it pursued. All the divi- 
sions visited the same places, but, as already indicated, 
three sections took them in different order than is here 
laid down, and, so far as the passage of the Rhine and 
the tour of Switzerland are concerned, in a more 
preferable course.. The movements of the several 
divisions, other than the fourth " Swiss," are detailed 
in later chapters. „ 



208 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER V. 

FRANCE. 

Leaving London for Paris — The Route via Newhaven and Dieppe 

— Crossing the English Channel — A Famous French Watering- 
Plaee — The Railway Ride through Normandy — Rouen — The 
Valley of the Seine — Entering Paris — The Hotel Bedford — 
The Boulevards — The Cafe's — The Fortifications — The Sew- 
ers — How the Paris Streets are Cleaned — The Champs Elys6es 

— The Place de la Concorde and its History — The Ohelisk of 
Luxor — The Arc de Triomphe — The Bois de Boulogne — 
The Church of the Madeleine — The Church of Notre Dame — 
Ancient Lutetia — The Palais de Justice and Sainte Chapelle — 
The Morgue — The Hotel Cluny -*- The Pantheon, &c. 

Our division, which was under the leadership of 
Dr. Tourjee, and the conductorship of Mr. W. H. 
Smith, a representative of Messrs. Thomas Cook & 
Son, left London for Paris on tho morning of Wednes- 
day, July 17, going by the way of Newhaven and 
Dieppe. We were taken from our hotel to the London 
Bridge Station, the terminus of the Brighton and 
South Coast Eailway, a full hour before the time the 
train was to start. The American traveller quickly 
learns in Europe, that when transportation, by rail is 
in consideration, he is expected to be not only on 
time, but considerably ahead of it. Under ordinary 
circumstances there are various preliminaries to be 



THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 209 

gone through with in the way of purchasing a ticket, 
and seeing to the luggage, which must be "lifted" by 
a porter, and perchance weighed if there is a proba- 
bility that the trunk or portmanteau runs above the 
free-luggage limitation. Fortunately these details 
were attended to by our conductor, and we had the 
entire time to examine the not-over-attractive station, 
and to read the time-cards. Every passenger must be 
in his seat some minutes before the train starts, or he 
is left behind. The " last man " has no chance to run 
after the moving train and swing on to a platform, as 
with us, and consequently one class of accidents not 
uncommon in America, is wholly guarded against. 

The distance from London to Newhaven (Avhich 
lies a few miles east of the famous watering-place of 
Brighton) is 56 miles, and the railway runs through 
very pleasant portions of Surrey and Sussex. The 
principal towns upon the line are Croydon, ten miles 
out, and Lewes, a few miles above Newhaven. 
Brighton is a place of much more importance than 
either, having a permanent population of over 100,000, 
and an annual influx of 50,000 summer visitors. It 
is by far the most frequented seaside resort in the 
British Islands. The South Down Hills, which stretch 
along the coast for a considerable distance, are reached 
north of Newhaven. A few miles east is a bold head- 
land called Beachy Head, beyond which lie Eastbourne 
and Hastings, both seaside resorts, and northward of 



210 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the promontory of Dungeness, are Folkestone and 
Dover, the two latter places, like Newhaven, being 
the English ports of departure for important lines of 
Continental travel. The Newhaven and Dieppe route 
has a longer sea-voyage (65 miles) than the other 
lines, but there is an advantage in this, inasmuch as 
the " chop sea " often encountered in the narrow part 
of the Channel is sometimes avoided, while the route 
by rail from Dieppe to Paris, is said to be much pleas- 
anter and far more interesting in every way than the 
more northern routes. 

We embarked on a small but comfortable little 
steamer, in company with a goodly number of other 
passengers, mainly "first-class," who were, for the 
most part, on their way to the Paris Exposition. We 
had anticipated all sorts of uncomfortable sensations 
in crossing the Channel, for a placid sea is rare there- 
abouts. Happily we were disappointed. In mid- 
channel there was a gentle swell, but aside from this 
the water was smooth and far from disagreeable. A 
third of the way across, after the English cliffs had 
faded in the summer haze into an indistinct line, we 
ran into a fog-bank, but we emerged from its obscurity 
sometime before reaching the French shore. 

We saw scarcely a vessel until the neighborhood of 
Dieppe was reached. This ancient Normandy town 
was formerly — say three centuries ago — the most 
flourishing seaport in France, but Havre has robbed it 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 211 

of its ancient prestige. It had, in that remote period, 
sixty thousand inhabitants, and its ships penetrated to 
various parts of the globe, some of its sons becoming 
celebrated navigators. One of these worthies, the 
sturdy old Admiral Duquesne, who beat the Dutch 
Admiral de Ruyter, off the coast of Sicily, is com- 
memorated by a statue in one of the public squares of 
the town, and by another at Versailles. The perma- 
nent population of the place is not now more than one- 
third what it was three hundred years ago, and its 
maritime importance is confined wholly to fishing. It 
is, in fact, one of the chief fishing-ports of France, 
and daily sends large supplies of the finny tribe to 
both Eouen and Paris. It is likewise a great place of 
fashionable resort in the warm season, and its plage or 
sea-beach is lined with hotels and handsome villas. It 
also has an extensive Etablissement ties Bains, a hand- 
some, fanciful building, where may be found not only 
a conversation-room, a reading-room, and general 
lounging facilities, but also a ball-room, and a small 
theatre, where Parisian companies play during the 
summer. In front are the bath-houses, or tents, and 
toward the town is a bazaar. The town itself is quite 
compact, and is situated at the mouth of the river 
Arques in a depression between two high ranges of 
chalk cliffs which here line the coast. » These cliffs are 
nearly as tall, and quite as white as their English 
neighbors on the other side of the Channel, and pre- 



212 A SUMMER JAUNT 

sent a very picturesque appearance on the approach 
from the sea. 

Entering the harbor, which comprises a series of 
basins, we land on a quay adjacent to the railway sta- 
tion ; but as Neptune's complacent mood has brought 
us across his domain ahead of schedule time, we have 
about an hour to stroll through the quaint streets and 
out upon the beach. As we are booked through, to 
Paris, the examination of our personal effects (now 
termed "bagages" and not "luggage") by the customs 
officials, will take place there instead of at Dieppe, but 
the passport official must interview us. The passen- 
gers file past that officer, from whom the announce- 
ment of V Americain or V Anglais elicits the politest of 
smiles and an intimation to pass on without further 
hindrance. Passports are not required from either 
American or English travellers. 

The west part of the town is inhabited chiefly by 
fishermen, but to that section which is said to be the 
oldest and quaintest part of Dieppe, we did not pen- 
etrate, as we had landed upon the opposite side of the 
basins, and a walk thither would have occupied too 
much time. The houses are comparatively modern, for 
the reason that the place was destroyed in 1694 by the 
English, who were returning from an unsuccessful 
attack on Brest. On a precipitous cliff, beyond the 
bathing establishment and the bazaar, rises an old 
castle, now used simply as barracks. It was erected 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 213 

in 1433 as a means of defence against the English. 
Within its walls Henry IY. of France retreated before 
the army of the Roman Catholic League, and found 
shelter ; and a few miles distant is the castle and battle- 
field of Arques, where that same monarch gained his 
signal victory over the League. A short distance up 
the coast from Dieppe is an ancient camp, by some 
supposed to be Roman, and by others Gallic. 

The distance from Dieppe to Paris, via Rouen, is 
about one hundred and twenty-five miles, and the line 
is a part of the Chemin de Fer de L' Ouest, which also 
extends to Havre, Cherbourg, and other important 
points. The express trains, with but few stops en 
route, make the distance in about four hours. The 
first-class railway carriages were found to be luxurious 
in their appointments, and the journey was very agree- 
able, except for the prevalence of dust. Shooting out 
of Dieppe and through a long tunnel, we emerge into 
the valley of the little river Scie, which the railway 
crosses a score or more of times. The scenery is 
picturesque and very pleasing. We are in the 
country, but pleasant little villages are scattered along 
the stream, some of them rising to greater show and 
importance than the others, on account of a cotton- 
mill or two. We catch many glimpses of the homes 
of the farmers as we rush past their thatched cottages 
and barns. Throughout Normandy the apple-tree 
takes the place of the vine, and cider is the bibulous 



A SUMMER JAUNT 

stimulant instead of wine-. The orchards have a very 
pretty and homelike effect, as they stretch out their 
lines of trees upon the plains and hillsides. Out in 
the fields the women are gathering the hay-crop, 
which is here, as in England and Scotland, quite 
heavy. In all parts of the Continent, as well as in 
some parts of Great Britain, the women do most of 
the out-door work, exercising their "rights" with a 
freedom and vigor that should put the men to blush. 
Many of the women wear the quaint and pretty Nor- 
mandy caps. The hedge-rows and charming stretches 
of woodland remind the traveller of England. The 
plains, especially in the vicinity of the larger towns, 
are studded with gaunt poplars, which stretch away 
along the roadside in geometrical lines, adding a 
strange but by no means unpleasant feature to the 
scenery, though rows of spreading elms would be 
more welcome. The ruins of some ancient castles are 
seen along the route, and near the station of St. 
Victor, at the head of the Scie, there was formerly an 
abbey, which was founded by William the Conqueror. 
From the Scie the railway passes through a long and 
deep cutting, to the Valley de Cleres, and soon joins 
the line between Rouen and Havre. 

The approach to Rouen, a rich and populous city, 
which has attained great commercial importance on 
account of its cotton manufactures, is clearly indicated. 
But little do we see of the "Manchester of France" 




JOAN OF ARC'S TOWER, ROUEN. 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 215 

from the cars. The railway provokingly traverses 
one of its lines of boulevards, through a long tunnel, 
and even the station has burrowed down in a chalk 
hill, out of sight of its surroundings. There are tun- 
nels on both sides of it, and not until the train has got 
beyond the city, on its way to Paris, is the traveller 
gratified by a view of the place. With its suburbs, 
Rouen contains one hundred and fifty thousand inhab- 
itants, and its outskirts are a mass of factory chim- 
neys. There are two great churches, with high 
towers, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, and the hand- 
somer church of St. Otien. The former has an iron 
spire, of rather ungainly appearance, which rises to the 
immense height of four hundred and eighty-two feet. 
The principal parts of the Cathedral date back to the 
early years of the thirteenth century. The church of 
St. Ouen, which* is termed one of the most beautiful 
Gothic structures in existence, was founded in 1318. 
Its chief tower is two hundred and sixty-eight feet 
high. The Place de la Puce lie is where Joan of Arc 
was so cruelly burned at the stake in 1431, and in a 
museum of antiquities the "lion heart" of Richard 
Cceur de Lion is kept, together with many relics of 
the Roman period and of the Middle Ages. 

At Rouen we are about one hundred miles from the 
sea at Havre, by the tortuous course of the river 
Seine, although the railway line thither is scarcely 
more than half as long. The railway to Paris follows 



216 A- SUMMER JAUNT 

the general line of the river, but is also much shorter 
than the winding stream, which at several points 
makes huge bends and loops. The distance traversed 
by the cars is eighty-six miles. The scenery is more 
varied than it is between Dieppe and Rouen, and the 
views much more extended, as the river broadens the 
prospect and opens up some glorious vistas while the 
train bends away from the stream or towards it 
again. The chief towns through which the road 
passes are Vernon, Mantes, and Poissy, all of which 
are places of historic interest. A few miles from the 
little station of Gaillon, upon one of the bends of the 
Seine, stands an ancient castle, formerly one of the 
finest in Normandy, and the favorite residence of 
Francis I. Tunnels are numerous on the line, and 
generally intervene just as the traveller endeavors to 
scan some pleasant bit of scenery. A dozen miles or 
so from Paris the train passes through the Forest of 
St. Germain, and but a few miles north of the old 
town, to which, however, a branch line extends. The 
Seine is crossed several times in the course of the 
journey, finally between Asnieres and Clichy, which 
are in the suburbs of Paris. 

It was not far from six o'clock when we rolled into 
the station of St. Lazare, between eleven and twelve 
hours from London ; and after a brief detention by 
the custom-house officers, we were on our way in 
omnibuses provided expressly for our accommodation, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 217 

to the neat and comfortable Hotel Bedford, which is 
situated between the Eue de l'Arcade and the Hue 
Pasquier, a short distance from the Church of the 
Madeleine. Here we found Mr. Bruce's division (the 
third " Swiss ") , from whom we had been separated in 
London, and who had preceded us on the journey by 
twenty-four hours. Sixty or seventy Americans were 
certainly enough to impart a decidedly foreign aspect 
to the hotel and its pleasant courtyard ; and the few 
French guests must have regarded with wondering 
eyes and ears the gathering throng. An excellent 
dinner served to render the new comers comfortable 
and contented ; and some of the party were all ready to 
begin their inspection of Paris. The greater number, 
however, chose to fortify themselves with sleep 
against the morrow, when their round of sight-seeing 
would begin in real earnest. 

Paris, during the summer of 1878, was crowded 
with strangers, drawn thither chiefly by the Great 
Exposition ; but the historic and beautiful city itself 
formed the greater exhibition. The stranger who finds 
himself in Paris for the first time is at once struck by 
its broad and well-shaded boulevards, by the beauty 
and attractiveness of its numerous shops, and by the 
gayety and animation of its out-door life. The boule- 
vards, and many of the lesser thoroughfares, are lined 
with cafes; but the drinking, smoking, and lounging 
are done at little tables upon the sidewalk. The liquids 



218 A SUMMER JAUNT 

most dispensed are beer (in Paris denominated hoc) 
and light French wines. These beverages are ex- 
tremely mild in their influence, and an intoxicated 
person is not often seen in public. During the early 
part of the day the cafes, as well as the boulevards 
and gardens, are deserted, for the Paris day does not 
begin till noon, that is, in fashionable estimation; but 
in the afternoon and evening crowds are seen every- 
where. Compared with London, which is grave and 
sombre, Paris is light, cheerful, and frivolous. The 
crowds of pleasure-seekers certainly suggest frivolity 
and self-indulgence. The thousands of workers, of 
course, are not seen except on holiday occasions, — 
Sundays for example, — when they manifest at gar- 
dens and other public resorts a very similar disposi- 
tion to the more aristocratic classes. There are cafes 
for the poor as well as the rich, and these are crowded 
like the rest, especially in the evening. If the Paris 
day begins late, and the true Parisian does not break- 
fast until twelve o'clock, it also ends late. Midnight 
finds the Champs Elysees and the chief boulevards as 
brilliant and almost as animated as during the early 
evening, and a ride about the city at any time during 
the first half of the night is full of interest, since 
many of the shops, as well as the cafes, theatres, ball 
'and concert gardens, and the avenues themselves, are 
ablaze with lights. The Place de la Concorde, and 
the new Avenue clc l'Opera, are made almost as bright 
as day by the new electric light. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. * 219 

The system of the boulevards is of quite ancient 
origin, hut to the late Emperor, and to Baron Hauss- 
mnnn, the former enterprising Prefect of the Seine, 
much of its present development is due. In the year 
1670, during the reign of Louis XIV., the Grand 
Monarque, under whose fostering care Paris began to 
assume- both greatness and splendor, the bulwarks, 
or fortifications (in other words boulevards) were 
removed, and the moats filled up. On their site 
sprang up a line of avenues. Those on the right 
bank of the Seine, " Les Grands Boulevards,'" a term 
applied especially to the line of broad streets, nearly 
three miles in length, leading from the Madeleine to 
the Place de la Bastille, are unsurpassed for elegance 
anywhere in the world. The period that gave these 
magnificent avenues to Paris, created also the hand- 
some Tuileries Gardens, the Champs Ely sees, and 
the grand embellishments of Versailles. The first 
Napoleon carried out further stupendous street im- 
provements, besides giving to the city its great mar- 
kets, the Arc de Triomphe, <&c. ; and the recent 
Emperor still further embellished the beautiful city 
by building new avenues, and enlarging old ones. 
The original boulevards having been planted with 
trees, the term has been extended to all the new and 
broad streets thus beautified. The " Boidevards 
Exterieurs" mark the line of walls erected by Cal- 
onne, the minister of Louis XVI., for the purpose of 



220 A SUMMER JAUNT 

enabling the government to collect a tax on all pro- 
visions brought into the city. These wholly surround 
Paris, or rather the Paris of a century ago, for the 
line of fortifications is still further away from the 
heart of the great city. 

The river Seine runs through Paris, as the Thames 
does through London ; but the French bethought 
themselves much earlier than the English to make the 
river-front handsome and attractive. In Paris, as in 
London, many little steamers ply between different 
points on the river, though the omnibuses, tram-cars, 
and the voilures, all of which are very cheaf), furnish 
the chief means of intercommunication. The river- 
front throughout the city is walled, and along its 
banks are gardens and many of the most celebrated 
buildings of the city. The bridges, too, are very 
numerous, and in several instances very handsome. 
Paris is a very clean city, and its system of sewers is 
the most complete and effectual in the world. The 
main sewers are conducted through capacious tunnels 
under the streets, and may be navigated by boats, or 
in cars. The sewer itself is really a canal in the 
centre of the tunnel. At the top run the water-mains 
and telegraph wires, the latter enclosed in pipes, and 
there are walks upon the sides. Over the stream, or 
at the edges, are tracks upon which the cars run, the 
propelling power being men who walk upon the sides. 
These cars can also be made to do the work of cleans- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. ' 221 

ing the stream if desired, an attachment being placed 
upon the vehicle, fitting into the concavity, and thus 
the whole receptacle is swept out. The boats navigate 
the larger sewers. At one point, it is said, there is a 
netting for stopping the corks, millions of which are 
gathered annually and cleansed. It is gratifying to 
learn that this product is used, not in fresh bottles of 
wine, but for the manufacture of a compound to be 
placed between the walls of a house so that sounds 
cannot be heard from one room to another. 

The cleansing of the streets is done at night, or 
rather in the early hours of the morning — between 3 
and 6 o'clock in summer, and 4 and 7 o'clock in win- 
ter. At these times no less than 12,916,800 square 
yards of streets are swept. The refuse carts follow 
the sweepers, working from 6 to 8 o'clock in summer, 
and from 7 to 9 o'clock in the winter. The general 
charge of the work of street-cleaning is in the hands 
of the Prefect of the Seine, who has a staff for this 
special service of two chief engineers, one for each 
group of arrondissements, one group being subdivided 
into three sections, each under the charge of an exec- 
utive engineer, and the other into five sections, simi- 
larly supervised. Then there are further subdivisions, 
under superintendents and overseers, the engineers 
having, in all, at their disposal, a force of 2,200 men, 
950 women, and 30 children. Mechanical sweepers 
are also employed to a large extent. 



222 A SUMMEE JAUNT 

The streets of Paris are unquestionably the cleanest 
in the world. The entire expense of keeping the 
streets, ways, and squares of the great city in good 
order during the year 1878, was placed' at twenty- 
seven millions of francs, or about $5,400,000. The 
receipts of the public-way department amount to about 
twenty-four millions of francs a year. Every new 
building which is erected must pay so much per square 
foot. A balcony is taxed ten or twenty francs, ac- 
cording to its height from the ground, and there is a 
special tax for signs, lanterns, &c. The carriage- 
stands pay more than four millions francs for the priv- 
ilege. Each omnibus pays two thousand francs per 
annum, and the street cars fifteen hundred francs each. 
The bill-poster is taxed for his sign-boards ; the pro- 
prietors of cafes are taxed for the privilege given their 
patrons to sit on the sidewalk and drink their coffee ; 
the skating ponds are leased, and, in short, the muni- 
cipal fathers of Paris pick up an honest franc wherever 
they can find it. Perhaps the strangest part of all is, 
that the money seems to be honestly expended ; the 
system so prevalent in our own country of using the 
public funds for the enrichment of private purses 
being an unknown, or at least an uncultivated art. 

It must not be supposed that all the Paris streets 
and public ways are broad and capacious. Far from 
it. At many points along the grand boulevards a per- 
son has . only to step aside from the gay and busy 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 223 

throng to find himself almost immediately in some 
section of old Paris, where the byway is narrow and 
shadowy, and where the persons inhabiting the tall 
houses on either side might almost clasp hands across 
the thin division of space. But cleanliness is every- 
where apparent, the sanitary regulations being carried 
out systematically and effectually in all parts of the 
city. 

One of the noblest avenues in the whole world is 
through the Champs Ely sees, extending westward 
from the Place cle la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe 
de 1'Etoile, about a mile. The Champs Ely sees were 
originally laid out by Marie de Medicis in 1616 as a 
pleasure-ground. The good of the people was a later 
consideration. The wide driveways and promenades 
are lined with elms and lime-trees, and flanked by 
gardens, beyond which, on one side, are a line of 
handsome buildings, chiefly residences, while on the 
other is the Palais* cle lTndustrie, which served in 1855 
for the first Great Exhibition at Paris, and in which, 
during the months of May and June, the artists make 
their yearly displays of new paintings. There, too, 
the imposing ceremonies incident to the distribution of 
prizes at the Exhibition of 1878 took place. The 
Palais de 1'Elysee is upon the other side, with its front 
upon the Rue St. Honore, and its gardens extending 
down to the more public pleasure-grounds. This man- 
sion was erected in 1718, and was considerably 



224 A SUMMER JAUNT 

enlarged by Napoleon III. It has sheltered Mme. de 
Pompadour, Napoleon I., the Duke of Wellington, 
the Emperor Alexander, the Duchess de Berry, and 
latterly the Presidents of the Republic. Napoleon III. 
resided there while he was still President of the 
Eepublic, and until his elevation to the throne, when 
he removed to the Tuilerics. The principal gardens 
which arc embraced in the Champs Elysees lie at the 
easterly end, between the Place de la Concorde and 
the Pond Point, about half-way to the noble Arc de 
l'Etoile, which occupies a little elevation at the other 
end of this magnificent thoroughfare. During the 
afternoon and early evening, this is the fashionable 
drive and promenade, being on the way to the Bois de 
Boulogne, the great park of Paris. The end nearest 
the town more especially presents a very animated 
appearance. Qafes chantants, Theatres de Guignol 
(marionettes), restaurants, cake-stalls, and the like, 
are among the attractions, and they are largely patron- 
ized. Upon a side avenue, near at hand, is the 
famous — or rather infamous — Jardln Mabille. 

„On the opposite side of the Place de la Concorde, 
flanked by the Rue clc Rivoli (a paradise for ladies, and 
gentlemen also, who desire to indulge in "shopping*' 
excursions) and the river Seine, are the handsome 
Tuileries Gardens, beyond which are the ruins of the 
Palace of the Tuileries, the latter still forming a fierce 
reminder of the fury of the Communist mobs of 1871. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 225 

The Place de la Concorde is one of the most famous 
public squares in Europe, not only on account of the 
taste shown in its adornment, but also by reason of its 
historic associations. In the centre of the square rises 
the beautiful Obelisk of Luxor, one of two noble 
monuments which formerly stood in front of the great 
temple of Thebes, where- they were erected by Barn- 
eses III., 1550 years b. c. It was presented by the 
Pasha of Egypt to Louis Philippe, and removed from 
Egypt to its present resting-place at great cost. The 
sarcastic Parisians say that this object cost them four 
francs per pound, its weight being estimated at five 
hundred thousand pounds. The Obelisk is a monolith, 
or single block, of reddish granite or syenite, seventy- 
six feet in height. It rests upon a pedestal which is 
approached by steps, the elevation of the whole monu- 
ment being one hundred and five feet. There are 
three vertical rows of hieroglyphics on each side of the 
monolith, laudatory of King Kameses II. , still Avell 
defined, although they were carved over three thousand 
years ago. The Obelisk occupies a much finer site 
than the similar monument recently erected on the 
banks of the Thames in London. 

Historically, too, this very spot has special interest. 
The peaceful name by which the Place is known seems 
a mockery, for here stood that terrible instrument of 
decapitation, the guillotine (removed here from the 
Place de Grevc where it was first set up at the recom- 



226 A SUMMER JAUNT 

mendation of the physician Guillotin). From the 21st 
of January, 1791, to the 3d of May, 1795, upwards of 
two thousand eight hundred persons perished here, 
and of the number were Louis XVI. (the first victim), 
Charlotte Corday, the ill-fated Queen Marie Antoinette, 
Louis Philippe (Duke of Orleans and father of King 
Louis Philippe), the Princess" Elizabeth Marie Helcne 
(sister of Louis XVI. ), Ilcbert, Danton, Robespierre, 
Camille Dcsmoulins, and many other well-known his- 
torical figures. The Place had seen some stirring 
scenes previous to the Revolution, although it remained 
only waste ground up to within a little more than a 
century ago. A bronze statue of Louis XV. was 
erected here in 1748, but on the 11th of August, 1792, ■ 
the clay after the capture of the Tuileries, it was 
removed by order of the Convention, and turned into 
pieces of two sous. On the 30th of May, 1770, dur- 
ing an exhibition of fireworks in honor of the marriage 
of the Dauphin (afterwards Louis XVI.) with the 
Arch-duchess Marie Antoinette, a panic was caused by 
the premature discharge of some rockets, and no less 
than twelve hundred persons were crushed to death, or 
killed by being thrown into the ditches which then 
surrounded the Place, while two thousand more were 
severely injured. 

In the present century the Place cle la Concorde has 
also witnessed strange scenes. On the 10th of April, 
1814, a solemn service was performed here in presence 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 227 

of the Emperors Francis and Alexander, and King 
Frederick William III., in memory of Louis XVI., 
after which a Te Deum was sung as a thanksgiving 
for their victory. On that occasion Prussian and Rus- 
sian troops were bivouacked in the Champs Elysees. 
The following year brought a camp of English soldiers. 
In March, 1871, Prussian troops once more occupied 
the Champs Elysees and the Place de la Concorde, and 
in the month of May following, there took place in 
the latter a most desperate struggle between the 
Versailles troops and the Communists. A formidable 
barricade had been erected in the adjacent Rue Royale, 
in front of the Church of the Madeleine, and the 
Communists thus commanded the Place. They were 
driven back, although not until all the neighboring 
houses were riddled with bullets and shells. Most of 
the damage, however, was committed by the Com- 
munists themselves, the miscreants desiring to take 
revenge upon the wealthy residents of the neighbor- 
hood. Houses w T ere fired, and firemen were caught 
pouring petroleum into the doomed buildings from 
their engines. In one instance, seven persons who 
had taken refuge in a cellar were burned to death, and 
in a neighboring maison tVaccouchment twenty-two of 
the helpless patients are supposed to have perished in 
the flames. These fiendish scenes were enacted on 
the 2 2d and 23d of May, and on the latter date, three 
hundred of the insurgents, who had been driven from 



228 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the barricades, took refuge in the church, but the 
troops soon forced an entrance, and shot every one of 
the party down. Although one of the beautiful foun- 
tains in the Place de la Concorde, and also one of the 
statues were greatly injured in the conflict which took 
place in front of the barricades, the Obelisk of Lnxor 
fortunately escaped. The fountains are two in num- 
ber. One is dedicated to the seas, and the other to 
the rivers, and the series of stone figures are emblem- 
atical of the chief towns of France, outside Paris. 
Lille and Strasbourg are by Pradier ; Bordeaux and 
Nantes, by Calhouet ; Rouen and Brest, by Cortot ; 
and Marseilles and Lyons, by Petitot. 

The Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile, at the other end 
of the beautiful Champs Ely sees, is an imposing struct- 
ure, whether seen through any of the twelve ave- 
nues which radiate therefrom, or directly in front. 
In 1806, Napoleon I. formed the idea of erecting four 
triumphal arches in different parts of the city, to com- 
memorate his victories. Two only of these were 
ever finished. This one was completed by Louis 
Philippe in 1836, and the small arch in the Place du 
Carrousel, in rear of the Tuileries, was built wholly 
by the first Napoleon. The Arc de l'Etoile cost over 
nine millions of francs, and consists of an arch ninety- 
five feet high and forty-six feet wide, intersected by a 
transversal arch fifty-nine feet high and nineteen feet 
in width. The whole structure is one hundred and 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 229 

sixty feet in height, one hundred and forty-six feet in 
width, and seventy-two feet in depth. The facades 
are embellished by groups representing some of 
Napoleon's great victories, or emblematical of the 
heroism of the famous soldier and of the French 
people. These are by Eude, Lemaire, Cortot, Seurre, 
Etex, Chaponniere, Gechter, Marochetti, Pradier, 
and others. Several of the groups are very finely 
executed. The continuation of the Avenue des 
Champs Ely sees, beyond the Arc de 1'Etoile, is called 
the Avenue de la Grande Armee, and to the south of 
this is another grand thoroughfare, the Avenue du 
Bois de Boulogne, which forms one of the main 
approaches to the noble park of the same name. 
This beautiful pleasure-ground covers an area of two 
thousand two hundred and fifty acres, and extends 
nearly out to St, Cloud. It contains the Jarclin 
dAcclimatation, and the race-course of Longchamps. 
The fortifications of Paris skirt the Bois de Boulogne 
on the city side. These ramparts are twenty-one 
miles in extent, and completely surround Paris. 

We chanced to be housed but a short distance from 
the Church of the Madeleine, and consequently in a 
very central location for sight-seeing excursions. The 
famous church itself was, of course, one of the first 
objects to attract our attention. It is a majestic struct- 
ure and stands in an open space where its handsome 
proportions may be seen to good advantage. Its 



-230 A SUMMER JAUNT 

form is that of a Greek temple, three hundred and 
fifty feet in length and one hundred and forty-seven 
feet wide, surrounded by Corinthian columns fifty-two 
feet in height. Sixteen of these columns support the 
pediment of the south facade, fifteen are upon each 
side, and eight support the north portico. The whole 
structure rests upon a basement about twenty feet in 
height, and is approached by a broad flight of steps. 
The niches in the Avail of the south facade contain 
thirty-four statues of saints, and the tympanum con- 
tains a high relief of vast dimensions, by Lemaire, 
representing the Last Judgment. This group is 
one hundred and twenty-five feet in length and 
twenty-three feet in height. The figure of the Sav- 
iour in the centre is eighteen feet in height. The 
building of the church was begun in 1764, and in 
1806 Napoleon commanded its completion as a Temple 
of Glory, with the inscription, " U empereur Napoleon 
aux solda/s de la grande armee." Louis XVIII. altered 
this plan and proposed to make the edifice an expia- 
tory church to the memory of Louis XVI., Louis 
XVII. , Marie Antoinette, and the Princess Elizabeth. 
The construction of the church was again interrupted 
by the Revolution of July, 1830, and it was not finally 
completed until 1842, by which time there had been 
expended upon it upwards of fourteen millions of 
francs ($2,800,000). The interior is lighted wholly 
by cupolas, and there are no windows upon the sides. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 231 

The bronze doors, thirty-five feet in height and six- 
teen feet wide, are adorned with illustrations of the 
Ten Commandments, by Triquetti, and seven years 
were occupied in their construction. The church 
contains some fine marble groups by Marochetti, Rude, 
and others. The bloody scene which was enacted 
within the church at the time of the fearful Commun- 
istic troubles, has already been referred to. 

The Church of Notre Dame attracts more attention 
from strangers than any other church edifice in Paris. 
This is one of the oldest Gothic churches in France, 
though far from being one of the most beautiful. It 
was founded in 1163, but the interior and facaxle 
were not completed until the early part of the suc- 
ceeding century. Its length is four hundred and sev- 
enteen feet, its width one hundred and fifty-six feet, 
and its nave has a height of one hundred and ten feet ; 
but notwithstanding these grand proportions, its gen- 
eral effect is not imposing, a fact attributable to its 
low situation, and to the absence of high spires, as 
well as to various lesser defects in design. The most 
striking part is the facade, which has a height of two 
hundred and twenty feet, including the two corner 
towers, and is divided into three stories. The lower 
story contains three pointed, receding portals, the sides 
of which are very elaborately sculptured. The centre 
portal represents the Last Judgment ; the one on the 
right is dedicated to St. Anne, and the one on the 



232 A SUMMER JAUNT 

left, which is generally used, is dedicated to the 
Virgin. This story is separated from the one above 
it by a gallery, or series of niches, containing modern 
statues of twenty-eight kings of France, from Chil- 
debert I. to Philip Augustus, copied from those at 
Eheims, the originals having been destroyed, with 
many of the other sculptures in the church, in 1793, 
when the edifice was converted into a "Temple of 
Reason." Above this gallery is a statue of the Virgin, 
a figure of Adam occupying a place upon the right, 
and one of Eve upon the left. The chief ornament 
of the second story is the magnificent rose window, 
forty-two feet in diameter. The third story is a gal- 
lery composed of pointed arches in pairs, borne by 
slender columns, each pair of arches being crowned 
by an open trefoil. Above this gallery runs an open 
balustrade, surmounted by figures of monsters and 
animals, and the facade terminates in tjie two massive 
square towers, each of which is about fifty feet in 
width. The towers are pierced by a pair of elon- 
gated windows. The south tower contains the great 
bell, which weighs sixteen tons. The interior, like 
the exterior, has been restored within the present cen- 
tury. There are numerous chapels, many of which 
contain handsome tombs. Near one of the portals 
are two slabs, upon which the names of seventy-five 
victims of the Commune may be read. Monseigneur 
Darboy, the venerable Archbishop of Paris, the Abbe 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 233 

Duguerry, cure of the Madeleine, three other priests, 
and Senator Bonjean, who were seized as hostages by 
the fiendish Communists, and finally shot in the court- 
yard of the prison of La Roquette, are buried here, 
having been removed from Pere-la-Chaise, where the 
bodies were ignominiously thrown into a trench. 
The chapels are in most cases dedicated to deceased 
archbishops and cardinals, two of whom, besides 
Archbishop Darboy, were murdered; viz., Monseign- 
eur Afire, who was shot in the outbreak of 1848, and 
Monseigneur Sibour, who was killed by an ex-priest 
in the Church of St. Etienne clu Mont, in 1857. In 
the treasury of the church are numerous relics, in- 
cluding what is claimed to be the crown of thorns, 
and also a fragment of the true cross. Similar relics 
are found in various parts of Europe. Among the 
ecclesiastical vestments are preserved the bloody gar- 
ments and other memorials of the murdered arch- 
bishops. The church contains a fine organ. The 
view from the tower of Notre Dame is considered the 
finest in the city, although the prospect from the Tour 
St. Jacques (all that remains of the old church of St. 
Jacques de la Boucherie, near the Rue de Eivoli) and 
from the Pantheon are very extended. 

The Church of Notre Dame, as w r ell as the Palais 
de Justice and the Hotel Dieu, is situated on the Isle 
de la Cite\ the most ancient part of Paris. The town 
of Lutetia existed here in the time of the Romans, 



A SUMMER JAUNT 



and previous to the beginning of the Christian era. 
At the time of the conquest of Gaul by Julius Caesar, 
this town was in existence as the stronghold of the 
Parisii. Christianity was introduced here by St. 
Dionysius (whose name has been abbreviated into St. 
Denys, or St. Denis), who came with six others from 
Rome to Gaul about the year 250, and suffered 
martyrdom on Montmartre, the Martyr's Hill. Popu- 
lar tradition credits St. Denis with having walked off 
with his head under his arm after decapitation. The 
Romans built many edifices in Paris ; but the only 
trace of them now remaining is the Palais des Thermes, 
near the Hotel Cluny, on the south side of the Seine. 
The latter is a mansion erected in the fifteenth century 
by the abbots of the wealthy Benedictine Abbey of 
Cluny in Burgundy. It is supposed to have been 
built upon the site of an ancient Roman palace, to 
which the baths were attached. The ancient edifice is 
believed to have been founded by the Roman Emperor 
Constantius Chlorus, who resided in Gaul from 292 
to 306, and it continued to be the residence of other 
sovereigns, including some of the early Frank mon- 
archs. The modern Hotel Cluny was also a royal 
residence ; but it is now a museum of antiquities. 

The Palais de Justice, as well as the Hotel de Ville, 
which was situated not far away on the right bank of 
the Seine, and the Palais des Tuileries, still further 
down the river, were seriously damaged by the Com- 




SAIXTE CIIAPELLE, PARIS. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 235 

munists, in 1871 ; but the ancient and beautiful Sainte 
Chapelle was happily saved from destruction. This 
chapel was founded in 1245, for the reception of the 
sacred relics which St. Louis is said to have purchased 
from Jean de Brienne, King of Jerusalem, and his 
son-in-law Baldwin, Emperor of Byzantium, consist- 
ing of the crown of thorns, fragments of the true 
cross, &c. These relics are now preserved at Notre 
Dame. The interior comprises two chapels, one 
above the other, the upper one having been intended 
for the court, and the lower for the attendants. The 
upper chapel contains some beautiful stained-glass 
windows, representing scenes from the life of St. 
Louis. 

The Morgue, where the corpses of unknown persons 
who have perished in the river, or in the streets, are 
exposed for identification, is situated in the rear of 
the Church of Notre Dame. This hideous place has 
between three and four hundred ghastly inmates 
annually. 

Another interesting church is the Pantheon. It 
occupies a commanding site not far from the Luxem- 
bourg, and is of the Gra3co-Roman style of architect- 
ure. A lofty dome makes it one of the most con- 
spicuous buildings in Paris. It occupies the site of 
a very ancient church, which was dedicated to Ste. 
Genevieve the patron saint of Paris, who was interred 



236 A SUMMER JAUNT 

here in 512. The present edifice was designed by 
Soufflot, and the foundation-stone was laid by Louis 
XV., in 1764. It was completed in 1790, and dedi- 
cated to Ste. Genevieve; but in 1791 the Convention 
decided to turn it into a Pantheon, and placed upon it 
the inscription, " Aux grands liommes la patrie recon- 
naissance." In 1822, the church was restored to its 
legitimate use ; but the July Eevolution of 1830 
caused another change, and the obliterated inscription 
was restored. lit 1853, it once more became the 
JEJglise Ste. Genevieve, and such it remains. The 
pediment above the portico contains a fine group of 
figures by David D'Angers, and the interior contains 
some fine frescoes. In the vaults, Mirabeau, Marat, 
Voltaire, and Eousseau were formerly buried ; but 
their bodies were long since removed. A remarkable 
echo is heard in the vaults. The dome, which is two 
hundred and sixty-seven feet above the ground, com- 
mands* a beautiful view of Paris. Near the Pantheon 
are the Library of Ste. Genevieve, and the Church of 
St. Etienne du Mont. 

There are many other churches worthy of a visit ; 
but I cannot stop to describe them. Among these are 
St. Sulpice, the richest of the churches on the south 
bank of the Seine, and containing a large and very 
fine organ ; St. Vincent de Paul, in the Place Lafayette, 
a handsome edifice in the Basilica style ; St. Koch, in 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 537 

the Rue St. Honore, where the music is especially 
fine; and St. Germain l'Auxerrois (near the Louvre), 
from the tower of which rang forth the preconcerted 
signal for the massacre of St. Bartholomew, on the 
24th of August, 1572. 



238 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER VI. 

FEANCE CONTINUED. 

The Louvre and its Treasures — The Arc de Triomphe du Car- 
rousel — M. Giffard's Captive Balloon — The Palais Royal — 
The Hotel des Invalides, and the Tomb of Napoleon — The 
Veudome Column — The Column of July — The Bibliotheque 
Nationale — The Grand Opera and the Opera Comique — The 
Conservatoire de Musique — The Cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise — 
The Park of the Buttes Chaumont — The Markets — A Peep at 
the Exposition Universolle — The Exhibition Buildings and the 
Arrangement of the Grounds — General Characteristics of the 
Display — Two National Concerts — An Excursion to St. Cloud, 
Versailles, and Sevres — The Palace of Versailles and its Art 
Galleries — A Lunch with Mr. Thomas Cook —Leaving Paris — 
The Railway Journey to Geneva. 

Of all the possessions of Paris, the Museum of the 
Louvre is the richest. The buildings are of vast 
extent, covering, with the Tuileries, with which they 
are connected, an area of twenty-four acres, and they 
are handsome architecturally. The Louvre was 
formerly a royal palace, and is said to have derived 
its name from the fact that wolves formerly abounded 
in the forest that here skirted the river-bank. An 
ancient castle stood here, and the present palace dates 
back to 1541, when it was begun under the direction 
of Francis L, who removed the older chateau. It 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 239 

was completed in the reign of Henri II., and first 
occupied by Catherine de Medicis and her son, Charles 
IX. On the 19th of August, 1572, the marriage of 
the Princess Margaret of Yalois with the King of 
Navarre, afterwards Henri IV. of France, took place 
here ; and five days later, Charles IX. gave the signal 
for the rimxinsr of the neighboring church-bell which 
was to precipitate the fearful massacre of St. Bar- 
tholomew. A window is pointed out from whence 
the king himself is said to have fired upon the doomed 
wretches in the street below. Later monarchs enlarged 
and improved the palace, and it was not until the 
reign of Napoleon III. that the immense edifice was 
completed. The old Louvre has been used as a Museum 
of the Fine Arts since the Revolution of 1789. In 
1793, the works of art dispersed among the different 
palaces and chateaux belonging to the crown, were 
collected here, and the galleries were afterwards 
greatly enriched by the spoils of the Republican and 
Imperial armies. Valuable additions to the vast col- 
lection have been made in recent years. The new 
Louvre is chiefly occupied by government offices ; but 
a part of the south wing belongs to the Museum. 
Both the south and north wings suffered during the 
brief reign of the Commune, and in the latter, the 
library of the Louvre, consisting of ninety thousand 
volumes, and many rare and interesting manuscripts, 
was destroyed. 



240 A SUMMER JAUNT 

The Museum is, in fact, a consolidation of fifteen 
different collections. There are miles of galleries 
lined with sculptures and paintings, many of them by 
the greatest artists the world has ever known, and 
months and years might here be spent in profitable 
study. The ground floor contains sculpture, from 
the days of the Egyptians and Assyrians down to 
modern times, and engravings. The first floor is 
devoted to pictures, antiquities, the Musee Campana, 
the Musee de la Eenaissance, drawings, and antique 
bronzes. Upon the second floor are the Musee de 
Marine, the Musee Ethnographique, and three rooms 
supplementary to the picture galleries containing 
Flemish and Dutch pictures. In the Salle de Venus, 
is seen the famous statue of the Venus of Milo, one 
of the chief gems of this marvellous collection. This 
celebrated work of art was dug up on the island of 
Milo, or Melos, in 1820. There are numerous other 
masterpieces of sculpture. The galleries of paintings 
are of great extent, and a mere cursory examination 
of the chief pictures in the collection would occupy a 
long time. The Salon Carre contains some of the 
finest works, such as Murillo's "Assumption" (pur- 
chased from Marshal Soult's collection for the enor- 
mous sum of $133,000; ; Paolo Veronese's "Marriage 
Supper at Cana " ; Eaphael's " Holy Family " ; Titian's 
"Entombment of Christ" ; Correggio's " St. Catherine " ; 
and Vandyke's "Charles I. of England." In the 



lljiiilll 



■•Mil 




r 



1,1 'i ! if! 

|f 
KM 



111! 



■illll 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 241 

Grand Gallery, which is nearly a quarter of a mile 
in length, there some fine specimens of the Italian, 
Spanish, German, and Dutch schools, a series of large 
pictures painted by Rubens for Marie de Medicis, and 
illustrating events in her own life, being included in 
the latter. The Modern French Gallery contains 
some noteworthy works by David, Guerin, Gerard, 
Robert, and other artists. In the Gallerie des Sept 
Metres, are Raphael's " Johanna of Arragon," and his 
portrait of himself; Titian's "Francis I."; and Leon- 
ardo da Vinci's "Virgin in the Sepulchre." The 
present volume might be filled with an account of the 
Louvre ; but there are many objects in Paris to be 
seen, and we must turn our steps towards other 
places. 

Between the Louvre and the Tuileries extends a 
vast quadrangle, formed partly by Napoleon I., and 
partly by Napoleon III. This space is divided into 
three parts; viz., the Place Napoleon, the Place du 
Carrousel, and the Cour des Tuileries. In front of 
the principal entrance to the latter stands the Arc de 
Triomphe du Carrousel, a structure much inferior to 
the Arc de l'Etoile, though still handsome and impos- 
ing. It is forty-seven , feet in height, sixty-three feet 
in width, and twenty feet in depth. It is surmounted 
by a chariot and four horses, a group in bronze, de- 
signed by Bosio, to replace the celebrated horses of 
Lysippus, with which Napoleon originally adorned the 



242 A SUMMER JAUNT 

arch, but which were restored by the allies in 1814 to 
their former position over the portal of St. Mark's, in 
Venice. Within the grounds of the Tuileries, during 
our visit to Paris, M. Giffard's mammoth balloon was 
moored. It had not yet begun its public ascents, but 
several trial-trips to the height of a quarter of a mile 
or more, were made during our stay. This monster 
of the air, the largest aerostat ever constructed, held 
847,598 cubic feet of gas, and cost upwards of $100,- 
000. Even with its car resting upon the ground the 
great air-ship loomed above the Tuileries and the 
Louvre like a gigantic dome, and could be seen for 
a great distance. It was large enough to lift sixty 
persons at a time. 

The Palace and Museum of the Luxembourg is sit- 
uated on the south side of the Seine, in the Faubourg 
St. Germain. The gardens attached to the palace are 
quite extensive, and contain some fine fountains and 
statuary. The palace was commenced by Marie de 
Medicis, in 1615, and was used as a royal residence 
until 1800. It was afterwards used by the higher 
legislative bod}^, and subsequent to the destruction of 
the Hotel de Ville, a portion of the edifice has been 
occupied by the Prefect of the Seine. The picture 
galleries are filled with paintings by living French 
artists. 

The Palais Eoyal, originally built by Cardinal 
Kichelieu, and by him presented to Louis XIII., in 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 243 

1629, from which time it was a royal residence, is 
now, and for many years has been, a mass of shops 
and cafes. The original structure, which was the 
scene of the orgies of the Regent, Duke Philip of 
Orleans, was destroyed by fire after it fell into the 
possession of Philippe Egalite, who formed the plan 
of replenishing his exhausted coffers by surrounding 
the garden with houses and bazaars. A portion of the 
structure remained a palace, under various designations, 
as the fortunes of the country changed, and as late as 
1870 some of the apartments were occupied by Prince 
Napoleon, a cousin of the late emperor. In 1848, 
and again in 1871, parts of the palace were destroyed. 
The shops are built around a quadrangular garden, 
and present a very brilliant appearance, especially in 
the evening. The Theatre Frangais is situated at the 
south-west corner of the Palais Royal, and the Theatre 
du Palais Royal, one of the lighter class of playhouses, 
forms one of the attractions of the Palais Royal itself. 
The Hotel des Invalides, and the Tomb of Napo- 
leon, are among the chief sights of Paris ; and thither 
the eye of the stranger is directed early upon his 
arrival in the city, for the great gilded dome of the 
Church of the Invalides is one of the most prominent 
objects to be seen. Soldiers disabled by wounds, and 
those who have served for thirty years, are entitled to 
a home in the Hotel des Invalides, and there are ac- 
commodations for five thousand inmates. The whole 



244 A SUMMER JAUNT 

establishment, which is completely isolated from other 
buildings, occupies an area of nearly thirty acres, in- 
cluding the magnificent esplanade along the Seine. 
This admirable institution was founded in 1670 by 
Louis XIV. A Musee d'Artillerie, which embraces 
a very large collection of arms and armor, is one of 
the features of the hotel. Military mass is celebrated 
every Sunday at twelve o'clock in the old Church of 
the Invalides, or the Church of St. Louis, as it is 
called. The Church of the Dome is upon the other 
side of a screen, and can be entered only from the 
other side. The dome lifts its summit 330 feet above 
the pavement, and directly beneath it is the tomb of 
Napoleon Bonaparte. This is an open circular crypt, 
twenty feet in depth and thirty-six feet in diameter, 
the walls of which are adorned with reliefs in marble, 
by Simart. There are also twelve colossal figures, 
by Pradier, emblematic of the victories gained by the 
emperor. From the centre of the mosaic pavement, 
which represents a wreath of laurels, rises the sarcoph- 
agus, six and a half feet wide, and fourteen and a half 
feet high, consisting of a single block of reddish, pol- 
ished granite, weighing sixty tons, brought from Lake 
Ladoga, in Finland, at a cost of 140,000 francs. Two 
winding granite staircases lead down into the vault, 
and on either 'side is a sepulchral urn, one being that 
of Marshal Bertrand, and the other Marshal Duroc's. 
Over the entrance to the vault are inscribed the fol- 




DOME OF THE HOTEL DES IXVALIDES. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 245 

lowing words from the Emperor's will : " Je desire 
que mes cendres reposent sur les bords de la Seine, au 
milieu de cepeuple Frangais que fai tant aime" The 
monuments of Vauban and Turenne, with their recum- 
bent figures, occupy lofty chapels on each side of 
Napoleon's tomb, and in other chapels are the tombs 
of Jerome and Joseph Bonaparte. 

The handsome Ecole Militaire, which covers a large 
area, and is surmounted by a conspicuous dome, is 
situated near the Champs de Mars, not far from the 
Hotel des Invalides. 

On the same side of the river, too, are the Jardin 
des Plantes, or Museum d'Histoire Naturelle ; the 
Gobelins manufactory (partly destroyed, with many of 
its rich treasures of tapestry, in 1871) ; the Palais du 
Corps Legislatif ; the Palais des Beaux Arts ; the 
Hotel des Monnaies (or mint) ; the Institut de Prance, 
and other institutions which demand the attention of 
the visitor to a greater or lesser extent, but which I 
will not attempt to describe. / 

Two of the most noteworthy monuments in Paris 
are the Colonne Vendome, in the Place of the same 
name, and the Colonne de Juillet, which stands in the 
Place de la Bastille. The former is in imitation of 
Trajan's Column at Pome, and is one hundred and 
forty-four feet in height. It was erected by Napoleon 
I. , to commemorate his victories over the Kussians and 
Austrians in 1805, and is constructed of masonry, en- 



246 A SUMMER JAUNT 

crusted with plates of bronze, forming a spiral scroll 
nearly three hundred yards in length, on which are 
represented the most memorable scenes of the cam- 
paign of that year. The metal of twelve hundred 
Austrian and Russian cannons was used in the con- 
struction of these plates. A statue of Napoleon, 
which occupied the summit of the column, was taken 
down by the Royalists in 1814, and the metal was used 
in casting the equestrian statue of Henri IV., which 
now stands on the Pont Neuf. In 1831, Louis Philippe 
caused a new statue of Napoleon to be erected, and in 
1863 this was replaced by another. The column was 
pulled down by the destructive Communists in 1871, 
but has since been re-erected. The column of July is 
a bronze monument, of the Corinthian order, rising on 
a high pedestal, and surmounted by a figure emblemati- 
cal of Liberty. Six hundred and fifteen citizens, who 
fell in the Revolution of July, 1830, were placed in a 
vault beneath this monument, and others who fell in 
the outbreak of February, 1848, and in the Commu- 
nist troubles of 1871, have been added to the list. 
The column itself is seventy-five feet high, and the 
whole structure has a height of one hundred and sixty- 
four feet. The Communists tried to destroy this shaft 
as well as the Vendome Column, but were happily un- 
successful. The ancient Bastille, which stood here, 
was destroyed by the insurgents in 1789, and the 
stones were used to construct the Pont de la Concorde. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 247 

The Canal St. Martin, which is navigable for barges 
and small steamers, passes under the Place de la Bas- 
tille, and also under the Boulevard Eichard Lenoir, for 
nearly its entire length. It communicates with the 
Canal de l'Ourcq, which connects the river Marne 
with the north section of the city, where the abattoirs, 
or slaughter-houses are situated. 

The Place des Victoires contains an equestrian statue 
of Louis XIV., and in the Place des Vosges, formerly 
the Place Roy ale, is an equestrian statue of Louis 
XIII. Both these effigies have suffered from the 
ravages of war and riot, and have been at least once 
renewed. In the Place de l'Hotel de Ville, formerly 
the Place cle Greve, the stake and the scaffold for 
centuries held sway, and there that terrible instrument, 
the guillotine, began its deadly work. Many of the 
public squares of the city are ornamented with hand- 
some fountains, some of them being very elaborate 
structures. About midway between the Place des 
Victoires and the Boulevard Montmartre, is the hand- 
some temple of the money-changers, the Bourse, and 
in the same neighborhood is the Bibliotheque Nation- 
ale, the largest library in the world. This enormous 
collection contains over three million books, and more 
than one hundred and fifty thousand manuscripts. 
There is also in connection with the library a large 
collection of coins and antiquities. 

The Place du Trone, at the eastern extremity of 



248 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Paris, five miles from the Arc de l'Etoile, is like that 
famous point an important centre in the street system 
of the city. Twelve different streets radiate therefrom. 
The square obtained its name from the circumstance 
that in 1660, after the conclusion of the Peace of the 
Pyrenees, Louis XIV. received the homage of the cit- 
izens of Paris on a throne erected here. Two Doric 
columns, supporting statues of St. Louis and Philippe 
le Bel, ornament the place. 

There were many opportunities to hear concerts and 
operas during our visit, for entertainments of all kinds 
were more numerous during the Exhibition season than 
ever before. We were a few days late for the Grandes 
Fetes Musicales of the Orpheonistes, when twenty-two 
thousand musicians made Paris resound from one 
extremity to the other with band music ; but we were 
in time to hear some of the great concerts at the 
Exhibition by the French singing societies, and also 
the English concerts by Mr. Henry Leslie's chorus. 
The chief opera houses, that is, all that remain of 
them, the Grand Opera and the Opera Comique, were 
open regularly for the representation of past successes. 
No manager would take the trouble of producing new 
works when the town was filled with strangers, and 
old pieces would serve as well as fresh ones to draw a 
crowd. The Cafes C/iantants, too, were in full blast, 
and concerts of a little better grade could be heard at 
the garden in rear of the Palais de l'lndustrie, formerly 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 249 

known as the Concert Musard. The new Opera House 
is one of the most magnificent structures of its kind in 
the world. The new Imperial Opera House at Vienna 
is said to be the only building that can be compared 
with it in elegance and richness of appointments. It 
occupies the centre of an open space, and a straight, 
broad avenue has lately been opened, leading from the 
front down towards the Palais Royal and the Louvre. 
The building is rich in adornments both within and 
without, and the grand stairway and the grand foyer 
are both lofty and gorgeous. The building was 
designed by M. Gamier, and the most famous sculp- 
tors and painters were employed in its embellishment. 
Its cost was over seven millions of dollars. In the 
grand foyer are twenty golden statues personifying the 
qualities artists should possess, and the ceiling is 
enriched by the magnificent frescoes of M. Paul 
Baudry illustrative of the arts and their progress. 
The auditorium seats about three thousand persons, 
but fails to carry out the ideas of spaciousness, ele- 
gance and comfort suggested by the foyers and the 
great stairway. The stage is the largest in any theatre 
in the world, and some idea of the grandeur of the 
performances may be gained, when it is known that 
dressing-room accommodations are provided for no 
less than five hundred and thirty-eight persons. The 
chorus numbers about one hundred, and the orchestra 
eighty. This is a national opera house and the per- 



250 A SUMMER JAUNT 

formances are therefore in French. The exterior of 
the building is adorned with groups of statuary, single 
figures and busts, and the great composers of other 
countries, as well as those belonging to France, find a 
place. 

The Opera Comique is situated but a short distance 
from the Grand Opera, in a building long occupied for 
the purpose. The Grand Opera receives a govern- 
ment subsidy of eight hundred and forty thousand 
francs a year, and the Opera Comique three hundred 
and sixty thousand francs. Immense sums of money 
are expended in the mounting of operas, especially at 
the former house, where, in one case at least, the 
mise-en-scene of a single opera, "L'Africaine," by 
Meyerbeer, cost within a fraction of three hundred 
thousand francs. The preparation of "La Keine de 
Chypre," an opera by Halevy, a good representation of 
which I chanced to see, although the leading parts 
were by no means extraordinarily well sung, cost two 
hundred and seventy-seven thousand one hundred and 
seventy-six francs. The government expends large 
sums of money upon the national dramatic temples, at 
the head of which stands the Theatre Frangais, as well 
as upon the lyric houses. There are numerous small 
theatres not under government patronage, several of 
which are devoted to light opera or opera bouffe. 

Through the kindness of M. Ambroise Thomas, the 
director of the Paris Conservatoire de Musique, that 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 251 

interesting institution was thrown open to the inspec- 
tion of Dr. Tourjee and his companions. This is one 
of the oldest, as well as one of the largest, of the 
European schools of music, and likewise one of the 
best. The Ecole Royale de Chant, upon which the 
present school had its foundation, was established in 
1784. There are accommodations for about six hun- 
dred pupils and auditeurs. The buildings cover a con- 
siderable portion of the square bounded by the Rue de 
Faubourg Foissoniere, the Rue Bergere, the Rue de 
Conservatoire, and the Rue Ste. Cecile. The chief 
entrance is at No 15, in the Rue de Faubourg Pois- 
soniere. It is here the principal offices of the school 
are situated, and it is also the entrance to the small 
theatre, where the examinations are held and where 
many of the general lectures and lessons are given. 
Declamation, as well as music, is taught in the Conser- 
vatoire. The term of study lasts from the first Mon- 
day in October until the end of July. The classes are 
generally larger than in the American music schools, 
since they sometimes number as many as twelve pupils, 
and, in addition, candidates are occasionally admitted 
as auditeurs. Lessons are given three times a week 
and continue two hours. The celebrated Conservatoire 
concerts, at which none but the best musicians assist, 
take place fortnightly from the second Sunday in Jan- 
uary until into April. The library occupies a large 
space, and is an important feature. It contains at the 



252 A SUMMER JAUNT 

present time over thirty thousand works, and large 
additions are made every year. The museum contains 
many rare instruments, both European and foreign, 
the collection being much the largest of its'kind in the 
world. A very interesting catalogue, descriptive of 
each instrument, was prepared in 1875 by M. Gustave 
Chouquet, the conservateur. The need of more space 
for the class-rooms, as well as for the library and 
museum, has been felt for several years, and new 
buildings are soon to be erected in accordance with the 
plans of M. Charles Gamier, the architect of the 
Grand Opera. Eight millions of francs are to be 
expended in this work. 

The cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise occupies upwards of 
two hundred acres, and is crowded with over twenty 
thousand tombs. Some parts of the enclosure present 
a neglected appearance, but, in other cases, much 
taste has been shown in beautifying the grounds and 
the monuments. Most of the offerings of affection 
placed upon the graves are tawdry, although some are 
beautifully wrought of immortelles. At the time of 
our visit, the tomb of Thiers was literally covered with 
wreaths and other devices. At the entrance a book is 
kept, in which the admirers of the departed may sub- 
scribe their names. The tomb of Easpail was also 
almost buried beneath wreaths and other memorial de- 
vices. Here, too, are found the last resting-places of 
Marshal Ney, Marshal Macdonald, General Foy, and 






THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 253 

General Gobert; Arago, Gay-Lussac, and Laplace; 
Moliere, Racine, Scribe, Beaumarchais, Lafontaine, 
Laharpe, Beranger, Delavigne, Delille, and Mine, de 
Genlis; Cherubini, Chopin, Boieldieu, Herolcl, Mehul, 
and Pleyel ; Delacroix, Louis David, and Pradier; 
Talma, Bachel, and Duchesnois ; and many other emi- 
nent representatives of war, science, literature, music, 
art, and the stage. In accordance with the last wishes 
of Chopin, the composer, his heart has been taken to 
Warsaw (this was but recently done), but his body is 
interred here. One of the most interesting monu- 
ments in the cemetery is that of Abelard and Heloise. 
It consists of a Gothic canopy, formed out of the ruins 
of the abbey of Paraclete, near Nogent-sur-Saone, of 
which Abelard was the founder. Beneath the canopy 
is the sarcophagus, with the figures of the ill-fated 
pair, which Abelard himself caused to be constructed 
before his death. The tomb is often decorated with 
fresh flowers, the offerings of those who regard it* as 
the shrine of disappointed love. The grave of d'An- 
toine Augustin Parmentier, the chemist (died 1813), 
who introduced potato-culture into France, has pota- 
toes planted upon it in grateful remembrance of his 
services. The top of the monument erected over the 
grave of Mme. Blanchard, the aeronaut, who lost her 
life while discharging fireworks from a balloon in 1819, 
is made to resemble the top of a balloon. The most 



254 A SUMMER JAUNT 

imposing monument is that to the memory of the 
Countess Demidoff, who died in 1818. 

There are other large cemeteries at Montmartre and 
Montparnasse, but they are less interesting than Pere- 
la-Chaise. The latter cemetery derived its name from 
la Chaise, the Jesuit confessor of Louis XIV., who had 
a country residence, called Mont Louis, on the site of 
the present chapel. Lafayette is buried in a private 
cemetery in the Eue de'Picpus, Faubourg St. Antoine. 

Not fir from Pere-la-Chaise is the new park of the 
Buttes Chaumont, the last great work of M. Hauss- 
mann, to whose enterprise and good taste Paris owes 
many of its modern improvements and adornments. The 
gibbet of Montfaucon once stood here, and the place was 
long a haunt of criminals, who found refuge in the old 
quarries. The Communists of 1871 made their last 
stand here, and in the cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise, and 
many of them were shot near the rear wall. The 
grounds have been laid out in a very picturesque man- 
ner, and the former unsightly masses of rock have 
been converted into objects of beauty. From the 
summit of the hill a fine view of Paris is to be had. 

The Halles Centrales, the chief market-houses- of 
Paris, situated on the Place des Innocents, between 
the Place St. Eustache and the Kue de Rivoli, are 
well worth a visit, especially in the early morning. 
The Halle aux Vins, or wine depot, is on the south 
side of the river, near the Jardin des Plantes. It is 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 255 

very extensive, and fronts upon the Seine for nearly 
half a mile. There are numerous markets of various 
kinds in different parts of the city. On certain days 
of the week, flower markets are held, the chief of 
these being on Tuesdays and Fridays, near the Church 
of the Madeleine. 

The International Exposition early claimed our 
attention ; but. I have purposely deferred mentioning 
it until the last, for the reason that Paris itself was 
of chief importance. The Champ de Mars, and the 
neighboring hill of the Trocadero, were utilized for 
the exhibition, the main pavilion occupying the greater 
part of the former, while the heights on the opposite 
bank of the Seine, were crowned by a large crescent- 
shaped edifice, which, with its beautiful surroundings, 
or rather the adornments of the hillside, formed the 
grandest general feature of the whole. In the centre 
of the Palace of the Trocadero, as this edifice was 
denominated, the great concert hall was situated, a 
noble apartment, similar in shape to the Eoyal Albert 
Hall in London, and nearly as large. Upon the slope, 
in front of the hall, were gigantic cascades and foun- 
tains, and in commanding positions were several colos- 
sal groups of statuary. The Palace of the Trocadero, 
was built of stone, being intended for a permanent 
structure ; but the main building over on the Champ 
de Mars, like most of its predecessors in all countries 
since 1851, was an ephemeral creation of iron and 



256 A SUMMER JAUNT 

glass. The shape of this main structure was a paral- 
lelogram, covering more than half the whole space of 
the Champ de Mars, with its annexes running out to 
its boundaries at the Avenues Suflren and de la Bour- 
donnaye. Other buildings lined the Seine on both 
sides, and the grounds not thus occupied were con- 
verted into gardens. Raised towers and domes, also 
of glass and iron, formed the four corners of the main 
building, and another occupied the centre upon the 
side fronting upon the Seine. This formed the main 
entrance, and stood directly opposite the Palace of 
Trocadero, and the Bridge of Jena. Upon this west- 
ern facade were twenty statues, representing different 
countries, our own nation being symbolized by a 
colossal figure of Liberty, crowned with a wreath and 
star, and holding a flag and Roman fasces, with a 
scroll bearing the word " Constitution." An eagle 
rested at her feet. Above these statues floated the 
flags of the countries they represented, and numerous 
other flags decorated the other sides of the immense 
structure. The length of this building was twenty- 
one hundred feet, and its width eleven hundred and 
forty feet. The fine arts occupied the central portion 
for the entire length, with the exception of the central 
place, which was occupied by the pavilion of the city 
of Paris. A series of spacious and well-lighted 
apartments were devoted to the different nations, 
France, of course, claiming the largest space. The 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 257 

general exhibit of France, indeed, occupied one-half 
the entire pavilion. On one side of the art depart- 
ment extended the Street of the Nations, bordered 
on one side by structures supposed to represent the 
distinctive architecture of the various countries. The 
area covered by the exhibition buildings aggregated 
something over forty-two acres, six or seven acres 
less than were occupied by the buildings at the Phil- 
adelphia Exposition. The grounds, or general en- 
closure, were of much less extent than those occupied 
at Fairmount Park. 

It will be useless to attempt a description of the 
exhibition itself. The subject is too vast to discuss, 
except in a general way. The general impression 
created was that, while in certain departments the 
Paris Exposition might excel, the aggregate formed 
no grander display than the exhibition of 1876. 
There seemed to be a deficiency in some of the qual- 
ities which gave the Philadelphia display its great 
excellence. There was not such a general and com- 
plete showing of the industries of the nations. This 
remark, however, does not hold good in regard to 
France, for its display was not only very extensive, 
but complete in every department, and illustrative, in 
a marvellous way, of the recuperative powers of the 
nation. As a whole, its exhibit is said to have been 
far in advance of its display in 1867, when an inter- 
national exhibition was held upon the same grounds. 



258 A SUMMER JAUNT 

A bewildering wealth of pictures, statuary, jewelry, 
silks, velvets, tapestries, furniture, porcelain, and 
other objects of luxury or utility, filled one-half the 
great exhibition palace. As the visitor entered the 
building at the end nearest the Seine, the great mass 
of state jewels flashed upon him from a small pavilion 
which was constantly guarded by gens (Tarmes. 
These jewels are worth nearly thirty million francs, 
and formerly belonged to the regal crown. In 1792, 
the Constituent Assembly ordered an inventory to be 
made of them, and that task had hardly been com- 
pleted, when forty thieves entered the house and 
carried them off. Although some of the rogues were 
captured, the jewels were not recovered until their 
hiding-place was divulged by a hair-dresser, who, 
while in prison under sentence of death for counter- 
feiting, overheard some other prisoners talking about 
the affair. The French jewelry department also 
contained vast stores of precious stones of all kinds. 
Count Braninsk's famous sapphire, valued at two mil- 
lion five hundred thousand francs, was in the collec- 
tion ; and so was a full set of sapphires and diamonds, 
which an American lady had just purchased for eight 
hundred and fifty thousand francs. Diamond lace, 
worth eighteen thousand francs a yard, was shown, 
together with gems of every kind. 

Next in extent to the French section was the Brit- 
ish, and its most prominent feature was formed by the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 259 

immense collection of costly gifts received by the 
Prince of Wales during his visit to India. Among 
these objects could be seen a camel's-hair shawl valued 
at six thousand pounds, and a sabre, the hilt of which 
contained diamonds valued at twenty thousand pounds. 
In all the departments of art and manufactures Eng- 
land made an extensive display. Italy was seen most 
favorably in her objects of art. Austria made a good 
display, though a less important one than in previous 
exhibitions. Germany was conspicuous by its ab- 
sence. The United States section was small, but 
it contained some of the greatest wonders of the fair, 
especially in the machinery department, and in the 
end carried off many of the chief prizes. Eussia, 
Sweden, Norway, and Denmark made noble exhibits ; 
and so did Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, Spain, 
Portugal, and other nations. China and Japan were 
also handsomely represented, but Turkey and Egypt 
were absent. The British Colonies made no such 
grand display as was seen in their departments at 
Philadelphia. 

The fine arts collection was doubtless better, as a 
whole, than the one embraced in the American Exhi- 
bition, but it is said to have fallen below that of 1867. 
There were many fine paintings, and some noble 
specimens of the sculptor's art ; and it is very grati- 
fying to national pride to record that American paint- 
ers sustained themselves and the honor of their coun- 



260 A SUMMER JAUNT 

try with conspicuous credit. In certain departments 
of antique art there was a wondrous display in the 
Troeadero Palace. The collection of Gobelin and 
other tapestries was never surpassed. 

On the first day of our visit to the Exposition there 
chanced to be ail English concert in the great hall of 
the Trocadero Palace. It was given by Mr. Henry 
Leslie's choir, with Mrs. Mudie Bolingbroke, Miss De 
Fonblanque, the two Misses Robertson, and Messrs. 
Joseph Maas, Barton McGuckin, and Wadmore as solo 
singers. Mr. John C. Ward was the organist, Mr. J. 
G. Callcott the pianist, and Mr. Leslie conducted the 
choral pieces, which were fifteen in number. The 
singing was very creditable, though in no instance 
was it so in any extraordinary degree. The selections 
were chiefly old glees and modern part-songs, with 
one or two solos from oratorios, one of which, "Haste, 
Israel, haste," from Handel's "Joshua," was finely 
sung by Mr. Maas, the tenor, who is well known in 
America. A trio by Jvandcgger was accompanied by 
the composer upon the pianoforte. The organ had but 
recently been opened and did not seem to be in the 
best condition. On another occasion it was heard to . 
much better advantage. The instrument was built 
expressly for the Exposition by M. Cavaille-Coll, and 
contains four thousand and eighty pipes and seventy- 
two stops. The attendance at this concert was com- 
paratively small ; and no wonder. The admission fee 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 261 

was from two to five times as much as to the entire 
exhibition outside the concert. 

Three days later, Sunday, July 21, I attended the 
first grand concours of the French singing societies. 
The admission was only one franc, and the great 
hall was crowded. There was a male chorus of two 
thousand voices, under the direction 6f M. Edouard 
Colonne, and the magnificent band of the Garde 
Republicaine, so favorably known in America, served 
as an orchestra. The chorus was quite well balanced, 
or at least the several parts were all heard to good ad- 
vantage from the upper gallery, the only place in the 
whole house where a late comer could find even stand- 
ing room, and the unity and precision were something 
remarkable. The programme was wholly national, 
the selections being Boulanger's " Lever du jour ; " 
"Nos Peres," by Bourgault-Ducoudray ; "La Saint- 
Julien," by Semet; "Les Fils d'Egypte," by Lau- 
rent de Rille ; Felicien David's " Chaut du Soir ; " 
"La Cour des Miracles," by Leo Delibes ; "Le Ty- 
rol," by Ambroise Thomas ; and Gounod's familiar 
Chceur des Soldats, from "Faust." The band played 
one or two pieces in addition. The enthusiasm of the 
audience was intense, and fully two-thirds of the 
numbers on the programme were encored, The high- 
est pitch of popular excitement was reached, however, 
when M. Gounod himself came forward to conduct his 
Soldiers' Chorus. He was greeted with cheer upon 



262 A SUMMER JAUNT 

cheer by both audience and chorus, and the enthusi- 
asm broke out afresh at the conclusion of the perform- 
ance, which was one of the most spirited given during 
the whole concert. A second rendering elicited 
nearly as much applause. 

Our party availed itself of Messrs. Cook & Son's 
"four-in-hand excursions" during several days, and 
thus visited many of the places already mentioned in 
these pages. We also passed a day in an excursion to 
St. Cloud and Versailles. We rode out through the 
Bois de Boulogne, and soon after passing the famous 
park, crossed the river Seine into the village of St. 
Cloud, obtaining, before reaching there, a fine view of 
Mont Valerien, on the summit of which one of the 
strongest and most important of the chain of forts sur- 
rounding Paris is situated. The Palace of St. Cloud 
is now a mass of ruins, having been burned in Octo- 
ber, 1870, but whether by the French artillerists sta- 
tioned on Mont Valerien, or by the Germans who 
occupied the town, is an open question. St. Cloud 
was originally the country-seat of Francis I. The 
palace was erected in 1572 by a wealthy citizen, and 
in 1658 it was rebuilt by Louis XIV., and by that 
monarch presented to his brother, the Duke of Or- 
leans. In 1782 it was purchased by Louis XVI. for 
Marie Antoinette. The Council of Five Hundred met 
here, and on the 9th of November, 1799, Bonaparte 
dispersed the assembly. On the 3d of July, 1815, the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 263 

second capitulation of Paris was signed here, Blucher 
having established his headquarters at the chateau. 
Here, too, on the 25th of July, 1830, Charles X. signed 
the famous proclamations abolishing the freedom of 
the press, dissolving the Chambers, and altering the 
law of elections, which precipitated the revolution of 
July. St. Cloud was the principal summer residence 
of Napoleon III., and in 1855 sheltered Queen Victo- 
ria on her visit to Paris. The park and gardens are 
very fine, and the former contains some grand old 
trees. The beautiful fountains were preserved in part, 
and now play on certain days for the pleasure of the 
Parisians, who visit St. Cloud in great numbers on 
such occasions. 

From St. Cloud we continued our ride through the 
forest of Ville d'Avray to Versailles. Although Ver- 
sailles is a city of over sixty thousand inhabitants, it 
contains little beyond its great palace and noble park 
to interest the stranger. We went first to the Grand 
Trianon, a villa erected by Louis XIV. for Madame 
de Maintenon. This edifice contains several richly- 
furnished apartments, one of which, the Salle de Mala- 
chite, derives its name from a magnificent malachite 
vase presented by the Emperor of Eussia to Napoleon 
I. It was in this edifice that the trial of Marshal Ba- 
zaine was held. The Petit Trianon, built by Louis 
XV. for Madame Dubarry, and once a favorite resort 
of Marie Antoinette, is situated not far distant from 



264 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the other, and between them is the Musee des Voitures, 
containing several gorgeous state carriages, including 
the bridal carriages of both Napoleon I. and Napoleon 
III., and the coronation-coach of Charles X., which is 
said to have cost a million francs. 

After lunching at a restaurant in the town, we pro- 
ceeded to the palace. The palace court contains a 
colossal equestrian statue of Louis XIV., in bronze, and 
sixteen other statues, including those of Bayard, Col- 
bert, Cardinal Richelieu, Marshal Turenne, Sully, Ad- 
miral Duquesne, and Conde. The palace was origi- 
nally a hunting-lodge of Louis XIII. It was converted 
into a magnificent royal residence by Louis XIV. in ac- 
cordance with designs by the architect, Mansard, and 
was completed in 1681. The king died here in 1750, 
and Louis XV. was born here, and died here also. 
Louis XVI. resided here until 1789, when he was re- 
moved by force to Paris. In 1795 the palace became 
a manufactory of arms. In 1815 it was pillaged by 
the Prussians. Louis XVIII., Charles X., and Louis 
Philippe occupied it, and from September, 18*70, until 
March, 1871, it was the headquarters of the Prussians, 
a large part of the edifice being converted into a hos- 
pital. At this period the pictures were covered, and 
carefully preserved from injury. On the 18th of Jan- 
uary, 1871, King William of Prussia was here crowned 
Emperor of Germany, and a few months later, whilst 
Paris was in the hands of the Commune, Versailles be- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 265 

came the seat of the new French Kepublican Govern- 
ment. A portion of the palace is still occupied by the 
Senate and Chamber of Deputies. 

The Musee Historique, which occupies an almost 
interminable suite of apartments, and is nearly as ex- 
tensive as the Louvre, was founded by Louis Philippe. 
These galleries are filled chiefly with modern pictures, 
but in furtherance of the plan to make the collection 
historical, many old paintings have been received from 
the Louvre and elsewhere. Some of the works are of 
an inferior order of merit, but others are the produc- 
tions of genius, and the collection, as a whole, is in- 
tensely interesting. There are some five miles of pic- 
tures, and to simply walk through the whole suite of 
apartments, without stopping, would occupy an hour 
and a quarter. Since the recent occupation of the 
palace for governmental purposes, many of the apart- 
ments have been closed to the public ; but enough re- 
main open to afford a good idea of the vastness of the 
collection, and of its character. In one suite of rooms 
are pictures illustrative of events during the Crusades ; 
in another a magnificent series of Algerian scenes, 
by Horace Vernet, which form some of the chief 
gems of the collection ; the -Galerie des Batailles, a 
spacious hall, in two compartments, contains some 
large pictures by Horace Vernet, Ary Scheffer, 
Couder, and others, in which battle-scenes where 
French warriors have distinguished themselves are de- 



2QQ A SUMMER JAUNT 

picted ; and there are many rooms filled with portraits. 
In a room devoted to portraits of celebrated soldiers 
who afterwards became emperors, kings, marshals, 
&c, represented according to the rank they held in 
1792, may be seen "Bonaparte, Lieutenant-Colonel;" 
"Murat, Sous-Lieutenant ;" &c. In the Galerie des 
Portraits de Personages Celebres is a collection of 
American portraits, headed by Washington. In the 
Galerie des Batailles is a picture by Couder, of the 
Siege of Yorktown, in which Rochambeau and Wash- 
ington are depicted, the former being made to appear 
the chief personage. There are many representations 
of the great Napoleon in battle-scenes and portraits, 
and in one of the halls is a fine statue, by Vela. The 
Salon des Glaces is a gorgeously decorated apartment, 
two hundred and forty feet long, thirty-five feet wide, 
and forty-five feet high, where many grand fetes have 
taken place, the last having been a state ball, given 
since the close of the Exposition, by President Mac- 
Mahon. The ceilings of this apartment are covered 
with frescoes intended to glorify Louis XIV. . Con- 
nected with this noble hall are the apartments of 
Louis XIV. , and in the south wing are the sleeping- 
room and drawing-room of Marie Antoinette. The 
magnificent gardens are situated in rear of the palace, 
and contain several ornamental sheets of water, 
together with fountains and statues. The fountains 
play on certain days during the summer, generally on 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 267 

the first Sunday of the month, and the exhibition, 
which is said to cost ten thousand francs every time it 
is repeated, attracts crowds of people. 

We returned from Versailles to Paris via Viroflay, 
Chaville, and Sevres, stopping for a brief time in the 
latter place to make a hurried inspection of the porce- 
lain manufactory. The villages on this side of Paris 
suffered greatly during the siege. Near Sevres is 
pointed out the building where Prince Bismark and M. 
Jules Favre held their interview preparatory to the 
armistice of 1871. 

On one of our rides about Paris we stopped at 
Messrs. Cook & Son's boarding-house to partake of 
lunch with Mr. Thomas Cook, the senior member of 
the firm, who made his home in Paris during the Ex- 
position season. The members of Mr. Bruce's divi- 
sion were also invited, and thus the number of Amer- 
ican visitors was made between sixty and seventy. 
We were greeted very cordially by Mr. Cook, and a 
delightful hour was passed, after the lunch, in listening 
to remarks from him and from several members of our 
own party. Divine grace was invoked by Rev. P. M. 
Macdonald, of Boston. At the conclusion of the re- 
past, Dr. Tourjee, in a few pleasant words expressive 
of the happiness felt by himself and companions, both 
in meeting Mr. Cook, and in consequence of the hand- 
some manner in which they had been entertained at 



268 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the Hotel Bedford, introduced Mr. Bruce, of the 
American party. 

Mr. Bruce expressed the thanks of the party for the 
hospitable manner in which the visitors had been 
entertained, and also for the other attentions which 
had been shown during the pleasant sojourn in Paris. 
In the provisions made for their comfort find pleasure, 
there was compensation for any previous omissions. 
While again thanking their host, he tendered the hope 
that the gentleman referred to might long remain the 
" Chief Cook." 

Mr. Cook replied in a. speech full of good feeling, 
and in the course of his remarks alluded to the growth 
of the excursion business managed by his firm, and to 
the patronage which the Americans were bestowing 
upon it in their travels through Europe. Five years 
before, a party of one hundred and forty-eight Amer- 
icans, one of whom was Mr. Bruce, had visited Europe. 
He regretted that he had been unable, in the present 
instance, to personally arrange the details of the tour, 
and to accompany the different divisions over a part of 
the route at least, as he had clone in the previous in- 
stance. Had he not been tied to Paris by other re- 
sponsibilities, he would have personally met them on 
their landing in Scotland. He complimented Dr. Tour- 
jee very warmly for having brought so large and so 
respectable a body of travellers from America, and 
expressed the hope that all might realize their fullest 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 269 

anticipations in the tour before them. Incidentally, 
Mr. Cook gave a brief sketch of the rise of the excur- 
sion business, which had been begun in 1851 by taking 
three thousand children to the London Exhibition. 
Since that time six millions of travellers had journeyed 
under the auspices of his firm. 

Mr. M. A. Eoot, of Bay City, Mich. , spoke of the 
broadening influences of foreign travel, and of the 
many good results which were sure to follow a more 
general intermingling of the nations of the earth. 
Many prejudices were swept away by travel, and this 
better understanding of each other would assist the 
nations in bringing about a common fellowship, when 
war and strife shall be no more, and when all shall be 
united as one people, and, perhaps, by the bonds of a 
common language. 

Mr. E. Eeignard, proprietor of the excellent Hotel 
Bedford, which we made our home while in Paris, was 
also called upon for a speech, and took occasion to 
compliment his American guests. 

In conclusion, the party united in singing "Old 
Hundred," and we then continued our ride homeward, 
visiting, on the way, the celebrated Panorama, on the 
Champs Ely sees, of which the " Siege of Paris," ex- 
hibited in Philadelphia during the Exhibition of 1876, 
and latterly in Boston, is a copy. 

Tuesday evening, July 23, was the time fixed upon 
for our departure for Geneva. Mr. Brace's division 



270 A SUMMER JAUNT 

had preceded us Monday evening. At the appointed 
hour we reluctantly turned our backs upon the beauti- 
ful city of Paris — that is, those of us who were not 
compelled to take our places in the train the other way, 
— and sped onward towards Switzerland. Our route 
was over the Lyons Eailway, but the greater part of 
our journey was performed in the night, and conse- 
quently we saw but little of Fontainebleau, a place so 
intimately associated with the careers of some of the 
greatest monarchs of France, and also with some of its 
darkest pages of history; of the old town of Sens, 
where Abelard was condemned in 1140 ; of Dijon, the 
capital of ancient Burgundy, and the former seat of 
the powerful princes of Concle ; of Beaune ; of the 
quaint little towns in the Burgundian wine districts ; 
of Chalons-sur-Saone, where Abelard died in 1142; 
nor yet of Macon, where we found ourselves fatigued, 
and still sleepy, at an early hour in the morning. The 
remainder of our journey — some four or five hours — 
was more interesting, or, at least, we had better oppor- 
tunities to see what there was to see. We were ap- 
proaching the Jura Mountains, the outlying range 
which ushers the traveller into the presence of the 
nobler Alps, and as the train made its way over its 
more tortuous line among these lesser hills, there were 
many beautiful bits of scenery opened to view. We 
passed through Bourg, Amberieux, and Culoz, the 
latter being the point of divergence for the Italian line 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 271 

which runs through the Mont Cenis Tunnel, and also 
for a line to Chambery and Aix-les-Bains, and near 
the frontier town of Bellegarde, passed out of French 
territory into Switzerland. Near Bellegarde is the 
Perte de Rhone, a rocky chasm in which the river 
Rhone is lost. The railway-route through the Jura 
Mountains was constructed at great expense. There 
is a costly viaduct near Bellegarde, and near it is the 
Credo Tunnel, which is two and a half miles in length. 



272 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER VH. 

SWITZERLAND. 

Entering the Country of Lakes and. Mountains — Geneva and its 
Charming Situation — Its Interesting Features — An Organ 
Concert at the Cathedral — Lake Leman — Lausanne — The 
Castle of Chillon — Fribourg — Its Famous Organ and a Con- 
cert thereon — Bern — Another Organ Concert — Market Day 
and the Peasantry — Thun and its Beautiful Lake — The Bodeli 
Railway — Interlaken — The Jungfrau — Lauterbrunnen and 
the Fall of the Staubbach — Grindenwald and its Glaciers— A 
New Way to Repulse Clamorous Guides— An Effectual Dis- 
charge of "Greek Fire" — The Alpine Horn — The Lake of 
Brienz and the Falls of the Geissbach — Swiss Music — The 
Brunig Pass — An Ascent of the Rigi — Suuset and Sunrise as 
seen from the Summit — Excursion on the Lake of the Four 
Cantons — William Tell — Lucerne and its Quaint Bridges — 
More Organ Music — The Inevitable " Storm-piece" — Zurich — 
Schaffhausen and the Falls of the Rhine. 

Geneva is one of the three principal points at which 
most American and English tourists enter Switzerland, 
Basle and Lindau being the others. To enter this 
beautiful country from the north, and then approach 
the lofty peaks of the Oberland and the Savoy Alps 
gradually, gaining thus inspiration and enjoyment from 
contemplating the less rugged forms of nature before 
the eye has feasted and become satiated with the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 273 

grander features of scenery, is the preferable course ; 
although at Geneva the traveller finds himself charmed 
beyond measure, not only by the prospect of towering 
mountains, with the proud, white brow of Mont Blanc 
lifted above them all, but by the rare scenes of simpler 
beauty lying all around. Edward King, in one of his 
graphic letters to "The Boston Journal," has said : — 

"Geneva, after Paris, is like sleep after a battle. Here 
are no rushes of unsympathetic and brawling crowds ; no 
acres of pictures and curiosities to see ; no constant search 
after a happiness which forever flies before one. Among 
these immemorial mountains one finds profoundest peace. 
Now and then Mont Blanc is seen for an instant when the 
clouds move away, and the mighty monarch seems to say to 
all, Repose. The coot breezes, the ripple of the lake, and 
the murmurs of the Rhone are full of perfume and music 
for him who has fled the streets of a great capital." 

Lying at one extremity of Lake Leman, the largest 
body of water in this country of lakes and mountains, 
surrounded on all sides by scenes of surpassing loveli- 
ness, and watched over from afar by the loftiest Alpine 
peak, Geneva has one of the most beautiful situations 
of any city in the world. Alexandre Dumas describes 
Geneva in glowing words. "It is," says he, "after 
Naples, one of the most charming cities of all the 
world. Idly lying as she does, supporting her head 
on the base of Mount Saleve, extending to the lake 



274 A SUMMER JAUNT 

her feet that each wave comes to kiss, she seems to 
have nothing to do but to lovingly regard her thousand 
villas, spread upon the sides of the snowy mountains 
which extend to her right, or crowning the verdant 
hills which stretch to her left. At a sign from her 
hand she beholds running on the vaporous level of the 
lake, her light barks with triangular sails that glisten 
on the surface of the water, white and swift like goe- 
lands, and her heavy steamboats, which chase the 
foam with throbbing breasts. Under a beautiful 
heaven, in the presence of such fine waters, it would 
seem that her arms are useless to her, and that she 
needs but breathe to live. And yet this nonchalant 
odalisque, this apparently idle sultana, is the commer- 
cial Geneva, who counts two hundred millionaires 
among her fifty thousand inhabitants." 

Although Geneva emancipated herself politically 
from France in 1814, she is almost wholly environed 
by its territory ; whilst her language, customs and 
every aspect are thoroughly French. Her architecture 
has nothing distinctively Swiss about it, and her 
workmen wear blue blouses. French cafes and shops 
are upon the chief thoroughfares, or upon the quays, 
which, with the charming gardens by the lakeside, and 
the handsome bridges thrown across the "arrowy 
Rhone," form the principal promenades at evening; 
and down by the river are the lavoirs of the washer- 
women, just as we find them along the Seine in Paris. 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 275 

Mediaeval Geneva is chiefly upon the hill, and is made 
up of quaint old houses and narrow winding streets ; 
the modern city is mostly upon the borders of the 
lake. The home of the tourist is at some one of the 
numerous large hotels which line the quays or • front 
upon the Jardin du Lac, or the English Garden, as it 
is also called. Geneva is always full of English and 
American tourists, and an English newspaper (edited 
by a Bostonian) is published here. 

Our division was quartered at the Hotel du Lac, and 
Mr. Bruce's party was at the Grand Hotel de Kussie 
upon the other side of the river. Some of the later 
visitors were sent to the Grand Hotel de la Metropole. 
All these hotels seem to have given full satisfaction to 
their guests ; and here, let me remark, the Swiss 
hotels, both large and small, have about them, gener- 
ally speaking, an air of cleanliness, comfort and quiet, 
greatly conducive to the enjoyment of travelling. 

Geneva is a Protestant city, and long has been so ; 
here John Calvin found a refuge when he fled from 
France, and here he developed his greatest power. 
Once this "Babel of Calvinism," this "nursing mother 
of heretical plots," as St. Francis de Sales was pleased 
to term it, narrowly escaped being delivered back to 
Catholic domination. On the night of December 11th, 
1602, a detachment from the army of Charles Emman- 
uel, Duke of Savoy, attempted to gain possession of 
Geneva, and would have scaled the wall of the Corra- 



276 A SUMMER JAUNT 

terie, but for the bravery of some of the citizens. 
The invaders were carrying all before them, when Jean 
Mercier, one of the guards of the Porte Neuve, cut 
the cord of the portcullis at the very moment a Savoy- 
ard engineer was applying the petard to the gate. A 
lucky cannon-shot swept away the scaling-ladders 
placed against the walls, and the Savoyard party be- 
came demoralized. Their leader, Brunalien, was 
slain, and seventeen of his men were taken prisoners. 
Meanwhile the main army, under D'Albigny, mistak- 
ing the discharge of the cannon for the explosion of 
the petard, the preconcerted signal for the attack, 
marched up to the Porte Neuve to find the gate closed 
and to receive a shower of shot which threw the 
Savoyard ranks into utter confusion and retreat. A 
fountain commemorates this event, and there is annu- 
ally a fete of the Escalade, which is an extravagant 
sort of merry-making in the nature of a carnival. 

Jean Jacques Rousseau was born here, and his statue 
ornaments a little island in the river. Necker, the 
minister of Louis XVI. , and his daughter, Madame de 
Stael, were also born in Geneva; and so were De 
Saussure, Charles Bonnet, De Candolle, and other cele- 
brated savants. Voltaire founded the little town of 
Fernex, near Geneva, and Byron for a time lived 
on the opposite bank of the lake, in a suburb of 
Geneva. Calvin lived in Geneva from 1536 until his 
death in 1564, and the house he occupied was in the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 277 

Rue des Chanoines. He was buried in the cemetery 
of Plainpalais, but precisely where his body now rests 
is not known, as he expressly forbade that any monu- 
ment should be erected to him. A chair which 
belonged to the great reformer is preserved in the 
cathedral. 

The Cathedral of St. Pierre was completed in 1024 
by the Emperor Conrad II., but has been greatly 
changed in appearance since that time. It contains 
some interesting monuments, some handsome stained- 
glass windows, and a fine organ. Near at hand is the 
Hotel de Ville, an ancient edifice in the Florentine 
style, chiefly remarkable for an inclined paved way 
leading to the upper stories, and up which the coun- 
cillors in ancient times were conveyed on horseback 
or in chairs. The building contains the cantonal and 
municipal offices, and in one of its rooms the Alabama 
Claims Commission held its deliberations. This fact 
is duly set forth upon a wall-tablet. 

The University Building is a handsome edifice near 
the Botanic Garden. It was erected some ten years 
since by the city and canton, and contains a fine 
library and a valuable museum of natural history. The 
library was founded by Bonivard, the famed prisoner of 
Chillon. Near the University arc two art museums, 
the Musee Eath and the Athenee, both of which were 
presented by women. The former was founded by the 
Russian general Rath, a native of Geneva, and given 



278 A SUMMEK JAUNT 

to the city by bis sisters ; and the Athenee was pre- 
sented to the Societe des Beaux Arts. The Musee Fol 
is a collection of Greek and Etruscan antiquities. 

Upon one side of the Place Neuve, upon which the 
Musee Rath, and both the old and new theatres are 
situated, and near which are also the University and 
the new Palais Electoral, stands the Conservatoire de 
Musique, a comparatively small, but substantial and 
conveniently arranged building. The Conservatoire 
was founded in 1852 through the munificence of a 
liberal-spirited citizen, M. Francois Bartholony, and 
the present edifice was erected in 1858. 

The old theatre (erected in 1782, after the Calvin- 
istic opposition to dramatic performances had ceased 
in a great degree) is soon to be superseded by an 
elegant new play-house, which is being erected with 
some of the money left to the city by the late Duke of 
Brunswick. A costly monument to the Duke is also 
being erected on the Place des Alpes. 

On the south bank of the Rhone, and near the lake, 
is a handsome monument commemorating the union of 
Geneva with the Swiss Confederation, which occurred 
in 1814. It is in the form of a bronze group, by 
Dorer, rep resenting two female figures, Geneva and 
Helvetia. Within the Jardin Anglais is a kiosque 
containing an interesting representation in relief of 
Mont Blanc and the surrounding region. 

Geneva contains a Russian church, as well as an 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 279 

English place of worship. The interior of the former 
is elegantly finished in marble. 

The manufacture of watches and music-boxes con- 
stitutes the chief industry of Geneva, and the city is 
also a great market for carved woodwork. The 
principal shops where watches and jewelry are sold 
are fitted up with Parisian taste and elegance, and as 
they are kept open until nine o'clock, and brilliantly 
lighted, an evening stroll along the quays, where most 
of them are situated, is one of the delights of a visit 
to this charming city. 

On one of the evenings of our stay in Geneva our 
party attended an organ concert given at the Cathedral 
by M. Haering. This concert, and several others on 
the great organs at Fribourg, Bern, and Lucerne, 
were provided by Dr. Tourjee in compliment to his 
companions ; and arrangements were made by him for 
their repetition on the visits of the several divisions. 
A printed programme was provided, which announced 
the concert in the following words : — 

St. Peter's Cathedral. 

Grand Organ Concert by M. Haering, Organist of the Cathedral, on the 

visit of Dr. Tourjee 's American Party to Geneva, July 24, 1878. 

PROGRAMME. 

1. Fantasie, Toepfer. 

2. Air du Stabat Mater, Kossiui. 

3. Pastorale : 

a Ranz cles Vaches, ...... Air National. 

b Reverie, Schumann. 

c Meditation, Gounod. 

d Priere, ........ Lef6bure. 

4. Cavatine, Meyerbeer. 

5. a Improvisation, Haering. 

b Finale (Lohengrin), R. Wagner. 



280 A SUMMER JAUNT 

The organ is an exceedingly good one, and the 
organist brought out some very grand effects in imita- 
tion of a storm in the llanz des Vaches, the perform- 
ance proving all the more effective from the fact that 
the Cathedral was very dimly lighted. A few weak 
lamps only served to make the darkness more visible, 
and to aid the imagination in picturing mountain crags 
and other stupendous forms from the dim arches and 
monuments. 

Our journey from Geneva to Ouchy, the port of 
Lausanne, was performed on one of the comfortable 
little steamers which serve for both excursions and 
regular traffic over the lovely waters of Lake Leman, 
or the Lake of Geneva, as it is also known. This is 
the largest lake in Switzerland, although its superi- 
ority in size over Lake Constance is very slight — 
some fifteen square miles. The area of Lake Leman 
is about two hundred and twenty-five square miles, 
and it is of crescent shape, with its horns turned 
southward. The easterly horn formerly extended 
nine miles further towards Bex, but the deposit 
brought down from the mountains by the Rhone has 
gradually filled that part of the lake. The northern 
shore is fifty -five miles in length, and the southern 
shore forty-eight and a half miles ; and the lake is 
about nine miles wide in its broadest part. The 
waters of Lake Leman differ from those of the other 
Swiss lakes, inasmuch as they are deep blue in color, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 281 

while the other lakes are of a greenish hue. The 
view of Geneva and its surroundings from the lake is 
very beautiful. Upon either bank are picturesque 
villas, most of these abodes of wealth and luxury 
being upon the westerly side, however, as they com- 
mand a better view. The water is dotted with pleas- 
ure craft, the graceful lateen-sail seen upon the Med- 
iterranean and the Scottish lakes being used here also. 
The house occupied by Byron is pointed out, and at 
Pregny is the chateau of Baron Adolf Eothschild. 
Mont Blanc should have been seen, but persistently 
kept his lofty brow veiled in clouds. Out on the 
broader part of the lake, the southern shore presents 
bolder features, the background being formed by 
masses of rugged mountains ; while on the northern 
shore, the more graceful slopes are rich in vineyards. 
At Coppet, a chateau where Necker and his daughter, 
Madame de Stael, resided, is seen; and uear Nyon is 
a handsome chateau formerly occupied by Bonaparte. 
The Dole, one of the most conspicuous summits of 
the Jura Mountains, rises in rear of Nyon. At Rolle, 
Laharpe, the tutor of Alexander I. of Russia, was 
born, and a monument to his memory has been erected 
upon a little island near the shore. At Nyon and 
Morges some ancient castles are seen. At the end of 
a three hours' sail we disembark at Ouchy and proceed 
up the steep, zigzag streets in omnibuses, to the 
quaint old city of Lausanne. 



282 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Lausanne is situated on many levels, partly on the 
edge of three hills, shoulders of the Jorat, and partly in 
the gorges opening at their feet. Streets, terraces, 
and lanes mount, cross, and descend in a most fantas- 
tic manner. In one place a stately bridge crosses a 
ravine, and in another a street burrows beneath a hill. 
Upon one eminence stands an old castle, and at an- 
other level is the Cathedral. This latter edifice was 
erected in the thirteenth century. It was conse- 
crated by Gregory X. in the presence of Rudolph, of 
Hapsburg, and within its walls, in 1536, took place 
the famous disputation in which Calvin, Farel, and 
Viret participated, and which resulted in the removal 
of the Episcopal See to Fribourg, the separation of 
Yaud from the Romish Church, and the suppression of 
the supremacy of Savoy. Some of the ancient adorn- 
ments of the church are missing, but the edifice 
contains some old monuments. Deep in the stone 
pavement is a cavity, said to have been made by the 
faithful of past centuries in kneeling before the figure 
of the Virgin Mary. For a year or two past the 
church has been undergoing restoration. A terrace 
near the church commands a fine view of the city, of 
the lake, and of the noble peaks of the Savoy Alps 
beyond. During our stay at Lausanne, our head- 
quarters were at the Hotel Gibbon, from the terrace of 
which there was a most glorious view at sunset, the 
Dent d'Oche, and the other high summits across the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 283 

blue waters, being suffused with a roseate flush as the 
God of Day sank into his golden bed. It was here 
that Gibbon finished his history of Rome, and the very 
nook in the garden of the- hotel is pointed out where 
the great author did much of his work. It is an in- 
spiring spot, better fitted for day-dreaming, however, 
than for such matter-of-fact labor. Aside from the 
Cathedral, and the handsome Pont-Pichard which leads 
from one part of the town to another, there is little in 
Lausanne of interest to the chance visitor, except the 
glorious view, which, of itself, is enough to make the 
place famous.* The society of the town is said to be 
very intelligent and refined, and its schools, both 
public and private, have a high reputation. 

The next day after our arrival at Lausanne, we made 
an excursion up the lake, by steamer, to the Castle of 
Chillon. It was a most delightful journey. The east- 
ern extremity of the lake is more beautiful and pictur- 
esque than that lying towards Geneva. The moun- 
tains are higher, the vineyards are more numerous, 
and there is a succession of charming little towns and 
hamlets where one could seemingly take everlasting 
comfort. Vevey is a large and quite pretentious 
watering-place, much patronized by French, English, 
American, and Russian pleasure-seekers. Beyond 
Vevey lie Clarens and Montreux, the former immor- 
talized by Rousseau and Byron ; by the latter as — 

" Clarens, sweet Clarens ! birthplace of deep love ! '" 



284 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Then we come to the little hamlet of Territet, near 
which, at the edge of the lake, is the grim old castle 
which Byron's poem, "The Prisoner of Chillon," has 
made so celebrated. Although not altogether a truthful 
history of the sufferings of Francis Bonivard, of Gene- 
va, who was here imprisoned by the cruel Duke of 
Savoy in the early part of the sixteenth, century, the 
world will choose to associate it with his unhappy 
fate : — 

" Chillon ! thy prison is a holy place, 

And thy sad floor an altar ! for 'twas trod, 

Until his very steps have left a trace, 
Worn, as if thy cold pavement were a sod, 

By Bonivard ! may none these marks efface, 
For they appeal from tyranny to God." 

Byron visited the castle in 1816, and hearing 
some imperfect traditions of its history, wrote the 
poem while storm-bound in a hotel at Ouchy. The 
old castle was built more than a thousand years ago, 
and one of its earliest prisoners was the Count of 
Mala, the grandson of Charles Martel. In the thir- 
teenth century it was rebuilt by Duke Peter of Savoy, 
It now belongs to the Canton of Yaud, and is a modern 
arsenal. Visitors are shown through the gloomy old 
edifice by the most talkative guides. The intelligent 
leader of our party was a handsome girl, who was 
much too pretty for such service. She would inevi- 
tably distract the attention of the visitor from the for- 






THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 285 

bidding old dungeons to her own sweet and modest 
face. Our guide told, in sweet accents, the tales of 
wrong and cruelty practised by the hard-hearted old 
duke, and pointed out the pillar to which Bonivard 
was chained; the place worn by his feet in the stone 
pavement ; the dungeon where the condemned passed 
their last night on earth ; the fatal staircase which led 
into the deep, still waters of the lake ; and then 
the comfortable apartments, and the chapel of the 
tyrants who once occupied the place. The chamber of 
the duchess has a most beautiful outlook upon the 
Alps and the valley of the Eh one, with the lake in the 
foreground. Near Vevey is the ancient chateau of 
Latour, which was also a residence of the dukes of 
Savoy. There may be seen the same accompaniments 
of the ducal rule, — dungeons, and the means of tor- 
ture. 

From the Castle of Chillon we returned to Ouchy 
and Lausanne, regretting all the while that the sail 
was not longer. Between Ouchy and Lausanne is an 
inclined railway, worked by hydraulic power. It is 
sixteen hundred and fifty yards long, and the 
steepest gradient is one in nine. There is a tunnel 
about midway up the incline, and one or two inter- 
mediate stations. There are two lines of rail, and 
while one train ascends, another descends, each serv- 
ing to keep the other in equilibrium. 

On our return to Lausanne we met the " Circassia " 



286 A SUMMEU JATJKT 

division of the Tourjee party, the members of which 
had landed in Scotland a week earlier than the chief 
expedition. The same evening we proceeded by rail 
over a picturesque route to Fribourg, forty-one miles 
distant. In the economy of the Schweizerische West- 
bahn this distance meant a ride of two hours and 
twenty-seven minutes. As darkness came on soon 
after we left Lausanne, little was to be seen except 
the beautiful expanse of the Lake of Geneva, and the 
mountains beyond, as we climbed the slopes. It was 
quite dark when we went through the ancient walled 
town of Romont, which is twenty-five miles from 
Lausanne, and therefore saw little of it or of its pic- 
turesque surroundings. A castle situated near the rail- 
way was founded by one of the Burgundian kings in 
the tenth century. Near Oron-le-Chatel, ten miles 
south of Romont, the cars pass through a tunnel 
directly beneath an ancient castle which surmounts a 
hill. Romont is two thousand Hve hundred and forty- 
two feet above the sea, or eight hundred and fifty- 
three feet above Lausanne, and nearly five hundred 
feet above Fribourg. 

In our omnibus ride from the station in Fribourg to 
the Zahringen Hof we saw little but narrow streets, 
very dimly lighted. We ascended to the public room 
of the hotel from a broad archway which led under 
the building, and through which vehicles could be 
driven. We were not prepared to be pleased with 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 287 

either the hotel or the town, for the reason that some 
fault-finding travellers we had met at Lausanne de- 
clared both to be unbearable. Judge of our delight, 
then, when we found the former an exceedingly com- 
fortable and well-kept house, and Fribourg itself not 
only picturesque but very inviting. The city is sit- 
uated on the Sarine, at its junction with the Got- 
teron, and there is an upper and a lower town, French 
being spoken chiefly in the former, and German in the 
latter. The banks are steep, and one of the main 
thoroughfares between the upper and lower sections is 
a long flight of stairs, with frequent landings, and 
numerous houses and shops along the way. In some 
places a street runs directly over the roofs of these 
buildings, and, in fact, the pavement of the Rue 
Grand Fontaine serves as a roof to the houses of the 
Court-Chemin below. Two high suspension bridges 
extend across the Sarine and the Gotteron, the one 
across the former river being nine hundred and sixty- 
four feet in length and one hundred and eighty-six 
feet in height, and the other seven hundred and forty- 
six feet in length and three hundred and five feet in 
height. A peculiarity of the latter is, that there are 
no towers or pillars, the wire-chains being secured in 
the sandstone cliffs on either side of the stream. 
Curious old watch-towers surmount the neighboring 
hills, and a quaint old chapel occupies a lonely site 
opposite Fribourg. 



288 A SUMMER JAUNT 

The Zahringen Hof occupies a most picturesque 
site near the town terminus of the larger bridge, and 
its pretty little garden overhangs the lower town, 
which is a hundred feet and more beneath. The chief 
buildings of interest within the city are the Cathedral 
of St. Nicholas, the Stadthaus, or town hall, which 
occupies the site of the palace of the dukes of Zah- 
ringen, and the adjacent Rathhaus, or council-hall. In 
front of these latter buildings stands an aged lime- 
tree, which has an interesting history. According to 
tradition, the twig from which the tree has grown 
was brought to the spot in 1476 by a youth who had 
come to announce the defeat of Charles the Bold at 
Morat, — an event that continues to be celebrated by 
the Swiss. Having declared the joyful tidings in the 
single word "Victory ! " he fell dead. The old tree is 
partly supported by stone pillars. 

The Cathedral is a Gothic edifice which was founded 
in 1285, and completed in 1500. It has recently 
been restored. The main portal is embellished with 
some curious old carvings in stone, representing the 
Last Judgment. Some of the groups are ludicrous. 
Fribourg, unlike Geneva and Lausanne, is a Catholic 
city, and the Catholic form of worship is still in 
vogue within its cathedral. This edifice contains a 
celebrated organ, one of the largest instruments in the 
world, in fact. It was constructed between 1824 and 
1834 by Aloyse Mooser, and has seventy stops and 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 289 

seven thousand eight hundred pipes. A concert was 
given by M. Vogt, the organist, in compliment to Dr. 
Tourjee's party. The announcement of this entertain- 
ment was as follows : — 

Fribourg Cathedral. 

Concert upon the Grand Organ, gioen on the visit of Dr. Tourjdc's Ameri- 
can Party to Fribourg, July 28, 1878. Played by M. Vogt. 

PROGRAMME. 

1. Toccata, . . Bach. 

2. Airdel'Opera "Fidelio," Beethoven. 

3. Fuga, Bach. 

4. Invocation, Guilmanfc. 

5. Chceur de l'Oratorio " Judas Maccabseus," . . Handel. 

6. Priere de " Moise en Egypte," .... Rossini. 
/. Chceur des " Quatre Saisons," .... Haydn. 
8. Pastorale, ......... J. Vogt. 

The closing number was a characteristic piece, de- 
scriptive of a storm in the mountains. The perform- 
ance was more remarkable than the one we heard at 
Geneva. The voice of the thunder, the rushing of the 
cataract and the tempest, the voices of the affrighted 
animals, and the notes of the Alpine horn, were all 
interwoven in an elaborate musical composition, and 
with thrilling effect. The concert was at night, and 
the dimly-lighted church added to the effect of the 
music as the mock thunder rolled through the lofty 
arches. The organ, as we have intimated, is a superb 
instrument, and not only in this, the chief show-piece 
of the entertainment, but also in the other selections, 



290 A SUMMER JAUNT 

its noble qualities were brought out grandly by the 
organist. The same programme was repeated to the 
other sections of the Tourjee party, July 30, August 
3, and August 6. 

From Fribourg to Bern is a pleasant railway ride 
of only nineteen and a quarter miles, and we reached 
the latter city by an early afternoon train. Bern is 
situated upon a plateau which rises about one hundred 
feet above the river Aare, and the river, at this point, 
takes a great bend, so that it flows around three' sides 
of the city. The principal streets run east and west, 
and the chief thoroughfare is about a mile in length. 
The houses in the principal parts of the old town are 
built over arcades, and the sidewalk, as well as the 
shops, are under shelter. This is a very comfortable 
arrangement in rainy weather. Streams of water run 
through the middle of the principal streets, which are 
thereby kept clean, and there are numerous fountains 
which are adorned with quaint statues. One of these 
is a grotesque figure of an ogre devouring children, 
while below is a procession of armed bears. On 
another fountain, Bruin appears with helmet, shield, 
sword, and banner. The bear is the heraldic emblem 
of Bern, and is seen everywhere in effigy, while in a 
large pit across the river, at the Nydeck Bridge, 
several of the animals are kept alive at public ex- 
pense. Two of the ancient towers are preserved, and 
one contains a clock which exhibits a number of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 291 

mechanical figures when it strikes the hours. Bruin, 
of course, bears a part in this performance. The 
Federal Council Hall is a handsome edifice in the 
Florentine style, completed twenty-one years since. 
The upper part contains a picture-gallery ; and a look- 
out on the roof, and also a terrace below, command a 
fine view of the far-away Alps of the Oberland, when 
their summits do not persist in hiding themselves in 
the clouds, as they did during our entire visit. 

The Cathedral is a Gothic structure, begun in 1421, 
completed in 1573, and quite recently restored. The 
main portal, like that of the Cathedral at Fribourg, is 
adorned with curious sculptures. The figures represent 
the Last Judgment, together with the Wise and Foolish 
Virgins. The choir contains some curious specimens 
of stained glass of the fifteenth century. Here, too, 
is a large organ, upon which concerts are frequently 
given. 

During our stay in Bern, we were quartered at the 
Hotel Bellevue, and here we met the "Italian" Divi- 
sion of the Tourjee party. After an interchange of 
congratulations, the members of both sections repaired 
to the Cathedral, to listen to an organ concert, pro- 
vided by Dr. Tourjee. The printed announcement of 
this entertainment was as follows : — 

Organ Concert. 
A special select Organ Concert will be given in the Cathedral of Bern 
to the Members of Dr. Toarjee's American Musical and Educational 



292 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Party, on Tuesday July the 30th, 1878, executed oy Dr. pli. J. Mendel, 
Organist of Bern. 

PROGRAMM. 



1. Ora pro nobis, 

2. Adagio, . 

3. Festivo, . . 

4. Priere, . 

5. Praelude et Fugue, 

6. Fautasie pastorale sur un 

air suisse (l'orage), . . de Dr. J. Mendel 



Meditation sur un Motif de Mozart. 

de Beethoven. 

de Van Eyken. 

de Ch. M. de Weber. 

de Dr. Ch. H. Kink. 



The Bern organ is a fine instrument, and Dr. Mendel 
brought out its varied qualities very effectively in the 
programme I have given. I am not, however, pre- 
pared to endorse the claim so stoutly set forth by the 
Bernese, that their organ is superior to the Fribourg 
instrument. The Fantasie Pastorale was the now 
familiar "storm-piece"; but Dr. Mendel was disposed 
to make less of it than M. Yogt, the organist of Fri- 
bourg, and the work was not nearly as characteristic 
as the one we heard from the latter. We had also 
an opportunity to hear, in the course of our stay, a 
concert by the Bernisclien Or Chester- Vereins, a very 
excellent orchestra, under Kapellmeister August Koch. 
The organization is maintained in part at the expense 
of the citizens. 

The second day of our visit to Bern chanced to fall 
upon the chief market-day of the week, when the 
country-folk of the whole district round about came 
into the city to sell or purchase. Crowds of peasants 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 293 

with little carts of vegetables and fruits, — some drawn 
by dogs or horses, but not a few by the women them- 
selves, who seem to be made the chief beasts of bur- 
den, — and the inevitable umbrella carred under the 
arm or slung across the back, poured into town at an 
early hour. By eight o'clock, and thenceforth until 
noon, all the chief streets for an aggregate of one or 
two miles in extent, were lined with booths, at which 
every article describable or indescribable was exposed 
for sale. Along" the Marktoasse and the Kramgasse 
were most tempting displays of strawberries, raspber- 
ries, cherries, blueberries, and every kind of vegetable 
the Bernese are supposed to eat. The Kesstergasse was 
lined with meat-stalls. The upper part of the Waisen- 
haus Platz revelled in the varied but pronounced per- 
fumes of the different kinds of Swiss cheese, while a 
large space below was occupied by live pigs and calves. 
Bread, straw, wood, and baskets occupied an inter- 
mediate place. Wooden-soled shoes, second-hand 
clothes, and old junk could be bought on a side street, 
and adown the Kornhaus Platz, around the Fountain of 
the Ogre, were grouped a heterogeneous collection, em- 
bracing pretty nearly everything from cow-bells to 
cradles, and from pottery to penknives. On the Gra- 
ben below were animated groups of peasants ; the men 
with low-crowned hats, and the women with the short- 
waistecl costumes, chain-ornaments, and broad-rimmed 
hats, peculiar to the dress of the Canton of Bern ; 



294 A SUMMER JAUNT 

"while, toward noon, the queer old wine-cellars under 
the Kornhaus were crowded with visitors, who washed 
down their frugal repast of bread and cheese with 
Yvorne, Neuchatel, or Lacote. The arcades were 
abandoned, and the people walked in the middle of the 
street among the stalls. It was an interesting sight, 
the people and their wares alike attracting the atten- 
tion of the stranger, whilst the latter, perhaps, afford- 
ed quite as much entertainment to the natives. 

The journey from Bern to Interlaken is very de- 
lightful. The traveller is therein led up to the pres- 
ence of the mighty mountains of the Bernese Oberland, 
and at all times he is amid scenes of singular beauty. 
The trip is made partly by rail and partly by water. 
Leaving the fine, large railway station in Bern, the 
cars cross the Aare, and, if the weather is clear, a dis- 
tant view may be had of the snow-capped mountains. 
In an hour, the old city of Thun (nineteen and a half 
miles from Bern) is reached. Thun, like Bern, has 
a peculiar arrangement of its shops and sidewalks. In 
the streets of Bern the pedestrian walks on a sidewalk 
within an arcade of stone, where the shops are located. 
In the principal street of Thun, a row of magazines 
and cellars, about ten feet in height, are on the street 
level, and on their flat roofs is the pavements for foot- 
passengers, lined on the inner side with shops. 

At Scherzligen, two miles above Thun, we were 
transferred to the steamer " Bubenborg," on the Lake 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 295 

of Thun. This lake is only ten and a half miles long, 
and two miles wide. It is environed by mountains, 
and the views in every direction from the steamer's 
deck are very picturesque and beautiful. "On leaving 
the north-western end, the banks are found to be 
studded with picturesque villas and gardens, with here 
and there an ancient castle. Beyond these, the lower 
slopes are clothed with vineyards. The church at 
Scherzligen is a quaint, castle-like structure, situated 
at the water-side. The Stockhorn and the Niesen, 
the latter a mountain seven thousand seven hundred 
and sixty-three feet high, and of peculiar conical shape, 
rise upon the right, and farther away in the direction 
of Interlaken, the Jungfrau, the Monch, the Eiger, the 
Shreckhorn, and the Wetterhorn are seen. Along 
the shore are several picturesque little towns. At 
Spiez the steamer halts to allow several rugged-look- 
ing students, bearing alpenstocks, to go on shore. 
They are bound for the Rhone Valley, over the Gemmi 
Pass, or upon some other mountain excursion in the 
neighborhood of Spiez. 

The boat finally stops at Darligen, and the passen- 
gers are transferred to the queer little cars of the 
Bodeli Railway, which connects the Lakes of Thun 
and Brienz. These lakes are only a few miles apart, 
and once must have formed a single body of water ; 
but the deposits of the Liitschine flowing into the 
Lake of Brienz, and the Lombach into the Lake of 



296 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Thun have separated them, and given a place to Inter* 
laken and its environs, which comprise the villages of 
Aarmuhle and Unterseen. The cars I have referred 
to are two-storied, much like those upon the tramways 
in London and Paris, except that the upper seats are 
covered by a roof, while a high wire-guard keeps the 
passengers from tumbling off. An upper seat is, of 
course, desirable, even for the short ride, since it gives 
the better view of the surrounding country. 

Interlaken is a village of large hotels and pensions. 
The chief street, the Hoheweg, is lined with them, 
and the neighboring buildings are largely shops which 
are supported solely by the patronage of visitors. 
There is a Kursaal, with an adjoining garden, where 
concerts are given by a good orchestra two or three 
times a clay. But the chief charm of this delightful 
summer resort is the magnificent view of the Jung- 
frau, which lies some miles to the south of Interlaken. 
There are two near mountains, between which the 
Lutschine flows, and up the valley the Jungfrau is 
seen, rising to the height of twelve thousand eight 
hundred and twenty-eight feet (two thousand nine 
hundred and fifty-three feet less than Mont Blanc), 
its sides entirely covered with snow. The lower 
slopes are hidden, so that the mountain rises into 
view a majestic form of pure, snowy whiteness. To 
the right is the pointed summit of the Silberhorn ; 
and from the Kleine Eugen, a little mountain which 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 297 

stands just out of the village, the lofty crest of the 
Monch, only two hundred and nineteen feet lower 
than the Jungfrau, is also seen. From that point both 
lakes are also in sight. 

Back of Interlaken rises the Harder, a mountain 
five thousand two hundred and sixteen feet high, the 
scene of the adventure of young Roland, whom Long- 
fellow has embalmed in his "Excelsior." The scene 
of Byron's " Manfred " is laid near Interlaken ; and 
the legend of "Blue Beard" is associated with a 
neighboring castle. 

An excursion to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald 
occupied a day very pleasantly. The former place is 
seven and a half miles from Interlaken, the road lying 
up the valley of the White Lutschine, which joins at 
the little village of Zweiltitschinen, the Black Lilts- 
chine. The latter river flows from the direction of 
Grindelwald. The road leads up the valley between 
high mountains, with the Jungfrau and other of the 
highest peaks in front, and many picturesque cascades 
on either side. Lauterbrunnen itself has an elevation 
of two thousand six hundred and fifteen feet, although 
situated in a deep valley, between precipitous moun- 
tains. The inhabitants are kept in their houses during 
the winter by the deep snows, and then manufac- 
ture the wood carvings and little ornaments, canes, 
and alpen-stocks which are sold to summer visitors. 
The women, and children also, do something of a 



298 A SUMMER JAUNT 

trade in the sale of cheap lace, which is made by the 
women themselves in front of the houses ; and these 
abodes are thoroughly Swiss in architecture and sur- 
roundings. 

The fall of the Staubbach (Dust-brook), the chief 
of Lauterbrunnen's numerous cascades, has an un- 
broken descent of nine hundred and eighty feet, and 
is the highest waterfall in all Europe. Its pure bright 
waters sweep down so mistily as to be almost noise- 
less. The soft wind waves it to and fro like some 
long bridal veil falling from the face of one of the vir- 
gin hills that wait upon the Jungfrau bride ; or like a 
knightly plume dropping gracefully from the crest of 
a giant guard. 

We drove back to Zweilutsckinen, on our way to 
Grinclelwald, which lies twelve miles from Interlaken. 
There is also a bridle-path from Lauterbrunnen over the 
Wengern Alp and the Little Scheideck, but the former 
route is traversed by carriages. Grinclelwald has an 
elevation of three thousand four hundred and sixty- 
eight feet, and is quite a populous village. Its inhabit- 
ants are chiefly herdsmen. The pastures in the valley 
are said to support six thousand head of cattle. 
High up on the mountain-sides clinging to the diminu- 
tive fields of green, and apparently in danger of slid- 
ing off into the valley below, are cow-houses, and one 
wonders how the creatures ever got up there, or, once 
there, how they get down again. Grindelwald con- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 299 

tains several good hotels, and forms one of the best- 
known headquarters of Alpine climbers, who start out 
from here for the ascent of the Jungfrau, the Faulhorn, 
and the Mettenberg; or on various glacier expedi- 
tions and the passage of some of the most difficult 
passes. 

There are two glaciers near Grindelwald which are 
very accessible, the lower lying between the Eiger 
and the Mettenberg, and the upper lying between the 
latter mountain and the Wetterhorn. Both may be 
visited on foot or on horseback. Most of our party 
chose the lower glacier, and the former mode of loco- 
motion. The afternoon was rainy, and the path was 
muddy and disagreeable across the valley, and slip- 
pery on the rocks above, but the climb of a mile or a 
mile and a half, even under these conditions, was 
amply repaid in the novelty of visiting a glacier. Ice 
is here gathered for the hotels at Interlaken, and run 
down into the valley by a gravity railway. An enter- 
prising gatherer of unconsidered half-franc pieces has 
constructed a grotto in the glacier, and the visitor 
may penetrate the immense crystal mass to the depth 
of one hundred feet or more. 

The guides at Grindelwald are numerous and very 
persistent, and, upon the difficult and dangerous 
mountain ascents frequently made from this place, of 
unquestioned usefulness ; but upon these little excur- 
sions to the glaciers they are of no assistance whatever. 



300 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Nevertheless, they make the most frantic efforts to im- 
press themselves into the stranger's service, and it is 
found difficult to obtain the merest scrap of informa- 
tion from any source unless one of them has been 
emploj'ed. A member of one of the American parties 
hit upon a very happy expedient to rid himself of their 
importunities. A crowd of persistent fellows had 
followed him and a party of ladies some distance up 
the path, when he bethought himself of the words of a 
Greek tragedy committed to memory when a school- 
boy. At the next onslaught, he turned upon them, 
and assuming a commanding attitude, launched upon 
them in stentorian tones the impassioned measures of 
this drama. The guides looked upon each other in a 
puzzled sort of way, and before our friend had half 
finished his philippic, they had turned back in dismay, 
evidently expecting something more striking still at 
the next discharge of "Greek fire." 

While riding to either Grindelwald or Lauterbrun- 
nen, the stranger is made acquainted with the Alpine 
horn, which is used at several places to raise an echo, 
— and a few centimes. These instruments are made 
of wood, and generally wound with thongs of wood and 
bark. When skilfully blown, their notes have a sin- 
gularly pleasing effect. They are heavy and cum- 
brous, some of them being six or eight feet long, and it 
is the fashion to rest the larger end upon a projecting 
rock, or a forked post, while the performer evokes the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 301 

echoes by a liberal expenditure of breath at the little 
end of the horn. 

AVe stopped, while in Interlaken, at the fine Hotel 
Eitschard, and on our return from our excursion to 
Grinclelwald, we found at the Hotel Victoria, across 
the way, the second division of the Tourjee excursion- 
ists, whom we had not seen since we left London. 

AA^e left Interlaken by the little Bodeli Railway, 
and at Bonigen, on the Lake of Brienz, took a steamer 
for Giessbach. The Lake of Brienz is even smaller 
than its neighbor of Thun, and although its shores are 
very picturesque, the near mountains shut out the 
view of the higher peaks. Its length is seven and a 
half miles, and its width two miles. Giessbach is 
situated near the upper end of the lake, and opposite 
the town of Brienz. Here are the famous fails, the 
river at this point descending to the lake by a series 
of cascades one thousand one hundred and forty-eight 
feet. A magnificent hotel, one of the best in Switzer- 
land, has been built upon a plateau directly in front of 
the falls, five hundred feet above the lake, and every 
evening the cascades are illuminated by Bengal lights. 
This exhibition proved much more pleasing than was 
anticipated, for it seemed that nature was lovely 
enough without being gilded. Colored lights were 
cast upon the masses of falling water, and upon the dark 
foliage of the mountain-side, with very enchanting 
effect. A path leads up the mountain, beside the 



302 A SUMMER JAUNT 

stream, and there are several bridges in advantageous 
places to see the falls. The Falls of the Giessbach 
were brought into notice in 1818, chiefly by the efforts 
of a schoolmaster named Kehrli, and a tablet, inserted 
in the rocky wall of the roadway leading up to the 
hotel, commemorates the circumstance in the following 
inscription : — 

Zum Andenkin 

AU 

Johannes Kerhli 

welcher zuerst 

die Falle des Giessbachs 

den freunden der natup 

zuganglich maciite. 

We made an early-morning departure from the hotel 
at the Falls, walking clown the zigzag road to the 
steamboat-landing. Walking is generally resorted to 
by visitors in ascending from the landing to the hotel, 
or in descending, although invalids, or lazily-inclined 
persons, are transported in chairs, or in a small one- 
horse carriage. These are the only vehicular accom- 
modations of the place, with the exception of a dimin- 
utive car for the luggage. Luckily, trunks of the 
"Saratoga" pattern are unknown to Swiss porters, 
or, at least, hereabout. One of those abominations 
would overwhelm the transportation facilities afforded 
by the avenue of approach to the Hotel Giessbach, 
and necessity might compel its removal in sections. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 303 

The delights of that morning walk in the pure, health- 
inspiring mountain air, with the joyous music of the 
cascade ringing in our ears as it leaped from crag to 
crag to greet the placid lake below, will long live in 
memory as a sweet inspiration. While awaiting the 
boat from Bonigen we were entertained by the singing 
of a trio of Swiss girls, one of whom had a remarkably 
sweet soprano voice. Swiss music, or, at least, the 
kind the traveller hears among the mountains, is of a 
peculiarly wild, free character, which seems to gain its 
life and inspiration from the hills themselves, although 
there is an undercurrent of that happy spirit of peace 
and content which seems to characterize the Swiss 
peasantry. The jodel, which is of Tyrolean origin, is 
often heard. Southey says, in describing this music, 
fr Surely the wildest chorus that was ever heard by hu- 
man ears ; a song, not of articulate sounds, but in 
which the voice is used as a mere instrument of music, 
more flexible than any which art could produce ; 
sweet, powerful, and thrilling beyond description." 
At Interlaken a concert was given in the Kursaal by 
some Tyrolean musicians, one of whom was a fine zither- 
player. 

The sail across the head of the lake to Brienz was 
all too short, for the day was most inviting. At 
Brienz carriages were in waiting to carry us over the 
Brunig Pass to Alpnach, on the Lake of Lucerne, a 
distance of about twenty-five miles. This is one of 



304 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the lower of the Alpine passes, but the scenery is very 
picturesque, and the journey across is rendered very 
interesting. For a few miles after leaving Brienz the 
road has only a gentle ascent, and, in fact, is nearly 
level. Quite a sharp ascent is then entered upon by a 
series of zigzags. A pedestrian can avoid going over 
much of the ground by taking cross-paths, and the 
three miles or more of roadway is thus materially 
lessened. Besides, it is advisable to walk up this side 
of the pass so as to better enjoy the grand scenery, 
although it should be mentioned, it is far preferable to 
cross the Brunig Pass from the opposite direction, so 
as to have the best scenery always before the eye. In 
ascending, the traveller has constantly to' turn to be- 
hold the beautiful landscape which is unfolding itself 
behind him. The valley of the Aare, formerly a use- 
less morass, but now a richly-cultivated district, the 
river having been confined to a single channel by 
artificial means, is at the foot of the range the Brunig 
road is climbing, and upon the mountain-wall opposite, 
some of whose peaks are flecked with snow, are sev- 
eral beautiful cascades, the chief of which is the pictur- 
esque Oltschibach, which the traveller sees successively 
from every point of view. Farther up the valley lies 
Meiringen, which is one of the approaches to the 
Grimsel Pass, and also to the Susten and Joch Passes. 
This charming little town was almost wholly destroyed 
by fire in the autumn of 1878. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 305 

At one place, on the way up the Brunig Pass, the 
roadway — at all points finely constructed and ad- 
mirably kept — is hewn from the solid rock, a huge 
mass of which overhangs. Just here a dozen girls, 
with baskets of strawberries and raspberries to sell, 
had established themselves. Farther on, milk could 
be bought, and near the summit of the pass, which is 
three thousand three hundred and ninety-six feet high, 
is an excellent inn, where wine of good quality is the 
staple beverage. On the northern descent the scenery 
is less interesting, yet very pleasing. Lungern is a 
little village at the foot of the Brunig, and here we 
halted at the Hotel du Lion d'Or, for lunch. The 
road passes the little lakes of Lungern and Sarnen, 
and also through the town of Sarnen, which is the 
most important place on the route. While midway on 
the road, we met the third section of Dr. Tourjee's 
party, headed by Carl Zerrahn. There was a general 
halt, and a lively, but hurried interchange of greet- 
ings, as the passengers by the regular diligences, who 
were at the rear of our two caravans, were impatient 
of delay. At Alpnach-Gestad, we took the steamer 
" Stadt-Basel " for Lucerne, and the sail of a dozen 
miles or so across the Vierwaldstatter-See (Lake of 
the Four Cantons), which is called the Lake of Lu- 
cerne, for short, was most thoroughly enjoyed. 

At Lucerne we tarried no longer than to await 
another boat, intending to return on the morrow, and, 



306 A SUMMER JAUNT 

embarking once more, we sailed up the Lake of 
Lucerne to Vitznau, one of the towns which lie at the 
foot of the Rigi. The Rigi is the most frequented 
mountain in all Europe. Its height (five thousand 
nine hundred and six feet above the sea, or four thou- 
sand four hundred and seventy-two feet above the 
Lake of Lucerne) is not as great as our own Mount 
Washington, but on account of its isolated position, it 
commands a beautiful and very extended panorama 
three hundred miles in circumference. There are three 
railways on the mountain, two of which, of the Mount 
Washington pattern, convey passengers between the 
base and the summit. The other, which runs along the 
side and to the south end of the mountain for a distance 
of several miles, is of the ordinary kind. The Eigi 
railway from Vitznau was constructed at about the 
same time Mr. Sylvester Marsh was building his rail- 
way up the side of Mount Washington. The one 
from Arth, which is situated on the Lake of Zug, was 
built later. There are four other cog railways for 
ascending heights in Europe, two of which are in 
Switzerland, and one each in Austria and Hungary. 

The ascent of the Rigi unfolds a succession of very 
beautiful views. First the lake, and the wooded or 
grassy slopes of the mountains on the other side, with 
the picturesque village of Vitznau, which is literally 
under the beholder's feet, attract attention. As the 
car rises higher, the view extends, and the majestic 



v 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 307 

Pilatus, which is only a few miles away, and the dis- 
tant snow-capped peaks, are seen in all their beauty. 
The road passes through a tunnel aud over a high 
bridge. Higher up the hotels begin to appear, and 
the mountain seems to be covered by them. Our own 
destination is the Hotel Rigi-Kulm at the end of the 
route, and the highest point of all. The sun set in a 
mass of clouds, but there was a momentary scene of 
splendor when the orb of day burst forth like a mass 
of fire, suffusing all around with a roseate flush and 
lighting up the neighboring peaks with a strange 
weird glow. 

The guests at the Rigi-Kulm are aroused from their 
morning slumbers by a succession of performances on 
the Alpine horn. This is more romantic than the 
dinner-bell on Mount Washington, but when the per- 
former toots away again in salutation of the morn, as 
Sol peeps over the distant mountain-tops, and then 
passes a hat around through the shivering, blinking 
crowd of early-risers for contributions, the romance Is 
dispelled. The visitor is generally content, however, 
to pay the small tax for a performance which has per- 
chance saved him from oversleeping and earned him 
the opportunity to witness the spectacle of a gorgeous 
sunrise. 

Our sunrise was certainly gorgeous. There were 
clouds again, but they served to beautify the scene, as 
the sun's early rays suffused them, as well as the distant 



308 a summeti jaunt 

snow-coverecl peaks, with soft, rosy tints. The lakes 
of Lucerne and Zusr were covered bv white masses of 
clouds and wholly obscured from view, but under the 
influence of the warm sun, the fleecy waves rose upon 
the sides of the mountain to engulf us. 

There are three lakes at the foot of the Rigi, the 
two above named, and the little Lake of Lowerz, 
which was the scene of a terrible disaster in 1806, 
when an enormous mountain-slide obliterated a large 
part of the sheet of water and buried wholly the little 
village of Goldau. 

Breakfast over — and here let me remark that the 
hotel is the best kept mountain-house I ever visited — 
we descended by the railway to Vitznau. Instead of 
returning directly from thence to Lucerne, we took a 
boat going the opposite way, and so enjoyed an excur- 
sion over the most picturesque part of the beautiful 
Lake of Lucerne. The lake in some parts resembles 
a river rather than a broad sheet of water, and it is 
bordered by high and stately cliffs, with lofty moun- 
tains rising from the water's edge. Along the side of 
the cliff for much of the way, often hewn out of the 
solid rock, and in some places through galleries or 
tunnels, lies the celebrated Axenstrasse, leading from 
Gersau to Brunnen and Fluelen, and over which the 
railway will run when the great St. Gothard tunnel is 
completed. We went as far as Fluelen, near which 
"William Toll's Chapel is situated. This is a small 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 309 

edifice, open on the lake side, and the interior is dec- 
orated with rude frescos illustrating scenes in the life 
of the Swiss patriot. The chapel is near the bank, 
and the interior is plainly seen from the passing 
steamer. Altorf, two miles from Fliielen on the St. 
Gothard route, is the traditional scene of the exploit 
of William Tell in shooting the apple from his son's 
head. A colossal statue of Tell, in plaster, presented 
to Altorf in 1861 by the riflemen of Zurich, is said to 
occupy the spot where Tell stood. On the opposite 
side of the lake from where TelPs Chapel stands, but 
nearer Brunnen, high up the rocky cliff, are the three 
springs of the Rutli, or Griitli, which mark the spot 
where the thirty-three patriots of Uri, Schwyz, and 
Unterwalden met on the memorable night of the 7th 
of November, 1307, and bound themselves by an oath 
to drive their oppressors forth. This plateau, and an 
inn built thereon, belong to the Swiss Confederation. 
Not far from this spot, a pyramid of rock, eighty feet 
in height, rises from the lake. It has been inscribed 
to Schiller, the "Bard of Tell," and a second inscrip- 
tion tells of a young Swiss officer who lost his life 
there. Brunnen is a flourishing town, and is much 
resorted to by summer travellers on account of its 
beautiful situation. Some quaint old warehouses, to 
be seen from the lake, are decorated with frescos 
upon the outside of the walls. Gersau is a little vil- 
lage which occupies a shelf between the waters of the 



310 A SUMMER JAUNT 

lake and the towering Rigi-Sckeideck. For over four 
centuries (from 1390 until 1798, when the French de- 
prived it of its rights), this^ little corner of the earth, 
with scarcely eight square miles of territory at its 
command, boasted of being an independent state. It 
was annexed to the canton of Schwyz in 1817. There 
are various reminders of William Tell and the tyrant 
Gessler, other than those I have mentioned, one of 
which is a second " Tell's Chapel " which is situated 
between Kiissnacht and Immensee. The former place 
is at the extremity of one of the arms of the Lake of 
the Four Cantons, and the latter lies between two and 
three miles distant on the Lake of Zug. Near Kiiss- 
nacht stood Gesslcr's Castle. Upon the shores near 
Lucerne are many charming villas, in one of which, the 
villa of Tribschen, Richard Wagner resided several 
years. On the opposite bank is the picturesque 
chateau of Neu-Hapsburg, behind which rises the 
tower of an ancient castle once occupied by Rudolph, 
Count of Hapsburg, afterwards emperor of Germany. 
The castle was destroyed by the Lucerners in 1352. 

At Lucerne we remained over Sunday, making our 
headquarters at the Hotel Schwanen. The city is 
most charmingly situated at the outlet of the lake, 
with the river Reuss running swiftly through it, on its 
way towards the Rhine. The outlook across the clear 
waters of the lake is very picturesque. To the right 
rises Mount Pilatus, with its group of peaks, the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 311 

highest of which, the Tomlishorn, rises to the altitude 
of six thousand nine hundred and ninety-eight feet. 
To the left, only a few miles away, is the Rigi. In 
the distance are some of the lofty peaks of the Ber- 
nese Oberland, which reach into the region of per- 
petual snows. The town has preserved its watch- 
towers and ancient walls, which were erected in 1385, 
and in other regards retains some marks of its anti- 
quity. There are two old covered bridges across the 
river, both of which are adorned with pictures. These 
are for foot passage only, but two other modern 
structures, one of which is a broad iron bridge, paved 
with stone, furnish the means of vehicular communi- 
cation from one part of the town to the otjier. The 
Kapellbrlicke , one of the two ancient bridges, runs 
obliquely across the stream, and connected with it, 
almost in mid-river, is the picturesque old Wasser- 
thurm, which contains the archives of the town. 
Tradition has it that this building was once used as a 
light-house (lucerna) , and that the town derived its 
name therefrom. The pictures are upon cross-pieces 
beneath the roof, and are seen only by persons cross- 
ing on the bridges. The Kapellbrlicke is thus 
adorned with one hundred and fifty-four paintings, 
representing scenes from the lives of St. Leodegar 
and St. Mauritius, the patron saints of Lucerne. 
While crossing the Spreurbriicke, which is further 
down the stream, there is an opportunity to con tern- 



312 A SUMMER JAUNT 

plate a series of illustrations of "The Dance of 
Death." The fine Schweizerhof-Quay, with its hand- 
some hotels and charming avenue of chestnuts, was 
reclaimed from the lake in 1852. 
. Lucerne is intensely Catholic, but its summer pop- 
ulation includes many Protestants, and here, as else- 
where in Switzerland, the government exercises a 
degree of -control over the church edifices that often 
tends to open a Catholic place of worship for Prot- 
estant meetings. During the summer of 1878, the 
Maria Hi If Church, an old convent chapel, was occu- 
pied by the Scotch Presbyterians, and on the' Sunday 
of our visit, Rev. Mr. Macdonald, of Boston, a mem- 
ber of Dr„ Tourjee's party, was invited to preach 
there. 

The Cathedral, or Hofkirche is an ancient edifice 
which was restored in the seventeenth century. Its 
two slender towers were built in 1506. The church 
contains a handsome pulpit, carved stalls, some hand- 
some stained-glass windows, two side altars with 
reliefs in carved wood, and several very good paint- 
ings. In addition, it contains a magnificent organ, 
which fairly vies with the Fribourg instrument. In 
arcades on the exterior, are some quaint reliefs repre- 
senting scriptural scenes. The churchyard contains 
several very interesting monuments. 

Lucerne has a veritable lion in the celebrated piece 
of sculpture designed by Thorwaldsen. It is a colos- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 313 

sal figure of a dying lion (twenty-eight feet in length) . 
The animal is reclining in a grotto, transfixed by a 
lance, and shelters the Bourbon lily with its paw. It 
was hewn from the natural sandstone, and com- 
memorates the bravery of the Swiss soldiers who 
defended the Tuileries, in Paris, on the 2d and 3d of 
September, 1792. The work is very impressive, and 
its very situation, amid trees, and over a dark pool of 
water caused by a spring which flows from the top, 
adds to its effect. Near the lion is the Glacier Garden, 
which contains some very wonderful evidences of the 
action of glaciers, discovered only a few years ago. 
There are several "glacier mills" in the sandstone, one 
of which is twenty-seven feet in diameter, and eighteen 
feet deep, and the granite "mill-stones" are in several 
instances of hu^e dimensions. There are eighteen of 
these holes within a comparatively small space. They 
were first discovered while excavations were in prog- 
ress for building operations. The granite bowlders 
must have come from a great distance in the glaciers, 
as there are no similar formations nearer than the St. 
Gotharcl Pass, ' except where deposits of the same 
character have been made by glacial action. A 
pavilion within the Glacier Garden contains an inter- 
esting relief map of Central Switzerland, made by 
General Pfyffer. 

The fourth of the series of organ concerts, given on 
the occasion of the visit of Dr. Tourjee's party to 



314 A SUMMER JAUNT 



Switzerland, took place in Lucerne in accordance with 
the following announcement : — 



Lucerne Cathedral. 

Concert upon the Grand Organ, given on the visit of Dr. Tourjeds Ameri- 
can Party to Lucerne, August 3, 1878. Played by Mr. P. Ambros 
Meyer 

PROGRAMME. 

I. 

1. Concert variations upon the Harmonious Blacksmith, Hsendel. 

2. Solo upon the Vox Humana. 

3. Adagio from the C Major Symphony, .... Haydn. 

4. Prayer, Lemmens. 

II. 

1. Description of a storm. 

2. Concert variations on God Save the King, . . . Hesse. 

It will be seen that the programme was much the 
same as those presented at Geneva, Fribourg, and 
Bern. The Lucerne organ is a fine instrument, and 
M. Meyer is a musician of high repute. The usual 
"storm-piece " was played, and well played too. The 
thunder crashing from crag to crag, the moaning of 
the winds, the rushing of the mountain torrent, and 
the pastoral songs of the peasants mingled with the 
notes of the Alpine horn, and the tinkling of cow- 
bells, are generally imitated with more or less distinct- 
ness ; but the traveller may find the real thing in the 
mountains without much trouble. The organists seem 
to look upon the business as a necessity, in order to 
popularize their concerts, although it is to be noted 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 315 

that M. Haering, of Geneva, and Dr. Mendel, of 
Bern, seem to have entered into it more gingerly than 
the others, judging from the length of the pieces per- 
formed, and the manner of their arrangement. The 
Lucerne organ has a marvellously sweet vox humana 
stop, which M. Meyer is extravagantly fond of using. 
It is of a soft and most delicious quality, and quite 
free from the strong reediness which is found in some 
organs. The instrument is remarkably even in quality 
throughout, and the full organ attains volume and 
power without harshness. 

Our party met at Lucerne several familiar American 
faces. One was that of Rev. George C. Lorimer, D. 
D., of Boston. Sunday evening Rev. Dr. Lorimer 
held a praise service in one of the drawing-rooms of 
the Hotel Schwanen, Dr. Tourjee directing the musical 
exercises. 

From Lucerne to Zurich by railway via Zug, is a 
distance of thirty-seven and a half miles, and the 
country traversed is beautiful and well cultivated. 
Zug is a place of something less than five thousand 
inhabitants, and is the capital of the smallest of the 
Swiss cantons. 

Zurich is a populous and beautiful city, and is most 
charmingly situated at the northern extremity of the 
lake of the same name. The city lies chiefly along 
the banks of the lake, and upon either side of the 
river Limmat, which is the outlet of the lake, and 



316 A SUMMER JAUNT 

which divides the town into the Grosse Stadt and 
Kleine Stadt. The river Sihl flows through the west- 
ern part of the town, and unites with the Limmat 
a short distance from the lake. The Polytechnic 
School and other public edifices are on the heights 
east of the Limmat, and there are shaded avenues on 
the slopes, commanding beautiful views of the town. 
The lake shores are adorned with vineyards, farms, 
and pretty villages. An elevation, called the Uctliberg, 
extends along for several miles, just below Zurich, 
west of the lake ; and, far away over the waters in the 
south, are the blue outlines of the Alps. The city is 
renowned for its educational institutions, which 
include a university and a polytechnic school, and for 
the culture and intelligence of its people. . There is 
also an air of business thrift and prosperity which is 
not as noticeable in every Swiss city. The railway 
station is the handsomest, best arranged, as well as 
the largest to be seen in all Switzerland, and the new 
Bahnhof Strasse, which runs therefrom directly through 
the city, is a broad, handsome avenue, already lined 
with stately and costly edifices which would do honor 
to Paris, Vienna, or London. Our hotel was the 
Bellevue, one of the proprietors of which, Mr. Pohl, 
took special pains to show our party through the city 
and its environs. The house, like most Swiss 
hotels of the best class, is exceedingly comfortable, 
and its situation, on the border of the lake, is certainly 
very charming. 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 317 

The sights of Zurich may be " clone " in a day and a 
half, but a much longer time may be spent in the city 
and its vicinity with pleasure and profit. Many 
pleasant excursions can be made upon and about the 
lake. One of the chief attractions within the city is 
the town library, and the collection of the Antiquarian 
Society, both of which are contained in the Wasser- 
kirche, an ancient church edifice, which once stood in 
the river Limmat, and now joins its eastern bank. 
Many interesting objects are preserved in these col- 
lections, including autograph letters of Zwingli, Lady 
Jane Grey, Henry IV. of France, and Frederick the 
Great, together with busts of Lavater, by Dannecker ; 
Pestalozzi, by Imhof, &c. There are also several 
relief-maps of Switzerland. The library includes 
about one hundred thousand volumes. The greatest 
value, however, will attach to the relics of the lake 
dwellers of Switzerland, which have been collected by 
the Antiquarian Society in profusion. This collection 
is the largest in existence, and has been arranged and 
classified with great care. 

From the Wasserkirche we went to the Gross 
Minister, an old church dating back to the eleventh 
century, and occupying a site where a still older 
church existed. The edifice has little beyond its 
antiquity to recommend it to attention. A statue of 
Charlemagne occupies a niche in one of the towers. 
The military establishment of Zurich is quite exten- 



318 A SUMMER JAUNT 

sive, and the arsenal contains a fine museum of ancienl 
arms and armor. The " crossbow of William Tell " h 
shown ; but the ancient ownership of the weapon 
needs verification. There are so many of these bows 
which are said to have been TelPs, that the traveller 
grows incredulous after a while. The battle-axe, 
sword, coat of mail, and helmet of Zwingli, who 
was killed while battling with the Reformers against 
the Catholics, at the battle of Kappel, Oct. 11, 1531, 
are also shown. 

In company with Mr. Pohl, we ascended the Uetli- 
ber2T« Crossing the foot of the lake in boats from the 
Hotel Bellevue, we entered a canal bordered by hand- 
some dwellings, and having some of the characteristics 
of the grand canal of Venice. Alighting from the 
boats, we had only a short distance to go to a station 
from whence a railway, not of the Eigi pattern, but of 
the ordinary kind, leads to the top. The views, both 
in going up and at the summit, are very fine, and are 
exceeded only by those from the Bigi, which is a 
mountain of the same class, though considerably 
higher. The elevation of the Uetliberg is only 
twenty-eight hundred and sixty-four feet above the 
sea, or fifteen hundred and twenty-three feet above 
the lake ; but its isolated position gives a glorious 
outlook upon Zurich and its beautiful surroundings, 
and upon the distant panorama of the Alps. There 
are at the top a large hotel and a gigantic beer-garden, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 319 

where sunrise concerts are frequently given in the 
summer, more especially Sunday mornings. 

In the evening we attended a fine concert at the 
Tonhalle. Zurich is a very musical city, and its pro- 
visions for the musical entertainment of its citizens 
are of the best order. The Tonhalle contains a large 
apartment where festivals and winter concerts are 
held, together with spacious billiard, smoking, and 
lounging rooms, and connected therewith is an im- 
mense garden, partly covered and partly al fresco, for 
summer concerts. During the summer, concerts are 
given here every evening, and if the night of our visit 
is to be taken as a fair indication, the patronage is very 
large. The admission is from forty to sixty centimes 
(from eight to twelve cents), but a good revenue is 
had from the consumption of beer and light wines, 
which is here, as in other Swiss, French, and German 
cities, something enormous. 

From Zurich we proceeded to Schaffhausen, by the 
way of Winterthur, a distance of thirty-five miles, 
and arriving at that ancient town, proceeded a couple 
of miles farther by carriages to the little town of Neu 
hausen, in order to visit the Falls of the Ehine. A 
fine large hotel, the Schweizerhof, has been built upon 
the high bank of the Ehine, directly in front of the 
falls, the river here making a bend. The river is at 
this point contracted between high and rocky walls, 
and the water flows in a great volume on each side of 



320 A SUMMER JAUNT 






a little island, the descent being about sixty feet. 
The breadth of the river just above the falls is three 
hundred and eighty feet. There are fine view-points 
on both sides of the river, one of them being from 
Schloss Laufen, an ancient castle, situated on the left 
bank, and the island in the middle of the river may be 
reached in a boat at the risk of a wetting. Our time 
here was unfortunately brief, and four of us deter- 
mined upon making an evening trip to the island. 
Our little party comprised Miss Vianna Johnson, of 
Concord, N. H., Mr. George F. Lane, of Birming- 
ham, Pa., Mr. John A. Squire, of Arlington, Mass., 
and the writer. Solicitous friends and over-anxious 
outsiders tried to dissuade us from what they Were 
pleased to consider a dangerous excursion, and the 
boatmen were inclined to look upon our proposition 
with some degree of astonishment, but manifested a 
willingness to earn a few francs. Accordingly we were 
rowed out in a little skiff from the Schlosschen Worth. 
The moon shone not very brightly, and we were shut 
in by the dark, high banks. To paddle the boat over 
the tempestuous rapids below the falls, and up the 
current between the seething masses of falling water 
at either side of the little island, was no boy's play for 
the boatmen. Several waves dashed into the skiff, 
and once or twice the craft was caught by the surging 
waters and hurled down stream again, in spite of the 
stout oarsmen, who had then to go to work with 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 321 

redoubled strength to regain the advantage lost. At 
length the little craft touched landing at the foot of 
the island, and we leaped ashore amid showers of 
spray. By mounting a slippery staircase, several line 
views of the cataract were had, but they hardly repaid 
the trouble taken to obtain them, especially through a 
night observation. Our passage back to the shore 
was easy enough, although the boatmen stopped in the 
middle of the stream long enough to convince us of 
the importance of giving another franc to each of them 
as trinkgeldt. 

Our dinner at the Hotel Schweizerhof was served 
upon the broad piazza overlooking the falls and the 
far-away Alps, and the waiters were Swiss maidens 
dressed in their native costumes, the distinctive features 
of which were a black bodice with white sleeves, and 
ornamental chains of silver hanging beneath their 
arms and attached by silver rosettes to the breast, and 
shoulder. Each canton in Switzerland has its distinct- 
ive costume, but these chains, like the broad-rimmed 
hats, also worn by the women, seem to be popular in 
various parts of the country. 



322 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER VIII. 

GERMANY. 

Leaving Switzerland — Basel and its Clocks — Strassburg and its 
Famous Cathedral — Marks of the Siege of 1870 — The Storks 
and the Geese — The Astronomical Clock — Climbing the 
Cathedral Tower in a Thunder-storm — Baden-Baden and its 
Beautiful Surroundings — The Black Forest — Heidelberg — 
Its University and Ruined Castle— "The Great Tun — The 
Rich City of Frankfort — Wiesbaden and its Attractions — 
The Storied Rhine — Its Towns and Vineyards — Its Castles 
and their Romantic Legends — The Bromserburg — The Moose 
Tower — The Devil's Ladder — The Pfalzgrafenstein — The 
Lurleiberg — The " Cat" and the " Mouse " — " The Brothers " 
Roland and Ilildegunde — The Drachenfels — Cologne — Its 
Great Cathedral — The Church of the Eleven Thousand Virgins 
and its Relics — Other Objects of Interest in Cologne. 

The canton of Schaffhausen is one of the smallest 
subdivisions of Switzerland, and it projects so far 
above the general northern boundary line of the coun- 
try, that in going in any direction except the south- 
east, the traveller soon reaches the confines of the Grand 
Duchy of Baden. To the north are the mountains of 
the Schwarz Wald, or Black Forest, far less grand 
and imposing than the Alps, yet very picturesque and 
beautiful. The Feldberg, the highest mountain of 
the group, is only four thousand nine hundred and 
twenty-one feet high. It is situated in the southern 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 323 

part of the Black Forest country. A railway leads 
down the north bank of the Rhine from Constance 
and Schaffhausen to Basel, and thence northward to 
Carlsruhe, Heidelberg, Mannheim, &c. Another line 
runs northward to Stuttgart, and connecting therewith 
is a railway, constructed only a few years ago, run- 
ning through the heart of the Black Forest country 
via Villingen and Hausach, and joining the Baden 
line at Oflenburg, nearly eighty miles below Basel. 
Our route lay directly over the Baden line via Basel ; 
and it should be liere remarked, that the German 
section of our tour extended wholly along the general 
course of the Rhine, from the point where we first 
approached the stream near Schaffhausen, down as 
far as Cologne. In confining ourselves to this route 
we were, of course, deprived of visiting Stuttgart, 
Munich, Dresden, Berlin, and many other important 
places, but our journey was through one of the most 
beautiful regions of the earth ; a region enriched by 
nature and art, and abounding in scenes of historic 
and fabled interest. 

We left the Falls of the Rhine with regret, making 
an early morning departure from the palatial Hotel 
Schweizerhof. Cattle are frequently used as beasts of 
burden in both Switzerland and Germany, and one of 
these animals was harnessed to a cart and made to 
do service in transporting our luggage to the sta- 
tion. Later in our journey, while at Baden-Baden, 



324 A SUMMER JAUNT 

I observed a cow which was attached to a milk-cart. 
The patient animal was being driven upon her matuti- 
nal rounds from house to house. Economy would 
seem to suggest that the cart might have been dis- 
pensed with, and that the nourishing fluid might be 
had " on draft " from the natural fount, as the custom 
is at the Molkencur establishments. As a general 
thing the milk- wagons are drawn by donkeys, many 
of which are so diminutive as to suggest at once to the 
juvenile mind that the animals might be better em- 
ployed as playfellows. The drivers are almost invari- 
ably women. Women's rights prevail to such an 
extent all over Europe that the gentler sex is per- 
mitted to do a large part of the drudgery, including 
about nine-tenths of the work in the fields and much 
of the labor on the streets. Women are frequently 
seen carrying loads which seem enough to make the 
stoutest male athlete quiver. Iu some cities not only 
girls, but old women, may be seen earning a few cen- 
times or pfennigs by sweeping the streets. 

But of our journey. Erom Neuhausen our course 
was through a well-cultivated region, and several 
picturesque towns were scattered along the route, but 
for a time we were shut in. by little hills, and out of 
sight of the Ehine, so that the view was circum- 
scribed. Emerging again upon the bank of the river, 
the views broadened and included distant glimpses of 
the Alps, and later of the Vosges, while upon the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 325 

other hand we skirted for the whole day the outlying 
ranges of mountains of the Black Forest. Beyond 
the little station of Wilchingen we crossed from the 
confines of Switzerland into the great German enmire. 
Waldshut, the most important town between Schaff- 
hausen and Basel, contains only between one and two 
thousand inhabitants. At Laufenberg, a few miles 
below Waldshut, the Rhine dashes with much fury 
over its rocky and narrow bed. The rapids have been 
successfully passed in boats, but the undertaking is 
hazardous. In 1793, the eighth Lord Montagu, an 
English nobleman, and the last of his family, lost his 
life in attempting the feat. By a singular coincidence 
his ancestral mansion, Cowdray House, in Sussex, was 
burned down almost on the same day. Laufenberg 
is in Swiss territory, on the opposite side of the river, 
which here forms the boundary line between the two 
countries, and an ancient castle looks down upon the 
impetuous waters. The cultivation of the grape is 
carried on quite extensively all along the valley. 
Rheinfeklen, like Laufenburg on the left, or Swiss 
bank of the Rhine, was in ancient times strongly for- 
tified and frequently besieged. Here, too, the stream 
dashes over the rocks in rapids. At Kleine Basel, 
which is on the opposite of the Rhine from the Swiss 
city of Basel, all the luggage was taken from the train 
for inspection by the custom-house authorities. The 
examination in our case was a trivial affair, and caused 



326 A SUMMER JAUNT 

no delay whatever beyond the removal of the trunks 
to the customs office and from thence back to the lug- 
gage-van. 

Basel is one of the most ancient, and also one of the 
most populous of Swiss cities. The city derives its 
chief importance from its advantageous position at the 
junction of the frontiers of Germany, France, and 
Switzerland. There are here an imposing cathedral, 
built by the Emperor Henry II., in the early part of 
the eleventh century, and a museum which contains 
quite a collection of Holbein pictures, but, to the 
ordinary tourist, Basel derives its chief importance 
from being one of the main points at which the Swiss 
round is begun. The traveller goes from here, either 
up the river to Schaffhausen and Constance, or by 
direct routes to Zurich, Lucerne, or Neuchatel. 

The people of Basel, by the w T ay, kept up a curious 
custom until the end of the last century, of having 
their clocks an hour in advance of the rest of the 
world. Now they contrive to have as good times as 
their neighbors. It is somewhat remarkable that the 
origin of so singular a practice should not be more 
clearly traced. One theory mentioned by Thomas 
Ferguson, in "Swiss Men and Swiss Mountains," is 
that the people of Basel were an hour lazier than other 
people, and required this notable device to keep them 
up to the mark. Another is to the effect that the 
town clock having been struck by lightning, and the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 327 

hand forced an hour forward, the superstition of the 
people prevented them from interfering with what 
they considered to be an act of Heaven. A third is 
that an attempt of an enemy to surprise the town was 
given up because the erratic but exceedingly timely 
clock struck ail hour in advance, deceiving them into 
the belief that they were too late. A fourth theory is 
the most sensible of all. It is, that the choir of the 
Cathedral being built at a little deviation to the true east, 
a corresponding variation was caused on the sun-dial. 
Whatever the cause may have been, Basel for a long 
period strongly warred against all innovations, and 
all attempts to set the time once more in joint were 
defeated until comparatively a modern date. Once 
the reformers, having been unsuccessful in the open 
field, made an attempt to put the clock back by stealth. 
They shifted the hands half a minute each clay, and 
had already succeeded in putting it back three-quarters 
of an hour, when, by some means, the people found out 
that their time was being tampered with, and terrible 
was the commotion that ensued. In the Museum, 
contained in the Munster at Basel, is preserved the 
Lallenkonig, a large head which formerly occupied a 
place on the clock-tower of the bridge across the 
Ehine, and which was not taken down until 1839. 
This uncouth figure rolled its eyes and protuded its long 
tongue at each vibration of the pendulum. It is said 
to have been erected in derision of the inhabitants of 



328 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Kleine-Basel in consequence of some dispute, and it is 
recorded that the people thus derided returned the 
compliment by erecting a similar figure on their own 
side of the river. Thus Basel and Kleine-Basel could 
"make faces" at each other all day* long, and through 
the darkness of night as well, without being disturbed 
in their ordinary avocations. 

Below Basel, the Bhine valley broadens, and the 
scenery is not always so picturesque, although the 
Black Forest Mountains are to be seen most of the 
way in the east, while glimpses of the Vosges are 
sometimes had in the west. The Kaiserstuhl is a low 
mountain occupying something over forty square miles, 
which lies between the railway line and the Khine, 
above Fribourg, the principal place between Basel and 
Strassburg. Both the Kaiserstuhl and the slopes of 
the Black Forest Mountains are covered with vines. 
Fribourg, which is a city of about twenty-five thou- 
sand inhabitants, contains a handsome cathedral in the 
Gothic style, dating back to 1122, the tower of which, 
three hundred and ninety-seven feet in height, is of 
exquisite open-work design. Near Fribourg stands 
the watch-tower of the ruined castle of Zahringen, 
once the seat of a powerful race, which became ex- 
tinct in 1218, by the death of Count Berthold Y. 

At Appenweir, eighty miles below Basel, and about 
one hundred and forty miles from Neuhausen, we 
changed from the main railway line to a branch road 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 329 

jading through Kehl and across the Rhine to Strass- 
burg. At Kehl, the railroad crosses the river just 
below a bridge of boats. Making a sweep partly 
around the city, the railway joins the more important 
lines running south, west, and north, and the traveller 
is thus left just within the fortifications on the opposite 
side of the town. The railway approach from Kehl 
serves almost as well to give a panoramic view of 
Strassburg, as a ride around Paris, on the Chemin de 
Fer de Ceinture, does of that city. 

The fortifications of Strassburg are formidable in 
their way, although they did not save the city from 
being captured by the Germans in the recent war. 
The Prussian government has for several years been 
engaged in strengthening the works. The place has 
always been regarded as a point of great strategetic 
importance, and in a letter written by the Emperor 
Maximilian I., it is termed the bulwark of the Holy 
Roman Empire, and commended for its old German 
honesty and bravery. The siege of Strassburg by the 
Germans in the late war began August 11, 1870, and 
continued until September 27, when the town was 
forced to capitulate. Not only the citadel on the east 
side of the town, and the main fortifications on the 
opposite side, together with many buildings near 
those points, were destroyed, but much damage was 
done to public and private edifices in all parts of the 
city. The damage to the cathedral alone was esti- 



330 A SUMMER JAUNT 

mated at one million four hundred thousand francs. 
The work of restoration is going steadily forward, 
and the government has dealt liberally with the inhab- 
itants of Strassburg who suffered damage to their 
property during the siege. Many shops and houses 
have been rebuilt at government expense. The city, 
which numbers nearly one hundred thousand inhab- 
itants, is chiefly French in everything save its soldiery, 
and the Emperor William takes precautions to render 
this feature essentially Teutonic. The city is the 
headquarters of the fifteenth corps of the German 
army, and there are generally stationed here some 
fifteen thousand soldiers. 

The town was founded by the Romans, and named 
Argentoratum, and in the Middle Ages it became one 
of the most prosperous and powerful of the free cities 
of the German Empire. 

The visitor to Strassburg is struck by the ancient 
appearance of many of its houses, and by the pres- 
ence of a large colony of storks on the housetops. 
The citizens regard the storks with great love and 
respect, and it is considered a good omen for the citi- 
zen whose chimney-top or roof-tree is chosen by the 
birds for a resting-place. Strassburg's kind treatment 
of the storks is a sort of recompense, possibly, for its 
unhandsome dealings with the geese, which arc .inordi- 
nately fattened, solely in order to turn their gorged 
livers into jjdle defoit gras. 




A STORE'S NKST IN STRASSBURG 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 331 

The famous cathedral was, of course, the great 
centre of attraction for our party. This edifice rises 
very conspicuously in the centre of the city. It 
stands upon the site of a church founded by Clovis, 
about 510, and which was destroyed by lightning in 
1007. The foundation of the present cathedral was 
laid by Bishop Werner, of Hapsburg, in 1015, and 
the interior was completed in 1275. Under Bishop 
Conrad, of Lichtenberg, in 1277, the construction of 
the fagade was begun, by Erwin of Steinbach, and after 
the hitter's death, in 1318, the work was continued 
by his son John, who died in 1339. The spire of the 
north tower was completed by John Hiiltz in 1439, 
but the south tower remains unfinished to the present 
day. The construction of the edifice having been 
superintended by the ablest masters during four cen- 
turies, an opportunity is afforded to trace the rise and 
progress of Gothic architecture. The fagade is the 
richest part of the whole structure. Its magnificent 
rose window is forty-two feet in diameter, and its 
three portals, which are adorned with scenes from the 
history of the Creation and Eedemption, are regarded 
as being among the finest Gothic works in existence. 
In niches are equestrian statues of Clovis, Dagobert, 
and Rudolph of Hapsburg (all dating from 1291), 
and of Louis XIV. (erected in 1823). In 1793, sev- 
eral hundred statuettes were ruthlessly torn down 
and destroyed by the French revolutionists, and the 



332 A SUMMER JAUNT 

beautiful spire only escaped the same fate from having 
been provided with a red republican cap, made of 
metal, as a protecting badge. The south portal of 
the church is adorned with sculptures by Sabina, the 
talented daughter of Erwin. The spire rises to the 
immense height of four hundred and^sixty-five feet, — 
to the same elevation as the loftiest of the Pyramids 
of Egypt, but twenty-seven feet less than the new 
spire of the cathedral at Rouen. The church has 
been damaged many times by lightning, once by an 
earthquake, and in the memorable siege became a 
target for the Prussian guns, for the reason that the 
French maintained a post of observation on the ele- 
vated platform between the towers. Not only was 
the spire hit several times, but the organ was pierced 
by a shell, and the stained-glass windows were almost 
wholly ruined. On the night of the 25th of August, 
1870, the roof caught fire, and a great portion of it 
tumbled in. For several years past workmen have 
been repairing the damage, and at the time of our 
visit the new dome seemed to be approaching com- 
pletion. On the 4th of September, two shells hit the 
crown of the spire, and on the 15th a shot entered 
the point below the cross, which was bent on one side, 
and caused to dangle from the iron bars of the Kght- 
ning-conductor. 

The interior of the church is three hundred and 
sixty-two feet in length, one hundred and thirty-five 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 333 

feet in width, and ninety-nine feet in height. It 
contains, in addition to some interesting statues and 
monuments, the celebrated astronomical clock. The 
present clock was constructed by Schwilgue, a dis- 
tinguished Strassburg mechanic, between 1838 and 
1842, to replace a similar clock made by Conrad 
Dasypodius. There have been, altogether, three 
mechanical clocks in the cathedral. The first was 
begun as early as 1352. This occupied a position in 
the transept directly opposite the spot where Dasy- 
podious built his clock (finished in 1574), and where 
the present clock stands. The old clocks were mar- 
vels in their day, and the present one is far more 
elaborate than either. In addition to the mechanical 
figures which move about when the hours are struck, 
there are complicated devices to indicate various 
astronomical changes. For example, the old calendar 
was altered by M. Schwilgue into a perpetual one, 
with the addition of the feasts that vary, according to 
their connection with Easter or Advent Sunday ; an 
orrery, after the Copernican system, is made to 
present the mean tropical revolutions of each of the 
planets visible to the naked eye ; the phases of the 
moon and the eclipses of the sun and moon calculated 
for all time ; true time, and sidereal time is indicated ; 
and a celestial globe exhibits the precession of the 
equinoxes, together with solar and lunar equations for 
the reduction of the mean geocentric ascension and 



334 A SUMMER JAUNT 

declension of the sun and moon. A dial placed with- 
out the church, and showing the hours and days, is 
put in motion by the same mechanism. The movable 
statues attract the chief attention. On the first <xal- 
lery, an angel strikes the quarters on a bell, while one 
of the genii reverses an hour-glass at the end of the 
hour. Death strikes the hours, and grouped around 
him to mark the quarters, are Childhood, Youth, Man- 
hood, and Old Age. Under the first gallery ; the sym- 
bolic deity of each day steps out from a niche, — 
Apollo on Sunday, Diana on Monday, and so on. 
At noon, the twelve Apostles pass before the Saviour, 
to whom each one bows in turn, while the Saviour 
raises his hands to bless each one of them. During 
the movement of the figures, a cock crows thrice, and 
Satan peers forth as Peter goes by. 

After a hurried inspection of the collection of 
statuettes, quaint ornaments, models, &c, and the 
works of the old clock, preserved in the Chapel of 
the GEuvre-Notre-Dame, opposite the Cathedral, we 
visited the Church of St. Thomas. This church con- 
tains a magnificent marble monument, by Pigalle, 
erected by Louis XY. to Marshal Saxe, who died in 
1750. The design is in very questionable taste. The 
marshal is in the act of descending into the tomb, 
opened for his reception by Death, while a female 
figure, representing France, strives to detain him. 
Hercules, in mourning attitude, leans upon his club. 






THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 335 

On the left are an eagle, a lion, and a leopard, with 
the broken flags of Austria, Holland, and England 
beneath, to commemorate the marshal's victories over 
those three nations in the Flemish wars. This work 
occupied Pigalle's time for twenty years. In a side 
chapel are two mummies supposed to be the bodies of 
a Count of Nassau-Saarbriicken and his daughter, who 
died in the sixteenth century. There are two fine 
statues in Strassburg, one in honor of Gutenberg, 
who made his first experiments in printing here about 
the year 1436, and the other to Kleber, the French 
general. The house occupied by Goethe, who grad- 
uated at the University of Strassburg as a doctor of 
laws in 1771, is indicated by a marble slab. The 
Brand-Strasse, or Rue Brulee, is a street marking the 
spot where two thousand Jews were burned in 1349, 
because they refused to be baptized. 

On returning from the Church of St. Thomas, I 
revisited the cathedral for the purpose of climbing the 
spire. This is a task of no mean order, inasmuch as 
the stairs above the platform (which of itself has an 
elevation of two hundred and sixteen feet above the 
street) are narrow and steep, and, towards the top, 
upon the outside of the spire. At one place the balus- 
trade was carried away by a Prussian shot at the time of 
the siege. A severe thunder-storm rendered the ascent 
additionally difficult, for the reason that the spire, which 
is open upon the sides, admitted the rain. It was found to 



336 A SUMMER JAUNT 

be prudent to await the end of the storm at the keeper's 
house on the platform. The view from this elevation, 
as well as from above, was magnificent. From the 
higher point it was interesting to watch the progress 
of the storm. The country west and south of Strass- 
burg was covered by an inky pall ; but the Rhine 
valley, and the green masses of the Black Forest, 
were bathed in sunlight. While listening to the mut- 
tering thunder, and watching the vivid lightnings as 
they played about in the storm, which for a few 
minutes was very fierce, it was not difficult to imagine 
that the memorable siege of the city was still in prog- 
ress ; and, to add realism to the scene, a house in the 
suburbs was set ablaze by a stroke of li^htnin2T. 
When this tumult of the elements was going on, it 
was not a very consoling reflection that the church 
had many times been struck by lightning. It was a 
glorious scene in every aspect, however, and amply 
repaid all the toil involved in the ascent. 

At Steinbach, a few miles from Strassburg, on the 
summit of a barren hill, stands a monument to Erwin, 
the architect of Strassburg Cathedral. The place 
commands a view of Strassburg, and a statue of the 
celebrated architect stands facing the noble structure 
his genius aided in creating. 

From Strassburg we proceeded direct to Baden- 
Baden, which was reached just before sunset. During 
our visit to this delightful spot we were quartered at the 






THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 337 

excellent Hotel Hollande. Baden-Baden, one of the 
oldest and most fashionable of German watering-places, 
is most charmingly situated on the borders of the Black 
Forest, which extends across the Grand Duchy of 
Baden and into the kingdom of Wurtemberg. It is 
a town of some ten thousand permanent inhabitants, 
and the visitors to its springs number fifty thousand a 
year. The little river Oos or Oel-Bach runs through 
the town on its way to join the Murg near Eastatt, 
and on every side arc picturesque hills between one 
thousand and two thousand feet high. The hot 
springs of Baderi-Baden form its chief attraction,- but 
the rare beauty of its surroundings is, after all, its 
principal charm. The waters were known to the 
Romans, who built baths here, and in constructing 
the old bath-house the Roman masonry surrounding 
one of the springs was found. Until the end of 1872, 
Baden-Baden shared with Wiesbaden and Homburg 
the questionable distinction of being one of the chief 
gaming places of Europe, but roulette and rouge et 
noir have now been banished to the little principality of 
Monaco, and the air is greatly purified. The gaming 
tables formerly occupied the splendid saloons of the 
Conversationshaus, which are now but little used except 
for balls and concerts, and as reading: and lounsrinsr 
rooms. For six hundred years the town was the seat 
of the Margraves of Baden, a long line of whom are 
buried in the Pfarrkirche. Herman III., who died in 



338 A SUMMER JAUNT 

1190, while engaged in the Crusades, was the first to 
reside in the old castle. The new castle was erected 
by the Margrave Christopher in 1479, but both town 
and castle suffered so much during the Thirty Years' 
War and the War of the Palatinate (1689) that the 
Margraves soon after the latter date transferred their 
residence to Eastatt. 

The Conversationshaus, the Trinkhalle, and the new 
Baths are the chief buildings in the town, although 
the theatre and several of the hotels are also quite im- 
posing in external appearance. Altogether there are 
upwards of forty hotels, little and great. A bronze 
statue of the Grand Duke Leopold, who died in 1852, 
is in the Leopoldsplatz. The Conversationshaus 
comprises an extensive suite of gorgeously decorated 
apartments, and in front is a park, where concerts are 
given three times daily, the band, or orchestra, occupy- 
ing a gayly decorated kiosk. The chief assembly room, 
where the balls are given, is a magnificent apartment 
one hundred and fifty feet long and fifty feet high, 
lighted by five huge chandeliers. The Trinkhalle is a 
commodious building, and the inner walls of the portico 
are adorned with fifteen frescos, illustrating some of the 
legends of the neighboring Black Forest. Fourteen 
of these are by Gotzenberger. The springs are thir- 
teen in number, and rise on the opposite side of the 
town, the water being conveyed to the Trinkhalle by 
pipes. These springs supply one hundred and sev- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 339 

enty-one thousand one hundred and sixty-eight gallons 
of water daily, and are of different temperatures, rang- 
ing from 118° to 154° Fahrenheit. They belong to 
the class of alkaline salt springs, and are efficacious 
both for drinking and bathing purposes. Near the 
Trinkhalle is a little chalet where hundreds repair at 
the morning drinking hour to solace themselves with 
fresh milk from goats and cows, the fluid being drawn 
from the lacteal founts after it is ordered. Some of 
the patrons of the chalet take a mixture of milk and 
spring water, and not a few add a piece of bread, 
which serves as an early " plain " breakfast. 

On the slope of the Michaelsberg, back of the 
Trinkhalle, is a handsome Greek chapel, erected in 
1866 as a tomb for the Roumanian Prince, Michael 
Stourdza, who died three years previous in Baclen. 
Near the chapel Prince Albert zu Solms-Braunfels has 
recently completed a very handsome and expensive 
chateau. 

A five hours' drive, which included visits to the exten- 
sive ruins of the Alte Schloss and to the restored castle 
of Eberstein, was a very delightful experience. Car- 
riage drives at Baden are not costly, though the prices 
are possibly a trifle higher than in other South German 
towns and in Switzerland. The roads are well built and 
cleanly kept, and as our course was largely within the 
richly shaded confines of the Black Forest, and later 
along the beautiful Lichtenthaler Allee, the excursion 



340 A SUMMER JAUNT 

was a succession of pleasurable sights and sensations. 
The Alte Schloss, or old castle of Hohenbaden, is sit- 
uated nearly upon the summit of the Batter, which rises 
north-cast of Baden to the height of something over six- 
teen hundred feet, and dates back to the tenth and 
eleventh centuries. It was here that the line of the 
Margraves established their seat until the building in 
1479 of the Neue Schloss, which is at present the sum- 
mer residence of the Grand Duke of Baden. The walls 
arc chiefly in ruins and overrun with ivy. Where 
knights and proud Margraves trod the courtyard pave- 
ment, an enterprising restaurant keeper has set up a 
little establishment, and upon the outer wall appears, 
not an ancient banner, but the familiar English legend, 
"Bass's Pale Ale." More romantic is the work of a 
Carlsruhe tradesman, who has placed in a high win- 
dow in each face of the old castle walls a large JEolian 
harp. One of the instruments sang with mysterious 
sweetness in the south wind, like the contented spirit 
of some ancient dweller of the castle ; perhaps the 
good Margravine, whose saintly devotion is said to 
have delivered the country from the scourge of the 
"Black Death," some five hundred years ago. The 
view from the summit of the old Roman tower, which 
embraces the wide valley of the Rhine for a long 
extent, the city of Rastatt and the neighboring hills 
and forests, together with Baden itself, is very fine. 
Near the castle are some curiously cleft masses of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 341 

porphyry resembling at a little distance castles and 
towers. Resuming seats in our carriages, we rode 
around the Batter, through the village of Eberstein- 
burg, near which are the ruins of another ancient 
castle ; by the Engelskanzel and Teufelskanzel, where 
an angel and the imp of darkness are supposed to have 
held a theological discussion ; along the shaded slopes 
of the Merkur, or greater Staufenberg ; and thence to 
the castle of Eberstein, which is situated above the 
Murg, near Gernsbach. This ancient stronghold was 
built about the middle of the thirteenth century, and 
having fallen into decay, was restored finally by the 
late Grand Duke Leopold. It is at present one of 
the summer residences of the Grand Ducal family and 
contains some fine specimens of ancient armor and some 
very curious specimens of ancient glassware. From 
the castle of Eberstein we drove over a winding road 
down through Mullenbach and into the valley of the 
Oos, which flows through Lichtenthal and Baden. 
The Lichtenthaler Allee is a magnificent avenue, lined 
with large trees, uniting Lichtenthal to Baden, and 
along which is the fashionable drive. The little river 
Oos flows at one side, and across it are rustic bridges 
leading to numerous villas. The opposite side of the 
allee is also lined with gardens and handsome chateaus. 
The house of Prince Menchikoff is hidden by the 
foliage, and the residence of Prince Stourdza is across 
the Oos, near Baden. While driving toward Baden 



342 A SUMMER JAUNT 

we met the Empress Augusta of Germany, who was 
out for an afternoon airing in her carriage, and who 
had been in Baden for nearly a month enjoying the 
baths. During her stay in Baden-Baden she resided 
in unostentatious style at the Maison Mesmer, near 
the Conversationshaus, and was frequently seen out 
walking or riding. The Stiftskirche contains a 
stained-glass window presented by the empress to 
commemorate the preservation of the Emperor Wil- 
liam from assassination in 1861. 

From Baden-Baden we proceeded to Heidelberg, 
the route taking us through Rastatt, Carlsruhe, and 
Bruchsal. The distance is about sixty miles, and we" 
were pleasantly quartered in the Hotel de l'Europe in 
time for an early dinner, after which we rode out 
through the city and up to the ruins of the old castle. 
The University of Heidelberg, one of the. most influ- 
ential of the German seats of learning, occupies a 
number of old buildings, which do not make such an 
imposing appearance as the fame of the ancient school 
would seem to warrant. The University was founded 
in 1336 by Elector Rupert I., and became indebted 
for its modern development to Charles Frederick of 
Baden, who, in 1802, provided it with eminent pro- 
fessors and scientific collections. There are at pres- 
ent seven or eight hundred students, and the visitor to 
Heidelberg is reminded by the slashed cheeks of the 
young men that duelling is still in vogue. The duel- 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 343 

ling ground is at a little inn on the opposite side of 
the Neckar. The damage inflicted is generally con- 
fined to cuts upon the face. The authorities seem to 
make no effort to stop the practice ; on the contrary, 
it is encouraged in some quarters as a means of mak- 
ing the students hardy and courageous, and of fitting 
them for the stern duties of military life. 

Heidelberg's chief church edifice, the Heileg-Geist- 
kirche (the Church of the Holy Ghost), was divided 
between the Catholics and Protestants instead of being 
given solely to either, and the nave is now employed 
for Protestant and the choir for Catholic worship. 
The church is in the market-place, and all around the 
edifice, with barely space for the door- ways, is a row 
of mean-looking shops. There are two other fine 
churches, one belonging to the Jesuits and the other 
Peter's Church.- 

Before visiting the castle we rode out to the Wolfs- 
brunnen, a spring where the oldest fish-breeding es- 
tablishment in Europe is situated. Tradition tells of 
an enchantress who was killed here by a wolf. From 
the spring we rode along the slopes to the castle, all 
the time enjoying charming views of the town and 
the Neckar ; and having first gazed upon the ruins 
from the Molkencur, two or three hundred feet above 
them, we dismissed the carriages and devoted the 
remainder of the afternoon to a closer inspection of 
the grand old pile. 



344 A SUMMER JAUNT 

The ruins, which are of vast extent, stand upon a 
terrace at the north-east extremity of the town, three 
hundred and thirty feet above the Neckar, which flows 
along the north-west side of Heidelberg. The oldest 
portion of the castle was erected by Lewis the Severe, 
son-in-law of Rudolph of Hapsburg, about the close 
of the thirteenth century. Subsequently it was en- 
larged by other of the electors who successively 
occupied it, until it had reached, in the seventeenth 
century, really grand proportions. It suffered much 
during the Thirty Years' War, and still more during 
the devastations of the Palatinate. In the Orleans War, 
the French general Melac, contrary to the stipulation, 
caused the castle to be blown up. This was In 1689. 
In 1693, the French once more gained possession of 
Heidelberg, and besides wreaking their vengeance still 
further upon the beautiful structure , massacred the 
inhabitants of the town. In 1764, the lightning 
nearly completed the work of destruction. The pon- 
derous gateway, some of the towers, and portions of 
the interior buildings, are still standing, however, to 
tell of former greatness. The visitor can ascend to 
the top of the Gesprengte Thurm (Blown-up Tower), 
and see in the moat below him the prostrate half of 
the tower, just where it was left by the explosion in 
1689. So solid was the masonry, that the dislodged 
portion fell in an unbroken mass, where it remains to 
the present day. The walls at this point are no less 




HEIDELBERG AND THE OLD CASTLE. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 345 

than twenty-one feet thick. The visitor is taken on 
an extended tour through the castle, and between one 
and two hours are occupied, even if the inspection is 
only of a casual nature. He is conducted through 
underground passages, along galleries and buttresses, 
and through lofty halls. Several of the towers may 
be ascended. Ivy creeps over the ruins in many 
places, and there are several gigantic vines which 
have thrived for centuries. In one of the cellars is 
the famous Heidelberg Tun, which holds no less than 
three hundred thousand bottles of wine. It was con- 
structed in 1751, and has been thrice filled. The 
huge cask lies upon its side, and flights of stairs lead 
to the top, where at least fifty persons might be as- 
sembled. In a neighboring cellar is a smaller cask, 
bearing humorous inscriptions. There are extensive 
gardens near the castle, and from a terrace which 
extends towards the river a magnificent view of the 
castle, and of the town and country beyond is ob- 
tained. One of the striking features of the ^iofantic 
ruin is the great diversity of architecture. Dating 
from the thirteenth century, the original structures 
were enlarged and built upon by successive potentates. 
The electors of the sixteenth and seventeenth cen- 
turies, in particular, made sumptuous additions to the 
alreadj 7 beautiful castle. 

From Heidelberg, by the way of Frankfort-on-tke- 
Main, to Wiesbaden, where we were to pass a Sunday, 



346 A SUMMER JAUNT 

is a journey of between three and four hours, but we 
took nearly a clay for it, by stopping over for several 
hours at Frankfort. On the way thither we passed 
through Weinheim, Bensheim, and several other small 
and picturesque towns, and also through the city of 
Darmstadt. On our arrival at Frankfort, we engaged 
nacres, for a drive through the city and to some of its 
principal objects of interest. The city dates from the 
time of Charlemagne, and was long the place where 
the German emperors were chosen. From 1814 to 
1866 it was one of the four free cities of Germany, 
and in the latter year it was taken by the Prussians. 
It has nearly one hundred thousand inhabitants, in- 
cluding a garrison of .three thousand soldiers, twenty 
thousand Roman Catholics, and eight thousand Jews. 
The old part of the town consists of narrow and unin- 
viting streets, but the city long ago outgrew its an- 
cient limits, and the newer portions are handsome and 
imposing, the broad avenues being lined with stately 
edifices and many evidences of wealth and refined 
taste. The Anlagen, or public grounds, which nearly 
surround the city, are handsomely laid out, and serve 
delightfully both for driving and promenading. 

One of the first objects we saw after leaving the 
station was the new theatre and opera-house, intended 
to take the place of a theatre which was burned. It 
is to be a large and handsome edifice. We rode first 
to Bethmann's Museum, in a distant part of the town, 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 347 

to see Dannecker's exquisite group, Ariadne on the 
Panther, which is familiar the world over through 
innumerable copies in parian, engraving, and photo- 
graph. It is a beautiful work, and Frankfort may 
well consider it one of its chiefest treasures. Several 
casts of celebrated pieces of statuary are also exhib- 
ited here. Near this spot, and just outside the Fried- 
berger Thor, is a curious monument erected by Fred- 
erick William II. of Prussia to the Hessians who fell 
on the spot in a successful attack on the French, who 
then occupied Frankfort, December 2, 1792. It con- 
sists of a mass of rock, bearing a pillar surmounted 
by a helmet, sworcl, and ram's head. Taking a cir- 
cuitous ride nearly around the city, we passed many 
charming residences and public buildings, and then 
rode into the city. We passed through the Juden- 
gasse, or Jews' street, and were shown the house 
where Meyer Amschel Rothschild, the founder of the 
great firm of bankers, was born in 1743, and where 
his mother preferred to live until the day of her death. 
In order to make the site more pleasant for his mother 
in her declining years, the son purchased some build- 
ings on the opposite side of the street and razed them 
to the ground. All the houses in the Judengassc are 
very ancient, and the street is quite narrow, although 
less so than some of the other old thoroughfares, 
where the tall, projecting houses nearly shut out the 
light of heaven altogether. It was the ancient custom 



348 A STJMMEK JAI/NT 

to lock the Jews within their own quarter at night. 
At the cathedral, — an edifice which dates from the 
early half of the thirteenth century, — we alighted 
again to examine the interior, where there are several 
interesting monuments. It was here the coronation 
of the German emperors took place, and in the 
Eomer, an ancient building near by, we were shown 
the Wahlzimmer (election room), and Kaisersaal 
(Imperial hall), where the new emperor was chosen, 
and then dined with the electors. A collection of 
portraits of the emperors adorns the wall of the 
Kaisersaal. The cathedral was nearly destroyed by 
fire in 18G7, and has recently been restored. A house 
opposite the church is embellished with a stone effigy 
of Martin Luther, and it is recorded that the great 
Reformer addressed the people therefrom while he 
was on his journey to Worms. Continuing our ride 
through the city, we saw the Schiller, Gutenberg, and 
Goethe monuments, all of them elaborate and hand- 
some memorials ; Goethe's house in the Hirschgraben j 
the Bourse and other public buildings ; the old bridge 
across the Main ; and the fine new Kaiser-strasse, with 
its elegant hotels, cafes, and shops. 

Frankfort is said to be the richest city of its size in 
the whole world. There are one hundred Frankfurt- 
ers worth from $4,000,000 to $5,000,000 each, and 
two hundred and fifty who are worth $1,000,000 and 
upward. The city is one of the great banking centres 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 349 

of the world. Its aggregate banking capital is esti- 
mated at $200,000,000, more than one-fourth of which 
the Eothschilds control. If its wealth were equally 
divided among its one hundred thousand inhabitants, 
every man, woman, and child would have, it is said, 
20,000 marks, or $5,000 each ; and there are not a few 
who would be glad to get their proportionate part to 
lift them out of penury. 

The Taunus Railway, which leads from Frankfort to 
Mayence and Wiesbaden, is one of the oldest in Ger- 
many, having been put in operation in 1839. From 
Frankfort to Wiesbaden is a ride of one and a quarter 
hours, and the distance to Mayence, which is on the 
opposite side of the Rhine from Kastel, is a trifle less. 
The view of Mayence, obtained on the ride to Wies- 
baden, is very fine. Kastel is a fortified place, and 
the railway intersects the line of fortifications on both 
sides of the town. It is near here that the famous 
Hochheimer wine is produced. At Weisbaden we 
were pleasantly located at the Hotel du Rhin. This 
city is considerably, larger than Baden-Baden, and very 
much larger than either Ems or Homburg, which, like 
it, arc famous spas. It has a permanent population of 
upwards of thirty-five thousand persons, and, in 1872', 
it entertained overisixty thousand patients, travellers, 
and gamesters, for the gaming-tables were then in 
operation. The hot springs are here, as at the other 
places named, the chief attraction for the invalids, 



350 A SUMMER JAUNT 

and the drinking of the waters seems to be practised 
much more zealously than at Baden-Baden. The 
Kochbrunnen, or boiling spring, has a temperature of 
156° Fahrenheit. The Cursaal is a large building, 
containing elegant saloons, which were formerly the 
lair of the "tiger." Now they are used for balls, con- 
certs, reading-rooms, &c. The larger hall is a gor- 
geous apartment, one hundred and thirty-two feet long, 
sixty feet wide, and forty-eight feet high. 

Wiesbaden was known to the Romans, and there 
have been found near the town, remains of a Roman 
camp. The Cursaal is surrounded by an extensive 
park, and in front are fountains which are illuminated 
at night. Two long colonnades, filled with shops, 
flank the approach to the Cursaal from the Wilhelms- 
strasse. 

The Protestant Church, which is a fine Gothic 
structure, with five lofty spires, is one of the most im- 
posing edifices in the town. The Royal Palace is an 
unpretentious, though extensive edifice, which is situ- 
ated in the market-place. There are many pleasant 
drives in the neighborhood of Wiesbaden, and one of 
them leads to the summit of the Neroberg, a little 
mountain which rises about a mile south of the Cur- 
saal. A small temple has been erected at the summit, 
from which a magnificent view of the city, together 
with Biebrich, Mayence, the river Rhine, and the 
wine-growing district of the Rheingau, is had. About 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 35 1, 

half- way up the Neroberg is a beautiful Greek chapel, 
erected at great cost by the Duke of Nassau as a mauso- 
leum for his first wife, the Duchess Elizabeth Michail- 
owna, a Eussian princess, who died in 1845. The 
edifice is in the form of a Greek cross, and is sur- 
mounted by one large and four smaller gilded domes. 
The highest is surmounted by a Eussian double cross, 
one hundred and ninety feet from the ground, 
secured by gilded chains. The interior is entirely of 
marble. A rich altar-screen, painted in Eussia, sepa- 
rates the body of the church from the choir. A 
recess on the north side contains the monument of 
the Duchess. A recumbent figure of white marble, 
resting on a sarcophagus, at the sides of which are 
statuettes of the twelve Apostles, and at the corners 
Faith, Hope, Charity, and Immortality, was executed 
by Prof. Hopfgarten, of Berlin. A Eussian burial- 
ground occupies a plateau near the chapel. The 
Platte, a shooting-lodge of the Duke of Nassau, is a 
point some nine hundred feet higher than the Nero- 
berg, and the view therefrom is, of course, more ex- 
tended than from the latter. 

A handsome avenue, about three miles in length, 
lined with rows of horse-chestnut trees, leads from 
Wiesbaden to Biebrich, which was formerly the seat of 
the Duke of Nassau. The palace is pleasantly situated 
upon the bank of the Ehine. The statues on the top 
of the building long since went -to decay, and now 



352 A SUMMEE JAUNT 

many of them are headless or armless. A handsome 
monument to the soldier-sons of Biebrich, who fell in 
the late war between Germany and France, stands near 
the steamboat-landing. 

At Biebrich we took passage on board the steamer 
" Deutscher-Kaiser," of the Cologne and Dusseldorf 
line, for a descent of the river Rhine, as far as Co- 
logne, a distance of nearly one hundred and twenty 
miles. This part of the journey constituted one of the 
richest experiences of our delightful round of travel 
through Europe. We floated down the noble stream, 
which, for centuries, has been the pathway of great 
nations, and the line of their deadliest conflicts, amid 
scenes of singular natural beauty, made stranger still 
by the presence of grim relics of the long past, and 
around every one of which are gathered the history 
and romance of centuries. Shorn of its castles and 
monasteries, and of its legendary lore and historic 
associations, the Rhine would scarcely compare, in 
simple picturcsqucness, with' our own beautiful Hud- 
son ; but with its stately ruins, and the weird tradi- 
tions which have been handed down from ancient and 
mediaeval times, it must ever occupy a foremost place 
in history and song. The most romantic scenery 
upon the Rhine, or, at least, along its navigable 
waters, — for the river rises among the high Alps, 
and runs several hundred miles amid the richest and 
wildest mountain-scenery of Switzerland before it be- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 353 

comes of commercial importance, — lies between May- 
ence and Cologne ; in fact, between Biebrich and 
Bonn : but there is much beauty in perspective and 
retrospective both above and below its hilly banks. 

" The river nobly foams and iiows, 

The charm of this enchanted ground, 
And all its thousand turns disclose 
Some fresher beauty varying round." 

The entire length of the Rhine, from its source in 
the mountains to the North Sea, is eight hundred and 
seventy miles, and, for a distance of about five hun- 
dred and seventy miles, from Basel to its mouth, it is 
navigable. The Toma-See, on the side of Mont St. 
Gothard, the source of the Vorder-Rhein, is seven 
thousand six hundred and eighty-nine feet above the 
level of the North Sea, and the Rheinwald Glacier, 
the source of the Hinter-Rhein, has an elevation of 
seven thousand two hundred and sixty-eight feet. 
Even in its navigable part the descent is considerable, 
and the stream is rapid until Holland is reached, 
where, ignominiously, the mighty river loses itself in 
a great delta. On its way to the ocean, the Rhine 
drinks up the waters of three hundred and seventy 
glaciers, and some three thousand streams, great and 
small. 

The time occupied in descending the Rhine, from 
Mayence or Biebrich (the two places are only a few 
miles apart), to Cologne, is, for the express boats, 



354 A SUMMER JAUNT 

seven and a quarter hours. The upward passage 
occupies four or five hours longer, on account of the 
strong current. The passenger steamers, or the best 
of them, are commodious and comfortable, and, in the 
term of summer travel, are always crowded by 
tourists. 

Soon after leaving Biebrich, on the trip down the 
river, the traveller comes to the rich and beautiful 
district of the Rheingau, on whose sunny slopes are 
some of the most valued vineyards in the world. 
Beyond the vine-patched slopes, are the more sombre 
masses of the Niederwald, a forest-clad height, where, 
at no distant day, a national monument is to be placed 
to hold its "Watch upon the Rhine." Several ancient 
towns are scattered along the river banks, and upon 
the vine-covered heights above are picturesque hamlets, 
chateaus, and castles. The Rheingau wns once sur- 
rounded by an impenetrable barrier, formed by a dense 
belt of trees fifty yards in width, so interwoven as to 
form a gigantic hedge. At the little town of Eltville, 
at the upper border of the Rheingau, the German 
King, Gunther of Schwarzburg, held his court until 
compelled to resign his dignity by his opponent Charles 
IV. This was in 1349. In the fourteenth and fif- 
teenth centuries, too, the Archbishops of Mayence 
had a residence here, to which they often resorted to 
escape from civic broils, and here the Archiepiscopa 
mint was established. One of the first printing- 



' THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 355 

presses was set up at Eltville in 1465, fifty years 
after the invention of the art, and before the death of 
Gutenberg. Several of these little towns are known 
to have existed as early as the eighth and ninth 
centuries. The castle of Johannisberg is picturesquely 
situated nearly three hundred and fifty feet above the 
Ehine, amid the extensive vineyards of the estate. 
The Johannisberg vineyards cover an area of sixty- 
five acres. The castle is not very old, having been 
built by the Abbot of Fulda in 1716. It occupies the 
site of an old Benedictine convent which dated back 
to 1106. On the suppression of the Abbey of Fulda, 
in 1802, the castle became the property of the Prince 
of Orange. In 1807 it was presented by Napoleon 
to Marshal Kellermann, and in 1816 it was conferred 
by the Emperor of Austria on the late Prince Metter- 
nich. It is here that all the genuine Johannisberger 
wine is made. Eudesheim, another famous wine-raising 
section of the Eheingau, is not far below the Johan- 
nisberg estates. It is a town of several thousand 
inhabitants, and is picturesquely set off against the 
vine-clad slopes of the near hills. At the lower 
extremfty of the town is the Bromserburg, or Nieder- 
burg, a massive rectangular tower, from which Gisela, 
the only daughter of a knight of the house of Bromser, 
flung herself into a watery grave, because her father, 
one of the Crusaders, in token of his victory over a 
dragon, and his deliverance from the hands of t;he 



356 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Saracens, had vowed he would dedicate her to the 
Church. There was, of course, a lover in the case. 
According to popular tradition, her pale form continues 
to haunt the spot ; but if all the drowned maidens who 
are said to still haunt the -waters of the Rhine were 
really to put in an appearance, the navigation of the 
stream would be seriously impeded. 

A short distance below Rudesheim, on the opposite 
bank of the Rhine, at the mouth of the River Nahe, 
lies Bingen, — "Fair Bingen on the Rhine," — a 
quaint old town of between six and seven thousand 
inhabitants, which was known to the Romans. A 
castle stands on a hill behind the town, and the neigh- 
boring heights are clothed with vines. Just below 
the town, on an island in the river, is the famous 
Mausethurm, or Mouse Tower, which derives its name 
from the familiar legend of Archbishop Hatto of May- 
ence, who caused a number of poor people — whom 
he compared to mice, bent on devouring the corn he 
hoarded — to be burned in a barn. After this cruel 
deed, says the legend, he was attacked by an army of 
mice. He took refuse in the tower, but thither the 
little animals swam and devoured His Eminence. 
This is the tale ; but its authenticity is made somewhat 
questionable by the fact that the Mouse Tower was 
not built until a couple of centuries after the bishop 
died. Its real name was probably Mauth-Thurm, 
or Tower of Customs, and its real purpose was prob- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 357 

ably to assist in collecting tolls during the Middle 
Ages. 

Below this point, the gray relics of feudal times 
increase in number. Nearly every rocky crag bears 
the crumbling walls of some old castle, and every 
point is rich in history and legend. Here and there, 
these lordly habitations have been restored, and now 
house in summer, nobility, or perhaps royalty. The 
picturesque castle of Rheinstein, built so many years 
ago that its early history is wholly lost, was restored 
some fifty years ago by Prince Frederick of Prussia, 
who also caused the restoration of the neighboring; 
Clemen skirche. The castle of Reichenstein, or Fal- 
kenburg, was, in the thirteenth century, the abode of 
a band of marauders, under Philip von Hohenfels. It 
was twice dismantled, the second time by the Em- 
peror Rudolph of Hapsburg, who caused the robbers 
to be hung. In 1689, the castle was destroyed by 
the French, and now is in ruins. The slender tower 
of Sooneck belongs to a castle which dates its exist- 
ence back to 1015. This, too, was dismantled be- 
cause it harbored marauders, but it has now been 
restored. It belongs to the Prussian royal family. 
The castle of Heinsburg has also been restored. The 
ruined castle of Nollingen or Nollich, just below 
Lorch, on the right bank, stands upon a cliff five hun- 
dred and eighty-one feet above the river, and near it 
is the "Devil's Ladder," where, as tradition tells us, 



358 A SUMMER JAUNT 

a knight of Lorch, aided by mountain sprites, scaled 
the heights on horseback, and thus gained the hand of 
his lady-love. The castles of Furstenberg and Stah- 
leck are in ruins. The former belongs to a sister of 
the Emperor of Germany, and the latter was formerly 
owned by the Dowager Queen of Prussia, a descendant 
of the Counts Palatine who formerly lived there. The 
castle of Stahleck rises above the ancient town of 
Bacharach, once a famous wine-mart. 

In the middle of the Rhine, just above the town of 
Caub, rises the Pfalzgrafenstein, a castle which re- 
sembles to some extent the castle of Chillon. History 
says it was erected in the thirteenth century, as a toll- 
house, but a legend ascribes a different origin to the 
edifice. According to fiction, it was built as a prison 
for the daughter of the Count Palatine Conrad, who 
refused to marry the Emperor Henry VI. The young 
princess already loved Henry of Brunswick. Aided 
by the mother of the obstinate princess, the lover 
gained access to the castle, and married her secretly. 
As the princess was about to become a mother, the 
countess disclosed the truth to her husband, who 
capriciously passed a law that all future countesses 
Palatinate should repair to the castle to await their 
accouchments. The castle of Gutenfels rises pic- 
turesquely behind the town of Caub. It was here the 
English Earl of Cornwall, elected Emperor of Ger- 
many in 1257, became enamored of the beautiful 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 359 

Countess Beatrix of Falkenstein, whom he married 
on the death of his first wife, twelve years later. 
The ruins of the castle of Schonberg, near Ober- 
wesel, marks the former dwelling-place of a mighty 
soldier, Count Frederick Hermann of Schonberg, who 
fought under the Prince of Orange, and with him 
crossed to England. He lies buried in Westminster 
Abbey. This castle once fell into the possession of 
the Swedes. 

We are now near the steep, rocky cliff known as 
the Lurleiberg, which rises to the height of four hun- 
dred and thirty-three feet above the river. This is 
the place where the siren of the Rhine is supposed to 
have dwelt, and to have lured sailors and fishermen to 
their destruction. A railway company has utilized 
the spot in a very unromantic way by making a tun- 
nel through the cliff, and the shriek of the locomotive 
is supposed to have frightened the seductive siren to 
other and more sequestered haunts. The famous 
whirlpool remains, but it does not present a very 
dangerous appearance. 

Near St. Goarhausen is the ruined castle of Neu- 
Katzenelnbogen, commonly known as " The Cat." It 
was erected in 1393 by Count Johann of Katzeneln- 
bogen, whose family became extinct more than four 
hundred years ago. Not far below is the ruins of the 
castle of Thurnberg, or Deurenburg, which was deri- 
sively called "The Mouse," in contradistinction from 



360 A SUMMER JAUNT 

"The Cat" of Count Katzenelnbogen. This strong- 
hold was begun by Archbishop Boemund of Treves, 
and completed in 1363 by his successor, Kuno von 
Falkenstein. On the opposite bank, just below St. 
Goar, is the castle of Bheinftds, which stands three 
hundred and seventy-seven feet above the w T ater, and 
is the most imposing ruin on the Ehine. It was 
founded as long ago as 1245, and has seen many 
vicissitudes. In 1692, it was defended and held 
against the French General Count Tallard, with an 
army of twenty-four thousand men at his back, but 
twice within the next century it was in French pos- 
session. In 1797 it was blown up and sold for a sum 
equivalent to three hundred dollars. The ruin now 
belongs to the Emperor of Germany.. 

The ruined castles of Sterrenberg and Leibenstein, 
which are upon a rocky eminence above Bornhofen, 
have an interesting history. They are called "The 
Brothers," and, at the time of the Crusades, were 
owned by the Knight Bayer Yon Boppard, whose two 
sons, Conrad and Heinrich, became enamoured of their 
foster sister, the beautiful Hilclegarde. Heinrich 
joined the Crusades, leaving Conrad to win the prize, 
and the old man built the castle of Sterrenberg, in 
order that his son and the fair bride might be near 
him. On account of the old man's death, the nuptials 
were postponed, and Conrad's love soon grew cold. 
Hearing of his brother's achievements, he, too, went 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 361 

to the wars, and when he returned, he had with him a 
lovely Grecian bride. Hildegarde shut herself up in 
the loneliest chamber of the castle, refusing to see any 
one except her attendant. Late one evening, a stranger 
knight demanded the hospitality of the castle. He 
proved to be the chivalrous Heinrich, who, hearing of 
his brother's perfidy, resolved to avenge his foster 
sister's wrongs. The brothers met for mortal combat, 
but, before their swords had crossed, Hildegarde 
interposed and insisted on a reconciliation. Hildegarde 
then retired to the convent of Bornhofen, at the base 
of the rock where the castles stand. Conrad's Grecian 
bride soon proved faithless, and he, overcome with 
shame and remorse, threw himself jon his generous 
brother's breast, exclaiming that no consolation now 
remained for him but his friendship. Thus their 
estrangement ended, and the brothers dwelt together 
at the castle of Leibenstein, while Sterrenberg was 
forever deserted. 

Bopparcl is an old Roman town situated on the left 
bank of the Rhine, and just below this point, the 
river makes an extensive bend, opening up new scenes 
of beauty. The imposing castle of Marksburg, four 
hundred and ninety-two feet above the Rhine, was 
formerly used by the government of Nassau as a state- 
prison. 

The castle of Stolzenfels is one of the most beauti- 
ful of all these ancient structures. It is four hundred 



362 A SUMMER JAUNT 

and twenty feet above the Rhine, and is situated only 
a short distance above Coblenz. Almost directly 
opposite, near the mouth of the river Lahn, is the 
picturesque castle of Lahneck, which was the strong- 
hold of the Templars after the martyrdom of De 
Molay and his sixty knights in 1314. Stolzenfels is a 
very ancient stronghold. It is owned by the Emperor 
of Germany, and has been for the most part restored. 
The castle of Lahneck has also been recently restored. 

Coblenz is a large and handsome town of about 
twenty-five thousand inhabitants, beautifully situated 
at the mouth of the Moselle ; and on the opposite 
bank is the frowning fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, the 
" Gibraltar of th$ Rhine," perched upon a precipitous 
rock, three hundred and eighty-seven feet above the 
river. There are two bridges across the Rhine at this 
point, one of boats and another for the railways. 

Below Coblenz are more castles, among which are 
those of Andernach, Hammerstein, Rheineck, and 
Arenfels ; and several ancient and picturesque towns, 
including Neuweid, Andernach, Linz, and Remagen. 

The ancient counts who held their seats at the castle 
of Rheineck, were from an early period lords of an 
independent imperial fief, and towards the close of the 
eighteenth century, one of them is said to have enjoyed 
absolute sway over "twelve poor subjects, one Jew, 
three farms, and one mill." On an eminence below 
Remagen, is a beautiful Gothic church, built by the 
late Count Furstenberg-Stammheim 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 363 

Near Konigs winter, which is a short distance above 
the university city of Bonn, are the ruins of the castle 
of Rolandseck, and on an island in the river, half-hid- 
den by foliage, is the ancient nunnery, which is re- 
ferred to in the legend of Roland and Hildegunde. 
The castle is believed to have been built by Roland, 
who was a peer of France, and paladin of Charlemagne. 
It is mentioned in a document of 1040. Tradition re- 
lates that the knight ascended the Rhine in search of 
adventure and found himself the guest of Count Heri- 
bert, lord of the Seven Mountains, at his castle of 
Drachenburg. According to custom, the daughter of 
the host, the peerless Hildegunde, welcomed him. 
Her beauty captivated him, and they became affianced 
lovers. But their happiness was of short duration ; 
Roland was summoned by Charlemagne to the Crusade. 
Time sped on, and anxiously Hildegunde awaited the 
return of her lover ; but he came not. The brave Ro- 
land was said to have been slain, and as the world no 
longer possessed a charm for Hildegunde, she took 
refuge in the " Kloster," on the adjacent island of Non- 
ncnwerth. The rumors of her lover's death were, 
however, untrue, and he returned to find the object of 
his love lost to him forever. In despair he built the 
castle, of which only one crumbling arch now remains ; 
and there he lived in solitude, catching an occasional 
glimpse of a fair form passing to or from her devotions 
in the little chapel. At length he missed her, and soon 



364 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the tolling bell and a mournful procession conveyed to 
him the heartrending intelligence that his beloved Hilde- 
gunde was now indeed removed forever. From that 
moment he never spoke again ; for a short time he 
dragged on his wretched existence, but his heart was 
broken, and one morning his sole attendant found him 
rigid and lifeless, his glassy eyes still turned towards 
the convent chapel. 

The Drachenfcls, or Dragon's Eock, is the nearest 
of the Sicbcngeberge, or the Seven Mountains, which 
stretch out northward from the Ehine : 

" The castle crag of Drachenfels 

Frowns o'er the wide and winding Ehine, 

Whose breast of waters broadly swells 

Between the banks which bear the vine, 

And fields which promise corn and wine ; 

Nor could on earth a spot be found 

To nature and to mo so dear, 

Could thy dear eyes in following mine, 

Still sweeten more these banks of Ehine." 

— Byron. 

Here Siegfried is supposed to have slain the dragon, 
whose blood made him invulnerable. The cavern 
where the monster is said to have lived is in the midst 
of the vineyards half-way up the hill. The wine 
yielded by these vineyards is known as Drachenblut, 
or Dragon's blood, but its -power of imparting the 
same invulnerability that Siegfried is said to have 
attained, may be doubted. The ruins of an ancient 
castle, built at the beginning of the eleventh century, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 365 

and afterwards occupied by the Counts of Drachen- 
fels, crown the summit of the mountain. 

Bonn is a charming city of about the same size as 
Coblentz. It is famed not only for its university, but 
also from having been the birthplace of Beethoven. 
A bronze statue of the great composer occupies the 
Miinsterplatz. Below Bonn there is not much worthy 
of description, until Cologne, with its towering cathe- 
dral, is reached. * 

Cologne is the largest town in the Rhenish province 
of Prussia, and general report ascribes to it the dis- 
tinction of being the dirtiest. Some of its old streets 
are narrow, ill-paved, and poorly drained, but the 
newer thoroughfares are more cleanly. Coleridge 
declares that he counted "two and seventy stenches," 
and adds, in wicked verse, — 

" The river Rhine, it is well known, 
Doth wash the city of Cologne ; 
But tell me, nymphs, what power divine, 
Shall henceforth wash the river Ehine ? " 

Some of these two and seventy stenches have dis- 
appeared since Coleridge's time, perhaps to give place 
to the scents of eau de Cologne, of which there are 
forty " only genuine and original " makers in the city. 
At all events, the city has been cruelly maligned, 
although it is bad enough as it is. The city has about 
one hundred and thirty thousand inhabitants, and 
carries on a large commercial trade with the rest of 



366 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the world. Its commercial importance was estab- 
lished in the Middle Ages. It is a place of great 
antiquity, having been one of the chief Roman settle- 
ments in this part of Europe. Agrippina, the mother 
of the Emperor Nero, was born here in the camp of 
her father, Germanicus, and A. d. 50 founded on the 
site of the present city a colony of Roman veterans, 
called "Colonia Agrippiensis," and afterward "Colonia 
Claudia Agrippina." Hence the present name of the 
city. In 308, Constantine began a bridge across the 
the river, and the pillars are still to be seen when the 
water is low. It subsequently became an important 
city of the Franks, whose king, Clovis, was crowned 
here. The inhabitants of Cologne are said to boast 
still of their Roman descent, and to a certain extent 
they keep up their affinity with Italy. In no part of 
Europe north of the Alps is the carnival kept in such 
style as in Cologne. 

Having established ourselves at the Hotel Hollande, 
fronting the pier, an achievement which seemed simple 
enough when contemplated from the steamer's deck, 
but which became more of a task when it was found 
that the entrance was on the other side, up, around, 
through, and about some narrow and dark little 
streets, we sallied forth to view the cathedral, which 
is the crowning glory of Cologne. This vast edifice 
was begun in 1248, and is still unfinished. It is in a 
fair way to be completed in a few years, however, under 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 367 

the fostering care of the Emperor of Germany, who 
has already expended between two and three millions 
of dollars upon it. The greater part of this sum has 
come from the royal coffers, while the remainder has 
been collected from private subscriptions, societies, 
cathedral lotteries, &c. The work of restoration and 
completion was begun by Frederick William III., and 
was continued by his successor. 

The building is in the form of a cross, four hundred 
and forty-four feet long, two hundred and one feet wide 
(two hundred and eighty-two feet in the transepts) , and 
two hundred and one feet high. The central tower 
over the transept is three hundred and fifty-seven feet 
in height. The two main tow T ers, when completed, 
will reach the great height of five hundred aud eleven 
feet, — forty-six feet in excess of the tower of Strass- 
burg Cathedral, and nineteen feet in excess of the new 
cathedral tower in Rouen. Several hundred men were 
at work upon the edifice at the time of our visit. 
Some facetious writer has denominated this magnificent 
specimen of Gothic architecture the Church of the 
Millennium, because it is constructed to hold more 
worshippers than are ever likely to visit it while sin 
reigns in this world ; and there is an old legend, to 
the effect that the original design was furnished by the 
Devil, and that the edifice can, therefore, never be 
finished. It is a lamentable fact that the most ancient 
parts of the cathedral — the pillars and foundations — 



3 68 A SUMMER JAUNT 

are already in a forward state of decay, and Prof. 
Heim of Zurich has pointed out the danger of the 
prostration of the entire edifice. Even the original 
designs of the building have been lost, and its con- 
tinued construction, and expected completion, will be 
in accordance with the ideas of later architects. The 
real architect of the cathedral, as is seen to-day, was 
Zwirner, a master of Gothic art, celebrated throughout 
Europe, who died in 1861. The work is now being 
executed in accordance with his plans. The lofty in- 
terior, the rich, stained-glass windows (some ancient 
and some modern) , and the magnificent proportions of 
the whole structure, impress one deeply. The ex- 
terior is, however, on account of its richness, as well 
as its vastness, more impressive than the interior. 
The main portal is no less than ninety-three feet high. 
The choir, which is separated from the nave by an iron 
screen, was completed in 1322. It is flanked by 
seven chapels, in which are a few paintings and several 
interesting monuments. 

The treasury of the church contains many relics, 
which are interesting to look upon, whether they are 
all they pretend to be or not. For instance, the skulls 
of the Magi, or Three Kings, — Caspar, Melchior, and 
Balthazar, — who journeyed to Bethlehem to adore the 
infant Saviour, are here shown, — for a fee, of course. 
The traveller could not expect such a " show " to be 
set up for nothing. They are encircled with golden 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 369 

crowns, and the reliquary in which they are preserved 
was once gorgeously adorned with gold and precious 
stones. Most of these latter disappeared at the time 
Cologne was held by the French, towards the end of 
the last century. The remains were brought by the 
Empress Helena to Constantinople. They were after- 
wards taken to Milan, and, in 1164, presented by 
Frederick Barbarossa to Archbishop Reiald, by whom 
they were removed to Cologne. The remains of St. 
Engelbert are preserved in a silver shrine, which, of 
itself, weighs one hundred and forty-nine pounds, and 
there is no end of magnificent vestments, ecclesiastical 
vessels, monstrances, &c, some of which are of count- 
less value, being studded with diamonds, and other 
precious stones. It would require extended space to 
describe, even briefly, the many rare objects contained 
in this apartment. 

From the cathedral we proceeded to the Church of 
St. Ursula, or the Church of the Eleven Thousand Vir- 
gins. This is an ancient edifice, built at the be«rinnin2T 
of the eleventh century by the Emperor Henry II. 
St. Ursula was a princess of Britanny, who, with the 
modest retinue of eleven thousand vestals, made a pil- 
grimage to Rome about fourteen hundred years ago. 
As she returned down the Rhine, her party encountered 
ihe cruel Huns, who overran the country at that time, 
and who murdered the entire eleven thousand. The 
bones of this numerous band of martyrs are disposed 



370 A SUMMER JAUNT 

about the church ill glass cases, inserted in the walls . 
on shelves, around the cornices, — in short, every- 
where : and the walls and ceiling of the treasury of the 
church is literally lined and covered with ghastly 
relics. Skulls peer down upon you from every niche, 
or are preserved in metallic busts, and pious inscrip- 
tions are spelled out, with other osseous remains of 
the unfortunate women. There are said to be eighteen 
hundred skulls within the church, and seven hundred 
and thirty-two others in the treasury. Some are orna- 
mented with precious stones, worked into bands of 
bead-work by pious hands. The visitor may examine 
the phrenological developments on the sconce of St. 
Ursula, or of half a dozen other saints whose mortal 
remains are here displayed. There are many other 
curiosities in the treasury, including three thorns from 
the Saviour's crown (there are said to be two com- 
plete crowns in Jerusalem, some at Rome, some at 
Venice, and one at Notre Dame, in Paris), and one of 
the vessels used in the Saviour's miracle of turning 
water into wine at the marriage-feast of Cana in Gali- 
lee. 

There are other churches in Cologne worthy of a 
visit : for example, Great St. Martin, the most con- 
spicuous edifice in the city after the cathedral ; that 
of St. Pantaleon, which is known to have existed as 
early 670 ; and that of St. Gereon, where are pre- 
served the bones of four hundred and eight martyrs of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 371 

the Theban Legion, with their captains, Gereon and 
Gregory (afterwards the patron saints of Cologne), 
who perished here in 286 during the persecution of the 
Christians under Diocletian. Some of the churches 
also contain some interesting paintings, and the house 
where Rubens, it is claimed, was born is also shown. 
In the same street, the Sterneugasse, is the house where 
Marie de Medicis, widow of Henry IV. of France, 
died in exile in 1642. Her heart was buried in front 
of one of the choir chapels of the cathedral. There 
are two bridges connecting Cologne with the town of 
Deutz. One of these is a stately affair of iron, which 
serves for both railway and ordinary traffic, with an 
equestrian statue of Frederick William IV. at one end, 
and one of William I. at the other. The second one 
is constructed of boats, and is the first structure of this 
kind encountered in ascending the Rhine. There are 
other bridges of this kind at Coblenz, Mayence, and 
Kehl, near Strassburg. A statue to Bismarck has 
lately been erected in Cologne. 

On the north side of the Neumarkt, near the 
Apostles' Church, is a house with two horses' heads 
affixed to the* upper story. " Thereby hangs a tale." 
When Cologne was ravaged by the plague three hun- 
dred and twenty-years ago, Richmoclis von Lyskir- 
chen, wife of the knight Mengis von Aclocht, who re- 
sided in this house, was attacked by the malady, and 
having fallen into a death-like swoon, was interred in 



372 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the Apostles' Church. Being awakened from her 
trance by a thievish grave-digger in his attempts to 
abstract her ring, she returned to the house of her 
husband, who was naturally astonished at the sight. 
Imagining it to be an apparition, he declared he would 
sooner believe that his horses would ascend to the loft 
of his house than that his departed spouse should put 
in a personal appearance. Scarcely had he uttered 
these words than the clatter of the animals' feet where 
heard upon the stairs. The horses soon mounted to 
the top, and their heads were seen looking out of an 
uppermost window. The lady recovered, and lived 
many years afterwards, and the miraculous event is 
commemorated in the manner described. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 373 



CHAPTER IX. 

BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 

From Cologne to Brussels — Aix-la-Chapelle — Liege — Lou vain — 
Belgium's Capital — The Hotel de Ville and the Guild Halls — 
The Galerie St. Hubert — The Cathedral of Ste. Gudule — The 
Park and the Neighboring Palaces — The Museum of Paintings 

— The Wiertz Museum — Monuments, Statues, and Fountains — 
The Conservatoire de Musique — The Lace Manufactories — 
The Battle-field of Waterloo — Mechlin — Antwerp in Gala 
Attire — The Cathedral and its Art Treasures — Quentin Mat- 
sys's Well — The Church of St. Jacques — Celebrated Works of 
Art — Eubens and his Pictures — A Quaint Church Exhibition 

— The Plantin Museum — The Zuid-Bev eland of Holland — 
A Glimpse of the Land of Dikes and Ditches — Crossing the 
North Sea — Back again in London. 

The distance from Cologne to Brussels by the most 
direct railway route is one hundred and forty-one 
miles, and the traveller passes through Diiren, Aachen 
(Aix-la-Chapelle), Verviers, Liege, and Louvain, all 
of which are places of considerable importance, 
Aachen and Liege being quite large cities. The 
scenery by the way is everywhere charming to look 
upon, the country being for the most part rich and 
fruitful, but it is not of that striking character to 
enchain the attention after the passage of the Rhine, 
which inevitably makes all ordinary scenery seem 



374 A SUMMER JAUNT 

tame in comparison. A portion of the route lies 
through a mining district. 

Diiren, some twenty -five miles from Cologne, is a 
busy manufacturing place, situated in a fertile plain 
on the river Roer. Aix-la-Chapelle, as the ancient 
city of Charlemagne is generally known to the world, 
although the Germans still persist in calling it Aachen, 
is forty-three miles from Cologne. Although a very 
ancient city, the Aix-la-Chapelle of to-day is compara- 
tively modern. It lies in a fertile basin, surrounded 
by gently sloping hills, and the ancient walls made the 
city circular in form. The population is between 
seventy and eighty thousand. Charlemagne was born 
and died here, and the town became the second city in 
his empire, and the capital of his dominions north of 
the Alps. From his death, in 814, down to the acces- 
sion of Ferdinand I., in 1531, it was the scene of the 
coronation of thirty-seven German emperors. The 
insignia of empire were preserved here until 1793, 
wdien they were transferred to Vienna. Aix-la-Cha- 
pelle has frequently been the scene of imperial diets, 
ecclesiastical conventions, and congresses ; and several 
important peace negotiations have been concluded 
here. The cathedral, corn exchange, rathhaus, and a few 
^ates are all that remain of the ancient town. In the 
cathedral is the tomb of Charlemagne. It was opened 
in the year 1000, by Otho III., nearly two hundred 
years after his death, and the body of the great 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 375 

emperor was found seated on a marble throne. This 
throne was afterwards used for the coronation cere- 
monies of the emperors, and it is now preserved in 
the gallery, or Hochmiinster, together with a sarco- 
phagus of Parian marble, in which the remains 
of Charlemagne reposed one hundred and sixty-five 
years after the first ojxening of the tomb. In the 
sacristy are what are termed the " Great Belies," con- 
sisting of what are claimed to be a robe of the Virgin 
Mary, the swaddling clothes of the infant Saviour, the 
cloth with which Christ was girded on the cross, and the 
cloth with which the body of John the Baptist was cov- 
ered after execution. These objects are held in great 
veneration, and are disclosed to view only once in seven 
years. The lesser relics, which are disclosed to pub- 
lic view on the payment of the showman's fee, include 
a part of the " true cross," the leathern girdle of 
Christ, the girdle of the Virgin, &c. The skull, a 
gigantic bone (said to be the arm-bone, but really the 
leg-bone), and hunting-horn of Charlemagne are 
also preserved here. A part of the cathedral was 
erected by Charlemagne between 796 and 804. 

Between the stations of Herbesthal and Dolhain we 
crossed the line from Germany into Belgian territory ; 
and at Verviers, an important manufacturing place of 
between thirty thousand and forty thousand inhabi- 
tants, situated on the river Vesdre, we were met by the 
Belgic custom-house officers. These officials were 



376 A SUMMER JAUNT 

quite as courteous and considerate as those we had 
previously encountered in France and Germany, and 
the delay caused by their examination of luggage 
was very slight. The little town of Herbesthal is the 
place of examination on the Prussian side of the line, 
if the traveller is moving the other way, although 
trunks are generally permitted to be carried to Aix-la- 
Chapelle or Cologne before inspection, if the passen- 
ger is ticketed through to either point. 

Liege, the capital of the Walloon district, and for- 
merly the seat of a principality of that name, has over 
one hundred thousand inhabitants, and is picturesquely 
situated on the river Meuse. The city is engaged 
largely in manufacturing, and the coal mines, which 
form the basis of its commercial prosperity, are situ- 
ated in the immediate vicinity, and some of them 
extend beneath the houses and the river. One of the 
chief branches of industry carried on here is the 
manufacture of arms, and in many instances the Wal- 
loons have not scrupled to use the weapons in the 
making of which they excel. There have been fre- 
quent insurrections, and many times foreign armies 
have been called in to chastise the rebellious natives. 
The ancient bishops of Liege, who were constituted 
temporal princes by the German emperors, maintained 
a body-guard of five hundred men, and Walloon sol- 
diers, like the Swiss, were in the habit of serving in 
the armies of Spain, France, and Austria. They 




THE HOTEL DE VILLE, KRUSSELS. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 377 

enjoyed a high reputation for bravery, which has been 
justly extolled by Schiller in his " Wallenstein." 

Louvain, one hundred and twenty-three miles from 
Cologne, and eighteen from Brussels, is an old walled 
city which has wholly lost its ancient prestige. It is 
situated on the river Dyle, which empties into the 
Eupel, an effluent of the Schelde. The present pop- 
ulation is not far from thirty-four thousand. In the 
fourteenth century, when Louvain was the capital of 
the Duchy of Brabant, and the residence of the princes, 
the number was more than ten thousand greater. 
Here, as in other Flemish towns, the weavers formed 
a very turbulent class, and always manifested great 
jealousy of the influence of the nobles in their civic 
administration. During an insurrection in 1378, 
thirteen magistrates of noble family were thrown from 
the windows of the Hotel de Ville, and received by 
the populace below on the points of their spears ; but 
Duke Wenceslaus besieged and took the city, and 
compelled the citizens to crave his pardon with every 
token of abject humiliation. The power of the nobles 
soon regained its ascendancy, and their tyrannical 
sway caused thousands of the industrious citizens to 
emigrate to England. The decay of Louvain began 
at that period. The present Hotel de Ville, erected 
about the middle of the fifteenth century, is a rich 
and beautiful example of late Gothic architecture. 

We arrived at Brussels after a railway ride of nearly 



378 A SUMMER JAUNT 

six hours, and were soon comfortably established at 
the Hotel de la Poste, in the Rue Fosse-aux-Loups, 
ready to begin in real earnest our inspection of the 
"miniature Paris," as the capital of Belgium is 
frequently called. The title is not inappropriate, for 
there are many marks of resemblance between the 
two cities. These may be traced in the general 
aspect, in the style of building, in the disposition and 
adornment of the handsome boulevards and public 
parks, and in the tastes and customs of the people. 
Above all, the prevailing language spoken in Brussels 
is the French. The Burgundian princes, who long 
ago resided here, were generally surrounded by a 
large retinue of French knights, and even at that 
period French became the most fashionable language 
among the nobility of the Netherlands. Thus the 
character of the city and its inhabitants gradually 
developed itself; the court and nobility, with their 
French language and manners, establishing themselves 
in the upper part, while the lower quarters were chiefly 
occupied by the trading community and lower classes, 
whose language and character were essentially Flemish. 
These characteristics of the upper and lower parts of 
the city, are distinctly recognizable at the present day. 
French is still the language of the upper classes, and 
Flemish that of the lower. In the best shops, both 
languages are spoken. Brussels has one advantage 
over Paris, — at least for the tourist. It is smaller. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 379 

Its parks, promenades, museums, and other objects of 
interest are within a comparatively narrow compass. 
The area of the entire kingdom is only eleven thou- 
sand three hundred and seventy-three square miles, — 
only a little larger than the State of Maryland, and 
less than one-quarter the size of the State of New 
York. Only eight out of all the United States of 
America are of less area than Belgium. But not- 
withstanding its comparative insignificance, geographi- 
cally, Belgium is of much importance politically, hold- 
ing as it does the balance of power, to some extent 
at least, among the greater nations. The population 
of Brussels is about one hundred and seventy-five 
thousand, or, with its eight suburbs, about three hun- 
dred and twenty-five thousand. There are twelve 
thousand German, and six thousand English residents. 
Most of the latter reside in or near the handsome 
Quartier Leopold. 

The Hotel de Ville is by far the most interesting 
edifice in Brussels. It is of irregular quadrangular 
form, one hundred and ninety-eight feet in width, and 
one hundred and sixty-five feet in depth, and encloses 
an open court. The principal facade is in the Gothic 
style, the east half having been begun in 1402, and 
the west forty-one years later. A graceful tower of 
open Gothic-work, built wholly of stone, rises to the 
great height of three hundred and seventy feet ; but 
for some unexplained reason it does not occupy the 



380 A SUMMER JAUNT 

centre of the facade. The edifice fronts upon a 
spacious square, — the Grande Place, — and is there- 
fore seen to the best possible advantage. The spire 
terminates in a gilded metal figure of the Archangel 
Michael, sixteen feet in height, which serves as a vane. 
It was constructed in 1454. The rooms and corridors 
contain some good paintings, chiefly portraits, and 
some old tapestry. In one apartment are some fine 
frescos by Janssens. The large banquet-hall is a 
spacious and very handsome apartment which has 
recently been decorated in Gothic style, with carved 
oak ceilings. It is often said that the famous ball 
given by the Duchess of Richmond, on the eve of the 
battle of Waterloo, took place here, but it is an error. 
That celebrated scene of " revelry by night " occurred 
at a mansion in the Rue Roy ale. In the Salle des 
Manages, where the civil part of the marriage cere- 
mony is performed, Counts Egmont and Hoorne were 
condemned to death in 1568 by the cruel Duke of 
Alva, and in the neighboring square those noble 
patriots were executed, while the wicked tyrant 
viewed the scene from a window. 

Some of the old guild-houses still adorn the Grande 
Place, although most of these edifices now standing 
have been restored. They suffered much damage dur- 
ing the bombardment of the town by Louis XIV. in 
1695. The old hall of the Guild of Butchers is indi- 
cated by a swan. The Hotel des Brasseurs bears on 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 381 

its gable a gilded equestrian statue of Duke Charles 
of Lorraine. This building has been lately restored, 
and the statue is modern. The Hall of the Carpenters 
is richly adorned with gilding. The gable of the Hall 
of the Skippers resembles the stern of a vessel with 
protruding cannon. The Maison de laLouve, or Hall 
of the Archers, derives its name from a group repre- 
senting Romulus and Remus with the she-wolf. 

Near the Grande Place, leading from the Rue 
Marche aux Herbes, is the entrance to the Passage, or 
Galerie St. Hubert, a spacious and extensive arcade 
with a great number of shops, which present a brilliant 
appearance when lighted. The Galerie is seven hun- 
dred and two feet in length, seventy-eight feet in 
width, and fifty feet in height. At the time of our 
visit, extensive preparations were being made here, 
and in other parts of the city, for a grand illumination 
in honor of the silver wedding of King Leopold II. 
and his Queen. The festivities were to continue four 
days. 

The Cathedral of Ste. Gudule and St. Michel is an 
imposing Gothic structure which was erected in the 
twelfth and fourteenth centuries. It contains several 
fine monuments, but its chief features of interest are 
some beautiful stained-glass windows, and a curiously- 
carved pulpit. The windows represent different 
periods, from the thirteenth century to the present 
time. One of the windows represents the Last Judg- 



382 A SUMMER JAUNT 

ment, and is remarkable for the crowd of figures 
introduced. It was the work of F. Floris. The pul- 
pit was originally in the Church of the Jesuits at Lou- 
vain, and was executed in 1699 by Verbruggen. It is 
a representation in carved wood of the Expulsion from 
Paradise. Anions? the foliage are various kinds of 
animals, including a bear, dog, cat, squirrel, ape, &c. 
The ape is represented eating an apple. Above is the 
Virgin with the infant, who crushes the head of the 
serpent with the cross. 

The Park, though not extensive, is handsomely laid 
out and finely shaded. It contains several fine foun- 
tains, and in one corner is a concert garden and a 
theatre. During the summer, evening concerts are 
given by the orchestra of the Theatre de la Monnaie, 
under MM. Duponts and Warnots. At one end of 
the park is the King's Palace, and at the opposite end 
is the Palace of the Nation, formerty the place of 
meeting for the old Council of Brabant, and now occu- 
pied for the sittings of tb<i Belgian Senate and House 
of Deputies. The royal palace is devoid of interest. 
King Leopold has a summer chateau at Laeken, a few 
miles distant from Brussels. The Ducal Palace, for- 
merly occupied by the Prince of Orange, is near the 
King's Palace. It has been occupied until recently as 
a museum of paintings by modern Belgian masters. 
The Palace of the Nation contains some interesting 
paintings and groups of statuary. The vestibule is 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 383 

adorned with modern statues of ancient Flemish 
worthies, including Pepin of Heristal (died in 714), 
and Count Baldwin of Flanders, who became Emperoi 
of Byzantium. In the centre of the vestibule are four 
allegorical figures representing the freedom of the 
press, of religion, of associations, and of instruction. 
The Museum is a spacious and well-arranged build- 
ing, containing, in addition to a collection of paintings, 
both ancient and modern, a natural history collection, 
and a Galerie Historique, containing pictures and busts 
recalling important events and personages connected 
with the history- of Belgium. The building was the 
residence of the Austrian stadtholders of the Nether- 
lands after 1713, when the old ducal palace was 
destroyed by fire. A chapel near the entrance is used 
as a Protestant place of worship, and services are held 
there every Sunday in English,*- French, and German. 
The Musee de Peinture has recently been considerably 
enlarged by the addition of the fine collection of mod- 
ern works formerly kept at th ■ Palais Ducal, or Musee 
Moderne. The gallery of the old masters contains 
pictures by Rubens, Teniers, Jorclaens, Janssens, Van 
Dyck, Paolo Veronese, Guido Rcni, and other famous 
painters. The Rubens pictures are by no means his 
best, but there are two gems by Teniers (the younger) , 
one representing a Flemish fair, and the other the 
interior of a picture gallery. The former cost the 
government, in 1867, when it was purchased of the 



384 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Boschaert family at Antwerp, one hundred and twenty- 
five thousand francs. Among the pictures by Rubens 
is one representing the martyrdom of St. Ursula and 
her companions at Cologne. The collection of modern 
works includes paintings by Verboeckhoven, Czermak, 
De Braekleer, Van Bree, and others, some of them 
being of great merit. Adjoining the Museum is the 
Palais de PIndustrie, which contains the polytechnic 
school and the royal library ; and the University is 
in the same neighborhood. Not far from these build- 
ings, too, are both the old Palais de Justice, and the 
new edifice of the same name. The 'latter is a large 
and very imposing structure. 

The Musee Wiertz is a collection of pictures painted 
by the eccentric artist of that name, who never sold 
any of his works while living. After his death they 
were, purchased by the government. Some of the 
pictures exhibit great power, but most of the subjects 
are of a horrifying character, as a few of the titles 
may indicate, to wit: "Child Burnt to Death," "A 
too Hasty Burial," "Hunger, Folly, and Crime," 
"Suicide," "Thoughts and Visions of a Head after 
Decapitation," " The Devil's Mirror," " A Scene in the 
Infernal Regions," &c. "A Scene in the Infernal 
Regions " is a representation of Napoleon in hell, sur- 
rounded by torturing and taunting demons. One of 
the most horrible pictures represents a maniac mother, 
in a dimly-lighted room, in the act of cutting up one 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 385 

of her children with a butcher-knife and putting the 
pieces into a pot boiling upon the fire. The picture 
is viewed through a small aperture in a wall, which 
has apparently been overlooked by the woman, who 
has carefully covered every other key-hole and crevice. 
There are numerous semi-nude pictures, and even the 
Belgian lady to whom the painter was to have been 
married is represented in questionable taste. In one 
place you behold the figure of a scantily-clad female 
through a half-open door, and in another you discover 
your own reflected face beneath a monk's cowl, as you 
gaze through an aperture in the wall. The gallery 
abounds in similar surprises. Two or three of the 
pictures are familiar through prints and photographs 
the world over. 

Brussels contains several noteworthy monuments 
and statues. The Colonne d.u Congres, erected to 
commemorate the congress of June 4, 1831, by which 
the present constitution of Belgium was established, 
and Prince Leopold, of Saxe-Coburg, elected king, — 
a tall column of the Doric order, surmounted by *a 
statue of King Leopold I. , — rises in the Place du Con- 
gres, which adjoins the Eue Royaie. The Martyrs' 
Monument is an elaborate memorial to the Belgians 
who fell in the decisive struggle with the Dutch, Sep- 
tember 23 and 24, 1830. A figure represents liber- 
ated Belgium engraving on a tablet those memorable 
days, and on marble slabs are the names of four hun- 



386 A SUMMER JAUNT 

drecl and forty-eight men who gave up their life-blood 
for their country. The substructure of the mon- 
ument rises in a sunken gallery. The monument, 
which was designed by W. Geefs, stands in the Place 
des Martyrs, near the Rue Neuve. In front of the 
King's Palace are colossal statues of Counts Egmont 
and Hoorne ; and in front of the handsome Church 
of St. Jacques sur Coudenberg, is a superb equestrian 
statue of Godfrey de Bouillon, which is said to stand 
on the very spot where, in 1097, the knight exhorted 
the inhabitants of Brussels to participate in the Cru- 
sade. At a little distance in rear of the Hotel de 
Ville, at the corner of the Rue du Chene and the Rue 
de l'Etuve, stands one of the most famous of all the 
fountains and monuments in the city, the little Man- 
nikin. It is remarkable as an object of art only on 
account of its close imitation of nature. It may be 
remarked, however, that the Mannikin is greatly ven- 
erated by the lower classes, and that he is provided at 
public expense with a valet, who on fete days dresses 
him in some one of the eight suits kept for the special 
purpose, several of which have been royal gifts. 
Once or twice the little figure has been carried off by 
sacrilegious hands, and his disappearance was regarded 
as a public calamity. 

The Conservatoire Royal de Musique of Brussels is 
well known as one of the leading music schools in 
Europe, especially for imparting instruction upon cer- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 387 

tain instruments. The director is F. A. Gevaert, 
who also occupies the position of inspector-general of 
all the royal music-schools of Belgium, some forty in 
number. The Brussels Conservatoire is a copy, in 
many respects, of the Paris Conservatoire, and it 
holds about the same parental relationship to the other 
music-schools of the country that the Paris institution 
does to the provincial schools of Lille, Toulouse, Di- 
jon, Nantes, and Lyons. It nevertheless has an indi- 
viduality of its own. The list of its forty-five profes- 
sors includes such honored names as Yieuxtemps, 
Joseph Dupont, August Dupont, Warnots, Brassin, 
Servais, Mailly, Colyns, and De Swert. M. Faure, 
the celebrated baritone, is named as the inspecteur des 
cours de chant. The rooms of the Conservatoire, 
which are situated on the Rue cle la Regence, near the 
Park, were kindly thrown open to Dr. Tourjee and 
the members of his party. They contain a large col- 
lection of modern and ancient instruments, gathered 
from all parts of the world. These are classified 
with much care, and an elaborate descriptive and ana- 
lytical catalogue has been in part prepared and pub- 
lished. Some of these* instruments were contributed 
through the King of Belgium, and many came from 
the Fetis collection. The museum is not as large nor 
as rich as the one connected with the Paris Conserva- 
toire, but is nevertheless very interesting. 

Brussels is a musical city, and both concerts and 



38& A SUMMER JAUNT 

operatic performances abound during the fashionable 
season. The chief theatre is in the Place de la Mon- 
naie, where the royal mint is also situated ; a signifi- 
cant conjunction, since the opera receives a subvention 
from the government, and the people are fond of 
music. Some bas-reliefs on the tympanum of the 
theatre facade, by Simonis, represent the Harmony of 
Human Passions. The lace manufactories, of course, 
constitute a peculiar and most interesting feature of 
Brussels. Visitors are admitted to the workrooms, 
and are given every facility to observe the process of 
manufacture, and also to purchase the manufactured 
product. About one hundred and thirty thousand 
women are employed in lace manufacture in Belgium, 
and the value of the product is about fifty millions of 
francs. 

A visit to the battle-field of Waterloo, about a 
dozen miles from Brussels, may be performed either 
by coach, or by railway and connecting carriages. A 
favorite way is to ride out on the English coaches, 
which leave Brussels every morning. Guides who 
speak English, German, and French are in readiness 
to conduct visitors over the ground and to rehearse 
all the incidents of the memorable struggle of June 
18, 1815, in which Napoleon's star sank in disaster. 
From the summit of an artificial mound erected on the 
spot where the Prince of Orange was wounded, and 
beneath which the bones of all who fell on both sides 






THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 389 

were interred, a comprehensive survey may be taken 
of the scene of the conflict ; and the various places in 
the vicinity which are inseparably connected with the 
great event, can be identified. This mound is sur- 
mounted by a huge lion, weighing twenty-eight tons, 
cast from the captured French cannon. In 1832, the 
French soldiers, on their march to Antwerp, hacked off 
a portion of the animal's tail, but Marshal Gerard 
protected the monument from further injury. From 
this elevation it may be judged, to a great extent, 
how the famous battle was fought, as the guide indi- 
cates the various positions occupied by the armies of 
Napoleon and Wellington, and the direction from 
which Blucher and his troops approached. There are 
other monuments in the vicinity, and there is a 
museum containing relics of the battle. A Prussian 
monument near the village of Plancenoit, suffered 
some damage at the hands of the French soldiers in 
1832, at the same time the Belgian lion was shorn of 
a part of his tail ; but the injury has been repaired. 

From Brussels to Antwerp is only twenty-six and a 
half miles, and nearly half-way between the two cities 
is the ancient town of Malines, or Mechlin, noted, 
like Brussels, for its laces, although in this respect, 
as in everything else, the place has allowed other 
towns to get ahead and reap an advantage. The un- 
enterprising character of the inhabitants has been 
manifested for centuries. In 1551, the magistrates 



390 A SUMMER JAUNT 

exerted all their influence to prevent the canal be- 
tween Antwerp and Brussels from being constructed 
so as to pass near their town. Two centuries later, 
precisely the same policy was pursued in relation to 
the canal from Antwerp to Louvain ; and on the con- 
struction of the railway the corporation refused to 
allow the station to be built within its walls, so that 
the traveller, if he designs to visit Malines, must 
alight some distance from it. The place has some 
thirty- five thousand inhabitants, is handsomely laid 
out, and contains several interesting churches and 
other buildings. The cathedral, which was begun in 
the thirteenth century, has an unfinished tower three 
hundred and twenty feet high, its projected height 
being four hundred and sixty feet. The following 
lines, written many years ago by a monk to describe 
the characteristics of the leading Belgian towns, would 
seem to be as true regarding Malines to-day as then : 

"Nobilibus Bruxella viris, Antwerpia niimmis, 
Gaudavum laqueis, formosis Bruga puellis, 
Lovanium doctis, gaudet Mechlinia stultis." 

Eendered into English, this inscription informs us 
that Brussels rejoices in noble men, Antwerp in 
money, Ghent in halters, Bruges in pretty girls, 
Louvain in learned men, and Malines in fools. The 
unenviable reputation of the citizens of Malines for 
stupidity originated in the story that they once mis^ 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 391 

took the moon, shining through their tower, for a 
conflagration, and endeavored to extinguish it by 
means of the fire-engines. 

Antwerp is one of the most flourishing of Euro- 
pean commercial cities, but on account of its art 
treasures is it chiefly interesting to the traveller. Our 
visit chanced to fall upon a fete day, the celebration of 
the Assumption of the Virgin, which was the occasion 
of special pomp and circumstance within the cathe- 
dral. The flags of Belgium, of Antwerp, and of the 
Romish Church fluttered from house-fronts in every 
street, and there were preparations for illuminations 
around the shrines placed in the street walls. The 
shops were closed and the churches were thronged. 
There were many thousands of flags displayed in the 
city. 

At the great cathedral, one of the finest Gothic 
edifices in all Europe, the image of the Virgin Mary 
stood upon a high platform, decked in costly robes and 
jewels, while huge banners were hung upon the walls. 
A million and a half of francs was estimated as the 
value of the dress, jewels, and golden crown with 
which the figure was adorned. There are three hun- 
dred pictures in the cathedral, including Rubens's 
greatest works, "The Elevation of the Cross," "The 
Descent from the Cross," "The Assumption of the 
Virgin," and "The Resurrection." Another cele- 
brated picture here to be seen is the " Head of the 



392 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Saviour," by Leonardo da Vinci. Of all Eubens's 
works, "The Descent from the Cross" is unquestion- 
ably the greatest. The picture is very striking, and 
is full of marvellous effects in color. The principal 
figure is drawn with great power, and the attitude is 
strongly expressive of the inertness of a dead body. 
The white linen on which the body of the Saviour lies 
forms an effective part of the composition. 

The cathedral contains, in addition to the numerous 
pictures, some wonderful carvings in wood, including 
a pulpit by Van der Voort. The open-work Gothic 
spire, or tower, is four hundred and four feet high, 
and one of the handsomest in the world. Charles V. 
is said to have declared that it ought to be kept in a 
glass case, and Napoleon compared it to Mechlin lace. 
It contains a carillon of ninety-nine bells. From the 
top of the spire there is, of course, a fine view of Ant- 
werp and of the river Schelde, upon the bank of which 
the city lies. The edifice dates back to 1322, but the 
tower (which, with the facade, was designed by Jean 
Ammel, of Boulogne, in 1422) was not finished until 
the sixteenth century. The building is three hundred 
and eighty-four feet in length, the nave has a width of 
one hundred and seventy-one feet, the transepts ex- 
tend two hundred and thirteen feet, and the height is 
one hundred and thirty feet. Near the cathedral is 
Quentin Matsys's Well. The interest attaching to it 
is on account of an iron canopy, which was constructed 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 393 

by the famous painter in 1529, before he quitted the 
occupation of a blacksmith. Tradition has it that he 
loved the daughter of a painter, and to distinguish 
himself, and so gain favor, abandoned the anvil for the 
palette. 

In the Church of St. Jacques are several fine pic- 
tures by Rubens , Martin de Vos, Jordaens, Van Dyck, 
and other famous artists ; some works by Geefs the 
sculptor, and the tomb of Rubens. Antwerp is the 
city of Rubens, and the visitor is continually coming 
upon some memento of the great painter. The house 
he occupied is carefully preserved, and on the Place 
Verte is a statue erected in his honor. Antwerp also 
contains handsome statues of Teniers and Van Dyck. 

The Museum of Antwerp is filled with rare pictures, 
including some of the most celebrated paintings by 
Rubens, Van Dyck, Quentin Mutsys, Teniers, Rem- 
brandt, Otto Venius (the teacher of Rubens), Holbein, 
Jordaens, Van Eyck, Der Weyden, Steen, Van Veen, 
De Braekleer, and many others. There are in this col- 
lection some six hundred pictures, most of which were 
taken from the suppressed churches and monasteries 
of Antwerp. The picture-gallery itself, indeed, occu- 
pies a suppressed monastery of the Minorites. The 
most important works in the museum are fourteen 
pictures by Rubens, and six by Van Dyck. Among 
the former are "Christ Crucified between the Two 
Thieves," "The Adoration of the Magi," "The Holy 



394 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Family" (known as "La Vierge au Perroquet," on 
account of the parrot at the s,ide), and "The Com- 
munion of St. Jerome." Van Dyck's pictures were 
formerly church-decorations. Quentin Matsys's " Dead 
Saviour," which is regarded as his greatest work, may 
also be seen here. It was formerly an altar-piece in 
the cathedral. The museum is owned by the Academie 
des Beaux Arts, the successor of the mediaeval guild 
of St. Luke. 

Connected with the Church of St. Paul, which for- 
merly belonged to the adjoining Dominican monastery, 
is a curious exhibition, quite at variance with the pre- 
vailing art-tendencies of Antwerp. It is a representa- 
tion of Mount Calvary, in the form of an artificial ele- 
vation, covered with pieces of rock and slag, and gar- 
nished with rude statues of saints, angels, prophets, 
and patriarchs. In a grotto below is a representation 
of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and there is also 
a sort of side-show, representing Purgatory. Such an 
exhibition has a ludicrous aspect in a city filled with 
the most beautiful and ennobling objects of art. 

The Zoological Garden, near the railway station, 
containing a fine collection of animals and a cabinet of 
natural history, is one of the best in all Europe. 

The Plantin Museum is an institution of especial 
attractiveness to all persons interested in the typo- 
graphic art. It was established by Christopher Plan- 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 395 

tin, a Frenchman, who came to Antwerp in 1550, and 
established a bookseller's shop, a printing-office, and 
book-bindery. He did much to advance the art of 
printing, and the establishment was continued long after 
his death. There are presses, types, thousands of wood- 
cuts, books, manuscripts, paintings, engravings, and 
even the wages'-books of compositors, pressmen, en- 
gravers, and book-binders. The history of printing 
during the sixteenth, seventeenth, and eighteenth cen- 
turies is very fully illustrated in this manner. There 
are memorandum-books containing notes of hand from 
Rubens ; particulars of all the works for which esti- 
mates were required, and all the payments by Philip 
of Spain. Some idea of the extent of the collection 
may be formed when it is known that the last descend- 
ant of the founder has recently sold it to the city of 
Antwerp for a sum equivalent to $240,000. 

The quays and docks of Antwerp are of great extent, 
aud the river-front is lined with shipping flying the 
flags of all nations. It is a curious fact, that the least 
maritime of the more important European countries 
should possess the greatest port on the continent. 
According to the statistics recently compiled by Colo- 
nel Weaver, United States Consul at Antwerp, the 
maritime movements of that port are inferior only to 
those of London and Liverpool. Next in importance 



396 A SUMMER JAUNT 

come successively Marseilles, Hamburg, Havre, Hull, 
Amsterdam, Bremen, Southampton, Bordeaux, and 
Glasgow. 

We left Antwerp shortly before six o'clock in the 
afternoon, after dining at the Hotel de la Paix. At that 
hour, the religious festival which had taken possession 
of the city for the day, had begun to manifest itself 
at the cafes. Crowds of people surrounded the tables 
of these establishments, and drank in with their beer 
the inspiration of music furnished by orchestras and 
military bands. Our course was by railway to Roosen- 
daal, and thence down through the Zuid-Beveland of 
Zeeland, the southernmost province of Holland, to 
Ylissingen, where we were to take the Sheerness 
steamer for England. The country, after leaving Ant- 
werp, is generally low and flat, but it is highly culti- 
vated, and presents a varied and interesting appear- 
ance on account of an abundance of trees. There are 
quite extensive fortifications on the Belgian border, 
and King Leopold makes a goodly show of his sol- 
diery. After leaving Esschen, we passed into Hol- 
land. 

At Roosendaal, where we changed cars, we submitted 
to the mild attentions of the custom-house authorities 
of Holland, which, however, caused little or no delay, 
as our trunks received the cabalistic chalk-mark with- 



l^^ 




THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 397 

out being opened at all. Thenceforward our route 
was through Dutch territory, the characteristics of 
which were soon apparent. The names of the towns 
and the stations would alone indicate a Dutch con- 
dition of things. Here are some of them : Wouw, 
Bergen-op-Zoom, Woensdrecht, Krabbendijke, Bieze- 
linge, and 'sHeer-Arendskerke. The railway, for a 
little distance, runs down into a country that seems all 
marsh, but soon emerges into a section covered with 
farms. Trees line the highways, and hither and yon 
run the little ditches which aid in reclaiming the land 
for the farmers. In the gathering gloom of the even- 
ing, the windmills, without wind enough to stir their 
sails, look like a row of sleepy giants with outstretched 
arms. Near the end of our railway journey, we pass 
the town of Micldleburg, the birth-place of Hans and 
Zach. Jansen, the inventors of the telescope, and the 
capital of the province of Zeeland. Ylissingen is 
another of those double-headed towns which are 
called one thing by the natives, and something else by 
the outside world. To the English, Vlissingen is 
known as Flushing. It is strongly fortified, being at 
the mouth of the Schelde, and has witnessed some 
stirring scenes in times of w T ar. Admiral de 
Ruyter, the famous naval hero of the Dutch, 
who once took his vessels up the Thames, throw- 



398 A SUMMER JAUNT 

ing London into great consternation, was born here 
in 1607. 

It was nearly nine o'clock when we disembarked 
from the cars and went on board the "Scadt-Vlissingen," 
the largest of the steamers of this line, to find, as is 
generally the case, that the passengers exceeded the 
sleeping accommodations of the boat. There is not. 
as much attention shown to the comforts of passengers 
on European passenger boats as in America, and com- 
fortable state-rooms are the last thing, probably, that 
would be deemed essential. Such necessities are 
generally modelled after the contracted spaces devoted 
to sleeping purposes on the Atlantic steamers, with, 
perhaps, a still greater compression of the room, and a 
further crowding of passengers into the limited space. 
The passage across the North Sea occupies all night, 
and the waters are often terribly agitated, in which 
event the journey may be made anything but pleasant, 
as any one who has been on a crowded boat during a 
season of sea-sickness can well understand. On this 
particular night, however, the North Sea was on its 
good behavior, so that naught can I say against it 
from personal experience. 

The bluffs and beaches about the mouth of the 
Thames had an inviting look on the bright summer 
morning we gazed upon them from the steamer's deck, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 399 

and we would have gladly enjoyed a closer inspection 
of their charms at Margate or Kamsgate, but a con- 
tinuance of our journey to London was imperative. 
Sheeruess, or at least that portion of it seen from the 
Queenboro' landing, is not particularly inviting. The 
English officers of customs caused us the least pos- 
sible trouble, scarcely more than those at Roosendaal, 
the night before, although Queen Victoria's representa- 
tives are generally more particular in such matters 
than are those of the Kinsr of the Netherlands. 

The ride up to London was pleasant, as are all rail- 
way rides in England. Charming bits of scenery 
peep out continually with varied landscapes, luxuriant 
fields, shaded cottages, picturesque hamlets, or popu- 
lous towns. Chatham, Eochester, and Strood, three 
large places which run into each other, are passed., and 
by the time Bromley is reached, the passenger realizes 
that he is approaching the great city of London. The 
towers of the Crystal Palace at Sydenham, soon flit 
by the hurrying train, which continues on above some 
of the houses on the Surrey side of the Thames. The 
well-known landmarks of the metropolis (St. Paul's, 
the towers of the Parliament Buildings, &c.) broaden 
in the view, Blackfriars Bridge is crossed ; and then 
the outer world is lost by the train plunging into a 
great station, and onward through subterranean ways 



400 A SUMMER JAUNT 

to another part of the town. Alighting at the Holborn 
Viaduct Station, we were soon hurrying across the 
city in cabs, through a drenching shower, to the Mid- 
land Grand Hotel, where most of the other Tourjee 
parties had already arrived. 



THBOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 401 



CHAPTEE X. 

THE FIRST SECTION — ITALY. 

The Journey from London to the Continent, and through Belgium, 
Germany, and Switzerland — Mont Cenis Tunnel — Milan — 
The Cathedral — Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper" — Verona 

— Romeo and Juliet — The Capulet Mansion — Juliet's Tomb 

— Venice — The Gondoliers — Venetian Painters — St. Mark's 
Church — The Doge's Palace — The Bridge of Sighs — The 
Piazza of St. Mark's — The Doves of Venice — Reception of 
King Humbert and Queen Margherita — Carnival of Venice — 
Florence — Its Palaces and Churches — The Baptistry — The 
Cathedral — Sante Croce — Dante — The Medicean Chapel — 
The Pitti Palace — The Uffizzi Gallery — The Venus de Medici 

— The Group of Niobe — American Artists — The Powers 
Family — The Protestant Cemetery. 

The " Italian " section of the party, the largest of 
the five divisions, and numbering seventy persons, 
left London on the evening of July 15, under the 
experienced guidance of Signor C. A. Barattoni, who 
had accompanied the entire company from America. 
Although only twenty-six years of age, Signor Bar- 
attoni is a veteran traveller. He has been twice 
around the world, and has travelled in connection 
with " Cook's parties " one hundred and thirty thou- 
sand miles in America, Europe, Asia, and Africa. 
He is an Italian, born in Rome ; but his experience 



402 A SUMMER JAUNT 

as a~ traveller has made him a cosmopolite. His cor- 
rect business habits, his care for the wants of all, and 
his courtly and gentlemanly bearing early placed him 
high in the esteem of the members of the party who 
thus found themselves under his charge ; and these 
qualities, united to his experience and good judgment, 
contributed largely to the enjoyment of the subsequent 
journey over the continent. 

Leaving London by rail for Harwich, the party 
there took a steamer across the North Sea for Ant- 
werp, arriving in the latter city the succeeding fore- 
noon. The Cathedral, with its paintings, and the 
other sights of Antwerp, were visited, and the travel- 
lers then proceeded to Brussels, where they were 
quartered at the Hotel de la Poste. The succeeding 
clay was busily employed in inspecting the various 
objects of interest in that city, many of the party 
adding to this pleasant task an excursion to the battle- 
field of Waterloo. From Brussels, the journey was 
continued by rail through Liege, Yerviers, and Aix 
la Chapelle to Cologne. The day chosen for this 
journey chanced to be exceedingly warm. At Col- 
ogne, the Cathedral and the curious Church of St. 
Ursula were, of course, visited. 

Next came the magnificent boat-journey up the 
Ehine, an entire day being devoted to this glorious 
experience. Arriving at Biebrich in the evening, the 
party took carriages for Wiesbaden, stopping at tho 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 403 

Hotel du Rhin. Frankfort and Heidelberg were the 
next places visited, the travellers tarrying over a 
Sabbath at the Hotel de l'Europe in the latter city. 
From Heidelberg, the railway journey was resumed, 
through Darmstadt to Baden-Baden, where a very 
pleasant sojourn was made. 

The succeeding stage of the journey was a little 
more extended, the Falls of the Rhine at Neuhausen, 
near Schaffhausen, being the next halting-point. 
Here began the delightful tour through Switzerland, 
to which the beautiful falls, and the grand outlook 
upon the distant hills, form a fitting introduction. 
The party proceeded from this point to Zurich and 
Lucerne. The sojourn in the latter city enabled the 
visitors to inspect the various objects of interest in 
and about the place, and also to listen to a concert on 
the famous organ in the Cathedral. A visit was 
made to the summit of the Rlgi ; but, unfortunately 
for the excursionists, clouds covered the mountain- 
top, and no view of the other Alpine heights was had ; 
the novelty of being carried up into the clouds by the 
iron horse, and the beauty of the scenery bordering 
upon the lovely lake of the Four Cantons, which could 
be scanned during the steamer trip to Vitznau, afford- 
ing the only compensation for the trouble thus taken. 
Crossing the lake to Alpnach, the party proceeded, in 
carriages, over the Brunig Pass to Brienz, and from 
the latter point a steamer was taken across the lake 



404 A SUMMER JAUNT 

to the Falls of the Giessbach. After witnessing the 
spectacle of the illumination of the waters, and pass- 
ing the night at the fine hotel in front of the falls, 
the travellers proceeded to Interlaken, where a Sab- 
bath was passed. Signor Barattoni obligingly gave 
his companions an extra day at this most beautiful 
of all Swiss summer resorts, and, in addition to enjoy- 
ing the glorious outlook upon the majestic Jungfrau, 
such members of the party as desired to do so, made 
the delightful excursion to Lauterbrunnen and Grindel- 
w r ald. The "Third Swiss" section, Mr. Bruce's, was 
met at Interlaken, and a pleasant reunion was held at 
the Hotel Victoria. 

Resuming the journey, Signor Barattoni conducted 
his joyous band of travellers to Berne, where, at the 
Hotel Bellevue, the " Fourth Swiss " section, headed 
by Dr. Tourjee, was met. The two divisions made 
up a party of over one hundred Americans, and 
together they attended a special organ concert at the 
Cathedral, provided by Dr. Tourjee's liberality. 
Fribourg was the next halting-place, and here another 
organ concert was listened to. Lausanne and Geneva 
were the next objective points, and in this stage of 
the tour an excursion was made upon Lake Leman to 
the famed Castle of Chillon. The interesting city of* 
Geneva received a due share of attention, and from 
this point, the party made a divergence from the route 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 405 

taken by the other divisions, going into Italy by the 
way of the Mont Cenis Tunnel. 

The succeeding account of the journey of the "Italian" 
section is more in detail, inasmuch as the route was 
traversed by none of the other divisions. 

The seventy members of the Tourjee party who 
enrolled their names in Division No. 1, or the Italian 
section, deem themselves the fortunate tourists of the 
great excursion. Not that the route over which they 
travelled, in common with the other four divisions, was 
not full of interest to every intelligent sight-seer, em- 
bracing Scotland, England, Belgium, Germany, the 
Rhine, Switzerland and the Alps, Paris and the Exposi- 
tion, — but to have our trip shorn of a view of the gor- 
geous Cathedral of Milan, that flower-garden in marble ; 
Venice, with its palaces, prisons, and churches, its 
winding canals through which the dark and dreamy 
gondolas float to the music of the gondoliers ; Flor- 
ence, with its wealth of art and beauty, its galleries 
lined with treasures of mediaeval artists and relics of 
antiquity ; and Rome, that mighty capital of the earth, 
which so long ruled the world with its armies, its litera- 
ture, and its laws, sitting in splendid ruins upon her 
sevenhills, "the Niobe of nations," and yet seeming more 
grand than the most gorgeous city of modern days ; 
the Bay of Naples ; Pompeii, the marble city that for 
eighteen centuries slept beneath the ashes of a vol- 
cano ; and the throbbing of the fiery heart of Vesu- 



406 A SUMMER JAUNT 

vius, as painted on the midnight sky; — to have 
these pictures taken from memory's gallery, would 
be to deprive our tour of its sunniest experiences and 
its most hallowed recollections. 

We had made one pass of the Alps ; we had 
ascended the Rhigi ; and now, in going to Italy, we 
were to make their passage through that mighty 
groove, the Mont Cenis Tunnel. The poet has said 
truly, — 

"Mountains interposed make enemies of nations." 

In various parts of the world we find that moun- 
tain-chains stand as barriers between different nations, 
and in many instances the boundaries thus formed 
by nature have remained unchanged for hundreds of 
years. 

On the map of Europe the most prominent moun- 
tain-chain is that of the Alps, and it has stood as a 
separating line between nations for a long time. It is 
true that occasionally wars have been carried beyond 
these mountain-chains, but for practical purposes the 
Alps have been for centuries the separating line 
between France and Austria on the north, and 
Italy on the south. Hannibal crossed the Alps 
with an army two centuries before the birth of our 
Saviour. The Mont Cenis Pass was crossed by sev- 
eral armies from the twelfth to the seventeenth cen- 
tury. It was little more than a mule-path till 1803, 



THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 407 

when Chevalier Fabroni, .under the orders of Napo- 
leon, began the construction of a carriage-road, which 
was completed in 1810, at a cost of seven million five 
hundred thousand francs. More recently, in 1868, a 
railway was completed over this pass, but the ascent 
is laborious and tedious, so that rapid communication 
was impossible. It remained for the science of the 
present day to overcome the obstacles which the 
mountains interposed, not by cutting away the Alps, 
but by piercing a passage through' them. More than 
twenty years ago the attention of the French and 
Italian governments was called to the necessity of a 
tunnel through the Alps, by which France and Italy 
should be connected. The Mont Cenis is the largest 
tunnel in the world, extending from Fourneaux on the 
French side, to Bardouneche' on the Italian — a little 
short of eight miles. When it was begun, in 1857, 
with the ordinary system of hand-drills, it was found 
that it would take thirty or forty years to complete 
the work. A necessity arose for penetrating the rock 
much faster than by the ordinary means, and there 
was also a necessity for supplying the workmen with 
fresh air. These necessities led to Sommelier's in- 
vention of drills worked by compressed air, and of 
the machinery for compressing the air. The tunnel is 
about twenty-five feet wide and the same in height; 
broad enough for two double lines of rails. Its cost 
was fifteen millions of dollars. 



408 A SUMMER JAUNT 

The St. Gothard Tunnel, which is to connect Switz- 
erland and Italy, will be over nine miles long ; two 
miles longer than Mont Cenis, or nearly twice as 
long as the great American bore, — the Hoosac 
Tunnel. . 

After a brief stay at Turin (of which more here- 
after), we sped on to Milan, whose great Cathedral is 
one of the wonders and glories of Italy. One thing is 
most noticeable in Italy, and that is the unlikeness of 
every town to every other. Milan is as utterly unlike 
Florence or Venice, as both of these are unlike Rome. 
It is a clean, new-looking city, extremely well-kept. 
It is full of life ; it has a population of over two hun- 
dred thousand inhabitants, and is one of the wealthiest 
manufacturing cities in Italy, silk-making being its 
principal industry. 

At seven o'clock, when dinner is over, every one 
turns into the street. You can hardly hire an open 
carriage unless you make an instantaneous rush for it, 
for every one is driving. You see sumptuous equi- 
pages without ^number, with men in gorgeous liveries ; 
also you see no end of the little hackney open phaetons 
which you can hire so cheaply. The principal streets 
s*eem all alive with people. In front of the cafes the 
sidewalks are crowded with tables, at which the Milan- 
ese are sipping ices and drinking their after-dinner 
coffee. From time to time one carriage after another 
draws up before these cafes, and the occupants are 



THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 409 

served with cakes and ices, which they eat without dis- 
mounting, and go on again. An ingenious American 
writer suggested, a year or two ago, the manufacture 
of an artificial climate for invalids, which would do 
away with the necessity of their flying southward from 
the inhospitality of our northern winters. One of his 
plans was to have miles of glass-covered walk, through 
whose crystal roofs light and air could penetrate, but 
which could be a complete shelter from wind and rain. 
This part of the ingenious gentleman's plan has been 
carried out in Milan. In the centre of the city is the 
Arcade Victor Emmanuel, the most magnificent affair of 
the kind in Europe. These arcades are roofed with 
glass. You can walk there comfortably for hours, 
wiiile the wind blows and the rain pours outside, 
amused by as fine shops as there are in the world. 
Seen at evening, with all its shops brilliantly lighted, 
with its crowds of gay, chattering promenaders, and 
other crowds within and without the cafes, where 
orchestral music is served with the beer and wine, it 
presents a picture of rare animation and interest. The 
length of the Arcade is nine hundred and sixty feet ; 
breadth, forty-eight feet; height, ninety-four feet. 
The form is that of a Latin cross, with an octagon in 
the centre, over which rises a cupola one hundred and 
eighty feet in height, and it is lighted in the evening 
by two thousand gas-jets. The decorations of the 
octagon are well executed, and bear testimony to the 



410 A SUMMER JAUNT 

good taste of the Milanese. It is adorned with twenty- 
four statues of celebrated Italians. 

Near the Arcade, in the Piazza della Scala, is a 
statue of Leonardo cla Vinci, whose great fresco of 
" The Last Supper," now almost obliterated, is the 
principal art attraction of Milan, and continues to 
attract copyists from all the world. It has been 
touched and retouched until its former beauty is gone, 
and yet, as the original of the multitude of copies and 
imitations, it is an object of great and thrilling interest. 
The other objects of interest in Milan are the statue of 
Cavour ; the Church of St. Ambrose, erected in the 
twelfth century, the picture gallery in connection with 
the Library of the Academy in the Brera, containing 
works of several masters ; the Theatre della Scala, the 
largest in Europe ; the Amphitheatre, or Arena, with 
seating capacity for thirty thousand persons ; and the 
Arch of Peace, erected by the first Napoleon. This is 
a triumphal arch in the Eoman style, begun in 1804, 
by Napoleon, as a termination of the Simplon route, 
and completed by the Emperor Francis in 1830. The 
inscriptions in honor of the Emperor Francis have 
been replaced by others commemorating the emancipa- 
tion of Italy in 1859. The lofty gateway, with three 
passages, erected entirely of white marble by Cagnola, 
is adorned with numerous reliefs and statues. 

We have scarcely mentioned the Cathedral, but it is 
the first thing and the last which you go to see at 




THE CATHEDRAL AT MILAN. 



. THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 411 

Milan. We spent a Sabbath here, and viewed with 
deepest interest the pageant of worship as seen in 
priest and people and song and service of this grand 
temple. We watched the vast tide of worshippers 
as they surged into the Cathedral, some at the confes- 
sional, some bowing, kneeling, and crossing themselves 
to pictures and statues of the Virgin and saints, others 
mingling in the grand throng of reverent souls. One 
cannot but pity these misled and benighted souls, who 
are so sincere and reverent, whose religion is a thing 
for times and places, and has so -little to do with their 
e very-day life. Far be it from any one to scoff at 
these forms of devotion, but rather respect a feeling, 
superstitious though it be, which has but one spark of 
the element of real sincerity and true religion. 

The exterior view of this so-called "eighth wonder 
of the world " was a slight disappointment. The 
facade, especially, is lacking in the height and impres- 
sive grandeur of those at Cologne, Strasbourg and 
4)ther places. And yet it fills you with wonder as you 
gaze upon its couutless pinnacles, turrets, and statues ; 
and the more you examine it, the more your wonder 
grows. Where were found the patient hands to exe- 
cute all this marvellous carving? the believing souls to 
give of their substance the means for a work so costly ? 
We were not so fascinated b}^ it as by dreamy, pictur- 
esque, solemn old St. Mark's at Venice, or the beauti- 
ful II Duomo of Florence ; but this Milan Cathedral is 



412 A SUMMER JAUNT 

far more ornate than either. It is a million-leaved rose 
of architecture. It is a mixture of the Gothic and 
Romanesque styles ; the body of the structure is 
entirely covered with statues and richly-wrought 
sculpture, with needle-like spires of white marble 
rising up from every corner. But of the exquisite, 
airy look of the whole mass, although so solid and 
vast, it is impossible to convey an idea. It appears 
like some mighty fabric of frost-work painted by the 
cold in arctic winters. There is a unity of beauty 
about the whole which* the eye takes in with a feeling 
of perfect and satisfied delight. 

The interior is rich, grand, and harmonious beyond 
expectation ; but it is not till you have mounted its 
roof, and roamed through its forest of dazzling white 
turrets and statues, that you get anything like a cor- 
rect idea of this miracle in marble. 

From the tower, three hundred and sixty feet above 
the pavement, the eye takes in a picture of wonderful 
extent and beauty. 

The exterior of this Cathedral is decorated by one 
hundred and six Gothic turrets and four thousand five 
hundred marble statues ; and the whole structure, 
with labor very cheap for most of the time since its 
commencement, in 1386, cost 550,000,000 francs, or 
more than $100,000,000. 

We found King Humbert and Queen Margherita at 
Milan, and the city gayly decorated in their honor, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 413 

with the national colors. The new king and queen 
are very popular, especially Margherita, who is young, 
and exceedingly beautiful in personal attractions. 
Their portraits adorn all the shop windows. The 
king looks brave and stern, and yet we fear he cannot 
do so much for Italy as did his father, the late King 
Victor Emmanuel. The royal party came before us on 
our way to Milan, but we preceded them on our ride 
to Venice ; in fact, we acted, alternately, as escort for 
each other for a long distance on our Italian journey. 
The square, on which fronts the Cathedral and the 
Royal Palace, was brilliantly illuminated in the even- 
ing; the gas-jets blazing in semi- circular bands over 
each door, on the three sides of the grand square, 
together with a crown on the summit of a lofty staff, 
with monograms of the king and queen blazing below, 
lighted up the square with the full splendor of clay. 
While on -.our way to the station we were greatly 
amused by the way the Milanese sprinkle their streets. 
A large sprinkler is mounted on wheels, from the 
lower part of which depends a dangling hose, six or 
eight feet long. A man follows behind, with a strap 
attached to the end of the hose, which he frantically 
shakes about from right to left, scattering the water in 
all directions, and- looking very much as if he were 
shaking an elephant's tail. 

From Milan to Verona is only the journey of a few 
hours ; but we could not pass this old town, where 



414 A SUMMEJJ JAUNT 

Romeo and Juliet lived, loved, and suffered. It is a 
beautiful old town, and is celebrated not only for its 
connection with the sweetest and most romantic of 
tragedies, but for its wonderful fortifications, which, 
we were told, are the strongest in Italy, if not in 
Europe. We took the regular sight-seeing round, 
visiting the churches (in the Cathedral is an 
"Assumption of the Virgin," by Titian), the Tombs, 
and the Amphitheatre. The latter is like the 
Roman Colosseum on a smaller scale. This am- 
phitheatre made, us realize more than ever how 
grand and how immense was the other in its day. It 
was not so picturesque as the glorious old ruins at 
Rome, but much more complete ; indeed, it is in a 
very good state of preservation. It was built by 
Diocletian, in the third century, and is capable of 
seating thirty thousand persons. 

Verona has gone to seed, and is now a dull town, 
compared to what it was when the "Two Gentlemen" 
were playing their pranks in its streets, or when the 
Montagues and the Capulets were carrying on that 
family quarrel which resulted so tragically for some 
of the young people. The reader must look else- 
where for a history of this ancient town, but as for 
its poetry, William Shakespeare is cordially recom- 
mended as a reliable person, whose word may be 
depended upon. The town is situated on a broad 
rolling plain, within sight of the Alps. The rapid 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 415 

Adtee Eiver flows through it in the form of a blunted 
"V," and is crossed by half a dozen bridges, more or 
less. About the whole town there is a flavor of mild 
decay. 

Nearly all the houses have the appearance of having 
been built three or four hundred years ago, as they 
were. The churches, which are numerous and hand- 
some, were built from the twelfth to the fifteenth 
century. One of the squares is adorned by a statue 
of Dante, who found an asylum here when driven 
from Florence. Near by, in the yard of a small 
church, are the tombs of the Scaligers, costly Gothic 
monuments of the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, 
which still excite the wonder 'and admiration of the 
age. The Scaligers were a noble family, who had 
things pretty much their own way in Verona for two 
centuries. In the street Saint Sebastiano we saw the 
Capulet mansion, Juliet's home, which is now turned 
into an inn. 

In the court, and on the_ street, there are several 
balconies suitable for a moonlight dialogue of the 
most impassioned character. 

It was but a slight effort of the imagination to see 
Juliet looking into the garden, with its roses less 
bright and sweet than her lips, and to see the gallant 
Romeo standing beneath, lifting his handsome south- 
ern face into the moonlight, towards her who was his 
sun, and eclipsed the moon. 



416 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Here you may also see Juliet's tomb ; but you have 
a strong suspicion that it is only such for the purpose 
of getting a trifle of your money. There is an air of 
doubt about all the relics of Juliet at Verona. 

We were conducted, in the burning sun, through 
street after street, till we came to the deserted mon- 
astery, and wandered through its blossoming garden, 
to the tomb where they say she was buried. The 
stone sarcophagus in which they tell us her fair 
body used to lie was certainly empty, save for the 
wreaths and bunches of flowers affectionate pilgrims 
had laid in it. I should have liked to think that the 
fair flower of Verona had slept there once ; but the 
guide-book casts a doubt on the matter, and since 
guide-books are given to affirmation, and believe all 
they possibly can, we too have to confess our doubts. 
If Juliet were not buried there, however, she ought to 
have been, for it was a lovely spot; and, at any rate, 
here in Verona she once lived, with her beautiful dark 
eyes, and her warm, bright lips, and the glory of her 
abundant hair ; and somewhere in this old town she 
has turned to dust, from which, no doubt, flowers are 
springing as fresh as those she used to wear on her 
bosom. 

Mark Twain said he could n't weep at Juliet's tomb, 
because he was n't near enough of kin. We always 
thought Mark a bad fellow, but we never supected he 
was a heathen ; yes, worse than that, even destitute 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 417 

of all humanity, for did not a heathen writer say, two 
thousand years ago : "Homo sum; liumani nihil a me 
alienum puto ." Mark ought to blush when he thinks 
of that. 

" There is a glorious City in the Sea. 
The sea is in the broad, the narrow streets, 
Ebbing and flowing ; and the salt sea-weed 
Clings to the marble of her palaces." 

The ride from Verona to Venice, of about three 
hours, was a charming one. On our left the Alps 
towered grandly against the blue sky, the foot-hills 
crowned by castles and churches and fortified towns 
of mediaeval appearance ; on our right, the broad 
plain, like a cultivated garden. We passed through 
Vicenza and Padua, whose grim walls and dingy 
towers speak of the days of Rome's greatness and her 
decay. Toward sunset a golden cloud appeared far 
ahead and to our right. It stood over the Adriatic, 
and seemed to beckon us towards Venice, which soon 
rose above the gilded waters, dotted with gondolas 
and barges and picturesque, yellow-sailed h'shing- 
boats. It was the realization of a life-longing, and, 
when we stepped into a gondola to float down the 
Grand Caiml to the palace which had become our 
hotel, we could not have felt better if we had all been 
doges, and Venice were still queen of the sea. 

And what shall we say of Venice, — this curious, 
novel, and fascinating place ; the best described, and 



418 A SUMMER JAUNT 

still the least known of the cities of Europe ? Unique 
in her history, as well as in her situation ; set aside, as 
it were, on her piles, while barbarians overran the 
rest of the Roman Empire, Venice preserved through 
the Dark Ages some of the strongest and most charm- 
ing characteristics of pagan civilization ; and when 
light began to break through the darkness, there was 
still, in her new birth, many gleams of the old pagan 
spirit. The history of the rise of Venice to the 
commercial supremacy of the world ; her prowess, 
her wealth, her luxury ; what other history is so 
poetical ? No wonder that art took root in such a soil 
and made the Venetian school of painters one of the 
most celebrated. The decline of Venice was as natu- 
ral as her rise. The world outgrew the methods by 
which she governed ; and corruption prepared her for 
her fall. But in her decline, even in her moral decay, 
she was still bright, sparkling, and beautiful ; and she 
exists to-day as the gem among cities, the charming 
resort above all others for those who would seek the 
new, or would forget the old. 

We had no sooner been landed, after our gondolier 
race, at the Grand Hotel Victoria, and been refreshed 
by Venetian viands, than our conductor 'treated us 
to a first-class surprise in the shape of a concert by 
the gondoliers. They came into the court of the 
hotel, and for an hour the air trembled alternately 
with the sweet strains and harmonies of the singers and 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 419 

the applause of the listeners. These same gondoliers 
were to be our companions on the morrow through 
the canals and over the lagoons of the city, and the 
melodious songs they had given us haunted our dreams 
through all the hours of that sweet summer night. It 
is sad to record that these singers do not make music 
for the love of art, or to win the smiles of the fair, but 
for the vulgar purpose of gain. "Modern degeneracy" 
has overtaken the Italian singer. However, come to 
think of it, they clo not very much differ from other 
singers in that regard. Some of the gondoliers 
know by heart long passages from Ariosto and Tasso, 
and often chant them with peculiar melody. But this 
talent seems at present on the decline. Of course, in 
the doing of Venice, a gondola-sail by moonlight is 
the proper thing, and to be omitted would be an end- 
less regret. No sooner had the last echoes of the 
gondoliers died away, than a goodly number of the 
party chartered their gondolas and embarked on the 
green waters, now bright and silvery with the beams 
of the full-orbed moon. That first night in Venice 
was too full of poetry, romance, and song. We 
could not sleep. Though no horse is ever seen, or 
rumble of carriage heard in the streets, yet the nights 
are vocal with the dialogues, songs, and shouts of the 
gondoliers ; and it was not till the small hours of 
the morning, after the shouts and songs had died 
away, that sleep came to our eyes. 



4-20 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Don't think you can never walk in Venice. The 
city is permeated by streets like any other city, only 
they are very narrow, and only serve for pedestrians. 

There are no horses or hand-carts. All transporta- 
tion of people or merchandise is by the canals. One 
can walk all over Venice in the streets, which vary 
from four to twelve feet wide, but the ways are 
crooked and blind, and for any distance the gondola is 
the ordinary means of conveyance. Almost every 
house in the city fronts on a canal, and also on one of 
these narrow ways. Here and there, on a ramble, one 
comes upon an open space of five to ten thousand 
square feet, generally in front of a church, and called 
by its name. Venice is a city of enchantment, and its 
spell was upon us from the moment we left the railway- 
station and stepped into a gondola. There is only one 
Venice in all the world. Think of a great, populous 
city, where the rumble of wheels is never heard, and 
not a single horse within its limits. Your sole car- 
riage is a gondola, and these are all painted black. 
This is in accordance with a law passed by the Vene- 
tian Republic, when, long ago, the rich merchant- 
princes of Venice were beginning to adorn their gon- 
dolas with such lavish license of luxury as offended 
the republican simplicity of their rulers. Since that 
time, only black gondolas are to be seen, but some of 
these are very luxurious. They are long and slender, 
with high, steel beaks, and many of them are exqui- 



TIIltOUGH THE OLD WOKLD. 421 

sitely carved. In the centre is a little covered house, 
of one tiny room, with glass windows and door, cush- 
ioned inside, often most luxuriously. It is something 
like a carriage-top set upon a boat. 

These black gondolas are the boats of romance and 
mystery. You think they ought to convey no freight 
but dark-eyed Venetian girls, or stately cavaliers, on 
their way to some deed of daring valor. It impresses 
you curiously to see them loaded with potatoes and 
cauliflowers. But your butcher employs a gondola, 
and your baker takes one to carry round his hot 
loaves. You go to the post-office for your letters by 
water, and you go to church in the same manner. 

The gondoliers are not the captivating, brigand- 
looking fellows you see in pictures. Those who are in 
the service of the rich wear elegant boating-costumes ; 
those of the large hotels, too, wear handsome sailor- 
suits of blue and white. But the ordinary gondolier, 
who hangs about the quays, is a shabby-looking fel- 
low. 

In no place have we ever seen such captivating 
variety of color as. in Venice. The waves that lap your 
black gondola are green, except when the sunset crim- 
sons or the moonlight silvers them. 

Some of the houses are white, with the pure white- 
ness of unstained marble ; some vivid yellow, and 
some pink ; and some which were white once have 
turned absolutely black with time and tide, — grand 



422 A SUMMER -JAUNT 

old palaces these last, dreaming there, above the waters 
at their base, of a past which all the arts have com- 
bined to make immortal. Browning spoke of Venice 
as a city — 

" Where the sea the street is " ; 

and it is the best description we know. Imagine, in- 
stead of Washington Street, or Tremont, or Broadway, 
or Fifth Avenue, a deep canal. Imagine houses, in front 
of which is not even a sidewalk, but to the doorsteps 
of which you step from your gondola, the first floors 
being often too damp for occupancy. 

Venice is the place of all the world for the boys who 
are fond of piscatory pleasure. Here they can fish by 
day or by night, without the trouble of leaving their 
home. They can throw open the door, or raise the 
window, sit in their easy-chair, run out their rod and 
line, and pull in the finny tribe at leisure. It was a 
novel scene as we watched the Spanish Minister's 
boys, across the canal from our hotel (over which we 
could almost reach to shake hands), engaged in this 
sport, as if fishing from a boat. 

The Grand Canal is the Broadway of Venice. It 
extends through the city in the form of an inverted S, 
and is about two miles in length. On it rise the hand- 
some buildings which were the homes and palaces of 
the wealthy in the flourishing days of the Republic. 
The architecture is peculiar, highly ornate ; Byzantine 
in its origin, but forming a school of its own. The 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 423 

buildings rise directly from the water, or have a nar- 
row footway in front of them. The Grand Canal varies 
from one hundred to two hundred feet in width. 

The Eialto crosses it about midway, and this was 
the centre of the city's commercial life, as the Piazza 
of St. Mark was of its political life. If you look 
for Shylock's face on the Rialto to-day, you will find 
him selling second-hand clothing, or frantically shout- 
ing over a small stock of vegetables. Antonio and 
Bassanio, and their friends, that courtly throng, where 
are they now? You may find Jessica; but Portia 
takes her degrees at Wellesley College this year. 
The Bialto, where great merchants met and talked of 
their argosies on many seas, is given up to petty traffic, 
and at one end of it slip-shod women sell lunches 
of smoking boiled turnip. The bridge rises sharply 
from the shores, and crosses the canal with a massive 
arch. Its sides are covered with small shops. 

A chapter on art in Venice would include the palaces 
and churches, the walls of which are covered by the 
works of this wonderful Venetian school, of which 
Paul "Veronese, and Titian, and Tintoretto formed the 
first rank. 

All these masters except Tintoretto can be studied 
in other European cities ; their works are well scat- 
tered through the galleries ; but Tintoretto can only 
be seen here. The amount of his work is prodigious. 
He covered whole walls of churches and halls. In 



424 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the Doge's Palace is a picture of his, eighty-eight 
feet long, by thirty-eight feet broad, — the largest 
canvas in the world. There are some eleven hundred 
figures in the painting ; it is a representation of Para- 
dise, and in completing the picture the artist con- 
sumed seven years of his precious time. His "Miracle 
of St. Mark" is one of the finest pictures we have 
ever seen. Titian's " Assumption," and the " Madonna," 
by Bellini, Titian's master, are pictures one lingers 
over lovingly and parts from sadly. But with- 
out going into details, let us enjoy this school as a 
whole. For warm, brilliant coloring, the power of 
using lights and shades, of expressing action, or por- 
traying the beauty of flesh, and the abundance of life, 
we have seen nothing like the works of these Venetian 
masters. We visit church after church to see fine 
pictures by Titian, Tintoretto, Paul Veronese, the 
Palmas, the Billinis, and a dozen others, until their 
glowing richness of color enters into our very souls, 
and we wonder again whence came this wonderful 
development of art, and why it passed away like the 
colors of a sunrise. 

There are about ninety churches in Venice, many of 
them strikingly beautiful, enriched by sculpture and 
painting ; in fact, nearly every church is a superb art- 
gallery. In the Church of Santa Maria dei Frari, 
Titian and Canova are buried, and magnificent monu- 
ments are erected to their memory. Titian lived to 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 425 

the age of ninety-nine, and was then carried off by 
plague. He was the pride and glory of the Venetians, 
and in the midst of that reign of terror, when the 
other victims of the plague were hurried to their 
nameless graves like dogs, they stopped to give their 
great painter a funeral. 

We visit again and again old St. Mark's Church, 
the most poetic of all churches, and the one dearest 
to poets and painters. It is a thousand years old, and 
herein repose the bones of St. Mark, brought from 
Alexandria in 828. The architecture of this cathedral 
is, in a great measure, Byzantine. It is celebrated 
for its historic associations, and the choiceness and 
profusion of its Oriental marble works, as well as for 
its carvings, paintings, and bronzes, and its mosaics of 
the tenth, and seven succeeding centuries, covering 
more than forty thousand square feet, almost an acre. 
There are more than five hundred columns inside and 
outside the church, many of them of the most costly 
description. The interior of this celebrated edifice 
disappointed at first sight, like most really great 
things. It looks dark* and clingy. There is a half- 
pagan air about it. It is not imposing like the great 
'Gothic cathedrals at Milan and Cologne. There is 
something fantastic in the abundant decoration. But 
it grows upon one at each successive visit, and the 
impression it leaves is permanent and abiding. The 
fagade is adorned with some very fine mosaics, and 



426 - A SUMMER JAUNT 

with statues and statuettes, carvings, and bas-reliefs, 
all very much admired. The winged lion of St. Mark 
is to be seen here, with paw upon a book, wide open, 
with this inscription in golden letters, "Pax tibi Marce 
Evangelista meus." Beside it are the four bronze 
horses, made famous by their varied travels and his- 
tory. They once belonged to the Arch of Nero at 
Rome. They were transported to Byzantium by Co.n- 
stantine, and taken from the Hippodrome at Constan- 
tinople by the Venetians when they conquered that 
city. Once on a time, the great Napoleon stole them, 
and carried them off to Paris, along with the lion. But 
after his fall, they were brought back to Venice in 
season to be apostrophized by Lord Byron : — 

" The spouseless Adriatic mourns her lord ; 
And annual marriage now no more renewed, 
The Bucentaur lies rotting unrestored, 
Neglected garment of her widowhood ! 
St. Mark yet sees his lion where he stood, 
Stand, but in mockery of his withered power, 
Over the proud place where an Emperor sued, 
And monarchs gazed and envied in the hour 
When Venice was a queen with an unequalled dower. 

Before St. Mark still glow his steeds of brass, 
Their gilded collars glittering in the sun ; 
Are they not bridled ? Venice, lost and won, 
Her thirteen hundred years of freedom done." 

From the Dole's Palace we crossed the "Bridge of 
Sighs" into the dungeon, wdiere none entered and 
hoped to see the sun again, and where many an inno- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 427 

cent man went to torture and death. This is a cel- 
ebrated bridge, made doubly so by the lines of Byron : 

" I stood in Venice on the Bridge of Sighs, 
A palace and a prison on each hand." 

In the old days the Patricians alone governed 
Venice — the common people had no voice in the gov- 
ernment. There were fifteen hundred Patricians ; 
from these three hundred Senators were chosen ; from 
the Senators a Doge and a Council of Ten were 
selected, and by secret ballot The Ten chose from their 
own number a Council of Three. All these were 
government spies. No man knew who the Council of 
Three were ; not even the Senate or the Doge. They 
sat upon all political offences ; and from their decision 
there was no appeal. The doomed man was marched 
over the Bridge of Sighs into the dungeon, to torture 
and lingering misery, or to sudden and mysterious 
death. 

The great Piazza of St. Mark is the gem of Venice. 
It is the heart of the city, and the centre of all its 
gayety and brightness, — an open space, some six hun- 
dred feet long and two hundred Wide, on three sides of 
which rise imposing buildings, forming apparently one 
marble palace, representing the architecture of the 
fourteenth, sixteenth, and eighteenth centuries. 

The fourth side is filled with the peculiar facade of 
the Church of St. Mark, bulbous with domes and rich 
with the colors of marbles and mosaics. A smaller 



428 A SUMMEK JAUNT 

piazza extends from one end of the larger to the quay 
on the lagoon. Near the water stand the two famous 
columns, brought to Venice in 1120, from the islands 
of the Greek Archipelago. One is surmounted by the 
Winged Lion, a work of the fifteenth century ; the 
other by a statue of St. Theodore, Patron to the 
Republic, previous to the year 828. 

Here the band phiys for half the summer nights, and 
hundreds of gondolas are drawn up near at hand, that 
their occupants may listen to the music. There are 
arcades under the three palace-fronts of the piazza, 
and these are filled with brilliant shops, devoted to 
jewelry, photographs, mosaics, and all maimer of 
antiquities, and the daintiest little cafes, fitted up like 
drawing-rooms. In front of them are scores of tables 
where the young folks are chatting and sipping their 
ices. In the evening the square is brilliantly lighted 
and filled by a gay throng of idlers, singing, chatting, 
and promenading to and fro, looking into the seductive 
show-windows, or smoking, and drinking their beer 
and coffee in the cafes. Here is the high Campanile, or 
bell-tower, from the top of which you have a view of 
the near city and the fiir-off Adriatic such as the world 
can hardly match for beauty. Here congregate, not 
alone the people, but the doves, the beautiful doves of 
Venice, which the Republic held in such honor that she 
decreed they should be fed forever, at two o'clock each 
day, at the expense of the city. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 429 

All Venice is out of doors as soon as the sun is set. 
You can fancy how like fairy-land it is — the music 
playing ; the graceful gondolas rocking on the water ; 
the myriads of gas-lights illuminating the piazza ; neat- 
handed servants bringing you tempting squares of 
colored ices ; cheerful salutations from gondola to gon- 
dola; and, round all, the mirth and music, the soft 
mystery of the summer night, with its air of balm, and 
the calm, far-off splendor of its shining stars. 

Our hotel was built for a palace. Most of the hotels 
of Venice are of a similar origin, and many business 
houses. Some fifty palaces are pointed out to us as 
we glide through the Grand Canal, including one where 
Byron lived ; also the home of Petrarch, Desdemona, 
Shy lock, and Lucretia Borgia. And as if the world of 
interior walls were not a -suSsteit+fi- field for painting 
and fresco, many facades of the palaces blush with the 
glowing colors of these lavish Venetian painters. Our 
guide shows us where was started the Bank of Venice, 
the first bank in the world ; and a building wherein 
was printed the first newspaper. 

Venice is not all bright with beautiful pictures — it 
has its dark districts, its abodes of squalor and poverty. 
We turn into a narrow canal and pass through crowded 
districts, where ragged men, women and children har- 
monize with the dingy and crumbling buildings. We 
stop to look into a church, and officious loungers offer 
their services to hold the gondola, to assist in alight- 



430 A SUMMER JAUNT 

ing, and help up the steps. They then run to raise the 
sacristan, and hold out their dirty caps for payment. 

Five centissimi (about one cent) wins their "grazie." 
Wherever we go these loungers follow, importuning 
for employment. If we look towards a church or a 
gondola, half a dozen ragamuffins offer suggestions and 
guidance. We are beset by guides, pedlers and beg- 
gars. 

But the event and pageant of our stay in Venice 
was the reception and fete given to King Humbert 
and Queen Marghcrita. From the heartiness and 
enthusiasm displayed on this occasion, we judged that 
the "effete despotisms" of Europe are not* quite 
played out. A new lease of life seems to be accorded 
to them, at least so far as the reign of the new king 
and queen of Italy is concerned. The booming cannon 
announced their arrival at the station ; and this was 
the signal for scores of church bells to swell the grand 
chorus of welcome. The Grand Canal was the route 
of the royal pair from the station to the palace on St. 
Mark's Square, followed, escorted, and surrounded 
by a fleet of six thousand gondolas. It was a gala- 
day, and the Venetian lads and lasses appeared at 
their best. The scene of the Grand Canal beggars 
description. The pencil of Titian might paint a pic- 
ture like it, with all its wealth of color and beauty of 
effect, but how poor and empty is a pen-picture of 
such a novel and indescribable spectacle. The enthu- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 431 

siasm of the populace was at fever heat. Flags, ban- 
ners, and tapestries were flying in the breeze and 
hanging from the windows and balconies of the palaces 
on either side of the water-paved street. Gondolas 
in countless numbers were flitting hither and thither, 
mostly on their way to the station ; others were seek- 
ing a place by the shore, to await the procession. 
There were large ones and small ones, some adorned 
with ribbons and streamers, others decked with flow- 
ers, velvets, and laces, and rich fringes sweeping the 
waters. The gondoliers were dressed in the nattiest 
of suits, embracing all the colors of the rainbow : 
their white shirts and pants, with their broad blue 
collars, and blue bands upon their white hats, and 
their blue and scarlet sashes dansjlins: from their 
waists gave a most fairy-like effect to the glowing 
picture. The large and most richly-decked gondola 
that bore the royal party was drawn by a steam-tug. 
As they passed along, it seemed as though they would 
be swamped by the flood of flowers that fell upon 
them from window and balcony on -every side. It 
was indeed "the Carnival of Venice," and well worth 
a journey over the ocean to see. 

In the evening, the Square of St. Mark was illu- 
minated and densely packed with the people eager to 
get a view of the king and queen. In answer to the 
incessant cheers and applause of the great crowd the 
royal pair occasionally appeared upon the balcony of 



432 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the palace, when it seemed as if the Venetians would 
go wild with their tumultuous shouts and cheers. 
Margherita waved her handkerchief, and the Kin": 
swung high in air his plumed hat, and it was midnight 
ere the great square was emptied of its loyal and 
demonstrative subjects. 

In going from Venice to Florence we pass through 
Padua, whose railway station was being dismantled of 
its profuse decorations in honor of the recent visit of 
the king and queen ; Ferrara, recently a populous 
city, but now almost deserted on account of its low, 
marshy, and unhealthy climate ; and Bologna, the city 
of sausages. 

We then cross the Apennines, rising about two 
thousand five hundred feet above the sea, and pass 
through a succession of forty-five tunnels, two or 
three of which are a mile long. 

It was an enchanting scene, as we descended the 
steep grade under the soft and magical light of the 
moon, showing us the clear outlines of the mountains, 
with the white houses and villas perched upon their 
sides, and the dark, deep gorges and chasms into 
which the light of moon and stars could not penetrate. 

Our visit to " Florence the Fair " was anticipated 
with no ordinary degree of pleasure ; for it is not 
only one" of the most beautiful cities in the world, but 
it was the cradle of the renaissance, and contains more 
art treasures than any other capital, unless it be Rome. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 433 

In the first place, its location is lovely, in the fertile 
valley of the Arno, surrounded by gently sloping 
hills, which are covered by vines and olive-trees, and 
in the distance a few sharp peaks, which seem to be 
where they are for the simple purpose of reflecting 
the morning and evening light and giving a finish to 
the charming landscape. The whole valley is highly 
cultivated, and the vineyards stretch, on climbing ter- 
races, to the very tops of the hills, all of which are 
crowned by imposing edifices, villas, churches, and 
monasteries. 

The Arno runs through the city from east to west, 
leaving about three-fourths of it on the north side, and 
the other fourth on the south. No commerce vexes 
it, and it is almost too rapid for pleasure-boats. 
It runs over artificial dams, at the upper and lower 
parts of the city, making graceful and musical falls. 
Some of r the bridges are lined on both sides with 
gay shops and most attractive show-windows. The 
quays give a delightful finish to the banks of the river, 
and form agreeable promenades, which are always 
thronged in pleasant weather. That on the north side 
continues directly along the river-bank, to a magnifi- 
cent park, the Cascine, which on sunny afternoons 
presents a gay scene of brilliant turnouts, and multi- 
tudes of men, women and children afoot. But this 
preface scarcely touches upon the charm of Florence 
to the stranger. Its beautiful setting, in a soft; but 



434 A SUMMER JAUNT 

varied Italian landscape, is only worthy of the gem. 
It contains much that is old and much that is new ; 
but the two harmonize happily together. 

It is a gay capital of the nineteenth century, as 
modern, vivacious, and enterprising, apparently, as 
Boston ; but its architecture illustrates its wonderful 
history, with every form that has been evolved for a 
thousand years. And it is such architecture as we see 
nowhere else. It is neither Grecian nor Gothic, but 
a peculiar form, evolved by a great race of men, in a 
great era, influenced by every form of art, yet daring 
to be original, seeking, finding, and creating. Besides, 
this architecture is the natural growth of surrounding 
circumstances, and so illustrates history. The Tus- 
cans of the Middle Ages were stormy, turbulent, 
quick-tempered, given to broils, to rebellions, to civil 
strife, to feuds that lasted for generations. 

The old palaces, half fortresses, which still are 
picturesque features in Florence, tell of these times. 
They are square, solid and lofty. The first stories 
are made of rough stones of great size, scarcely 
smoothed. The windows in these stories are small 
and heavily barred. The entrance is by a square 
court, which the building surrounds. The upper 
stories are somewhat lighter and more elegant, but 
still massive and unpretentious, the architect seeking 
effect only by grandeur and harmony of proportions. 
We noticed some twenty or thirty large palaces, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 435 

dating from the twelfth to the sixteenth century, 
which answer to this general description, and in the 
Pitti Palace, begun in the fifteenth and finished in the 
sixteenth century, these characteristics find their ex- 
treme expression. In this palace the first story is 
made of enormous blocks of stone, some of them 
fifteen or twenty feet long, and almost as rough as 
when they came from the quarry. There is no attempt 
to ornament the facade. It presents, in three stories, 
three masses, growing smaller as they rise. The 
effect of the whole is of massive and dignified grand- 
eur. It looks as imperishable as a mountain, and as 
immovable. Another specimen, more picturesque, 
because much older and ruder of construction, is the 
Palazzo Vecchio, or old Palace, in the Piazz& della 
Signoria. This palace was erected in the thirteenth 
century, though a long time afterwards it was altered 
and furnished with a lofty tower. It is as grim as a 
prison of the Middle Ages ; but it was formerly the 
seat of the government, and one of the palaces of the 
Medici, whose court was the centre of art and scholar- 
ship three or 'four hundred years ago. Speaking of 
the Medici, it is curious to observe how they pervade 
Florence. Palaces, bridges, churches and villas are 
their monuments, and most of the numerous statues 
bear their names. They began as merchants, and 
became princes ; and much of the fame of Florence, in 
the history of art, is due to their magnificent patron- 



436 A SUMMER JAUNT 

age. Art would have advanced without them; but 
they made Florence the centre, and gave it the lead 
in that fruitful period when every art flourished. 

The objects of special interest in Florence, are the 
Cathedral; the Baptistry; the Campanile, or bell- 
tower; the Uffizzi Gallery and Pitti Palace, with 
their museums and galleries of art ; the Boboli Gar- 
dens, with their rich foliage and shady walks ; the 
convents and churches, rich with works of art; and a 
large number of public and private edifices, which 
wealth has adorned and beautified. 

The churches of Florence are a feature of unfailing 
interest to the stranger, for the religious history of this 
city is as interesting as its political, and the churches 
drew all arts to their adornment. The Baptistry dates 
from the eighth century, some say the sixth. It was 
fashioned after the Pantheon at Eome. It is covered 
with black and white marble, grown brown and yellow 
with age, which elates from the thirteenth century. 
But what merits special attention are the magnifi- 
cent bronze gates, so celebrated in the history of 
the fine arts. One is by Pisano, and two by Ghiberti. 
Of the latter, Michael Angelo said they were " worthy 
to be the gates of Paradise." There are scores of 
scenes in Bible history wrought upon these doors. 
The figures in these pictures are smaller than we 
expected, and yet their execution is marvellous. 
Skill, patience, and genius are indubitably stamped 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 437 

upon the work ; but, after all, they seem but an 
inadequate result of a labor of forty years ; for that 
is the period Ghiberti was occupied upon them, ac- 
cording to Vasari. 

But the Cathedral, or II Duomo, as every one calls 
it, which was begun in the thirteenth century, and 
was over a hundred years in building, better illustrates 
the spirit of the Florentines. When determining to 
build it, they set about it with the avowed intention 
of making the most magnificent building in the 
world. It would be impossible to describe its perfect 
external graces. The dome, erected more than a hun- 
dred years before, by Brunelleschi, is the one from 
which Michael Angelo modelled that of St. Peter's ; 
and he is said to have looked back at II Duomo, as he 
left Florence for Rome, and cried out, "I may build a 
greater dome, but I can never make one more beauti- 
ful." It is Gothic, but Italian Gothic, entirely differ- 
ent from the Gothic cathedrals of Northern Europe. 
In size it is immense : five hundred and fifty feet long, 
and three hundred and forty feet broad across the 
transept, with an enormous dome, surpassing in height 
and circumference that of St. Peter's at Rome, which, 
with its lantern, rises to a height of three hundred and 
fifty-four feet. But inside, it is only impressive on 
account of its size. The exterior is covered with 
black and white marble, some of which has become 
brown and yellow, arranged in patterns, — squares, 



438 A SUMMER JAUNT 

diamonds, oblongs, &c. It is a great mosaic, impres- 
sive not only for its grand dimensions, but compelling 
admiration by the beauty of its finish. At one corner 
rises the Campanile, nearly three hundred feet high, 
of the same rich materials ; square, with projecting 
corners, and so elaborately decorated with statuary 
and carvings, that Hawthorne, when he saw it, could 
only think of a column of ivory, enriched by the 
patient toil of some devoted artist, and then by magic 
multiplied a hundred fold. How they did build 
churches in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries ! 
It must have been a very active time in the church. 
Here in Florence, besides the Cathedral, the Santa 
Croce, Maria Novella, Annunziata, Michele, San 
Marco, the Misericordia, and, perhaps, many more 
of less importance, were begun in the last part of the 
thirteenth century. The most of them were built on 
a magnificent scale, with marble fagades, some with 
marble cloisters, carved stalls, mosaics, statues, pic- 
tures, bas-reliefs, &c, &c. 

The church of Santa Croce is Italy's Westminster 
Abbey. Here repose the remains, and mausoleums of 
her mighty dead. Michael Angelo, Machiavelli, Gali- 
leo, Leonardo Bruno, and Alfieri, here sleep side by 
side. Here also is an honorary tomb to Dante, a 
superb marble monument, inscribed, "Honor to the 
greatest poet." But Dante himself sleeps at Eavenna : 

" Ungrateful Florence ! Dante sleeps afar ! n 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 439 

The people of Ravenna very properly refused to 
surrender to the tardy justice of the Florentines, the 
remains of the illustrious foreigner whose last sigh 
they had received ; and Florence could only show her 
sensibility to the genius of her greatest writer by 
the empty honors of a cenotaph. 

The Medicean Chapel is the great mausoleum in 
Florence. It was built to receive the Holy Sepulchre 
of our Lord, which the Emir Faccardino had prom- 
ised to get out of the hands of the Infidels ; but being 
deluded in this hope, Cosmo the Second destined it to 
receive the tombs of his family. It is as large as a 
church. The walls of the chapel are encrusted with 
the richest marble and precious stones, such as 
porphyry, verde-antique, jasper, agate, alabaster, 
mother-of-pearl, red coral, and lapis-lazuli. Its great 
dome glows with magnificent frescoes. The cenotaphs 
of the Medici family, which are ranged around the 
walls, sparkle with gems. Rubies, turquoises, and 
topazes are lavished upon them with "a profusion which 
recalls our youthful visions of Aladdin's palace . Before 
one of these statues reposes a crown that blazes with 
diamonds and emeralds enough to buy a ship-of-the- 
line. No less than $25,000,000 have been expended 
upon this costly toy. 

The Pitti Palace and Ufizzi Gallery, those world- 
renowned art centres, are connected by a long corri- 
dor, lined with tapestries that have held the art- 



440 A SUMMER JAUNT 

student's admiring gaze for centuries. The Pitti 
Palace contains five hundred paintings, all of great 
value, and many of them the finest works of the old 
masters. 

What can we say of the Ufizzi Gallery ? One wants 
a year to see, and a large volume even to hint at its 
treasures. The impressions borne away from these 
grand storehouses are too diverse and too numerous 
to be transmitted' by the pen. It contains thirteen 
hundred paintings. It is a universal depot, a sort of 
Louvre, containing paintings of all times and schools, 
bronzes, statues, sculptures, antique and modern 
terra-cottas, cabinets of gems, an Etruscan museum, 
artists' portraits painted by themselves, twenty-eight 
thousand original drawings, four thousand cameos and 
ivories, and eight} 7 thousand medals. 

Here, for the first time, the traveller from the north 
is made to feel the full power of art, for though Paris, 
Dresden, Munich, Vienna, Venice, and Bologna are 
rich in pictures, "yet in sculpture there is very little 
till you come to Florence. In the galleries and cor- 
ridors of the Ufizzi we comprehend, for the first time, 
what is meant by the antique, and see the Greek and 
Eoman mind as it expressed itself in bronze and 
marble. At first every one hurries to the Tribune, 
that celebrated room, unsurpassed by any in the 
world for the number and value of the gems it con- 
tains ; and probably no one ever opened the door of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 441 

that world-renowned apartment, for the first time, 
without a quickened movement of the heart. The 
floor is paved with precious marbles, and the ceiling 
studded with polished mother-of-pearl. It is lighted 
from above. Here are assembled sonic of the most 
remarkable works of art in the world. There are 
four statues, the Venus cle Medici, the Knife-Grinder, 
the Dancing Faun, a charming little Apollo of sixteen 
years, and a group, the Wrestlers. On the walls are 
hung five pictures by Raphael, three by Titian, one by 
Michael Angelo, four by Correggio, and several others 
by artists of inferior name. Of course the Venus de 
Medici, the "goddess living in stone," is the presiding 
divinity of the place. She is a slender young girl, 
only five feet high, with a small delicate head, not a 
goddess, like the Venus de Milo, in the Louvre, 
unconscious alike of her beauty and her nakedness — 
into whose bosom no ray of human passion or human 
weakness has ever darted — but a lovely woman who 
knows her power and enjoys her triumphs. She is, 
perhaps, a copy of that Venus of Cnidus, of which 
Lucian relates an interesting story ; you imagine, 
while looking at her, the youth's kisses pressed on the 
marble lips, and the exclamations of Charicles, who, 
on seeing it, declared Mars to \>g the most fortunate 
of gods. On each side of the Venus cle Medici hangs 
a Veiius by Titian, the size of life, and painted in 
that rich and gorgeous style of coloring which has 
been so often and vainly attempted since his time. 



442 A SUMMER JAUNT 

The Group of Niobe has, very properly, a room 
to itself, for a work of such great excellence and 
such depth of feeling should be left to address the 
heart, unmixed with inferior or even different matter. 
This group has attracted great attention, and one 
can see that the sculptor fully believed in the legend 
it commemorates. It seems a most touching domestic 
tragedy. The grief of Niobe is feminine, deep and 
overwhelming, but not fierce and stru<™din2f. The 

©' O© © 

dying youth is one of the most admirable figures in 
the world, full of expression without distortion, a 
serene image of death, at once mournful and soothing. 
In the " Hall of the Old Masters " are pictures that 
blossomed out of the very dawn of art, — Giottos, 
and Cimabues, and Fra Angelicos. These last need 
not fear comparison even with the latter works of the 
great days when Titian and Raphael painted. Always 
Fra Angelicos stand alone. Fra Angelico was a pious 
monk — a truly believing soul — who never com- 
menced a picture without a prayer. He lived an 
absolutely holy life ; and the sweet reverence of his 
saints, the exquisite purity of his Madonnas, almost 
make you feel that, in answer to his prayers, blessed 
souls must have kept him company, and sat to him for 
their portraits. There is one picture of his at the 
Academy of Fine Arts in Florence — "The Last 
Judgment " — in which, seated on his throne of clouds, 
the Lord judges the world. The Madonna, in a robe 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 443 

of stars, sits below him, and looks up with adoration 
in her eyes, and troops of shining saints come singing 
into glory. No other painter has given such a glimpse 
of heavenly joy. Here in Florence are some of the 
loveliest of Raphael's Madonnas ; here are the ten- 
derly painted holy families of Andrea del Sarto ; 
here are wonderful painted Venuses of Titian, and 
standing below them, the marble Venus de Medici, as 
if she had strayed out of some gallery of statues to 
come here and assert the majesty of sculpture. 

The American colony in Florence is quite a large 
one. Its basis is artistic, of course, but it includes 
people of various conditions, attracted here by the 
opportunities for aesthetic culture, by the agreeable 
climate, and by the simple economic fact that the cul- 
tivated resident gets more for his money here than 
elsewhere. 

The list of American sculptors has been consider- 
able for many years, and is now increasing. Quite a 
number of them have here made world-wide reputa- 
tions. Thomas Ball, Thomas R. Gould, Launt Thomp- 
son, and J. A. Jackson are doing good work, credit- 
able to their countrymen and their own fame. 

Mr. Powers, who was long the Nestor of American 
sculptors in Florence, still lives in the many works 
of his studio, where he is succeded by two sons, 
Lono'worth and Preston. Lonjnvorth is the elder of 
the two brothers, but he has only recently turned his 



444 A SUMMER JAUNT 

attention to modelling. Preston is well advanced 
towards his father's position. There are frequent 
calls for the elder Powers's works, and the great 
studio is quite an interesting museum of the heads or 
full-length statues of distinguished Americans. Mrs. 
Powers seems to be happily situated, in her hand- 
some villa outside the Porta Eomana. She has her 
married children, two sons and a daughter, settled 
around her. Some of our party took this opportunity 
to renew old acquaintanceship with the Powers family. 
The cordiality of their reception, the revival of old and 
by-gone memories, the pleasant chat upon art and social 
life in Florence, is one of the most delightful recollec- 
tions of that beautiful city. Their long absence 
abroad has not dimmed their patriotism, or made them 
less American in their feelings and sympathies. 

The Protestant Cemetery is a place beautiful for the 
living or the dead. It is situated on the outer edge 
of Florence, where the skylark soars and sings, and 
the cypress trees grow, and the roses cluster more 
thickly than anywhere else, and fill the air with their 
fragrance. Here, too, sleep some illustrious names. 
Theodore Parker was buried here, and Walter Savage 
Landor, Arthur Hugh Clough, Elizabeth Barrett 
Browning, and many other well-known names. We 
plucked a flower from Mrs. Browning's grave, which 
we shall keep and cherish as a treasure. The distant 
hills look down on these graves ; the blue Italian sky 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 445 

arches them, — statelier dome than even Michael 
Angelo could build ; the birds are the choir, whose 
anthems reach to heaven ; and the winds blow by their 
gales of fragrance, rifled from the flowers that bloom 
forever. 

A little way off, lies the city, — the fair flowei, 
which one loves more and more the more one becomes 
familiar with her charm. The Arno sparkles in sun- 
shine or glooms in shadow ; the shops glitter with 
their dazzling temptations ; the churches open theii 
quiet doors, and offer you pictures and music, and 
peace wherein to pray ; the galleries are rich with the 
world's great wonders of art ; and the whole makes 
up this Florence, this Tuscan lily, which Italy wears 
like a blossom upon her bosom. 

But we must leave Florence, however much we 
might wish to dwell longer upon its beauties and 
pleasures. We say good-by to the city of Dante 
and Petrarch, the smiling Arno, the region of Italian 
poetry, the studios of the artists, and speed our way 
to the Eternal City. 



446 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER XT. 

THE FIRST SECTION — ITALY CONTINUED. 

Rome — St. Peter's — The Arch of Constantine — The Arch of Titus 

— The Colosseum — The Ancient Gladiatorial Contests — The 
Capitol — The Forum — The Pantheon — The Baths of Cara- 
calla — The Appian Way — The Tomb of Cecilia Metella — The 
Footsteps of St. Paul — The Mamertine Prison — St. Paul's 
"Hired House"— The Basilica of St. Paul's Beyond the Walls 

— The Holy Staircase — The Vatican and its Treasures — The 
Sistine Chapel — Raphael's " Transfiguration " — The Apollo 
Belvidere — The Laocoon — The Catacombs — A Visit to the 
Pope — The Church of St. Clement — Recent Excavations — 
The Roman Aqueducts — The Column of Trajan — The Castle 
of St. Angelo — Beatrice Cenci — Presentation to Siguor Barat- 
toni. 

" Oh, Rome ! my country ! city of the soul !" 

" The Niobe of nations ! there she stands 
Childless and crownless, in her voiceless woe, 
An empty urn within her withered hands, 
Whose holy dust was scattered long ago." 

No one can approach the "Eternal City," be he 
antiquarian, artist, o*r student of history, without ex- 
periencing a thrill in every fibre of his being. Rever- 
ence for scenes of exalted deeds is a noble instinct 
implanted in us for noble ends. It is inarticulate 
adoration addressed not more to the understanding 
than to the heart. Whatever withdraws us from the 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 447 

power of the senses ; whatever makes the past, the 
distant, or the future predominate over the present, 
advances us in the dignity of thinking beings. 

It was a burning afternoon of an August day that 
we approached Rome, and it was at a curve in the rail- 
road, when miles away, the dome of St. Peter's stood 
out in silhouette against the glowing sunset sky. We 
entered the city by the Central Railway Station, situ- 
ated on the Esquiline Hill. The approach is through 
an aperture made in the wall of fortification, built by 
Aurelian, at a spot about midway between the gates 
called Porta Maggiore and Porta San Lorenzo. 

We were beset at the station by as hungry a set of 
loafers and beggars as ever waylaid a party of tourists. 
Our valises and shawl-straps were seized nolens volens, 
and we were, for a time, in a state of bewilderment, 
not knowing whether we were beset by station-agents 
and hotel-porters or a fierce band of Italian brigands. 
They were requested by some, with politeness, and 
ordered by others, with more than emphatic language, 
to let the luggage alone. Not understanding Yankee 

CO o © 

dialect, nor heeding Yankee desires, they coolly bore' 
our trappings to the carriages outside the station, and 
then began to clamor for their fees. Most of us threw 
a few pennies to the vagabonds, but one determined 
he would not be imposed upon that way, and refused 
a farthing to the fellow who had persistently disobeyed 
his order to "put my baggage down, and let it alone." 



448 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Thereupon he carried his case to the Supreme Court — 
our conductor, — who, being himself a Roman, decided 
that his countryman was entitled to his reward for dis- 
obeying the orders of the owner of the luggage. But 
our brave knight of the law eloquently pleaded his 
own case, perched aloft in air on the topmost seat of 
the coach, to an admiring concourse of American fel- 
low-citizens, and won a signal victory, thus early, over 
the persistent and redoubtable Roman. Released from 
the superserviceable loafers, we drove to the Hotel 
d'Allemagne, near the Piazza di Spagna, at the base of 
the Pincian Hill. 

We arrived in Rome Saturday evening. After 
breakfast, on Sunday morning, where should we go 
but follow the surging tide across the Tiber, past the 
Castle of St. Angelo, to St. Peter's, the grandest 
temple ever reared by human hands ? The impressions 
received by our party, on our first visit, were not 
materially different from those recorded by other in- 
telligent travellers. The approach to the building is 
of the most magnificent character. On either hand 
semicircular porticos, supported by four rows of 
columns, enclose space enough between the two inner 
rows for the passage of two carriages abreast. The 
galleries and porticos, together, are not unlike, in 
form, to sickles, of which the galleries make the 
handles. All these structures are of the most colossal 
size. The porticos are sixty-four feet high, and the holy 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 449 

army of saints which crown the entablature — nearly 
two hundred in number — are eleven feet high. But 
so harmonious are the proportions that, when seen 
from the centre of the piazza, the whole effect is light, 
airy, and graceful. The galleries and porticos seem 
like all-embracing arms of invitation extended by the 
church to the whole Christian world, summoning them 
to come and worship under the roof of this most ma- 
jestic of temples. Standing in this grand court, with 
the majestic colonnades sweeping around ; the fountains 
on either side sending up their showers of silver spray ; 
the mighty Egyptian obelisk piercing the sky ; and, 
beyond, the great front and dome of the Cathedral, 
we confessed our unmingled admiration. It recalled 
to our mind the grandeur of ancient Rome, and, mighty 
as her edifices must have been, we doubt if there were 
many views more imposing than this. 

The square ascends towards the church, and a mag^ 
nificent flight of steps, the whole width of the facade, 
leads up to the doors. The facade itself is enormous 
in its proportions ; the figures will give an idea of it. 
It is three hundred and seventy-nine feet long, and 
one hundred and fifty-two feet high, surmounted by a 
balustrade and colossal statues of the Saviour and the 
Apostles. The portico is. two hundred and thirty-six 
feet long, forty-two wide, sixty-eight high, magnifi- 
cently decorated with stucco ; with equestrian statues 
of Charlemagne and Constantine in niches at the end. 



450 A SUMMER JAUNT 

From the portico, we push aside the heavy leathern 
curtain, and stand in the great nave. We need not 
describe our feelings as we gazed upon this miracle ; 
but will speak of its dimensions, and let the reader 
fancy them. Before us was a marble plain over six 
hundred feet long, and under the cross four hundred 
and seventeen feet wide ! One hundred and fifty feet 
above, sprang a glorious arch, dazzling with inlaid gold, 
and in the centre of the cross there were four hundred 
feet of air between us and the top of the dome. The 
sunbeam stealing through the lofty window at one end 
of the transept, made a bar of light on the blue air, 
hazy with incense, nearly an eighth of a mile long, 
before it fell on the mosaics and gilded shrines of the 
other extremity. The grand cupola alone, including 
the lantern and cross, is two hundred and eighty-five 
feet high, or sixty-five feet higher than the Bunker 
Hill Monument; and the four immense pillars, on 
which it rests, are each one hundred and thirty-seven 
feet in circumference ! We were as much surprised 
at the freshness of the interior, as we have been at 
the dinginess of other churches, notably St. Mark's at 
Venice. The whole surface taken in by the eye, shines 
with marble and gilding. Everything is in perfect 
order, as if just made. But the first view gives no 
idea of the size of the building. Everything is on an 
immense scale. The marble cherubs, in high relief on 
the columns, are six feet long. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 451 

A constellation of lamps burning over the tomb of 
St. Peter, just beneath the high altar, in the centre of 
the cross, helps the mind to form some conception of 
the immense size of the building. They shine like 
stars in a distant firmament. People moving about in 
the parts, are dwarfed to pigmies. But even after 
walking about it, and returning to it again and again, 
the dimensions remain a mystery. It covers nearly 
five acres of land. Nothing obstructs the full length 
of the nave but the high altar in the centre where 
the transept crosses, covered by the baldachino, a highly 
ornate canopy, which rests upon four prodigious 
twisted pillars of bronze and gilt. This canopy, 
which is ninety-five feet high, has been much de- 
nounced by purists in architecture ; but it seems to be 
in keeping with the whole building, which is magnifi- 
cent and grandiose in the extreme. The impression 
one gets after repeated visits is, that somebody with 
unlimited means said to his architects and workmen : 
[- Let us make the most gorgeous building that was 
ever known among men." And the idea was carried 
out. This is undoubtedly the most magnificent temple 
ever built by man, though it is not the most beautiful 
or impressive. It excites wonder and admiration ; 
but does not inspire awe like one of those grand 
Gothic cathedrals, as York or Cologne. 

On further examination, we find that St. Peter's is 
not one church only, but many churches assembled 



452 A SUMMER JAUNT 

together, still preserving unity. Every part harmon- 
izes, from the pavement, a mosaic of marble, to the 
grandly swelling dome. Even the magnificent monu- 
ments in the aisles and chapels, many of them in 
exceedingly bad taste, do not jar in the grand chorus 
of effects produced to the eye. Some object that St. 
Peter's does not give an idea of a religious temple 
(for it is a church, a museum, a gallery of art, and a 
mausoleum) ; that its enormous richness does not lead 
the soul upward to things spiritual, but rather turns 
it to thoughts of earthly greatness. The criticism 
may be just; but it cannot be denied that it is the 
appropriate and sumptuous headquarters of that great 
ecclesiastic establisment, which, at the highest tide of 
its grandeur and power, controlled the destiny of 
empires. 

We were specially fortunate in having Shakespeare 
Wood, the eminent English archaeologist, as our guide 
in Home ; for though our conductor, Signor Barattoni, 
was a Roman " to the manner born," yet Mr. Wood, 
who has made Roman archeology a specialty for nearly 
thirty years, has no equal in that field of sight and 
study ; and the few days we were under his pilotage, 
were worth more to us in gaining reliable information 
upon Roman history, architecture, painting, sculpture, 
and ruins of the Eternal City, than months of time 
spent in ordinary sight-seeing. In a city whose his- 
tory joins so closely upon mythological story and 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 453 

legend, we found Mr. Wood's •" scientific process " of 
great value in untangling the mazy knot of fable, 
tradition, and reliable historical data ; and in sifting 
out the truth and facts having an historical basis. 

What Mr. Wood, with his clear, scientific mind, 
stamped as authentic, we felt safe in accepting as a 
probable truth, Mr. Wood is high authority in 
Eoman archeology, and the non-scientific mind feels 
that where there is doubt or uncertainty, his conclu- 
sions rest upon a preponderating weight of evidence. 

His criticisms upon art matters were listened to with 
great interest, as from a connoisseur, and the fruit of 
large experience and wide information. He was intro- 
duced, and dined with us Sabbath evening, and, in his 
after-dinner remarks, he gave us a pretty and sensible 
speech of welcome. He told us we were there in 
the season of "Roman fever." For illustration, he 
drew from "The Pilgrim's Progress," saying, "The 
lion is here, but he is chained." "If we get in 
his way, if we lie down at his side, we shall be in 
his jaws ere we are aware of it." He cautioned all 
to take special care of themselves ; not to drink 
much cold water, and no brandy, but take pure 
wines in their stead (we were a temperance party, 
and wines and strong drink, for the most part, were 
given a wide berth) , and to keep in-doors in the mid- 
dle of the clay. "From the night air there is noth- 
ing to fear." This last statement was applauded by 



454 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the "paired-off couples-," who had feared their even- 
ing strolls would have to be given up while in Rome ; 
and moreover, they could see the Colosseum by moon- 
light, and this is an experience few visitors to Rome 
omit. 

In the small space allotted us, we quite despair of 
giving the reader anything like a complete picture of 
the manifold scenes that attract the stranger to Rome, 
The theme is so vast, the details so diverse, that we 
are baffled upon what subjects to write, and where to 
begin. There are seven basilicas in Rome, and over 
three hundred churches, and it is a common saying 
that the Pope might say mass every day in the year in 
a different church. And each of these churches might 
be regarded as a museum and art gallery, adorned 
with cJief-cVceuvres of the old masters, where hours 
and hours might be pleasantly passed. 

Our first visit was to see the Triumphal Arches of 
Constantine and Titus. These arches were monuments 
to the vanity of living emperors and generals, and 
equally available as expressions of gratitude and re- 
spect, reared to the memory of those who had so lived 
as to be regretted after death. In their form and 
structure, the resources both of architecture and 
sculpture were called into exercise. The Arch of 
Constantine is the most imposing and the best pre- 
served of these structures. When this was reared, 
the pernicious habit had already begun of piecing 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 455 

out new buildings with patches torn from old ones, 
and the fragments of earlier works are wrought into 
this. Many of its sculptures and bas-reliefs are known 
to have been those which were carved to honor the 
Emperor Trajan, who reigned two centuries before 
Constantine. It was erected in honor of the great 
victory over Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, now 
called the Ponte Molle, situated about two miles 
beyond the Porta del Popolo. Seen from a short dis- 
tance, and taken as a whole, it presents the appear- 
ance of a grand work of art and architecture com- 
bined ; but examined in detail, it is found to be a 
remarkable piece of architectural patchwork. The 
inscriptions relate to Constantine ; but the greater 
part of the sculptures belong to the time of Trajan, 
and illustrate events in his reign ; some also belong to 
an intervening period, possibly to the time of the 
Gordians. 

The Arch of Titus is the most graceful in form 
of all the Roman arches. The great interest which 
attaches to it arises from the representations which its 
bas-reliefs contain. On the inside of the arch are 
represented two scenes from the triumphal entry of 
Titus, after the war. On one side, Titus in his 
triumphal chariot, drawn by four horses, preceded by 
a personification of Rome, and surrounded by senators, 
and lictors carrying the fasces. On the other, soldiers 
bearing the chief trophies brought from Jerusalem, 



456 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the golden table, the seven-branch candlestick, and 
the silver trumpet of the Jubilee. The vault of the 
arch is ornamented with rosettes and sunk panels, and, 
in the centre, is a representation of the apotheosis of 
Titus. The Jews, to this day, it is said, never pass 
under this arch; avoiding the sight of this mournful 
record of the downfall of their country and the dese- 
cration of their religion. 

Adjacent to these arches is that grandest ruin in all 
the world, the Flavian Amphitheatre, commonly called 
the Colosseum, a name it received from the venerable 
T>ccle in the eighth century, from its enormous propor- 
tions, which make it a Colossus among buildings. It 
was called the Flavian Amphitheatre from the three 
Emperors of the Flavian family, Vespasian, Titus, and 
Domitian. It was founded by Vespasian, about the 
year 72, on the site of the ornamental lake in Nero's 
garden. In the year 80, Titus dedicated it with games 
which lasted a hundred days, and during which nine 
thousand wild animals were slain on s the arena ; and it 
was completed by Domitian, who added the shields 
and ornaments which surmounted the cornice. Accord- 
ing to the traditions of the Church, thirty thousand 
Jewish prisoners of war were employed in building it ; 
and an inscription discovered in the Catacomb of St. 
Agnes, now in the crypt of the Church of Sta. Martina, 
has led to the supposition that the architect was a cer- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 457 

tain Gaudentius, who became a Christian and himself 
suffered martyrdom on the arena. 

The Colosseum is the one great central figure in all 
imaginations of ancient Rome, and, in fact, one that 
always rose in fancy's pictures when we wondered if 
we should ever visit the old city. 

That sturdy, enduring monument of the past, that 
has witnessed the triumphs and excesses of successive 
tyrants, echoed to the shouts of Rome's populace in 
her palmiest clays ; whose arena has been soaked with 
the blood of barbarian gladiators and Christian mar- 
tyrs ; whose walls have withstood the assaults of van- 
dal conquerors, the inexorable tooth of time, and, 
more than all these, the vandal-like assaults of modern 
Romans themselves ! It has been degraded to be a 
fortress, factory, and stone quarry, and plundered by 
ancient vandals, who wrenched off its marble sheathing 
for the metal bolts in the wall, and by modern ctese- 
crators who carried away its solid blocks of stone to 
build four palaces. Despite all the injury wrought by 
ancient spoiler and modern plunderer, it is still impres- 
sive from the symmetry and grandeur of its propor- 
tions ; while the interior arrangements, which can be 
plainly traced, for the accommodation of more than 
eighty thousand spectators, were so perfect as to elicit 
to-day the admiration of modern architects. The 
shape of the Colosseum, a grand ellipse, is familiar to 
all. Between the arches are, or were, columns through- 



458 A SUMMER JAUNT 

out the whole circumference, and each successive ring 
or tier of arches and columns was of a different order 
of architecture ; the lowest, Doric ; the next, Ionic ; 
the third, Corinthian ; and the fourth, of the Attic style 
of architecture. The whole structure covered about six 
acres. Its height is about one hundred and sixty feet. 
The space occupied by the arena is two hundred and 
eighty-seven feet long by one hundred and seventy- 
seven in width ; and to accomplish its circumference, 
you must walk one-third of a mile. No one who is at 
all familiar with the bloody scenes enacted on this 
spot, so famous in the world's history, can stand here 
for the first time without a thrill of emotion. Imag- 
ination at once recreates the vast circle ; and tier on 
tier of galleries rise above the visitor ; great swelling 
waves of spectators, all with their eyes of eager antici- 
pation. You can almost imagine you hear the hum 
and murmur of the vast throng in the marble balconies 
that ring in the bloody battle-ground ; the muffled 
growls of the wild beasts behind their iron gratings in 
the lower wall of the arena, becoming more distinct in 
the hush of expectation that succeeds, as the specta- 
tors lean forward in breathless interest when the gladi- 
ators cautiously approach each other to cross weapons 
in deadly combat. 

Do not suppose that only two or three gladiators or 
half a dozen wild beasts were let loose at once in the 
amphitheatre. Had this been all, a far smaller space 



i 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 459 

would have sufficed. This vast area was the result of 
a bloody appetite that grew upon what it fed, and a 
thousand savage beasts a clay have fallen within its 
dreadful circle ; gladiators by hundreds at a time have 
closed in deadly contest with each other, and piled the 
ground with scores of slaughtered combatants. Ele- 
phants fought with lions, tigers with bears, bulls Avith 
leopards ; and ostriches, stags, boars, giraffes, and even 
cranes and pigmies were brought into the arena. Here 
Hadrian celebrated his birth-day by the slaughter of a 
hundred lions and as many lionesses, beside eight hun- 
dred other wild beasts ; and the arena was so arranged, 
as has been recorded and since been proved by recent 
excavations, that it could be flooded with water and 
the spectators treated to a representation of a sea-fight, 
the combatants being gladiators in galleys that met 
upon the water and engaged in deadly contest. The 
Emperor Probus had, about A. D. 280, a grand wild- 
beast slaughter here, and at another time he had in the 
ring six hundred gladiators and seven hundred wild 
beasts. At length Constantine, in 330, made a law 
prohibiting gladiatorial combats ; but the people were 
too fond of the bloody spectacle to give it lip. 
Seventy years after, however, when Christianity was 
four centuries old, and the brutal gladiatorial com- 
bat was in full progress, a Christian monk leaped 
from the podium into the arena, and rushing amid the 
combatants entreated them with prayers to separate. 



460 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Enraged at the interruption, the Praetor Alybius bade 
the gladiators kill the intruder, and the monk Tele- 
machus paid the penalty of his life for this noble 
endeavor ; but it was a successful one, for the Emperor 
Honorius abolished gladiatorial combats from that time ; 
and Telemaehus, who was hewn down by gladiators, 
marked with his death the day of the last gladiatorial 
combat in the Flavian Amphitheatre. 

No language contains a word of more expression 
and significance than the Roman Capitol, nor is there 
a spot on earth more full of historical interest.. It 
was at once a fortress and a temple ; the head of the 
Roman State and the shrine of their religion. Ascend- 
ing the tower we are undoubtedly presented with an 
area more densely crowded with the footprints of his- 
tory, from the time Eneas landed to that of Augustus, 
from that to the present day, than from any other point 
on the face of the earth. From that, a scene of varied and 
magnificent beauty unfolds itself to the eye, in which 
the natural features, grand and striking as they are, 
are lost in that magic charm of association, which 
gives a richer verdure to the plain, a deeper purple to 
the hills, a finer blue to the sky, and bathes every 
roof in spiritual light. The history and literature of 
Rome are lying at our feet, and the living landscape 
is a page on which is written one-half of all that we 
have learned at school and at college. Here lies the 
city, -r- once of one, two, three, some say five millions 






THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 461 

of inhabitants, — in the centre of this vast plain, one 
city, one plain, surrounded on the outskirts by the 
Apennines, Soracte, and the Mediterranean. From 
fifteen to twenty miles in every direction, the early 
inhabitants could detect the approach of an enemy, 
in the infant days of the republic, an advantage to 
which may have been owing many a deliverance and 
many a triumph ; a natural position of strength, to 
which she must have been indebted /or her prosperity, 
almost as much as to her statesmen and her generals. 
But first, as you look off from the tower of the Capi- 
tol, the eye falls upon the very objects directly under 
you, for which you have been waiting with a fever of 
impatience ; the time-worn vestiges, the sublime yet 
melancholy ruins of the ancient city. At your feet 
you behold the Forum, that name which can never be 
uttered without emotion ; the remaining columns of 
the Temple of Jupiter Tonans ; the Triumphal Arch of 
Septimius Severus, almost perfect in its form, and 
bearing to-day the inscription placed upon it two 
thousand years ago ; the temple of the virtuous 
Antonine and his wife, the dissolute Faustina; the 
huge brick arches of the Temple of Peace ; and, far- 
ther on in the same direction of the Sacred Way, 
the Arch of Titus, and the Colosseum. On the right 
of that, and a little nearer, on the summit of the 
Palatine, — a low swell of ground, — you see the 
remains of the Palace of the Caesars ; then the Aven- 



462 A SUMMER JAUNT 

tine, crowned with convents and churches ; the Tiber 
flowing below ; and, east of that, the immense remains 
of the Baths of Caracalla. Then turning south, your 
eye surveys the graceful dome of the Pantheon, and the 
magnificent masses of the unrivalled Vatican. These, 
all within the walls of Rome. Then without, you con- 
template the wide-spreading Campagna ; the site of 
Alba Longa, on the Alban Hills ; the Sabine Hills ; 
the long ranges of. the Apennines, with Tusculum and 
Tiber, and the ruins of Cicero's and Horace's villas 
on their slopes, till the scene is shut in by Monte 
Mario, a few miles without the gates, and the lofty 
walls of St. Peter's and the Janiculum. This brief 
survey of the city from this lofty tower of observa- 
tion, with your recollections in your head and your 
maps before you, is itself worth a visit to Europe. 
Indeed, to pass a morning there, simply studying the 
relations in respect to position and distance of places 
so remarkable in Roman history and poetry, is the 
best commentary possible upon all you have read or 
remember, and leaves impressions on the mind that 
can never be effaced ; sheds the light of day upon the 
youthful studies of the Viri Romse, Virgil, Horace, 
Livy ; converts obscurity and fable into probability 
and substantial truth. 

The Capitol Hill is the highest point in Rome, and 
crowned by some extremely ugly edifices, by Michael 
Angelo, but adorned by the finest equestrian statue in 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 463 

the world, that of Marcus Aurelius, as it was once by 
the most magnificent citadel and temple in the world, 
covering many acres. This hill retains something of 
its ancient elevation, though by the crumbling away 
of the summit and the filling up at the base, one may 
easily conjecture it to have lost a portion of its origi- 
nal height. On the eastern side is the Tarpeian Rock, 
still a rock, and still, notwithstanding all its losses 
and the filling up below, retaining sufficient height to 
serve its former purpose of execution, by pitching 
criminals from its highest point. The far-famed Pala- 
tine, where the cottage of Romulus long stood, and, 
in marvellous contrast with it, Nero's golden house 
afterwards, and which the Emperor Vespasian demol- 
ished, as a dwelling too sumptuous for any mortal, 
has lost nearly all of its original elevation, save the 
ruins by which its covered. At the foot of the Pala- 
tine, extending from the Capitol toward the Colos- 
seum, is the Roman Forum, a rectangle, as the anti- 
quarians tell us, of more than a thousand feet in 
length by about eight hundred in breadth. On the 
four sides of this small square once stood a crowd of 
the noblest public edifices of Rome. Temples, basili- 
cas, comitise, curiae, all adorned in the sumptuous 
manner by columns, flights of steps, statues of marble 
and bronze, and by rostra or pulpits, from which the 
orators harangued the people on all occasions of great 
political excitement. Of this thrice-celebrated place 



464 A SUMMER JAUNT 

scarce a vestige now remains. A portico of six or 
eight columns of the Temple of Concord, the Arch of 
Septimius Severus, three pillars of a temple of Jupi- 
ter, a portico of the Temple of Antoninus and Faus- 
tina ; these are all that now serve to mark the spot 
where, so long, once dwelt the seat of that vast power, 
at the name of which the earth trembled. Nowhere 
else in Rome does one experience the sensations that 
crowd upon the mind as he paces to and fro along the 
site of the Forum, with the hill of the Capitol towering 
above him ; the remains of the Palace of * the Cassars 
clothing the Palatine on one side, and, in front, the 
monarch of ruin, the Flavian Amphitheatre, character- 
istic funeral monuments all, of the greatest of earthly 
empires. 

The Pantheon, — built by Agrippa, and presented 
by him to Augustus, — happily, like the Colosseum, 
stands open and free to all. This beautiful object, so 
well preserved as to make one doubt whether it be a 
church of the Middle Ages, or a building twelve or 
fifteen hundred years older, is in the heart of the 
modern town, covering one side of a small square. 
Though time seems hardly to have made any impres- 
sion upon it, yet even a careless inspection shows you 
that fires as of a furnace have raged around and over 
it, burning away all the projecting members of the 
cornice of the main building and of the portico, and 
eating their way into the very substance of the walls. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 465 

Walls less substantial than those of the Pantheon, 
some twenty feet thick, could hardly have stood under 
the fiery deluge of three days' duration, in the time of 
Nero, and its frequent repetition since, especially in 
the clays of the Gothic invasions, and from that day 
to this. The building looks as if it had suffered ; but, 
at the same time, as if it could not be destroyed 
by any power less than that of an earthquake. It is 
interesting beyond any other building in Rome, for 
this especially; that though older than the Colosseum, 
and than almost any other building whose fragments 
are scattered around, it is itself not a ruin, but a 
structure almost untouched by time, which looks, in 
the nineteenth century, very much as it did in the 
first, both without and within. Emperors, consuls, 
and scholars, and the crowds of Rome entered it 
then, or passed it by in admiring delight ; our eyes of 
to-day rest upon the same forms, and with the same 
delight. True, the polished marbles that sheathed all 
the exterior, have been stripped bare to the brick. 
The plates of brass and of silver that once sheeted 
the dome and the portico, have been wrenched from 
their fastenings, and removed to adorn other fabrics ; 
the thousand statues of brass which decorated the vast 
'circumference of the cornice, the roof and beams of 
brass from the portico, the brazen gates of entrance, 
these also carried away by a Christian pope from this 
nagan temple, now decorate St. Peter's in that absurd 



466 



A SUMMER JAUNT 



mountain of brass, the baldachino, and defend the 
Castle of St. Angelo in their batteries of brazen can- 
non. These mere ornaments to the general form of 
the edifice, are, by the robberies of the emperors, 
Goths, and popes, all gone ; and the morning and 
evening sun of Rome no longer strikes upon a scene 
of architectural pomp, which must, we might think, 
have not only dazzled but awed into reverence the 
barbarians who, for the first time, approached in order 
to dismantle it. The noble swell of the dome, with 
its circular openings at the top (its only light) ; with 
its bold and beautiful graduated .panelling, stripped, 
indeed, of its bronze ; the running entablature below ; 
the niches for the statues of the twelve greater gods, 
filled now instead with the forms of venerable saints, 
and even the original mosaic pavement of the floor ; 
all this remains to show us almost the only existing 
Roman interior ; certainly the only one of such magni- 
ficence as to have fastened upon it the admiration of 
those early centuries, as it does ours to-day. Victor 
Emmanuel, is buried here, as are also Raphael and 
several other celebrated artists. 

One cannot enter such*a structure with such a his- 
tory attached to it, without emotion. He may think 
as he may of the bloody and savage Roman people, of* 
their lust of conquest, of their cruelty, which delighted 
in the slaughter of animals, and yet more, of men ; 
of their vices which shock the imagination ; yet he 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 467 

cannot forget that, with much that was detestable in 
Roman character, there was much that was refined, 
and more that was magnificent ; that Christianity not- 
withstanding, the reader of history can hardly point 
to a period of more grateful, undisturbed repose, than 
that which occurred between the accession of Trajan, 
and the death of the second Antonine ; that if Rome 
conquered the earth, one state after another, it then 
united them, otherwise at ceaseless war with each 
other, beneath one strong and stable government ; 
and that such union is a source of security and peace, 
on the whole, however it may be brought about, as 
the disunion of the Italian States throughout the 
Middle Ages abundantly testifies, and our disunion 
wruild, were the golden band once broken that now holds 
the States together ; we cannot forget that with all the 
evil Rome originated and transmitted, it has left, 
among other good, the rich legacy of her literature 
aud her arts ; some expiation at least for her aggres- 
sions, cruelties, vices, and crimes. Nowhere else 
does melancholy, yet a pleasing melancholy, so 
oppress the mind as in Rome. You feel there always 
as if wandering among funeral monuments, — the 
monuments of a fallen empire, and the greatest of 
empires, — of an empire, however, whose most dur- 
able monuments are not the few vestiges of structures, 
magnificent as they are, and imperishable as they 
seem, but much 'more in the literature which her 



468 A SUMMER JAUNT 

genius has bequeathed ; and more still in the language, 
wrought in the process of ages, into the substance of 
every living tongue in Europe. Those are monuments 
of her former greatness, evidences of her universal 
sovereignty, greater than any other. Marble and 
brass may perish with time ; but a flavor of the ancient 
Roman speech, we may reasonably believe, will hang 
about human language while any remnant of mankind 
will survive to use it. 

The traveller who, when invited to visit the Baths 
of Caracalla, declined, on the ground that after hav- 
ing seen so many ruins, he didn't care to visit an old 
bath-hou>e, only displayed the ordinary lack of intel- 
ligence in regard to the remains of these wonderful 
structures. While gazing upon these, Mr. Wood 
observed, " We Englishmen think we have accom- 
plished something in our history, and I suppose you 
Americans think you have done some deeds that will 
live, in the first century of your nation's life ; but I 
venture to assert there is no structure in England or 
America that can compare with these buildings as they 
stood in their original splendor and magnificence." 

The richness of the marbles, vases, and statuary 
seen in the museums of Rome, and throughout. Italy, 
as having been found in these baths, naturally excites 
a desire to visit these famous ruins. Many have very 
erroneous ideas of Roman baths, deriving their im- 
pressions, probably, from baths of modern times, and 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 469 

supposing the ancient ones to be like the modern, ex- 
cept that the former were more luxurious and perfect 
in fittings and appointments. The tourist will find 
himself in the midst of arched passages, a long extent 
of ruined walls, great halls with lofty, shattered ceil- 
ings and elegant mosaic floors, with beautiful colored 
designs wrought in the pavement, — a collection of 
ruins which requires the walk of an English mile to 
encompass them. 

The buildings must have been in the form of a large 
parallelogram ; exterior, -or outer buildings, of four 
thousand two hundred feet, enclosing an inner, or 
great court, which was cut up into various divisions. 
In this great inner court was a grand building on 
arches, which was seven hundred feet long by four 
hundred and fifty broad. These great buildings now 
present to the spectator only a series of roofless ruins, 
with great fragments of arches and walls ; and you 
may pass through what were once large and elegant 
halls and apartments, well-defined by lines of mason- 
ry, from which the decorations and rich marbles have 
been stripped, as is plainly evident by fragments that 
here and there remain, or a patch of what was once one 
great sheet of mosaic pavement. The numerous halls 
and apartments of this extensive ruin will indicate to 
the visitor how complete must have been this grand 
establishment for the comfort and luxurious enjoyment 
of the people. First, for the purposes of bathing, 



470 A SUMMER JAUNT 

there was every possible convenience that conld be de- 
vised, — the disrobing room, the vapor bath, the tepid 
bath, the hot bath, or cold bath, and the unctuarium, 
where the bather could be perfumed and anointed with 
oil. The remains of these, in various stages of ruin, 
are traced out, and also the vaults beneath, by which 
the water was heated by means of furnaces or stoves. 

Then there was one large, open swimming bath, 
open to the sky above, in which sixteen hundred 
swimmers could paddle about in the water to- 
gether. But it was not alone for bathing and swim- 
ming that the people resorted here ; for there were, be- 
sides the baths of different temperatures, gardens and 
fountains, libraries, art-galleries, rooms for discussion, 
theatres for athletic games, shady and pleasant walks, 
an arena for running and wrestling, refreshment-shops, 
perfume and fancy bazaars, and halls for poets to re- 
cite their verses, lecture-rooms and theatres for com- 
edy performances, with seats for spectators, — all of 
which made the baths a place of resort, not only for 
cleansing and refreshment of ablution, but a great place 
of amusement, entertainment, and luxurious enjoy- 
ment of the Eoman people. 

Considerable portions of the arched roof are remain- 
ing, and a few years ago a beautiful grove crowned its 
summit, .beneath whose shade Shelley wrote his "Pro- 
metheus Unbound." It reminds one of the hanging- 
garden which the king of Babylon reared for the grati- 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 471 

fication of his Median bride, who pined for the breezy 
slopes of her native land. In the preface, Shelley 
says : — 

" This poem was chiefly written upon the mountainous 
ruins of the Baths of Caracalla. among the flowery glades 
and thickets of odoriferous blossoming trees which are ex- 
tended in ever- widening labyrinths upon its immense plat- 
forms and dizzy arches suspended in the air. The bright, 
blue sky of Rome, and the effect of the vigorous awakening 
spring in that divinest climate, and the new life with which it 
drenches the spirits even to intoxication, were the inspiration 
of the drama." 

Over the Appian Way is the scene of the first drive 
the stranger takes out of Rome. It is a magnificent 
promenade amongst ruinous tombs, the massive re- 
mains of which extend for many miles over the Roman 
Campagna. It is well known that no one was allowed 
to be buried within the walls of the city, save the Ves- 
tal Virgins. The powerful families of ancient Rome 
loved to build monuments to their dead by the side of 
the public road, probably to exhibit at once their affec- 
tion for their relatives and their own power and afflu- 
ence. Most of these monuments are now nothing but 
heaps of ruins, upon which are placed the statues and 
sculptures which have been found in the earth or 
amongst the rubbish. The inscriptions found on these 
tombs and monuments bear witness to the grief of the 
living for the dead, but never to the hope of reunion. 



472 A SUMMEE JAUNT 

On a great number of sarcophagi,' or the friezes of 
tombs, may be seen the dead sitting or lying, as if they 
were alive ; some seem to be praying. Sometimes a 
white marble figure, beautifully draped, projects from 
these heaps of ruins, but without head or hands. Some- 
times a hand is stretched out, or a portion of a figure 
rises from the tomb. It is a street through monu- 
ments of the dead, across an immense churchyard, for 
such the desolate Roman Campagna may be regarded. 

To the left, it is scattered with the ruins of colossal 
aqueducts, which, during the time of the emperors, 
conveyed lakes and rivers to Rome, and which still, 
ruinous and destroyed, delight the eye by the beauti- 
ful proportions of their arcades. 

One of the most imposing monuments on this road 
is the Tomb of Cecilia Mete 11a, the wife of Crassus, a 
wealthy Roman tax-gatherer. It is a round tower, 
seventy feet in diameter. On its broad summit rise 
the battlements of a mediaeval fortress, out of the 
midst of which grow trees, bushes, and thick festoons 
of ivy. This tomb of a woman has become the dun- 
geon-keep of a castle (the battlements were added in 
the thirteenth century), and all the care that Cecilia 
Metella's husband could bestow to secure endless 
peace for her beloved relics only sufficed to make that 
handful of precious ashes the nucleus of battles long 
ages after her death. 

" There is a stern round tower of other days, 
Firm as a fortress, with its fence of stone ; 
What was this tower of strength ? Within its cave 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 473 

What treasure lay so locked ? A woman's grave. 

Thus much alone we know, — Metella died 

The wealthiest Roman's wife : Behold his love, or pride." 

Between the tomb of Cecilia Metella and the ruins 
of Roma Vecchia, a distance of about two miles and a 
half, Sir William Gell noted fifty-one tombs on the 
right, and forty-two on the left of the road. From 
this fact we may learn how numerous these structures 
must have been along the Appian Way in the flourish- 
ing periods of Rome. Near Roma Vecchia is a large 
castellated farm-house, built entirely from the plunder 
of ancient tombs. Manifold are the uses of the dead 
to the living. Mummies are split up to boil the tea- 
kettle of an American pedestrian, and a Roman peas- 
ant sleeps in the tomb of the Metelli. 

It was a fact full of interest, to be told soon after we 
started out, that here stood the Porta Capena, where 
the survivor of the Ho rati i met his sister on his return 
from the memorable combat, and slew her with a blow 
of his sword on seeing her express grief for one of 
the Curiatii who had fallen beneath his victorious blade ; 
and it was at this gate that Cicero was received by the 
Roman people and Senate on his return from banish- 
ment, b. c. 57. This world-famous road, over which 
the thundering legions of Rome have, many a time, 
tramped to victorious battle, was built by the Censor, 
Appius Claudius the Blind, three hundred years before 
the birth of our Saviour. But the thought that is 



474 



A SUMMER JAUNT 



uppermost in the mind of the Christian visitor on this 
road is the fact that it was trodden by the footsteps of 
the Apostle Paul, while on his way, a prisoner, to be 
tried at Borne : — 

"And so we went toward Rome. And from thence, when 
the brethren heard of us, they came to meet us as far as 
Appii Forum, and the Three Taverns ; whom when Paul saw, 
he thanked God, and took courage. And when we came to 
Rome, the centurion delivered the prisoners to the captain of 
the guard : but Paul was suffered to dwell by himself with a 
soldier that kept him."— Acts 28 : 14-16. 

It is well to remember that, amidst the dim tradi- 
tions of later times, one figure at least stands out 
clear, distinct and undoubted, and this figure is the 
Apostle Paul. Whatever we 'may think concerning 
any other apostle or apostolic man in connection 
with Rome, he, beyond a shadow of a doubt, appears 
in the New Testament as her great teacher. No criti- 
cism or skepticism of modern times has ever ques- 
tioned the perfect authenticity of that last chapter of 
the Acts, which gives the account of his journey, stage 
by stage, till he set foot within the walls of the city. 
However much we may be compelled to distrust any 
particular traditions concerning special localities of his 
life and death, we cannot doubt for a moment that his 
eye rested on the same general view of sky and plain 
and mountain ; that his feet trod the pavement of the 



THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 475 

same Appian Way ; that his path lay through the same 
long avenue of ancient tombs on which we now look 
and wonder; that he entered (and there we have our 
last authentic glimpse of his progress) through the 
Arch of Drusus, and then is lost to our view in the 
great Babylon of Rome. 

We must not omit to speak of the Mamertiiie Prison, 
believed to be the dungeon in which Paul and Peter 
were imprisoned while at Rome. This is the most 
ancient, and, at the same time, the best- verified 
edifice belonging to ancient Rome. It was here 
that Jugurtha, after being dragged in chains behind 
the triumphal chariot of Caius Marius, was shut 
up and starved to death. The prison now, or upper 
part of it, is made into a little church or oratory, 
with religious emblems' and votive offerings hung 
about. In ancient times there was no staircase, but 
prisoners were let down through a trap-door, or hole 
in the roof. Now, however, a monk, for a gratuity of 
course, shows you down a flight of stone steps into the 
dungeon described by Livy and Sallust. 

Its damp, cold, -pitiless stones have been witness to 
the most terrible scenes of torture and suffering, for 
the visitor here stands in the enclosure which, built 
four or five centuries before the Christian era, was the 
prison where, b. c. 449, Appius Claudius, the .o inpo 
-t***- who endeavored to obtain, possession of the 
daughter of Virginius, slew himself to escape the ven- 



476 A SUMMER JAUNT 

geance.of the people ; and here was the brave Manlius 
Capitolinus immured, despite his services to his coun- 
trymen. Here, as the triumphs turned aside after 
their grand march through the city and the Forum, 
were captive kings and chiefs plunged, after having 
been exhibited as a spectacle to the populace. The 
accomplices of Catiline were strangled in this gloomy 
vault by order of Cicero, who came forth himself bear- 
ing the news of their death to the people in the Forum, 
exclaiming, in answer to their clamorous inquiries, 
" Vixerunt" (they have ceased to live). 

A cruel cavern it is indeed, for within it Julius 
Ciesar basely thrust his gallant enemy, Vercingetorix, 
King of the Gauls, who surrendered himself volun- 
tarily to save his people ; and, after keeping him six 
years captive, murdered him here. Here Sejanus, the 
friend and minister of Tiberius, disgraced too late, 
was executed for the murder of Drusus, son of the 
emperor, and for an intrigue with his daughter-in-law, 
Livilla. Here also, Simon Bar Gionas, the last brave 
defender of Jerusalem, after being dragged and 
scourged at the chariot-wheels of Titus, in his 
triumphal entry into Rome, yielded up his life upon 
the floor that for twenty-three centuries has been 
soaked with the blood of chieftains, senators, kings, 
and emperors. 

Yet it is not these events that render it so interest- 
ing a spot to the Christian visitor, for it was here that 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 477 

Peter and Paul are said to have been confined for nine 
months, during their imprisonment in Rome ; and we 
confess, as the monk pointed out what he averred to 
be the very pillar to which these apostles were chained 
during their captivity, that although we did not rever- 
ently kiss it, as did a Roman Catholic at our side, we 
could not leave without laying our hands upon the 
spot upon which might perhaps have rested the hands 
of those who had pressed the blessed palm of Christ 
our Saviour. The little fountain or well in the floor, 
the Romish Church must, of course, ascribe to a 
miraculous origin ; they say it sprang up at the bid- 
cling of the two apostles, for them to -baptize their 
jailers, whom they had converted. As we came up 
the staircase, our guide also called attention to a 
depression, or indentation in the stone, which is said 
to have been the impression made by the head of St. 
Peter, who was rudely thrust against it by his jailer. 
It is thus the Church of Rome, by the demand for 
such credulity as this, and appeals to the most igno- 
rant, really tends to shake historical belief in other 
ruins, relics, or localities, that have a certain amount 
of authenticity. 

Under the Church of Santa Maria, in Via Lata, we 
were shown what is generally believed to be Paul's 
"own hired house," where he "dwelt two whole years." 
Descending by a staircase, we enter a series of three 
rooms, grievously transformed by restorations, and 



478 A SUMMER JAUNI 

encumbered by modern altars, but yet showing suffi- 
cient evidence of their original construction. In these 
rooms, or in rooms of the house of which these form 
the ground floor, St. Paul taught and ministered. 
Here he wrote his Epistles to the Ephesians, Philip- 
pians, Colossians, Hebrews, Philemon, and the 
Second Epistle to Timothy. Here were gathered 
around him Onesiphorus of Ephesus, Epaphras of 
Colosse, Timothy, Hermas, Aristarchus, Marcus, De- 
mas, Luke the Physician, and Onesimus, "whom I 
have begotton in my bonds." It is said that in this 
house St. Luke wrote the Acts of the Apostles, and 
painted a portrait of the Virgin Mary. 

The whole Church of Christ has abundant reason 
to bless God for the dispensation which, during the 
most matured period of St. Paul's Christian life, de- 
tained him a close prisoner in the imperial city. Had 
he, to the end of his course, been at large, occupied 
as he had long been, "in labors most abundant," he 
would, humanly speaking, never have found time to 
pen those epistles which are among the most blessed 
portions of the Church's inheritance. 

The footsteps of the Apostles Peter and Paul are 
strangely linked with the history and traditions of 
Rome. Churches are built to their memory, statues 
crown columns and cathedrals, and magnificent basili- 
cas stand upon the spots of their martyrdom and 
burial. The Church of the Three Fountains was built 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 479 

upon the spot where St. Paul was beheaded, the 
superstitious monks telling us the fountains sprang up 
wherever the severed head struck the ground during 
three bounds which it made after decapitation. The 
interior of the Basilica of St. Paul beyond the walls, 
built on the spot where St. Paul was buried, surpasses 
in grandeur any church in Home. It is a new church, 
and not yet completed, the old one having been mostly 
destroyed by fire in 1823. On this spot, Anacletus, 
the third Bishop of Rome, .78-91, built an oratory, 
in place of which Constantine the Great founded a 
Church in the year 324, at the prayer of St. Sylves- 
ter, at the same time when the Church in honor of St. 
Peter was founded upon the Vatican, the site of his 
grave. Beneath the altar repose half of the bodies 
of Peter and Paul ; the other half of their bodies lie 
in St. Peter's. The heads of those apostles are 
shown in the Basilica of St. John Lateran. Following 
the footsteps of the great apostles, much of our wan- 
derings in Rome seemed like travelling in the Holy 
Land. 

Near this Church of St. John Lateran is the build- 
ing containing the "Santa Scala," or Holy Staircase, 
of twenty-eight steps of marble, believed, by devout 
Catholics, to be those ascended by our Saviour, on his 
way to the judgment hail in Pilate's house. They 
are said to have been brought from Jerusalem by St. 
Helena, the mother of Constantine, a tradition which 



480 A SUMMER JAUNT 

would seem to receive support from the fact that they 
arc formed of the veined white Tyrian marble. If 
you would ascend these stairs, you must do it upon 
your knees — no one is permitted to Avalk up. These 
steps are covered with wood, with the exception of 
small apertures, rimmed with brass, through which a 
spot of the step may be touched by the lips. Up 
these stairs, one by one, upon the knees, the worship- 
per ascends, kissing each step through the aperture 
as he comes upon it, and saying a prayer over it 
before leaving it for the next. 

About threo-'quartcrs of an hour is consumed in 
getting to the top in the prescribed manner, and we 
noticed that the wood covering was well worn by the 
knees of the worshippers, and the brass rims of the 
apertures had been polished to a glittering brightness 
by the frequent contact of lips. These are the stairs 
up which Martin Luther was ascending in the usual 
manner, painfully upon his knees, when, half way, he 
suddenly seemed to hear the whisper of a divine voice 
say, " The just shall live by faith," and he rose to his 
feet, descended, and left the place. 

Among the anticipated pleasures of the art-student 
at Rome, stands out first and foremost, a visit to the 
halls of the unrivalled Vatican. It stretches away on 
the north side of St. Peter's, with its twenty courts, 
containing, it is said, eleven thousand chapels, saloons, 
and chambers ; and with its gardens and St. Peter's, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 481 

occupying nearly thirty acres of ground. It is the 
largest palace in the world, and additions have been 
made to it from time to time for the last five hundred 
years. The popes have resided here since their 
return from Avignon, surrounded by the richest treas- 
ures of art the world has ever possessed. Besides 
the papal establishment, the Vatican contains great 
galleries, libraries, and museums. Its collection of 
sculpture is the largest in the world, containing many 
of the great masterpieces familiar to nearly all by casts, 
photographs, and engravings. It also comprises the 
highest triumphs of painting, in the frescoes of 
Kaphael and Michael Angelo. He who has seen the 
Vatican, has seen the utmost point reached by the 
human mind and hand in these two arts. The world 
is no more likely to witness anything beyond what is 
here visible, than to have a nobler epic than the Iliad, 
or a greater dramatist than Shakespeare. 

•Foremost among them, and placed by general con- 
sent at the head of all oil paintings in the world, is 
the Transfiguration, by Kaphael. It was the last 
work of the artist, and not entirely completed at his 
death. All will be slow to criticise such a picture, 
not only in deference to the consenting judgments of 
more than three hundred years, but on account of 
the touching interest thrown over it from the fact 
that these were the last lines traced by that immortal 
hand. It hung over his death-bed as he lay in state, 



482 A SUMMER JAUNT 

and was carried in his funeral procession. Many will 
recall the graceful lines of Rogers, where he has com- 
memorated this incident in his " Italy " : — 



" And when all beheld 
Him wnere he lay, how changed from yesterday — 
Him in that hour cut off, and at his head 
His last great work ; when, entering in they look, 
Now on the dead, then on that masterpiece — 
Now on his face, lifeless and colorless, 
Then on those forms divine that lived and breathed 
And would live on for ages — all were moved, 
And sighs burst forth and loudest lamentations." 



Opposite the Transfiguration, hangs the Communion 
of St. Jerome, by Domenichino ; a picture which is 
sometimes ranked as the next in merit to the Trans- 
figuration, of all the pictures in the world. How- 
ever, all such judgments in ranking paintings as first, 
second, and third is senseless, as no two persons will 
agree in their estimates, and there is no common stand- 
ard to appeal to for a decision between conflicting 
judgments. The aged saint, — feeble, emaciated, 
dying, — is borne in the arms of his disciples, to the 
chapel of his monastery, and placed within the porch. 
A young priest sustains him ; St. Paula, kneeling, 
kisses one of his thin, bony hands ; the lion droops 
his head with an expression of grief; the eyes and 
attention of all are on the dying saint, while four 
angels, hovering above, look down upon the scene. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 483 

In the same room hangs another work by Eaphael, 
his famous Madonna de Foligno, which is another 
illustration of his power of blending things celestial 
and things terrestial in such a way as to disarm criti- 
cism by the reconciling power of genius. 

From the paintings and frescos of Raphael, we pass 
to the Sistine Chapel, the ceiling of which, and the 
great western end of the ehurCh, are the work of 
Michael Angclo. On the end wall is the picture of 
the Last Judgment ; on the ceiling, the prophets and 
sibyls. Let no one go to Rome in the hope of either 
seeing or enjoying the world-renowned picture of the 
Last Judgment. It is now scarcely visible, — what 
with damp, neglect, the smoke of wax candles, and 
time. Other reasons will not now allow it to be 
enjoyed, could it be seen ever so well. The awful 
subject of the picture is treated in a manner too gross 
and material, and, we must say, with too much levity 
for the mind of the present generation. One is ready 
to think Michael Angelo intended it as a satire on the 
vulgar doctrines of the church. Certainly the human 
heart, under the influences of Christian truth so long, 
has become too much softened to endure a treatment 
of a subject, which, in the sixteenth century, one 
must suppose, occasioned to the Christians of those 
days the finest - delight, if we may judge from the 
frequency with which it was treated in all parts .of 
Italy. Nothing, apparently, gave them more heartfelt 



484 A SUMMER JAUNT 

pleasure than witnessing on the walls of churches, 
or the domes of cathedrals, the torments of the 
damned, — God the Father sitting and with com- 
placency surveying the scene ; Christ the active agent, 
by whom the millions of mankind are plunged into 
the fiery billows of endless woe. That is precisely 
the subject, and the manner of treating it in the 
Sistinc Chapel. Michael Angelo made no advance 
over the ideas of his age. Great as he was, he was 
not great enough for that. Or if he had, he would 
doubtless have been prevented from giving them 
expression by the prevailing superstitions of his age. 
Any attempt on his part to show that the sufferings of 
futurity were of a moral, not physical nature, might 
have proved him a better theologian and a wiser man, 
but might, at the same time, have confined him for the 
rest of his days to the dungeons of the Inquisition. 

But if one is to be warned against expectations of 
pleasure from seeing the picture of the Last Judg- 
ment, he may be assured that he would be well repaid 
if he journeyed hence to Rome, with the single pur- 
pose of seeing the ceiling of the Sistine ; saw that, 
studied it thoroughly, and returned, having seen noth- 
ing else. If one understands enough of the art of 
painting to appreciate its difficulties, the genius it 
requires, and the obstacles to be encountered and 
overcome, especially painting in fresco, and especially, 
still again, painting upon a ceiling, — then casts his 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 485 

eye to the ceiling of that chapel, and is told that one 
mind conceived and one hand executed it, with all the 
miracles of art that astonish you, in the short space of 
two years, he would stoutly deny its possibility ; or 
else assert that divine creatures descended, and stood 
at his side, inspired his mind, and guided his pencil. 

This ceiling is covered with the figures of the 
prophets and the sibyls, of the grandest form, designed 
and painted with a freedom of hand, and a sublimity 
of conception, to which there is nothing corresponding 
in the whole history of art. Any one of those forms, 
done by an artist in the maturity of his powers, and 
with years at his command, would have raised him at 
once to celebrity. 

Our Allston was a man of great genius ; in one 
department of art almost without a rival. Yet he left 
half finished a single picture on which he had been 
employed many years, — conquered by the multiplied 
difficulties of the task. But the mind that painted 
the ceiling of the Sistine, was the same that raised 
the dome of St. Peter's ; and the same that struck out 
of the marble the marvellous statues of Night and 
Day, Morning and Evening, Julius the Second, Moses, 
David, — an accumulation of power in a single mind, 
to which a parallel can scarcely be found in any age. 
None have doubted that he was the greatest man 
of his age ; or as one who had exercised the three first- 
named arts, the greatest, probably, that ever lived. 



486 A SUMMEK JAUOT 

But it has been doubted and disputed in which of 
the three he was greatest. After contemplating at 
leisure the ceiling of the Sistine, and calling to mind 
the other works of Michael Angelo, for ourself, we 
could not doubt. We would rather have designed 
and painted that ceiling, as an intellectual achieve- 
ment, than have done any other work in the same 
department of art, the fame of which has descended 
to our time. 

It is a happy circumstance, that in respect to one of 
the most perfect pieces of statuary in the world, the 
famous Apollo Belvidere, it was, when first disinterred 
from the ruins, found almost perfect; the right fore- 
arm, the left hand, and a portion of the right foot 
were alone necessary to be added. This was done by 
a disciple of Michael Angelo. As it now stands, in a 
beautiful cabinet called the Belvidere, it is certainly 
worthy of all the homage it has ever received, and 
still receives, from every lover of art, from whatever 
quarter of the world he may come. Still it rouses 
little feeling, it stirs little enthusiasm. You look at 
it, admire, praise, and depart. There is no sentiment 
in the form to call forth sentiment in the beholder, 
beyond the admiration of mere animal beauty, and 
that can hardly move or fire the mind. When in the 
Museum of the Capitol, you look at the form of the 
Dying Gladiator ; though the one is a god and the 
other a slave, you can hardly withdraw your eyes from 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 487 

what so deeply interests you. As works of art, one 
perhaps is not less perfect than the other. The dif- 
ference in the attractiveness and power of the one 
over the other must be explained by the existence in 
the one of the tragic element, which reigns paramount 
over every other. But in the Apollo there is not only 
nothing that yields a tragic interest ; there is too little 
to yield anything at all. From the expression of the 
eyes, looking upward, and the position of the remain-' 
ing portions of the arms when found, it has been gen- 
erally supposed he was watching an arrow which had 
just left his bow. It seems, from a statuette recently 
discovered, similar in all points, and evidently a copy 
of the Apollo Belvidere, that the original did not hold 
the bow in his hand, but the aegis or shield of Jupiter, 
made for him by Vulcan, bearing upon its front the 
head of Medusa, and used for putting to flight a fatal 
enemy. The aegis, bearing Medusa's head, was the 
symbol of storm and tempest, and was lent to Apollo, 
according to Homer's Iliad, and with it he drove back 
the hosts of the Achaians. Hence it is decided by some 
authorities that the extended left arm (restored) bore 
the terrifying shield, and that by the same reason the left 
hand, also a restoration, is not in its correct position. 

But how inferior is this statue to the Venus, either 
of Florence or the Capitol. You may say that in 
both these cases there is only animal beauty to excite 
an interest; and it is true. And the only difference 



488 A SUMMER JAUNT 

is, that in one it is the beauty of man, in the other 
of a woman. But just as in real life, in ancient and 
in modern times, as female beauty is that for which 
the world has a thousand times gone mad, while it has 
never done so for the beauty of a man ; so in these stat- 
ues, the Apollo receives few worshippers, is compara- 
tively neglected, while for the Venus, crowds gather 
around her, and few leave her for the last time without 
a sensible pang. 

Not far from the Apollo stands the Laocoon, discov- 
ered on the Esquiline, among the ruins of the Palace 
of Titus, and placed in the chambers of the Vatican 
by Leo XII. 

Notwithstanding the size and complicated character 
of this wonderful group, each of the three figures in 
the most violent action, and the folds of the serpent 
winding around all the limbs of both father and sons 
in the most intricate manner, it has sustained but 
the most trifling injury from time ; an escape almost 
miraculous, when one considers the masses of build- 
ing which must have fallen upon it, but beneath which 
it then lay securely buried. It is a subject for sculp- 
ture which can possess no attraction except for the 
difficulties, almost impossible, by which its execution 
was attended, and by which they have been overcome 
with a genius second certainly to that of no other 
whose fame has descended to our time. Such truth 
pervades it as if living persons were dying before our 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 489 

eyes, within the crushing folds of the hideous mon- 
ster. The tragedy is too real, too loathsome for 
enjoyment. You leave it in the deepest admiration of 
the powers of the human mind, but you never wish to 
see it again, and do not believe it can ever cease to 
visit and torment your dreams. 

But it is impossible to describe or even name all 
the works of sculpture which crowd the magnifi- 
cent halls of the Vatican. There are seventeen 
hundred and sixty separate works of the ancient 
Greeks and Romans described in the catalogues and 
standing on the floors, all of which are possessed of 
merit enough to make them worthy of the attentive 
examination of the student of art. 

The Catacombs are places of melancholy interest 
which all tourists visit. "We visited those under the 
Church of St. Sebastian. These subterranean refuses 
of the early Christians are indeed very melancholy, 
dismal, and awful places ; and yet there is a remark- 
able interest clinging to them as the refuge and resi- 
dence of the early Christians in times of persecu- 
tion. W r e were conducted by a dirty Franciscan 
friar, looking, in the coarse brown dress of his order, 
as though he had burrowed for a lifetime in those low, 
dark passages. Each of us bore a torch, yet never 
ventured to diverge from the way taken by our guide, 
or to fall more than a few feet behind him. He led 
us through a bewildering labyrinth, vault after vault, 



490 A SUMMER JAUNT 

passage opening on passage, chill chambers of death, 
interminable halls of night, where our torches seemed 
to struggle with the heavy air, and to cast faint and 
fearful gleams into the profound depths of that ancient 
darkness. He showed chapels and rude shrines, and 
everywhere sepulchres, hollowed from the soft rock. 
Since the christianization of Eomc, most of the bones 
of the martyrs who perished here have been removed 
to less humble tombs in the churches. Many are kept 
in costly cabinets and shrines, as precious and holy 
relics. 

It was formerly supposed that there was direct com- 
munication between all the different Catacombs of 
Eomc ; that the names, in fact, were merely indications 
of the different localities in one bewildering labyrinth 
of galleries ; but it is now found that they are sepa- 
rate and distinct. Stripped of their contents during 
past ages, from the mouldering bones of the dead to 
every scrap of marble by which the bodies were 
enclosed in their long, horizontal, shelf-like resting- 
places, the Catacombs revealed nothing but an inter- 
minable series of weird, tunuel-like galleries ; but 
within the last twenty years a fresh interest has sprung 
up in these last resting-places of the early Christians. 
New explorations have been made, and through the 
labor and erudition of the celebrated Christian archae- 
ologist, Giovanni Battista De Eossi, we can now see 
portions of the Catacombs, sufficiently uninjured to 




KOMAN TEMPLE OF HERCULES, CALLED THE TEMPLE OF THE SYBIL. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 491 

enable every one to form an idea of what they were 
before they became the prey of the curiosity-seeker 
and th'c relic-monger. The Catacomb of St. Calixtus 
is especially interesting, from the discovery recently 
made of a chamber or crypt wherein a number of the 
early Popes were buried. On the walls are the remains 
of fresco paintings, and enclosing four of the recesses 
are — though in a shattered condition — the marble 
slabs bearing the names in Greek of four martyred 
Popes, entitled simply, Bishop and martyr ; St. Ante- 
ros, 236 ; St. Fabianus, 236-51 ; St. Lucius, 253-55 ; 
and St. Eutychianus. There is reason for believing 
that the other niches contained the bodies of St. 
Urbanus, 224-31, and of St. Sixtus II., martyred in 
258. The crypt has also been discovered in which St. 
Cecilia was buried, and whence her remains were re^ 
moved by Paschal I., in 820, to the church dedicated 
to her in Trastevere. Oh its walls are several paint- 
ings : a Roman lady richly attired, supposed to be St. 
Cecilia ; a largo head of our Saviour, with the nimbus 
arranged like a Greek cross ; and figures of St. Urban 
and three saints, — Polycamus, Sebastianus, and 
Curinus. 

Early in our sojourn in Rome it occurred to many 
of us that we ought to pay our respects to His Holiness 
the Pope. There is a superfluity of red tape and 
court etiquette to be observed before w T e can enter his 
august presence. Signor Barattoni drew up a peti- 



492 A SUMMER JAUNT 

tion to the Holy Father to grant the party an audi- 
ence. This petition was signed by the whole party, 
and was written in Italian, as follows : — 

Santita : Noi qui sottoscritti Americani dei Stati Uniti, 
venuti in questa stagione a visitare per la prima volta 
1'Alma Citta' di Roma, nonostante che non possiamo chia- 
marci figliuoli della Santita vostra pure nutriamo la sper- 
anza che nella bonta* del vostro magnanimo cuore vorrete 
concederce l'alto onore d'ossequiarvi prima della nostra 
obligata partenza la quale avra' luogo nella sera de Giovedi 
prossimo. Speranzosi di tal previlegio ci firmiamo, Della 
Santita' Vostra Umitissimi. 

Translated into English it would read, — 

Holy Father : We, the undersigned, Americans of the 
United States, have come at this season to visit for the first 
time, the historical city of Rome ; and, although we cannot 
call ourselves children of Your Holiness, we cherish the 
hope that in the goodness of your magnanimous heart you 
will grant us the high honor to allow us to present to you 
our respects before our forced departure, which will take 
place on the evening of Thursday next. Hoping that such 
privilege will be granted, we subscribe ourselves of Your 
Holiness the most humble petitioners. 

On Monday the conductor had the petition for- 
warded directly to the Pope, through influential friends 
of his, and Monday evening the welcome intelligence 
was received that His Holiness would grant us an 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 493 

audience on Tuesday at 12.30 p. m. Then we were 
informed as to costumes and court customs. The 
ladies were to wear black dresses and white kids, with 
"black veils on their heads ; the gentlemen, full-dress 
suits, white ties and kids — gloves to be taken off 
before our presentation to the Pope. Those who were 
not supplied with court suits must buy them or hire 
them (as many did) at a few dollars' expense. 

Our guide had forgotten to inform us of another little 
bit of the papal court etiquette, till but a short time 
before the hour named for the reception ; viz. , that we 
must kneel to the Pope when he entered the room, and 
kneel in turn and kiss his hand when he came to us in- 
dividually and offered it. This announcement fell like 
a bomb-shell in the party ; for while there was great 
anxiety, or curiosity, to see the great head of the 
Romish Church, there was a lively discussion, espe- 
cially among the numerous ministers of the party, 
about the propriety and principle of getting down on 
their knees to the Pope of Rome. In vain did our 
conductor assure them it was but a form of the court, 
and of no significance in regard to our particular 
views of theology and religion. "How can we," said 
they, "stand up before our people at home, after hav- 
ing bowed the knee to this modern Baal?" And so, 
quite a number, after having hired their court cos- 
tume, at considerable expense, declined, for consis- 
tency and conscience' sake, to use it for a papal visit. 



494 A SUMMER JAUNT 

We could not look upon it as did some of our good 
friends ; nevertheless, we respected their conscience. 
Our idea was,. when we go to court, be it Roman or 
any other, we ought to conform to the rules of 
that court ; or, in other words, " when you are with 
the Romans do as the Romans do " — so far as custom 
and court etiquette are concerned. 

They tell a story, that once, when a number of per- 
sons were given an audience by Pius IX., some failed 
to kneel when he entered the room, but remained 
standing. Observing this, the Pope remarked, iron- 
ically, "Ah, I see we have a new addition to the stat- 
ues of the Vatican Museum." 

Therefore, the sensible advice was given that all 
those who were not prepared to conform to the rules 
of etiquette of the court of the Vatican should refrain 
from going ; and when those determined to go en- 
tered the carriages at the hotel door, it was found that 
iIk^v numbered just fifty, including Signor Barattoni. 
We drove down the Via Condotti, over the ancient 
bridge of St. Angelo, and on through the Piazza in 
front of St. Peter's, around the church, into an inner 
court of the Vatican. Alighting from our carriages, 
we entered the immense building, and were conducted 
up so many flights of marble stairs that it makes our 
back ache even to remember them. At last we en- 
tered a long, narrow hall, richly frescoed and adorned, 
where fifty red chairs were ranged on either side, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 495 

with a sort of raised dais on one end, on which was 
a bast of some dead Pope upon a costly pedestal, 
with a sort of throne-like chair in front of it. Here 
we sat down to wait, with fast-beating hearts, the 
entrance of the great head of the Catholic Church, 
who we expected would shortly honor us with his pres- 
ence. It was just 12.20 when we arrived — ten 
minutes ahead of the appointed time. We waited 
ten minutes, and we waited fifty-five other minutes, 
and still no Pope came. To be sure, there was a 
finely carved ceiling in blue and gold, and there were 
large pictures on the walls to look at, and the hand- 
some throne-chair; but we wanted to see the Pope*. 
At 1.25 we were requested to leave the Throne-Eoom, 
and, passing on through two others, were ushered 
into a square apartment called the Poom of the Tap- 
estries, from the elegant specimens of this work hung 
upon the walls on three sides. Fifteen minutes later 
the Holy Father appeared. We all knelt, but he 
motioned us to rise. If we had felt any trepidation 
before, we were put entirely at our ease the moment 
we saw the pleasant face of Leo XIII. , and felt the 
kindly influence of his presence. How did the Pope 
look? Well, he is a benign old man, with a fair, 
serene, gentle face, and certainly not unpleasing. He 
had on a white silk skull-cap, and was dressed like a 
venerable baby, all in white. He wore a long robe, 
which came down to his feet, made of the softest and 



496 A SUMMER JAUNT 

most beautiful white woollen stuff which you can 
imagine. There was a short cape about his shoulders, 
trimmed with white silk, and a sash of white watered 
silk ribbon confining the robe at the waist, and white 
kid slippers. Around his neck was a gold chain, 
attached to which was a cross, and his ring, on this 
occasion, was a cameo, bearing the image of the 
Virgin. He appeared quite pleased to see so many 
Americans in one party, and commencing at the left 
of our semi-circle he offered his hand to each one and 
passed slowly around the room, stopping with every 
three or four to talk a moment or two, Signor 
Barattoni acting as interpreter, the conversation be- 
tween them being in Italian. He spent some twenty 
minutes with us, and, when about to leave the room, 
stopped near the door and expressed good wishes for 
the party through the remainder of the tour, and 
throughout their lives ; and said he hoped they would 
remember with pleasure, Italy, Rome, and their visit 
to the Vatican. Then while we knelt he blessed us 
and our families, and our audience was at an end. 

Rome is the great winter watering-place of the 
world. The Romans still live on strangers, as they 
did in the flourishing days of the empire, when the 
Roman legions were sent out to plunder and returned 
laden with spoils ; when the emperors were purvey- 
ors for the people, who fared sumptuously, passed 
their days in the baths and the amphitheatres, and 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 497 

kept their slaves at work. Probably the most impor- 
tant interests in Rome to-day are those which cater to 
the luxurious demands of travelling foreigners. In 
this connection one naturally thinks first of the church. 
For centuries this immense establishment has drawn a 
princely revenue from every country in Christendom. 
Many of the prominent families still living here, and 
many more which have disappeared, were enriched out 
of the contributions of the faithful of other lands, 
collected by the church. From the thirteenth to the 
sixteenth century the Popes practised the most extrav- 
agant nepotism, and their relatives piled up vast 
estates. They built palaces and villas, established 
galleries of painting and sculpture, kept crowds of 
lackeys and retainers, and, becoming more and more 
licentious and extravagant, " made Rome howl," be- 
cause of their bad behavior. 

But that sort of thing has passed away. The Popes 
have been wiser stewards in these latter days. The 
late incumbent, who was so long in office, was gen- 
erally esteemed a man of true piety. 

But we were saying that Rome still lives on strang- 
ers. If one goes to the Pincio any pleasant afternoon, 
and sees the throng of elegant establishments which 
crowd that famous resort, circling about in endless 
procession over the handsome avenue that commands 
a superb view of the city, a little sagacity will show 
him that a great majority of these well-dressed pleas- 



498 A SUMMER JAUNT 

ure-seekers are aliens. They swarm here from Eng- 
land, France, Germany, and America, like pilgrims to 
a popular shrine. In the galleries and museums they 
are in the majority. They sustain the great hotels, 
the banking-houses, the shops, and the cabs. They 
divide up the ruins into days of pleasuring. The 
Romans are bright enough to know where their daily 
bread comes from. Whether they are artists, mechan- 
ics, or beggars, they are polite — that comes natural 
to them — and as for honest and fair dealing, well, 
they take what they can get and get as much as they 
can. 

It is very interesting to traverse the historical city 
of Rome with an archaeologist, and learn by what 
process the patient clelver in the dust and debris of 
the past brings to the modern mind so much accurate 
information upon the life and history of remote cen- 
turies. We cannot be too thankful for the patient 
labors of these men who are opening up churches and 
temples, and cities buried by volcanoes and earthquakes, 
and others covered by the dust and decay of countless 
centuries. Much history we find written with a three- 
fold instrument : the sculptor's marble, the engraver's 
brass, and the historian's pen. In the Roman Forum are 
two marble balustrades, sculptured on both sides. On 
the inner sides of each are the animals — a pig, a s*heep, 
and a bull — offered in the sacrifice of expiation, 
called the Suovetaurilia. On the outer side, towards 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 499 

the Capitol, is an alto-relief commemorating the great 
act of charity by Trajan, in the establishment of a 
number of orphan asylums throughout the Roman 
dominions; and on the side towards the Palatine, the 
burning of the public records of the arrears of taxes. 
It was customary to stamp on coins any marked 
achievement in the year they were coined, with the 
elate, name, and likeness of the emperor on the other 
side. Thus these coins and marbles become pictorial 
histories of each emperor's reign, and go to confirm 
the historian's record. 

Mr. Wood made this remark to our party, which 
excited no little surprise, because" it was so different 
from our earlier impressions. He said: "We find 
that well authenticated traditions, handed down 
through a long succession of generations, though often 
improbable, and sometimes incredible, prove almost 
invariably true." One of the most remarkable con- 
firmations is the discovery of St. Clement's House. 
He took us into St. Clement's Church, which tradition 
always said was built upon the site of St. Clem- 
ent's House — the St. Clement who was a cotempo- 
rary and co-laborer with Paul at Rome, and whom he 
mentions in his letter to the Philippians. 

Until recently this Basilica was believed to be that 
which, according to the testimony of St. Jerome, 
preserved the memory of St. Clement ; that memory, 
according to tradition, being the house in which he 



500 A SUMMER JAUNT 

had lived, and wherein he had ministered to his Chris- 
tian brethren. Of a church dedicated to St. Clement 
there is a continuous series of records, from the end of 
the fourth century to our own day, and as the records 
from the twelfth century distinctly apply to this Basil- 
ica, it was supposed, in the absence of any other church 
bearing the same dedication, that those of the earlier 
centuries did so equally. In the year 1857, however, 
Father Mullooly, the learned Prior of the Irish Domin- 
icans, to which order the church belongs, com- 
menced excavations, and discovered an earlier Basil- 
ica, of which no record remained, exactly beneath 
what, by comparison, must now be called the modern 
church. At some period, anterior to the twelfth cen- 
tury, it was abandoned — filled up, as the chambers of 
Nero's Golden House were — and turned into a sub- 
structure for the church above. It is probable that 
the necessity for this arose through the ruin and 
devastation caused throughout this region by the 
soldiers of Robert Guiscard, when he entered Rome 
by the Lateran Gate, in 1084, on behalf of Gregory 
VII., and that, as the building of the upper was con- 
temporaneous with the abandonment of the lower 
church, the memory of the one became merged in the 
other. 

The columns dividing the aisles from the nave are still 
standing in their places, the intercolumniations being 
filled in with a rude wall of foundation for the church 



THEOUGH THE OLD WOELD. 501 

above. The walls are seen to have been covered 
throughout with paintings in fresco ; some irreparably 
damaged, and scarcely recognizable, others in a most 
remarkable state of preservation. They are of the 
eighth and ninth centuries, and include the Crucifix- 
ion, with the Virgin and St, John standing by the 
cross, — the earliest example in Rome of this well- 
known subject ; the Ascension, sometimes called by 
Romanists (in preparation for their dogma of 1870), 
"the Assumption of the Virgin," because the figure of 
the Virgin is elevated above the other apostles, though 
she is evidently intent on watching the retreating 
figure of her divine Son ; the Story of St. Alexis and 
St. Clement ; the Funeral of St. Cyril with Pope 
Nicholas I. (858-67) walking in the procession; the 
Descent into Hades ; the Marriage of Cana ; the Vir- 
gin with the infant Saviour on her lap ; St. Clement 
officiating at the altar, (a most simple and touching 
scene, a little table with the bread and cup, but ill— 
according with the show and glare of the Romish rit- 
ual) ; and among several others, St. Cyril baptizing 
by immersion. The eyes of our Baptist friends 
sparkled as they gazed upon this picture ; regarding 
it as an evidence that the custom of the eighth and 
ninth centuries favored their mode of administering 
the ordinance. 

The mosaic pavement is in many places entire, and 
the foundations of the marble choir and ambones re- 



502 A SUMMER JAUNT 

moved into the upper church at the time it was built, 
are distinctly recognizable. But in addition to these 
discoveries, most wonderful of all, it was found that 
the Basilica, which shows the construction of the 
fourth century, was built upon the walls of an edifice 
of the first century, which further explorations have 
proved to be the remains of St. Clement's house ! 

Of this several rooms have been excavated. A 
vestibulum leading into a chamber with a vaulted 
ceiling, adorned with beautiful stucco ornaments, and, 
through this, another chamber, beyond which is a 
staircase communicating with the south aisle of the 
Basilica, Beyond these, towards the west, a triple 
arch, divided by columns, opens upon a kind of cor- 
ridor, from whence a door leads into a large room, 
which, towards the end of the third century, as shown 
by the construction, was converted into a Mithraic 
temple ! There can be little doubt that this was the 
Memoria mentioned by St. Jerome ; the Oratory, 
wherein he, and whomsoever among the apostles may 
have been in Borne, ministered to the first Christian 
converts, and that it was converted to the service of 
the Persian deity, when in all probability the property 
was confiscated during the fearful persecution in the 
time of Diocletian. 

Father Mullooly deserves great credit for the part 
he has taken in these important discoveries. He is a 
public-spirited, liberal-minded man, carrying on this 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 503 

enterprise almost single-handed and alone, receiving 
but little aid or encouragement from the Church. 
The Romish hierarchy trusts more to blind, unreason- 
ing faith, and the "traditions of men," than to his- 
torical research and archaeological discovery ; and the 
way they have treated Father Mullooly in this matter 
shows that they fear the developments of science and 
discovery will not favor the practice and ideas of the 
modern Romish Church. Our party took up a gen- 
erous collection to help along this brave man, in his 
search for light in the bowels of the' buried city. 

It is well known that ancient Rome lies buried, in 
some places, twenty to thirty feet below the modern 
city. Mr. Wood thinks it probable that Rome at one 
time contained 5,000,000 inhabitants — it is absolutely 
certain it had a population of two and a half mil- 
lions ; but afterwards, when overrun by the northern 
hordes and barbarians, and laid low by lire and pil- 
lage, it was reduced to about 15,000 people — almost 
depopulated. Thus by a dozen successive sieges and 
conflagrations, and the natural accumulation and decay 
of centuries, the corpse of old Rome has been buried 
for ages beyond the sight of man. The great aque- 
ducts of Rome are monuments of the wealth and 
wonders of the ancient city. Here is one, the Aqua 
Marcia, constructed 146 years b. c, which stretched 
its arches of masonry away out to the Sabine Hills, a 
distance of fifty-six miles ; while the Aqua Claudia, 



504 A SUMMER JAUNT 

put up by the Emperor Claudius A. r>. 50, was over 
fifty-eight miles in length. The water in Borne to-day 
is esteemed by tourists the best in Europe, can be 
drank freely, and, except, of course, in very hot 
weather, with safety. For six or eight miles, stretched 
over the Campagna, do the ruined arches mark the 
course of these great public works of the Roman em- 
perors, and that the water-supply was an all-important 
one, is seen in the fact, that good authorities state that 
when all the aqueducts were in operation in Rome (in 
the imperial epoch) , the supply must have been fifty mil- 
lion cubic feet in twenty-four hours, or ten times the 
actual supply of London for the same time. Rome is, 
to-day, a city of fountains ; you find them at every 
turn, and in every square, and there are said to be, in 
modern Rome, over six hundred, while ancient Rome 
boasted of thirteen thousand. 

The Column of Trajan, erected by the Senate and 
the people, a. d. 114, is the most stupendous monu- 
ment of ancient Rome. Its height from the ground to 
the 'summit of the statue, is one hundred and thirty- 
two feet ; it is adorned with a spiral band of bas-reliefs, 
the subjects of which are Trajan's Victories over the 
Dacians ; they are of surprising execution ; there are 
twenty-five hundred figures of men, besides a great num- 
ber of horses, of arms, of machines for war, trophies, &c. 
It is of the Doric order, and formed of thirtj^-two great 
masses of marble, eight of which form the pedestal, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 505 

one the base ; twenty-one enormous circular blocks, 
one upon the other, form the shaft ; one the capital, 
and one the pedestal which supports the statue. It 
was formerly crowned by a statue of Trajan, holding a 
gilt globe, which latter is still preserved in the Hall of 
Bronzes, in the Capitol. This statue had fallen from 
its pedestal long before Sixtus V., 1585, replaced it 
by the existing figure of St. Peter. At the foot of the 
column was a sepulchral chamber, intended to receive 
the imperial ashes, which were, however, preserved in 
a golden urn, upon an altar in front of it : 

"And apostolic statues climb 
To crush the imperial urn, whose ashes slept sublime." 

It was while walking in this forum that Gregory the 
Great, in 590, observing one of the marble groups 
which told of a good and great action of Trajan, 
lamented bitterly that the soul of so noble a man should 
be lost, and prayed earnestly for the salvation of the 
heathen emperor. He was told that the soul of Trajan 
should be saved, but that to insure this he must either 
himself undergo the pains of purgation for three clays, 
or suffer earthly pain and sickness for the rest of his 
life. He chose the latter, and was never after in 
health. This incident is narrated by his three bio- 
graphers, John and Paul Diaconus, and John of Salis- 
bury. The forum of Trajan was partly uncovered by 
Pope Paul III. in the sixteenth century, but excavated, 



506 A SUMMER JAUNT 

in its present form, by the French in 1812. There is 
much still buried under the streets and neighboring 
houses. In the area before the column stands a grove 
of stone, consisting of the broken and unequal shafts 
of a vanished temple, still keeping a majestic order, 
and apparently incapable of further demolition. 

The Castle of St. Angelo — originally the Mauso- 
leum of Hadrian ; the Pantheon, and the tomb of 
Cecilia Metella, are the best-preserved monuments of 
ancient Rome ; and this is mainly due to the circular 
form which is common to them all. This form pre- 
sents no salient point, either to the elements or to the 
hand of violence, and offers no sharp corners for the 
teeth of time to nibble upon. This Castle was entirely 
faced with massive blocks of the purest Parian marble. 
On the angles of the basement were groups of men 
and horses in bronze, of admirable workmanship, and 
a range of marble statues ornamented the cornice. 
The summit was crowned by a colossal marble statue 
of the founder, the head of which is now in the Vati- 
can Museum. The gates were of gilt-bronze, with 
gilded peacocks on the pilasters, two of which are also 
in the Vatican. Of this magnificent decoration noth- 
ing now remains. Of the ancient work all that is 
visible from the outside is a portion of the circular 
wall of the mole, formed of great blocks of peperino, 
on which the outer casing of the marble was placed. 
The rest, both above and below, is covered by the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 507 

works of fortification constructed at various periods. 
The statues on the summit perished when the place 
was attacked by the Goths under Vitiges, in 537 ; they 
were flung down by the besieged upon their assailants. 

The castle has for many centuries been also used as 
a state prison. A cell is shown in which it is said 
that Beatrice Cenci was confined. Here, in her prison 
cell, the night before her execution, Guido painted 
that sad but beautiful face of the unfortunate girl, 
who, as many believe, suffered torture and death, 
innocent of the crime of which she was accused. 

The most familiar view of Rome embraces the 
castle and bridge of St. An^elo, and the Church of 
St. Peter's. Many times had we seen them in engrav- 
ings and photographs, and it was with a feeling, half 
recognition and half surprise, that we beheld the real 
group in the clear air of an Italian sky. The com- 
bination is so happy and picturesque, that they appear 
to have arranged themselves for the especial benefit of 
artists, and to be good-naturedly standing, like models, 
to be sketched. 

Of all places in the world, Rome, the city of the 
Pope, seems to me the one in which a Protestant would 
be least likely to turn Catholic. The thing which 
strikes one most forcibly here is the prevalence of 
priests and monks. We have seen enough of them 
anywhere in Italy, but here almost every other person 
is an ecclesiastic of some sort. 



508 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Well, things change, even here at Rome ; and to- 
day the children of Mr. Van Meter's mission sing the 
hymns of Moody and Sankey under the very walls of 
the Vatican, so close to the ears of the Pope, that he 
cannot help hearing them if he would. 

On our last evening in Rome, presents, in the form 
of two beautiful bronze vases, and a handsome cameo 
ring bearing the head of Minerva, were given, by our 
party, to Signor Barattoni, our conductor. In a few 
fitting words, the presentation speech was made by 
Miss M. E. Austin, of New Bedford. 

Inscribed on the vases was the following : — 

"Presented to Mr. C. A. Barattoni, by the Italian Divi- 
sion of Dr. Tourjee's American Party, in token of their 
esteem and appreciation of the many kindnesses shown 
them during their summer over the ocean. 
" Rome, August 15, 1878." 

On the ring was the following inscription : — 

"Presented to Mr. C. A. Barattoni by his American 
admirers and friends. 
" Rome, August 15, 1878." 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 509 



CHAPTER XLT. 

THE FIRST DIVISION. — ITALY CONTINUED. 

Naples — Its Matchless Bay — The Museum — Celebrated Paintings 
and Groups of Statuary — "The Roman Charity" — Pompeii, 
the Buried City — A Perfect Picture of Roman Life Eighteen 
Centuries Ago — Vesuvius — Ascent of the Cone — Descent into 
the Crater — The View from the Summit of Vesuvius — Italian 
Guides and Beggars — Pisa — The Leaning Tower — The 
Cathedral — The Campo Santo — The Baptistry — " Genoa, 
the Superb" — Its Palaces and Churches — A Moonlight Sail 
on the Mediterranean — Turin — An Exciting Incident — En- 
counter of a Brave American Girl with Italian Pickpockets. 

Rome was the extreme southern point in our Italian 
journey, as laid out in our itinerary ; but a few of us 
were not satisfied to return without seeing Naples and 
her matchless bay, the buried city of Pompeii, and 
without climbing and gazing into the fiery crater of 
Vesuvius. Some twelve or fifteen of us left Rome at 
ten p.m., and arrived in Naples at six a.m. the fol- 
lowing morning. We drove to the Hotel Royal, where 
we breakfasted, and then took carriages for a drive 
through the town. We rode through the principal 
streets of the city, visited the Museum and some of 
the finest churches, which were crowded by a gay 
throng, celebrating the fete of the "Assumption of 



510 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the Virgin." Naples is so unlike Rome we do not 
need the help of time to grasp and hold the spirit of 
the place. The veil of the past is not here to be lifted 
slowly and with reverent hands. A single look from 
a favorable position puts the traveller in possession of 
what is most striking and characteristic. At one 
touch the gates of the mind are opened, and the glo- 
rious pageant enters. Rome is like a fresco, in which 
only a measured portion can be painted each day ; but 
Naples is a sun-picture, taken in an instant. It is a 
curious fact that in Naples itself there are few objects 
of interest or curiosity. In architecture there is very 
little to attract attention. There is not a church or a 
palace, or a public edifice of any kind that specially 
holds the attention of the traveller. Why this city, 
more than double the size of any other in Italy, should 
languish in architectural poverty, is a mystery not 
easily explained. All her art treasures of any conse- 
quence are to be found in the Museum ; and the great 
attraction of this collection is not in its pictures or 
marble statues, which seem but crumbs fallen from the 
table of Rome and Florence, but in its unique relics 
from Herculaneum and Pompeii. 

The beauty of Naples and its environs can as little 
be described as exaggerated. The extreme points of 
the two projecting arms which enclose the bay on the 
north-west and south-east, are about twenty miles 
apart. They are similar in their shape and character, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 511 

but by no means identical. The southern promontory 
stretches farther out to sea ; on the other baud, the 
balance is restored by the island of Ischia on the 
north, which is much larger than its southern sister, 
Capri. The curve of the gulf lying between them is 
not regular, but the line of the coast makes nearly a 
right angle at Naples and also at Castellmare, the in- 
tervening space being nearly straight. Vesuvius occu- 
pies a point about half-way between the projecting 
points. The whole space is crowded with human life, 
and comprises within itself nearly every form of 
beauty into which earth and water can be moulded. 
On one side, from a liquid plain of the most dazzling 
blue, a range of mountains, the peaks of which are 
for many months covered with snow, rises in the air. 
Forests of oak and chestnut encircle them midway. 
Between them and the sea there is hardly a terrace of 
level land, and the cliffs that line that tideless shore 
are often crowned and draped with luxurious vegeta- 
tion. In another direction, the primitive features are 
less grand ; but the action of volcanic agencies has 
given great variety of surface within a small compass. 
Numberless points are crowned with villas, monas- 
teries, and houses, linked together by a glowing suc- 
cession of orange groves, vineyards, orchards, and 
gardens. Over all the unrivalled scene, Vesuvius 
towers and reigns, forming the point of convergence 
in which all the lines of beauty and grandeur meet. 



512 A SUMMER JAUNT 

We have seen no other mountain that so impresses the 
mind as this. Although only four thousand feet high, 
it produces all the effect of a much greater elevation, 
because its whole bulk, from the level of the sea to its 
summit, is seen at a glance. Besides the peculiar 
interest which attaches to it as a volcano, it is remark- 
able for its flowing and graceful outline, and the 
symmetrical regularity of its shape. A painter could 
nowhere find a better model from which to draw an 
ideal mountain. But when to this merely lineal beauty 
we add the mysterious and awful power of which its 
smoke and fire are symbols, and those fearful energies 
of destruction which the imagination magnifies at will, 
it becomes a feature in the landscape, which, consider- 
ing its position and proximities, has no parallel on the 
globe. It would seem as if volcanic agency were 
necessary to crown the earth with its most impressive 
loveliness and grandeur, just as a human face never 
reveals all its beauty till passion burns in the eye and 
trembles on the lip. The action of fire alone heaves 
up those sheer walls and notched battlements of rock, 
and sets the mountain lakes in those deep and wooded 
sockets, by which the most expressive landscapes are 
formed, and through which great effects are produced, 
without the aid of great space. Water shapes and 
smooths the earth into something like a Grecian regu- 
larity of outline, but fire sharpens and points it after 
Gothic types. Naples is not only stretched along a 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 513 

winding coast, but scattered over terraces and spurs of 
a range of semi-circular bills, and is brought into 
immediate proximity with commanding heights and a 
grand expanse of water. Thus, when it is seen from 
the sea — which is the finest point of view — the mag- 
nificent lines and sweeps of the landscape fairly eat up 
the city itself, and its white buildings look like rows 
of China cups and saucers ranged along the shelves of 
a crescent-shaped closet. But though it is easy to tell 
what Naples suggests, it is not easy to tell what it is. 
What words can analyze and take to pieces the parts 
and details of this matchless panorama, or unravel 
that magic web of beauty into which palaces, villas, 
forests, gardens, vineyards, the mountains and the sea, 
are woven? 

What pen can paint the soft curves, the gentle 
undulations, the flowing outlines, the craggy steeps, 
and the far-seen heights, which* in their combination, 
are so full of grace, and, at the same time, expression. 
Words here are imperfect instruments, and must yield 
their place to the pencil and the graver. But no 
canvas can reproduce the light and color which play 
round this enchanting region. No skill can catch the 
changing hues of the distant mountains, the star- 
points of the playing waves, the films of purple and 
green which spread themselves over the calm waters, 
the sunsets of gold and orange, and the aerial veils of 
rose and amethyst which drop upon the hills from the 



514 A SUMMER JAUNT 

skies morning and evening. " See Naples and die," is 
the proud boast of the Neapolitans ; and it is not so 
egotistical. The man who dies without seeing it, in 
one of its most favorable aspects, loses no ordinary 
pleasure. There is a combination of scenery here to 
be found nowhere else, though particular portions of 
it imrv be seen in every country. But here is a beauti- 
ful bay, islands, cities, villages, palaces, vineyards, 
plains, mountains, and volcanoes, gathered into one 
"coup d'ceil." There is the grandeur of the past, and 
the beauty of the present; ruined temples, and per- 
fect ones ; living cities and buried cities, and, over all, 
a sky that would make any country, however rugged, 
lovely. 

The Museum of Naples comprises an extensive 
library, a picture gallery, a large collection of works 
in marble and bronze, a wilderness of vases ; and all 
the spoils of Herculaneum and Pompeii are contained 
in a building of vast extent, originally designed for a 
training school for cavalry. 

Among the famous paintings, or frescoes, brought 
here from Pompeii, are two well-known subjects, 
which have often been engraved ; the " Sacrifice of 
Iphigenia" — in which Agamemnon is pictured with 
his face covered, and Iphigenia is grasped by two 
priests in a very unceremonious manner, — and 
"Medea" meditating the murder of her children. 
Both of these pictures have much merit in design and 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 515 

execution. The general character of these paintings, 
and of those which are left on the walls of Pompeii, 
is light, airy, and sportive. Among the well-known 
statues, is the. colossal Farnese Hercules, a giant in 
strength as well as size, judging from the superabund- 
ance of muscle everywhere visible. When this 
statue was found, it had no legs, but they were 
restored by Michael Angelo. Afterwards the legs 
were found, some fifty miles from the spot where the 
body was discovered. When compared with the fine 
work done by that great sculptor of the Middle Ages, 
the superiority of ancient over modern genius was 
quickly seen. The contrast was very great, and the 
result was, the legs of Michael Angelo soon walked 
away, nevermore to return. 

The celebrated group of the Farnese Bull, which 
stands in the same hall, is a noble work, full of 
dramatic effect. This group was found in the Baths 
of Caracalla at Rome, much injured, and restored by 
Bianchi, a Milanese sculpti*e-. Amphion and Zethes, 
obeying their mother Antiope, bind Dirce to the horns 
of a bull. There are four figures of life-size, besides 
the bull, some dogs, and a child. This is a picture, 
or a drama ; the sculptor has told a story in marble, 
exciting no less interest and pathos than a living 
tragedy. 

One of the rooms in the museum is dedicated to 
the patient labors of the scholars, who occupy them- 



516 A SUMMER JAUNT 

selves with unrolling and deciphering the rolls of 
Egyptian papyri which have been discovered at Her- 
culaneum and Pompeii. Some large cases contain a 
quantity of the rolls as they are found, looking like 
small cylinders of charred wood. Infinite patience is 
requisite in the process of unrolling them. Some of 
those which have been most successfully unrolled, are 
ranged round the room in glass cases. In another 
room are the books which have been translated and 
published. It is a melancholy fact to learn that, after 
all the expense of time and money given to this pur- 
suit of knowledge, nothing of the least value has been 
brought to light. 

The king's palace is a large structure, though not so 
remarkable in its exterior beauty as in its fine situation 
by the sea. The interior is beautiful, containing some 
rare works of art, and paintings by some of the great 
artists. Among so many beautiful things, we will 
mention but one, — a cradle; it is made of tortoise- 
shell, mother-of-pearl, gold, and jewels, so elaborately 
worked that it defies description; it is lined with 
white satin ; two cherubs, standing upon a ground 
covered with delicate flowers and ferns, hold the 
cradle upon their shoulders, while a beautiful guard- 
ian angel poises over the head, with arms outstretched 
as if to ward off all evil ; the cherubs, groundwork, 
and angel, are of a light-colored wood, finely wrought. 
We must mention one painting, which is called " The 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 517 

Eoman Charity," and represents a young woman feed- 
ing her father from her breast, through the prison 
bars, behind which he had been placed to die of starva- 
tion. How beautiful the look of filial love that beams 
in her face, and the expression of alarm lest she 
should be detected by the guard. One can almost 
see the tears run down her cheeks ; and yet upon her 
face there seems to shine a look of joy, as she 

" Offers to old age the flood, 
The milk of his own gift — it is her sire 
To whom she renders back the debt of blood, 
Born with her birth. No ; he shall not expire, 
While in those warm and lovely veins the fire 
Of health and holy feeling can provide 
Great nature's Nile." 

* Shakespeare makes Malcolm say of the Thane of 
Cawdor, that "nothing in his life became him like 
leaving it." Of Pompeii it may be said, that nothing 
in its history is equal in interest to its last scene. The 
fate of the gay Campanian city has been curious. 
Some cities have secured enduring fame by their com- 
mercial opulence, like Tyre; by their art-wonders, 
like Athens ; by their world-wide power, like Rome ; 
or their gigantic ruins, like Thebes. Of others, scarce- 
ly less famous for their wealth and empire, the site is 
almost forgotten ; their very names have perished from 
the memory of men. But this third-rate provincial 
town — the " Newport " or " Long Branch " of the Ro- 



518 A SUMMER JAUNT 

man patricians — owes its celebrity to its destruction. 
Had it not been overwhelmed by the ashes of Vesu- 
vius, the student and the antiquary would never have 
been drawn to it as to a shrine worthy of a pilgrim's 
homage. As a graceful writer has justly remarked, 
the terrible mountain, whilst it destroyed, has also 
saved Pompeii ; and, in so doing, has saved for us an 
ever-vivid illustration of ancient Roman life. The 
year-long labors of the most assiduous German com- 
mentators could never have thrown such an amount of 
light upon the manners and customs of the Eomans, 
upon the works of the great Latin authors, as has been 
accomplished by the spade and pick-axe of the excavat- 
ors of Pompeii. They show us the theatre, the forum, 
and the temple ; the baker's shop," and the gladiator's 
training-school ; the lady's boudoir, and the wealthy 
patrician's tablinum, just as they were when the life 
and motion of the bright city were suddenly arrested, 
and its annals abruptly closed. 

The buried city lies about thirteen miles south from 
Naples, and is now approached by a railway. The 
situation of Pompeii must have been beautiful. The 
city stands on a gentle eminence, surrounded by a val- 
ley, which is here and there ridged by lava streams, 
the product of some eruption of Vesuvius long anterior 
to the earliest historical period. Its outlook is fine 
beyond description. The loveliest of seas spreads its 
ample bosom in full view of its inhabitants, its cooling 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 519 

breezes sweeping over the town without any interven- 
ing object to break their power. Vesuvius is about 
five miles distant, and, after a sleep of many centuries, 
its sides were covered with gardens and vineyards, its 
broken summit crowned with forests of oak and chest- 
nut. It was then an object of beauty and grandeur, 
and a bounteous source of corn and wine ; not, as now, 
a mere shape of awful and unmeasured terror, ever 
watched with uneasy glances, like a sleeping lion or a 
rising thunder-cloud. A navigable river — the Sarnus 
— flowed through the city in a clear and rapid current. 
Blessed with these natural advantages, living in a de- 
licious climate, the inhabitants of Pompeii might well 
have felt that the lines had fallen to them in pleasant 
places. From the height of the still-covered part one 
looks over the whole district exhumed, with its narrow 
streets and roofless houses, and over it all still hangs 
the smoke of Vesuvius. It makes a century seem a 
very short period of time, and man a mere creature of 
a day. This city is a perfect picture of a Roman city 
two thousand years ago. The streets, pavements, 
temples, images, theatres, dwellings, columns, house- 
hold gods, baths, arches, fountains, forums, shops of 
various trades, musical instruments, weapons of war, 
implements of labor, marble and bronze statues, mo- 
saics,' frescos and drawings, dining-rooms, bed-rooms 
and kitchens, with their appropriate furniture ; food 
for the hungry and medicine for the sick; glassware, 



520 A SUMMER JAUNT 

vases, and pottery; gems, medals, and coins; and 
fruits, flowers, and shrubs, are all seen as they were 
on the terrible night when the city was doomed to a 
sudden destruction. The streets are narrow, some not 
being more than eight feet across, but they are straight 
and regular. The pavement is composed of large flat 
stones, or blocks of lava, and the deep ruts cut in 
them by the Roman chariots are clearly seen. At the 
crossings are large stepping-stones for the use of 
pedestrians, so as to keep their feet from the mud. 
Everything in the streets was silent and death-like. 
There were no human beings in the houses, no prom- 
enaders in the streets, — all were deserted. They are 
built of stone and brick, plastered on the outside with 
mortar. An open court is in the centre, and the dif- 
ferent rooms are arranged around in the Oriental style. 
The roofs are nearly all destroyed, having been 
crushed down by the weight of ashes. In the dining- 
rooms the tables are of stone, and many are covered 
with petrified wood. Beds and couches are in the 
sleeping-rooms. In one of the kitchens was found a 
fowl, put in the skillet, and a stew-pan containing 
a small pig for roasting, all prepared eighteen hundred 
years ago. Many beautiful mosaics were found on the 
floors, and elegant frescos on the walls, and they look 
as bright and fresh as if they had only been finished a 
few years. In the " House of Vestals," upon the door- 
sill, is the word "Salve ," " welcome." A mosaic, with 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 521 

the inscription, "Cave Canem" " beware of the dog," is 
near the threshold of the " House of the Tragic Poet." 
In the streets are many shops which still have the 
signs over the doorways. In one there is some marble, 
partly sculptured, with the artist's tools lying around ; 
in another, medicines and surgical instruments ; in a 
third, a marble counter, with liquor-jars behind it, 
and the stains made by the wet glasses on the counter 
prove that this was a drinking-saloon. Then there is an 
eating-house. Meats and delicacies are on the coun- 
ter ; fire-places to keep the soups and messes warm are 
still in the room. The same building contains a grist- 
mill and a bakery. In the baker's shop a batch of 
loaves was found which had been in the oven since the 
24th of August, a. d. 79. These loaves are still to be 
seen in the museum by all tourists. Lovers of " stale 
bread" could here gratify their utmost wish. The 
mill was turned by horse-power. The various temples 
that have been found contain idols made of marble, 
silver and gold. The Temple of Isis is eighty- 
four feet long and seventy-five broad. The ashes of 
victims were found on its altars. The skeleton of a 
priest, sitting at a table, on which was spread a meal, 
is here ; while near the door was another priest, 
holding in his skeleton hand a hatchet, with which he 
had tried to cut his way out of the temple. Over six 
hundred human skeletons have already been exhumed, 
but, fortunately, most of the inhabitants managed to 



522 A SUMMER JAUNT 

escape, having heeded the warning of the burning 
mountain. Only the bones remain of the victims, the 
flesh having mostly perished ; but now and then a little 
tuft of mouldy hair has been found clinging to the 
skull. The positions of the bodies, in every possible 
form of contortion, all indicate a violent death, one of 
suffering and agony. A miser was found grasping a 
bag of gold in his bony hand. In one room, a family- 
group embracing each other in death ; in another, the 
bones of dancing-girls, mingled with the broken in- 
struments of music, can be seen. In another place, 
the skeleton of a cook at his place near the stove in 
the kitchen. One house contained bones scattered 
about, bearing marks of being gnawed, while near by 
lay the skeleton of a clog, showing that the brute had 
survived aud eaten his master. Here is a company 
of young and old fleeing to the sea ; there the remains 
of a mother vainly trying to shelter her three little chil- 
dren from the fiery storm. Outside one of the gates, in 
his sentry-box, stands a Roman soldier, in complete ar- 
mor, with the key of the city-gate in his hand. After 
standing faithfully at his post for seventeen centuries, 
he was discovered " clad in rusty armor, the helmet on 
his empty skull, and the spear in his bony fingers." 
In the city prison, not far distant, were found the 
prisoners, with their " feet made fast in the stocks." 

The ruins of Pompeii, as the old lady said about the 
ruins of the Colosseum, are very much out of repair. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 523 

The walls of the buildings are mostly standing, but the 
roofs and doors, which were constructed of wood, are 
gone, having rotted away in their long exposure to the 
moisture. It looks somewhat like a square in a 
modern city which has been partially destroyed by a 
conflagration. All the excavated rubbish has been re- 
moved, and there is nothing to prove that it had been 
so Ions: buried under a shroud of earth. When we 
reach the end of the excavated portion, and are 
stopped by a sheer wall of gray ashes, some eighteen 
feet high, with trees and vines growing up it, we be- 
gin to comprehend the unique character of the place. 
As is well known, the utmost wrath of the volcano was 
not let loose upon Pompeii. It was not destroyed by 
streams of lava, but by a tempest of ashes, cinders, 
and scoriae, mixed, as is supposed, with liquid mud 
which penetrated and flowed into all the lower parts 
of the houses in a way that dry ashes could not have 
done. 

Pompeii was violently shaken by an earthquake six- 
teen years before the eruption of Vesuvius. Several 
temples, theatres, tombs, and houses, together with 
the colonnade of the Forum were overthrown. Nearly 
every family went from the place ; and it was some 
time before they returned. The' Senate hesitated 
about rebuilding the city, but finally decided to do so. 
The work was in progress when all at once came the 
terrible eruption of 79. The cities of Pompeii and 



524 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Herciilaneuni were wiped out in a single clay, and a 
large region of country was depopulated. The Em- 
peror Titus entertained the idea of cleaning and re- 
storing the city, and sent two Senators to examine the 
ground ; but the magnitude of the work frightened 
the government, and the restoration was never under- 
taken. In time Pompeii became almost forgotten, 
and its site was lost. For more than a dozen centu- 
ries the locality where Pompeii had stood was un- 
known. 

In 1748, under the reign of Charles III. of Spain, 
when the discovery of Herculaneum had attracted the 
attention of the world to that locality, some vine- 
dressers struck upon some old walls, and unearthed a 
few statues. The king ordered some excavations to 
be made in the vicinity ; but it was not until eight 
years later that any* one supposed they were exhuming 
Pompeii. Since that time the work of excavation has 
gone on with a great many intervals of inactivity. 
Whenever the government makes an appropriation, or 
some crowned head or other wealthy personage makes 
an addition to the Pompeian fund, the work is prose- 
cuted ; but as soon as the money is expended the 
work stops. It is now more than a hundred years 
since the excavations began, and yet only a third 
part of the city has been uncovered. It is difficult to 
convey the picture of antique life here presented to 
us ; the narrow, soliclly-paved streets, deeply worn by 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 525 

chariot wheels, with broad stepping-stones ; the Fo- 
rum surrounded by temples ; the houses showing very 
clearly all their internal arrangements, and even their 
ornamentation ; the stores and shops, with their fix- 
tures and conveniences ; and the street of tombs, 
appearing comparatively fresh and well preserved by 
the side of similar streets leading out of Rome. 
These things are comparatively new. They have been 
hermetically sealed up for seventeen hundred years, 
and have hardly been exposed to wind and weather 
longer than Faneuil Hall or the Old South. 

The houses reveal to us pleasing pictures of antique 
life. The garden in the centre, surrounded by a col- 
onnade, with an open top — what could be more 
delightful for such a climate as this ? The rooms were 
small, but large enough, for the people lived in the 
open air, or at the thermae, which were at once baths 
and gymnasiums. 

In the autumn of 1876, new excavations were com- 
menced in Pompeii, and judge of the astonishment 
of the excavators, when, while digging for unknown 
treasures, they came to a second city beneath the one 
known to the reader. It had been buried there perhaps 
centuries before new Pompeii was built, under lava 
and sulphurous matter, and the architects, probably not 
knowing of the fact, erected their houses on top of 
those of their forefathers. It almost seems that art, 
in the first-buried city, was far more advanced than in 



526 A SUMMER JAUNT 

the latter. Marvels of art and architecture have been 
found, and when we enter one of those splendid 
edifices, and admire its paintings and statuary, we are 
struck with admiration for the great accomplishments 
of men who lived centuries before the birth of Christ. 

Herculaneum, properly speaking, was destroyed by 
liquid mud, rather than by burning lava. Since the 
destruction of the city, there have been six different 
overflows of lava, so that for all practical purposes 
the site is covered with this solid material. One great 
difficulty of the excavations exists in the fact that 
whilst Pompeii is covered with ashes, Herculaneum is 
buried beneath a weight of solid lava, which, if not 
exposed to the air, requires two or three years to cool 
off, and then it is almost as hard as flagstone. It is 
easily seen that under such difficulties the excavations 
but slowly progressed ; the more so, as the digging 
has to be done very carefully, so as not to mar the 
relics for which the excavations are carried on. 

In 1863, under a mass of ruins, the excavators dis- 
covered an empty space at whose bottom some bones 
were discernible. They immediately summoned M. 
Fiorelli to the spot, who conceived a felicitous idea. 
He caused some liquid plaster to be poured into the 
hole, and the same operation was renewed at other 
points where similar bones were thought to be visible. 
When the crust of pumice-stone and hard ashes 
which enveloped these objects as in a shroud had 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 527 

been carefully removed, before the eye were revealed 
the moulded forms of four human beings, just as they 
met death on that terrible day. It was a most thrill- 
ing sight to look upon those forms, restored, after a 
sleep of two thousand years, with such skill and per- 
fection as even to be recognized by their friends, were 
they now living. The flesh and clothing having been 
dissipated by time, nothing is left in the mould but 
the skeleton ; and thus a perfect statue of these per- 
sons is obtained, showing their very form, features, 
and drapery, as death met them, almost as perfect as 
though moulded by the sculptor's chisel. One of these 
bodies is that of a woman, near whom ninety-one 
pieces of money, two silver vases, some keys, and 
jewels were discovered. She was making her escape 
with these treasures when overtaken by death in the 
narrow street. You may see her still, stretched upon 
her left side ; you may distinguish her head-dress, the 
texture of her clothes, two rings of silver which she 
wears on her finger ; one of her hands is broken — 
observe the cellular structure of the bone ; the left 
arm is raised and crooked ; the delicate hand is 
clenched, so that the nails, you can see, have entered 
the flesh ; all the body appears swollen and con- 
tracted ; the legs alone, very slender, remain ex- 
tended ; you perceive that she struggled in a pro- 
longed agony ; her attitude is that of suffering, not of 
death. Behind her have fallen a woman and a young 



528 A SUMMER JAUNT 

girl ; the elder — her mother, perhaps — was of hum- 
ble birth, to judge from the size of her ears ; she wore 
on her finger only a ring of iron ; her left leg raised and 
stretched, shows that she too has suffered, though less 
than the noble lady ; the poor lose less in dying ! 
Near her, as if on the same bed, lies her daughter ; 
one is at the head, the other is at the foot, their legs 
being crossed. 

This young girl, almost a child, produces a strange 
impression on the spectator. You can clearly discern 
the texture, the folds of her clothing, the linen which 
covered her arm down to the wrist — some rents here 
and there exposing the skin — and the embroidery of 
the small shoes which encased her feet ; above all, you 
see her last hour, her supreme moment, as if one had 
been present at it, under the wrath of Vesuvius. She 
had raised her robe over her head in terror ; she fell, 
while running, with her face against the ground, and 
being unable to rise, had supported on one arm her 
young and feeble head. One hand is open, as if she 
had held something — perhaps the veil which covered 
her. 

The finger-bones pierce through the plaster ; she 
did not endure any long pain, yet upon her it is most 
pitiful to look; she was not fifteen years old. The 
fourth body is that of a man of gigantic stature. He 
has flung himself on his back to die bravely ; his arms 
and legs are straight and immovable. His clothes are 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 529 

very sharply defined, the tunic which once was new 
and brilliant, the sandals laced to the feet, with the 
irons that fastened the wooden soles still plainly dis- 
cernible. On the bone of one finger he wears a ring of 
iron ; his mouth open, and some teeth are wanting ; his 
nose and cheek-bones are boldly marked ; the eyes 
and hair have disappeared, but the moustache remains. 
There is a martial and resolute air in this fine corpse. 
- At Herculaneum similar discoveries and casts have 
been taken. As soon as the experienced eye of any 
worker recognizes the indications of a mould being 
formed in the lava, labor near that point is stopped, 
and tamping irons are cautiously inserted to make two 
or three rents in the cavity. Then the liquid plaster 
is poured in, and after being left sufficiently long to 
harden, the lava is taken away, and the cast is removed. 
In this way some curious facts have been brought to 
light. Two skeletons were found in close embrace, 
the teeth perfect, indicating youth in its prime, — skel- 
etons of a young man and maid. They had fallen 
together in their flight, and death had wedded them. 
There was a mother with her three children, hand in 
hand, who tried vainly to outrun death. Perhaps the 
mother, singly, might have done it ; but she could not 
leave her children. Plenty of food for sad thought is 
furnished in remembering that at Herculaneum and 
Pompeii, as before remarked, six hundred skeletons 
have already been exhumed ! — many in such positions 



530 A SUMMER JAUNT 

and circumstances as to suggest very touching episodes 
accompanying the final catastrophe. The skeleton of 
a dove was found in a niche overlooking the garden of 
a house. She had kept to her post, notwithstanding 
the shower of hot, death-dealing lava. She sat on her 
nest through all the storm, shielding the egg which 
was taken from beneath her. 

Their feasting halls show too plainly the epicurean 
and gluttonous habits of the people. Here were seen 
the circular tables of fir-wood or maple, or occasion- 
ally of citron-wood, plated with silver, and supported 
on legs of ivory. They were covered by draperies of 
wool or silk, embroidered or striped with gold or 
purple ; and around them were arranged the triclinia 
(three couches) for the accommodation of the guests, 
who did not sit at table, but reclined. Three com- 
monly rested on each couch. They lay with the upper 
part of the body resting on the left arm, the head a 
little raised, the back supported by a cushion, and the 
limbs either slightly bent or stretched out at full 
length. The feet of the first came behind the back of 
the second, and the feet of the latter behind the back 
of the third. A cushion was placed between each 
guest. In front of the couches, which occupied three 
sides of the room, the guide called our attention to a 
marble spout, or drain, in which each guest, after 
tickling his throat with a feather, could throw the con- 
tents of his stomach, and then return with renewed 



THEOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 531 

appetite to the banquet. Many of these halls had 
their rooms for retching, called the Vomitorium ; but 
here the lazy gourmands could fill and unload their 
stomachs without rising from .their couches. Many 
moralists are of opinion that Pompeii, like Sodom and 
Gomorrah, was destroyed because of its wicked- 
ness. 

The discoveries in that city are, many of them, of a 
character not to be described in public prints, especially 
by the aid of the engraver's art, at the present day. 
Some of the ear-drops and breast-pins worn by women 
were curious to behold. Lamps were fashioned in 
form quite as obscene as they were fantastic ; and the 
same may be said of the chandeliers, and of many of 
the utensils used in ordinary life. Curiously engraved 
seals are found that would hardly be suitable to im- 
press to-day on the back of a letter. The frescos, 
paintings, mosaics, and sculptures, and even jewelry, 
discovered in some of the houses, show a terrible 
depravity in morals. Many are so indecent the public 
are not allowed to look at them. The foulest epigrams 
of Martial, the grossest descriptions in Petronius and 
Apuleius, are illustrated to the eye in the remains of 
these cities, in sculptured and pictorial representations 
which cannot be described, hardly alluded to. The 
husband and father in Pompeii saw daily, before his 
own eyes and the eyes of his wife and daughters, sub- 
jects delineated which no man should look upon a 



532 A SUMMER JAUNT 

second time. Whether we regard such things as cause 
or effect, they are equally mournful to contemplate. 

What must have been the tone of conversation and 
sentiment, and the standard of morals in a community 
where such gross indecencies were tolerated, not to 
say favored? There is much in the character and his- 
tory of the Roman people which we may justly admire 
— their energy, their courage, their political wisdom; 
but we are not called upon to overlook moral distinc- 
tions, and insist that the influences which formed their 
civilization were as efficacious in training the individ- 
ual to excellence, as in making the nation powerful. 

No other mountain in the world is so well known 
as Vesuvius. That Medusa of beauty and terror 
combined, is sure to excite the deepest curiosity to 
look down into the chasm from which the cloud of 
smoke ascends, and which has so often vomited forth 
destruction and death. 

In summer, the night is the usual time taken to 
ascend the mountain, on account of the intense heat; 
moreover, the pyrotechnic display of the crater, 
belching forth its flood of light and fire, receives 
additional effect from the surrounding darkness. We 
leave Naples at ten o'clock, and ride in a carriage with 
three horses abreast, a gayly decorated team, to the 
Observatory, which stands in a commanding position 
on a sharp point some distance below the foot of the 
cone. Our course is first along the shore of the bay 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 533 

as far as Resina, on the site of Herculaneum. This 
road, for four or five miles, was a fairy scene. They 
were celebrating the "Assumption of the Virgin. " 
The street and 'buildings, public and private, were 
arched and trimmed with lights in every possible 
form, position, and color; and as we looked down 
upon it, at midnight, from the Hermitage, it appeared 
like a fiery serpent crawling through the city ; or as 
if a river of burning lava from Vesuvius was about to 
overwhelm the town. After getting extra horses at 
Resina, for the trail from the Hermitage to the cone, 
also guides (there were about six guides to each tour- 
ist) and canes, we turn towards the mountain, and 
steadily ascend between vineyards and lava streams, 
by a road of endless twistings and turnings. This 
slope, from the bay to the foot of the cone, looks 
smooth and beautiful from below ; but as we go up, 
we pass through scenes of terrible desolation, where 
the molten torrents have heaped themselves up in a 
thousand monstrous shapes before they cooled, and 
became black, crumbling stone. Frequently these 
masses look like huge piles of charred and half-burned 
human bodies, presenting every variety of form, and 
reminding 'one of a picture of the " Last Judgment," 
by Rubens, but without his glowing color. Arms, 
legs, torsos, and protuding entrails are repeated in a 
horrible phantasmagoria, the more impressive because 
of the spirit of destruction which broods over this 



534 A SUMMER JAUNT 

mountain-side, now and then presenting pictures most 
suggestive of infinite wrath. The Hermitage is about 
twenty-two hundred feet above the bay, commanding 
an extensive view of the city, the bay, and the islands. 
From this point, we take saddle-horses and proceed 
some two miles farther, with an ascent of seven hun- 
dred feet, to the foot of the cone. This part of the 
route is through fields of lava, even rougher and 
wilder and more desolate than the * road below. 
Masses of lava of various shades of brown and gray, 
according to the dates of their deposit, are piled 
upon and tumbled over each other, cleft into seams, 
and twisted into uncouth shapes, — the whole scene 
resembling a field of battle covered with the wrecks and 
fragments of a deadly fight. The only sound heard 
was the roaring and murmuring of the mountain, — a 
heavy, sullen sound, like the plunge of a large body 
into the sea, or the roar of distant artillery, — recur- 
ring at brief and regular intervals ; as if the fire-king 
were warning rash intruders against the peril of ap- 
proach. We shall not forget that ride to the cone. Each 
horse had a rider on his back, and one or two guides 
and beggars hold of his tail, and beating the poor 
animals with their canes at every step over a road 
where to have been thrown would be like falling upon 
a sharp-toothed harrow. We had not been in the 
'saddle for several years, and yet the guides, with their 
clubs and yells, drove our poor beasts at a perfect 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 535 

breakneck speed over the roughest and crookedest 
trail we ever saw on mountain or plaiu. We would 
much prefer to have been on Tarn O'Shanter's mare, 
pursued in her mad flight by the witches. 

The cone itself rises fifteen hundred feet more, a 
mass of volcanic sand and ashes, like fine gravel. 
This is the only fatiguing part of the whole ascent. 
It has to be done on foot ; no horse or mule can climb 
its steep sides ; but the traveller can receive various 
kinds of assistance from the omnipresent and super- 
serviceable guides. 

You can be carried up in a rude chair, fastened on 
poles, which stout mountaineers take on their shoul- 
ders. Or you can have an assistant with a strap, 
pulling before, while another pushes behind. The 
walker sinks into the yielding sand, and getting no 
foothold slips back two-thirds of the step. The cone 
rises at an angle of forty-five degrees, and, at every 
step, you sink, and slip, and slide in the light, yield- 
ing ashes. With not a little experience in climbing 
mountains, and as a pedestrian, nothing we have ever 
known bears any comparison to this. It is like the 
walking we sometimes dream of, when the feet are 
shod with lead, or are glued to the ground, and we 
struggle and strain but never get on. 

We were determined not to accept help either from, 
"puller" or "pusher," unless obliged to do so. Our 



536 A SUMMER JAUNT 

good friend, the Doctor,* struggled bravely for a 
season, but looking back we saw that he was captured 
by a trio of camp followers, one pulling, and the other 
two pushing in the, rear. A big stout fellow held his 
halter at our nose till we had nearly reached the crater, 
imploring us, with all the eloquence he possessed, to 
take his help, assuring us we would never reach the 
summit alone, and that he should charge just as much 
as if he assisted only on the last half or quarter of the 
distance. It took not a little of our strength and 
patience to battle with and ward off the annoying 
guide ; and it was not till we, with a sober and 
earnest face, asked nim how much he would give us to 
help him up the mountain, that he, in anger and su- 
preme disgust, turned and left us. After an hour's 
hard climbing, with much puffing and blowing, and 
many rests, we reached the summit, and looked down 
from the rim of the crater into the horrible chasm, 
which might well be the workshop of Vulcan. The 
crater is an irregular cavity, three or four hundred 
feet deep, and four or five hundred feet in diameter. 
The floor and side walls are incrusted with sulphur 
and various salts, presenting many colors, a mixture 
of dirty white and yellow predominating, though 
green, red, blue, and all the intervening shades are 
mixed in. In the deepest part of the crater, at one 

* Dr. Z. Freeman, of Cincinnati, to whom the Italian Section 
is indebted for many acts of professional skill and kindness. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 537 

side, a small cone has been puffed up. This is thirty 
or forty feet high, open at the top, and from this open- 
ing the greater part of the smoke, fire, and lava 
ascends. Here is the central point of activity, and the 
flames constantly roll up with an eruption more or 
less violent every few seconds, which throws up red- 
hot stones and lava. These eruptions produce a rum- 
bling noise and a trembling sensation, quite apparent 
on the rim of the crater, accompanied by a crashing 
and hissing sound, very like that made by a large wave 
breaking upon a shingly shore. While we stood there 
looking at it, these red-hot masses were thrown in the 
air to a height of two or three hundred feet, and the 
heavy thump with which they fell upon its ashy sides 
had a sound of death in it. Every eruption was fol- 
lowed by a higher burst of flame and a larger volume 
of smoke. Here is a grander show of fireworks and 
pyrotechnic display than America has shown on her 
Fourth of Julys for a hundred years. In a party of 
travellers there are always those who want to dive the 
deepest and stay under the water the longest — who 
are never happy unless they are doing something rash 
and fool-hardy — having a perfect fascination for the 
blood-curdling business, by constantly courting danger 
and death. And so there was nothing to do but we 
must follow our guides down into the crater. We 
were assured there was no possible danger; that no. 
person had ever received the slightest harm, save the 



538 A SUMMER JAUNT 

crazy Frenchman, who immortalized his name, by 
throwing himself into the fiery gulf. This courageous 
fellow acquired a good deal of fame by his enterprise ; 
but it is said his body was never recovered ! As a 
work of cremation, it was pronounced a success. 

We followed the party till we found ourself sinking 
nearly to the knees in the hot, steaming ashes, when 
we turned about, and beat a hasty retreat, concluding 
"distance lent enchantment to the view." No sooner 
had we gained the rim of the crater than voices came 
up, as if from the lower world, summoning us to fol- 
low on, as we were to return by a different route from 
the one ascended, through an orifice created by the 
ocean of lava that has here made its escape. These 
guides, who would sell their lives for a franc (and 
cheat you at that), will walk right into these fiery 
regions, where are falling thick and fast the storm of 
red-hot shot and shell. "The reckless fellows will 
stand where these balls of fire are dropping around 
them, and with one eye on them, will dodge about 
from place to place, to escape being hit, with- the 
utmost sangfroid. Taking a penny from your pocket, 
they will imbed it in the liquid lava, and return the 
picture to you, neatly framed in the lately glowing 
gilt. This you take home with you as a souvenir of 
Vesuvius. 

A view of the Bay of Naples, from the top of Ves- 
uvius, is probably the most charming picture upon 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 539 

earth. We beheld it in the first blush of morning. 
Gold and blue, that brilliant gold of the sun, a flood 
of heavenly sunbeams, and a splendid azure blue is 
lying upon the sea at our feet. That is a sky so mag- 
nificent, so many colored as no other country has ever 
seen. Yonder lies Capri, there Procida, and at a little 
distance, Ischia, all floating upon the water, like so 
many boats, adorned with many-colored flags, full of 
splendor and charm. This wreath of villages and 
cities, washed by the Bay of Naples, glistens like mar- 
ble, and yonder where the sea pierces so deep in the 
land, is Naples. That charming city is surrounded by 
landscapes of the brightest hues ; blue, green, life, joy ! 
The Neapolitans, proud of this gem, call her "a piece 
of Paradise lost upon the earth." But the view about 
and near us was of a very different type. It was one 
of the most solemn and awful desolation — the sublime 
architecture of ruin — peaks, dells, and plains of fune- 
real lava, the beds of extinct fire-torrents, the surface 
everywhere tossed and broken, as if a stormy sea had 
been arrested in a moment and turned into a t solid 
mass. It was the most striking embodiment of death, 
brought into immediate contrast with the most intense 
and fiery life. 

Of all the works of God upon which we have ever 
looked, including Niagara, the Alps, Yosemite, and the 
ocean, by far the most thrilling and impressive was the 
fiery cone of Vesuvius. After the great eruption of 



540 A SUMMER JAUNT 

1872, when over two hundred people lost their lives, 
the volcano was very quiet until about three years ago, 
when another period of activity began, which has con- 
tinued to the present time. 

A railroad to the summit of Vesuvius has been pro- 
jected. Fourteen miles of it will use the ordinary en- 
gine. The steepest part of the road — three miles — 
will have the train drawn over it by a wire rope. The 
plan is to have the whole road covered with a vaulted 
roof of lava to a distance of about one hundred feet 
from the crater, which will, at the same time, divide 
the streaming lava into two tributaries, running on 
either side of the road, which is built of lava also, and 
is elevated. 

Descending the mountain is a very different experi- 
ence from going up, both in the matter of time and 
toil. The first few steps are a little trying to the 
nerves, but you soon gain confidence, and then let 
yourself out. All you need is to stand erect, tip 
back your head, and start off, putting one foot before 
the other, in a dignified sort of way. It took us a full 
hour to climb the cone. We took giant strides, and 
made the descent in eight minutes, making the dust 
and ashes fly, like a herd of buffaloes scampering over 
the prairie. 

When we reached the Hermitage, we thought we 
would settle with our guides, as we were short of time 
to reach the morning train for Rome. The proprietor 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 541 

of the hotel told us the amount of our lawful bill ; 
" though," said he, " they will ask you more, but don't 
pay it." Who ever heard of a traveller getting away 
from an Italian brigand, or guide, without being 
robbed? We tendered them the legal fee, and after a 
deal of haggling, they refused to touch it ; and bawl- 
ing out again and again, " You settle p'lice ; you settle 
p'lice." We were short of time to reach the station, 
and if they followed us there, we were sure to be de- 
tained for examination by the police, and it would be 
all the same to us, whether justly or unjustly, for by 
that means we would lose the train, and fail to con- 
nect with our friends at Rome for the journey to Pisa. 
And so we paid their full claim, and were glad to get 
out of their clutches alive. 

It would be impossible to give an adequate picture 
of the incidents of our drives through and about 
Naples. The long city front presented a thousand 
curious pictures of Naples life. Women, old and 
young, weaving nets — the occupation of a great many 
— and making macaroni, which was hanging in the 
open air to dry, and gradually acquiring color from 
the absorption of dust. Beggars, showing every sort 
of deformity and mutilation, beset us, and beseech us, 
and follow our carriage in troops, especially when the 
rising ground made it easy for them to keep up. 
Among these were old men and women, and whole 
flocks of boys, who had various contrivances for 



542 A SUMMER JAUNT 

attracting attention and exciting interest. One ran 
along by the carriage, turning an occasional summer 
sault ; a dozen played tunes with their mouths and 
noses, making a strident noise through lips and nos- 
trils. Not the least annoying were pcdlers of minerals 
from the mountain, who begged us to buy, and re- 
fused to be put off by a dozen denials. This gauntlet 
of beggars takes away half the pleasure of any 
excursion in this beautiful country. As we drive 
along the street, we passed a group of women and 
children. One of the women was examining the head 
of a companion, and occasionally bringing her thumb- 
nails together with a crack that meant business. On 
our way to Pompeii we saw a good deal of this hunting 
going on, and much combination of rags. The sun 
was warm, and it would have seemed so much better 
if these people had been naked, — in fact, the children 
were half naked, and many of the older people had but 
little more drapery than our first parents, — their 
naked arms, legs, and shoulders looking like ripe 
oranges. Why take the trouble to collect a covering 
of rags, which only attract the dust? Glimpses into 
court-yards displayed trees loaded with oranges. Ex- 
istence here is easy. Wants are few. These lazzaroni 
bask in the sun, and never show energy, except in 
begging. Some of the young beggars grin between 
their whining petitions, and dodge the coachman's 
whip with the most playful humor. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 543 

We were, of course, delighted with Naples and its 
vicinity ("where only man is vile"), but were glad to 
get back to Eome, whose sights and sounds had be- 
come so familiar to us. Its remarkable aqueducts 
seemed to be striding out upon the Campagna to wel- 
come us to home and friends. Eome is cleaner than 
the city by the bay, and its population seems to be of 
a distinctly superior type. The importunities of beg- 
gars and cabmen are here reduced to the Italian mini- 
mum. One may walk the streets of Rome with com- 
parative freedom from annoyance. He need not be on 
constant guard against pickpockets, which cannot be 
said of Naples. There are not the same easy oppor- 
tunities here as at Naples for the artistic " study of the 
partially nude," but one may walk abroad with less 
danger of soiling his boots. 

The stranger may see all there is of special interest 
in Pisa in a few hours. Here are those four buildings, 
"so fortunate in their solitude and their society" — 
the Cathedral, the Campo Santo, the Baptistry, and 
the Leaning Tower. They are quite near each other, 
covering but a few acres of ground, and are all em- 
braced in one glance of the eye. 

Every person knows something of the Leaning 
Tower ; he remembers how it looks, or how it did 
look, pictured in his geography in school-days, in 
company with the Wall of China, the Great Tun of 
Heidelberg, and the Natural Bridge of. Virginia. 



544 A SUMMER JlUNT 

There are other things about it, which no person, now 
living, knows. Is its leaning position the result of 
accident or design ? We will not condense the argru- 
ments that have been advanced on both sides of this 
question. The fact that Italy abounds in odd and 
grotesque specimens of architecture, and that in other 
parts of Italy there are several more leaning towers — 
and the fact that the upper gallery, which is smaller 
than the others, shows a very perceptible inclination 
back towards the perpendicular, as if in some degree 
to counterbalance the deviation of the other part, 
leads us to believe that, notwithstanding the soft and 
spongy nature of the soil, its inclination is the result 
of design, and not of accident. It is seven hundred 
years old, is built of marble, eight stories high ; it 
inclines fourteen feet from the perpendicular, is fifty 
feet in diameter, and one hundred and eighty feet 
high. Instead of an old, black, crumbling fabric, as 
we supposed, it is a light, airy, graceful structure, of 
white marble, and each of its eight stories is encircled 
by fluted columns, with Corinthian capitals, that were 
beautiful when they were new. This singular struc- 
ture is simply a campanile, or bell-tower, appurtenant 
to the Cathedral,' as is the frequent custom in Italy; 
and in its top hangs an ancient chime of bells. We 
ascended by the same stairs which were trodden so 
often by Galileo in going up to make his astronomical 
observations (Pisa was the birth-place of the great 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. • 545 

astronomer) ; in climbing spirally around the hollow 
cylinder in the dark, it was easy to tell on which side 
of the tower we were, from the proportionate steepness 
of tne staircase. One does not feel altogether safe at 
the summit, as he looks down from the high side ; but 
when he crawls down to the lower side and cranes his 
neck out far enough to see the base of the tower, his 
nerves are apt to tremble, and he takes care not to 
"bear down," and tries to "feel very small," lest his 
added weight should cause the lofty tower to totter 
and tumble to the ground. The eye takes in a fine 
view from the top, embracing the vast plain as far as 
Leghorn on one side, with its gardens and grain-fields 
spread out like a map. The blue summits of the 
Apennines shut in the view to the east. To the west 
we could see the distant Mediterranean, whitened with 
the sails of commerce, its broad expanse of water 
stretching away to the horizon — 

" To where the blue of heaven on bluer waves shut down ! " 

It would have been a thrilling sight to see any 
ocean, when one has rambled thousands of miles 
among the mountains and vales of the inland, but to 
behold this sea, of all others, was glorious indeed ! — 
this sea, whose waves wash the feet of Naples, Con- 
stantinople, and Alexandria, and break on the hoary 
shores where Troy, and Tyre, and Carthage have 
mouldered away; whose breast has been furrowed 



546 A SUMMER JAUNT 

by the keels of a hundred nations through more than 
forty centuries — from the first rude voyage of Jason 
and his Argonauts, to the thunders of Navarino, that 
heralded the second birth of Greece. 

The Cathedral is one of those buildings, so common 
in Italy, rich with the spoils of centuries, which would 
justify, and indeed requires, in order to be compre- 
hended, a study of many days. The facade, of five 
stories, is rich and imposing, and the stately bronze 
doors are of admirable workmanship. The dome is 
finely frescoed, and the works of art that adorn the 
walls are numerous and interesting. In the nave 
hangs a chandelier, once beautiful, but now black and 
time-worn, and suspended from the centre of the 
dome above by a black, dirty rope. 

This chandelier sus^ested to Galileo the idea of the 

DO 

pendulum, which has been applied to so much advan- 
tage to the world, and given such an extension to the 
field of science and mechanics. The pulpit is of an 
ancient order, and is a superb structure of richly 
carved marble ; and the whole church is wealthy with 
paintings, mosaics, and sculpture. It is in the form 
of a Latin cross, and is bedecked with ornaments 
magnificent and costly. Candles burn on the altars, 
and music echoes along the deserted aisles. 

The Campo Santo, on the north side of the cathedral, 
w T as, until a comparatively recent date, the cemetery 
of the city. The space enclosed within its marble 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 547 

galleries is filled to the depth of eight or ten feet with 
earth from the Holy Land. The vessels which carried 
the knights of Tuscany to Palestine, in the days of 
the great Saladin, were filled at Joppa, on returning, 
with this earth as ballast, and, on arriving at Pisa, it 
was deposited in the cemetery. It was long supposed 
to have some peculiar power of rapidly decomposing 
the bodies which were deposited in it. The dust of a 
German emperor, among others, rests in this con- 
secrated ground. The frescos on the walls of the 
Campo Santo rank high in the history of art, and are 
now much studied and deservedly valued. 

The Baptistry is a circular building of white mar- 
ble, about a hundred feet in diameter. It is older 
than the Leaning Tower, having been built in the 
eleventh century. It is raised in the form of an 
immense dome, and rises to a height of a hundred 
and seventy-nine feet. The great ornament of the 
interior is the pulpit, by Nicolo da Pisa. * It is hex- 
agonal in form, supported by seven columns, — one 
at each angle, and one in the centre. The central col- 
umn rests upon the back of a man in a crouching 
posture, with an eagle in his right hand. The columns 
at the angles are supported by animals, — lions, tigers, 
and griffins. The capitals of the columns are highly 
carved, with a very sharp and delicate chisel. Over 
the columns is a cornice which runs round the pulpit, 
and at each angle above are three small columns, 



548 A SUMMER JAUNT 

between which are panels, decorated with bas-reliefs 
admirably executed. One, especially, representing 
the Last Judgment, is a miracle of patience and skill. 
The baptismal font is of purest Parian marble. It is 
in the middle, and is large enough fur a dozen persons 
to occupy at one time ; indicating that immersion was 
the form of baptism here practised. 

But the most remarkable thing about this building 
is its wonderful musical echo. Our guide stationed 
himself at the side of the font and sang a few notes. 
After a moment's pause, they were repeated aloft in 
the dome, but with a sound of divine sweetness — as 
clear and pure as the clang of a crystal bell. Another 
pause, and we heard them again, higher, fainter, 
and sw r eeter, followed by a dying note, as if they 
were fading far away into heaven. It seemed as if an 
angel lingered in the temple, echoing with his melo- 
dious lips the common harmonies of earth. Even 
thus does the music of good deeds, hardly noted in 
our grosser atmosphere, awake a divine echo in the 
far world of spirit. 

On our way from Pisa to Genoa we skirt the shores 
of the Mediterranean for many miles, welcoming the 
cool, sweet breath of its western breeze. We pass 
through eighty-two tunnels, aggregating about twenty- 
five miles, the longest being from five to seven miles. 
The scenery, for much of the way, is of the most rav- 
ishing beauty — the sea on one side and the olive-clad 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 549 

hills on the other. The hills are often crowned by 
towns or castles, and the valleys are highly cultivated. 
The curving coast offers many opportunities for pros- 
pect and retrospect. 

Genoa still merits its old title, "The Superb." It is 
difficult to imagine a city more picturesquely situated. 
The site is an amphitheatre, looking to the south and 
west, and the houses rise tier on tier against the faces 
of the hills, the summits of which are crowned by 
castles and forts. The harbor is a semi-circular bay, 
two and a half miles in diameter, into which project 
two long moles, one from each side, adding to its 
security. < The buildings are generally of marble, 
very high and imposing. A succession of streets of 
fair width form a sort of boulevard around the oldest 
part of the city, and on these are the palaces and 
finest buildings. The other streets are very narrow, 
some of them mere cracks between the lofty walls. 
The architecture of the palaces is striking and grandi- 
ose. As at Florence, these buildings are significant 
of the stormy days of the republic, when a nobleman's 
palace needed to be half castle. We are impressed 
here by the great number of them, by the rugged 
strength of their facades, and by the grace and rich- 
ness of their pillared courts. These magnificent dwell- 
ings attest the former importance of the city, and the 
wealth and pride of the citizens. Some of them have 
fine gardens, running up the faces of the hills on ter- 



550 A SUMMER JAUNT 

races, and enriched by fountains, temples, and arcades. 
Nearly all have galleries of good pictures, among 
which are found some of the best examples of the 
great masters. Among them may be mentioned the 
Eoyal Palace, the Brignole, the Balbi, the Marcello 
Durazzo, the Pallavicini, and the Municipio, or Town 
Hall, the latter containing numerous reminiscences o'f 
Columbus. The guide was delighted to show us "ze 
letter written b} r Christopher Colombo! — write it 
himself ! — write it wis his own hand ! " also the afore- 
said gentleman " ora a bust/" The Palazzo Doria and 
the Villa Rosazza have delightful gardens, in which 
millions must have been expended. Many of the 
churches are sumptuous edifices, with fine sculptures 
and paintings. Among the best are San Lorenzo (the 
cathedral), San Ambrogio, San Maria di Carignano, 
and the Annunziata. On an eminence commanding 
charming views, is the public garden, called Acqua 
Sola, which presents a lively scene in the afternoon. 
A long, high wall, with arcades, separates a part of 
the harbor from the houses of the city. The top of 
it, forty feet wide, smoothly paved with marble, is a 
pleasant promenade in the morning and evening. It 
is also used as a skating-rink with rolling skates. 
Genoa has a double line of fortifications : the first, a 
strong wall, enclosing the city itself, the second 
making a wide sweep and extending over the high 
surrounding hills, the tops of which are provided with 



THROUGH THE OLD WOULD. 551 

castles and entrenchments. This outer line, built two 
hundred and fifty years ago, has been recently 
strengthened, though for what purpose it is hard to 
see, as the natural approaches to Genoa by land are 
very difficult. Genoa is at present a flourishing city, 
the most important, commercially, of all Italy. Its 
foreign commerce is nearly as much as that of Boston, 
and it has a large coastwise trade. Its harbor pre- 
sents a busy scene, the shipping being crowded into a 
comparatively small compass, and the loading and 
unloading are done by lighters. 

One of the most interesting things for a traveller to 
see at Genoa, is the Campo Santo, or cemetery, a 
short distance outside the walls. * Of course it is too 
artificial, like all Italian cemeteries, but it is the best 
of its kind. A quadrangle is enclosed by graceful 
arcades, very rich in mortuary sculpture. Some of 
the hundreds of angels and allegorical figures are very 
effective, to say nothing about the portrait busts, of 
which there are a great number. With such an oppor- 
tunity, the sculptors of Genoa, a very clever school, 
ought to develop a high order of talent. But, after 
all, how much more satisfying are the rural ceme- 
teries which have not been converted into marble- 
yards. 

One American invention, the horse railroad, has 
recently been adopted in Genoa, and very American 
cars run along by the palaces of the Doges, and the 



552 A SUMMER JAUNT 

handsome monument of Columbus. The great dis- 
coverer was almost a Genoese, 'having been born near 
here, at Cogoleto, within the province ; and his memory 
is held in high esteem by his countrymen of to-day. 

While in Genoa, we took a sail one evening in the 
harbor. The rowers stood round the wharves in 
little armies, waiting to earn a franc. The night was 
lovely, the stars were bright, and the moon hung like 
a beacon-light over the walls and marble palaces of 
the city. The streets and palaces were brilliantly 
illuminated, and rising tier on tier to the lofty hills 
encircling the city, the whole town glowed and blazed 
like a coronet of diamonds. It was a dream of our 
life to sail on the Mediterranean and up the castellated 
Rhine. And here, on that sweet summer night, 
tossed on the gently swelling waves, under the soft 
radiance of the shining stars, we found the romance 
and fruition of that dream. 

Although Turin is the third city in Italy, in size 
(it has a population of 212,000), there is but little of 
interest to detain the traveller. It has some fine 
bridges, that on the Dora forming a single arch ; large 
squares and broad streets, laid out at right angles ; 
the monuments and palaces in the new town ; and its 
delightful promenades bordered by villas. 

A little incident occurred at this place, which, at 
one time, threatened a sensation. One evening as we 
were strolling along the street, near our hotel, we 



THROUGH THE OLD WORUD. 553 

observed an excited crowd a few rods distant. We 
hurried to the spot, not thinking in the least that one 
of our number was a party to the agitated throng. 
Miss W.,* one of our young ladies, had had her 
pocket picked, and discovering the thief in the act, 
she seized him by the collar and charged him panto- 
mimically (not being able to speak the Italian tongue), 
with the theft. He stoutly denied taking the purse, 
and again and again asserted his innocence. Our con- 
ductor, who could " wrestle with the vernacular," was 
called in to help one of his party out of trouble. He 
gave his countryman a friendly hearing and accepted his 
version of the affair. "He is a citizen, and he would 
not rob a lady," — oh, no, of course not! But our 
" unbelieving friend" had great faith in her eyes — she 
believed them, even against the word of the accused 
and his dozen confederates, with the good opinion of 
our conductor thrown in. "I saw him snatch it from 
my pocket, and one of them now has it," again reiter- 
ated the brave lady. This was translated by our con- 
ductor to the thieves, and fearing that one of their 
number would soon be in durance vile, the purse was 
soon passed into the hands of its owner, though not 
by the one who niched it from her pocket. So much 
for the brave girl who had faith in her eyes. May 
h^r faith be increased. 

* Miss I. D. S. Willis, Hannibal, Mo., who remains abroad two 
years, for lingual accomplishments. 5 /i £ vv <~* S 7i ht*-e -e 

TA lake.*'] l^^ & v<^y &*t*A£ £t*i. 



554 



A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER Xin. 



THE FIRST DIVISION— THROUGH FRANCE, ENGLAND, ETC. 

From Turin to Paris — London Again — Oxford and its Colleges — 
The Students — The Martyr's Memorial — Wesley and Wickliffe 
— The Bodleian Library — Stratford-on-Avon — Shakespeare's 
Birthplace — Interesting Relics — Anne Hathaway's Cottage — 
To Ireland, via Birmingham and Holyhead — Dublin and its 
Sights — Irish Jaunting-Cars — Departure for Home. 



In our long twenty-two hours ride from Turin to 
Paris, we felt the discomforts of the European cars, 
and the lack of the comfortable American sleeping- 
car. There was much fun and merriment in the 
" happy families " before we adjusted our extemporized 
couches, and various conditions of rest for the night. 
Things were " stirred up " generally, and the frisky 
fleas of Italy and France were doubly lively; they 
hopped and skipped about like the waltzing water- 
bugs, without the least regard to the comfort of weary 
and sleepy passengers. Some took their traps and 
made couches upon the floor ; others partially reclined 
upon the seats, pillowing their heads upon their neigh- 
bors' shoulders ; while others sat bolt upright, and 
slept as best they could, That was a memorable 
night, when we reclined or sat, leaned or lounged 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 555 

about, in helter-skelter fashion, like a palpitating mass 
of hog's-head cheese, or like poultry going to market 
promiscuously in a bag. 

Of our arrival in Paris, — of our sight-seeing and 
rambles in that gayest and most beautiful capital in all 
the world, — witnessing its follies and its beauties, by 
daylight and gas-light; of our visit to the Exposition, 
the manufactory of the Gobelin tapestries, the porce- 
lain works at Sevres, St. Cloud, Versailles, its old 
palace of Louis X1Y. , with its artistic decorations and 
stately courts, its incomparable park, with its par- 
terres and avenues, its gardens and groves, its lakes, 
basins, and fountains, — adorned with Tritons, 
nymphs, Apollos, Neptunes, syrens, dolphins, and 
dragons, — all the divinities of fable, the Dancing 
Faun, the intoxicated Bacchus, the superb Juno, and 
the tearful Latona, all spouting high in air the snowy 
waters; of all these, is it not written by the other 
scribes in The Book of The Chronicles of The Tour- 
jee-ans ? And as we have occupied so much space on 
other fields of description, we will not take that which 
properly belongs to others. 

After leaching London, we visited several places 
which our limited first visit did not permit us to see : 
among them were the Kensington Museum, the Albert 
Memorial and Royal Albert Hall, and the National 
Gallery. We had our choice, here, of returning via 
Glasgow, as we came, or of going by Windsor, Ox- 



f 

556 A SUMMER JAUNT 

ford, Warwick, and Stratford ; and then crossing the 
Irish Sea to Dublin, and joining the other portion of 
the party on the steamer at Londonderry. Of course 
the most of us chose the latter route, and Rev. Perry 
Marshall was chosen as our conductor and manager, 
and right well and satisfactorily did he fill the place. 
Our time did not allow us to stop and examine old 
Windsor Castle and its most attractive surroundings ; 
but we were offered a fine view of it from the train, 
a mile and a half away. Between Windsor and 
Oxford, we had pointed out to us the home and estate 
of Lord Beaconsfield, the Prime Minister. 

It was vacation season when we visited Oxford, 
and we missed the nearly three thousand students who 
are receiving the drill and discipline which few institu- 
tions of the world offer. The absence of the students 
gave all the better opportunity to see and examine the 
workshop where such scholarship is turned out, as 
we see in Gladstone, Goldwin Smith, French, Stanley, 
Froude, Kingsley, Ruskin, Lord Derby, and Tenny- 
son. 

The stone of which the Oxford College buildings are 
constructed is, unfortunately, a very soft one, and the 
present ragged, scarred, and peeled condition of those 
beautiful structures, can hardly be imagined. Some of 
them are completely honey-combed. In many instances 
they are rebuilding, or rather making over the edifice, 
stone for stone, in exactly the old style and pattern. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 557 

One is tempted to lay irreverent hands upon the smooth- 
worn monster brass nose of the gate of Brasenose Col- 
lege. It is said, however, that the name of the college 
has nothing to do with " Brass " ; but was derived from 
"Brasin-hous," the ancient name of "Brew-house." 
Bishop Heber and Rev. F. W. Eobertson were 
students of this college ; also Rev. Henry Carpenter, 
the successor of Starr King, and present pastor of 
Hollis Street Church, Boston. 

Taken as a whole, there is nothing in Oxford that 
quite equals Christ College, at the termination of 
High Street, for the number of members upon its 
foundation, its great names, its courts, and its famous 
" Hall," one hundred and fifteen feet by forty. This 
college, built by Cardinal Wolsey on the scale of his 
own magnificence, is par eminence, the nobleman's 
college. These tufted gentlemen occupy, at meal- 
time, a raised platform by themselves ; and a fee is 
required to see this superb feasting-hall. 

To spend a summer afternoon sauntering along the 
broad walk of Christ College, looking out upon the 
great smooth meadows and shining Cherwell on one 
side, and beautiful Merton College, with its masses 
of splendid trees and gardens on the other, with 
now and then the deep tones of the big bell in M Tom 
Tower " filling the air with solemn sound, Oxford 
would seem to be a place in which to forget the 
present, to lose the future, and to walk and muse life 



558 A SUMMER JAUNT 

away in the dim cloisters of the past. Our first 
impression of Oxford still remains, that it is the 
palace of the scholar, — his paradise of literary rest, 
his final reward, — rather than a place to make vigor- 
ous scholars and workingmen. 

Some one has classified the students of Oxford into 
1, the reading men; 2, the idle slow men; 3, the 
good kind of fellows ; 4, the idle fast or do-nothing 
men; 5, the regular fast man. Nevertheless, we can 
but acknowledge the superior thoroughness of Eng- 
lish scholarship ; its richer culture and more perma- 
nent and substantial depth. What it does it does 
well. Those who are scholars are genuine ones. 
They are inspired with a true love of sound learning 
which never leaves them. 

But we must speak of a spot consecrated by some- 
thing far dearer and nobler than scholastic learning, 
valuable as that is to society; viz., "The Martyrs' 
Memorial," erected on the spot where the three chief 
martyrs of the Information, Cranmer, Latimer, and 
Eidley, suffered. This beautiful monument marks, as 
it were, the spiritual centre of England. It is such 
spots as these — the "Martyrs' Tree "at Brentwood, 
the place where Hooper was burned at Gloucester, 
and Smithfield Market — which make England holy 
ground. 

We visited Lincoln College, where John Wesley 
was educated. In an entrance hall is an old oaken 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 559 

pulpit, in which this renowned founder of the Metho- 
dists preached his first sermon. It has not been used 
for a long time. It is not in the chapel, yet stands 
where it generally stood in old times, reminding us of 
the period when the chapel or church was for " ser- 
vices " before altars ; preaching was only occasional, 
the pulpit being brought in when it was wanted. The 
pulpit has not been "wanted" for some time, in one 
sense ; but it may be doubted if the Oxonians of to- 
day can hear from any other pulpit discourse more 
impressive than that which may still strike an attentive 
ear from that silent pulpit in the hall. Lincoln Col- 
lege was founded expressly to wage war against the 
ideas of WicklhTe. Its chief literary treasure now is 
the manuscript of Wickliffe's Bible ; its chief fame 
is to have produced the great man of whom the 
" morning star " was forerunner — John Wesley. We 
visited the famous Bodleian Library, which has over 
three hundred thousand printed volumes, besides 
thirty thousand choice manuscripts. We saw here 
the book of " Enoch," brought by Bruce from Abys- 
sinia, a hundred years ago ; also the lantern used by 
Guy Fawkes in his attempt to blow up the Parliament 
Buildings. In this library we saw the "History of 
Troy," — the first book printed in the English language, 
about 1472, — and the first English Bible, printed by 
Miles Coverdale, in 1535. We visited the "Theatre," 
or hall, where all the honorary degrees of the Univer- 



560 A SUMMER JAUNT 

sity are conferred, prize poems read, etc. In this hall 
Bishop Heber, at his graduation, recited his "Pales- 
tine." At Oxford there are twenty-one colleges and 
four halls. Cardinal Wolsey was once purser of 
Magdalen College ; and from the tower overlooking 
the square a Latin anthem is sung on the first day of 
May, at five o'clock in the morning, in lieu of the 
mass that used to be sung in papal times. 

After leaving the literary and classic old town of 
Oxford, we proceeded to that most interesting spot to 
all who speak the English tongue, the birth-place of 
the Bard of Avon. We have no special sympathy 
with the gushing, sentimental traveller who bottles up 
his emotions and exclamations like soda-water, and is 
ever ready to uncork and let them "fizz" on every 
suitable occasion. But we must confess that we felt a 
strange thrill at our heart as we rode into the quaint 
old town where the one Shakespeare of the world 
lived, and loved, and died. We proceeded first to the 
house in Henley Street, where Shakespeare was born, 
and where he lived much of his life. The house where 
he died is no longer standing. The one where he was 
born is a rather large, old-fashioned stone house, with 
two gables fronting the street, two stories high, and 
with a pointed roof. Over the front door is a pointed 
portico, and the whole exterior of the house indicates 
a certain amount of both taste and prosperity in the 
Shakespeare family. But inside it is plain and rough- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 5G1 

ly finished, — a house that seemed utterly lacking in 
comfort. In the room where the immortal dramatist 
was born, the poet Wordsworth once tried to make 
some verses. The rough draft of them has been pre- 
served with great care, and is framed under glass. 
First were the three following lines : — 

" The house of Shakespeare's birth we here may see ; 
That of his death we find without a trace. 
Vain the inquiry, for immortal he " — 

Here came a pause. Evidently this beginning was 
not satisfactory to the poet, for he drew his pen 
through it to cross it out; and then, taking a fresh 
start, proceeded thus : — 

" Of mighty Shakespeare's birth the room we see ; 
That where he died, in vain to find we try. 
Useless the search, for all immortal he, 
And those that are immortal never die." 

The kind old ladies who now have charge of the 
house, and with so much pride and courtesy show it to 
the visitor, are quite epigrammatic in their remarks, 
worthy the literary lord whose domain they guard. 
As one of them took us into the room of which we are 
speaking, in a thin, cracked voice, she said : " There 's 
not much to see here, but a great deal to feel,''' 
"Walter Scott wrote his name here, and many less 
famous, that fall with the whitewash." To our "un- 



562 A SUMMER JAUNT 

believing friend " who " doubted " about any such 
man as Shakespeare having ever lived, intimating that 
Bacon wrote his plays : " Why could n't Sliakespeare 
be born as well as any other man ? " emphatically ex- 
claimed the oracular old lady. One side of the chim- 
ney-piece here is called "The Actor's Pillar," so 
tnickly is it covered w T ith the names of actors, Edmund 
Kean's signature being among them, and still clearly 
legible. As before stated, on one of the window- 
panes Walter Scott cut his name with his diamond 
ring (this was in obedience to a request, as there was 
then no autograph-book in the house), and all the 
panes are scratched with signatures, making you think 
of Douglas Jerrold's remark on bad Shakespearian 
commentators, that they resemble persons who write 
on glass with diamonds, and obscure the light with a 
multitude of scratches. One room, called the Museum, 
is devoted to Shakespearian curiosities, or relics, one 
of which is a school-boy's desk (" illustrated with 
cuts"), in which the illustrious scholar studied and 
ivhittled w T hen a schoolboy. Boys were then, very 
evidently, as is the present custom, in the habit of 
using their jackknives on their benches. You can sit 
in his antique study-chair, if you like, and think un- 
utterable things. There is certainly no word that can 
even remotely suggest the feeling with which you are 
there overwhelmed. Here, too, is his writing-desk, a 
battered old affair, which, in its first estate, was a very 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 5G3 

humble and homely article of furniture ; but how it 
made one's heart beat to sit down before it, and think 
what words had been written there, — words which 
must endure till this round world itself shall pass 
away ! In a glass case is seen the seal-ring which 
Shakespeare wore ; also the one worn by Dr. Hall, 
who married his favorite daughter. Here was a cast 
of the great dramatist's face, taken after his death, and 
here was a portrait of him, taken when he was between 
thirty-eight and forty. It is poor and crude enough 
as a work of art, and faulty in execution ; but the 
artist had, somehow, managed to prison something of 
the wonderful soul of his subject. The brow is the 
kindliest ever known, and something strong and reso- 
lute, and yet very calm, looks out of those painted 
eyes. The portrait is kept under lock and key, every 
night, in an iron safe. It is much too valuable to be 
trusted without the greatest precautions. At the back 
of the cottage, now isolated from all contiguous struct- 
ures, is a pleasant garden, and, at one side, is a cosey, 
luxurious little cabin — the home of order and of pious 
decorum — for the ladies who are custodians of the 
Shakespeare house. If you are a favored visitor, you 
may receive, from this garden, at parting, all the 
flowers, prettily affixed to a sheet of purple-edged 
paper, that poor Ophelia names, in the scene of her 
madness : " There 's rosemary, that 's for remembrance ; 
pray you, love, remember ; and there is pansies, that's 



564 A SUMMER JAUNT 

for thoughts ; there 's fennel for you, and columbines ; 
there 's rue for you ; there 's a daisy. I would give 
you some violets, but they withered all when my 
father died." The minute knowledge that Shakespeare 
had of plants and flowers, and the loving appreciation 
with which he describes pastoral scenery, are explained 
to the rambler in Stratford by all that he sees and hears. 
There is a walk across the fields to Shottery, Anne 
Hathaway's cottage, which the poet must often have 
taken in the days of his courtship, whereon the feet of 
the traveller are buried in wild flowers and furrow- 
weeds. The high road to that hamlet, also, passes 
through rich meadows, and lands teeming with grain, 
flecked everywhere with those brilliant scarlet poppies, 
which are so radiant and bewitching in the English 
landscape. To have grown up amid such surround- 
ings, and, above all, to have experienced amidst them 
the passion of love, must have been, with Shakespeare, 
the intuitive acquirement of most ample and most 
specific knowledge of their manifold beauties. It 
would be hard to find a sweeter rustic retreat than is 
Anne Hathaway's cottage, even now. The tall trees 
embower it ; and over its porches, and along its pictur- 
esque, irregular front, and on its thatched roof, the 
woodbine and the ivy climb ; and there are the wild 
roses and the maiden's blush. For the young poet's 
wooing no place could be fitter than this !• They show 
you, in that cottage, an old settle by the fireside, 



THROUGH THE OLD WOELD. 565 

whereon the lovers may have sat together. In the 
rude little chamber next the roof, an antique carved 
bedstead, which Anne Hathaway once owned, and on 
which Shakespeare is believed to have slept when he 
was first married. People say he could n't have loved 
her very much, because he only left her his second- 
best bed in his will. He must have loved her in the 
days when he went to woo her in that humblest of all 
humble cottages, It is the poorest little place, — 
scarcely more than a cabin, — with thatched roof, the 
roughest walls ; and, inside, rough stone floors, and 
jagged-looking beams overhead. 

This, as we know, continued to be Anne's home for 
many years of her married life ; the husband being 
absent in London, and sometimes coming down to 
visit her at Shottery. " He was wont," says Aubrey, 
" to go to his native county once a year." The last 
surviving descendant of the Hathaway family — Mrs. 
Taylor — lives in the house now, and welcomes with 
homely hospitality the wanderers from all lands who 
seek, in a sympathy and reverence most honorable to 
human nature, the shrine of Shakespeare's love. 

On that delicious summer evening, which is forever 
memorable in our life, the golden glory of the west- 
ering sun burns on the gray spire of Stratford Church, 
and on the ancient graveyard below, wherein the 
mossy stones lean this way and that, in sweet and 
orderly confusion, and on the peaceful avenue of lin- 



566 A SUMMER JAUNT 

dens, and on the burnished waters of silver Avon. 
The tall, arched, many-colored windows of the church 
glint in the evening light. A cool and fragrant wind 
is stirring the branches and the grass. The small 
birds, calling to their mates, or sporting in the wanton 
pleasure of their airy life, are circling over the church 
roof, or hiding in little crevices of its walls. On the 
vacant meadows across the river stretch away the long 
and level shadows of the pompous elms. Here and 
there, upon the river's brink, are pairs of what seem 
lovers, strolling by the reedy marge, or sitting upon 
the low tombs, in the quiet evening. The funeral 
train of Shakespeare, on that dark day when it moved 
from New Place to Stratford Church, had but a little 
way to go. The river, surely, must have seemed to 
hush its murmurs, the trees to droop their branches, 
the sunshine to grow dim, as that sad procession 
passed ! His grave is under the gray pavement of 
the chancel, within the rail, and his wife and his two 
daughters are buried at his side. There, " after life's 
fitful fever, he sleeps well." It is a fine old church, 
as are most of the English country churches, its oldest 
portion dating as far back as 1140 ; and not the Poet's 
Corner in Westminster Abbey, where sleep so many 
of the illustrious, is so interesting to us as this rustic 
church, where rests the mightiest dead of all. 

The pilgrim who reads, upon the gravestone itself, 
those rugged lines of grievous entreaty and awful 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 5(57 

imprecation which guard the poet's rest, feels no 
doubt that he is listening to his living voice, for he 
has now seen the enchanting beauty of the place, and 
he has now felt what passionate affection it is able to 
inspire. Feeling, and not manner, would naturally 
have commanded that sudden, agonized supplication 
and threat. Nor does such a pilgrim doubt, when 
gazing on the painted bust, above the grave, that was 
made by Gerard Johnson, the stone-cutter, that he 
beholds the authentic face of Shakespeare. It is 
not the heavy face that the portraits represent it. 
There is a rapt, transfigured quality in it which these 
do not convey. It is thoughtful, austere, and yet 
benign. Shakespeare was a hazel-eyed man, with 
auburn hair, and the colors that he wore were scarlet 
and black. Being painted, and also being set up at a 
considerable height on the church wall, the bust does 
not disclose what is sufficiently perceptible in a cast 
from it, — that it is, in fact, the literal copy of a cast 
from the dead face. One of the cheeks is a little 
swollen, and the tongue is very slightly protruded, 
and is caught between the lips. 

It need not be said that the old theory, that the 
poet was not a gentleman of great consideration in his 
own time and place, falls utterly and forever from the 
mind when you stand at his grave. No man could 
have a more honorable or sacred spot of sepulture ; 
and while it illustrates the profound esteem of the 



568 A SUMMER JAUNT 

community in which he lived, it testifies to the high 
religious character by which that esteem was con- 
firmed. " I commend my soul into the hands of God, 
my Creator, hoping and assuredly believing, through 
the only merits of Jesus Christ, my Saviour, to be 
made partaker of life everlasting." So wrote Shake- 
speare, in his last will, bowing in humblest reverence 
the mightiest mind — as vast and limitless in the 
power to comprehend as to express — that ever wore 
the garments of mortality. 

After leaving the church, we strolled along the 
shores of the Avon, past the Memorial Building which 
is being erected to his memory on the banks of the 
river. On our return we paid our respects to the 
Red Horse Inn, where Washington Irving stayed 
when in Stratford. 

They keep the room very much as it was when he 
left it ; for they are proud of his gentle genius and 
grateful for his commemorative words. In a corner 
stands the old-fashioned arm-chair in which he sat on 
that night of memory and of musing, which he has 
described in the " Sketch-Book. " A brass plate bear- 
ing his name is affixed to it ; and the visitor observes, 
in token of its age anp! service, that the hair-cloth of 
its seat is considerably torn and frayed. Every 
American pilgrim sits in this chair, and reads the 
memorials of Irving that are hung upon the walls ; 
and it is no small comfort there to reflect that our own 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 569 

illustrious countryman — whose name will be remem- 
bered with honor as long as true literature is prized 
among men — was the first, in modern days, to dis- 
cover the beauties and to interpret the poetry of the 
birth-place of Shakespeare. 

As we strive, after many days, to call back, and to 
fix in words the impressions of that sublime experience, 
the same awe falls upon us now as fell upon us then. 

Nothing else upon earth, — no natural scene, no 
relic of the past, no pageantry of the present, — can 
vie with the shrine of Shakespeare, in power to im- 
press, to humble, and to exalt the devout spirit that 
has been nurtured at the fountain of his transcendent 
genius. 

But little more of our story remains to be told. 
We left Stratford in the early evening via Birmingham 
and Holyhead, crossing St. George's Channel, and 
reached Dublin the following morning. 

Most of us charter the jaunting-car for our drive 
through the streets of Dublin. The carriages of every 
country are peculiar ; but the Irish jaunting-car is the 
most peculiar, the drollest, craziest piece of loco- 
motive furniture ever invented. It is eminently Irish, 
every fragment of it, — smacks of the brogue, — and it 
seems a ridiculous " bull " to get into it at all. It is a 
shaky, oblong box, mounted upon two rickety wheels, 
about three feet apart, unfolding in the middle length- 
wise, into two seats that hang over outside the wheels, 



570 A SUMMER JAUNT 

where you sit in pairs, back to back, with your rollick- 
ing driver in front, flogging his raw-boned horse to 
the top of his speed, turning sharp corners, plunging 
through the crowded streets of the city, and rattling 
over the rough roads in the country, at the same head- 
long pace. And then the politeness with which your 
Jehu touches his hat and hopes " your honor is satis- 
fied with the dhrivin', sure," and will "bestow a small 
thrifle to spend in dhrinkin' your health," is quite 
inimitable. The Blarney Stone none of us kissed, as 
several, it would seem, had done so already, and there 
was no room for the "blarney" of others. 

We visited the varjous objects and points of inter- 
est about the city, — Nelson's monument, the birth- 
places of Wellington and Tom Moore, the home of 
O'Connell, Trinity College, and Dublin Castle 

We went into St. Patrick's Cathedral, at one end of 
whose aisle is a little old crypt, all that remains of 
that portion of the church which is said to have been 
built in a. d. 540. 

We were in Ireland just long enough to ascer- 
tain that it is inhabited by real genuine Pats and 
Bridgets, — the land of potatoes, whiskey, and rebel- 
lions. It is not strange that this people, which has 
produced so many patriots and orators, should chafe 
under the rule of a foreign yoke. It is a beautiful 
island, — the northern portion often reminding us of the 
hills and mountains of Scotland. The climate here is 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 571 

so moist that every stone fence, rock, and cliff, is clad 
in some kind of verdure. Here in early autumn, when 
the American landscape is often faded and brown, it 
was fresh and velvety, — the old trees circled round 
with the leafy ivy, and the hedges in their light-green 
livery of spring. 

Leaving Dublin towards evening, we reached Lon- 
donderry at a late hour of the night. Early in the 
morning, we boarded a small steamer, and, after a 
pleasant two-hours' sail down Lough Foyle, we joined 
our friends on the " Anchoria," off Moville. A few of 
the division remained behind, — at London, Paris, 
and Italy, — some to visit the Holy Land, others for 
study and general sight-seeing in Europe. 

A European tour, to most of us, is an event in our 
lives. But how different the result to different tastes 
and minds. To some, it is a kind of inspiration, or 
new birth; a sort of education obtained in no other 
way. To most persons, it broadens the mind, en- 
larges the sympathies, and enables them to break 
away from the petty narrowness and dull routine of 
their every-day life. And yet it is marvellous how 
little some persons add to their intellectual stock-in- 
trade by a foreign tour. They can say they have been 
to Europe, and that is all they have to show for it. 

" Some minds improve by travel : others, rather 
Resemble copper wire, or brass, 
Which gets the narrower by going farther." 



572 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Emerson uttered the truth in a nutshell, when he 
said, " One finds in Europe what he brings to it," or 
words to that effect. The capacity to see and grow 
does not depend upon what we usually mean by 
education. We have seen travellers, who, with great 
opportunities for culture, by travel and otherwise, 
have only succeeded in narrowing their views, and 
intensifying their egotism. And their wives, — well, 
what they have obtained by foreign travel, they have 
bought at the shops. 

On the other hand, how many people we have met who 
are making the most of all they saw in the Old World, 
and by whose experience American society will be 
made the richer and sweeter. And even those people 
who get little but from the shops, take home some- 
thing that will bear fruit. 

We look back upon our tour, and its experiences, 
as upon a pleasant dream. The sights we have seen, 
the emotions we have felt (not to be expressed), and 
the delightful acquaintances we have formed, will 
make us richer and happier all our life-time. Many 
of the best little things of the trip, — the bright say- 
ings and doings, — cannot be reproduced in a book; 
they are preserved and stored away in memory. 

Our travels in the British Isles, in Germany, up the 
castellated Ehine, scaling the glorious Alps, in vine- 
clad France and its gay capital, leave bright and 
happy pictures in memory's gallery ; and the recollec- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 573 

tions of Loved Italta, its art, its antiquities, and 
scenery, The Fortunate Seventy can sincerely 
say, are not less beautiful and golden than its glowing 
sunset skies. 



574 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE SECOND DIVISION. 

Notes of the Tour through Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and 
France — Interesting Incident at Zurich — Congratulatory Reso- 
lutions passed at Paris. 

The second division of the Tourjee party was made 
up at the Inns of Court Hotel, in London, and Mr. 
F. Felix Limozin was assigned by Messrs. Cook & Son 
as our courier and conductor for the continental jour- 
ney. After our sojourn in London, we left, all in 
joyous spirits, on the evening of Monday, July loth. 
"We took the Flushing route from Holborn Station at 
8.40 p. M., arriving at Sheerness about ten o'clock in 
the evening. Here we went on board the steamer 
"Princess Elizabeth," which took us across the North 
Sea, arriving at Flushing at an early morning hour. 
From thence we took a train almost immediately for 
Antwerp. 

Arriving at Antwerp we were at once quartered at 
the Hotel de la Paix, and in a very brief time every 
member of the party was settled in his or her cozy 
room, and ready for "doing" the city. In a body our 
division visited the famous Museum of Paintings, the 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 575 

Cathedral of Notre Dame, and the Zoological Gardens. 
There were very many amateurs and connoisseurs of 
the fine arts in our party, and it was with admiration 
and delight that they lingered around the productions 
of the old Flemish masters. Greatly admired were 
such works as "Christ between the Two Thieves," "Ad- 
oration of the Magi," the "Crucifixion," and the 
"Descent from the Cross," by Rubens ; "The Entomb- 
ment," by VanDyck; and "The Entombment," by 
Quentin Matsys- The story of Matsys, as a matter 
of course, was learned by heart, and a visit was made 
to the famous well. The next morning drives were 
taken in and around the city, and visits were thus paid 
to the wharves, the Exchange, and to other points of 
interest. 

On the morning of July 18th, we took a train at 
9.15 a. m., and arrived at Brussels about one hour 
later. In that city we took up our abode at the Hotel 
de la Poste. The ladies of the party quickly found 
their way to the lace manufactories and sales depots. 
Other points of interest were by no means passed by, 
however. Visits were made to the Ducal Palace, the 
Cathedral of Ste. Gudule, the Botanical Gardens, the 
Picture Gallery, the Palace of the Nation, &c. 

*July 19. It was an early breakfast that the Amer- 
ican party took this morning, for we were to leave for 
Cologne by a train starting at six o'clock. Early starts 
were enjoyed by us all, as the morning air was so 



576 A SUMMER JAUNT 

fresh and invigorating. Closely ensconced in the now 
familiar and oftentimes luxurious railway coaches, we 
Hurriedly passed through Verviers, Aix-la-Chapelle, 
&c, and arrived at Cologne about half-past eleven 
o'clock. The custom-house officials allowed all our 
luggage to pass without examination. At Cologne we 
were registered at the Hotel de Hollande. Of course 
every member of our party visited the famous Cathe- 
dral, and some the Museum and Art Gallery. In the 
evening, quite a delegation attended Gilmore's Band 
Concert, and after the regular programme, in honor of 
the Americans present, " The Star-Spangled Banner" 
and several other American national airs were played. 

July 20, This morning we took the steamer 
w Kaiser Wilhelm," at 9 o'clock, for a journey up the 
Rhine, and the trip was one which we shall ever 
remember with unalloyed pleasure. 

Of the three hundred passengers on board, it would 
be safe to conclude that nine-tenths of the number 
were either Americans or English. 

" A soldier of the Legion lay dying in Algiers," 

was called forth as we passed Bingen, and other 
legendary and historic incidents were recalled as we 
sped by the ivy-clad ruins of many an old castle. 
Arriving at Biebrich about 7 o'clock in the evening, 
we at once took the coaches for Wiesbaden. 

July 21. Some of our party attended service at 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 577 

the Lutheran Church ; others visited the Greek 
Church, while many strolled about the town or re- 
mained at the Hotel du Rhin. 

July 22. We left Weisbaden this morning by 
rail at 10 a. m., and took our dinner at the Hotel du 
Nord, in Frankfort-on-the-Main. Our stay being 
short, hasty visits were made, by the aid of carriages, 
to the Museum, Goethe's House, the Ariadneum, 
the monument to Goethe (erected in 1844), &c. 
The Romer was also visited. This building, histori- 
cally, was the most interesting edifice seen in Frank- 
fort. The Romefberg, directly in front, is the 
great market-place of the city, and down to the end of 
the last century no Jew was permitted to enter its 
confines. Leaving by the afternoon train, Ave arrived 
in Heidelberg about 7 o'clock in the evening, and took 
up our temporary residence at the Hotel de TEurope. 

July 23, The various places of interest in Heidel- 
berg were visited, and very many of the party will 
remember with pleasure- the " ivy gathering" around 
the old Schloss. 

July 24. This date found us in Baden-Baden, 
enjoying rambles about this gay and brilliant water- 
ing-place, together with visits to the old castle and 
drives in the edge of the Black Forest ; whilst our 
base of operations was the excellent Hotel de Hol- 
lande. Our stay in Baden-Baden was one of unalloyed 
pleasure. 



578 A SUMMER JAUNT 

July 25. We took an early train for the long ride 
to SchafThausen. For the first time since leaving 
Scotland we were obliged to travel in a rain-storm, 
and the Hotel Schweizerhoff, at the Falls of the Khine, 
was reached under depressing atmospheric influences. 
It was cold and stormy, but, notwithstanding these 
adverse circumstances, our party was in the best of 
spirits, and bent upon enjoying their opportunities for 
sight-seeing to the full. 

July 26. We left our hotel at 11.30, and arrived 
at the Hotel Belle- Yue in Zurich in the early after- 
noon. Rides were taken in and around the city, and 
the various places of interest were visited. Our stay 
in Zurich was made exceedingly pleasant. We ob- 
served on our arrival at the Hotel Belle- Vue a portrait 
of General Grant in the reception-room, and this cir- 
cumstance called forth many pleasant expressions. 
The next morning, the ladies of our division prepared 
a handsome wreath for the brow of the General, and 
after the portrait had been thus adorned, the party 
united in living expression to their patriotism in 
"Columbia's the Gem of the Ocean," and in three 
rousino" cheers for the American warrior and ex-Pres- 
ident. Further cheers were given for the Republic of 
Switzerland, and for the Hotel Belle-Vue. 

July 27. We took the two o'clock train for 
Lucerne. On the way we were met by a courier from 
the Hotel Schwanen, bearing letters and papers for 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 579 

members of the American party, and also with the 
assignments of our rooms, so that no delay ensued 
when we reached Lucerne. The highly-prized mes- 
sages from home were distributed through the train 
by our efficient conductor, Mr. Limozin. In the 
afternoon we visited the Lion of Lucerne, the Glacial 
Garden, and attended the grand organ concert given 
for our benefit at the Stiftskirche. The inscription 
which is cast upon the large bell of this church is 
worth transcribing. It is as follows : " Vivos voco, 
mortuos plango, fulgura prango " (I call the living, 
bewail the dead, disperse the storms). 

Sunday, July 28. Eeligious services were held 
by the American party in one of the parlors of the 
hotel. 

July 29. We. left Lucerne at eleven o'clock, 
A. m., by steamer for Yitznau, and from thence went 
by the mountain railway up the Rigi, arriving at the 
Eigi-Kulm Hotel about half-past three in the after- 
noon. 

July 30. The morning found the mountain-top 
covered by clouds, and Old Sol did not put in an 
appearance. The Alpine horn was prompt, the people 
were prompt, but the sun hid his face, and our disap- 
pointment was complete. We commenced the de- 
scent at seven o'clock, and by steamer from Yitznau 
returned to Lucerne, where we changed to another 
boat bound for Alpnach, where we arrived shortly 



580 A SUMMER JAUNT 

after noon. At Alpnach we found coaches in waiting, 
and soon we were on our way over the Brunig Pass 
to Bricnz. We stopped at Sarnen for lunch, and then 
continued our journey in a rain-storm. While on the 
road we met the fourth division, headed by Mr. Bruce. 
A few hasty recognitions and salutations were all that 
time and the inclement weather would permit. We 
arrived at Bricnz at six o'clock in the evening, and we 
immediately took the steamer for the foot of the 
Gicssbach Falls, where we arrived soon after. 

July 31. We took the steamer to Bonigen, and 
from thence proceeded by rail to Interlaken, where 
we found pleasant quarters at the "Hotel Victoria." 
Here Dr. Tourjee's division, which had established 
itself at the neighboring Hotel Kitschard, was met, 
and a pleasant evening was passed. in comparing notes 
of travel. 

August 1. This day was spent at Interlaken and 
in its vicinity, nearly every member of the party 
making the pleasant excursion to Grindelwald. 

August 2. We left Interlaken at 12.30, p. M., by 
train to Lake Thun, which we crossed by steamer, 
and then proceeded by rail to Bern. The bears and 
the mechanical clock received due attention ; and a few 
of our number attended the Swiss Congress, which 
chanced to be in session. At the time of our visit, 
the question under consideration was the proposition 
to make further appropriations for the completion of 



THKOUGH THE OLD WOKLD. 581 

the St. Gothard Tunnel. Our headquarters were at 
the Hotel Belle- Yue. In the evening, an organ con- 
cert was given at the cathedral. 

August 3. "We left Bern at two o'clock, p. m. , and 
arrived at the quaint old town of Fribourg in due 
season, and proceeded to the beautifully located Hotel 
Zahringen. 

Sunday, August 4. A delightfully pleasant clay, 
and many an American might have been seen strolling 
about at leisure in and around the city. Religious 
services were held in the parlors of our hotel during 
the afternoon, Rev. John W.. Ray, of Lake City, 
Minnesota, officiating. A concert was given on the 
magnificent organ at the cathedral in the evening. 

August 5. Leaving Fribourg at half-past seven 
o'clock in the morning, we reached Lausanne about 
half-past ten. A short stay only was made at this 
place, and at three o'clock we took a steamer for 
Geneva, where we arrived about six o'clock in the 
evening. But for the incessant rain, this part of the 
journey would have been delightful. At Geneva, our 
headquarters were established at the Hotel du Lac. 

August 6. The day was accompanied by rain, but 
the sights of Geneva and its neighborhood were gen- 
erally inspected, and in the evening an organ concert 
at the cathedral was the centre of attraction. 

August 7. At half-past three o'clock, p. m., we 



582 A SUMMER JAUNT 

took our farewell of the City of Watches, and the 
long night-ride to Paris was before us. 

August 8. We reached Paris about seven o'clock, 
A. m., and within an hour were comfortably quar- 
tered in the Hotel Bedford. This and the subse- 
quent days of our stay in Paris were well occupied in 
a grand round of sight-seeing. The Exposition, of 
course, came in for a good share of attention ; and so 
did the Louvre, the Cathedral of Notre Dame, the 
Hotel des Invalides, the Pantheon, the Palace of the 
Luxembourg, &c, whilst many of the party also 
visited Versailles, St. Cloud, and other places in the 
vicinity of the beautiful city. 

On the evening of Monday, August 12th, a meeting 
of the members of the division was held in the pri- 
vate dining-rooms of the Hotel Bedford, Rev. John 
W. Ray, of Minnesota, acting as chairman, and Mr. 
E. Emory Johnson, of Connecticut, as secretary. On 
motion of Mr. Johnson, resolutions were passed con- 
gratulating Dr. Tourjee upon the success of the excur- 
sion, and commending Messrs. Thomas Cook & Son, 
Messrs. Cook, Son & Jenkins, and the conductor of 
the party, Mr. Limozin, for the admirable manner in 
which its details had been carried out. 

August 13. To-day our party bade adieu to Paris, 
and at nine o'clock we were again on the rail bound 
for London via Dieppe and Newhaven. Reaching 
Dieppe about two in the afternoon we at once took 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 583 

the steamer "Paris" for Newhaven. The Channel 
was very rough, and nearly every individual on board 
was a sufferer from that fearful affliction, " mal de 
.mer." Reaching Newhaven about nine o'clock in the 
evening, in a severe rain-storm, we immediately took 
a train for London, reaching the Midland Grand Hotel 
about one o'clock on the morning of Wednesday, 
August 14. 



584 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER XV. 

THE THIRD DIVISION. 

Notes of the Journey from London over the Continent, and back to 
England — Interesting Celebrations at Brussels — Gilmore's 
Band at Cologne — Saluting tbe Sirens of the Rhine — Glorious 
Scenes on the Rigi, &c. 

The Third Division of the Tourjee party, or the 
" Second Swiss," as it was termed by Messrs. Cook & 
Son, came into separate existence on the afternoon of 
Jnly 17. It was the last division to leave London, 
and was to move to Paris via Belgium, the Rhine, and 
Switzerland, thus following the steps of the First 
and Second Sections, but reversing the order of march 
pursued by the Fourth and Fifth. Mr. Giustiniani was 
assigned as our conductor, and led us forth from 
London by an evening train on the date named. At 
10.40 we reached Sheerness, and went on board the 
Flushing steamer for the passage across the North 
Sea. The waters off Queenboro' Pier, on that par- 
ticular night, must have been charged anew with 
phosphorescent life, for as the paddle-wheels surged 
us out to sea, the whole mass of wave and foam seemed 
blazing and quivering with pallid fire. The night was 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 585 

fascinatingly clear and still, and many of the party 
lingered till long into the small hours of the night, 
watching the light-ships, — mile-stones on the sea, — 
and the silent vessels as they crossed the moon's 
wake. 

Next morning found us at the mouth of the Schelde, 
where the red roofs of Flushing made us a Dutch wel- 
come, and the wind-mills, with stately grace, made 
their rotary salaams after their own fashion. We 
landed at Flushing, and at once took the cars for Ant- 
werp, having an amusing view of this section of Hol- 
land, — a quaint land, where, in the rural communi- 
ties, the old national oddities have not worn off, as 
they have in the great cities. 

The weather was warm, but clear and dry, and we 
considered it even cool, when we read of the frightful 
heated term then being endured by our friends in the 
United States. We spent the 18th and part of the 
19th in Antwerp, and what was not seen by some one 
of the party could not have been worth looking for. 
Across the record of our visit to Antwerp might Avell 
be inscribed the one word — Rubens. 

Friday night found us in Brussels, where we re- 
mained until Monday morning, thus fortunately in- 
cluding in our visit the day on which two important 
anniversaries were celebrated, — the one being the 
King's birthday, and the other the annual commemo- 
ration of the shedding of blood by the holy wafers, 



586 A SUMMER JAUNT 

when cut by the knives of the Jews, hi the by-gone 
days of ecclesiastical miracles. The clay was Sunday, 
and most of the party attended High Mass at the 
Church of Ste. Gudule, having the opportunity of 
seeing his Belgic Majesty, Kingf Leopold II., on his 
natal day, in addition to the pageantry of the service. 
During the afternoon bands paraded the gayly-dceo- 
rated streets, and parties of bare-legged girls danced 
and postured with rude grace in front of the proces- 
sions, much to the astonishment of the Americans. 
Many members of the division spent the latter part of 
day driving in the Bois de Chambre, which is a charm- 
ing and indispensable addition to this little Paris, and 
returned to stroll, until late, in the crowded streets, 
which blazed with illuminations and fireworks. 

Monday we travelled direct to Cologne, having an 
extremely warm and dusty ride, but were not too much 
fatigued to do justice to the city and its sights on our 
arrival, or to gather in our store of hearty enthusiasm 
for the morrow, when we saw the swift Rhine and the 
shadowy outlines of the Drachenfels rising afar. In 
addition to the marvellous cathedral, and the famous 
Golgotha, where the remains of the eleven thousand 
virgins are still preserved, Cologne, the night we were 
there, presented an additional attraction; viz., Gil- 
more, the great American musical leader, and his band. 
Many of the party nocked to pay their respects to him, 
while a minority of the division spent the evening on 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 587 

the bridge of boats, charmed by distant music and the 
swift swirling waters of the river. 

Perhaps most of the members of the division had 
looked forward to Tuesday, July 23d, with more 
eager expectation than to any other one day of their 
excursion ; and certainly if they enjoyed the Rhine as 
it should be enjoyed, they were not disappointed. 
The weather, doubtful at sunrise, turned out warm, 
and a silvery haze gave a peculiar softness to the land- 
scape. Each in turn of the objects of interest passed, 
was identified, and invariably sketched, by some one 
of the many "artists" on board. As we passed the 
Lurlei, the echoes of the grim rocks were awakened 
by Mendelssohn's well-known song, until the fabled 
siren, and all her train, seemed to answer the notes 
sounded in her praise. The singing was under the 
direction of Mr. Carl Zerrahn, whose tuneful forces 
included some members of our own party, together 
with a few of the other passengers. The song ceased, 
and the rain descended ; and so did the ladies — to the 
cabin — to return only at evening, when the last hour 
of the sail passed in the twilight. 

From Biebrich the party drove to Wiesbaden. The 
charms of this famous German watering-place were 
scanned on the succeeding morning, and the party 
then pushed on to Frankfort-on-the-Main. After 
viewing the interesting sights of this old town, we 
continued our trip to Heidelberg in the "first-class ,y 



588 A SUMMER JAUNT 

railway carriges we invariably occupied. These fre- 
quent journeys by rail, so dreaded by some, were 
greatly enjoyed by the younger members of the party, 
who quickly crystalized into congenial little parties of 
six or eight. We spent Thursday, July 25th, in 
enjoying Heidelberg. The castle was, of course, the 
chief attraction, and no part of it from deepest dun- 
geon or vaulted passage, to highest tower or crum- 
bling battlement, was unexplored. 

Friday we again advanced, this time to Baden- 
Baden, a spot made memorable, not only by visits to 
its various objects of interest, including the Trinkhalle, 
the Conversationshaus, and the ancient Schloss, but 
also by a parliamentary debate upon the question of 
visiting Strassburg. There was a division of opinion 
as to the advisability of breaking the journey to 
Schaffhausen, but Strassburg finally carried the day. 
To Strassburg we accordingly went, and after viewing 
the famous cathedral, the wonderful clock, and, of 
course, the storks' nests, we sped on to Schaffhausen. 

No day in the entire trip was sweeter, and fuller of 
quiet enjoyment, than the Sabbath at the Falls of the 
Rhine. Rev. Mr. Coster of our party, officiated dur- 
ing the Episcopal morning service, while the after- 
noon found the fields, woods, and pleasant country 
roads, full of stragglers from the hotel, exploring the 
falls, climbing the hills from which the first faint 
glimpses of the Alps were gained, or burdening them- 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 589 

selves with mellow-tinted wheat, blazing poppies, and 
the other gay blossoms which enriched the landscape 
with their bright coloring. 

Monday morning we crossed the Rhine, and travelled 
down to Zurich. The little row-boats were one of 
the special delights here, as at Lucerne, Ouchy, and 
Geneva, and toward evening, when most of the 
party had made their sight-seeing round of the town, 
the lake was thickly studded by the little craft manned 
by real Yankee crews. Some of the young ladies of 
the party, here displayed a proficiency in handling the 
oars, which was quite noteworthy. If Zurich pleased 
us, Lucerne fairly bewitched us. We remained here 
from Tuesday afternoon till Friday noon, deducting 
the time taken by our trip to the Rigi. The first 
event was the arrival of the Fourth Division, from 
Giessbach, bringing news of the First and Second, and 
a glowing account of the territory which they had 
already traversed. Both at Zurich and at Lucerne, 
most of the members of our division took long steamer 
trips on the lake. At Lucerne, the organ concerts 
drew large and appreciative audiences. Thursday 
morning, at breakfast, the members of the Fourth 
Division made an early appearance, having come down 
from the Rigi, en route to Zurich, They reported a 
magnificent sunrise, and promised us a good day. At 
noon, we set sail for Vitznau, whence the railway 
begins its ascent. Our eyes were anxiously fixed on 



590 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Mont Pilatus, and great was the relief when his cloud- 
drapery was pronounced to be highly favorable for 
really fine weather. He kept his word well, until just 
as we neared the Bigi-Kulm, when, from an apparently 
perfectly clear sky, a thin and chilling cloud com- 
pletely blotted out the lower world. This vexatious 
curtain remained lowered until fi.ve o'clock, p. m , 
when it vanished as suddenly as it had appeared. 
Meanwhile, the agile members of the party had not 
been idle. Most of them could show bewildering 
bunches of the Alpen-rose and forget-me-nots, while 
one enthusiastic botanist produced specimens of fifty- 
five undeniably distinc.t species of flowers, which he 
had gathered on the precipitous declivities on the north 
side of the peak, within an area of an acre. The sunset 
was nearly perfect, and next morning, after a night of 
sleep, such as one only gets in such a pure, cool 
atmosphere, we were on hand to see a sunrise of 
unrivalled clearness. Nothing could have been desired 
to make this scene more delightful. 

From the Rigi, we returned to Lucerne, but resumed 
our journey at noon, and landing at Alpnach, took 
carriages for Brienz, through the Brunig Pass. Dur- 
ing this long but glorious ride, we were constantly 
favored with views so bewitching, that we were thank- 
ful that we had not seen them earlier in our trip, for 
they would have dwarfed everything else. Early in 
this drive, we met the carriages containing the Fifth 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 591 

Division. As we embarked at Brienz on the steamer, 
a heavy shower broke upon us, and consequently our 
reception at Giessbach was decidedly moist, though 
by nine o'clock, when the cataract was illuminated, 
the rain had ceased falling. The next day opened 
badly, for a fine, penetrating drizzle rendered an 
exploration of the fall a matter of doubtful prudence ; 
but it began to clear soon after we started on our way 
to Interlaken, and on our arrival at that Saratoga of 
Switzerland, we had a clearing sky to welcome us. 
Just before sunset, the clouds which had veiled the 
fair Jungfrau's face were tossed aside, and with a 
rosy blush she disclosed her loveliest charms. 

Saturday evening there was a ?f hop " at our hotel, 
the Victoria ; and on the succeeding day excursions 
were made to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelwald. Most 
of the party chartered conveyances of some sort for 
these trips, but seven of the excursionists, including 
three ladies, chose to walk out to the Fall of the 
Staubbach, at Lauterbrunnen, and back, a distance of 
fifteen miles, thus experiencing some of the pleasures 
of pedestrian exercise among the mountains. 

From Interlaken we proceeded to Bern ; and from 
thence, on the morning of August 6th, we went to 
Fribourg, though not until many of the gentlemen 
had attended a morning sitting of the Swiss Federal 
Council, which assembles at the common-sense hour 
of eight o'clock, a. m. The same evening we were 



592 A SUMMER JAUNT 

favored with a free concert on the celebrated Friboursr 
organ, this entertainment having been provided by 
special arrangement. Our stay in Fribourg was not 
marked by any great event beside the concert, but the 
quiet little city was thoroughly explored, and no one 
complained of being dull while in its picturesque 
precincts. 

"Wednesday morning we were off again, this time 
by rail to Lausanne and the fair Ouchy ; and thence 
by boat down the lake to Geneva. The weather was 
perfect, and the trip was much enjoyed. As we 
neared Geneva, a sharp look-out was kept for Mont 
Blanc, but in vain, as it was not then to be seen. 
Thursday evening we attended our second compli- 
mentary organ concert, and had an evening of pleas- 
ure not to be forgotten. As we returned from the 
concert to the Hotel de la Metropole, on the Grand 
Quay, we found the streets crowded with people 
either walking or sitting at the refreshment tables, 
while music of various kinds echoed through the 
brilliantly lighted streets. But the view from our 
windows, overlooking the Jardin Anglais and the har- 
bor, was simply superb, for both garden and inner 
basin were all ablaze with colored lights, and throngs 
of people passed back and forth near the music-stands. 
Fete nights like this, occur frequently during the 
season. Although the weather had been fine during 
our whole visit, yet provoking clouds kept close down 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 593 

over Mont Blanc till Friday morning; but patient 
waiters in this case were duly rewarded, for as soon 
as the feeble light of day rendered objects visible, the 
bristling line of the Mont Blanc peaks became clearly 
discernible, resembling tongues of flame quivering 
over the edge of the horizon. 

The journey to Paris was truly a novelty. It was 
our first night-trip in the cars, and although unat- 
tended by any serious inconveniences, it was never- 
theless to be remembered not altogether with pleasure. 
We reached Paris in the morning and proceeded to 
the Hotel Bedford. Probably no two members of our 
party had the same experience during the time of our 
stay in that fascinating city ; and no account could be 
given of the movements of any one, which would 
represent, or begin to illustrate, the movements of 
all. All Paris was traversed and explored. Our 
forces were increased by the Second Division, which 
had arrived before us, and the excusions about the 
city, to Versailles, &c, were enjoyed by goodly num- 
bers from each body. 

At length the time came for our departure from 
the gay city, but our numbers were depleted to some 
extent, as some were to remain a longer time. Tak- 
ing the route via Kouen, Dieppe, and Newhaven, we 
returned to London, reaching the British metropolis 
on the night of August 15th. 



594 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER XVI. 

THE FOURTH DIVISION. 

Notes of the Continental Journey — Amusing Incidents — Grand 
Illumination by the Students at Heidelberg — Two Days on the 
Rhine — Visits to Coblenz and Ehrenbreitstein — The Return 
to England, &c. 

On our arrival at London, the Fourth Section be- 
came a tangible entity, and, as such, we were domiciled 
at the Terminus, with all London, the Thames and its 
bridges between us and the other sections. This re- 
moteness may have had its advantages, but they were 
evidently in seclusion, or delusion. Brief was our 
stay at the hotel, where we enjoyed the fewest meals 
in the greatest time of any place on the tour, and 
where the mien of the waiters reminded one of the 
address on the princely dog's collar : — 

" I am his highness' dog at Kew ; 
Pray, tell me, sir, whose dog are you ? " 

So we packed our selected effects, turned our backs 
upon Parliament, Westminster, St. Paul's, and the 
new wonder, — the Needle, — and, led by our courte- 
ous conductor, Mr. Paul S. Sostino, — 

" We went to saunter Europe through, 
To gather culture rare and true." 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 595 

Oh, that the tongue could utter the thoughts that 
arose, the emotions that throbbed among our party at 
the first gaze upon the Channel, whose fame is world- 
wide, and whose gentle power has brought, with no 
uncertain sound, true inwardness to the surface. Such 
a sea, even the oldest inhabitant could not recall its 
equal, — so calm, so "elegant," as the steamer glided 
over it, " that e'en Palinurus nodded at the helm." An 
hour ahead of time, we approached quaint old Dieppe by 
the sea, with its time-worn houses and castle, its jovial 
fishwomen, in their peculiar garb and natural volubil- 
ity. Soon landing, and tickling the customs officer 
with the corner of a small hat-box for the entire party, 
we hastened to the train. 

Paris reached, we were soon under the care of M. 
Keignard, of the celebrated family of wine-merchants, 
at his hotel, the "Bedford." Here we spent a week 
among the privileged of all Christendom, and other 
sections too numerous for mention, doing the Exposi- 
tion, seeing the sights, and, like other victims, buying 
at Paris prices adapted to American purses. 

We pause here only to heave a mental sigh over the 
pleasant days spent at Versailles, St. Cloud, Sevres, 
and our afternoon fete with Mr. Thomas Cook, — and 
then face the vision that haunts us still, of that thirteen 
hours' ride, by "night service," to Geneva. But why 
prolong the ride ? We reached the boundary, beheld 
the Jura Alps, washed our faces, greeted the bright 



596 A SUMMER JAUNT 

sun tipping the mountain-tops, combed our hair, drank 
in the inspiration of the morning, brushed our clothes, 
and hied to Geneva, feeling that, after all, our ride 

" Was but an awful instrument, 
Iu working out a pure intent." 

Some one has said, that if you have a reputation for 
early rising, you may lie abed till noon ; so it seemed 
with Mont Blanc, who appeared very late in the morn- 
ing with his night-dress on. He may have been out 
of sorts, for all day he appeared cloudy and distant, so 
that no one could see him ; but, next morning, he rose 
at four o'clock with a clear head, and a face wreathed 
in smiles of sunshine at our early welcome, apparently 
sharing the enthusiasm of one member of our party, 
who saw him to bed safely, walked the floor during 
the "wee hours" so as to be-in at the waking, and 
aroused the establishment, from scullion to owner, 
with rappings at all doors, to " Get right up, and see 
the elegant sight ! " As the grandeur of his coming 
filled our expectant moments, — 

" We felt like some watcher of the skies, 
When a new planet swims into his ken." 

And when the mountain stood forth in all the glory 
of that morning sun, we saw that, truly — 

" Mont Blanc is Monarch of Mountains ; 
They crowned him long ago 
On a throne of rocks, in a robe of clouds, 
With a diadem of snow." 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 597 

It cost an effort to leave at Geneva the Fifth Divi- 
sion, which had so conscientiously and continually 
looked to us for example, enthusiasm, and enlighten- 
ment ; but few and sad were our parting words, for 
we promptly responded to the unceasing injunction of 
the ever visrilant and attentive Sostino, — "Now, 
ladies and gentlemen, have your leetle baggages 
ready," and amid congratulations from earth, and 
weeping from the heavens, we steamed up the lake to 
Ouchy. An ascent by inclined railway brought us 
from Ouchy to Lausanne, whence we sped to quaint, 
picturesque Fribourg, with its great bridges, curious 
walls, towers, streets, and more curious population, 
definitely separated, street by street, into French and 
German, the whole impressing one tliat Fribourg was 
"von ov dot olden time." On listening to another of 
Dr. Tourjee's prearranged concerts on the grand 
organ of the great cathedral, a second " storm " burst 
upon us, drenching us with musical rain, whisking us 
with musical wind, and scaring us with musical thun- 
der and lightning, while ever and anon the lurid 
flashes of the tallow dips, three in number, on the 
huge columns, fitly prepared us for the musical clear- 
ing off in sunshine and bird songs. 

Old Bern was briefly honored by our presence ; the 
bear-pits received our lavish bestowals of carrots ; 
galleries, stores, houses, fountains, cathedral and 
clock demanded our admiring gaze, and our ears again 



598 A SUMMER JAUNT 

feasted upon another Tourjee Concert, until that same 
"storm" broke upon us, — all "Probs" to the contrary, 
— suggesting the expediency of a tonalic lightning- 
rod for future Musical Cyclones. 

We got "our leetle baggages ready now," and 
flitted by rail and lake to beautiful Interlaken, where 
we were welcomed by the loveliest of the lovely, — the 
Jungfrau. A smiling Sabbath morning bade the 
hopes, joys, and spirits of all to rise, gaze, admire, 
and wonder, which we proceeded to do. Some went 
to the Staubbach and Lauterbrunnen, while others 
took carriages to the celebrated glaciers of the Grindel- 
wald, arriving at the hotel in time to get, for each 
who so desired, a Pegasus to add new tortures to an 
already tortuous- path to the glacier. We can see 
them now, each equestrienne bravely striving to 
encourage her lagging, stumbling beast, or maintain- 
ing her dignity by mane strength, if not kindly offer- 
ing a ride to some weary one of the tramp retinue. 
We reached the glacier, we mounted it, we entered 
the grotto, and, with the aid of a fine old German 
gentleman, made the icy cavern ring with "Praise 
God " and " My Country, 'tis of Thee." 

The "Italian" division was at Interlaken, and with 
its members we shared a grand re-union, tendered by 
mine host of the Victoria, in the spacious saloon, 
where with merry music and the dance, we whiled 
the few brief hours ere we parted. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 599 

O'er Lake Brienz we sweetly glide, to rest at 
Giessbach ; to rest after climbing vertically, circum- 
ambiently, to the grand hotel fronting the falls, whose 
nightly illuminations have become one of the sights of 
Europe. Eecrossing the lake on the morrow, we 
took our famous ride over the Brunig Pass to Alpnach, 
meeting on the way the second section. A pleasant 
ride on the Lake of the Four Cantons brought us to 
Lucerne, where we did ample justice to all lions, 
shops, and the organ. Another Tourjee concert at 
the cathedral, and another " storm ! " 

We ascended the Rigi by rail in time to behold a 
gorgeous sunset, — harbinger of a glorious dawn on 
the morrow. To describe an evening at that high 
altitude with such low temperature, causes a retro- 
spective shiver while we write, and our ink freezes to 
our nibs. At an early hour we heard the expected 
horn, and obeyed with all the alacrity darkness would 
permit, despite the stubbornness of our clothes that 
would not go on right, and the hair-pins we could not 
find just where we put them the night before. Just 
as we were about to rush en dishabille to the summit 
to see the great sight, we looked at our watches to 
find ourselves an hour ahead of time, while the indi- 
vidual who blew that bogus horn lay giggling " in his 
little bed," at our sold condition. But when the 
genuine hornist sounded, we quickly scrambled to out- 
places, where, with excited frigidity, we awaited the 



600 A SUMMER JAUNT 

glorious scene. With us was a band of Swiss stu-* 
dents, bringing flags and songs to greet the awakening 
king. Slowly rolled away the curtain of night, dis- 
closing the Bernese Alps, the Rossberg, and old Pila- 
tus jet sleeping, clothed in garments of white. The 
grandeur and impressiveness of the scene can never 
be forgotten. As peak followed peak into the glow- 
ing brightness of the rising sun, then range after 
range brought its grand proportions into view, while 
the clouds merged into magnificent sun-bursts, the 
whole seemed to rise in adoration toward the King of 
kings and Lord of lords. It was Handel's great 
" Hallelujah Chorus," where the fugue, with part fol- 
lowing part in increasing harmonious grandeur, pro- 
claims, "And He shall reign forever, Hallelujah! 
Hallelujah!" Truly our hearts felt the "Praise God 
from whom all blessings flow," that welled forth on 
that morning. 

From Lucerne to Zurich, thence to Schaffhausen, 
where we stared the falls out of countenance. Strass- 
burg, its famous cathedral and clock, its storks, its 
marks of the fierce bombardment, all were viewed 
with a critic's eye, and paid for accordingly. Baden- 
Baden and its society, its attractiveness without and 
within, next claimed our attention. Of course our 
party partook of those delicious draughts of nectar 
pure at the Trinkhalle, but never mortal told of the 
change that came o'er the spirit of their dream as that 



TIIKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 601 

water gurgled down. The Cursaal, too, received our 
fair share of amazement. The benign German em- 
press and beautiful princess called forth our admira- 
tion, heightened by a sincere respect, as they, with 
common worshippers, knelt down before one common 
altar at the English chapel. 

Heidelberg next embraced our favored few. Here 
we found the city alive with preparations by the stu- 
dents for their anniversary ; so to give character to 
the occasion, we mingled with the many who visited 
that castle of castles, where the exercises were held. 
Like other tourists we visited every accessible nook 
and corner from top-stone to dungeon, and unlike 
other tourists we received an informal ovation from the 
students, who, in the midst of their hilarity, recogniz- 
ing the party as Americans, rose en masse and toasted 
the ladies, leaving their colors with us as mementoes. 
We were fortunate in being present at the grand 
annual illumination of the castle, a most magnificent 
pyrotechnic display from river, woods, and ivy-clad 
wall. Many events marked us for their own, espe- 
cially one fearful to contemplate : three of our noblest 
women locked in a dark dungeon of the castle, and 
found only by chance, — a gentleman being drawn 
thither by the repentant groans issuing through the 
gratings. 

Old Frankfort, with its fine buildings and beautiful 
drives, favorably impressed us ; and feeling that the 



602 A SUMMER JAUNT 

impression would not grow on longer acquaintance we 
excused our brevity, graciously withdrew, and fol- 
lowed our " leetle bas^a^es " to Wiesbaden. Here we 

DO O 

enjoyed a rest, partook of the delicious waters until 
our facial expression hinted that 

m 

" Each on honey-dew hath fed, 
And drunk the milk of Paradise." 

We mingled with gay throngs, visited all the places 
of interest, and before leaving had the pleasure of 
seeing the grand military-pyrotechnic-musical spec- 
tacle of the battle of Worth. From Wiesbaden, 
through a fine boulevard, we rode to Biebrich, where 
we took passage on a Rhine steamer. 

Such a day ! We are well aware that the Ehine 
has been fully " written up " by all the forty-two cor- 
respondents of the other divisions, who, on account 
of the inclemency of the weather, were compelled to 
stay in the cabin, with "nothing else to do." We 
were better employed in viewing its beauties. We 
were to remain one day at Coblenz, and therefore had 
two days on the Rhine, with ample opportunity to 
visit Stolzenfels, Ehrenbreitstein, Forts Alexander and 
Constantine, the Summer Palace of the Empress, 
together with all the objects of interest in and about 
Coblenz. We reached Coblenz after a most charming 
trip. Here we found a city having habitation and a 
name since 13 b. c. It is in the form of a triangle, 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 603 

at the junction of the Rhine and the Moselle. Di- 
rectly opposite, rising nearly four hundred feet above 
the river, stands that grim "Watch on the Ehine," — 

" Ehrenbreitstein with her shattered wall, 

Black with the miner's blast upon her height, 
Yet shows of what she was when shot and ball 
Rebounding lightly on her strength did light." 

We spent an afternoon in the fortress, where we 
were courteously received by a sergeant, and con- 
ducted through all parts accessible to visitors. It 
seems almost impregnable ; indeed, has proved itself 
so, having been taken only twice since 1688, — once 
by stratagem, and once through fear of famine. It 
mounts over four hundred guns, and has ten years' 
subsistence for ten thousand men. Yast sums of 
money are yearly expended upon it, until it has be- 
come one or* the strongest fortresses in the world. 
On our descent from the "bomb proof," the attendant 
carefully locked the great door, and proceeded to 
show us some other mysterious quarter, when our 
ears were startled by a piercing cry. On looking 
back, we discovered that one of the lady members of 
our party was a prisoner. To the rescue flew our 
gallant sergeant ; open swung the great door, to the 
roof climbed he, and the captive was released. Stol- 
zenfels and other points received due attention, and 
the regiments, bands, orchestras, and church services 
contributed much of interest, particularly a children's 



604 A SUMMER JAUNT 

morning Mass, in which we heard over six hundred 
young voices in full harmony. 

Another beautiful day's journey on the Khine 
brought us to Cologne in time to take a preliminary 
glance at the city, as well as a premonitory sniff at 
the seventy odd classified smells, leaving many others 
too odoriferous for mention. Cologne has a cathedral 
which has been six hundred years building, and — like 
a great many professing Christians — while pointing 
towards heaven, is mouldering at the base. It must be 
the effluvia that rots the stone, despite the location of 
the edifice amid a dozen manufactories, each the "only 
genuine gold medal, Widow Farina Cologne." The 
bones of St. Ursula, and her eleven thousand virginal 
host, drew well upon the credulity and sympathy of 
our party, while many admitted it "were better to 
shine in more substantial honors." Shaking the odor 
from our garments, we sped to Brussels, to spend a 
few remaining hours and francs in viewing and buying 
among all the curiosities and products of that beautiful 
city. 

Antwerp was the last, though hot the least, to be 
gladdened by our presence. Here we visited every- 
thing, and almost everybody, even to the quaintly- 
dressed dames with coal-scuttle bonnets and honest 
faces, and even to the canines, which at Brussels and 
at Antwerp made the market-places hideous by their 
yelps and angry howling, in a way comparable only to 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 60 {> 

the spasmodic sighs of our party on the day of its 
departure for Flushing, en route for England. That 
voyage ! The realization of dreaded ills ; the boun- 
teous supper, that refused to stay when "put where 
it would do the most good ! " Ah, well, — 

" 'Tis better to have supped and lost 
Than never to have supped at all." 

Safely landed on England's mighty strand, what 
was left of our feeble natures assured the inspectors 
of customs that we held nothing dutiable ; we had 
given up all that we had of anything. Again, and for 
the last time, "our leetle barrages" and their owners 

7 CO o 

were packed for London, and away we steamed, each 
eye on the alert for a final castle or cathedral, until 
London was reached, our cab entered, and we were 
wheeling to the "Midland Grand," where we hoped to 
find some — 

11 Eyes that would mark 
■ Our coming, and look brighter when we came." 

We refer not to the waiters or the porters, but to the 
returning hosts of the Tourjeean Party, in which we 
were at once absorbed, and as suddenly lost our afore- 
time entity. 

At the hotel, previous to our departure for home, 
the Fourth Section unanimously passed resolutions 
recognizing the faithful and eificient services of Mr. 
Paulos S. Sostino, who had proved himself all that 
could be desired as a continental conductor. 



606 A SUMMER JAUNT 



CHAPTER XYII. 



THE "CIRCASSIA" PARTY. 



The Advance-Guard of the American Invaders 

Scotland, England, Belgium, Germany, Switzerland, and France 
— Another Section Visits Italy. 

The main body of Dr. Tourjee's excursion party 
sailed from America on the steamship "Devonia," June 
29th, as already related. An advance party, of nearly 
fifty persons, left a week earlier, however, in the 
steamship " Circassia," and journeyed through Europe, 
independently of the others. The voyage across the 
ocean was pleasant, and it was enlivened by entertain- 
ments of various kinds, and by a mock court. Land- 
ing in Scotland, the party first visited Glasgow, stop- 
ping at the Cockburn Hotel. A tour was made 
through Loch Lomond, Loch Katrine, and the Tros- 
achs, July 3d, and the travellers then paid their re- 
spects to Edinburgh, visiting the various places of 
interest in that charming city. 

Leaving Edinburgh by a special train, the party 
proceeded to Melrose, where a halt was made for an 
inspection of the ruins of the famous old abbey, and 
also for a visit to Abbotsford. Resuming the. rail- 
way journey, the party proceeded to London, where 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 607 

it was divided into two sections, one for the Swiss 
tour, and the other for a more extended journey 
through Italy, as well as over the route pursued by the 
other. 

The " Swiss " section left London Monday evening, 
July 8th, via Harwich, and went to Antwerp, where 
the following day was spent. Brussels and Cologne 
next claimed attention, and then came the passage of 
the Rhine, and visits, successively, to Wiesbaden, 
Prankfort-on-the-Main, and Heidelberg. In the lat- 
ter city a Sabbath was passed. Baden-Baden was 
visited, and the party then proceeded to Switzerland 
via Schaffhausen and the Falls of the Rhine. Lucerne 
and the Rigi were the next objective points, and from 
Alpnach the travellers crossed the Brunig Pass to 
Brienz, and sailed across the Lake of Brienz to the 
Falls of the Giessbach. 

Sunday, July 21st, was passed at Interlaken, and 
from that place the journey was continued to Thun and 
Bern. Fribourg, Lausanne, and Geneva were suc- 
cessively visited, and Sunday, July 28th, was passed in 
the latter city. On the following day the travellers 
took the long railway-ride to Paris, leaving Geneva in 
the. afternoon, and reaching Paris early next morning. 

After an extended round of sight-seeing in Paris, 
and an inspection of the Exposition, the division re- 
turned to London via Rouen, Dieppe, and Newhaven, 
to finish their round of visits to the objects of interest 



608 A SUMMER JAUNT 

in the British metropolis. Nearly all the members of 
this section returned to America a week earlier than 
the other party. 

The " Italian " wing of the " Circassia " party trav- 
elled over the same route, through Belgium, German}'', 
and Switzerland, that has been described, except that 
a few of its members extended their journey to Cha- 
mouni, going up to Martigny from Lake Leman, and 
thence over the Tete Noire Pass. Proceeding to 
Geneva by diligence, these travellers joined the main 
body of the section, and the journey was then con- 
tinued, in accordance with the previously arranged 
itinerary, to Italy, via the Mont. Cenis Tunnel. The 
route through Italy was, in all important particulars, 
the same one that the " Italian " section of the " Devo- 
nia" party took a week later, one or two places, how- 
ever, being visited in a different order. For example : 
Genoa was visited previous to Rome. Several days 
were passed in the " Eternal City " in the companion- 
ship of Mr. Shakespeare Wood, the distinguished arch- 
aeologist. The art-galleries of Florence next claimed 
attention, and some of the party went to Naples. Re- 
turning northward, Venice, Milan, and Turin were, in 
turn, visited, and from the latter city the party jour- 
neyed by rail direct to Paris. A few days later, the 
travellers reached London, and, after a brief sojourn in 
that city, proceeded to Glasgow to take the steamer 
for New York. 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 609 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

HOMEWARD BOUND. 

Once More in London — Supplementary Tours by Members of the 
Party — Notes of a Yisit to Sorrento and the Blue Grotto of 
Capri and of a Tour of Lakes Como and Lugano — A Pilgrimage 
to the Holy Land — Setting Sail for Home — Moville — The 
"Rolling Deep" — Entertainments on Shipboard — Benefit of 
the Shipwrecked Mariners' Society — Congratulatory Resolu- 
tions — Arrival at New York — The Custom-House Officers — 
Dr. TourjeVs Christmas Greeting. 

The preceding chapters have taken the various 
divisions of our party through their wanderings over 
the Continent, and back to London ; whilst Mr. 
Lewis has chronicled some of his subsequent journey- 
ing through. Ireland. But little remains to be told of 
the experiences of the party as a whole, while in 
Europe, although many interesting pages might he 
furnished by individuals who remained abroad longer 
than the assigned period of the excursion, to indulge 
in further recreation and travel. Some, too, prolonged 
their visit for the purpose of extending their studies 
in the musical and other art schools of the Old 
World. 

Mr. Charles Smith, of Boston, Mass., who extended 
his travels in Italy beyond the route pursued by the 



610 A SUMMER JAUNT 

First, or " Italian " Division, has furnished me with 
some interesting notes. In company with seventeen 
other members of that division, he proceeded to 
Naples, and, upon his return to the north of Italy, 
visited the Italian lakes. As Mr. Lewis has already 
given an account of a visit to Naples, Pompeii, and 
Vesuvius, I quote from Mr. Smith's notes only so 
far as they relate to a visit made to Sorrento, and 
the Isle of Capri, and to his subsequent journeyings 
about lakes Como and Lugano : — 

August 16. Six of the party having left Naples on 
their return to Rome, the remaining twelve spend the day in 
a beautiful ride around the shores of the Bay of Naples. 
We go by rail (one hour, eighteen miles) to Castellamare, 
and from there to Sorrento, b}- carriages, along the shores 
of 4he bay (one and' three-quarters hours, twelve miles) . 
The ride was one of the most delightful of our whole trip. 
The road is circuitous, and winds around the mountains, 
and b}^ a bridge crosses a deep gorge. On the left are 
mountains and valleys, with growing fruit, — olives, oranges, 
and lemons, — in ever} r direction as far the eye can reach; 
on the right the beautiful Bay of Naples and the distant 
Mediterranean. At Sorrento, we take a sail-boat for the 
Isle of Capri, where we visit the Blue Grotto. This is a 
natural grotto which has an entrance at the water's edge, 
just large enough for a small boat to enter. As the little 
craft could take only four passengers at a time into the 
grotto, three trips had to be made. After an entrance is 
effected, the grotto enlarges. It extends several hundred 
feet, and is fifty feet in height. The boat excursion, to and 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 611 

from the island,' was exceedingly pleasant, and the scenery 
at all times very beautiful. 

After a leisurely survey of Naples and disentombed 
Pompeii, and a visit to the crater of Mount Vesuvius, 
the party returned to Rome, and, via Pisa, Gene-¥*^ 
and Milan, proceeded to the lake district. 

August 25. We arrived last evening at Como, which 
lies at the southern extremity of the lake of Como. The 
windows of our room at the hotel overlook the lake. The 
view is exquisitely lovely, combining as it does the lake and 
lofty mountains. Princes, nobles, and rich merchants have 
lined the green shores of the lake with picturesque villas. 
We see the beautiful greensward, the rose, the peach-blos- 
som, the grape, and the pure white snow-field all in one 
view. 

August 26. After a two hours' sail on Lake Como, we 
reach Bellaggio, which is situated on a promontory at the 
junction of the two arms of the lake. Awaiting the con- 
clusion of a thunder-storm, we ascend the lofty height and 
enjoy the glorious scenes presented on either hand. Ex- 
tended promenades and roads, in 'some places cut or tun- 
nelled through the solid rock, wind around the cliffs. The 
views upon all sides are most enchanting. 

August 27. We cross the lake to Menaggio, on the 
west bank of the lake, and from thence go by diligence to 
Poiiezza, which lies at the upper extremity of the lake of 
Lugano, and at the base* of a grand amphitheatre amid the 
hills. The opposite shore is very steep, and almost in- 
accessible rocks and wooded mountains rise from the 
very edge of the lake, while their picturesque forms are 



612 A SUMMER JAUNT 

reflected in the clear waters beneath. We go from Porlezza 
to Lugano by steamer. The little towns we pass, which 
are romantically situated amid forests of walnut and chest- 
nut trees, are very interesting. The Lugano side of the 
lake is Swiss, and the opposite shore Italian. 

August 28. An hour's sail brings us from Lugano to 
Porto in Italy. The scenery upon the lake is varied and 
magnificent. The inlets and bays present a succession of 
beautiful pictures. The stretches of rich green which line 
their shores, are walled by lofty mountains, and the contrast 
between cultivated and uncultivated nature may be traced 
on all sides. A ride of one and a half hours by diligence 
brings us from Porto to Varese, which is thirteen hundred 
feet above the level of the sea, and within full view of the high 
Alps, whose tops are clad with perpetual snow. Mont Rosa 
towers above all the other peaks, and hides Mont Blanc. 
The rising sun casts a roseate hue upon the line of peaks, 
forty miles away, and the view at sunset is also very beauti- 
ful. 

Mr. Smith remained at Varese until September 6th, 
when he started on his return homeward, via Turin, 
Paris, and London. 

A party was made up from the "Italian" Division 
for the tour of Palestine. The adventures of these 
travellers have been described in a series of very inter- 
esting letters, written by Mrs. C. F. Springer, of 
Anamosa, Iowa, and published in the "Anamosa 
Eureka." We quote below one of these communica- 
tions, which describes a part of the journey to Jeru- 
salem : — 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 613 

Tents, Sea op Galilee, Palestine, Asia. 

Editors Eureka : — Our tarry at the Jordan was full of 
interest. Lot, lifting up his eyes, beheld all the plain, that 
it was well watered everywhere. (Gen. xiii. 10.) 

After the forty } T ears' wanderings, the Israelites " crossed 
over it on dry ground." (Joshua hi. 17.) This occurred 
in the time of harvest, the beginning of April, when the 
waters were at their highest, "for Jordan overfloweth all 
his banks all the time of harvest." (Joshua iii. 15.) Jacob, 
Gideon, Abner, David, and many others crossed this river, 
and here came the two holy men, one of whom was so soon 
to enter heaven. (2 Kings ii. 7.) 

Elisha, returning from this wonderful farewell from his 
translated friend, taking the mantle which had fallen from 
his brother, smote the water and passed over on dry land. 
(2 Kings ii. 13, 14.) 

In these waters Naaman was cured of his leprosy (2 
Kings v.) ; but all these events seem small compared to 
the marvellous incidents recorded in the New Testament. 
The baptisms given in Matt. iii. 5, 6, are noteworthy, and, 
most sacred of all, is the memory of our Lord coming to 
this place to receive the holy rite of John. (Matt. iii. 13- 
17.) 

At Easter, pilgrims numbering thousands, come here to 
bathe, attaching great religious significance to the act. 

The length of the river in a straight line is not more than 
one hundred and twenty miles, but its meanderings are so 
great as to change sixty miles to two hundred between 
the Sea of Galilee and the Dead Sea, while its width is from 
eighty to one hundred and sixty feet. Ths banks are rich 
in varied foliage and birds, find pleasant homes in these 
beautiful trees. 

The Jew, Christian, Ishmaelite, and Mohammedan alike 



614 A SUMMER JAUNT 

cherish the stream as a place of hallowed memories, and I 
"went down into and came up out of the Jordan" several 
times, making sure of a sufficiently complete bath to satisfy 
my most earnest Baptist friends, my first step being about 
two feet down, for the water is quite muddy and very un- 
like the clear water of the Dead Sea. Although I confess 
to a great fear of going into the water, my zeal was equal 
to the occasion. The gentlemen went in to bathe at the 
place where " the Israelites crossed," but a young lady from 
Penns3'lvania and nryself were satisfied with any locality of 
the sacred river, and ascending the banks I gathered some 
leaves from the water, while the friend remarked we were 
quite as likely to be in the exact locality where the Israelites 
crossed as our more confident friends. 

An Arab tribe came with camels, &c, to cross the ford, 
before we left. One hour's ride brings us to the Valley Of 
Achor (Joshua vii. 24-26), and crossing the Brook Cherith 
(1 Kings xvii. 1-7) where Elijah was fed by the ravens, 
we enter Riha, the town being a mere heap of rubbish and 
filth ; but this is the site of the ancient Gilgal and of modern 
Jericho. 

Here the twelve stones were set up (Joshua iv. 19, 20), 
and the people celebrated their first Passover in the Prom- 
ised Land. 

A little farther on we arrive at the Fountain of Elisha, 
where the brackish water was changed (2 Kings ii. 22), 
and encamp for the night, after thirt}^-six miles in the sad- 
dle. This fountain for three thousand five hundred years 
has flowed on, being carried in aqueducts over a vast extent 
of ground for irrigation in the days of the Romans. The 
water is very clear but warm, but we bade farewell to ice in 
Egypt, and only occasionally sigh for the cold wells of Iowa. 
In this once luxuriant plain grew the balsam trees, whose 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 615 

fruit cured instantaneously nearly all wounds, and which 
Cleopatra transplanted to Heliopolis, Africa. We behold 
the ruins of ancient Jericho, and this is the plain to which 
Joshua sent the spies, while he and the children of Israel 
encamped below, and we are not slow to believe that per- 
haps some of these wonderful caves are the very ones where 
the spies hid themselves after leaving Rahab's house. "And 
lifting up his eyes he beheld them afar off," has a new sig- 
nificance, as we can see from one mountain summit to another 
so clearly. But trying to doze off in the cozy camp-bed, 
thinking of the " seven times around Jericho," I am re- 
minded I am only dust, for the sand-flies prevent all sleep, 
being a much greater terror than fleas, and the morning finds 
me but slightly refreshed. At five o'clock, a. m., we have 
all finished breakfast, and are passing the ravines where the 
ravens fed Elijah (a full moon making the morning brighter) , 
and having our last view of the plains of Jericho and Jor- 
dan. We are travelling over the very road of the lesson of 
the Good Samaritan (Luke x. 30-38), and the feet of our 
dear Lord trod this way from Jordan to Bethany, when he 
went to raise Lazarus. Nothing is improved here — all 
remains the same ; and we find the bridle-path so narrow and 
steep, that a horse can scarcely stand ; in fact, one gentle- 
man and his horse fell this morning on one of the ledges of 
rock, but they were unhurt. 

This road from Jericho to Jerusalem is considered the 
most dangerous in Syria, but a fear has not crossed my 
mind, though I was glad our guide required us to leave all 
gold watches, rings, or any ornaments of value, with our 
purses, in care o£ the very gentlemanly proprietor of the 
hotel at Jerusalem. 

At Bethany we descend toLazarus's tomb,.hewnin a rock, 
while the place for the stone at the. door remains the same. 



616 A SUMMER JAUNT 

One read here the beautiful lesson from John xi., and we 
then passed to the ruins of the (traditional) home of Martha 
and Mary, and also that of Simon the leper. Bethany is 
about two miles south-east of Jerusalem over the eastern 
slope of Mount Olivet, and this is the route Jesus passed 
oftentimes as he toiled all day and sometimes prayed all 
night, for those who rejected and despised him. Here 
occurred the touching scene when a woman broke an ala- 
baster box of precious ointment to anoint the Saviour, and 
provoked the cupidity of Judas by the deed. It was from 
Bethairy Jesus sent two to prepare for his entrance to Jeru- 
salem (Luke xix. 29), and here he led out his disciples as 
he was about to return to the Father. (Luke xxiv. 50.) 
Though there is little here to detain the traveller in the sur- 
roundings of the crowd of Arabs crying "backsheesh," 
still, reflecting that from this slope of the Mount of Olives 
our Lord returned to the Holy Mountain, we can but feel 
that he who has "gone out as far as Bethany," has been as 
near heaven as he can well be on earth. On Mount Olivet 
we visited the Pater Noster Chapel, erected by the French 
Princess La Tour d'Auvergne, which is exceedingly beauti- 
ful. In the court of the Nunnery the Lord's Prayer is 
written on tablets in the wall, in thirty- two different 
languages. From the top of a Turkish minaret we had a 
line view of the city, which looks better from the Bethany 
road than in any other direction. 

The Mount of Evil Counsel is just in the rear, where 
" they took counsel against Jesus." We walked down the 
Mount of Olives, which is exceedingly steep and stony, and 
entered the Garden of Gethsemane, with its holy memories. 
Though we may- not know surety the spot in this on closure, 
3 T et somewhere just here, " being in an agony, he prayed 
more earnestly, and his sweat was it were great drops of 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 617 

blood falling to the ground ; " and our eyes fill with tears as 
we hear these words falling from the lips of the matchless 
Teacher. 

Two of our party sang that sweetly pathetic h}^mn, 
" 'Twas midnight and on Olive's brow," as we stood under 
one of the very ancient olive-trees. It is an ever-to-be- 
cherished hour, and though time and place make little 
change in heart or thought, yet Jordan and Gethsemane are 
refreshing places for devotion to the real God. * 

With a few leaves and flowers in our hands as precious 
souvenirs, we mount our horses and pass through the 
Valley of Jehosaphat (a fearfully rough way) . At one of 
the steepest descents, some one remarked, " we are now pre- 
pared to ride anywhere," And surely in America we would 
consider such a road unsuitable to be used at all. 

The tombs and sepulchres, hewn in solid rock, are very 
numerous here, and we stop first at the Pillar of Absalom 
(2 Samuel xviii. 18), ornamented with twenty-four columns 
of the Doric order. Quite an open space is seen where the 
Jews, to this day, throw in stones as they pass, in contempt 
for his unfilial conduct. Here, too, are the tombs of the 
Prophets and Judges, and a monument and tomb to Zacha- 
rias (Luke xi. 51). 

We pause at the Virgin's Fountain, where Jewesses come 
to bathe each Friday, before going to the " Wailing Place." 
At Joab's Well, the three valleys unite, Jehosaphat on the 
north, Kedron on the south, Hinnon on the west. At the 
Pool of Siloam some one in our party tried to sing, u By cool 
Siloam's shady rill," but the heat was so great, the way so 
steep, that it was rather a failure. 

We pass the Potter's Field (Matt, xxvii. 7), and Valley 
of Moloch (1 Kings xi. 7) , where persons were gathering bits 
of pottery and grinding them with large stones for cement. 



618 A SUMMER JAUXT 

Just across the way, on a hill, is a row of buildings, built 
by the Rothschilds, for free use by Jews who desire to 
return to Jerusalem, and are unable to do so for want of 
homes. 

We stop at the Upper Pool of Hezekiah, which is still 
older, and is really Gihon (1 Kings i. 33). The Lower 
Pool is close by our hotel, and was the one in which Bath- 
sheba was bathing. 

We reached Jerusalem after our twenty-eight miles for 
this day, very grateful for the journey, notwithstanding the 
fatigue. 

A half-hour's rest on the divan in our room, and we 
hasten to the Jews' "Wailing Place," a small area on the 
west of the wall which forms the foundation of the Mosque 
of. Omar inclosure, and the only portion visible (from the 
outside) of the original walls of Solomon's Temple. Here 
Jews of all ages, both men and women, gather every Fri- 
cla} T to ciy and lament over the destruction of the Temple. 
They were reading from Moses and the Prophets, one lead- 
ing and the rest joining in the refrain, while they wept as if 
their hearts would break ; and the stones are worn smooth 
with their kisses. There was not the slightest affectation, 
but the greatest sincerity, and to me it was a most affecting 
sight, the words constantly coming to mind, " By the waters 
of Bab} T lon we sat down and wept when we remembered 
Zion." This is the season for their seven cla3's' Feast of 
Tabernacles, and we were permitted to see the Tabernacle 
as they have it prepared for the last and great day of the 
feast. We went to two of their synagogues in the evening 
to see them dance before the Ark " as David did," two 
Pharisees seeming to make the greatest demonstrations, 
while all had copies of the ' ' Law and Prophets " in their 
hands, which they often kissed, as they sang and danced. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 619 

The buildings have arched roofs, like all Oriental houses, 
and are beautifully decorated. 

Several small parties remained in London to extend 
their acquaintance with the British metropolis, and to 
make excursions to Windsor Castle, Oxfoi'd, Strat- 
ford-on-Avon, the beautiful English lakes, and to other 
interesting places. The larger number, however, 
returned to New York in the fine steamer " Circassia," 
Capt. R. D. Munro, which sailed from Greenock 
August 17th, after having been kept back two days 
beyond her appointed time of departure, through the 
kindness of the Henderson Brothers, the agents of 
the Anchor Line. In this party were Dr. Tourjee, 
Mr. Carl Zerrahn, Mr. O. B. Bruce, and many of 
those who had contributed so much to the success of 
the entertainments given during the former voyage. 

Our last day in London was made up pretty thor- 
oughly of preparations for our departure, which was 
to follow in the evening. Messrs. Cook & Son, 
who had managed the details of the journey through- 
out, made excellent arrangements for our long ride 
from London. Those who wished could engage sleep- 
ing-berths in the Pullman cars, but the ordinary first- 
class cars were made very comfortable sleeping-places, 
inasmuch as only four passengers were permitted in 
the compartments usually assigned to six. Arriving 
at Greenock, we were soon transferred on a steam- 



620 ' A SUMMER JAUNT 

tender to the waiting vessel, which at once entered 
upon her long voyage across the Atlantic ocean. The 
scenery along the banks of the river Clyde, and the 
broad bay known as the Firth of Clyde, is varied and 
very charming, and if it did not seem to possess all 
the ravishing beauty it had when our eyes first rested 
upon it after a ten days' tossing on the great deep, 
with naught but the green waves to look upon, it 
could not fail to win enthusiastic admiration. The 
clouds were lowering, betokening a storm, with a 
possible roughness of the sea, but happily the storm 
did not come. Captain Munro sailed the "Circassia" 
quite near the Irish shore, as he was compelled to put 
in at Moville, and at Bengore Head treated us to an 
illustration of the remarkable echo given forth by its 
frowning wall of rocks. We also enjoyed a fine view 
of the Giant's Causeway, and of the beautiful scenery 
about the mouth of Lough Foyle, at the head of 
which Londonderry is situated. The ocean steamers 
do not go up to Londonderry, but are met opposite 
Moville by a steam-tug with passengers and freight. 
Moville is not the large and important place which it 
might be inferred to be from its frequent mention in 
the report of the movements of Atlantic steamers. 
In fact, it derives its prominence wholly from its sit- 
uation near Londonderry. In itself it is only a little 
hamlet, like several others lying along the western 
shore of Lough Foyle. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 621 

Fairly out at sea, and we turn^ our attention to our 
steamer and our companions. The " Circassia " is the 
newest and handsomest addition to the Anchor line, 
and this chanced to be her fourth trip to America. 
Built upon the same model as the "Devonia," she 
possesses all the advantages of that excellent vessel, 
not excepting an elegant music-room, together with 
many minor improvements. Pier commander, Captain 
E. D. Munro, is an experienced officer, who has won 
troops of friends while commanding other vessels of 
the same line, and his assistants were found to be 
courteous gentlemen as well as thorough seamen. 
Those members of our party who had gone over in the 
" Devonia " were greatly pleased to find that the kind- 
hearted Miss Cameron, the former excellent stewardess 
of that vessel, had been transferred to the "Circassia." 
The list of officers included in addition to Captain 
Munro, William Eussell, first officer; George Smith, 
second officer; Thomas Hoskins, third ^officer; Wil- 
liam Crockhart, fourth officer ; W. J. Mitchell, sur- 
geon ; John Mathieson, purser; P. M'Farlane, chief 
engineer ; and David Muir, chief steward. The stew- 
ardesses were Miss Cameron and Mrs. M'Master. 

The homeward voyage, considered as a whole, was 
a very pleasant one, the last three days proving espe- 
cially favorable ; but on one day, at least (Monday, 
August 19th), when we were four or five hundred 
miles off the Irish coast, the passengers were brought 



622 A SUMMER JAUNT 

to a realizing sense that they were on the " rolling 
deep." The great steamer rolled and pitched amid 
the giant billows, and everything not held fast — pas- 
sengers included — rolled and tumbled about in the 
most ludicrous way. In an unguarded moment, the 
voyager found himself thrown headlong to the oppo- 
site side of the deck, and, before he could attach him- 
self securely to the rail, he would be shot like a rocket, 
down the changed incline in the opposite direction. 
Deck-chairs and their seasick occupants fared roughly 
in all this turbulence ; and then, to enhance the dis- 
comfort of those who preferred the open air to the 
close cabins, big waves occasionally clashed completely 
over the hurricane-deck. All this happened without 
a downright storm, and it was happily of less than 
twenty-four hours' duration. With the exception of 
the day passed on the much dreaded "Banks," the sea 
was comparatively calm during the remainder of the 
voyage. 

On the fourth day out, the first of a series of even- 
ing concerts was given, under Mr. Bruce's able and 
energetic management. The other passengers en- 
tered fully into the spirit of this and the subsequent 
affairs of the kind, and the five evenings thus occupied 
were seasons of much enjoyment. The singing by 
Miss Hattie A. Snell, of Lowell, was a feature of 
especial excellence, and among the other vocalists 
were Miss Charlotte H. Munger, of Worcester, Mass., 



THKOUGH THE OLD WORLD. 623 

Miss Emily K. Johnston, of Godfrey, 111., Mrs. Sarah 
Lovell, of Montreal, Miss M'll wraith, of Hamilton, 
Canada, Miss Croall, of Haddington, Scotland, and 
Messrs. C. M. Lewis, of Boston, Angelo C. Scott, 
of Humboldt, Kan., H. H. McGranahan, of James- 
town, Pa., and W. C. Longmire, of Flatbush, N. Y. 
At the pianoforte, Mrs. O. B. Bruce, of Binghamton, 
N. Y., Mrs. Lovell, of Montreal, Miss Lulu Butler, of 
Knoxville, Tenn., and Miss Lillian M. Tucker, of Sus- 
quehanna, Pa., did most excellent service, and Mrs. 
Bruce also contributed several organ solos. To Mrs. 
Bruce also we were greatly indebted for most of the 
pianoforte accompaniments. There were readings and 
recitations by Mr. Bruce (who read his humorous 
" Song of Degrees", which had created so much 
amusement on the outward passage), Angelo C. Scott, 
of Humboldt, Kan., Thomas* Carson, of New York, 
H. F. Mandell, of Newton, Mass., Mr. John K. 
Bucklyn, of Mystic Bridge, Conn., and Rev. C. II. 
Beale, of Centre Moriches, Long Island, N. Y. The 
two gentlemen last named contributed original poems, 
the former taking as his topic the incidents of the 
"Rolling Monday," and the latter the "Table dTIote." 
Rev. Mr. Beale also contributed a poem recounting 
some of the happy experiences of the tour through 
Europe. 

On the evening of Saturday, August 24, the enter- 
tainment was devoted to the benefit of the Ship- 



624 A SUMMER JAUNT 

wrecked Mariners' Society. The following is Mr. 
Bruce's announcement of this entertainment, together 
with the programme, which will serve as a fair sample 
of the others : — 

Grand Gala-Night for the Benefit of the Shipwrecked Mariners 7 Society. 

The 

Circassian 

Cacophonatic 

Cachinnators. 

Galaxial 

scintillatists. 

Climactric Kesonations. 

eclipsical corruscatings. 

Hallinuciaciousness 

Euphonized. 
Orthographicalities 

PlIANTOMOTIZED. 

e locution aric 

Demonstratists. 

c antratrixi al 

Gymxasticizings. 

HAPvPSICOKDIAL 

Thrumminatations. 

Bavarianonese 

Symphonosium. 

octogenetieic 

Chorusbifunctionaries, 

Duo-Maleissnuous 

vocolambics 

Unparalleled Success. 

Unprecedented 

Appreciation. 

Exertions Initiated 

at 

8 Bells this Evening. 

N. B. Opera Glasses To Let : Inquire at the Galley. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 625 

PROGRAMME. 

1. Piano Solo, Fantasia on Irish airs, .... Pape. 

Miss Lillian M. Tncker. 

2. Song, " The Maid of Normandy," 

Mr. H. H. McGranahan. 

3. Recitation, " Defence of the Irish Race," . . Shiel. 

Mr. Angelo C. Scott. 

4. Song, "Waiting," . Millard. 

Miss Hattie J. Snell. 

5. Vocal Trio, " The day is done," .... Abt. 

Mrs. Lovell, Miss Munger, and Miss Johnston. 

6. Piano Solo, Fantasia on Scotch airs, . . . Sivari. 

Mrs. O. B. Bruce. 

7. Comic Song, " Mousetraps," 

Mr. W. C. Longmire. 

8. Song, " Strangers yet," Claribel. 

Miss Croall. 

9. Vocal Duet, " II Trovatore," . . . . . Verdi. 

Messrs. Scott and McGranahan. 

10. Comic Scene, "The Spelling-Match." 

11. Piano Solo, " Invitation to the Dance," . . . Weber. 

Miss Lulu Butler. 

12. Song, " The Warrior Bold," Adams. 

Mr. C. M. Lewis. 

13. Recitation, " The Water-Mill," 

Mr. Thomas Carson. 

14. Song, " Don't be Sorrowful, Darling," . . . Millard. 

Miss Charlotte H. Munger. 

15. Chorus, " Good-night, Farewell," .... Garrett. 

16. " The Musician from Bavaria," conducted by Mr. Carl Zerrahn. 

Accompanist, Mrs. O. B. Bruce. 

Mr. Lewis, Miss Munger, and Mr. Longmire were 
compelled to answer encores. The first-named gentle- 
man responded with a fine rendering of "Nancy 
Lee," by Adams ; -Miss Munger with Apthorp's song, 
" The Owl and Pussy-Cat " ; and Mr. Longmire with a 



626 A SUMMER JAUNT 

" Jubilee " ditty. After the eleventh, number upon the 
programme, Mr. Bruce, in a few eloquent words, 
called attention to the objects of the entertainment, 
and to the claims of those who imperilled their lives on 
the sea. A contribution was then taken up, several 
young ladies acting as collectors, and a handsome sum 
of money was secured for the object named. 

Wc were on the ocean two Sundays, and on each of 
those days religious services were held. On the 18th 
of August, these were conducted by Rev. S. H. Kel- 
logg, of Alleghany City, Pa. ; and, on the 25th, Rev. 
A. P. M'Diarmid, of Strathroy, Canada, officiated, 
assisted by Rev. P. M. Macdonald, of Boston. On 
the last occasion, the weather was warm and delight- 
ful, and the services were held under an awning on the 
hurricane-deck. In addition to the morning service, 
an afternoon service was held, under the direction of 
Rev. C. H. Beale, in which the steerage passengers 
and sailors were invited to unite. Morning services 
were held on other days of the voyage, under the 
direction of Rev. G. H. Scott, of Plymouth, N. H. ; 
Rev. Mr. Beale, Rev. Dr. Loomis, of San Francisco, 
and Rev. Robert J. Coster, D. D., of Pittsburgh, Pa. 

At the last evening meeting held on board the " Cir- 
cassia," the following resolutions, prepared by a com- 
mittee consisting of Rev. Robert J. Coster, D. D., of 
Pittsburgh ; Mr. C. M. Lewis, of Boston ; Mr. A. A. 
.Sweet, of Hopkinton, Mass. ; and Mr. E. Emory 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 627 

Johnson, of East Haddam, Conn., were unanimously 
adopted : — 

Resolved, That to Dr. Eben Tourjee, of Boston, belongs 
the honor of planning and organizing this, the largest ex- 
cursion party which ever left America, and our congratula- 
tions and thanks are hereby extended to him .for the com- 
plete success which has crowned his efforts, and that we 
have appreciated and thoroughly enjoyed the privileges 
afforded, and shall ever hold in fond remembrance the many 
associations which cluster around "The Tourjee Musical 
Party." 

Resolved, That Prof, and Mrs. O. B. Bruce deserve, and 
we hereby tender to them, our sincere thanks for contribut- 
ing, in many ways, to the enjoyment of the entire party ; also 
we extend our thanks to Mr. Carl Zerrahn, to Misses Char- 
lotte Munger, Charlotte Thompson, Hattie A. Snell, Emily 
K. Johnston, Isabella B. Tenney ; to Mrs. Sarah Lovell, 
Mrs. W. A. Ingham, Mrs. Charles F. Springer, Messrs. C. 
M. Lewis, J. K. Bucklyn, A. F. Lewis, H. H. McGranahan, 
Angelo C. Scott, Eev. C. II. Beale, Eev. W. P. Tilden, and 
others, for their musical, poetical, and declamatory enter- 
tainments ; also to the Rev. Messrs. P. J. Coster, A. B. 
Peabody, C. H. Beale, and other clergymen of the party, for 
conducting religious services. 

Resolved, That after a delightful season of travel, carried 
out in accordance with Dr. Tourjee' s excellent programme, 
we heartily indorse the excursion system of -Messrs. Cook, 
Son & Jenkins, under which our movements were guided. 

Resolved, That to Capt. Craig, and officers of the steam- 
ship " Devonia," and to Capt. R. D. Munro, and officers of 
the steamship " Circassia," we extend our thanks for their 
close attention in providing for our wants, as well as for the 



628 A SUMMER JAUNT 

uniform courtesy which we have received during .our voyage 
to and from Europe. 

An additional resolution of thanks, offered by Rev. 
Mr. Kellogg, of Alleghany City, Pa., was tendered to 
Capt. Munro, of the "Circassia," and his brother 
officers. 

On the tenth morning after our departure from the 
Scottish coast, we awoke to a realizing sense that we 
were approaching American shores. Coney Island, 
with its white beach and long line of hotels, was in 
plain view upon our right, and, ahead of us, the green 
highlands of the New Jersey coast were gleaming in 
the eastern sun. The pilot had come on board some- 
time in the night, a circumstance that had been 
announced by a little uproariousness in the smoking- 
room on the part of the gentlemen who had ventured 
in a " pilot-pool." We were soon within the Narrows, 
and sailing up New York Bay. There was a very 
brief detention at the quarantine-station, the delay 
being no longer than was necessary to enable a port- 
physician to come on board and receive a clean bill of 
health, and then came the interviews of the custom- 
house officers. Each passenger arriving from Europe, 
by steamer, is required to make out a sworn statement 
in regard to the contents of his trunks and other 
pieces of luggage, and this proceeding is only prelim- 
inary to a personal examination of his effects when he 
lands at the pier. The honest traveller has little to 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 629 

fear, however, although the investigation is made much 
more searching, as a general thing, than he has been 
accustomed to undergo in passing from one European 
country to another. The experience of the Tourjee 
party, in these particulars, while travelling abroad, 
was of a much pleasanter character than falls to the lot 
of ordinary tourists, inasmuch as the word of the con- 
ductor was generally sufficient to exempt the entire 
party from trouble, anxiety, or scarcely more than a 
moment's detention. To the credit of the American 
officials be it said, the duties which devolved upon 
them were performed very courteously, as well as 
with a good degree of thoroughness, and, it is pre- 
sumed, Uncle Sam received all due enrichment from 
the returning travellers. 

In the foregoing pages, the pleasant experiences of 
the Tourjee Excursion Party of 1878 have been 
sketched with considerable fullness. Much more 
might be said, but it is needless to rehearse anew the 
many happy incidents of the tour, or to speculate upon 
the rich results which must accrue to all intelligent 
minds from such an extended and well planned round 
of travel. That the excursion was successful in its 
every feature, — social, educational, and otherwise, — 
need not be told to those who were its fortunate par- 
ticipants ; nor yet to those who, without such a 
pleasurable experience to look back upon, have 
attentively read these pages. 



630 A SUMMER JAUNT 

Our record would be incomplete without the follow- 
ing quotation from Dr. Tourjee's " Christmas Greeting" 
to the members of his party : — 

It has occurred to me that it would not be out of place on 
my part, to address a few words of friendly greeting to 
those of our number who have been returned to their homes 
in safet} r , after having enjo3-ecl, according to a very general 
expression, an excursion of much more than ordinary inter- 
est, — embracing the best opportunities for the broadening 
of their musical and literary culture, and opening fields for 
future thought which will yield a life-long revenue of 
pleasure. 

The fact that not a single member of our party suffered 
any injuiy, but that even some who went out as invalids, 
came home greatly invigorated, and that a large majority 
received such an impulse to health as will prove of no little 
value to them in their educational work, should call forth 
our heartiest gratitude to the kind Providence that watched 
over us through all our journeyings, and shielded us from 
harm. It has been my privilege to receive personal visits 
from a large number who remained in Europe for some time 
after the main body returned ; also numerous letters from 
other members of the party, and all have assured me of 
their entire satisfaction with the way in which the excursion 
in all its detail was executed. 

Meanwhile, allow me to tender to you this greeting, and 
to express my warmest thanks for the way in which you 
co-operated witli me in my endeavors to make the under- 
taking a grand and complete success. 



THROUGH THE OLD WORLD. 631 

Since the above greeting was sent forth, and since a 
part of this book has been written, death has removed 
the most venerable of our number, Mr. Eben S. 
Ricker, of Locust Corner, Clermont County, Ohio. 
Mr. Kicker's death occurred Saturday, March 1, 1879. 
He will be kindly remembered by all who enjoyed his 
genial companionship during the excursion. Although 
advanced in years, and enfeebled, he enjoyed keenly 
the pleasures of travel, and the opportunities afforded 
of further enriching a well-stored mind. He died 
universally respected. 



' 



APPENDIX. 



LIST OF MEMBERS OF THE TOURJEE EXCURSION PARTY 

OF 1878. 



THE "DEVONIA PARTY. 



A. 



Allison, Miss Mary A. D., Manchester, N. H. 

Allison, Mrs. Charles F., Sackville, N. B. 

Andrews, Miss M. E., Cambridge, Mass. 

Atkins, Miss H. A., Mariners' Harbor, Staten Island, N. Y. 

Atkins, Mr. and Mrs. D. F-, Long Island City, Long Island, N. Y. 

Atwood, Mr. Oscar, Plattsburg, N. Y. 

Austin, Miss Mary E., New Bedford, Mass. 

Ayres, Miss Susie, Auburndale, Mass. 

B. 

Bacon, Mr. N. P., Worcester, Mass. 

Bailey, Mrs. E. M., New York City. 

Baldwin, Miss Belle, New York City. 

Ball, Mrs. Amanda, Fall River, Mass. 

Barnard, Miss Annie W., Lynn, Mass. 

Barnard, Miss Lizzie F. S., Lynn, Mass. 

Baker, Miss Hannah E., Mariners' Harbor, S. I., N. Y. 

Baker, Mr. Charles F., Fitchburg, Mass. 

Barrett, Mr. George R,, New Ipswich, N. H. 

Beale, Rev. C. H., Centre Moriches, Long Island, N. Y. 

Bellows, Dr. A. F.,* Auburndale, Mass. 

Bentley, Mr. Henry, New Brighton, Pa. 

* Joined the party in Europe. 



634 APPENDIX. 

Bishop, Miss Agnes M., Bridgetown, N. S. 

Bolles, Miss J. T., Washington, D. C. 

Bolles, Mr. Frank, Washington, D. C. 

Bonnelle, Mr. Frank J., Boston, Mass. 

Boomer, Mrs. Elizabeth M., Fall River, Mass. 

Bourne, Mr. Jacob F., Boston, Mass. 

Bowcn, Miss M. B., Union Female College, Oxford, Miss. 

Brigham, Mr. Wilbur F., Hudson, Mass. 

Briggs, Miss L. P., New Bedford, Mass. 

Broad, Mr. J. Astor, Worcester, Mass. 

Broughton, Mrs. Sarah H., Camden, Oneida County, N. Y. 

Brown, Dr. J. A., Boston, Mass. 

Brown, Miss Helen A., Jersey City Heights, N. J. 

Brown, Mrs. Willard, Lowell, Mass. 

Bruce, Prof, and Mrs. 0. B., Binghamton, N. Y. 

Bruce, Mrs. E. A., Boston Highlands, Mass. 

Bryant, Miss Mary A., Columbia, Tenn. 

Bucklyn, Mr. John K., Mystic Bridge, Conn. 

Burton, Mr. Andrew N., Boston, Mass. 

Butler, Miss Lula, Memphis, Tenn. 

C. 

Carle, Miss Etta S., East Troy, Wis. 
Carrothers, Miss Kate, Oxford, Miss. 
Chapman, Miss Margaret R., Beverly, Mass. 
Chase, Rev. E. S., Cochituate, Mass. 
Chesley, Mr. T. W., Bridgetown, N. S. 
Clarke, Miss M. A., Fall River, Mass. 
Clarke, Mr. Arthur E., Manchester, N. H. 
Clark, Miss Julia C, Boston, Mass. 
Clark, Miss Lizzie M., Phillipburg, N. J. 
Coates, Miss Helen J., Freeport, 111. 
Colby, Mr. George W., Taunton, Mass. 
Connelly, Miss Mary C, Corinth, Miss. 
Coster, Rev. Robert J., D. D., Pittsburgh, Penn„ 
Crapster, Miss Mary F., Simpsonville, Ky. 
Cushing, Miss Mary, Cleveland, Ohio. 

D. 

Denise, Mr. Ira C, Franklin, Warren County, Ohio* 
Dix, Miss Evelyn, Boston, Mass. 



APPENDIX. 635 

Dix, Miss Florence, Boston, Mass. 

Dix, Miss M. H., Washington, D. C. 

Doane, Miss Cynthia, Mechanicsville, Bucks County, Pa. 

Durfee, Miss Eliza, Fall River, Mass. 

E. 

Eastman, Miss Sophia E., South Hadley, Mass. 

Edson, Prof, and Mrs. H. K., Denmark Academy, Denmark, Lee County, 

Iowa. 
Ely, Mr. and Mrs. Ralph, Cleveland, Ohio. 
Emerson, Mr. F. D., Cincinnati, Ohio. 
Emery, Mrs. D. S., Boston, Mass. 

F. 

Fay, Miss Eliza A., Boston, Mass. 

Fay, Mrs. George W., Marlboro', Mass. 

Feagles, Miss Clara, Amity, Orange County, N. Y. 

Field, Miss A. Louise, Taunton, Mass. 

Fisk, Rev. N. B., Marlboro', Mass. 

Fisher, Rev. George W., Peaeedale, R. I 

Folger, Miss Ellen A., Concord, N. H. 

Foster, Miss Fannie E., Boston, Mass. 

Fox, Mrs. John G., Carson City, Nevada. 

Frcedley, Miss S. Sophia, Norristown, Pa. 

Freeman, Dr. Z., Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Freeman, Mr. Leonard R., Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Freeman, Mrs. E. R., Cincinnati, Ohio. 

G. 

Gardner, Miss Clara, Hastings, Minn. 

Gardner, Mr. 0. W., Boston, Mass. 

Gates, Mr. E. P., Lake City, Minn. 

Gates, Mrs. Helen L., Lake City, Minn. 

Gilmore, Miss Helen, North Raynham, Mass. 

Glenn, Miss L. G., Lebanon, Pa. 

Gould, Mr. and Mrs. Charles H., Danvers, Mass. 

Green, Mrs. Laura T., Milton Lower Mills, Mass. 

Greve, Mr. C. M., Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Griswold, Mrs. G. F., Janesvilie, Wis. 

Gunckel, Mr. Ernest W., Middletown, Ohio. 

Gyger, Miss Hannah, Bryn Mawr, Montgomery Co., Pa. 



636 APPENDIX. 

H. 

Haines, Miss Dr. E., Newark, N. J. 

Hanaford, Mrs. P. C, Chicago, HI. 

Harkness, Mrs. B. H., Humboldt, Humboldt Co., Iowa. 

Harlow, Mr. Richard A., Springfield, 111. 

Haskell, Rev. N. A., Harvard, Mass. 

Hawkes, Mrs. Ezra, Boston, Mass. 

Hawley, Mrs. Thomas P., Carson City, Nevada. 

Hobson, Mr. Harry M., Nashua, N. H. 

Holcombe, Miss E. A., Brooklyn, N. Y. 

Holden, Mr. and Mrs. Luther L., Boston, Mass. 

Hollingshead, Miss Rebecca, Medford, Burlington Co., N. J. 

Holyoke, Mrs. Mary B., Norwich, Conn. 

Hubbard, Mrs. Fannie V., Brighton, 111. 

Hume, Mrs. Ellen, Brighton, 111. 

. I. 

Ingham, Mr. and Mrs. W. A., Cleveland, Ohio. 
Inman, Miss Mary E., Burrillville, R. I. 
Inman, Mr. Olney F., Burrillville, R. I. 
Irwin, Mrs. M. E., Cincinnati, Ohio. 

J. 

Jefts, Miss Abbie F., Hudson, Mass. 
Jcfts, Mr. L. F., Hudson, Mass. 
Jefts, Mrs. E. S., Hudson, Mass. 
Johnson, Miss Vianna II., Concord, N. H. 
Johnson, Mr. E. Emory, Moodus, Conn. 
Johnston, Miss Emily K., Godfrey, Madison Co., 111. 
Joselyn, Mr. A. D., Jersey City Heights, N. J. 
Judson, Dr. Edwin, Chicago, 111. 

K. 

Kaley, Mr. Frank Elmer, Milford, N. H. 
Kaufmann, Miss K. E., Cleveland, Ohio. 
Kelley, Miss Susie, Woodland, Cal. 
Kelley, Mrs. J. M,, Woodland, Cal. 
Kellogg, Miss Amelia, Chicago, 111. 
Kimball, Miss Mary E., Leominster, Mass. 
Kimball, Rev. and Mrs. 0. D., Leominster, Mass. 



APPENDIX. 637 



Knight, Miss Ellen F., Burrillville, R. I. 
Koons, Miss Clara, Lambertville, N. J. 



L. 



Lane, Mrs. Zenas M., Rockland, Mass. 

Lane, Mr. G. F., Birmingham, Huntingdon Co., Pa. 

Leland, Miss Mary G., Fall River, Mass. 

Leonard, Miss Anna E., Female Seminary, Oxford, Ohio. 

Lethbridge, Miss Kate A., Boston Highlands, Mass. 

Lewis, Mr. A. F., Fryeburg, Me. 

Lewis, Mr. and Mrs. C. M., Boston, Mass. 

Lovell, Mrs. Sarah, Montreal, P. Q. 

Lyman, Miss Mary E., Middlefield, Conn. 

M. 

Macdonald, Rev. P. M., Boston, Mass. 

Marble, Miss Elizabeth G., Arlington, Mass. 

Marshall, Rev. Perry, Mendon, Vt. 

McGranahan, Mr. H. H., Jamestown, Pa. 

Mendall, Miss Mary S., New Bedford, Mass. 

Miles, Mrs. T. C, Boston, Mass. 

Millard, Miss B., Pana, 111. 

Millard, Miss E., Pana, 111. 

Mills, Miss Sarah M., Mary Institute, St. Louis, Mo. 

Mitchell, Miss Cora, Providence, R. I. 

Moody, Rev. R. B., Milford, N. H. 

Moore, Mrs. J. G., Lisbon, N. H. 

Morgan, Mrs. H. E., Milford, Mass. 

Morse, Miss E. G., Hartford, Conn. 

Morse, Mr. and Mrs. Charles E., Charlton, Mass. 

Mowry, Miss Eliza A., North Scituate, R. I. 

Munger, Miss Charlotte H., Worcester, Mass. 

N. 

Nelson, Miss Molly, Woodland, Cal. 
Nutting, Mrs. H. T., Royalston, Mass. 



P. 



Page, Miss Sarah H., Cambridge, Mass. 
Paige, Dr. Nomus, Taunton, Mass. 



638 APPENDIX. 

Paine, Miss M. Janet, Rockland, Mass. 
Palmer, Dr. Joseph W., Fitchburg, Mass. 
Patchin, Miss Charlotte E., Champaign, 111. 
Peabody, Rev. A. B., Stratham, N. H. 
Perkins, Miss F. W., Middlefield, Conn. 
Perry, Miss Caroline S., Boston, Mass. 
Perry, Miss Martha A., Boston, Mass. 
Pickard, Miss M. E., Sackville, N. B. 
Pomeroy, Miss Mary A., Franklin, Vt. 

R. 

Ray, Rev. and Mrs. John W., Lake City, Minn. 

Rickcr, Mr. E. L., Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Robbins, Mr. John, Boston, Mass. 

Root, Mr. and Mrs. M. A., Bay City, Mich. 

Rose, Mrs. A. F., Clyde, Ohio. 

Rugg, Mr. Charles P., New Bedford, 



S. 
Safford, Mrs. A. E., Boston, Mass. 
Scott, Mr. Angelo C, Humboldt, Kan. 
Sessions, Miss E. K., Panama, N. Y. 
Shattuck, Miss Hattie N., Warren, Pa. 
Shaw, Miss Annie H., East Dennis, Mass. 
Shaw, Mrs. Mary C, Paterson, N. J. 
Shaw, Rev. Charles D., Paterson, N. J. 
Shepherd, Miss B. B., Manchester, N. H. 
Shick, Mr. Cyrus, Anna, 111. 
Shoemaker, Mrs. R. A., Belvidere, N. J. 
Smith, Miss Sarah, Burlington, Iowa. 
Smith, Mr. and Mrs. Charles, Boston, Mass. 
Smith, Mrs. J. G., Boston, Mass. 
Smith, Mr. W. E. C, Boston, Mass. 
Smith, Rev. Henry R., Barre, Mass. 
Snell, Miss Hattie A., Lowell, Mass. 
Sortwell, Mrs. D. R., East Cambridge, Mass. 
Spaulding, Miss I. R., Salem, Mass. 
Springer, Mrs. Charles F., Anamosa, Iowa. 
Squire, Mr. John Adams, Arlington, Mass. 
Squire, Mrs. John P., Arlington, Mass. 
Squire, Miss Kate I., Arlington, Mass. 



APPENDIX. 639 



Squire, Miss Nannie G., Arlington, Mass. 

Steckel, Mr. Amos, Bloomfield, Iowa. 

Steele, Mr. F. L., Winchester, Mass. 

Stillman, Miss Phoebe A., Normal School, Oswego, N. Y. 

Suck, Mr. Carl, Boston, Mass. 

Sweet, Mr. and Mrs. Albert E., Burrillville, R. I. 

Sweet, Mr. Alvan A., Hopkinton, Mass. 



Temple, Miss Anna G., Dubuque, Iowa. 
Tenney, Miss Isabella B., Winchester, Mass. 
Thompson, Miss Charlotte, New Milford, Conn. 
Thorburn, Rev. J., Ottawa, P. O. 
Tilden, Rev. W. P., Boston, Mass. 
Tourjee, Miss Lizzie, Auburndale, Mass. 
Tourjee, Mr. and Mrs. Eben, Auburndale, Mass. 
Tourtelotte, Miss Mary A., West Medway, Mass. 
Towne, Mr. E. B, Jr., North Raynham, Mass. 
Towne, Mr. E. B., North Raynham, Mass. 
Towne, Miss Etta B., North Raynham, Mass. 



Valentine, Mrs. M. P., Keosauqua, Iowa. 
Virgin, Miss Ellen, Bo'ston, Mass. 

W. 

Washburne, Miss Lulie M., Medford, Mass. 

Washburne, Mr. Herbert F., Medford, Mass. 

Watson, Rev. John P., Mashapaug, Conn. 

Watts, Miss Annie, Dubuque, Iowa. 

Weston, Miss E., Boston Highlands, Mass. 

White, Miss B. M., Whitesboro', Oneida County, N. Y. 

White, Miss Caroline, Mt. Carroll, 111. 

Wilcox, Miss Jessie, Boston, Mass. 

Willis, Miss Irene D. S., Hannibal, Mo. 

Wilson, Mrs. J. M., Worcester, Mass. 

Woods, Miss Henrietta, Swampscott, Mass. 

Y. 

Young, Miss Mary, Boston, Mass. 



640 APPENDIX. 

Z. 

Zerrahn, Mr. and Mrs. Carl, Boston, Mass. 

THE " CIRCASSIA " PARTY. 

B. 

Bausman, Mr. J. W. B., Lancaster, Pa. 

Benedict, Miss Mattie S., Boston, Mass. 

Benedict, Rev. A. J., Gorham, N. H. 

Bennett, Mr. Thomas E., Philadelphia, Pa. 

Blackman, Miss Emily C, Montrose, Pa. 

Brewer, Moses K., M. D., Baltic, Conn. 

Brooks, Miss Mary 0., Granville, Licking County, Ohio. 

Bruneau, Mrs. A. B., Fall River, Mass. 

Bull, Mr. S. A. Carlisle, Mass. 

Burchard, Prof. O. R., Fredonia, N. Y. 

C. 
Carson, Miss Rachel, Cincinnati, Ohio. 
Chapman, Miss Clara E., Boston Highlands. 
Chapman, Miss Martha D., Boston Highlands. 
Clothier, Miss Minnie T., Bergen, N. Y. 
Cotting, Miss Elizabeth H., Boston Highlands, Mass. 
Cotting, Mrs. B. E., Boston Highlands, Mass. 
Cushing, Mrs. W. B., Fredonia, N. Y. 

D. 

Dunaway, Miss Mary E., Cincinnati, Ohio. 

E. 
Edge, Hon. J. P., Downington, Pa. 

F. 

Fullager, Miss Mary L., Dunkirk, N. Y 

G. 

Grant, Mr. Wesley M., Boston, Mass. 

H. 

Holt, Mr. Fred P., Hartford, Conn. 



APPENDIX. 641 

I. 

Ingalls, Mrs. S. T., San Jose, Cal. 

King, Mr. Brinton, Chadd's Ford, Pa. 

L/ 

Landrum, Mrs. J. S., Phelps, N. Y. 

Lawrence, Mr. George 0. C., Newton Centre, Mass. 

Little, Mr. Charles 0., Delaware, Ohio. 

M. 

Mann, Miss Mary A., Hartford, Conn. 

Maple, Rev. J. C, Mexico, Mo. 

McDonnell, Mr. G. D., Almonte, Ontario, Canada. 

McKee, Miss A. E., Seven Mile, Butler County, Ohio. 

McKinstry, Miss Annie, Fredonia, N. Y. 

Metcalfe, Mr. Fred'k, Salem, Roanoke County, Pa. 

Mitchell, Dr. Ellen E., Montrose, Pa. 

O. 

Odell, Miss Maria E., Eastport, Me. 

P. 

Page, Mr. A. Leroy, New Haven, Conn. 
Phelps, Miss Eliza T., Andover, Conn. 
Powers, Mr. and Mrs. Samuel L., Boston, Mass. 
Platts, Miss Laura F., Cincinnati, Ohio. 

Q. 

Quale, Mr. R. J., Silver Creek, N. Y. 

R. 

Riddle, Mr. Charles L., Gilroy, Cal. 

S. 

Sheldon, Mr. George, Sherman, N. Y. 
Shepardson, Miss Lida D., Granville, Licking County, Ohio. 
Shepardson, Miss Mary E., Granville, Licking County, Ohio. 
Shepardson, Rev. D., D. D., Granville, Licking County, Ohio. 
Stuart, Mrs. M. M., Phelps, N. Y. 



C42 APPENDIX. 

T. 

Taylor, Mr. E., East Rochester, Ohio. 
Trimble, Miss Kathern, Covington, Ky. 
Trimble, Mr. William, Covington, Ky. 

W. 

Ward, Mr. Samuel L., Cambridgeport, Mass. 
Warfel, Hon. J. B., Lancaster, Pa. 
Warren, Miss Florence, Felton County, Del. 
Whitney, Hon. M. B., Westfield, Mass. 
Whitney, Miss Martha R., Lancaster, Mass. 
Wickcrsham, Hon. J. P., Lancaster, Pa. 
Wilson, Miss Josephine, Boston Highlands, Mass. 
Wilson, Miss Rosalie, Boston Highlands, Mass. 
Wise, Miss Margaret T., Boston, Mass. 
Wood, Miss Caroline, Boston Highlands, Mass. 
Wyman, Mr. and Mrs. Abner P., Arlington, Mass. 



INDEX 



Antwerp, 389. 

Cathedral, 391. 

Museum of Paintings, 393. 

Plantin Museum, 394. 

Rubens's Pictures, 393. 
Brussels, 377. 

Cathedral of Ste. Gudule, 381. 

Conservatoire de Musique, 386. 

G-alerie St. Hubert, 381. 

Guild Houses, 380. 

Hdtel de Ville, 377. 



BELGIUM. 

Brussels : 

Lace Manufactories, 388. 

Monuments and Statues, 385. 

Musee Wiertz, 384. 

Museum of Paintings, 383. 

Park, 382. 

Palaces, 382. 
Liege, 376. 
Louvain, 377. 
Mechlin, 389. 
Waterloo, Battle-field of, 388. 



ENGLAND. 



Brighton, 209. 
Carlisle, 104, 105. 
Crystal Palace, 197-202. 

Entertainments at, 
202. 
English Channel, 210. 
Greenwich, 196. 
London, 119-207. 

Albert Memorial, 185, 186. 

Bank of England, 196. 

British Museum, 178-182. 

Buckingham Palace, 190. 

Cabs, 131, 132. 

Charing Cross, 152, 153. 

City, 122-124. 

Cleopatra's Needle, 192, 193. 

Crown Jewels, 176, 177. 

Docks, 195. 

East End, 126. 

Fleet Street, 157. 

General Post-Office, 167. 

Great Fire, 125. 

Green Park, 189. 

Horticultural Gardens, 185. 

Houses of Parliament, 132-140. 



200- 



London : 

Hyde Park, 188, 189. 
Kensington Gardens, 187, 188. 
Metropolitan Railway, 128, 129. 
Midland Grand Hotel, 120. 
Monuments and Statues, 125, 141, 

150, 152, 153, 167, 189, 197. 
' National Gallery, 153-156. 
Nelson Monument, 153. 
Omnibuses, 130. 
Opera, 202. 
Parks, 187-191. 
Royal Albert Hall, 186, 187. 

Concert at, 187. 
Royal Exchange, 197. 
Seeing the Queen, 202-205. 
Somerset House, 156. 
South Kensington Museum, 182-185. 
Spurgeon, and his Work, 205-207. 
Strand, 156, 157. 
St. Pancras Station, 119. 
St. Paul's, 122, 159-166. 

Churchyard, 167. 
Temple, 157. 
Thames, 194-196. 



644 



INDEX. 



London : 

Thames Embankment, 191-194. 
Tower, 167-178. 
Tramways, 130. 
West End, 125. 
Westminster Abbey, 142-150. 
Westminster Hall, 140, 141. 
Whitehall, 151, 152. 



Midland Railway, 105-107, 116-119. 
Newhaven, 209. 
Normanton, 117. 
Oxford, 556, 560. 
Stratford-on-Avon, 560-569. 
Woolwich, 196. 



FRANCE. 



Dieppe, 210-213. 
Paris, 216-269. 

ArcdeTriomphedel'Etoile,228, 229. 
du Caroussel, 241, 
242. 

Bois de Boulogne, 229. 

Boulevards, 219. 

Buttes Chaumont, 254. 

Champs Elysees, 223, 224. 

Colonne de Juillet, 246. 

Colonne Vendome, 245, 246. 

Conservatoire de Musique, 250-252. 

Ecole Militaire, 245. 

Exposition, 255-262. 

Concerts at, 260-262. 

Grand Opera House, 248-250. 

Halles Centrales, 254. 

Hotel Bedford, 217. 

Hotel des Invalides, 243-245. 

Isle de la Cite, 233, 234. 

Louvre, 238-241. 

Madeleine, 229-231. 

Mammoth Balloon, 242. 

Monuments and Statues, 225, 245- 
248. 



Paris : 

Morgue, 235. 

Napoleon's Tomb, 244, 245. 

Notre Dame, 231-233. 

Obelisk of Luxor, 225. 

Opera Comique, 250. 

Palais de Justice, 234, 235. 

Palais du Luxembourg, 242. 

Palais Royal, 241-243. - 

Pantheon, 235, 236. ' 

Pere-la-Chaise, 252-254. 

Place de la Concorde, 225-228. 

Place des Victoires, 247. 

Place du Trone, 247, 248. 

Reception at Mr. Thomas Cook's, 
267-269. 

Sainte Chapelle, 235. 

Seine, 220. 

Sewers, 221. 

Street Cleaning, 221-223. 

Tuileries Gardens, 224. 
Rouen, 214, 215. 
Sevres, 267. 
St. Cloud, 262, 263. 
Versailles, 263-267. 



Aix-la-Chapelle, 374. 
Baden-Baden, 336. 
Biebrich, 351. 
Bingen, 356. 
Bonn, 365. 
Boppard, 361. 
Bromersburg, The, 355. 
" Cat," The, 359. 
Coblenz, 362. 
Cologne, 565. 

" Devil's Ladder," The, 357. 
Drachenfels, 364. 
Ehrenbreitstein, 341. 
Eltville, 355. 



GERMANY. 

Frankfort-on-the-Main, 346. 
Gutenfels, Castle of, 358. 
Heidelberg, 342. 
Johannisberg, Castle of, 355. 
Lahneck, Castle of, 362. 
Laufenburg, 325. 
Lurlei, The, 359. 
Marksburg, Castle of, 361. 
" Mouse," The, 359. 
" Mouse Tower," 356. 
Nonnenworth, 363. 
Oel-Bach, 337. 
Reichonstoin, Castle of, 357. 
Rheineck, Castle of, 362. 



INDEX. 



645 



Rheinfels, Castle of, 360. 
Rheingau, The, 354. 
Rheinstein, Castle of, 357. 
Rhine, The, 319-321, 323-326, 352. 
Rolandseck, 363. 
Rudesheim, 355. 
Schonberg, Castle of, 359. 



Middleburg, 397. 
Roosendaal, 396. 



Dublin, 169-171. 
Dunluce Castle, 43. 
Giant's Causeway, 42. 



Capri, Blue Grotto of, 610. 

Florence, 432-445. 

Genoa, 548-552. 

Lakes, 611. 

Milan, 408-413. 

Mont Cenis Tunnel, 406, 407. 

Naples, 506-517, 541-543. 

Pisa, 543-548. 

Pompeii, 514, 517-532. 

Reception of the King and Queen, 

432. 
Rome, 446-508. 

Appian Way, 471-474. 

Basilica of St. Paul, 479. 

Baths of Caracalla, 468-471. 

Capitol, 460-464. 

Catacombs, 489-491. 

Colosseum, 456-460. 

Column of Trajan, 504, 505. 



Sooneck, Tower of, 357. 
Stahleck, Castle of, 358. 
Stolzenfels, Castle of, 361. 
Strassburg, 329. 

" Two Brothers," Castles of the, 
Wiesbaden, 349. 



HOLLAND. 

I Vlissingen (Flushing), 397. 
I Zuid-Beveland, 396. 

IRELAND. 

Irish Coast, 41-43. 
Moville, 620. 

ITALY. 

Rome : 

Forum, 463. 

Mamertine Prison, 475-477. 

Pantheon, 464-468. 

Presentation to Signor Barattoni, 
508. 

Santa Scala, 479, 480. 

St. Clement's House, 409-503. 

St. Paul's House, 477, 478. 

St. Peter's, 448-452. 

Tomb of Cecilia Metella, 472, 473. 

Triumphal Arches, 454-456. 

Vatican, 480-489. 

Visit to the Pope, 491-496. 
Sorrento, 610. 
Turin, 552, 553. 
Venice, 417-432. 
Verona, 413-417. 
Vesuvius, 532-541. 



Anchor Fleet, 6. 
" Bell Time," 15. 

Bruce, O. B., Addresses of, 90, 268. 
Bucklyn, John K., Address of, 89. 
Burial at Sea, 36, 37. 
" Chalking," 13. 
«« Circassia," Steamer, 606, 621. 
Congratulatory Note, Dr. Tourjee's, 630 
Cook, John M., Address of, 69, 70. 
Cook, Thomas, Address of, 268, 269. 
"Devonia," Steamer, 5-7. 
Entertainments at Sea, 16-19, 20, 21, 29 
30, 34, 35, 39, 40, 44-46, 622. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 

European Railways, 106-116. 

Fisk, Rev. N. B., Address of, 90. 

Fourth of July Celebration, 25-28. 

Holy Land, 613-618. 

Jerusalem, 618. 

"Land ho!" 41. 

McLaren, Jr., Duncan, Address of, 86- 



Programmes of Entertainments, 16, 17, 
20, 24, 29, 30, 34, 39, 40, 44, 45, 624. 

Reignard E., Address of, 269. 

Religious Services, 11, 12, 16, 28, 34, 37, 
38, 41, 626. 



646 



INDEX. 



Resolutions, 45, 46, 627. 
Robertson Thomas, Address of, 91. 
Root, M. A., Address of, 269. 
" Song of Degrees," 18-20. 



Thorburn, Rev. J., Address of, 90. 
Tilden, Rev. W. P., Ode by, 26, 27. 
TourjSe Dr., Address of, 91. 



SCOTLAND 

Abbotsford, 98-101. 
Edinburgh, 63-93. 

Antiquarian Museum, 82. 

Arthur's Seat, 83. 

Canongate, 74. 

Castle, 79-82. 

High Street, 75, 76. 

Holyrood Palace and Chapel, 70-74. 

Knox's House, 75. 

Monuments and Statues, 66-69, 78, 
79, 84, 85. 

National Gallery, 83. 

Parliament House, 77. 

Queen's Drive, 83. 

Reception by Sabbath-School Teach- 
ers' Union, 85-93. 



Edinburgh : 

School of the Theory of Music, 8 
84. 

Scott Memorial, 66, 67. 

St. Giles's, 76-78. 

" Tbc Heart of Mid Lothian," 77. 

University, 83, 84. 
Firth of Clyde, 43, 620. 
Glasgow, 47-51. 
Inversnaid, 54, 55. 
Loch Katrine, 56, 57. 
Loch Lomond, 50-54. 
Melrose Abbey, 95-98. 
Stirling, 59-63. 
Stronachlacher, 55, 56. 
Trosachs, 57. 
Waverley Route, 93-102. 



Basel, 326-328. 

Bern, 290-294. 

Bodeli Railway, 295, 296, 301. 

Brienz, Lake of, 301, 303. 

Brunig Pass, 303-305. 

Cbillon, Castle of, 283-285. 

Fribourg, 286-290. 

Geneva, 272-280. 

Gersau, 309, 310. 

Giessbach, Falls of the, 301-303. 

Grindelwald, 298, 299. 

Interlaken, 296, 297, 301. 

Lausanne, 282, 283. 

Lauterbrunnen, 297, 298. 

Leman, Lake, 280, 281. 



SWITZERLAND. 

Lucerne, 310-315. 

Lake of, 305, 306, 308-310. 
Organ Concerts, 279, 280, 289, 290, 291, 

292, 314, 315. 
Ouchy, 280. 

Rigi, The, 306-308, 579, 590, 599, 600. 
Rhine, Falls of the, 319, 320. 
Sclrifflnmsen, 319, 322, 323. 
Staubbach, Falls of the, 298. 
Tell's Chapel, 310. 
Thun, 294. 

Lake of, 295. 
Zug, 315. 
Zurich, 315-319. 



m mi Paris. 



£1*1 *j» 

These maps form very accurate and unique guides to both of the 
above cities. All the public buildings and places of amusement are 
placed upon the map in their relative positions, and the architectural 
features of each is well represented — the name of each building is written 
so that any stranger could find his way about these large cities with the 
utmost ease ; there is also some very useful descriptive matter attached 
to each. The maps are well drawn and elegantly printed, and should be 
possessed by all who intend to visit these cities. The undersigned is the 
sole proprietor of them, and they cannot be obtained through any other 
publisher. 

30 Cents for ootlx Maps Trith stiff Covers. 
30 •• either «« « " 

15 *' eitlier " unbound. 

35 " both " " 



E. TOURJEE, 

Music Hall, Boston, Mass. 




One of the most remarkable books of the age, is the Autobiography 
of Father Henson (Mrs. Stowe's original Uncle Tom), a colored man, 
ninety years of age, who passed the first forty years of his life in Southern 
slavery, from which he made a most daring escape, with his wife and 
four little children. The latter years of his life have been passed as a 
respected citizen and preacher of Canada ; and, during his recent visit to 
England, he was honored by a special reception by Queen Victoria. 

With preface by Harriet Beecher Stowe; Introductory Notes by 
Wendell Phillips and John G. Whittier, and Appendix on the Negro 
Exodus by Bishop Gilbert Haven. 

Published by B. B. RUSSELL dGO.,57 Cornhill, Boston. 
For Sale by all Booksellers. Price, $1.50. 

The Tone Hasten. 

BY JANE KINGSFORD. 
Three entertaining little volumes, giving in pleasing story form much 
valuable information regarding the lives and works of the great masters, 
Mozart and Mendelssohn, Handel and Haydn, and Bach and Beethoven. 

Published by LEE & SHEPARD. For Sale by all Book- 
sellers. Price, S3. 75 Set 



JP • 






H? RARY OF CONGRF<5<! a 

0020 678 757 






H 









■ 



B 



' * 



K»: 






■ 



■ 

I -4 






■ 



n 

■ 



■ 



